Understand and stop warping on FDM 3d printers such as Ender or Prusa
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ย. 2024
- I watched a bunch of videos on warping when I was first starting out with my Ender 3 and had warping issues, I still felt the topic could be addressed quicker and easier and I hope I've done that here for you!
I felt attacked when he covered the want for heating up the bed’s temperature to reduce warping 😂 in my case it was a mix of bed leveling and leaving the room’s window open through night prints. Great video!
finally in layman's language for new to 3D printing people like me😂. All confusions were solved. thanks
Yes this is a good video one thing that helped me alot was learning to study the plastic... and not just the type but the batch... I have some PLAs that are15 to 20 degrees apart from each other in print quality but I agree that most of my curling issues have always come down to a level bed. Get that first layer right and your golden.
Way too good of a video ngl. Still helped my dumbass even today. Gonna help someone else down the line
right 👍 🤣
I've been at a loss for 3 months with my glass bed. Tried tape, glue, leveling multiple times. After watching your video and copying your settings in Cura, I gave it another shot, except this time, I spent double the time I normally would calibrate the bed. I switched it to a more study surface than the particle board coffee table it was on. Haven't had this flawless print since I got my ender 3. Take my sub!
I'm trying to find my solutions currently wish me luck lol
Wow. Thank you so much for the insight regarding the bottom layers being warm. I've literally spent a whole roll of filament trial and erroring different things.
Also, one VERY IMPORTANT key to making sure your prints stay flat like a pancake and not wavy like a potato chip is to keep your print surface ABSURDLY CLEAN. Buy acetone or another strong solvent from your local hardware store. First step is to wash your removable build plate with dish soap and warm water to remove any water soluble adhesive like glue stick. Then after that's done initially pour a mixture of acetone and water into a container large enough to fit the build plate and let it soak for 15 minutes to an hour to dissolve any oils, residue, filament or non water soluble adhesives. Now remove the build plate from the mixture while being careful not to touch the surface and dab the bulk of the fluid off the plate with a lint free rag. Install the build plate on the printer and set the surface temp to 50c and wait for it to fully dry. After drying is complete, use a new lint free rag to wipe down the surface with pure acetone a few times. Your surface should now be 100% free of all residue and skin oils that would otherwise prevent consistent adhesion. You should then be able to print without the use of adhesives for PLA even without a perfectly level bed.
Thank you, I was looking for this. I have small holes on my build plate and I'm trying to fix them.
I appreciate that your answers go into some depth. Such that. Individuals are now armed with information as well as some potential fixes. The key here is the information
I have spent the last 2 days figuring out what to do and I almost gave up on 3d printing because I have wasted so much filament on failed prints. I will try everything you recommended. Thank you so much.
Thanks for this!
Just got an Ender 3 and ever since switching to a glass bed I've had warping issues every once in a while. I also did the thing where I thought warming the bed hotter was better instinctively. Lol.
What I do when printing my minis:
1. good bed leveling
2. hairspray for adhesion
3. bed heated to 60C
4. print with brim.
I print on glass with a 1:7 PVA:Water mix painted over & dried on the bed.
the brim always warps and pulls everything up :(
@@ferdblu1946 try blue painters tape + some glue stick👍🏽
I always use a raft, brims just don't work for me, then I'm not printing mini's
what does Print with Brim mean?
Hey there! Just wanted to drop a quick note to say a huge THANK YOU to the creator of this video! Your tips on 3D printing were an absolute game-changer for me. I've been struggling with some issues, but your insights really helped me troubleshoot and improve my prints. Keep up the awesome work, and looking forward to more helpful content from you in the future! Cheers
Thank you for this amazing video , warping issues were instantly reduced after watching it.
this channel really deserve the name of 3DPrinting PRO. The guy knows what he is talking about!
First off your voice is sick lol. Sounds like a Mafia boss educating me on 3d printing.
All of my prints happen on the same side, front right but they only happen when supports are printed.
Spent the eintire weekend on this trying figure it out.
You explained it in under ten minutes.. video just popped up in my feed. 🙏🙏🙏🙏
Just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to make this video and help us all out!
I had 2 prints start dragging around from my edges warping. I went back to auto home, moved my X and Y axis around and found out my bed was out of level in the back. Readjusted it, and ran the same print. Been going now for 5 hours, no warping!!!! (Creality CR10V2)
Thank you
Brand new to this and am getting warping like crazy. To fix I turned my bed temp up to 70 then 75 then 80. LOL! This is just what I needed. Going to try these setting now. Thanks from a new subscriber.
this video and the settings you had for speed save my life on prints on my sunlu s8 (which is in my room) def was the bed levling and the ac killing it! the setting got my print looking better as well top notch man thanks alot!
Thank you man. I've been having prints pull up non stop while printing large prints. You helped alot
Best advice I see in TH-cam. Warping has little to do with adhesion. It is to do with material shrinking. Best way to avoid failed printing is to use raft.
I use a raft and I still get a lil warping...so I'm thinking of boxing mine off to cut down on cross breezes I'm going to go to dollar tree and get a few foam poster boards and just wall it off with that to block the cross breezes
Thanks Greg! Very excited to see you doing FTM videos now. I haven't used my Ender 3 in months, largely because of never-ending bed adhesion issues (clogged nozzle that I haven't fixed doesn't help much either). I had actually kind of figured out some of what you're saying, but hearing it from you emboldens me to get my Ender 3 running again.
go for it man the ender can pump out some amazing stuff once you're up and running properly!
I found that for me, 190 for PLA worked well. I reprinted the same thing at 200, and I did get corner lifting in the back.
My hero! I'm yours for the taking 😍 It's so weird how sudden these commonsensical setbacks smack ya dead center on the forehead, as soon as, a wee bit of knowledge enters the noodle from the prospective of someone else who took that leap towards, stepping back for a second, to approach the problem from another angle. Seriously, thanks a billion! Saved my ass and a bunch of filament!
I came here looking for something else, and found value in what I didn't know I was looking for.
You also could be sure the part cooling fan is on during the first layer, this will help cool down the layer before any new layers. You also didn't mention that the filement can be the issue. I have printed a 6x6 control box now 4 times. The front edge tents to warp slightly with one brand PLA and perfectly flat with another.
oh yes!! the filament can be a pain in the ass. I had a filament that i just pressed print and all good, now I suck ass with warping and all the fun things that come with that... :(
I have had problems with warping one side and have decided to try the print again with a much lower bed temperature I am also using a spray on plate adhesive which is pretty good fingersw crossed will report back. Good video Thanks for the pointers.
I have the same problem tho but only for large prints and I would say its because of the ender 3s removable build plate. If the print is confined to the centre region it sticks perfectly (ABS), however the further out towards the edges the more it begins to lift off the plate. I would say - the middle of the plate is warped upwards from removing 3d prints etc and the edges (being clamped down) are perfectly flush. However my nozzle is incredibly close to the bed at times. The center is so well stuck down its almost impossible to remove the residual left over filament from the skirt
Thanks, That helped. It's probably my aircon. I'm not turning it off but at least I know. I will definitely try the slower initial layers too.
Excellent explanation and tips on this video. Thank you! Now, back to struggling with my nylons...
This should of been the first one I watched.
I subscribe to very few channels but this one gets it. I have my printer sitting next to a radiator and it warps on the opposite side which makes so much sense from what youre saying. Great content 👌
Awesome! I tried releveling my bed, turning up the heat. Didn’t think to slow it down. Thanks!
Thank you so much... I'm new at this, that was exactly what was happening to me the lifting and warping. I re-leveled my bed and its working great now!
Thank you for the video. I have several prints warping on the far right side and it is consistant. Im gonna go back and check the bed level. Im gonna bet my right front side is lower than the rest of the bed. I had even tried adjusting the temps with no luck. When you mentioned you had raised your temps it struck me that i was thinking the wrong way!
Thanks for the advice. I have not tested the lower bed temperature and slower printing yet but this tips are different from most stuf and sounded logic. I will try them definetly.
But you did not went in to details about different materials. Because I only get warping with IR-PETG. With IR-PLA everything is fine...
EDIT: Tried it with lower bed temp and more cooling on first layer. Got it from 4 corners warping to just 1 waroping. A brim helped,too. THANK YOu for the video and advice.
Best concise explanation, exactly what I needed
Thanks! I may have to move my printer to another spot or get an enclosure for it. Appreciate comparing your own mistakes (which was what i did as well!) and letting us know how to correct what we're doing wrong. Sounds like i need a glass bed as well. Good short vid and very informative!
I had my bed at 105 because nothing was sticking and now everything comes out warped. I'm using PETG. Thank you for the helpful advice.
Thank you! Now i am alot more confident.. i am going to check all the screws and wheels etc. Check bed level, air flow.. but the other tips you said make perfect sense.. on one print the head doesnt squish the first layer. But another successful print it was perfect.. kinda leads me to either put a footing or raft under it. Anything i add a raft to has come out flawless...
feel like an easy way to see second part is that warm print is malleable / bendable. when print cools, it contracts. warm bed keeps bottom bendy, cool draft shrinks top of print.
I was using adhesive on a glass bed and over time the print would come off. It was like the heat made the adhesive dry up . I still had the same settings at 60 degrees bed and 210-220 pla
Lots of great tips. I was one of those cranking up my bed temp. Going to try setting it lower, printing slower, and getting my nozzle a tad closer.
Thank you for the easy to understand video.
I’m having the same issue. What bed temp worked for you? I had mine at 70.
@@ahassan3557 I've settled at 60 for PLA and have found that leveling my bed more effectively was the key. Now I haven't had any issues with not sticking.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. This really helped me understand why i'm seeing warping. I was able to manually slow down my first few layers on the 3d printer and it fixed my issue. I"m knew to this 3d printing so now I have to track down the setting in the software so i don't have to manually manage this. Thanks!
This was incredibly helpful and easy to understand. Thank you! Now off to re-level and lower bed temp!
Thanks for the great video. It was nice to hear some explanation and facts.
I am less than a month into 3d printing but never had an issue with the cheap bed that was on my ender 3. Other than after a lot of prints the 2 parts of the bed began to seperate causing higher spots with air pockets under. I switched to a pei bed and started getting cooling. I did raise bed temp and they did get worse. At really high temps it started to warp less. But thanks for the info I will try it out
Yup that’s my problem! It was close to a window. Thanks for this great video!
Thanks! It's ALWAYS the left side warping for me so now I know I need to re level.
I've been printing the same model on the same settings but lately I've always been getting a raised corner where I didn't before. And now I believe it's the colder temp and the nearby window who are the culprits
Hey mate your VDO solved my ploblem great job
Thank you, it give me more understanding about warping issue on my ender 3v2. Use stock glass bed and decent amount of hairspray.
Your settings worked perfectly for me!
Here’s some constructive feedback, you spend 90% of the video talking about the problem, but then I expected to get some kind of solution at the end, but saying level your bed better, turn down the temp and slow the first few layers could have gotten more time and the problem description a lot less. Not saying that the problem description was useless, it def helped me understand the issue but after the first 2 minutes I understood and then I was seeking the solution and HOW TO DO the solution (which was never really given) but could not find that in the mess of problem description. Hope that helps make next videos more productive.
thanks for the video, nice understanding of it now
A glass bed definitely helps and I noticed that PEI sheets help as well with strong adhesion. Bed leveling is the most important since it makes or breaks your print
@@technotoad2566 I would try increasing the bed temp depending on what type of filament you’re using. For PLA, 55 C works for me with a initial layer temp of 60 C. Worst case, u can use glue stick and alcohol or acetone to remove the printed part from the bed bc it’ll be adhered pretty well. Hope this helps
MIND BLOWN!!!!!! Thank you so much. Going home to try this
I ran a Prusa for about 3 years and used slurry to prevent warping. I use ABS so I could set my temperature quite high, print bed level with the ABS Slurry on the plate and a enclosure bag. I'd also raft the material I was printing. Absolutely no problems.
Recently I just got an Ender V2 and used the above technique now finding I'm back to square one, everything warping. Looks like I might have to give the gluestick a go :/
I hope this does help me with my warping, I hadn't even thought of my window being the issue but sure enough below freezing air was blowing towards my printer if I continue having issues I'll try cooling the bed since I raised it by 5° Celsius, I mean it did work for a while until a stronger draft started. I can't believe I didn't conected the two. For the past few prints I've been just feeling dreaded when I hear the sound of plastic peeling since I've spent 6 hours trying to get a 5 hour print to work.
You totally missed one big thing, you may be right about airflow, but the big white one was on a raft. A raft is what a lot of people are using as an answer to bed leveling. While airflow might be the issue, people are under the impression that their the bed leveling may be off, it might be as simple as airflow. My AC duct pretty much was aimed at the wall my printer was on, and I tried everything, even a raft to fix my "adhesion"issues, and it was airflow all along.
This helped me alot, had warping on one side of my print and found one side was low
don't forget printing at too low a temp can cause it too! I was having issues with warping before I realized the print was at 195 C and not 200 C.
Now do a video with different slicers! Cura, Orac, Creality Print, Bambu etc.. I have no 'Bottom' layers on Orca but I did find my first layer speed at 50 but the number of 'slow' layers at 0, da - I now have a new means to investigate after two days of printing 100X20X3.5mm walls and never getting the ends to equal the center for height (19.92 20 19.34).
subbed...thanks for the tips, I'm excited to get PETG to finally not make nightly pasta
Thanks for the info I’m new and only made 3 prints but my 3rd started warping and my 4th did all around. I used glue stick but still warped. I’m sure it’s from a draft so I’ll make a box for my printer by the way I did turn up my bed when it happened but no longer.
Great info. I really feel like I'm gonna solve this issue now.
Yup. my ac was on And it wrapped to the point it came off the bed. I just started printing and still learning. It's my second print. And yes I did turn the heat up.lol . 👍
I'm also hesitant on using the glue stick on my glass bed... will try it soon.. thanks for your tip...
Have tried everything for my large, thin walled print. Using Prusament, orange PETG. Have not tried lowering the bed temp yet. Right now at like 85-90 degrees. Hoping that does the trick!
Super super nice love it subscribed
It’s funny you said don’t raise the print bed temperature to gain adhesion because it’s counterintuitive😂 cuz that’s exactly what I did too and was scratching my head when it got worse
Glue on glass sticks almost to good.. quick hack.. rubbing alcohol;) great vid.. thank you!!:)
I have set up a barricade of random items in my work room around my printer and have made a sign saying ‘no sudden movements and please close the door while printer on’ on the door. Drafts are my enemy at this point as I’ve spend a looong time on my bed levelling.
I have an Ender 3 Pro with a magnetic mat. I have tried printing the same model with a bed temperature of 70 degrees Celsius and no bed heating at all. The model warped the same, absolutely no difference. Perhaps it works differently on other surfaces.
Thank you for this video!
Great info, and presented clear and concise, thank you!
TL:DR Cold air makes the plastic shrink and to fix that is by having having the correct initial layer height. so squish the first layer down better to fix this problem. have a glass bed helps keep stuff even to imo.
This was incredibly helpful
Thank you
I had mine right next to a window AND in the way of an aircon... I was going nuts trying to figure out why my corners were lifting. My first thought was that my bed was too hot, I thought the corners were melting so I lowered the bed temp lol... never even thought it might be adhesion, even though that would have also been incorrect.
If cooling contracts wouldnt you want to keep the entire print warm, that way the layers bind to eachother and the print can cool at the same time? If each layer is cooling as it goes up it will have terrible adhesion
2:31 yeah I did that, i had the plate from 60⁰ to 80⁰
Thank you this video helped me to make very nice prints!!!
man this is very helpful thanks a lot
Thank you for simplifying this issue
It seems 99.99% of 3D printing issues is down to bed leveling, although I watched a video where a guy was saying that bed leveling isn't what you think it is, and was down to something different than just adjusting the wheels at the bottom of the print, something I had never heard of nor did I understand when he went in to it, and usually I understand most things so far when people talk about 3D printers, I think leveling is extremely important in the universally known sense, bit it's hard to know exactly how close to the bed your nozzle should be, alot of people say slight resistance between the bed and nozzle with a piece of paper, others say some resistance, others say it should move freely, and to me, some and slight are massive differences when it comes to microns, so I usually level to where the extruder makes a noise on the bed (like a vibration sound) then ease it off just enough to stop the sound, and I've had good results with that.
You seem extremely knowledgeable, so my question is this, Does the bed level become loose after a while with use? As it seems to be the case for me every few days to a week, I have to re-level the bed, I'm using an Ender 3 pro with the magnetic mat.
Depending on the quality of your springs it could last months, but yes you need to re-level periodically no matter what :)
GREAT video! What about lowering the bed temperature after the first few layers?
Ayyy that's my photo :D
Really helped me out, thanks mate!
This is very informative. Thank you
My fan was ruining my first layer this while time thank you
I think my bed is warped. Like lower in the middle. I cannot get the paper to stick in the middle with out making it too tight in the corners. Though i never got warping this strong on the ender 5 before.I did move the printer to an other room and there was a draft. It did warp in the corner that was probably too close.
I have been having some adhesion problems, i been expecting it was Temperature related. I do print at hotbed 60C, its working well, but when ever i see big temperature changes i see the print slowly fail. planning to design, build and maintain an enclusure, so i can controll temperature to a T as much as possible. the Enclosure im planning to have one or more Arduinos, maintaining reading around the enclosure to ensure temperature stays constant turning on fans and what not when required, and preferably also air tight, as i may move to different materials later down, so i can also maintain the potentially dangerous fumes to the enclosure.
What I learned form this video is, 3D printers are like computers in the early 80's/late 70's not ready for consumer use as the BS factor is so high. I'm sure all these are valid points, but if you are just some average joe looking to print some baby yoda's you can forget about it.
I have good large prints but say I print a small cylinder it cups up from all around at like 5 layers in
Thanks this really helped!!
Great explanation and points. Does humidity also have an effect here?
AC vent for me! Hairspray helps with adhesion.
ok, so lay it hotter(to get the initial adhesion) and then knock it down a few degrees after a good 1st or 2nd layer..?
Thank yoouuu for this sir!!!
I don't know if my base plate is warped because when I go and do the paper level thing all the corners will be good but then it will scrape in the middle of the plate.
Thank you for this video