I’m using Vallejo Metal Colors and will be using Aztec Dummy paint masks. I’m concerned about adhesion issues you have had with the paints. I used Duplicolor adhesion promoter before priming with Mr. Surfacer 1500 black. I’m wondering if the adhesion issues you had were before they changed the formula in 2020 and if the new formula has much better adhesion?
You obviously have a passion for our craft and you enjoy the process. I would recommend going back and re-hashing this video. Up front you go to great pains to give a tongue-in-cheek comment about the guys who test paint by spraying figure eights on paper towels and clearly state that you will take us through the whole real-deal process you'd go through in building and prepping a model for using this line of metallics. Then, eight minutes into it, you're spraying primer on a paint mule in your booth. You haven't filled seams or done any normally accepted prep that one would do when painting with metallics. You also mention that you are just flooding on the primer which you imply is not something you would do normally. In short, you proceed counter to the intent you describe at the beginning of the video. I've tried to watch this video three times now and I just can't get past that. In short, eight minutes into a two-part hour-and-a-half video, and you've lost me. C'mon man. Your videos obviously have a great impact on your fellow modelers. This one deserves another go.
Hate to necro bump, but yeah. the point of this is to review the paint, not be a full on tutorial. I kinda feel there was a bit too much setup put in. Could have stopped at giving a short exposition, rather than showing the full process(maybe even quip about yourself on having to go back and re-sand after the clear coat), but I really appreciate a real world benchmark here, rather than a synthetic test. Flory did similar, but he didn't do a good primer coat, just went over the last test on his mule(which I didn't like) and went from paint to a masking test in a few minutes(which I really thought was unfair since you should really give that like 12 hours to fully harden). Also, on the paintflow, that neo may not have it, but the cheapo brush I got to learn on has a dial at the back to limit how far I can pull back to keep from overpainting with materials such as this. Lastly, what I've found(and this is a ymmv thing) I really tend to prefer spraying at ~15 psi for just about everything. it doesn't seem like there'd be much difference, but I've gotten better results when spraying a bit low.
I made the mistake of not using stainless steel balls in my paints long ago and ruined about 200 bottles of paint. Ugh. And I also had my Alclad bottle crack and fall apart in my hand..... While standing in my living room. It was one hell of a mess bc it happened while I was shaking it. SMH.
Stupid question here; but where do I find stainless steel ball bearings? I've never had to look for them. I can find stainless steel nuts at Lowe's or Home Depot.
Use the silver BB's for BB guns. I believe they are chrome plated and not stainless steel, but I've got some bottles of paint that's had those BB's in there for over 12 years with no signs of rust or discoloration to the paint and the BB's themselves look the same as the day I dropped em in there.
Really appreciate the time you put into this very methodical approach...both informative and very helpful - thanks 👍
just wanted to say I have been watching your videos, Picking up a lot of hints. thanks for doing them.
Very good test Will. Thanks for sharing and taking the time out to do this
someone Spray that fly some Metallics !!! Great test thanks for sharing
Thank you very much for this upload Will. Very informative and educational.
Greets & Happy Newyear Richard.
Very interesting Will as all of your videos are
I’m using Vallejo Metal Colors and will be using Aztec Dummy paint masks. I’m concerned about adhesion issues you have had with the paints. I used Duplicolor adhesion promoter before priming with Mr. Surfacer 1500 black. I’m wondering if the adhesion issues you had were before they changed the formula in 2020 and if the new formula has much better adhesion?
You obviously have a passion for our craft and you enjoy the process. I would recommend going back and re-hashing this video. Up front you go to great pains to give a tongue-in-cheek comment about the guys who test paint by spraying figure eights on paper towels and clearly state that you will take us through the whole real-deal process you'd go through in building and prepping a model for using this line of metallics. Then, eight minutes into it, you're spraying primer on a paint mule in your booth. You haven't filled seams or done any normally accepted prep that one would do when painting with metallics. You also mention that you are just flooding on the primer which you imply is not something you would do normally. In short, you proceed counter to the intent you describe at the beginning of the video. I've tried to watch this video three times now and I just can't get past that. In short, eight minutes into a two-part hour-and-a-half video, and you've lost me. C'mon man. Your videos obviously have a great impact on your fellow modelers. This one deserves another go.
hm. a fair point, but the fact is, nothing i did as a shortcut affects the final result. you'll see. stick with it! ;)
Hate to necro bump, but yeah. the point of this is to review the paint, not be a full on tutorial. I kinda feel there was a bit too much setup put in. Could have stopped at giving a short exposition, rather than showing the full process(maybe even quip about yourself on having to go back and re-sand after the clear coat), but I really appreciate a real world benchmark here, rather than a synthetic test. Flory did similar, but he didn't do a good primer coat, just went over the last test on his mule(which I didn't like) and went from paint to a masking test in a few minutes(which I really thought was unfair since you should really give that like 12 hours to fully harden).
Also, on the paintflow, that neo may not have it, but the cheapo brush I got to learn on has a dial at the back to limit how far I can pull back to keep from overpainting with materials such as this.
Lastly, what I've found(and this is a ymmv thing) I really tend to prefer spraying at ~15 psi for just about everything. it doesn't seem like there'd be much difference, but I've gotten better results when spraying a bit low.
I made the mistake of not using stainless steel balls in my paints long ago and ruined about 200 bottles of paint. Ugh. And I also had my Alclad bottle crack and fall apart in my hand..... While standing in my living room. It was one hell of a mess bc it happened while I was shaking it. SMH.
Stupid question here; but where do I find stainless steel ball bearings? I've never had to look for them. I can find stainless steel nuts at Lowe's or Home Depot.
Use the silver BB's for BB guns. I believe they are chrome plated and not stainless steel, but I've got some bottles of paint that's had those BB's in there for over 12 years with no signs of rust or discoloration to the paint and the BB's themselves look the same as the day I dropped em in there.
What is the buffing wheel you are using on your rotary tool?
+Jason's model workshop I just googled Dremmel buffing wheels and ended up with a bag of them for like five bucks off Amazon.
thank you for your quick reply! looking forward to part 2.
A general questions, to all Americans. How do you spell "aluminum"?
just like that. with one "i".
@@barpfoto but it says aluminium unless I misread, on the bottle, is it brittish? 😁
@@Darkurge666 ha! does it? i never noticed.
30 minutes into the review of the paint, and ive not even seen the paint yet
just priming. WTH
+Roger Cheeks i'm sure it's straining your attention span, but just hang in there lil' camper! :D
You haven't even mentioned Nazis. I'm going back to Adam Manns channel.