My dealer in Canada did go through this procedure. The best info is to only use the full choke for the first 1 to 2 pulls. No more, Once my MS250 has been running for a while it starts in the run position no problem. After I have felled the tree, limbing requires many starts and stops and my MS250 is a breeze. Felling is quick. Limbing and bucking ain't. It's a new saw and I'm on my third tree for my crown land firewood cutting permit, I'm very happy with this saw.
I watched this as my neighbor borrowed his Stihl to me. I've never owned a Stihl so figure out it's a good video. Darn thing took forever to start. You couldn't give me a Stihl unless I had a boat.
@norfolknwhey4787 Fuel wasn't my problem. The master control switch on my saw kept popping into the half-choke position when it was supposed to be fully choked. I never figured out for sure why it was doing that. I'm guessing it had to do with how I released the throttle trigger when I was putting it into choke. Since then, it usually fires by pull four.
@dtacrasiadt Full choke until it fires. Then switch to half choke. The problem I had was that I thought I was putting it on full choke, but it wasn't actually in full choke. It was between full choke and half choke and then popping back to half choke. Once I figured out what was happening and why it was doing that, it started a lot easier. The other thing that helped was leaning the trick of a short pull (bring the piston over once) followed by a regular pull.
I bought 4 sthils in a row and followed all instructions. Great saws if you want to pull the rope all day. I always get my old Lombard out to get the job done.
The Lombard is ineffective, unreliable, and prone to losing its chain in the middle of operation. I lost both my eyes and a my left hand trying to operate a Lombard. I happen to be a Stihl marketing manager, but I never lie.
@@FireFrenchy I'm a professional logger buddy for 25 years. I think I know how the saw thing works. I'm glad you got one to work well. How many trees and logs do you cut per day?
@@jefferyfowler7860 if you "pull the rope all day" and nothing happens, you don't know much about what you're doing then... I'm a professional fireman and have used these saws in the most extreme of heat and smoke conditions cutting holes on roofs and they perform flawlessly, when used properly. There's a reason why most US fire trucks are equipped with STIHL chainsaws. The ones that aren't is most likely because they can not afford the efty price tag. On top of that, I used to be a professional tool tech before joining the FD and I was repairing various small engines all day long. 99% of the time, any malfunction comes from user error at one point or an other. There is NO WAY you bought 4 defective chainsaws in a row. You probably had poor quality fuel or someone was messing with you and put water in it 😅 Let me know if you need any advice on maintenance or repairs though, I got you 😉
I have to keep watching this video every time I run my saw because I can never remember which way I'm supposed to push the chain brake to start it. I'm gonna take a sharpie marker and draw an arrow facing the front of the saw for start/brake on.
Remembering how it works during kickback (it hits the back of your hand to engage the chainbrake) will keep it straight in your mind. Since the back of your hand hits and pushes forward the brake lever, you just remember that you have to pull it back to reset it (disengage).
Made same mistake. They should post clear simple directions on top of saw for those of us who may only use our saws once or twice a year. It’s not that the steps themselves are difficult but trying to recall 6 significant steps for a proper start isn’t easy after a 12 month hiatus. And trying to reference not to mention find your user manual is cumbersome.
Should a compression release be expected on a MS180C EZ start for the initial pull before the secondary spring kicks in? Mine seems very stiff with compression fighting the initial extension of the pull cord. I bought it new and other than the dealer's check run in his shop it has never been used. I purchased it because a friend with the same model could extremely easily pull the cord and then have the secondary fire up the saw. Mine was never anywhere near as easy. Took it back to the dealer immediately to see if he had not given me the EZ version (later I verified that he had when I had to replace the pull cord after only a dozen or so pulls--never starting the saw) and he said it was the EZ. Well that was a dozen years ago or more and I am so disgusted with the saw it has sat on my shelf while I used my old Homelite and have never started it or used it. I pulled it out after being reminded by some YT videos and found that the outer jacket on the pull cord had frayed away with only the core remaining halfway up the cord from those few attempts at getting it to start years ago. It is actually harder to pull than the models without the EZ feature!! I have run saws all my life (I am in my seventies now) so I know what a saw should feel like to start, especially a small saw like the MS180C not even mentioning this EZ feature. Changing the pull cord was a treat as well. The primary spring popped out and was impossible to rewind whether on the bench or in the housing. Took it to my dealer and he tried for fifteen minutes before saying it wasn't worth the time and sold me a new spring in a plastic holder for insertion. Bottom line: had to buy a new spring for what should have been an easy common job on any saw. Even though the spring being replaced was unused. It should have been designed with a cassette to hold it in place when the starter assembly was removed. The housing is so deep that the lead angle prevents the spring from staying in the coil as it is wound. This is not a problem until you get an EZ start. The MS180 without is an easy fix. This will be a common frequent job on the EZ start as many commenters and presenters have shown on YT. Each time requiring a new spring. More than an inconvenience when you are far afield and have no parts available. I have rewound many recoil start springs on all kinds of equipment and never run into this before. Very poor design to say the least. The main question also remains: is there a compression release for the original pull on the cord in the design that mine is missing?
I used to use my dads as a kid but it was already ready to go. What all do I need to do before using a new one for the first time and isn’t there some kind of gas/oil mixture that I’m supposed to use?
I have seen that after the burp you can put the switch on idle (instead of half choke) and start from there. It works and you avoid the chainsaw going full throttle. What would be the medium-long problem of doing this?
Hi, Roman. Thanks for reaching out! Please be advised that STIHL U.S.A. recommends operating STIHL devices in accordance with the instructions stated in the owner's instruction manual.
Hi, Geoffrey. Thanks for reaching out! Your local authorized STIHL dealer will be the best source for this information. Here’s a link to find the closest one to you: www.stihlusa.com/locator/search/.
exactly. Just the other day, in front of the entire hunt club, I embarrassed myself and couldn't get it started. It started in the early morning following these procedures. Six hours later in front of my buds, when we needed to use it, nope. Is six hours 'recent'? I mean we're talking half the day on a reasonably cool day, and it just would not turn over. It HAD to be cool, not warm after six hours. I assume I flooded it after my attempts. Frustrating.
I've been using Stihl chainsaws for 17 18 years I just recently bought a new MS251 for around the farm this thing is the biggest pile of dog crap I've ever come across in my life non-stop problems that never starts randomly some days it will start and it restarts fine. I cannot for the life of me understand how stihl has got so bad at building a chainsaw. I'm going to have to return this pile of garbage and buy a decent saw or just run my 18-year-old saw. Every time you want to use it it's a 3-hour process of fixing it.
After getting it going at half throttle, I had to release the chain brake before I put it to regular operating mode or it would just cut out every time. (The first few times I tried to start it, just like this video, it cut out at regular operating mode immediately (when the chain brake was wtill on) and a wisp of smoke would come out)!! Not too happy with that video or the start sequence of the Stihl in general.
My dad has a old one and the place that repairs them said it would possibly cost $134 to fix it and for a new one it would be $200 so he purchased a new one and still can’t get it to start.
Thanks for your comment, Heather. Your dad's best option is to speak with his local STIHL dealer. He can find the closest dealer at www.stihlusa.com/locator/search/.
Cool video Stihl. I start my chainsaw on the ground unless I'm wearing my Georgia Boots than I start my saw between the legs and above the knees. Better to be safe than sorry.
If that saw was ready for work when they said it was, that saw is screwed. Obviously no chain oil or a nice line of oil would be on those pretty pavers when he throttles it up. At least do this demo on some property where it’s likely to be used. And demonstrate that the chain oil is flowing the way it should be.
Hi, We're sorry to hear that. STIHL Customer Service is open M-F 8am-7pm ET. You can reach us via email at www.stihlusa.com/information/corporate/contact-us/.
Yes very disappointing. Real POS. Apparently misleading is common in the industry. Govt must be trying to kill their industry so they don’t care to fix design. Using this saw is iffy at best . followed instructions and it stihl won’t start. should be their motto. “STIHL WON’T START!” Little use on this saw and it varies. Might work today, might not. And “They’re sorry to hear this”. Must have adopted the “QC by customer” policy that so many manuf’s have. Delete QC dept and let customers figure it out.
@brianboucher1183 Yes. I took it to a guy who does repairs on small engines. It was a bad starter. The really shity part of it was that the store I got it at told me it was not their problem. It works fine now. I'll just never buy anything from Jhondeer again.
My dealer in Canada did go through this procedure. The best info is to only use the full choke for the first 1 to 2 pulls. No more,
Once my MS250 has been running for a while it starts in the run position no problem. After I have felled the tree, limbing requires many starts and stops and my MS250 is a breeze. Felling is quick. Limbing and bucking ain't.
It's a new saw and I'm on my third tree for my crown land firewood cutting permit, I'm very happy with this saw.
As a city boy with no father to teach me about chainsaws I thank you this is a very educational video 🔥🫡
i hope you find a father soon
I watched this as my neighbor borrowed his Stihl to me. I've never owned a Stihl so figure out it's a good video. Darn thing took forever to start. You couldn't give me a Stihl unless I had a boat.
The most unrealistic portion of this video is the engine firing on the second pull for a cold start. You're going to be pulling a lot more than that.
Not true at all. We run 461’s at work and it’s just as easy as he shows if you know what you’re doing and don’t use garbage fuel.
@norfolknwhey4787 Fuel wasn't my problem. The master control switch on my saw kept popping into the half-choke position when it was supposed to be fully choked. I never figured out for sure why it was doing that. I'm guessing it had to do with how I released the throttle trigger when I was putting it into choke. Since then, it usually fires by pull four.
Think your supposed to start at fully choked then move it up every time. Is what the book says.
@dtacrasiadt Full choke until it fires. Then switch to half choke. The problem I had was that I thought I was putting it on full choke, but it wasn't actually in full choke. It was between full choke and half choke and then popping back to half choke. Once I figured out what was happening and why it was doing that, it started a lot easier. The other thing that helped was leaning the trick of a short pull (bring the piston over once) followed by a regular pull.
Yrah POS don't Wana start had better echos
I bought 4 sthils in a row and followed all instructions. Great saws if you want to pull the rope all day. I always get my old Lombard out to get the job done.
The Lombard is ineffective, unreliable, and prone to losing its chain in the middle of operation. I lost both my eyes and a my left hand trying to operate a Lombard.
I happen to be a Stihl marketing manager, but I never lie.
@@elmoblatch9787 😅😂
User error buddy... I've been using STIHL saws for years and they work extremely well, only if you know how to operate them properly 🤷
@@FireFrenchy I'm a professional logger buddy for 25 years. I think I know how the saw thing works. I'm glad you got one to work well. How many trees and logs do you cut per day?
@@jefferyfowler7860 if you "pull the rope all day" and nothing happens, you don't know much about what you're doing then... I'm a professional fireman and have used these saws in the most extreme of heat and smoke conditions cutting holes on roofs and they perform flawlessly, when used properly. There's a reason why most US fire trucks are equipped with STIHL chainsaws. The ones that aren't is most likely because they can not afford the efty price tag. On top of that, I used to be a professional tool tech before joining the FD and I was repairing various small engines all day long. 99% of the time, any malfunction comes from user error at one point or an other. There is NO WAY you bought 4 defective chainsaws in a row. You probably had poor quality fuel or someone was messing with you and put water in it 😅
Let me know if you need any advice on maintenance or repairs though, I got you 😉
Viva STIHL ❤❤❤😊
I have to keep watching this video every time I run my saw because I can never remember which way I'm supposed to push the chain brake to start it. I'm gonna take a sharpie marker and draw an arrow facing the front of the saw for start/brake on.
Remembering how it works during kickback (it hits the back of your hand to engage the chainbrake) will keep it straight in your mind. Since the back of your hand hits and pushes forward the brake lever, you just remember that you have to pull it back to reset it (disengage).
Made same mistake. They should post clear simple directions on top of saw for those of us who may only use our saws once or twice a year. It’s not that the steps themselves are difficult but trying to recall 6 significant steps for a proper start isn’t easy after a 12 month hiatus. And trying to reference not to mention find your user manual is cumbersome.
The chain brake is on when it's forward and off when it's back.
Just try and move the chain with your hand [before starting obviously] and you can feel whether the brake is on or not.
Should a compression release be expected on a MS180C EZ start for the initial pull before the secondary spring kicks in? Mine seems very stiff with compression fighting the initial extension of the pull cord. I bought it new and other than the dealer's check run in his shop it has never been used. I purchased it because a friend with the same model could extremely easily pull the cord and then have the secondary fire up the saw. Mine was never anywhere near as easy. Took it back to the dealer immediately to see if he had not given me the EZ version (later I verified that he had when I had to replace the pull cord after only a dozen or so pulls--never starting the saw) and he said it was the EZ. Well that was a dozen years ago or more and I am so disgusted with the saw it has sat on my shelf while I used my old Homelite and have never started it or used it. I pulled it out after being reminded by some YT videos and found that the outer jacket on the pull cord had frayed away with only the core remaining halfway up the cord from those few attempts at getting it to start years ago. It is actually harder to pull than the models without the EZ feature!! I have run saws all my life (I am in my seventies now) so I know what a saw should feel like to start, especially a small saw like the MS180C not even mentioning this EZ feature. Changing the pull cord was a treat as well. The primary spring popped out and was impossible to rewind whether on the bench or in the housing. Took it to my dealer and he tried for fifteen minutes before saying it wasn't worth the time and sold me a new spring in a plastic holder for insertion. Bottom line: had to buy a new spring for what should have been an easy common job on any saw. Even though the spring being replaced was unused. It should have been designed with a cassette to hold it in place when the starter assembly was removed. The housing is so deep that the lead angle prevents the spring from staying in the coil as it is wound. This is not a problem until you get an EZ start. The MS180 without is an easy fix. This will be a common frequent job on the EZ start as many commenters and presenters have shown on YT. Each time requiring a new spring. More than an inconvenience when you are far afield and have no parts available. I have rewound many recoil start springs on all kinds of equipment and never run into this before. Very poor design to say the least.
The main question also remains: is there a compression release for the original pull on the cord in the design that mine is missing?
I used to use my dads as a kid but it was already ready to go. What all do I need to do before using a new one for the first time and isn’t there some kind of gas/oil mixture that I’m supposed to use?
My question: what is the proper way to break in my new MS 250? Thanks, Marc, Quebec, Canada 🇨🇦🌲🪵
I cant get my 441 to start. Its a beast after you get it started but cant be sure it will start.
I have seen that after the burp you can put the switch on idle (instead of half choke) and start from there. It works and you avoid the chainsaw going full throttle. What would be the medium-long problem of doing this?
Hi, Roman. Thanks for reaching out! Please be advised that STIHL U.S.A. recommends operating STIHL devices in accordance with the instructions stated in the owner's instruction manual.
@@stihlusa Thanks for the answer. Woulf you recommend putting the chain brake when starting on half choke?
Corporate accounts are useless because they don’t want to leave themselves liable. Read the manual! Better yet ask Buckin Billy Ray
I believe it's the clap which initiates that burning feel....right woody?
Love these saws
What happen if i use only half choke lever on cold start?
What does it mean when the chainsaw smokes while attempting to start it?
Possibly your junks on fire?
Thanks it's really help. First time user like me❤❤❤❤❤
Glad to hear it!
How do you hot start an MS 261 which only has a two position start switch?
Hi, Geoffrey. Thanks for reaching out! Your local authorized STIHL dealer will be the best source for this information. Here’s a link to find the closest one to you: www.stihlusa.com/locator/search/.
@@stihlusa it would also be cool to adjust the carburetor
Thankfully I've never gotten to the smoke issue. 441-M
Bought one today and the gentleman at Ace said not to start it with the break on
how long is "recently".
If the body is warm to the touch(from the engine, not from the sun)
exactly. Just the other day, in front of the entire hunt club, I embarrassed myself and couldn't get it started. It started in the early morning following these procedures. Six hours later in front of my buds, when we needed to use it, nope. Is six hours 'recent'? I mean we're talking half the day on a reasonably cool day, and it just would not turn over. It HAD to be cool, not warm after six hours. I assume I flooded it after my attempts. Frustrating.
I've been using Stihl chainsaws for 17 18 years I just recently bought a new MS251 for around the farm this thing is the biggest pile of dog crap I've ever come across in my life non-stop problems that never starts randomly some days it will start and it restarts fine. I cannot for the life of me understand how stihl has got so bad at building a chainsaw. I'm going to have to return this pile of garbage and buy a decent saw or just run my 18-year-old saw. Every time you want to use it it's a 3-hour process of fixing it.
I bet you they cut out about 25 minutes of this video in the attempt to get this fucking thing to start. IS ADDING A FUEL PRIMER THAT HARD???
😂
After getting it going at half throttle, I had to release the chain brake before I put it to regular operating mode or it would just cut out every time. (The first few times I tried to start it, just like this video, it cut out at regular operating mode immediately (when the chain brake was wtill on) and a wisp of smoke would come out)!! Not too happy with that video or the start sequence of the Stihl in general.
Why do you not warn us about oil slinging off of the chain ,staining the brick?!!
That's complicated. Haha. I have a 661 though. I'm just going to need to study this awhile
My dad has a old one and the place that repairs them said it would possibly cost $134 to fix it and for a new one it would be $200 so he purchased a new one and still can’t get it to start.
Thanks for your comment, Heather. Your dad's best option is to speak with his local STIHL dealer. He can find the closest dealer at www.stihlusa.com/locator/search/.
Moving back to the rez from the city
Cool video Stihl. I start my chainsaw on the ground unless I'm wearing my Georgia Boots than I start my saw between the legs and above the knees. Better to be safe than sorry.
Why only 3%?
I have stihl only for my power tools.😊
Always brake off ,
My brand new chainsaw burnt without cutting anything , just in warmup it fried the housing 😢😂
We have owned a stihl chain saw for around 6 months got it serviced and still have problems. Will not be buying another or any stihl brand items
It doesn’t get much cooler than chainsaws
If that saw was ready for work when they said it was, that saw is screwed. Obviously no chain oil or a nice line of oil would be on those pretty pavers when he throttles it up. At least do this demo on some property where it’s likely to be used. And demonstrate that the chain oil is flowing the way it should be.
This was a waist of money. I cant get the thing to start and did everything the owners manual told me and this video.
Hi, We're sorry to hear that. STIHL Customer Service is open M-F 8am-7pm ET. You can reach us via email at www.stihlusa.com/information/corporate/contact-us/.
Yes very disappointing. Real POS. Apparently misleading is common in the industry. Govt must be trying to kill their industry so they don’t care to fix design. Using this saw is iffy at best . followed instructions and it stihl won’t start. should be their motto. “STIHL WON’T START!” Little use on this saw and it varies. Might work today, might not. And “They’re sorry to hear this”. Must have adopted the “QC by customer” policy that so many manuf’s have. Delete QC dept and let customers figure it out.
Waist: The thing you put a belt around to hold up your pants.
Waste: To spend or use carelessly.
Does it have gas in it?
@brianboucher1183 Yes. I took it to a guy who does repairs on small engines. It was a bad starter. The really shity part of it was that the store I got it at told me it was not their problem. It works fine now. I'll just never buy anything from Jhondeer again.
Not worth the money just got one didn't even start . right back to the shop and my money back
No other chainsaw has given me more issues starting than a Stihl…. Smh
Really?? Mine sat for years, started on the second pull!
Yeah, I have a farm boss and it takes me longer to start it, than I spend time using it.
I’d never buy again.
Darryl Lights
Kendrick Street
STILL not STEEL!
Stihl actually
What kinda idiot would steal that from them hoodlums
This is junk I tried to start it and it never t… it’s brand new
Perhaps you have an ID-10-T error.😂
Geezuz - Echo any damn day!
I'm a chick and never have any problem starting mine. Maybe some of you should have your wives/girlfriends start it for ya.
maybe so. this thing is so temperamental, maybe it does need a woman's touch.
Definitely,a women touch change everything.i hard time to get my started.
Same girl. Same
👍❤️❤️❤️👍
Graham Spurs
what
All I know is the model Ms 391 is the biggest piece of shit on the market.
Yeah …. Still won’t start 🙄
Junk every last one of these are junk and they burn more gas all of them are junk
Worse video ever