Thank you TM...well I will keep the best for myself...lol Actually I enjoyed teaching the apprentices at work and showing them the way to get things done. Thanks for watching. Gary
Yes that has been around for a very long time. I used something similar over 50 years ago. I can not recall the exact mix but I used it to do a French polish on a piece of furniture I made. Thanks for watching, Gary
That is a great finish. Your application is spot on. The origin of this finish is Cap'n Eddie Castelin and he attributes it to someone with the initials O.B. Cap'n Eddie refers to it as OB Shine Juice. And it is a great finish. There is one drawback in that if left unused for very long the alcohol evaporates. So the juice needs to be kept in a very tight container. However if it becomes obvious that some of the alcohol has evaporated it's easy to add a bit more. Thanks for sharing Papa. And please stay healthy. BTW that is a very nice little bowl.
Thank you Glen, I have heard about OB shine juice. But this does start in the 18th century with a mixture of shellac and alcohol. I did not use it back then though..lol But I did some hand rubbed finishes in the mid 1970's Not very many original ideas left but it is nice to play around with it. I have found that there are times I like it better when some of the alcohol has evaporated. Thanks again and be safe as well. Now we have more things to watch out for 😞 Gary
Woodcraft sells STOP LOSS BAGS for this evaporation problem. You fill them with your mixture. Squeeze out all the air and seal them. Then store in a refrigerator until needed. Shake b4 use. A little awkward to handle, but works very well.
Thank you Deborah. When I used it to show how I spray lacquer I figured soon or later I would finish it. This was a good way to do it. Thanks for watching, Gary
@@ThePapa1947 thanks bud my lathe should be here this week maybe beginning of next I can start having a crack then I'll post you a pic when I've done something
You do such beautiful work, Gary. Now you’ve given away another one of your secrets. Keep it up and the rest of us will be able to do it, too!! 😃😃😃 Thanks for sharing, Gary! Happy turning, .....Gord
Thank you very much Gord I certainly did not come up with the original .Sharing is always nice...maybe if I give away all the secrets I can go on vacation..Wait I am on vacation..it's called retirement..lol Take care, Gary
Cracking finish! Have always made my own shine juice, light and dark shellac flakes to suit the wood colour. As time has passed, I'm learning different wood prefers a different final finish. Today for example, an English Ash pot with a knob on the lid from Yew, only needed 1 sanding sealer coat, and 3 coats of wax for a lovely finish. Thanks for sharing as always.
Thank you Peter I appreciate you watching and commenting. I look at each piece and try to pick the finish to match the wood and the shape.There are lots of choices and I like them all. Take care, Gary
Yup, it’s just OB shine juice. I don’t like using linseed oil in the shop because of its Combustibility so I use walnut oil instead with great results.
I suppose it is but it is also a french polish. I first heard it called friction polish in a Sawmill Creek forum so that is stuck in my head. Thanks for watcing.
You mentioned adding this to flat wood without a lathe. Can you tell me that process? I would love to know that process too. Loved this video as well. Thank you
Hello from France. Thanks for this video. I use the same recipe as you, on the other hand when I put the shellac on the wood it shines a lot, but when I polish by rotating I lose shine. do you know where the problem can come from? THANKS
I usually get a very nice finish from the friction polish. But what I will use is the Acts Sanding Paste and the Acks Polishing Paste afterwards. What are you using for the polish?
@@ThePapa1947 Good morning, I sand the piece of wood down to 600 grit, spray with alcohol and sand again. I put two coats of diluted shellac and I sand lightly and finally I put 2 or 3 coats of friction polish. When I put the friction polish the shine is very intense but when I polish with the wheel in rotation, the shine fades.
Perhaps it is not dried long enough. Or maybe the polish and wheels are not fine enough. If you have a nice shine after the friction polish why are you even using the buffing wheels?
@@ThePapa1947 I use friction polish because I'm afraid the piece of wood will get sticky with the linseed oil. I will do other tests. Thank you for your answers. If I find a solution, I'll post it here. Thanks again.👍
The solution is very easy. If you are looking to get a nice deep lasting shine then use lacquer. Friction polish is a nice quick method but I use lacquer for a very nice and lasting finish. You can also use Minwax Polycrylic or Minwax wipe on poly. I very seldom us friction polish .
I am a subscriber and enjoy all the beautiful pieces that you create. This video on friction polish was very informative. Since I make my own shellac, what pound cut would you recommend I use when mixing the one part shellac, one part boiled linseed oil, and one part denatured alcohol?
I made some of that finish a few years ago but didn't like how it turned out, for me. Watching your video, I think I probably pressed too hard. I'll give it another go and see if I can get that Papa shine on my stuff! Thanks, Gary!
Thanks Phil, I do not use it all that much but I like it on small spindle turnings. But I do favor using shellac by itself for a lot of things. Tomorrow is Thursday...Yippee I can't wait to see what you come up with. See you then! Gary
Hi Gary, Thanks for once again sharing your knowledge and experience. You certainly have a mixed bag of responses in the comments. Your true subscribers realise that there are many variations of this finish available, both commercially bought and homemade. I was taught by my father that if you can make it why buy it? Once my stock of shop-bought finishes are gone I will be making my own as far as possible. Great video Gary. Take care my friend. Cheers, Huw
Thank you Huw! This finish has been around in one form or another for a few century's. I certainly do not take credit for coming up with it. But I know this particular one comes from a forum dated 2011. I just showed how I make and use it. Thanks for watching, Gary
Thank you Nathan and the shellac is the finish you are putting on so if you substituted it would become a wax finish. If I was making that I would just use mineral oil and carnauba wax. I use mineral oil and beeswax. Thanks for watching. Gary
When do you use shellac versus lacquer for a finish. And do you ever use Ack’s abrasive paste BEFORE putting on the final finish? What I learned is that it takes several coats of this finish to get the final gloss that you are looking for. Thanks
I generally use shellac on a natural turning from a piece of a log. Most segmented work I will use lacquer or Polycrylic. I may use it both on anything but most of the time it is like I said. I have only used the Acks before the finish if I am using a friction polish. And yes it takes a number of coats to get a deep gloss. Thanks for watching, Gary
@@ThePapa1947 It appears that both the lacquer and polycrylic finishes come out very smooth to begin with from watching your other videos. I am surprised that you need the abrasive paste and polish after the finish. My problem with spray lacquer is the VOCs. I don't have a paint booth in my small shop and the odor is just overwhelming to me. But for small spindle turnings it seems that friction polish is the best. I also don't understand the use of a sanding sealer if an abrasive paste is applied before the final finish. I enjoy your videos greatly and have learned a lot. Finishing to me is just as difficult as the turning part!!! Regards, Steve.
Какое чудо Гари это масло ..Для меня это очень интересная тема .К сожалению я не имею возможности найти все это у себя и приходится обходится тем что есть не по назначению ! спасибо это было полезно !!!
You asked about food safe. Shellac is applied to M&M’s and other candies of that nature. The DNA gases off, but a different alcohol that is more “food safe” could remove any worry. As for the BLO, the same thing goes for it as does the DNA. Mahoney’s Walnut oil comes to mind.
Thank you Doug. I know M&M's are covered with shellac. Also most finishes are said to be food safe after all the gases are gone. The Walnut oil sounds like a good option. Also mixing your own shellac is supposed to be better. Mineral oil has been used in French Polish but it never drys or drys very slow. I did not like how it used. If I was going to use it for food safe I would look into all of that. Thanks for the tips. Gary
ThePapa1947 I thought you probably knew about shellac, but I’m amazed how many people don’t. I mentioned it not long ago and you would have thought I was suggesting they eat rat poison. They may have even mentioned rat poison. Regardless, you continue doing good work. Ive enjoyed watching your videos.
Thank you Doug..Rat poison! That's a good one 🤣 When it comes to finishes there are lots of opinions. General Finishes makes a Salad Bowl finish that is polyurethane. My local wood workers store claims it is thinned down poly. I have no idea on that but I know it is polyurethane which is not supposed to be food safe. So I do not make recommendations on what is and what is not food safe. I do have a dilemma though. I am making something I might make a cookie jar. I most likely will use lacquer on the outside and I have though of walnut oil for the inside. Or perhaps the salad bowl finish. But I could try the Mahoney and ever clear mixed with the Seal Coat. Or maybe it will not be a cookie jar. Gary
Thanks for sharing, very informative and beautiful finish. Will this darken a lighter wood or stay clear? Will it yellow over time? What % denatured alcohol? Lastly, is this a proper finish for functional pieces that are handled a few times a week like say a box? Sorry for the Q's, just need to know.
Thank you for watching. So you use 1/3 of each. Shellac, denatured alcohol and boiled linseed oil. It will give a slight tint to a very light wood and your are basically putting on a shellac finish. This is based on the French polish method. I find it just fine to handle. If you want something that will not tint the wood you might want to try Polycrylic. It is water based and dries very fast. I have a video on how I do it plus if you look up my recent Vortex bowl I used it there. Thanks for watching, Gary th-cam.com/video/QOFYnzePKSU/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=ThePapa1947 th-cam.com/video/sodQISh5DDs/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=ThePapa1947
If your using this to finish a bowl that will be food safe can you simply apply this multiple times and get a finish or is it necessary to use another type of finish before applying this
When I use this that is all I use. I might put 3-6 applications. It goes on fast and dries very fast. I hardly make anything for food use though. Thanks for watching, Gary
Thanks for the demo Gary, like others I have been using that for a while but with poor results this should help improve my finish. How long does it usually take your sanding sealer to dry, I understand it varies with the conditions, but the one I have says to allow 24hours which seems a bit excessive for someone as impatient as me. Just discovered your channel subscribed etc. and am thoroughly enjoying watching and learning, thanks for taking the time.
Thank you Steve and thanks for the subscription. So the shellac sanding sealer drys very fast. This time of year I can sand within half an hour. But the way I put it on I use scotch brite or 0000- steel wool. If sanding is needed I could sand in that amount of time as well. If I put 3 coats of sealer I might wait a little longer. I have the same results with lacquer sanding sealer. Cold weather adds some time but not that much. I use the Zinserr Seal Coat which is shellac. And it is wax free. You do not want to mix their shellac with alcohol to make your own because it is waxed. But there shellac is great as well. What sealer are you using? Let me know if you have any other questions...happy to try and answer. Gary
ThePapa1947 No worries and thanks for the reply. I uses Feast and Watson that I bought from, I think you call, a big box store. Now I know how you do it I’ll try again with the Ubeaut sealer, we’ve hit winter over here, Melbourne Aus, as you say it’ll slow it all down a bit. Thanks again for the reply, I appreciate it. Cheers Steve H.
I used to use this polish as my go-to finish but recently have been using Ack's compounds. Have you used Ack's in combination with your polish? If so what went on first?
I have never tried Acks but I do use an Abrasive Paste I make and a polishing paste as well. I have done it both ways as well. But I usually put a sander sealer on first either way. Maybe I will win one of the Acks giveaways and then try it. Actually I should buy a kit and help him out. I will put that on my list. Take care Tom, Gary
Gary, was wondering. Do you always use this as your go to finish? Or do you use others also? And is the lifespan of this enduring? Thanks, i use this and other times i use Triple EEE after Yorkshire grit.
Hi Uncle Moe, It is down on the list as to my favorites. Shellac and Lacquer are probably my favorites but Wipe on Poly is right up there. I use the friction polish on small pieces such as the lid on my last turning. The friction polish seems to last just fine. You are just putting down shellac in a simple fashion. I use my abrasive paste over the top of most of them. Take care, Gary
Great video Gary. This is the best way to pass woodworking knowledge to the next generation by us old folk😁 I learned from my father who learned from someone's father and so on. What was in your Sanding Sealer ? And why is it a good thing ? Stay safe. -Mike👴
Thanks Mike! Yes passing on information is a great thing for sure. I trained a few apprentices in my time and even after I retired have been told by them that they appreciated the tricks I showed them. The sanding sealer was just plain old Zinsser SealCoat. I like a sealer to be put on so it goes down into the grain. This seals it and if the grain is going to raise it is better to be able to sand it down before applying the finish.Sometimes one coat will do but if not I put it on to the point I figure that not much of the friction polish will be soaking into the wood. I use it under straight shellac the same way. Take care, Gary
I went to the local hardware store to get some Shellac and thought I'd get some denatured alcohol as my shine juice is low. Turns out you can't buy denatured alcohol here in California anymore. I will have to check at a drug store hopefully the can still sell it.
Hi Tom..I did hear that about the denatured alcohol. Was you able to get the shellac? How about the stove fuel alcohol? It seems to be the same stuff but I am not 100% certain on that. Good lucking finding what you need. Gary
@@ThePapa1947 I had to order Shellac, alcohol stove fuel was a no also. They had a 5 gallon bucket of denatured alcohol but couldn't sell a drop of it. I ordered some from Amazon for $4 hopefully it will make it.
I saw it at Sawmill Creek forum. Circa 2011. Not sure where it may have started but I do know a form of this has been around since the 18th century. Might be interesting to see who first came up with it. I just looked up the Shine Juice and see a reference to OB Shine juice so yes it does sound the same. Thanks for watching, Gary
I think it has been done many times. I saw it in this 2013 article: www.woodworkingtalk.com/f6/home-made-friction-polish-47840/ But it dates back way before that. Derived from the use of shellac as a french polish.
The amount of alcohol isn't all that critical. So if some evaporates adding some more won't effect the quality of the finish one iota. However a little to much is better than too little.
I am not sure if any of these products are considered food safe. I always suggest looking into what you use to make sure. I do not use this finish on things for food use. This finishing method comes from using the French polish method for furniture. Hope this helps.
Squeeze bottles like those polyethylene ones you would buy at Harbor freight should not be used to store this polishing compound. The denatured alcohol will evaporate though it over time and the bottle will collapse in on itself. Instead, use a bottle that soda pop comes in to store the polish. Or a mason jar works well too and store upside down on the shelf. However, if you do store the polish in a polyethylene bottle, mark the level of the polish on the side of the bottle with a piece of tape or Sharpie pen after each use. When you come back to it later for use , notice the level on the side of the bottle and just fill with denatured alcohol up the mark you previously placed on the bottle. Shake and use after that. Remark level after every use and follow instructions for subsequent uses.
Thanks for the great tips! Not sure what this one is made of but it does not seem to loose the alcohol. But I usually only mix one Dixie cup of each at a time. I will try a soda pop bottle one some as I do mix some at a different ratio. My luck with glass is not very good. Seems to turn into small pieces when I drop it. Which I just did yesterday with some abrasive paste. Thanks again, Gary
Thank You Gary....But Gary U R giving away all your secret stuff...much appreciated....TM
Thank you TM...well I will keep the best for myself...lol
Actually I enjoyed teaching the apprentices at work and showing them the way to get things done.
Thanks for watching.
Gary
@@ThePapa1947,
ONE'S WHO CLAIM CREDIT AS THEIR OWN NEVER TRULY EXPERIENCES IT!!!
@@ridterranytofollowtruthpea8324 very true
We've been using that formula for the last 50 years or so for lathe projects required by our beginning furniture design classes. Excellent video!
Yes that has been around for a very long time. I used something similar over 50 years ago. I can not recall the exact mix but I used it to do a French polish on a piece of furniture I made.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
That is a great finish. Your application is spot on. The origin of this finish is Cap'n Eddie Castelin and he attributes it to someone with the initials O.B. Cap'n Eddie refers to it as OB Shine Juice. And it is a great finish. There is one drawback in that if left unused for very long the alcohol evaporates. So the juice needs to be kept in a very tight container. However if it becomes obvious that some of the alcohol has evaporated it's easy to add a bit more. Thanks for sharing Papa. And please stay healthy. BTW that is a very nice little bowl.
Thank you Glen,
I have heard about OB shine juice.
But this does start in the 18th century with a mixture of shellac and alcohol. I did not use it back then though..lol
But I did some hand rubbed finishes in the mid 1970's
Not very many original ideas left but it is nice to play around with it.
I have found that there are times I like it better when some of the alcohol has evaporated.
Thanks again and be safe as well. Now we have more things to watch out for 😞
Gary
YES SIR REE, CAPTAIN EDDIE IS A LEGEND!!! HE'S SHARED SO MUCH GREAT WOOD TURNING INFO OVER MANY YEARS!!!!
Woodcraft sells STOP LOSS BAGS for this evaporation problem. You fill them with your mixture. Squeeze out all the air and seal them. Then store in a refrigerator until needed. Shake b4 use. A little awkward to handle, but works very well.
That is one beautiful piece of Walnut and your finish makes it shine bright.
Thank you Deborah. When I used it to show how I spray lacquer I figured soon or later I would finish it. This was a good way to do it.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Thanks Gary, much simpler than I thought it would be
Take care Bram
Thank you Bram...simple is what I like.
Take care,
Gary
Now I understand what o.b. shine juice is. Thanks again for your wonderful video Gary. Have a wonderful week. Stay frosty and safe.
Thank your Richard glad you understand it now.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Easy recipe that gives a nice finish
Yes very easy! Thanks for watching Les,
Gary
Perfect Gary.. looks great .. you seem very innovative. I prefer using this to serve wrapped candies and chocolates. 👏👏
Thank you very much. And that would be a great use for it.
Thanks for watching!
Gary
nice one Gary great tutorial again cant wait to try this thanks
Thank you Jason...you will like using it.
Take care,
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 thanks bud my lathe should be here this week maybe beginning of next I can start having a crack then I'll post you a pic when I've done something
Thanks Gary. Excellent video. Thank you for sharing your technique and skills with us.
RP
Thank you very much!
Thank You Gary.That is a great finish.
Thank you Dave. It is very simple to do for sure.
Glad you liked it.
Cheers,
Gary
Hi Gary...great informative video as always...lovely finish on the bowl... take care...All the best.....Andy
Thanks Andy glad you liked it.
Cheers,
Gary
You do such beautiful work, Gary. Now you’ve given away another one of your secrets. Keep it up and the rest of us will be able to do it, too!! 😃😃😃
Thanks for sharing, Gary!
Happy turning,
.....Gord
Thank you very much Gord I certainly did not come up with the original .Sharing is always nice...maybe if I give away all the secrets I can go on vacation..Wait I am on vacation..it's called retirement..lol
Take care,
Gary
Thank you Gary, as always appreciate you passing down some valuable irreplaceable knowledge.
Thank you very much Michael!
Take care,
Gary
Thank You! You just saved me a lot of money as I have been buying friction polish and it is getting quite expensive
Good to hear Wade. I make many things just to save money but it is also fun.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Gary
Thank you, Gary, I am going to make some the first thing in the mourning.
Thank you Don. I think you will like how it works.
Gary
thanks a lot，the information is so useful，👍👍👍
Thank you very much!
Gorgeous finish!👍
Thank you very much Wanda!
thanks for the tip, Gary. I will make some.
Thank you Damiano! It is another nice option.
Gary
Amazing job...
Thank you very much!
Cracking finish! Have always made my own shine juice, light and dark shellac flakes to suit the wood colour. As time has passed, I'm learning different wood prefers a different final finish. Today for example, an English Ash pot with a knob on the lid from Yew, only needed 1 sanding sealer coat, and 3 coats of wax for a lovely finish. Thanks for sharing as always.
Thank you Peter I appreciate you watching and commenting.
I look at each piece and try to pick the finish to match the wood and the shape.There are lots of choices and I like them all.
Take care,
Gary
Yup, it’s just OB shine juice. I don’t like using linseed oil in the shop because of its Combustibility so I use walnut oil instead with great results.
I suppose it is but it is also a french polish.
I first heard it called friction polish in a Sawmill Creek forum so that is stuck in my head.
Thanks for watcing.
You mentioned adding this to flat wood without a lathe. Can you tell me that process? I would love to know that process too. Loved this video as well. Thank you
Thank you Denis!
Great Channel I wish I live near you so I can learn a lot from you Directly keep up the good work God bless you from where Puerto Rico
Thank you very much and God Bless you as well.
Gary
Отличный результат. Супер. Лайк от друга.
Большое спасибо, мой друг!
Gary
Great video Gary.
Thank you John glad you liked it.
Take care my friend,
Gary
Great video showing a great finish. I love how this stuff works!
Thank you Carol! It really does a great job. And I do like it on smaller spindles.
Gary
Hello from France. Thanks for this video. I use the same recipe as you, on the other hand when I put the shellac on the wood it shines a lot, but when I polish by rotating I lose shine. do you know where the problem can come from? THANKS
I usually get a very nice finish from the friction polish. But what I will use is the Acts Sanding Paste and the Acks Polishing Paste afterwards.
What are you using for the polish?
@@ThePapa1947 Good morning, I sand the piece of wood down to 600 grit, spray with alcohol and sand again. I put two coats of diluted shellac and I sand lightly and finally I put 2 or 3 coats of friction polish. When I put the friction polish the shine is very intense but when I polish with the wheel in rotation, the shine fades.
Perhaps it is not dried long enough. Or maybe the polish and wheels are not fine enough. If you have a nice shine after the friction polish why are you even using the buffing wheels?
@@ThePapa1947 I use friction polish because I'm afraid the piece of wood will get sticky with the linseed oil. I will do other tests. Thank you for your answers. If I find a solution, I'll post it here. Thanks again.👍
The solution is very easy. If you are looking to get a nice deep lasting shine then use lacquer. Friction polish is a nice quick method but I use lacquer for a very nice and lasting finish. You can also use Minwax Polycrylic or Minwax wipe on poly. I very seldom us friction polish .
I am a subscriber and enjoy all the beautiful pieces that you create. This video on friction polish was very informative. Since I make my own shellac, what pound cut would you recommend I use when mixing the one part shellac, one part boiled linseed oil, and one part denatured alcohol?
Thank you very much. I do not mix up my on shellac. Based on what I use I would try 2# or 3#
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Thank you for this!!!!!! That is a beautiful bowl!!!
Glad you like it! And thanks for watching.
Gary
I made some of that finish a few years ago but didn't like how it turned out, for me. Watching your video, I think I probably pressed too hard. I'll give it another go and see if I can get that Papa shine on my stuff! Thanks, Gary!
Thanks Phil, I do not use it all that much but I like it on small spindle turnings. But I do favor using shellac by itself for a lot of things.
Tomorrow is Thursday...Yippee I can't wait to see what you come up with.
See you then!
Gary
Hi Gary, Thanks for once again sharing your knowledge and experience. You certainly have a mixed bag of responses in the comments. Your true subscribers realise that there are many variations of this finish available, both commercially bought and homemade. I was taught by my father that if you can make it why buy it? Once my stock of shop-bought finishes are gone I will be making my own as far as possible. Great video Gary. Take care my friend. Cheers, Huw
Thank you Huw! This finish has been around in one form or another for a few century's. I certainly do not take credit for coming up with it. But I know this particular one comes from a forum dated 2011.
I just showed how I make and use it.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Thanks for the tutorial. Can you substitute the shellac with carnauba wax?
Thank you Nathan and the shellac is the finish you are putting on so if you substituted it would become a wax finish. If I was making that I would just use mineral oil and carnauba wax.
I use mineral oil and beeswax.
Thanks for watching.
Gary
When do you use shellac versus lacquer for a finish. And do you ever use Ack’s abrasive paste BEFORE putting on the final finish? What I learned is that it takes several coats of this finish to get the final gloss that you are looking for. Thanks
I generally use shellac on a natural turning from a piece of a log. Most segmented work I will use lacquer or Polycrylic. I may use it both on anything but most of the time it is like I said.
I have only used the Acks before the finish if I am using a friction polish.
And yes it takes a number of coats to get a deep gloss.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 It appears that both the lacquer and polycrylic finishes come out very smooth to begin with from watching your other videos. I am surprised that you need the abrasive paste and polish after the finish. My problem with spray lacquer is the VOCs. I don't have a paint booth in my small shop and the odor is just overwhelming to me. But for small spindle turnings it seems that friction polish is the best. I also don't understand the use of a sanding sealer if an abrasive paste is applied before the final finish. I enjoy your videos greatly and have learned a lot. Finishing to me is just as difficult as the turning part!!! Regards, Steve.
Какое чудо Гари это масло ..Для меня это очень интересная тема .К сожалению я не имею возможности найти все это у себя и приходится обходится тем что есть не по назначению ! спасибо это было полезно !!!
Ali
Большое спасибо. Я надеюсь, что у вас есть доступ к некоторым отличным результатам.
Береги себя,
Gary
Thank you!
You're welcome! And thank you Melissa,
Gary
You asked about food safe. Shellac is applied to M&M’s and other candies of that nature. The DNA gases off, but a different alcohol that is more “food safe” could remove any worry. As for the BLO, the same thing goes for it as does the DNA. Mahoney’s Walnut oil comes to mind.
Thank you Doug. I know M&M's are covered with shellac.
Also most finishes are said to be food safe after all the gases are gone.
The Walnut oil sounds like a good option. Also mixing your own shellac is supposed to be better. Mineral oil has been used in French Polish but it never drys or drys very slow. I did not like how it used.
If I was going to use it for food safe I would look into all of that.
Thanks for the tips.
Gary
ThePapa1947 I thought you probably knew about shellac, but I’m amazed how many people don’t. I mentioned it not long ago and you would have thought I was suggesting they eat rat poison. They may have even mentioned rat poison. Regardless, you continue doing good work. Ive enjoyed watching your videos.
Thank you Doug..Rat poison! That's a good one 🤣
When it comes to finishes there are lots of opinions.
General Finishes makes a Salad Bowl finish that is polyurethane.
My local wood workers store claims it is thinned down poly.
I have no idea on that but I know it is polyurethane which is not supposed to be food safe.
So I do not make recommendations on what is and what is not food safe.
I do have a dilemma though. I am making something I might make a cookie jar. I most likely will use lacquer on the outside and I have though of walnut oil for the inside. Or perhaps the salad bowl finish. But I could try the Mahoney and ever clear mixed with the Seal Coat. Or maybe it will not be a cookie jar.
Gary
Thanks for sharing, very informative and beautiful finish. Will this darken a lighter wood or stay clear? Will it yellow over time? What % denatured alcohol? Lastly, is this a proper finish for functional pieces that are handled a few times a week like say a box? Sorry for the Q's, just need to know.
Thank you for watching.
So you use 1/3 of each. Shellac, denatured alcohol and boiled linseed oil.
It will give a slight tint to a very light wood and your are basically putting on a shellac finish. This is based on the French polish method.
I find it just fine to handle.
If you want something that will not tint the wood you might want to try Polycrylic. It is water based and dries very fast.
I have a video on how I do it plus if you look up my recent Vortex bowl I used it there.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
th-cam.com/video/QOFYnzePKSU/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=ThePapa1947
th-cam.com/video/sodQISh5DDs/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=ThePapa1947
@@ThePapa1947 Unfortunately we cannot get denatured alcohol in CA. Can isopropyl rated at 91% be used instead?
@@Oakydokes can you get stove fuel? Like camp stoves. Same stuff.
@@ThePapa1947 Thanks. they have what's known as "White Gas Camp Fuel" here.
@@Oakydokes last stuff I bought said fuel on it and it was with the paint thinner and lacquer thinner. Said alcohol on it and it works the same.
Gary, how long between coats?
Hi Anthony,
Most of the time you can put it on after you have applied a coat. The heat generated will dry it very fast.
Gary
If your using this to finish a bowl that will be food safe can you simply apply this multiple times and get a finish or is it necessary to use another type of finish before applying this
When I use this that is all I use. I might put 3-6 applications. It goes on fast and dries very fast.
I hardly make anything for food use though.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Shellac and linseed oil are food safe. Shellac is used in many food products.
Yes they put shellac on M&M's. Or I know they used to.
Thanks for watching Rand .
Gary
Thanks for the demo Gary, like others I have been using that for a while but with poor results this should help improve my finish. How long does it usually take your sanding sealer to dry, I understand it varies with the conditions, but the one I have says to allow 24hours which seems a bit excessive for someone as impatient as me. Just discovered your channel subscribed etc. and am thoroughly enjoying watching and learning, thanks for taking the time.
Thank you Steve and thanks for the subscription.
So the shellac sanding sealer drys very fast. This time of year I can sand within half an hour. But the way I put it on I use scotch brite or 0000- steel wool. If sanding is needed I could sand in that amount of time as well. If I put 3 coats of sealer I might wait a little longer. I have the same results with lacquer sanding sealer. Cold weather adds some time but not that much.
I use the Zinserr Seal Coat which is shellac. And it is wax free. You do not want to mix their shellac with alcohol to make your own because it is waxed. But there shellac is great as well.
What sealer are you using?
Let me know if you have any other questions...happy to try and answer.
Gary
ThePapa1947 No worries and thanks for the reply. I uses Feast and Watson that I bought from, I think you call, a big box store. Now I know how you do it I’ll try again with the Ubeaut sealer, we’ve hit winter over here, Melbourne Aus, as you say it’ll slow it all down a bit. Thanks again for the reply, I appreciate it. Cheers Steve H.
I used to use this polish as my go-to finish but recently have been using Ack's compounds. Have you used Ack's in combination with your polish? If so what went on first?
acks, both types, then OB shine is how I do it
I have never tried Acks but I do use an Abrasive Paste I make and a polishing paste as well.
I have done it both ways as well. But I usually put a sander sealer on first either way.
Maybe I will win one of the Acks giveaways and then try it.
Actually I should buy a kit and help him out. I will put that on my list.
Take care Tom,
Gary
Gary, was wondering. Do you always use this as your go to finish? Or do you use others also? And is the lifespan of this enduring? Thanks, i use this and other times i use Triple EEE after Yorkshire grit.
Hi Uncle Moe, It is down on the list as to my favorites. Shellac and Lacquer are probably my favorites but Wipe on Poly is right up there. I use the friction polish on small pieces such as the lid on my last turning.
The friction polish seems to last just fine. You are just putting down shellac in a simple fashion.
I use my abrasive paste over the top of most of them.
Take care,
Gary
Great video Gary. This is the best way to pass woodworking knowledge to the next generation by us old folk😁 I learned from my father who learned from someone's father and so on. What was in your Sanding Sealer ? And why is it a good thing ? Stay safe. -Mike👴
Thanks Mike!
Yes passing on information is a great thing for sure. I trained a few apprentices in my time and even after I retired have been told by them that they appreciated the tricks I showed them.
The sanding sealer was just plain old Zinsser SealCoat. I like a sealer to be put on so it goes down into the grain. This seals it and if the grain is going to raise it is better to be able to sand it down before applying the finish.Sometimes one coat will do but if not I put it on to the point I figure that not much of the friction polish will be soaking into the wood. I use it under straight shellac the same way.
Take care,
Gary
I went to the local hardware store to get some Shellac and thought I'd get some denatured alcohol as my shine juice is low. Turns out you can't buy denatured alcohol here in California anymore. I will have to check at a drug store hopefully the can still sell it.
Hi Tom..I did hear that about the denatured alcohol. Was you able to get the shellac? How about the stove fuel alcohol?
It seems to be the same stuff but I am not 100% certain on that.
Good lucking finding what you need.
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 I had to order Shellac, alcohol stove fuel was a no also. They had a 5 gallon bucket of denatured alcohol but couldn't sell a drop of it. I ordered some from Amazon for $4 hopefully it will make it.
Sounds like Capt Eddie's Shine Juice!
I saw it at Sawmill Creek forum. Circa 2011. Not sure where it may have started but I do know a form of this has been around since the 18th century. Might be interesting to see who first came up with it.
I just looked up the Shine Juice and see a reference to OB Shine juice so yes it does sound the same.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Cot Eddie did this years ago!
I think it has been done many times. I saw it in this 2013 article:
www.woodworkingtalk.com/f6/home-made-friction-polish-47840/
But it dates back way before that. Derived from the use of shellac as a french polish.
Is it food safe?
My understanding is boiled linseed oil is not safe. So based on that I would say it is not.
Like.this
Thank you!
The amount of alcohol isn't all that critical. So if some evaporates adding some more won't effect the quality of the finish one iota. However a little to much is better than too little.
Yes you are correct about that.
is this alcohol foodsafe?
I am not sure if any of these products are considered food safe. I always suggest looking into what you use to make sure.
I do not use this finish on things for food use.
This finishing method comes from using the French polish method for furniture.
Hope this helps.
@@ThePapa1947 i think bowls should be finished with food safe : /
Squeeze bottles like those polyethylene ones you would buy at Harbor freight should not be used to store this polishing compound. The denatured alcohol will evaporate though it over time and the bottle will collapse in on itself. Instead, use a bottle that soda pop comes in to store the polish. Or a mason jar works well too and store upside down on the shelf.
However, if you do store the polish in a polyethylene bottle, mark the level of the polish on the side of the bottle with a piece of tape or Sharpie pen after each use. When you come back to it later for use , notice the level on the side of the bottle and just fill with denatured alcohol up the mark you previously placed on the bottle. Shake and use after that. Remark level after every use and follow instructions for subsequent uses.
Thanks for the great tips! Not sure what this one is made of but it does not seem to loose the alcohol. But I usually only mix one Dixie cup of each at a time.
I will try a soda pop bottle one some as I do mix some at a different ratio.
My luck with glass is not very good. Seems to turn into small pieces when I drop it. Which I just did yesterday with some abrasive paste.
Thanks again,
Gary
Wood daiquiri...
Thank you...that is a great term for it.
Gary
Fifth.
Thank you