As one who in my 65 years started off fixing and remodeling with my dad at 8 years old, and have flipped 30+ houses, gutted and rebuilt an 18th century farmhouse, have built two houses from the ground up and have done what feels like an infinite amount of framing, plumbing, electrical, cement and block work, finish carpentry and cabinets.... this is the best video on the best channel on the subject. Just simply fantastic.
I didn’t even watch upto 1 minute before giving a thumb up. I’m a DIYer and currently working on my stairs when I found this video. Thank you so much for the guide.
I have been wet setting newels for about 30 years. I believe I used PL400 back then.Framing integrety has frequently been a problem and I have never been shy about making it right and back charging the builder. Greetings again from the 77 year old one eyed carpenter!
@@zephyr1408 you both just made me feel good about starting carpentry at 41, now 43. Used to work in advertising. Pay isn’t near what I used to make (I expect to make more as I gain experience) but the job is so much more rewarding.
@@universalmonster4972 hey that is great! P/u Gary Katz Books on hanging doors (keeps you away from bad habits) and finish carpentry ! Both are fairly cheap ! Watch his channel “TIS (this is carpentry) . All of Spencer’s stuff (the man is a perfect machine). And try and purchase good tools no junk! Buy once, cry once is the saying! Develop OCD w/all your carpentry! I build cabinets , large reception type desk for commercial areas, hang doors, remove walls (make sure you learn to build your corners for sheet rockers behind you). Start early I get up at 4:30 am and quit about 3pm. (If you can) and as soon as you can get a contractor license and go out on your own!!!!! ASAP! I am in Calif (Northern where we work and farm) it’s very tough to get a license but you can do it! One last thing ! Stay slim, eat good, supplements, & for me a deep faith in Christ! My Rock, my everything!
@@zephyr1408 thanks for the tips! I know about Gary Katz and I’ve been looking at getting a few books so I’ll go with your recommendations. I’ve been soaking up as much knowledge as I can, this channel and other have been enormously helpful. Essential Craftsman is another one of my favorites. There’s so many out there, it’s interesting to see how different people have their ways of approaching projects.
@@universalmonster4972 you will do great and have a great career! I am actually a retired Homicide Detective believe it or not w/a teaching credential ? Supposed to retire and teach ?? Could hv made good money; they say?? Instead I followed my Dad’s path and found It cathartic, I had a natural ability to solve problems and 13 yrs later I am still here? Still strong and bendable? Oh yeah broke a few things? Anyway I am rambling! Have a great one God Bless!
Hi Spencer, In a past life I was a Director of Engineering for Honeywell. We developed Honeywell Life Safety devices for the industrial market, and many of our devices used portable Lithium Ion battery packs. Because these devices were often used in hazardous gas environments, I had my engineers test batteries in a multitude of ways, and one of them was a drop test. What we discovered will shock you! If given a sharp blow, especially on the edge, a lithium ion battery pack 'will' go into thermal runaway. After much testing we determined that thermal runaway is caused by the thin dielectric plates in a lithium ion battery. These thin plates can deform if struck on the edge, and if two plates touch then excessive current is released, which in turn causes temperatures as high as 1500 degrees F as measured in the lab. The elevates temperatures causes the remaining dielectric plates to melt, and then causes a cascading effect the dreaded thermal runaway. Additionally, a very hazardous gas is released when a thermal runaway occurs. Much has been written about this topic so a Google search will reveal more if needed. However, the principle take away is not to drop your power tool batteries as this may be detrimental to your health. I noticed you using your battery to pop the newel post caps off, but just a friendly suggestion to use a different and more inert object to knock those puppies off..... Your voice is incredibly important to young carpenters and we wouldn't want it silenced in any way. ;-)
Fair play Spencer, thanks again for taking the time to share the wealth of knowledge. Your channel is the best for guys working in the trade, really appreciate how you explain everything and the little tips are great
You are doing amazing things man. Keep bringing us these stair builds. I’m a flooring contractor that also installs treads and risers but I’m handcuffed because I don’t have the finish carpentry experience to do everything myself. But these really help understanding the concepts that go into it. Thank you
PL premium was a game changer for stairs when it came out love the way it expands just enough to make it solid use it under my treads as well no squeaking… thanks for sharing and I understand about its nice to get on a small job every now and then.
I wish I could figure out how to get my helper to have an interest in videos like yours. It's difficult to train these young guys when all they really want to do is be on their phones and watch Tik-Tok and live their lives with other frivolous pursuits. You seem like a steady and regular guy. I appreciate all your efforts. Thank you for your efforts.
Just built 3 steps to a landing with box newel post and railing, following your design tips. Stairs came out great and newel rock solid. Thanks for your great videos!
Perfect timing on this. I’ve got a stair rail install coming up and wanted to brush up. Thanks so much for the great video. Really appreciate all the info you put out.
I'm a big believer in using "story poles. I use them for cabinets, wainscotting, horizontal trims, picket layout, etc etc,,, I was taught their value when I learned to "side wall" shingled houses back in the dark ages. When I'm installing stairs and rails I create one for all the intersections at the newels. In the case of this video there are four "profiles" (the usual amount required) from what I could tell and they could each occupy a side of 2X square stock. There are some cases where the pole can't lay against the part that you are measuring. In that case I use my sliding square a cross the line to bridge the gap between the pole and the piece. This is accomplished one handed. I use different color sharpies when particular dimensions need to stand out and try and use straight grained, light colored knot free stock. Since wood "doesn't shrink" parallel to the grain story poles are accurate over time. Another nice feature about a story pole is that you can tape a couple torpedo levels to adjacent sides for instant reference to plumb, if your OCD nature demands . This probably doesn't matter to a 1/4" carpenter but it's very helpful to someone striving to get in "dead on". Story poles eliminate so many common measuring mistakes, take memory out of the equation, provide deadly accurate repeatable elevation, work perfectly with lazer levels, allow for varying center dimensions, and can be made up in less that ten minutes,,, if you are doing production work, taking them from house to house in a track,, they will save you money, time and mistakes,,, After a job is over, I often take them back to the shop and save for re-use, as a reference or as as-build's. The more a carpenter keeps that tape measure in the bags, out of the work flow and lays out by direct measure the fewer mistakes will be made. In the long run fewer mistakes always translates into a better reputation, more work at a higher rate, and more time off for golf, fishing or motorcycle riding as the case may be.
Nice job. The only thing I have against that PL is if the steps and box jewels have been pre- finished. I notice it does penetrate the wood . it sits on the finish pieces. I no what you're thinking. Who refinished the protect before but the company I worked for did. I ended up doweling my post in to the flooring to achieve a strong joint. It was a bit longer but it was the only way I could come up with doing it. If you can make a comment or another way. I would appreciate it. By the way the dowels I used were glue in with carpenter glue into newel and the sub floor. It made a very strong application but time consuming getting everything to line up. Thanks for you videos. As I've been doing this for 40 +yrs.but there is always another way of doing it. .
@@robertsabella7298 maybe for prefinished wood you mask off with tape before setting? How deep of a stain have you noticed? Maybe you can roll on a sanding sealer to the unfinished end grain before doing the final set, that sealer dries pretty quickly.
Nice work, in Pacific Northwest the majority of trim is prefinish, even paint grade, techniques are the same except everything is cut through green tape to avoid blowout, been at it for decades always work alone, nice to see a kid with skills. You the man.
Excellent jobsite instruction. Your explanation of the necessity of seeing the whole process while doing each "step" (pun intended) is dead on. I never thought to use a $100+ battery for a ram. My go to choice is a Stanley flat bar. Its always in my tool tote with the cats paw. I keep the close at hand for use as I reverse engineer the framing! Keep up the good work.
spencer this video was great. i thought i was the only one who knocks his stuff down the stairs(?) i guess not. PL premium is the best.... my fingertips are often black. (if youve used it, you know what im talking about). keep up on the videos, i love em.
This answered a lot for me, however it also left me with more questions - Like it was mentioned to think 10 steps ahead but didn't explain how or what pieces to consider and make adjustments for like the following: Does position differ for enclosed treads vs open? Do you consider and make adjustments for paneling thickness on the stair wall? How do you plan for your balusters? What is the end result going to look like?
As always, I learn more and more ways to be better about all things in my carpentry arsenal through your tips, tricks, and knowledge. Great video Spencer!
Good job. I am trying to figure out how to attach a newel post on some open stairs that don't have knee walls like this. And metal stud framing underneath so no good solid wood to attach the post to.
I've done quite a bit of exterior vinyl/aluminum hand rails over the last 20 years. I think of the top corner newel as the kingpin, everything is based off of it. Once 1 side is done from top to bottom, a level can be run across to set height on the adjacent side. The worst thing is when the upper posts are not far enough outboard of the face (typically miscalculated in framing) , resulting in double posts at the top. So it's corner post then a short straight run, and the transition happens on the second post. This often happens after a thick material has been applied to the face, brick especially can move the nosing out 3 inches past the framing. Excellent knowledge as always, thanks Spencer!
I am redoing my stair case right now from closed to open stair case with newel post and rails. I really learned from your video. I have a 2 step landing. Could you do a video showing how to do the landing post.
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge and skills I always learn something from you. I wish I could work as an apprentice under you.keep the videos coming. Thanks again
About to tackle my first Stair job.. thank you for sharing your many tricks and explaining everything so well, hopefully it goes as easy as you make it seem!! Lol! Thanks again!
Love this chanel. You are by far the best trim guy on TH-cam. I'm just curious, when you trim an entire house does the builder do the take-off for all trim material, or are you involved with the process?
I know the homes you are working on are forever homes, but I still feel bad for the guy that comes in after you to repair or replace anything lol. "Well m'am, I know you just wanted that piece replaced your dog chewed up but I have to remove the entire subfloor to get the trim board out as they are glued together." Keep up the amazing work Spencer. Wish there was more of a market for this around me but it seems everyone is just passing through and dosn't want anything near this quality.
Being involved in remodeling, I've had similar thoughts. Then I just put my spec builder mind back in gear and appreciate the attempt to produce a 75 year, or more, result.
I do mine very similar with my custom posts. Except , I leave post baseboard off , use 8 “ lag bolts counter set in on angle into floor, then apply baseboards over top with brads.
Always good content in your videos. I learn something every time I watch. I have a few stair jobs coming up and was looking for some pointers and tricks. Thanks for the video.
Unfortunately, my English is poor. I really like your videos. I get a lot of useful information from you. I'm an old European carpenter. A lot of different things are made here. I always marvel at the materials you work with. Greetings to you. Is the machine rolling ??
Thanks for all the great info you put out there Spencer. I would be happy to apprentice under your guidance. I'm 65, and have always enjoyed a carpentry challenge. When can I start?
Great video and explanation but I do have a question as far as local code goes. Here in AZ we have to get the railing past the bottom riser along with passing the top riser at landing or second floor. Generally that means solid newel posts are able to be simply lagged into the curb and flush plugged. When it comes to box newels I generally make a fillet block that I railbolt to the floor, plumb the filler block to then slide the post over and screw directly to that. Also including a bunch of contractors adhesive ha
Great tutorial. For closed stringers. Personally I prefer the open stringer vs the closed stringers. Which would require a different installation method. 👍
Awesome video -- as a fan of overkill I'd probably have mechanically fastened those into the framing somehow along with the adhesive but those are going to be rock solid either way with all that PL. Did a few posts in my house and used lags and glue... Tarzan could swing on them so I'm not worried about my kids yanking on them.
@@InsiderCarpentry that’s possibly the most common application. I like to hear about what true carpenters do in certain cases. Love the channel and your outlook on the trade. Very informative. Thanks for the insight. Joel
These videos are great. I'm an owner/builder and it doesn't look like my framer has done the framing correctly in preparation for drywall than finish stairs. Are there any videos that show the steps prior to this one on how to do the preparation? The process in this video only works if everything prior is do right. Thanks.
I have a problem with the framers a lot. I set my post almost identical to what you do. But the bottom post once set and cured. Moves side to side a little. Not because I set it bad. No, you can see the entire wall move with the post lol I fixed that by adding screws through the stairs in to the post to help lock the wall in a little better
I’ve done that and am constantly remodeling the top of the rake walls to actually match the pitch of the treads. I’m becoming convinced there are zero craftsmen on 90% of framing crews these days.
Amazing tutorial. You've become an excellent trade educator. BTW, using batteries as an "oomph vector" may damage them. In worst case scenario they may even explode.
Are you going to post the entire stair build? I have a stairs coming up that's exactly like that. I'm a finish carpenter myself but always looking for tips on things to better myself.
Excellent content! I enjoy your approach and the 'wet' method looks sturdy for sure. I'm gonna admit... I hate doing stairs and newel posts always have so much force in many directions which lend to loose posts over the years. That said, I'm sure this locks it all in tightly and is bound to last well. Your stair tip which made me chuckle was to 'think 10 steps ahead'... kept waiting for a rimshot on that one. lol. Thanks for sharing.
Spencer, thank you for your videos. my parents are trimming out new house and need to know if box newel posts should go on top of hard wood or before hardwood. Prefinished hardwood starts soon...very soon. they have 4 on a catwalk two on the stairs. they said stair post are after wood treads. Appreciate assistance!
This is my first time watching one of Spencer's videos. Thought I'd give some audience feedback here. I've been doing staircase renovations for 15 years. Almost every job is over existing flooring, whether hardwood, ceramic or carpet. In my early days I ran crews but got tired of baby-sitting and now I work alone. When I ran crews I outlawed PL on my jobsites. I had 2 situations very early on where PL got on the bottom of an installers shoe and was transfered around the floor. I learned that PL eats urethane and destroys carpet. Even after releasing the trigger it still oozes in places where you may not realize so you might accidentally step in it. There is one specialty solvent for it, that isn't easy to find, and it must be applied within 12 hours or it will permanently damage urethane. If you are going to use PL, do yourself a favour and use it before the flooring goes down or be very very careful with it. Regardless, if I had the choice, I would put the post in first. I should mention that I have only worked with solid posts. I would probably use PL if I were doing box posts but take extreme precautions if I'm on existing flooring. Also, research where to get the solvent before you start, just in case.
Just did a little research. In case anyone is interested, it seems Magic Eraser takes Pl Premium film off prefinished hardwood flooring. This would make me a little more confident using PL.
Given that code says 34-38" on the rake, and these will be covered in carpet...I just usually go 36" and call it a day. On the rake I feel that 36" or less is most comfortable. So going 36 off the framing is usually what I like personally.
I’m getting ready to redo my stairs and railings. I’m in California it’s required that newel post be able to withstand 200 lbs in any direction. Will your wet setting meet this requirement? As this would be a much easier and less time consuming install.
As one who in my 65 years started off fixing and remodeling with my dad at 8 years old, and have flipped 30+ houses, gutted and rebuilt an 18th century farmhouse, have built two houses from the ground up and have done what feels like an infinite amount of framing, plumbing, electrical, cement and block work, finish carpentry and cabinets.... this is the best video on the best channel on the subject. Just simply fantastic.
I didn’t even watch upto 1 minute before giving a thumb up. I’m a DIYer and currently working on my stairs when I found this video. Thank you so much for the guide.
I have been wet setting newels for about 30 years. I believe I used PL400 back then.Framing integrety has frequently been a problem and I have never been shy about making it right and back charging the builder. Greetings again from the 77 year old one eyed carpenter!
That amazing! I am 63 and feel like I am catching a 2nd wind!! I started late I am about 12/13 yrs into my 2nd career as a finish carpenter!
@@zephyr1408 you both just made me feel good about starting carpentry at 41, now 43. Used to work in advertising. Pay isn’t near what I used to make (I expect to make more as I gain experience) but the job is so much more rewarding.
@@universalmonster4972 hey that is great! P/u Gary Katz Books on hanging doors (keeps you away from bad habits) and finish carpentry ! Both are fairly cheap ! Watch his channel “TIS (this is carpentry) .
All of Spencer’s stuff (the man is a perfect machine). And try and purchase good tools no junk! Buy once, cry once is the saying!
Develop OCD w/all your carpentry!
I build cabinets , large reception type desk for commercial areas, hang doors, remove walls (make sure you learn to build your corners for sheet rockers behind you). Start early I get up at 4:30 am and quit about 3pm.
(If you can) and as soon as you can get a contractor license and go out on your own!!!!! ASAP!
I am in Calif (Northern where we work and farm) it’s very tough to get a license but you can do it! One last thing ! Stay slim, eat good, supplements, & for me a deep faith in Christ! My Rock, my everything!
@@zephyr1408 thanks for the tips! I know about Gary Katz and I’ve been looking at getting a few books so I’ll go with your recommendations. I’ve been soaking up as much knowledge as I can, this channel and other have been enormously helpful. Essential Craftsman is another one of my favorites. There’s so many out there, it’s interesting to see how different people have their ways of approaching projects.
@@universalmonster4972 you will do great and have a great career! I am actually a retired Homicide Detective believe it or not w/a teaching credential ? Supposed to retire and teach ??
Could hv made good money; they say??
Instead I followed my Dad’s path and found It cathartic, I had a natural ability to solve problems and 13 yrs later I am still here?
Still strong and bendable? Oh yeah broke a few things?
Anyway I am rambling! Have a great one God Bless!
Hi Spencer, In a past life I was a Director of Engineering for Honeywell. We developed Honeywell Life Safety devices for the industrial market, and many of our devices used portable Lithium Ion battery packs. Because these devices were often used in hazardous gas environments, I had my engineers test batteries in a multitude of ways, and one of them was a drop test. What we discovered will shock you!
If given a sharp blow, especially on the edge, a lithium ion battery pack 'will' go into thermal runaway. After much testing we determined that thermal runaway is caused by the thin dielectric plates in a lithium ion battery. These thin plates can deform if struck on the edge, and if two plates touch then excessive current is released, which in turn causes temperatures as high as 1500 degrees F as measured in the lab. The elevates temperatures causes the remaining dielectric plates to melt, and then causes a cascading effect the dreaded thermal runaway. Additionally, a very hazardous gas is released when a thermal runaway occurs. Much has been written about this topic so a Google search will reveal more if needed.
However, the principle take away is not to drop your power tool batteries as this may be detrimental to your health. I noticed you using your battery to pop the newel post caps off, but just a friendly suggestion to use a different and more inert object to knock those puppies off..... Your voice is incredibly important to young carpenters and we wouldn't want it silenced in any way. ;-)
WOW! Good to know. Thanks!
Spencer is a great carpenter.. I just did a set before watching this video.. That is why I am here.
This channel reinforces my decision to be an electrician 😂. Great work Mr Lewis! Real quality. 🤦🏻♂️
Thanks!
You bet!
I don't think I have watched one of your vids and not learned something Spencer. Thanks!
Fair play Spencer, thanks again for taking the time to share the wealth of knowledge. Your channel is the best for guys working in the trade, really appreciate how you explain everything and the little tips are great
Once he peels off the CGI mask we’ll discover he’s actually 120 years old !
You are doing amazing things man. Keep bringing us these stair builds. I’m a flooring contractor that also installs treads and risers but I’m handcuffed because I don’t have the finish carpentry experience to do everything myself. But these really help understanding the concepts that go into it. Thank you
PL premium was a game changer for stairs when it came out love the way it expands just enough to make it solid use it under my treads as well no squeaking… thanks for sharing and I understand about its nice to get on a small job every now and then.
got a nice feeling seeing you smacking those newel post. knowing dem mo-fo's aint even moving after a half day of setting up. winning!!
I wish I could figure out how to get my helper to have an interest in videos like yours. It's difficult to train these young guys when all they really want to do is be on their phones and watch Tik-Tok and live their lives with other frivolous pursuits. You seem like a steady and regular guy.
I appreciate all your efforts. Thank you for your efforts.
Just built 3 steps to a landing with box newel post and railing, following your design tips. Stairs came out great and newel rock solid. Thanks for your great videos!
Perfect timing on this. I’ve got a stair rail install coming up and wanted to brush up. Thanks so much for the great video. Really appreciate all the info you put out.
Sounds like pl premium should be sponsoring your videos. New to your channel, your knowledge is greatly appreciated.
I’m just getting into carpentry and your videos help tremendously.
I'm a big believer in using "story poles. I use them for cabinets, wainscotting, horizontal trims, picket layout, etc etc,,, I was taught their value when I learned to "side wall" shingled houses back in the dark ages. When I'm installing stairs and rails I create one for all the intersections at the newels. In the case of this video there are four "profiles" (the usual amount required) from what I could tell and they could each occupy a side of 2X square stock. There are some cases where the pole can't lay against the part that you are measuring. In that case I use my sliding square a cross the line to bridge the gap between the pole and the piece. This is accomplished one handed. I use different color sharpies when particular dimensions need to stand out and try and use straight grained, light colored knot free stock. Since wood "doesn't shrink" parallel to the grain story poles are accurate over time. Another nice feature about a story pole is that you can tape a couple torpedo levels to adjacent sides for instant reference to plumb, if your OCD nature demands . This probably doesn't matter to a 1/4" carpenter but it's very helpful to someone striving to get in "dead on". Story poles eliminate so many common measuring mistakes, take memory out of the equation, provide deadly accurate repeatable elevation, work perfectly with lazer levels, allow for varying center dimensions, and can be made up in less that ten minutes,,, if you are doing production work, taking them from house to house in a track,, they will save you money, time and mistakes,,, After a job is over, I often take them back to the shop and save for re-use, as a reference or as as-build's. The more a carpenter keeps that tape measure in the bags, out of the work flow and lays out by direct measure the fewer mistakes will be made. In the long run fewer mistakes always translates into a better reputation, more work at a higher rate, and more time off for golf, fishing or motorcycle riding as the case may be.
spot on, Paul. I couldn't have said it better! Not that there's anything wrong with the way Spencer does it, either.
Nice job. The only thing I have against that PL is if the steps and box jewels have been pre- finished. I notice it does penetrate the wood . it sits on the finish pieces. I no what you're thinking. Who refinished the protect before but the company I worked for did. I ended up doweling my post in to the flooring to achieve a strong joint. It was a bit longer but it was the only way I could come up with doing it. If you can make a comment or another way. I would appreciate it. By the way the dowels I used were glue in with carpenter glue into newel and the sub floor. It made a very strong application but time consuming getting everything to line up. Thanks for you videos. As I've been doing this for 40 +yrs.but there is always another way of doing it.
.
@@robertsabella7298 maybe for prefinished wood you mask off with tape before setting? How deep of a stain have you noticed? Maybe you can roll on a sanding sealer to the unfinished end grain before doing the final set, that sealer dries pretty quickly.
Nice work, in Pacific Northwest the majority of trim is prefinish, even paint grade, techniques are the same except everything is cut through green tape to avoid blowout, been at it for decades always work alone, nice to see a kid with skills.
You the man.
Whomever gets you to do work on their house are lucky homeowners!!!! Worth every penny if not more.
Dude you are the best!!! Crash test batteries....what a tip!!!
Iv learned many new skill ideas and application.
Your very good n clear teacher and Carpenter:)
My man there is such an easier way to establish the height of the post mathematically , but love your videos.
Excellent jobsite instruction. Your explanation of the necessity of seeing the whole process while doing each "step" (pun intended) is dead on.
I never thought to use a $100+ battery for a ram. My go to choice is a Stanley flat bar. Its always in my tool tote with the cats paw. I keep the close at hand for use as I reverse engineer the framing!
Keep up the good work.
It seemed that those caps may have been friction fit. IDK...
spencer this video was great. i thought i was the only one who knocks his stuff down the stairs(?) i guess not. PL premium is the best.... my fingertips are often black. (if youve used it, you know what im talking about). keep up on the videos, i love em.
I really enjoy your channel. A lot of good info. Your a very good finish carpenter.
This answered a lot for me, however it also left me with more questions - Like it was mentioned to think 10 steps ahead but didn't explain how or what pieces to consider and make adjustments for like the following:
Does position differ for enclosed treads vs open?
Do you consider and make adjustments for paneling thickness on the stair wall?
How do you plan for your balusters?
What is the end result going to look like?
Thanks for the amazing video, and that settles me a bunch of riddling questions for installing newel boxes. Great job!
Great job! Thanks so much for sharing your wisdom.
As always, I learn more and more ways to be better about all things in my carpentry arsenal through your tips, tricks, and knowledge. Great video Spencer!
Good job. I am trying to figure out how to attach a newel post on some open stairs that don't have knee walls like this. And metal stud framing underneath so no good solid wood to attach the post to.
outstanding vid again man. you are one of a kind and this channel is a joy. hope your week is perfect
Great post....what about some tricks for installation of the handrails!! Thanks
I've done quite a bit of exterior vinyl/aluminum hand rails over the last 20 years.
I think of the top corner newel as the kingpin, everything is based off of it.
Once 1 side is done from top to bottom, a level can be run across to set height on the adjacent side.
The worst thing is when the upper posts are not far enough outboard of the face (typically miscalculated in framing) , resulting in double posts at the top.
So it's corner post then a short straight run, and the transition happens on the second post.
This often happens after a thick material has been applied to the face, brick especially can move the nosing out 3 inches past the framing.
Excellent knowledge as always, thanks Spencer!
I am redoing my stair case right now from closed to open stair case with newel post and rails.
I really learned from your video.
I have a 2 step landing. Could you do a video showing how to do the landing post.
Really love your instruction,please keep upload as much as you can bro
Thanks for your work
Your videos are awesome - thank you for posting them. Cheers from Wisconsin.
Thanks Man , it was really helpful…
, God bless your hands
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, videos are very helpful
"It doesn't have to be intimidating"
9 minutes in and my palms are sweaty...
Don't eat your mom's spaghetti before you start
Sooooo glade I watched this video before replacing my posts! Thanks so much. Your videos are super informative
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge and skills I always learn something from you. I wish I could work as an apprentice under you.keep the videos coming. Thanks again
You are very welcome
About to tackle my first Stair job.. thank you for sharing your many tricks and explaining everything so well, hopefully it goes as easy as you make it seem!! Lol! Thanks again!
This is a very well explained video thank you
Love this chanel. You are by far the best trim guy on TH-cam. I'm just curious, when you trim an entire house does the builder do the take-off for all trim material, or are you involved with the process?
the trim vendor does it.
When you say take off, does that mean determining the amount of product needed? or is it something else?
Fantastic breakdown
Great video, especially with the tool durability test included no extra charge.🙃
I love that saw. 😂
If my saw bounced down the stairs like that you can bet the last bounce would have sent it through that window. 😯
I know the homes you are working on are forever homes, but I still feel bad for the guy that comes in after you to repair or replace anything lol. "Well m'am, I know you just wanted that piece replaced your dog chewed up but I have to remove the entire subfloor to get the trim board out as they are glued together." Keep up the amazing work Spencer. Wish there was more of a market for this around me but it seems everyone is just passing through and dosn't want anything near this quality.
Being involved in remodeling, I've had similar thoughts. Then I just put my spec builder mind back in gear and appreciate the attempt to produce a 75 year, or more, result.
I do mine very similar with my custom posts. Except , I leave post baseboard off , use 8 “ lag bolts counter set in on angle into floor, then apply baseboards over top with brads.
Always good content in your videos. I learn something every time I watch. I have a few stair jobs coming up and was looking for some pointers and tricks. Thanks for the video.
*Welcome back*
🤜🏻💥🤛🏻
Very clever..great video as always mate, thanks for going in to great depth to show us how its done properly 👍👍👍👍
You must get free batteries. Great work non the less. 1 of many ways to secure those nusense(newel) posts.
Unfortunately, my English is poor. I really like your videos. I get a lot of useful information from you. I'm an old European carpenter. A lot of different things are made here. I always marvel at the materials you work with. Greetings to you. Is the machine rolling ??
Very helpful to see how you anchor Newell so they don’t wiggle.
Your work is amazing. Keep up the great work
Thanks for all the great info you put out there Spencer. I would be happy to apprentice under your guidance. I'm 65, and have always enjoyed a carpentry challenge. When can I start?
It would be nice to include the gauge and length of nails using and what type of nail gun you're using, thank you
This is a really helpful video, well done!!!!
Great video and explanation but I do have a question as far as local code goes. Here in AZ we have to get the railing past the bottom riser along with passing the top riser at landing or second floor. Generally that means solid newel posts are able to be simply lagged into the curb and flush plugged. When it comes to box newels I generally make a fillet block that I railbolt to the floor, plumb the filler block to then slide the post over and screw directly to that. Also including a bunch of contractors adhesive ha
As usual, exactly the detail I needs. TY
Great video. Did you make the box newel or purchase it? If purchased, where did you purchase please
Amazing work and very helpful. Thanks
Nice work Spencer
How did you figure out the angle at which the rake handrail needs to be cut at?
Quick question.. does a 20 volt or 36 volt battery work better to knock the caps off the posts? 😅
Wonderful video. Thank you. One question. What is the thickness of one of the walls? At the bottom, looking at the hollow part, is that 3/4”?
Absolute phenomenal video!!!
Great tutorial. For closed stringers.
Personally I prefer the open stringer vs the closed stringers. Which would require a different installation method.
👍
Great post, thanks!
Simply impressive. Well done.
I enjoy watching your work. You seem pretty young. Where'd you learn all your techniques?
What size and gauge of nails are you using for that post at the base? Thanks for this demo.
15 gauge 2-1/2"
Great info thanks for the video
Saw didn't ding the wall, you're good. Lol!
Awesome video -- as a fan of overkill I'd probably have mechanically fastened those into the framing somehow along with the adhesive but those are going to be rock solid either way with all that PL.
Did a few posts in my house and used lags and glue... Tarzan could swing on them so I'm not worried about my kids yanking on them.
Great video as usual
I love box newels are great fun. Do you do half newels on the wall or full width
On production jobs I’ll terminate directly into the wall or use a rosette.
@@InsiderCarpentry that’s possibly the most common application. I like to hear about what true carpenters do in certain cases. Love the channel and your outlook on the trade. Very informative. Thanks for the insight.
Joel
These videos are great. I'm an owner/builder and it doesn't look like my framer has done the framing correctly in preparation for drywall than finish stairs. Are there any videos that show the steps prior to this one on how to do the preparation? The process in this video only works if everything prior is do right. Thanks.
Love the fact that you didnt edit out your powertools tumbling down the stairs 👍
I have a problem with the framers a lot. I set my post almost identical to what you do. But the bottom post once set and cured. Moves side to side a little. Not because I set it bad. No, you can see the entire wall move with the post lol I fixed that by adding screws through the stairs in to the post to help lock the wall in a little better
Same here, the framing is always the weak spot, even though that should never be.
I’ve done that and am constantly remodeling the top of the rake walls to actually match the pitch of the treads. I’m becoming convinced there are zero craftsmen on 90% of framing crews these days.
@@paysonbiker It's like they can get the check to clear with no regard to how they effect the next step or the people that live in it
Looks great 👍 like always 👌
Amazing tutorial. You've become an excellent trade educator.
BTW, using batteries as an "oomph vector" may damage them. In worst case scenario they may even explode.
Question - can you add another railing going up to another landing to this newel post?
When you are marking 36 inches off the plane of the newel post are you not supposed to add an inch for the finish height with tread? Thanks!
Great job and excellent tips!
Great Video!
Excellent teacher, thanks!
What do you do up agains the wall . A half Newel post ?
A rosette or half newel. Depends on budget and design.
I always learn so much, thanks
Are you going to post the entire stair build? I have a stairs coming up that's exactly like that. I'm a finish carpenter myself but always looking for tips on things to better myself.
Just that video for this job. It’s done and I’ve moved on.
Hey Spence love the videos.
I’m a little confused. You took the top caps off but never lagged anything.
Hahah
Answered my own question.
It’s for the railings.
Love it love it keep posting
Love your videos. The only thing I want you to do is to get a wireless microphone to use. So much better audio with your great video.
Excellent content! I enjoy your approach and the 'wet' method looks sturdy for sure. I'm gonna admit... I hate doing stairs and newel posts always have so much force in many directions which lend to loose posts over the years. That said, I'm sure this locks it all in tightly and is bound to last well. Your stair tip which made me chuckle was to 'think 10 steps ahead'... kept waiting for a rimshot on that one. lol. Thanks for sharing.
I finished my stair project a couple months ago but watched anyway. 👍 Forgot to ask, is the lag bolt installation in part 2?
No part 2, but I hope to cover handrail installation someday.
Spencer, thank you for your videos. my parents are trimming out new house and need to know if box newel posts should go on top of hard wood or before hardwood. Prefinished hardwood starts soon...very soon. they have 4 on a catwalk two on the stairs. they said stair post are after wood treads. Appreciate assistance!
Will take input of audience too.
This is my first time watching one of Spencer's videos. Thought I'd give some audience feedback here. I've been doing staircase renovations for 15 years. Almost every job is over existing flooring, whether hardwood, ceramic or carpet. In my early days I ran crews but got tired of baby-sitting and now I work alone. When I ran crews I outlawed PL on my jobsites. I had 2 situations very early on where PL got on the bottom of an installers shoe and was transfered around the floor. I learned that PL eats urethane and destroys carpet. Even after releasing the trigger it still oozes in places where you may not realize so you might accidentally step in it. There is one specialty solvent for it, that isn't easy to find, and it must be applied within 12 hours or it will permanently damage urethane. If you are going to use PL, do yourself a favour and use it before the flooring goes down or be very very careful with it. Regardless, if I had the choice, I would put the post in first. I should mention that I have only worked with solid posts. I would probably use PL if I were doing box posts but take extreme precautions if I'm on existing flooring. Also, research where to get the solvent before you start, just in case.
Just did a little research. In case anyone is interested, it seems Magic Eraser takes Pl Premium film off prefinished hardwood flooring. This would make me a little more confident using PL.
Ahhh. The old battery in the newel post trick. Nice
Great video....Do you leave 1/16 all around when setting newels over blocks?
Yes, and then let that gap be filled with PL. It will expand and lock it in.
@@InsiderCarpentry Thanks for for getting back to me.
Did you not need to account for the finished tread when measuring for the rake handrail height?
Given that code says 34-38" on the rake, and these will be covered in carpet...I just usually go 36" and call it a day. On the rake I feel that 36" or less is most comfortable. So going 36 off the framing is usually what I like personally.
@@InsiderCarpentry Oh gotcha! Thanks
I’m getting ready to redo my stairs and railings. I’m in California it’s required that newel post be able to withstand 200 lbs in any direction. Will your wet setting meet this requirement? As this would be a much easier and less time consuming install.
How in the world do they test for that?