Great, glad you liked. There are a couple of other buliders doing a separate crossbar retrofit instead of re-printing the entire dome. Check out the facebook group.
cool. I'm doing my BB8 , version hamster, and I'd like to modify my dome to this system... do you have video or build log with inside body details ? i'd like to see the servo mechanism that turn the magnets inside the body. Thanks.
Nevermind, I I see which one you used. I was originally looking at the Dayton Audio one. Dayton Audio TT25-8 PUCK Tactile Transducer Mini Bass Shaker 8 Ohm (Black) www.amazon.com/dp/B009RGJ47S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZR7dzbJ3740MB
Hi Michael, I used the 4.1v MrRC Sound TT-25 Sound Transducer. I have a link to it on my project page which you can see here: patrickstefanski.com/bb8head
Thanks Robert. I'm using a Lulzbot Taz5 currently. The taz is definitely capable of high quality prints, but I tend to print "quick and dirty" and make it look pretty in the finishing process (sanding and painting). The Taz is especially great because it has a fairly large print bed which is helpful for larger projects like this.
I wouldn't be able to do that without adding some structure between, which I then wouldn't be able to test out without reprinting. Angelo Cavallo is another builder who has done a lot of work on reducing weight in the skirt/ring. I would suggest downloading his models (available through a FB group search) or getting in touch with him. His file are split into 1/4ths I belive with all the sidewalls necessary for joining the pieces together. His ring/skirt will work perfectly with this setup.
I uploaded just the crossbar to the github linked in the description. You can probably slip it in from the bottom and orient it. At that point you can glue it. This may result in a slight height discrepancy which can be fixed by appropriately scaling the Spacer piece along the Z axis in your slicer program. Might take a few tries to get the scaling right, but that's half the fun, right? I've never tried this method though, so I can vouch for it's success. Sounds good on paper though, good luck!
I guess it depends on your goals. If you're just looking for a static droid that doesn't move, then yes, tape is a good option. It you want it to be able to glide over the surface of the ball, you should probably think magnets. !
Could you upload some of your print settings? I know weight is important. For example, how many layers? Fill? Any other settings which may be useful. Thanks! I'm using Simplify3D.
Hi Michael. The aesthetic pieces (Dome, Skirt, Dome Top) were all 2 perimeters and incredibly low infill (I believe it was 5%, not much space between the walls anyway). My bottom and top layers are usually set to 2 as well. This may then require some post work, for example I had to use some putty to cover some light cover on my top layers specifically on the main dome piece, but nothing major. For the structural pieces I did 3 perimeters and 35% infill. The tires are are done at 50% Semiflex, and the smaller caster pieces are done with 3 perimeters as low a lower infill (15%). I'll update the webpage with this information. Use these as a guide, but see what you can get away with on shaving off weight. It's all about the light dome.
Yeah. Some parts require supports. AESTHETICS: The Dome requires supports under the crossbar only, no supports needed on the skirt or dome topper. STRUCTURAL: The spindle arms require supports under the dovetail, nothing on the spindle hub. Nothing on the casters requires supports.
Where can I buy or could sell me: Round Spacer, Nylon, Off-White, M3 Screw Size, 6.2mm OD, 3.1mm ID, 7mm Length. Amazon has it on back order since Oct 31st
I really wish I had a 3d printer... The files..... The skill... And everything else... Amazing!
Very nice work!
Thanks Dave
thank you for this great contribution! I think I will reprint my head soon :)
Great, glad you liked. There are a couple of other buliders doing a separate crossbar retrofit instead of re-printing the entire dome. Check out the facebook group.
Very nice, thanks for sharing.
Thanks Clinton!
cool. I'm doing my BB8 , version hamster, and I'd like to modify my dome to this system... do you have video or build log with inside body details ? i'd like to see the servo mechanism that turn the magnets inside the body. Thanks.
Did you use the 8 ohm or 16 ohm transducer? Thanks! I really appreciate you taking the time and energy to share this great build.
Nevermind, I I see which one you used. I was originally looking at the Dayton Audio one. Dayton Audio TT25-8 PUCK Tactile Transducer Mini Bass Shaker 8 Ohm (Black) www.amazon.com/dp/B009RGJ47S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZR7dzbJ3740MB
Hi Michael, I used the 4.1v MrRC Sound TT-25 Sound Transducer. I have a link to it on my project page which you can see here: patrickstefanski.com/bb8head
This is awesome work! Thanks for stepping us through all your steps :) very helpful. Which 3D printer do you use? The print quality looks really good.
Thanks Robert. I'm using a Lulzbot Taz5 currently. The taz is definitely capable of high quality prints, but I tend to print "quick and dirty" and make it look pretty in the finishing process (sanding and painting). The Taz is especially great because it has a fairly large print bed which is helpful for larger projects like this.
This looks great. Is there any way you can divide the dome and skirt into thirds for people who have smaller print beds?
I wouldn't be able to do that without adding some structure between, which I then wouldn't be able to test out without reprinting. Angelo Cavallo is another builder who has done a lot of work on reducing weight in the skirt/ring. I would suggest downloading his models (available through a FB group search) or getting in touch with him. His file are split into 1/4ths I belive with all the sidewalls necessary for joining the pieces together. His ring/skirt will work perfectly with this setup.
Is there a way this system could be connected to an existing one piece dome?
I uploaded just the crossbar to the github linked in the description. You can probably slip it in from the bottom and orient it. At that point you can glue it. This may result in a slight height discrepancy which can be fixed by appropriately scaling the Spacer piece along the Z axis in your slicer program. Might take a few tries to get the scaling right, but that's half the fun, right? I've never tried this method though, so I can vouch for it's success. Sounds good on paper though, good luck!
Hi sir. What is the size of the head diameter in mm or inc? Thank you
285mm
@@PatchBOTS thank you sir
How did you make the dome stay together? I wanted to make one for more then a year!
it's partly screwed, partly glued and some magnets. Lots off different forces awakeneed
@@PatchBOTS Im thinking of using clear tape will it hold on? And bte nice the force awakens refrence
I guess it depends on your goals. If you're just looking for a static droid that doesn't move, then yes, tape is a good option. It you want it to be able to glide over the surface of the ball, you should probably think magnets. !
Could you upload some of your print settings? I know weight is important. For example, how many layers? Fill? Any other settings which may be useful. Thanks! I'm using Simplify3D.
Hi Michael. The aesthetic pieces (Dome, Skirt, Dome Top) were all 2 perimeters and incredibly low infill (I believe it was 5%, not much space between the walls anyway). My bottom and top layers are usually set to 2 as well. This may then require some post work, for example I had to use some putty to cover some light cover on my top layers specifically on the main dome piece, but nothing major. For the structural pieces I did 3 perimeters and 35% infill. The tires are are done at 50% Semiflex, and the smaller caster pieces are done with 3 perimeters as low a lower infill (15%). I'll update the webpage with this information. Use these as a guide, but see what you can get away with on shaving off weight. It's all about the light dome.
Perfect info, thanks for taking the time! I'm printing now.
Did you use any supports? Thanks again for your great feedback and solution. I appreciate you taking the time.
Yeah. Some parts require supports. AESTHETICS: The Dome requires supports under the crossbar only, no supports needed on the skirt or dome topper. STRUCTURAL: The spindle arms require supports under the dovetail, nothing on the spindle hub. Nothing on the casters requires supports.
Where can I buy or could sell me: Round Spacer, Nylon, Off-White, M3 Screw Size, 6.2mm OD, 3.1mm ID, 7mm Length. Amazon has it on back order since Oct 31st