I didn't agree with every method he used ,but I am grateful he took the time to post the video. I for one learned a new way to find the handrail height. let's not be so critical of people especially when you don't have your own videos people can critique.
Hey Mark The Average Homeowner, Great videos! Thanks for all the tips. We have boring half walls and have wondered how to redo them with a nice railing and banister. Your's turned out great! It's beautiful!
One tip i learned through the years is to varnish or polyurethane to seal the wood up, , BEFORE you fill holes with wood filler . That way you avoid the risk of that film of filler that could show up around the hole from not sanding enough.after you start your finish coating A lot of time it is really hard to detect visually on bare wood , but will show up after the finish coat is applied. Then go over 1 or 2 times after that with your finish coat.
Should have notched it into the knee wall for more room to maneuver that corner. No way would I have installed it flush for that reason. I also think notching it in makes it look more a part of the staircase, and not so much stand alone.
You should’ve half lap the bottom of the newel to increase more room at the bottom part. Between the face of the newel post and the wall. Thanks for sharing
Its all what direction the owner wants....sometimes the budget was spent on materials + labor wage is ?. 55 hourly is my rate for my region/state could charge 75 money spends faster then its made.
@@pawsNparachutes exactly 55$ it's the lowest I go. Most of the time 75 to 120$ an hour plus a profit on the top. I still much affordable than a stair company. I used to work for a stair company more than 20 years. The treatment was bad. So I left started my own dea and never look back. Still can't understand why it took me so long to make that move. Been doing it for 30 years worked in the shop manufacturing parts bending wood making parts for circular stairs etc etc. I said it's time for me to make me some money. Screw that boss
Don’t forget the hand rail slides down 3/4 of an inch. From the face of the bottom wrap So if you don’t consider that your hand rail will end up being 3/4 lower than desired
A glue connection to a finished surface does not provide strength by any means. A proper newel is sent through the tread and fastened from below or fastened into the knee wall with sufficient lags, a newel post anchor kit would also do the trick. This handrail is botched as well, it does not follow the slope of the skirt board meaning it does not follow the slope of the stairs, at some point a cut or measurement was screwed up, you can visually see that the handrail line is not consistent with the slope of the skirt trim behind it. Not trying to be a dick, but it should be done right.
The rail does follow the stair tread angle. The trim was previously installed by someone not following the stair angle. There are many ways to anchor a post, this is just one of many. Lag bolts will also come loose but a good adhesive will hold the best. Please add comments that will be helpful.
In terms of the visual aspect, wouldn’t it be better to visually align with the skirt anyway? I mean, you do have a range to stay compliant with building code. I understand that it would be more time consuming to cut each baluster to a different length, but wouldn’t it be worth it to have it all line up visually AND be within building code?
Wood filler doesn’t work on raw oak because it fills in the deep grain too. You have to wait until the wood is finished with stain and poly before using filler.
Your measurements are out because you ignored that the newel steps in - if you're transferring heights related to a sloped line then that measurement ONLY works if the points you are measuring between are plumb.
Proffered industry standard yes! But then again, I have demoed many old railings out that were only fastened with 16d finish nails and pretty much destroyed the walls/newel post in so doing!!!
Although this man seams to have some technical skills, his methods are not all adequate. His method of determining the height of the handrail and the height of the newel was well executed. The method of attaching the newel to the floor was inadequate and will loosen after a few years. Four screws into the existing stair tread is not sufficient. It is fortunate that the knee wall is there to help support the newel. The end of the knee wall is not plumb (perfectly vertical), I'm assuming that will be caulked. The railing should not be nailed, but rather screwed into the newel post. The rosette should have been installed to the end of the railing with screws before attaching it to the wall. The rosette should have been screwed to the wall. All of the screw holes should have been predrilled. When checking if something is perfectly vertical, it is checked for plumb, not level. Wondering who did the other trim work. The joint in the casing at the end of the knee wall is certainly not well mated. I would liked to have seen the baluster installation.
I was enjoying this until it came to about 9;36 when we were told you were going to "level" the post. Level is a horizontal thing....... The term needed here is plumb,or 90 degrees from horizontal......I think it is important to note the difference......
I dunno for sure but maybe mostly DIYers are watching? Most non construction people I talk to, do not use the word plumb. If I were to show somebody what do, I would say "level" as well. It avoids more questions in my opinion.
I am somewhat of a novice at stairwork but even I noticed many problems with this video. For an average homeowner doing DIY, this may be somewhat helpful. But it’s not great. The rail angle also does not even match the angle of the wainscoting going up the stairs.
without the handrail a female should gracefully take your hand guided by exterior light fixture aesthetic bar stool complimentary mpshee ultraglide embedded sidewall track for the male to show simultaneous strength of the weighted foot outermost
Just because you are so handsome and hot! I have subscribed to your channel...;-) I love watching your video especially coming from a handsome guy like you! Marty,
I don't like how any of this is fastened. It will all loosen up over time. Colonial Trim on return by bottom of Newel post did not even line up in the miter. Hack Job.
It is really helpful to understand that the newel length above the rake line is always the same. Didn't know that! Thanks for sharing!
I didn't agree with every method he used ,but I am grateful he took the time to post the video. I for one learned a new way to find the handrail height.
let's not be so critical of people especially when you don't have your own videos people can critique.
This is a great video. Should the newel post at the top of a stairs be cut to the same height, please?
Hey Mark The Average Homeowner, Great videos! Thanks for all the tips. We have boring half walls and have wondered how to redo them with a nice railing and banister. Your's turned out great! It's beautiful!
I'm grateful for this video- very hard for me to figure out the math of my handrail. I hope to follow his steps to do my own stairs. thank you!
Video is just what i needed!
Why wasn't the post nothed to the first floor through the nosing?
How are you going to trim the base of the box newel?
One tip i learned through the years is to varnish or polyurethane to seal the wood up, , BEFORE you fill holes with wood filler .
That way you avoid the risk of that film of filler that could show up around the hole from not sanding enough.after you start your finish coating
A lot of time it is really hard to detect visually on bare wood , but will show up after the finish coat is applied. Then go over 1 or 2 times after that with your finish coat.
Great tip! I prefer a sanding sealer but all good choices
That post is not installed strong enough...notched and set with lag bolts much stronger
Should have notched it into the knee wall for more room to maneuver that corner. No way would I have installed it flush for that reason. I also think notching it in makes it look more a part of the staircase, and not so much stand alone.
Just an observation as to why an “S” curve handrail wasn’t used?
You should’ve half lap the bottom of the newel to increase more room at the bottom part. Between the face of the newel post and the wall. Thanks for sharing
Its all what direction the owner wants....sometimes the budget was spent on materials + labor wage is ?. 55 hourly is my rate for my region/state could charge 75
money spends faster then its made.
Also I agree more space + looks much cleaner!
@@pawsNparachutes exactly 55$ it's the lowest I go. Most of the time 75 to 120$ an hour plus a profit on the top. I still much affordable than a stair company. I used to work for a stair company more than 20 years. The treatment was bad. So I left started my own dea and never look back. Still can't understand why it took me so long to make that move. Been doing it for 30 years worked in the shop manufacturing parts bending wood making parts for circular stairs etc etc. I said it's time for me to make me some money. Screw that boss
Don’t forget the hand rail slides down 3/4 of an inch. From the face of the bottom wrap So if you don’t consider that your hand rail will end up being 3/4 lower than desired
Do you have a video of the connection point from the knee wall to the stairwell? I have the same setup and need some guidance please
A very good teacher.
cr
All my life I've been using dap plus white and it works perfectly to fill the holes😅
A glue connection to a finished surface does not provide strength by any means. A proper newel is sent through the tread and fastened from below or fastened into the knee wall with sufficient lags, a newel post anchor kit would also do the trick. This handrail is botched as well, it does not follow the slope of the skirt board meaning it does not follow the slope of the stairs, at some point a cut or measurement was screwed up, you can visually see that the handrail line is not consistent with the slope of the skirt trim behind it. Not trying to be a dick, but it should be done right.
The rail does follow the stair tread angle. The trim was previously installed by someone not following the stair angle. There are many ways to anchor a post, this is just one of many. Lag bolts will also come loose but a good adhesive will hold the best. Please add comments that will be helpful.
In terms of the visual aspect, wouldn’t it be better to visually align with the skirt anyway? I mean, you do have a range to stay compliant with building code. I understand that it would be more time consuming to cut each baluster to a different length, but wouldn’t it be worth it to have it all line up visually AND be within building code?
Wood filler doesn’t work on raw oak because it fills in the deep grain too. You have to wait until the wood is finished with stain and poly before using filler.
Should have been a continuous rail with an s turn or the wall handrail needs to be on the other side. to pass most requirements
sorry for sounding critical. also would have used a newal lag for you mounting block. otherwise great work.
Steven l Campbell
How do yo figure? If the landing is only one step .It is not required.
If there is plenty room in between walls. A full wall rail can be installed to avoid s shape fitting
In the state I live that rail would never pass code without that "S'
Your measurements are out because you ignored that the newel steps in - if you're transferring heights related to a sloped line then that measurement ONLY works if the points you are measuring between are plumb.
VERY NICE VERY WELL EXPLAINED THANKS
Handrail needs to be fastened to the newel post and upper wall plate with a large screw or bolt connector, ALL THE TIME. You can't just glue and tack
@13:08 The installer said that he was nailing, and would "come back later" to screw the handrail more securely.
Proffered industry standard yes! But then again, I have demoed many old railings out that were only fastened with 16d finish nails and pretty much destroyed the walls/newel post in so doing!!!
Although this man seams to have some technical skills, his methods are not all adequate. His method of determining the height of the handrail and the height of the newel was well executed. The method of attaching the newel to the floor was inadequate and will loosen after a few years. Four screws into the existing stair tread is not sufficient. It is fortunate that the knee wall is there to help support the newel. The end of the knee wall is not plumb (perfectly vertical), I'm assuming that will be caulked. The railing should not be nailed, but rather screwed into the newel post. The rosette should have been installed to the end of the railing with screws before attaching it to the wall. The rosette should have been screwed to the wall. All of the screw holes should have been predrilled. When checking if something is perfectly vertical, it is checked for plumb, not level. Wondering who did the other trim work. The joint in the casing at the end of the knee wall is certainly not well mated. I would liked to have seen the baluster installation.
Bill Ammer point
Darn. These comments are scaring me. I thought it looked simpler. I liked the fact that it fit right into place. Back to the drawing board...:-(
I was enjoying this until it came to about 9;36 when we were told you were going to "level" the post. Level is a horizontal thing....... The term needed here is plumb,or 90 degrees from horizontal......I think it is important to note the difference......
I dunno for sure but maybe mostly DIYers are watching? Most non construction people I talk to, do not use the word plumb. If I were to show somebody what do, I would say "level" as well. It avoids more questions in my opinion.
Not perfect but most get the point
He took up stair space. I thought he said he was going to notch it into stringer curtain??
The post
No banest dowels?
good job
Not sure if it hold me when I walk on those steps drunk at 2am in the morning
I am somewhat of a novice at stairwork but even I noticed many problems with this video. For an average homeowner doing DIY, this may be somewhat helpful. But it’s not great. The rail angle also does not even match the angle of the wainscoting going up the stairs.
without the handrail a female should gracefully take your hand guided by exterior light fixture aesthetic bar stool complimentary mpshee ultraglide embedded sidewall track for the male to show simultaneous strength of the weighted foot outermost
excuse that pyrotechnic fog ; nouveau handrailing a make that europiranha manicure look mechanic mannish my lug
I'd rather do the calisthenics gloved than proceed width calesisystem
grocery lift also ; fin
finish off with emergency garage door opener and fireplace
Bic Bic Bic.. can't you.. not say it that way note tisk sink something
Those mounting blocks are useless, they are way too small
Not secured enough. Finish nails don’t do it.
Just because you are so handsome and hot! I have subscribed to your channel...;-) I love watching your video especially coming from a handsome guy like you!
Marty,
Lol!!!
Why are they still measuring in inches , millimetres are far more accurate , ,
What we have is too long to measure in mm. :-)
I don't like how any of this is fastened. It will all loosen up over time.
Colonial Trim on return by bottom of Newel post did not even line up in the miter. Hack Job.