2021 Blacksmith Instructional #25 "Forging a Drift"
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มี.ค. 2021
- In this video we make a "simple" drift to help us in our future tong making effort!
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"Upsetting" is aptly named! IMO, it's one of the hardest of the basic blacksmithing techniques to do well.
Looks good Trenton. Thanks that was a lot of fun. Weird how we enjoy watching the teacher struggle. I guess it just proves that in blacksmithing problems can happen to even the best of us. Great work. Keep it up. 👍👍
LOL that was fun.Building tools is the most rewarding ....and forces one to meet tolerances and such,skill building at its best.Thanks for the video!
Delightful and super useful video.
Also, I appreciated your candidness in expressing your frustration and laughing anyway - a humble reminder that sometimes shit just ain't gonna work the way you want, but you gotta make it work anyway.
Thanks Trent. That helped me. I have signed up for Saturday's class.
The relief when you finished was palpable. Good on ye, Trenton Tye.
A great lesson {if not in precision, certainly in praccticality!] Much obliged. 🤠
That was great, really fun to watch. I guess if tong making is is in my near future I better get to it... :-)
I used a coil spring from a car works grate . :)
Thanks Trent, I gotta make a few of various sizes!
Thank you for another great video
Very informative!
love this thanks
I should be able to put some formulas together to help avoid your 3/8" headache in the future. I'll try to get that done in the next couple days.
Another great one
Okay folks, here is a quick formula to check if you'll have problems upsetting. If the length of your bar is at or longer than L =140sqrt(i), your bar will probably buckle, and you'll will be upset. Prof. Tye called it bending which is practical, but the failure is technically a buckling failure. There are a lot of assumption going into this, so results will vary, but I'm assuming your bar is at 1200F and you are striking perpendicular to the work piece and through the center axis.
The formula for successful upset: L < 140*sqrt(i)
*WARNING* Buckling as a mode of failure is not officially recognized by the 9/11 Conspiracy Idjits Association.
i is the second moment of area of your bar. Round bar will be (pi/4)*r^4, Square bar will be (1/12)*b^4, where b is the base width, and rectangular bar will have directional i's, ibase = (1/12)*b*h^3 and iheight = (1/12)*b^3*h, again b = base length and h = height length.
Based on this, your working length must be less than 4.4 inches for 3/8 round, 5.6 inches for 3/8 square, 7-3/4 inches for 1/2 inch round, and 10.1 inches for 1/2 inch square bar.
Like I said, there are a lot of assumptions in this, so if you are hitting way off center, all bets are off. But, if you limit you glowing hot section to 1/2 the calculated number, your chances of not having any problems is pretty good.
Professor Tye, I can provide the derivation and citations if you need them, but it would be longer than practical for a comment.
@5:00 I figured I'd "drift" off since you continued....
I'm really enjoying the content i have a question about about the difference in hood design for charcoal forges is there a major difference and is on better than the other for the draft that they provide and what are the down side of each im using lump wood charcoal any help would be great thank you
Hi. Curious why you made it a wedge type taper at the working end instead of a regular round taper. I thought maybe you were going to punch a slot then drift it to a round hole, but you punched a round hole. Does the 2 sided wedge taper reduce tendency for the drift to buckle, or maybe just make it easier to drive through?
Depends on what you are looking to do. Slitting creates a larger halo than punching
Do you realize how difficult it was to watch this video while concurrently watching "Assembly Required" Episode 2?