A thought for the next time: If you make the gasket the nominal diameter of TPU filament, that could be a your gasket and might use materials you've already got in your shop. Also: Cut your gasket at complimentary 45 degree angles at the ends, they will overlap in a way that is much easier to fenagle together.
Both great tips! Thank you🙏🏼 Early-on we did start experimenting with a TPU seal with that had little ball 'nubbins' that would pop into corresponding ball-shaped holes into the contact surfaces....but we just couldn't work through the design fast enough to get them to pop in securely and cleanly (because we were really trying to avoid using glue). We felt like we had gone too long without posting anything, so we backburnered the snap-in TPU idea and went with the rubber cord because it was closer to viable at the time. Though since, we started mentally noodling on whether a design using dovetail shapes might work out better. The 45 deg gasket cut idea👍🏼👌🏼, man....that makes sooooo much sense...genius. Thank you🙏🏼🙇🏾♂️
I have a tip for you to put inserts better like that: 1. Put the insert 2. Press it with a plane tool like you do 3. Use your solder iron with the special bit but let 1mm out 4. Use again your plane tool to press this last millimeter 5. You can finish rotating your tool before release (optional) Your insert will be perfectly mounted on each axis with this method and the plastic will stay plane too.
An actually neat feature to add to this design would be a bottom plate with a USB C passthrough. So an upwards facing USB-C plug that the drive sits on and an output socket on the back. Giving it an actual practical use as a harddrive dock that sits on desks.
I love everything about this. I also use Shapr3d , also love 3d printing, have multiple lasers, but overall the project and *style* of the end result. Very futuristic and militaristic!
This is great, next build drive cage in the same style, where you can slot these in, maybe with a redesign bottom part of this case so you can actually socket the SSD/HDD into it that custom drive cage. Could be a cool little set of NAS like storage.
Absolutely. Most server rack hardware is unnecessarily expensive, and 3d printed constructions could easily slash prices tenfold. A single 24 port SAS HBA card can support 24*12gbps, aka 288 gigabits per second R/W, or 36 gigabytes a second. (on a *_single_* card) But, most hard drives can't actually get anywhere near fast enough to saturate a single 12gbps SAS link on their own, so SAS splitters can rig up several drives per port in order to get greater usage of those links. As far as I can tell, splitters you can find readily tend to split 4:1, so that'd be 96 hard drives (using a single splitter per SAS link) on a single HBA card. The issue is, even ludicrously expensive rackmount server chassis can only physically fit 20 or so drives, and there isn't any easy way for you to buy stanadalone drive bays. With how easily and cheaply you can get PCBs made though, combined with how robust 3d printing has become in the past decade or so, you could absolutely engineer a stackable backplane rackmount drive bay system and get over a hundred drive setups accessible to consumers. (you're definitely in the 'prosumer' niche, but still firmly accessible to consumers) You're in the area where a fairly reasonable person could actually have petabytes of storage at their home.
@@almaefogo I'm not sure there exists a non-data-hoarder "prosumer" niche when it comes to data storage. That seems like a pretty hard thing to land between, either you don't store that much and a single 2tb hard drive will cover you, or you're hosting your own media servers, backing up everything, (like you should be doing anyway) etc. and you're looking at >10tb of total storage, at which point you're firmly in 'data-hoarding' territory purely because you are an enthusiast and want to do things like keep backups and self-host shit. I mean, if you want to keep all of your steam/GOG/whatever games installed or something and play a decent amount of AAA games, that alone could add terabytes. A full blu-ray rip of a single series can take half of a terabyte on it's own. If you *_are_* looking at 10 TB and up of active data storage (not counting backups and such) then you'd want 2-3x that for backups, so 30 tb of storage. (keep in mind, you should be backing up *_all_* of your devices, so this data storage wouldn't just be backing up it's own contents in the case of accidental deletion, it'd be backing up all of your other devices as well) Then you'd want to add RAID redundancy which if you are creating RAID6 clusters with 5 drives each would result in a net efficiency of 3/5, meaning 30tb would actually require 50tb. If you wanted to add additional parity between those stripes in case you lose one entire stripe that'd add another 10 or 20. And suddenly you're looking at like 70TB of storage starting from 10, just because we're now factoring in parity data and a few backups. It's basically impossible to fall into the "prosumer" niche without also falling into the "datahoarder" niche if you actually practice basic data-safety practices. (backups, RAID, etc.) 10TB isn't actually that much if you're considering self-hosting your media via plex/jellyfin, keeping your games installed locally, etc. and yet with 5tb drives you're already looking at 14 drives just to meet a 10tb starting goal for active data. Say you want to double that because you want to store a few more high quality bluray rips of shows, now you're looking at 28 drives just because you wanted to expand your local media library a bit without transcoding them and reducing their quality. People talk about "datahoarding" as if every single house doesn't have an attic and/or basement *_filled_* with boxes of old crap. By just causally living life you're constantly building a collection of shit that you'd rather not lose, and over time that shit builds up. I mean a proper bespoke 100TB server rack setup costs, eh, let's say 5 grand. How much floorspace does that entire attic/basement full of stuff take up proportional to the entire house? Chances are you've paid more for that floorspace to store your old physical crap that you don't want to lose then you would pay to store your old digital crap that you don't want to lose. (the difference is that all of your digital crap can actually be accessed without spending hours sifting through old boxes.) Again, if you self host bluray rips you're easily looking at potentially 5-10 terabytes of data. One bluray can hold 50-100gb, if you're looking at a show with 5 seasons and 1-2 blurays per season that's in the 500g range for *_one_* show. The point I'm making is that the bar for "datahoarder" is much lower than the bar for "hoarder", and if most families treated their data like they did their physical items, they'd be datahoarders. The difference is they'd have a closet where they store everything, instead of an entire section of their house. (or storage locker or whatever. I've been working on one stereotype here but nothing substantially changes if you have a shed or a storage locker for everything.) There just isn't actually a middleground between "prosumer" and "datahoarder" because the second you start trying to do fairly basic stuff like rip your blurays you start adding several terabytes to your total active storage, and when you factor in backups and RAID redundancy every one terabyte of active storage can equate to 5 or more of necessary data capacity.
You can use super glue, CA, to build custom O-rings from the correct stock. Cut the length of the cord just short and glue the ends together. It will be under a hair of tension when installed. O-ring kits exist for this purpose.
That's pretty cool. With how modular it appears, one could modify it to be a universal hard drive enclosure. When I saw the bottom being screwed in, it reminded me of a cheap aluminum USB hard drive enclosure I purchased years ago to transfer some files from PATA HDD to a new laptop. The internals were attached to a plastic sleeve that screwed in on both sides and could easily slide out and you could use sill use it for a thicker drive that didn't fit in the case.
As a useful thing - I don't much see the point, the T7 is already pretty sturdy. But as an *artifact* and a thing of beauty - I feel the need for this in my bones. It's stunning work, and a beautiful example of how far you can take 3-d printing. I absolutely love and was stunned by the contrast you got with the laser engraving. This is art, and you're an artist and all I can say is well done.
That's a great idea🤔! As it stands, that inner part of the seal closest to the hinge did have to be designed so that it accounted for the arc path. A multi-pivot system could provide a much better seal and even-out the pressure applied to the seal when the container is closed. We'll definitely tinker with that when we move to stronger materials after we finish some mark testing with the laser on some of them (PETG, ASA, etc. Thank you for the tip!🙏🏼🙇🏾♂️
A tenner is probably a bit much for what it is but I like it so I’ll probably buy it. You did a good job it looks great it’s just that it only fits one item. I would rather put a sata drive in mine and I would want more room for cables etc. I might have to design my own. Good video btw.
Excellent project. Would be great to see it incorporate A stripped down m2 style memory module and USBC interface for a real DIY project. Love the Fallout vibe of the print and graphics.
We usually start with a difference of 0.2 mm, but materials and print orientation can make a difference on how loose/tight things end up being, so you can't really avoid physical testing with any design. The hinge spine insert on the T7 project is a pretty tight fit; with the model of the shaft set at 6 mm wide, longitudinally; and the slot it goes into is specced at 6.02 mm wide. It's a tight fit, but note that the shaft has a tendency to warp a little when the heatset insert is pressed in, and the PLA bubbles up around the insert a bit (which we do file down and clean up before assembly to ensure fit).
@@batchresearchlab right, it depends on printer calibration sometimes too, hence the question. I imagine heat inserts add another level of consideration to the entire process. Thanks for the info.
It's a 'heat set insert press/tool'. The type that we used for this project is really just a standard soldering iron with thread-on brass tips that are sized to fit the heat set inserts, but the 90 degree armature really helps to make sure that the pressure is applied evenly and perpendicular to the surface.
Whoops, thanks for the reminder! I was supposed to clean that up and post it. We do have an older version of that test posted somewhere, but we've since revised it. Give us a little bit, then check the 'Files' section in the accordion at the bottom of the landing page.
Okay, check it now; I've posted a link to the xTool file we set up for the filament parameter test shown in the landing page write up (the one on the test plate).
@@batchresearchlab Thanks! I'll have to see if I can open it bc I have a different laser but I'll figure something out. FYI- The accordion section at the bottom of the page didn't work on mobile for some reason. May be worth testing.
This looks so cool! How do you do the masking with the laser? Are you printing with multiple layers where you have the outer layer of green being lasered away to reveal the lighter colored layer underneath?
Actually, the project parts in this video are printed in just one type/color of filament; and in this case, when the laser makes contact with the material, it's bubbling and foaming it at a microscopic level. You can actually feel the slight relief of the plastic when you run your fingers across the surface. The trick to accomplishing this is to control the duration the laser is making contact with the surface. For some materials/filaments the window between having no visible effect, and flat-out melting or burning the material can be very narrow. We've posted sample settings on certain materials in some of our shorts if you want to check them out. Here's a link to some more information about different types of laser marking: www.permanentmarking.com/the-4-most-common-types-of-laser-marking/ (not affiliated, but we've found that link very helpful)
@@batchresearchlab Thanks for the information and I will definitely check out the shorts videos! I had no idea you could get that kind of color contrast by just engraving the filament directly. Well, I know what I'm doing this evening :)
maybe if TH-cam stopped shoving massive quantities of ads down our throats they'd be the GOAT. As it stands I can barely get through a single video anymore.
It might be easier to think about it as the laser bubbling (foaming), melting, or burning the plastic (depending on the settings and material you use). The color of the plastic changes because of the reaction taking place, but we don't necessarily have much control as to what color that ends up being (though some materials allow a range of that effect to work with). We have another video that may provide a bit more insight: th-cam.com/video/NQEGXvpRVDE/w-d-xo.html Here's another link that might help explain what's happening: www.permanentmarking.com/the-4-most-common-types-of-laser-marking/
Yeah....haha😅...we figured that out after the fact. I think we were able to change it everywhere else, but we can't change the video audio once it's up🤷🏽♂️. Hopefully we haven't confused too many people. Thank you for letting us know👍🏼.
@@batchresearchlab Sounds good, Thanks for the answer! But just watch out as PLA is not quite resistant, if this needs to protect what's inside and you want to make it truly heavy duty i highly recommend some more tough materials :)
Thank you for the thoughts🙏🏼🙇🏾♂️ . Since this started out mainly as an aesthetic design exercise, we initially used just what we had on hand. But as it became more 'real', then we began to think more about function. As we move into experimenting with more durable materials such as styrenes and polyethylenes, we'll need to be a bit more cautious around fumes especially was we begin laser marking tests with those materials as well.
The limited edition cases shipped with two different bases. One of those bases had neodymium magnets embedded into it, which would have been detrimental to older, magnetic drives.
A thought for the next time: If you make the gasket the nominal diameter of TPU filament, that could be a your gasket and might use materials you've already got in your shop. Also: Cut your gasket at complimentary 45 degree angles at the ends, they will overlap in a way that is much easier to fenagle together.
Both great tips! Thank you🙏🏼 Early-on we did start experimenting with a TPU seal with that had little ball 'nubbins' that would pop into corresponding ball-shaped holes into the contact surfaces....but we just couldn't work through the design fast enough to get them to pop in securely and cleanly (because we were really trying to avoid using glue). We felt like we had gone too long without posting anything, so we backburnered the snap-in TPU idea and went with the rubber cord because it was closer to viable at the time. Though since, we started mentally noodling on whether a design using dovetail shapes might work out better. The 45 deg gasket cut idea👍🏼👌🏼, man....that makes sooooo much sense...genius. Thank you🙏🏼🙇🏾♂️
lol I was thinking the same thing. Maybe even use heat to join the ends.
One thing I would add is a sliding red tab to denote a “hot mag” when used on set for recording. Because this is badass!
There's some really fine engineering and design here. Nice work.
Thank you, that means a lot 🙏🏼
Really liked the workflow you used for the laser etching, and the test plate. Cool design overall too.
I have a tip for you to put inserts better like that:
1. Put the insert
2. Press it with a plane tool like you do
3. Use your solder iron with the special bit but let 1mm out
4. Use again your plane tool to press this last millimeter
5. You can finish rotating your tool before release (optional)
Your insert will be perfectly mounted on each axis with this method and the plastic will stay plane too.
Thank you! We'll try this!
An actually neat feature to add to this design would be a bottom plate with a USB C passthrough. So an upwards facing USB-C plug that the drive sits on and an output socket on the back. Giving it an actual practical use as a harddrive dock that sits on desks.
I love everything about this. I also use Shapr3d , also love 3d printing, have multiple lasers, but overall the project and *style* of the end result. Very futuristic and militaristic!
This is great, next build drive cage in the same style, where you can slot these in, maybe with a redesign bottom part of this case so you can actually socket the SSD/HDD into it that custom drive cage. Could be a cool little set of NAS like storage.
Absolutely. Most server rack hardware is unnecessarily expensive, and 3d printed constructions could easily slash prices tenfold. A single 24 port SAS HBA card can support 24*12gbps, aka 288 gigabits per second R/W, or 36 gigabytes a second. (on a *_single_* card) But, most hard drives can't actually get anywhere near fast enough to saturate a single 12gbps SAS link on their own, so SAS splitters can rig up several drives per port in order to get greater usage of those links. As far as I can tell, splitters you can find readily tend to split 4:1, so that'd be 96 hard drives (using a single splitter per SAS link) on a single HBA card.
The issue is, even ludicrously expensive rackmount server chassis can only physically fit 20 or so drives, and there isn't any easy way for you to buy stanadalone drive bays. With how easily and cheaply you can get PCBs made though, combined with how robust 3d printing has become in the past decade or so, you could absolutely engineer a stackable backplane rackmount drive bay system and get over a hundred drive setups accessible to consumers. (you're definitely in the 'prosumer' niche, but still firmly accessible to consumers) You're in the area where a fairly reasonable person could actually have petabytes of storage at their home.
@@robonator2945I like the idea but over 15 to 20 disks is way above prosumer stuff, definitely in the data hoarder part
@@almaefogo I'm not sure there exists a non-data-hoarder "prosumer" niche when it comes to data storage. That seems like a pretty hard thing to land between, either you don't store that much and a single 2tb hard drive will cover you, or you're hosting your own media servers, backing up everything, (like you should be doing anyway) etc. and you're looking at >10tb of total storage, at which point you're firmly in 'data-hoarding' territory purely because you are an enthusiast and want to do things like keep backups and self-host shit.
I mean, if you want to keep all of your steam/GOG/whatever games installed or something and play a decent amount of AAA games, that alone could add terabytes. A full blu-ray rip of a single series can take half of a terabyte on it's own.
If you *_are_* looking at 10 TB and up of active data storage (not counting backups and such) then you'd want 2-3x that for backups, so 30 tb of storage. (keep in mind, you should be backing up *_all_* of your devices, so this data storage wouldn't just be backing up it's own contents in the case of accidental deletion, it'd be backing up all of your other devices as well) Then you'd want to add RAID redundancy which if you are creating RAID6 clusters with 5 drives each would result in a net efficiency of 3/5, meaning 30tb would actually require 50tb. If you wanted to add additional parity between those stripes in case you lose one entire stripe that'd add another 10 or 20. And suddenly you're looking at like 70TB of storage starting from 10, just because we're now factoring in parity data and a few backups.
It's basically impossible to fall into the "prosumer" niche without also falling into the "datahoarder" niche if you actually practice basic data-safety practices. (backups, RAID, etc.) 10TB isn't actually that much if you're considering self-hosting your media via plex/jellyfin, keeping your games installed locally, etc. and yet with 5tb drives you're already looking at 14 drives just to meet a 10tb starting goal for active data. Say you want to double that because you want to store a few more high quality bluray rips of shows, now you're looking at 28 drives just because you wanted to expand your local media library a bit without transcoding them and reducing their quality.
People talk about "datahoarding" as if every single house doesn't have an attic and/or basement *_filled_* with boxes of old crap. By just causally living life you're constantly building a collection of shit that you'd rather not lose, and over time that shit builds up. I mean a proper bespoke 100TB server rack setup costs, eh, let's say 5 grand. How much floorspace does that entire attic/basement full of stuff take up proportional to the entire house? Chances are you've paid more for that floorspace to store your old physical crap that you don't want to lose then you would pay to store your old digital crap that you don't want to lose. (the difference is that all of your digital crap can actually be accessed without spending hours sifting through old boxes.) Again, if you self host bluray rips you're easily looking at potentially 5-10 terabytes of data. One bluray can hold 50-100gb, if you're looking at a show with 5 seasons and 1-2 blurays per season that's in the 500g range for *_one_* show.
The point I'm making is that the bar for "datahoarder" is much lower than the bar for "hoarder", and if most families treated their data like they did their physical items, they'd be datahoarders. The difference is they'd have a closet where they store everything, instead of an entire section of their house. (or storage locker or whatever. I've been working on one stereotype here but nothing substantially changes if you have a shed or a storage locker for everything.) There just isn't actually a middleground between "prosumer" and "datahoarder" because the second you start trying to do fairly basic stuff like rip your blurays you start adding several terabytes to your total active storage, and when you factor in backups and RAID redundancy every one terabyte of active storage can equate to 5 or more of necessary data capacity.
This is such a cool print. I use the T7 daily. That is something I would print for sure!!
I kinda like the one with hardware better !!!! Great video
You can use super glue, CA, to build custom O-rings from the correct stock. Cut the length of the cord just short and glue the ends together. It will be under a hair of tension when installed. O-ring kits exist for this purpose.
That's pretty cool. With how modular it appears, one could modify it to be a universal hard drive enclosure. When I saw the bottom being screwed in, it reminded me of a cheap aluminum USB hard drive enclosure I purchased years ago to transfer some files from PATA HDD to a new laptop. The internals were attached to a plastic sleeve that screwed in on both sides and could easily slide out and you could use sill use it for a thicker drive that didn't fit in the case.
Nice Work & Beautiful Design!
As a useful thing - I don't much see the point, the T7 is already pretty sturdy. But as an *artifact* and a thing of beauty - I feel the need for this in my bones. It's stunning work, and a beautiful example of how far you can take 3-d printing. I absolutely love and was stunned by the contrast you got with the laser engraving. This is art, and you're an artist and all I can say is well done.
Nice project, for that lid I think an over-center mechanism with some skeletal arms/struts would be neato
That's a great idea🤔! As it stands, that inner part of the seal closest to the hinge did have to be designed so that it accounted for the arc path. A multi-pivot system could provide a much better seal and even-out the pressure applied to the seal when the container is closed. We'll definitely tinker with that when we move to stronger materials after we finish some mark testing with the laser on some of them (PETG, ASA, etc. Thank you for the tip!🙏🏼🙇🏾♂️
What is an over center mechanism? 😅 Is that just like a door hinge mounted centrally?
Such an amazing design and concept! I’ll be reaching out through your website.
wow - very cool! Nice work!
Uow, great project, looks like a movie prop.
Got me hocked on that design 😊
What laser engraver do you use? This is sick, I want to deco my FDM parts now.
For this project, we used an xTool F1
Cool design!
Excellent project!!
Damm that's a clean design
A tenner is probably a bit much for what it is but I like it so I’ll probably buy it. You did a good job it looks great it’s just that it only fits one item. I would rather put a sata drive in mine and I would want more room for cables etc. I might have to design my own. Good video btw.
La vache, les finitions sont super propres !
Merci pour la vidéo = D
Damn, that's some nice clean finish!
Thanks for he video!
Excellent project. Would be great to see it incorporate A stripped down m2 style memory module and USBC interface for a real DIY project. Love the Fallout vibe of the print and graphics.
Pretty slick boss!
Just put my order in thank you for this.
Wow, u keep making cool stuff like this this channel gonna blow up. I wanna see what this goes into? Do you have matching case?
beautiful work
Im not sure what the point of this case is, i have a 4TB T9 and its very durable without a case. But it looks cool. Larry
badass
Gosh, that Anero type is cool. So is the case. How much part tolerance do you leave where parts fit together, to ensure they slide freely in?
We usually start with a difference of 0.2 mm, but materials and print orientation can make a difference on how loose/tight things end up being, so you can't really avoid physical testing with any design. The hinge spine insert on the T7 project is a pretty tight fit; with the model of the shaft set at 6 mm wide, longitudinally; and the slot it goes into is specced at 6.02 mm wide. It's a tight fit, but note that the shaft has a tendency to warp a little when the heatset insert is pressed in, and the PLA bubbles up around the insert a bit (which we do file down and clean up before assembly to ensure fit).
@@batchresearchlab right, it depends on printer calibration sometimes too, hence the question.
I imagine heat inserts add another level of consideration to the entire process. Thanks for the info.
bambulab printers with bad functional layer adhesion, a tale as old as time.
what program did you use to make the files?
wanting to make ammo/ magazine holders
We used Shapr3D for the 3D modeling.
what is the tool you are using to press the M3 screw holder into the print? I can't find it on the market
It's a 'heat set insert press/tool'. The type that we used for this project is really just a standard soldering iron with thread-on brass tips that are sized to fit the heat set inserts, but the 90 degree armature really helps to make sure that the pressure is applied evenly and perpendicular to the surface.
Is that test pattern for the laser proprietary or something publicly available?
Whoops, thanks for the reminder! I was supposed to clean that up and post it. We do have an older version of that test posted somewhere, but we've since revised it. Give us a little bit, then check the 'Files' section in the accordion at the bottom of the landing page.
Okay, check it now; I've posted a link to the xTool file we set up for the filament parameter test shown in the landing page write up (the one on the test plate).
@@batchresearchlab Thanks! I'll have to see if I can open it bc I have a different laser but I'll figure something out. FYI- The accordion section at the bottom of the page didn't work on mobile for some reason. May be worth testing.
The cyber Punk Future is Here! 😤
very cool
What is the etching machine used?
For most of this project, we used an xTool F1.
what laser engraver did you use ??
it XTool X1?
For this project, we mainly used an xTool F1
This looks so cool! How do you do the masking with the laser? Are you printing with multiple layers where you have the outer layer of green being lasered away to reveal the lighter colored layer underneath?
Actually, the project parts in this video are printed in just one type/color of filament; and in this case, when the laser makes contact with the material, it's bubbling and foaming it at a microscopic level. You can actually feel the slight relief of the plastic when you run your fingers across the surface. The trick to accomplishing this is to control the duration the laser is making contact with the surface. For some materials/filaments the window between having no visible effect, and flat-out melting or burning the material can be very narrow. We've posted sample settings on certain materials in some of our shorts if you want to check them out. Here's a link to some more information about different types of laser marking:
www.permanentmarking.com/the-4-most-common-types-of-laser-marking/
(not affiliated, but we've found that link very helpful)
@@batchresearchlab Thanks for the information and I will definitely check out the shorts videos! I had no idea you could get that kind of color contrast by just engraving the filament directly. Well, I know what I'm doing this evening :)
Videos like this are why TH-cam remains the GOAT. I will try this myself soon, with wood. 3D printing is expensive where I am.
maybe if TH-cam stopped shoving massive quantities of ads down our throats they'd be the GOAT. As it stands I can barely get through a single video anymore.
@@AnomalousVixel Brave browser. Thank me later.
I’m confused as to how the laser changes the color of the print
It might be easier to think about it as the laser bubbling (foaming), melting, or burning the plastic (depending on the settings and material you use). The color of the plastic changes because of the reaction taking place, but we don't necessarily have much control as to what color that ends up being (though some materials allow a range of that effect to work with). We have another video that may provide a bit more insight:
th-cam.com/video/NQEGXvpRVDE/w-d-xo.html
Here's another link that might help explain what's happening:
www.permanentmarking.com/the-4-most-common-types-of-laser-marking/
22mm as a screw length is a lot more common than 23mm
Yeah....haha😅...we figured that out after the fact. I think we were able to change it everywhere else, but we can't change the video audio once it's up🤷🏽♂️. Hopefully we haven't confused too many people. Thank you for letting us know👍🏼.
Did you use PLA or ABS?
So far, we've used PLA for this design; standard PLA, some matte PLA, and some PLA Pro during experimentation.
@@batchresearchlab Sounds good, Thanks for the answer! But just watch out as PLA is not quite resistant, if this needs to protect what's inside and you want to make it truly heavy duty i highly recommend some more tough materials :)
Thank you for the thoughts🙏🏼🙇🏾♂️ . Since this started out mainly as an aesthetic design exercise, we initially used just what we had on hand. But as it became more 'real', then we began to think more about function. As we move into experimenting with more durable materials such as styrenes and polyethylenes, we'll need to be a bit more cautious around fumes especially was we begin laser marking tests with those materials as well.
@@batchresearchlab I must say, now i want a Laser engraver after looking at your videos. It truly ads quite some nice detail to the prints!
okay but why does the hard drive case say "SSD only" on it
The limited edition cases shipped with two different bases. One of those bases had neodymium magnets embedded into it, which would have been detrimental to older, magnetic drives.
Isn't this an SSD? "Hard Drive" is not correct if so.
You are absolutely correct 🙇🏾♂️. Thank you.
@batchresearchlab I catch myself saying Hard Drive occasionally. SSDs are "relatively" new, so old habits die hard.
I don't get the point of making a case for a portable drive that already has a case. Why not make it for a regular SSD or even an actual hard drive?
Nice commercial for something useless.
what laser cutter is that?
we primarily used an xTool F1 for this project