In most cases a blocked DPF it's more of a symptom of other stuff not working properly: coolant thermostat, outside temp sensor, glow plugs, fuel vaporiser (if it's got one), sticky egr valve, sticky throttle body flaps, etc Sure it can also be the case the owner only does very short journeys so car will rarely be at operating temp but I reckon that's not the majority of the cases.
Useful video thank you. I have just bought a 2009 530d msport, doctor had it for 13 years previously. Only has 92k on it and it’s been really well looked after..aside from the particle filter/regen message on the dash. This is the likely solution then as it may have been doing low mileage/per year?
Removing the internals or any evidence of tampering with the DPF will result in a fail by any reputable MOT tester and these rules have been in place since 2014
@@nemz7505 No it’s not that strict. You know the law. But I have taken it to random MOT stations with no issue or mention. It’s been professionally welded you can not even tell.
@@nemz7505 mot testers can't legally remove panels or things to get a visual and if the dpf is welded the right side you cannot see it, it also pasts the exhaust tests without problem.
I don't have a portable compressor so I use one of the those pressurised garden spray tanks which you can get from wilco. The plastic pipe it comes with fits perfectly in the dpf pressure pipe.
There is a lot of talk about Ash in the DPF and I can give you my view and what I have found. Ash accumulates in the DPF over extended use, as the incombustible material left behind following filter regeneration and soot oxidation. The ash consists of various metallic compounds originating from lubricant additives, trace elements in the fuel, and engine wear and corrosion products. The above statement is correct for what is called Final Ash. After the contamination has been burnt up this is what is left behind during the normal operation of the DPF. Cutting open a DPF reveals a super hard coal type of solid at the back. It is a combination of what has previously burnt and is very hard almost unbreakable. You can see that it has been exposed to very high temperatures and can withstand any amount of heat. Taking the DPF off and washing it through will do nothing to it. Some argue that the very biggest pressure DPF cleaners may remove some as it forces through the perforations and knocks some out. But, generally it will not be dislodged. This builds up very slowly. Final Ash can be at the back of the DPF taking up some room but the DPF is still serviceable and works fine. If the DPF has been re-generated many times, often by forced regeneration, this causes more Final Ash to build. Most Silicon-Carbide DPF's have a serviceable life of around 250,000 miles. At that point, you may have a DPF that is nearly half filled with Final Ash and then it is un-serviceable. This is rare, because of the amount of mileage needed to build this much up. This is not to be confused with loose ash formation, which is an ash created by the burn procedure. For instance, the wrong oil is used, which is not low SAPS (Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous and Sulphur.) During the burn process, oil is dragged up from the sump, burns in the cylinder and Sulphated Ash is formed. This fills a DPF very quickly, is not hard like Final Ash and can be removed, once the incorrect oil is changed or the problem fixed.
@@cristianiordache365yes it does... Did it 4 days ago on my 2006 e60, that had 24 mbar of back pressure and was regening every 60 miles. Afterwards back pressure of 2 mbar at idle. Happy days
In most cases a blocked DPF it's more of a symptom of other stuff not working properly: coolant thermostat, outside temp sensor, glow plugs, fuel vaporiser (if it's got one), sticky egr valve, sticky throttle body flaps, etc
Sure it can also be the case the owner only does very short journeys so car will rarely be at operating temp but I reckon that's not the majority of the cases.
I have tested and it's no more than 70-80 mbar , thanks for the video 🫶
Useful video thank you. I have just bought a 2009 530d msport, doctor had it for 13 years previously. Only has 92k on it and it’s been really well looked after..aside from the particle filter/regen message on the dash. This is the likely solution then as it may have been doing low mileage/per year?
I had the dpf opened, took out and then re-welded shut back in the day on my e60.
Can I ask the cost and MOT results if you've had one? Thanks.
@@gigapig23 MOT pass ever since no problem as diesels are smoke tested.
Removing the internals or any evidence of tampering with the DPF will result in a fail by any reputable MOT tester and these rules have been in place since 2014
@@nemz7505 No it’s not that strict. You know the law. But I have taken it to random MOT stations with no issue or mention. It’s been professionally welded you can not even tell.
@@nemz7505 mot testers can't legally remove panels or things to get a visual and if the dpf is welded the right side you cannot see it, it also pasts the exhaust tests without problem.
I have a 2006 pre lci e60 where the dpf is located under the car, do i put the cleaner in from the sensor point just above the dpf?
Nice 💪......what tester are you using for checking the error codes ??
Launch Euro Tab 3 from www.launchtech.co.uk
@@ORileysAutosI have a delphi 150 , it seems ok , but now i have ordered ISTA
Where did you get the cone adapter to fit in the pipe?
I may be wrong, but it looks like hose / cone adapter from the JLM dpf gun that Jimmy used a while back.
@@andymacmillan yes I used the hose from an old JLM bottle before giving it away.
I don't have a portable compressor so I use one of the those pressurised garden spray tanks which you can get from wilco. The plastic pipe it comes with fits perfectly in the dpf pressure pipe.
Thanks hopefully can get it separate
@@gigapig23 did this work?
Still waiting for a reply from Launch if the fluid removes ash deposits. Does anyone know? Thank you.
There is a lot of talk about Ash in the DPF and I can give you my view and what I have found.
Ash accumulates in the DPF over extended use, as the incombustible material left behind following filter regeneration and soot oxidation. The ash consists of various metallic compounds originating from lubricant additives, trace elements in the fuel, and engine wear and corrosion products.
The above statement is correct for what is called Final Ash. After the contamination has been burnt up this is what is left behind during the normal operation of the DPF. Cutting open a DPF reveals a super hard coal type of solid at the back. It is a combination of what has previously burnt and is very hard almost unbreakable. You can see that it has been exposed to very high temperatures and can withstand any amount of heat. Taking the DPF off and washing it through will do nothing to it. Some argue that the very biggest pressure DPF cleaners may remove some as it forces through the perforations and knocks some out. But, generally it will not be dislodged.
This builds up very slowly. Final Ash can be at the back of the DPF taking up some room but the DPF is still serviceable and works fine. If the DPF has been re-generated many times, often by forced regeneration, this causes more Final Ash to build. Most Silicon-Carbide DPF's have a serviceable life of around 250,000 miles. At that point, you may have a DPF that is nearly half filled with Final Ash and then it is un-serviceable. This is rare, because of the amount of mileage needed to build this much up.
This is not to be confused with loose ash formation, which is an ash created by the burn procedure. For instance, the wrong oil is used, which is not low SAPS (Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous and Sulphur.) During the burn process, oil is dragged up from the sump, burns in the cylinder and Sulphated Ash is formed. This fills a DPF very quickly, is not hard like Final Ash and can be removed, once the incorrect oil is changed or the problem fixed.
@@ORileysAutos hydrochloric acid in a concentration of 6-8% can eliminate the ash, but you must fill the DPF and leave it soak for a few hours.
@@cristianiordache365yes it does... Did it 4 days ago on my 2006 e60, that had 24 mbar of back pressure and was regening every 60 miles. Afterwards back pressure of 2 mbar at idle. Happy days
Gold plated info here.
@@TheTheaterdreamer was it a removal job? That's the part that scares me, access and seized bolts. 😬
I spray fluid in cold dpf. Bmw order over diag scanner run regeneration,and drive. I learn that. In Bosch.