I remember a few years ago you saying tongs were your bane. Good on you for tackling your nemesis, on camera. Different than how I make mine, but as they say, more than one way to skin a cat.
I'm a beginner but I have found that a RR spike is just enough material for one half. I can pick up a bucket full of them in 20 mins when I stop at the tracks on the way to town. They may not be the perfect material but are good for practice.
One of the best tong videos I have seen. My first attempt (rebar) work but they suck. I am taking vacation right after Easter. I have the proper material now, so I just need to get going.. (I work 7 days a week.)
I made some flat jaw tongs last week put some chisel marks in one pear. Then round over the jaws to suit 10 mm round bar on the other pair worked like a charm. Cheers. (:
I like the spacer block idea. A set depth to protect the thickness of your material is a super idea for beginners, and maybe some guys and gals that have been at it a while too. You never kbow when your mind is going to wonder off task, when doing things you've done a thousand times before. Of course the experienced smith can upset the material back in on itself. But why put those extra stresses on the material if you don't have to, right? Great video to show a better way for beginners to make tongs, and get the proportions correct. Nice job, Trent.
Thats why I have a pair of v jaw channel locks from Irwin they're really good at holding everything for me lol but I do sometimes run into a problem with having to change my angle of where my work is and where it needs to be but they're alright I only made one decent set of tongs that were straight out v tongs with a wide slot for rail road spikes that worked well but I couldn't get the concept of setting a rivet by hand in them so I used a bolt and nut and they're in a pile of steel lol
I like the Idea of the spacer bar. Tell me how did you fit the top piece to the bottom piece couldn't see any weld. Also with the punching for the rivet, I have been told and seen on YT that you should start with the nib facing down over the edge of the anvil, so that when you go to punch it out from the other side, it lays flat over the pritchel hole. Just a thought . Good job.
Really hope there's gonna be another class! This was so informative! I am one of those "newbs" who abhors tongs... Because I don't HAVE any! Lol! That being said, I've never considered using a top tool, or hardie tool as a guide. So... Aside from the shank? How do I make the tool exactly? I understand the piece on top needs to be 3/4, but what are the rest of the specs of this tool? Thank you for ALL you do sir! You are a great role model for aspiring smiths!
So two things first why didn't you upset the boss back? (I did really hear you give a measure for the transition from boss to rein. If you did I missed it.) Secondly if 3/4" is to big which I don't believe and 1/2" is too small in your opinion again I agree, what's wrong with 5/8"? Is it because you have the tooling set up to do 3/8"?
Dagnabbit, stopped video at boss, went out and started end with 3/4 square bar... Got it just like yours then you go and cheat on me with power hammer when I was looking forward to seeing some masterful hammer work drawing your reins out... Lol... I'm stuck now to do by hand... ...
I would guess I have seen literally a hundred videos on making tongs, and this is probably one of the best. But what I don't think I have seen is someone make a pair of round nosed tongs. I know they were common in the past, and all the old manuals mention them. Box jaw tongs appear to work just as well for holding round stock as they do square stock. My question is: if box jaw tongs work for round as well as square stock, why did they historically make round jaw tongs at all? I would think that round jaws would hold the size they were specifically made for, plus or minus a sixteenth (and maybe even less). I think box jaws would hold a little larger range . I have never seen anyone give a reason why they made round jaw tongs when box jaw tongs appear to work just as well for holding round stock.
It really bummed me out that you jumped over the grinding. You said you left it on purpose, then didn't show it. It's something i have trouble with, so i was looking forward to seeing the fix. Other than that, I learned a lot.
One of the best tutorials I have seen, you explained a lot of the fine details that others gloss over and for a beginner that is a huge help!
I can't think of a single thing you left out, and I've watched lots of tong-making videos. Very complete. Thank you.
he left out the detail of them being left-handed tongs and he seems to be right handed...
Now that's the most informative tong making video I have ever seen,
Thank You Trent
I remember a few years ago you saying tongs were your bane. Good on you for tackling your nemesis, on camera. Different than how I make mine, but as they say, more than one way to skin a cat.
I'm a beginner but I have found that a RR spike is just enough material for one half. I can pick up a bucket full of them in 20 mins when I stop at the tracks on the way to town. They may not be the perfect material but are good for practice.
Everyone picks them up but if caught you can get in trouble. Best to find a railroad guy and ask.
This is one of the best tutorial I have ever seen thanks
One of the best tong videos I have seen. My first attempt (rebar) work but they suck. I am taking vacation right after Easter. I have the proper material now, so I just need to get going.. (I work 7 days a week.)
I made some flat jaw tongs last week put some chisel marks in one pear.
Then round over the jaws to suit 10 mm round bar on the other pair worked like a charm. Cheers. (:
Thank you for that excellent description and brilliant demonstration of your exceptionally well formed punched and drifted hole. 😕
The class was amazing! I can’t wait for the next one
Great lesson, I like the spacer block. Thanks
Another great video Trenton👍👍👍🇺🇸 Thank you
i like the way you made those, it all made sense, i will try your method. thank you
Trent: I meant to do that
Thanks Trent, great video.
Wow thx best video I have seen to make tongs! Thx
I love the thickness plate trick i will try that. . I’m a beginner and just messed up a tong boss today. Using 5/8 square cuz that is what i have.
Great videos as always
I like the spacer block idea. A set depth to protect the thickness of your material is a super idea for beginners, and maybe some guys and gals that have been at it a while too. You never kbow when your mind is going to wonder off task, when doing things you've done a thousand times before. Of course the experienced smith can upset the material back in on itself. But why put those extra stresses on the material if you don't have to, right? Great video to show a better way for beginners to make tongs, and get the proportions correct. Nice job, Trent.
Thats why I have a pair of v jaw channel locks from Irwin they're really good at holding everything for me lol but I do sometimes run into a problem with having to change my angle of where my work is and where it needs to be but they're alright I only made one decent set of tongs that were straight out v tongs with a wide slot for rail road spikes that worked well but I couldn't get the concept of setting a rivet by hand in them so I used a bolt and nut and they're in a pile of steel lol
I like the Idea of the spacer bar. Tell me how did you fit the top piece to the bottom piece couldn't see any weld. Also with the punching for the rivet, I have been told and seen on YT that you should start with the nib facing down over the edge of the anvil, so that when you go to punch it out from the other side, it lays flat over the pritchel hole. Just a thought . Good job.
You surely can do that but it was a bad camera angle for filming!
@@purgatoryironworks Yeah I get it. Filming can get a bit confusing when try to forge and explain things. Good on ya Trenton.
Hi buddy awesome job
Really hope there's gonna be another class! This was so informative! I am one of those "newbs" who abhors tongs... Because I don't HAVE any! Lol! That being said, I've never considered using a top tool, or hardie tool as a guide. So... Aside from the shank? How do I make the tool exactly? I understand the piece on top needs to be 3/4, but what are the rest of the specs of this tool? Thank you for ALL you do sir! You are a great role model for aspiring smiths!
What is your opinion of farrier's tongs? They seem to be used the same way as flat jaw tongs but farriers swear by them.
Are you making horseshoes? If not, They suuuuuuucccckkkk
@@purgatoryironworks why do they suck?
Small, Medium and OMG! lol
So two things first why didn't you upset the boss back? (I did really hear you give a measure for the transition from boss to rein. If you did I missed it.)
Secondly if 3/4" is to big which I don't believe and 1/2" is too small in your opinion again I agree, what's wrong with 5/8"? Is it because you have the tooling set up to do 3/8"?
Dagnabbit, stopped video at boss, went out and started end with 3/4 square bar... Got it just like yours then you go and cheat on me with power hammer when I was looking forward to seeing some masterful hammer work drawing your reins out... Lol... I'm stuck now to do by hand... ...
I would guess I have seen literally a hundred videos on making tongs, and this is probably one of the best. But what I don't think I have seen is someone make a pair of round nosed tongs. I know they were common in the past, and all the old manuals mention them. Box jaw tongs appear to work just as well for holding round stock as they do square stock. My question is: if box jaw tongs work for round as well as square stock, why did they historically make round jaw tongs at all? I would think that round jaws would hold the size they were specifically made for, plus or minus a sixteenth (and maybe even less). I think box jaws would hold a little larger range . I have never seen anyone give a reason why they made round jaw tongs when box jaw tongs appear to work just as well for holding round stock.
It really bummed me out that you jumped over the grinding. You said you left it on purpose, then didn't show it. It's something i have trouble with, so i was looking forward to seeing the fix. Other than that, I learned a lot.
What’s your opinion on beeswax and graphite “punch lube”?
Punch lube is a real thing and it does help but its really only called for in large punching.
@@purgatoryironworks thank you. So will it help with the cooling of the punch as opposed to water or is water the best bet?