Dude I’m so glad I found you a few months ago. You’ve literally saved my ass several times. Your videos are the only person I’ve found installing the exact same products as me
I'm a flooring guy with more than 30 years in so far. I was doing a 3/4 solid hardwood job in 100+ years old house. Customers asked is there anything you can do about the railing and post moving ( only 4' long handrail . Post attached with nails and not through subfloor and attached to joists). I bought some 1/2" by 1' wide L brackets and 3" screws. Was able to hallow cut hardwood so brackets weren't visible when done. I tucked some brackets under post and had some away from post all covered with pl premium and screwed it down as good as I could. Still wiggled a bit at end of day but the next morning it was as solid as a rock. Nice when things go our way sometimes.
It is a pleasure to watch such a detail oriented professional even with a remodel and paint grade products. I would hire you in a heartbeat if you were local. Very impressed.
This is yet another reason why this channel is one of my favorites. I do the screw thing too, BUT like a moron ive never thought to run a torpedo across to them! Like DUH!!
You know what ? You just get better every time…… I can’t believe this is my next job iv got at my home, wife is pecking my head to replace what we have for Oak, and you’ve made my job / life so much easier… thank you so much 😊 👍👍👍👍
Thanks for all the info. I did Carpentry overseas where I’m from originally and I’m trying to start doing it here in the USA. I learned a lot from you how it’s done here. I really appreciate you and the time you put to do these videos. When I’m gonna start buying my tools I will definitely use your links as a way of thanking you. Thanks again
Your an excellent young man. Great workmanship.. I've been a contractor many years and it's a blessing to see and hear a good man with great knowledge. And ability keep.up the great work.
Dude, Im learning so much from your videos. Ive always wanted/meant to apprentice with a professional carpenter but was always too busy in the other trades. Now Im a small independent contractor who does pretty much everything, but my main weakness is just inexperience with these kinds of things. Thank you for taking the time to share your skills and experience with all of us guys.
The level of thought that goes into your work, with practical methods and construction resources makes me feel like a moron. The way you break things down, take your time and show how each component comes together and works as a unit is what really imprints on me. I am a hands on guy. However i can follow when there is thought and thorough instructions that lets me know the workings of the elements not seen or part of the finish exposure. You should really do full teaching videos bud, i would definitely pay for your experience and practical methods. Grateful for you sharing your knowledge and experience, true blessing.
Dry wall screws as shims 👍. I once forgot about squaring the face in the excitement of getting it plumb in two directions. Once. Thanks for the reminder - and the video.
Using this technique on my mountain cabin loft railing I custom made from rough cut beetle kill pine (solid posts) and loving the tips! Thanks a bunch!
Great informational video. Building my own house just now. I’ve framed the landing 3.5” back so I can grk the newels straight into the trimmer and then run the fascia over the face of the posts.
Nice work. Getting the railing in asap also lets you work safer. (Our newel posts were worn round from us kids swinging around them; perfect observation.)
I'm probably not the first to say this to you, but have you ever checked out the Milwaukee Fuel Surge impact driver? For things like setting those drywall screws at the right depth or other precision work you can set them on the lowest speed setting and make super fine adjustments so easily. It's hard to describe how efficient and satisfying it is. I know you highly value efficiency, and that tool would be right up your alley. I know you're already partly on the platform with your nailers... Considerably less noise and vibration, too. Especially in unfinished houses like you work in. God bless!
I had an older woman neighbor years ago and her staircase rail was wobbly and scared the hell out of me for her. There was literally nothing good for the post to attach to besides the side of the stairs which was a few decades past "sturdy". I ended up cutting a 4x4 hole in the floor and bolting it to a joist that luckily was only an inch away from the right spot. Lots of wood glue too haha. Worked like a charm!
Great job as always. I learn so much. Code also requires handrails be able to withstand at least 200 pounds of lateral force. Yours should have no trouble meeting this requirement.
I love the rabbet around the base of the post. That’s an awesome idea. I’ve never seen that before but what I have done in the past is I take as long of a lag bolt as I can find. I cut off the head of the bolt. I only want the threaded part of the lag bolt. Usually 5-6” is all the threads you can find. I then drill a hole in the center of the bottom of the post and thread half of the lag into the post. I then drill a hole into the floor dead center of where the post is going to land. You have to make sure you have solid framing below the subfloor. More often then not I have to add blocking. But then I just glue the shit out of the base of the post and I use the post and a clamp for leverage and I thread the post into the floor and with the combination of the mechanical fastener, the lag bolt and the wood glue for Insirance. You can have the post setting by itself with nothing bracing it in any direction and after the glue dries you couldn’t budge the post if you tried to. I hate to think about the poor guy that has to demo it out someday and can’t figure out where the post is fastened. Lol
Your technique is nearly the proper, time-honored technique for correct newel post installation. Take the extra step of drilling a hole in the side of the newel, then thread a bolt onto that lag screw. It's close quarters to tighten down that bolt, but take your time. In the end you have a post that is mechanically fastened to the framing, the clear winner of all the work-arounds mentioned above. (TIP: they make fasteners called "dowel screws" for applications like this, so you don't have to cut the head off a bolt/screw.)
Nice… I use the screw trick on bottom of baseboard in the corners to keep them from rolling… Especially on old remodels… I tape a piece of baseboard to my torpedo level and level the screw in the corners
Fantastic man..nice to see another guy share his skills.. I just don't have the patience anymore to teach..i kind of like to turn the music on and enter my own magical world of frustration ..and suffer quietly hahaha I had to come back and add this after reading others comments..it appears there are alot of us who like you channel..some mention starting a television show...hahahaha. You know..Norm, and Tommy and getting up in yrs..its a good time to move in and take over this old house...hahahaha..
I really like that shoulder at the bottom of newel to cover rail shoe, I always bury my solid newels if there’s not two rim joists, but I’ve always installed them first then notched shoe rail around the newel mitering the two end ears turning the grain around the newel, skipped the middle and end newel, I’ll adopt your method though I really like that! Thanks!
Looks nice. Glad my builder didn’t PL my bottom newel posts in place, had to pull them out to get the refrigerator through the narrow hall where the stairs meet the main floor. PL would’ve made for a real problem. :)
Finally, I've been looking for info on installing newel posts through the floor for a long time. I'll be doing this in my house soon. And I'll be watching this video a few hundred more times :) measure twice cut once type deal. Watch a hundred times so you don't screw things up. Great job and awesome video, very detailed. Thank You
Liked all you did. Only change I would have put solid shims under the board instead of just the screws. Not that your way doesn’t work, that is just preference. There is always a different way to do things.
Could you show how you make the rabbet cuts on the newel posts? I made a post today like yours but I had to use a hand saw and coping saw to get nice cuts. My table saw fence is not the best and I had issues trying to use it to rabbet.
Is it going to be carpet on the upper level? I see you already have some base installed upstairs. My question is how do you know where to end your skirtboard? I see that it's flush to the top of the subfloor. How do you plan to transition that to the baseboard?
How to convert a 4 step entrance into the banisters that currently has a 4-foot toll square walls on both sides? Have you ever done such conversions? Many thanks for your priceless tips.
Hey brother! Great job! What kind of saw did you use to make that rabbit cut? Could probably use a sawzall but I figured i would ask you. Thanks for your videos brother
Ideally, the newel posts are not "top mounted" - meaning the face of the post is in line, or beyond, the edge of the nosing. This allows you to notch the posts around the floor system, then cut the nosing and fascia between the posts. If it's absolutely necessary to top mount solid newels, use PL and sure-tite newel fasteners. We've installed hundreds, maybe thousands of newels like this with no callbacks, and no mortising into the floor system.
Chase I agree I have used them for years. Usually put them in at an angle to grab the framing. Bend them straight up then drill holes out. Once locked down, solid. Spencer Question with the install of the nosing shimmed up with screws you can’t run hardwood flooring. Seems you would have a lip. I’ll belt sand sub flooring to help level things out a bit. And glue straight to that.
Dude I’m so glad I found you a few months ago. You’ve literally saved my ass several times. Your videos are the only person I’ve found installing the exact same products as me
I'm a flooring guy with more than 30 years in so far. I was doing a 3/4 solid hardwood job in 100+ years old house. Customers asked is there anything you can do about the railing and post moving ( only 4' long handrail . Post attached with nails and not through subfloor and attached to joists). I bought some 1/2" by 1' wide L brackets and 3" screws. Was able to hallow cut hardwood so brackets weren't visible when done. I tucked some brackets under post and had some away from post all covered with pl premium and screwed it down as good as I could. Still wiggled a bit at end of day but the next morning it was as solid as a rock. Nice when things go our way sometimes.
It is a pleasure to watch such a detail oriented professional even with a remodel and paint grade products. I would hire you in a heartbeat if you were local. Very impressed.
This is yet another reason why this channel is one of my favorites. I do the screw thing too, BUT like a moron ive never thought to run a torpedo across to them! Like DUH!!
Man you need your own show on cable lol! Very easy to understand for us newbies. Thanks for your videos very helpful
Appreciate you taking time, and sharing the knowledge.
You know what ? You just get better every time…… I can’t believe this is my next job iv got at my home, wife is pecking my head to replace what we have for Oak, and you’ve made my job / life so much easier… thank you so much 😊 👍👍👍👍
Best finish carpenter in US you need to do more often videos man👍👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks for all the info. I did Carpentry overseas where I’m from originally and I’m trying to start doing it here in the USA. I learned a lot from you how it’s done here. I really appreciate you and the time you put to do these videos. When I’m gonna start buying my tools I will definitely use your links as a way of thanking you. Thanks again
Good luck on your next chapter 😊
@@colmgray thank you
Your an excellent young man. Great workmanship.. I've been a contractor many years and it's a blessing to see and hear a good man with great knowledge. And ability keep.up the great work.
Dude, Im learning so much from your videos. Ive always wanted/meant to apprentice with a professional carpenter but was always too busy in the other trades. Now Im a small independent contractor who does pretty much everything, but my main weakness is just inexperience with these kinds of things. Thank you for taking the time to share your skills and experience with all of us guys.
The level of thought that goes into your work, with practical methods and construction resources makes me feel like a moron. The way you break things down, take your time and show how each component comes together and works as a unit is what really imprints on me.
I am a hands on guy. However i can follow when there is thought and thorough instructions that lets me know the workings of the elements not seen or part of the finish exposure.
You should really do full teaching videos bud, i would definitely pay for your experience and practical methods. Grateful for you sharing your knowledge and experience, true blessing.
The drywall screws as shims, pretty neat 👍👍👍👍
Very good work pal, I'm a carpenter too and home remodeler, I like your methods, very strong, you do things the RIGHT WAY‼️😉
You were flawless in your teachings here! Good work as always my man!
This is great. I kinda picked up carpentry on my own for my own house, so seeing how you use random screws and shims to even stuff up is reassuring.
If there is one thing that I am learning from Spencer it is to not be afraid to use adhesive!
BEST CARPENTRY VIDEOS ON TH-cam!! PERIOD!!
Dry wall screws as shims 👍. I once forgot about squaring the face in the excitement of getting it plumb in two directions. Once. Thanks for the reminder - and the video.
I am not even a carpenter but I enjoy learning from you!! Wish you were in CT!
Clear, consice, and well thought out plan of attack.
Thanks for sharing
Using this technique on my mountain cabin loft railing I custom made from rough cut beetle kill pine (solid posts) and loving the tips! Thanks a bunch!
Great informational video. Building my own house just now. I’ve framed the landing 3.5” back so I can grk the newels straight into the trimmer and then run the fascia over the face of the posts.
Spencer, your speach and your way of presentation is better than that of a Harvard professor.👍
Super!
Nice work. Getting the railing in asap also lets you work safer. (Our newel posts were worn round from us kids swinging around them; perfect observation.)
I'm probably not the first to say this to you, but have you ever checked out the Milwaukee Fuel Surge impact driver? For things like setting those drywall screws at the right depth or other precision work you can set them on the lowest speed setting and make super fine adjustments so easily. It's hard to describe how efficient and satisfying it is. I know you highly value efficiency, and that tool would be right up your alley. I know you're already partly on the platform with your nailers... Considerably less noise and vibration, too. Especially in unfinished houses like you work in. God bless!
I had an older woman neighbor years ago and her staircase rail was wobbly and scared the hell out of me for her. There was literally nothing good for the post to attach to besides the side of the stairs which was a few decades past "sturdy". I ended up cutting a 4x4 hole in the floor and bolting it to a joist that luckily was only an inch away from the right spot. Lots of wood glue too haha. Worked like a charm!
Great job as always. I learn so much. Code also requires handrails be able to withstand at least 200 pounds of lateral force. Yours should have no trouble meeting this requirement.
I love the rabbet around the base of the post. That’s an awesome idea. I’ve never seen that before but what I have done in the past is I take as long of a lag bolt as I can find. I cut off the head of the bolt. I only want the threaded part of the lag bolt. Usually 5-6” is all the threads you can find. I then drill a hole in the center of the bottom of the post and thread half of the lag into the post. I then drill a hole into the floor dead center of where the post is going to land. You have to make sure you have solid framing below the subfloor. More often then not I have to add blocking. But then I just glue the shit out of the base of the post and I use the post and a clamp for leverage and I thread the post into the floor and with the combination of the mechanical fastener, the lag bolt and the wood glue for Insirance. You can have the post setting by itself with nothing bracing it in any direction and after the glue dries you couldn’t budge the post if you tried to. I hate to think about the poor guy that has to demo it out someday and can’t figure out where the post is fastened. Lol
Your technique is nearly the proper, time-honored technique for correct newel post installation. Take the extra step of drilling a hole in the side of the newel, then thread a bolt onto that lag screw. It's close quarters to tighten down that bolt, but take your time. In the end you have a post that is mechanically fastened to the framing, the clear winner of all the work-arounds mentioned above. (TIP: they make fasteners called "dowel screws" for applications like this, so you don't have to cut the head off a bolt/screw.)
Nice… I use the screw trick on bottom of baseboard in the corners to keep them from rolling… Especially on old remodels…
I tape a piece of baseboard to my torpedo level and level the screw in the corners
Thanks for the videos Spencer, I have my first stair tread and handrail job and I have been binging your videos to prepare. Keep up the good work!
Same here!
I like the use of the levelling screws.
Fantastic man..nice to see another guy share his skills..
I just don't have the patience anymore to teach..i kind of like to turn the music on and enter my own magical world of frustration ..and suffer quietly hahaha
I had to come back and add this after reading others comments..it appears there are alot of us who like you channel..some mention starting a television show...hahahaha.
You know..Norm, and Tommy and getting up in yrs..its a good time to move in and take over this old house...hahahaha..
I loved the Mach 15 explanation! It is so true!
Best explanation I've ever seen on installing stair rails...
Nice work. I love how you made everything fit so well. Great instruction!
Love the videos! It’s fascinating the way we install in Canada vs you in the states
Nice! I've got a stair remodel coming up. You just showed a few techniques that was not familiar with. Thanks, man!
Thk U Spencer ! I don’t do stairs to much? However; when I need to I break out your video to freshen up !
Superb video Spencer! Absolutely have enjoyed ever vid I've seen since the beginning and great learning. Hope you have a perfect weekend!
really appreciate the videos, very high quality and you explain things well, I've learned so much, always look forward to your videos, thanks man
Your work is very impressive. Love to learn watching your videos. !!👍👍
Excellent video Spencer! They keep getting better all the time!
Man now that was some beautiful newel post installation right there
Absolutely amazing quality work. Thanks for sharing the details.
*Welcome Back* 🙌🏻
Very nice tip with the screws and glue
Awesome work Spence. You're an inspiration for sure!
Dang!! I love the rabbit truck! Definitely adding this to my solid post installs
The best on TH-cam, the only thing I would have done different is undercut the post 3/4 of inch
Excellent work. The screws/glue are a great tip. 👍
I really like that shoulder at the bottom of newel to cover rail shoe, I always bury my solid newels if there’s not two rim joists, but I’ve always installed them first then notched shoe rail around the newel mitering the two end ears turning the grain around the newel, skipped the middle and end newel,
I’ll adopt your method though I really like that!
Thanks!
Awesome finish Carpenter you do really good work
@13:38 You're not kidding about using a lot of PL Premium 😁 Another video filled with tips and tricks! TY
Looks nice. Glad my builder didn’t PL my bottom newel posts in place, had to pull them out to get the refrigerator through the narrow hall where the stairs meet the main floor. PL would’ve made for a real problem. :)
Haha. Mach 15. Such great information and quality work.
Great video. Wish it was around last week lol. Just had to do this for the first time then.
As always Spencer, Great work.
Thanks for sharing, explain and your Time Lewis. Very Great work !
Love the rabbet... Genius detail
Finally, I've been looking for info on installing newel posts through the floor for a long time. I'll be doing this in my house soon. And I'll be watching this video a few hundred more times :) measure twice cut once type deal. Watch a hundred times so you don't screw things up.
Great job and awesome video, very detailed. Thank You
How did it turn out?
Very awesome. Thanks for taking the time creating, and uploading all your videos.
As always, great video. Thank you!
what a great idea to use screws as shims
Impressive work! Thanks for sharing this
Awesome young craftsman
Liked all you did. Only change I would have put solid shims under the board instead of just the screws. Not that your way doesn’t work, that is just preference. There is always a different way to do things.
Well executed tutorial thank you.
Just learned about screw shims.
Would this technique also work for installing on the first stair tread?
💯👍🏼 great tutorial. I built a very similar assembly
The screw shim was genius
I like your job man
Thanks for sharing
I use the same technique.Well done.
Spencer - What was the width of the extended wood you notched out and put into hole? Looked like it was 1-1/2"? Is that post a 5"x5"? Thanks
Your the best I have seen
Could you show how you make the rabbet cuts on the newel posts? I made a post today like yours but I had to use a hand saw and coping saw to get nice cuts. My table saw fence is not the best and I had issues trying to use it to rabbet.
Have you tried bolting down the newel post with the newel post bolts?
how did you decide how far to go in on the bottom newel post? I use the screw idea a lot. Nice video.
Another great video! Thanks!
This has shown up in my feed at the right time 😃 fate!
I use the same screw shim method for pocket doors and all kinds of other things
Awesome video man.
Awesome...thanks Spencer!
We usually mortise and tennon the post on the stair string
Is it going to be carpet on the upper level? I see you already have some base installed upstairs. My question is how do you know where to end your skirtboard? I see that it's flush to the top of the subfloor. How do you plan to transition that to the baseboard?
There are no set rules. We get to use our creativity when doing stairs.
How to convert a 4 step entrance into the banisters that currently has a 4-foot toll square walls on both sides? Have you ever done such conversions? Many thanks for your priceless tips.
outstanding video! Very well
How would you remove these posts in a remodel? The PL glue will rip the joist up? Or is there a trick to dismantling this?
Thx so much I learned to much with you are you Awesome thx for you videos
Great work. Got a subscriber
Hey brother! Great job! What kind of saw did you use to make that rabbit cut? Could probably use a sawzall but I figured i would ask you. Thanks for your videos brother
Now that u shimmed up the shoe rail will the hardwood match up?
Great video as always, but i have to know where you acquired that bit holster on your dewalt impact!
Would the shoe plate shimmed up with screws create difference in height if hardwood floor is installed?
Ideally, the newel posts are not "top mounted" - meaning the face of the post is in line, or beyond, the edge of the nosing. This allows you to notch the posts around the floor system, then cut the nosing and fascia between the posts. If it's absolutely necessary to top mount solid newels, use PL and sure-tite newel fasteners. We've installed hundreds, maybe thousands of newels like this with no callbacks, and no mortising into the floor system.
I need to use sure tite bolts more. Thanks for the feedback!
Chase I agree I have used them for years. Usually put them in at an angle to grab the framing. Bend them straight up then drill holes out. Once locked down, solid.
Spencer Question with the install of the nosing shimmed up with screws you can’t run hardwood flooring. Seems you would have a lip. I’ll belt sand sub flooring to help level things out a bit. And glue straight to that.
Nice Atomic Impact Driver.
So there is a gap from the subfloor to the shoe kick plate. What do you do for that?
Wow. Nice job
great video again! did you make any video about how to make the frame and install for the angle corner stairs?