All you have to do is, simply remove the air filter box and bracket above it.. for changing the belt . Look at other detailed videos .. again for simple belt change ... remove air box. Easy peazy breezy
I have 2016 bmw x6 N55 engine also, So far replaced the valve cover,could have probably just change the gasket but I did the entire cover, few months later my a/c compressor went. Now I’m hear a little more noise than normal considering replacing the tensor, idle pulley and belt.
man I see you're following in my footsteps.. 😂😂 depends on your miles on the car but I did valve cover, OFHG, belt with pulley and idler, all while the compressor was out. all following the ancient saying "while in there..." 😂😂
@@BONDGarage lol yeah bro I should’ve done it then, Going place the order for the parts and try do the job myself hopefully it’s a nice little project and doesn’t turn into being a pain in my ass lol.
if you just move the lines around no. meaning you disconnect them from any brakes that hold them. but if you open the system then yes, you'll have to recharge it.
Hey so i have the same engine i noticed that you only replaced one of the idler pulleys. Is replacing the lower idler recommended when doing this as well? I purchased the kit from FCP and it included both idlers tensioner and belt
There are 2 versions of the N55 serpentine belt setup. If your car has the Dynamic Drive (S229A) or Adaptive Drive (S2VAA) options, you have the extra idler pulley (to power those options). Both kits are available at fcp.
Have the x drive version and needed to change the oil pan gasket. Literally had to take alot of parts off like the pulley and loosen the ac compressor for hidden bolts. Now sometimes when it rains, I get a squeak so I will have to replace the both the idler and secondary pulley
Excellent video, but where did the bracket and cooler lines blocking the idler pulley magically disappear to, then magically reappear at the end of the job? This is the part I'm at now.
Crazy enough I was doing this job tonight. It looks like he removed the lines all together and then replaced them. I on the other hand just moved lines out the way and finally got it and bolt to seat. My only problem now is routing this tight ass belt around. I have x drive which means I have a power steering pump to loop around which is honestly seems impossible now. Good luck
I removed a bunch of other parts. Fixing multiple things while in there. It's doable with the ac lines in but you have to loosen that one bold that holds them. And even then it's still tight and challenging but possible
haven't had the pleasure of replacing mine but seen a couple videos on N55s in 3series. not identical car but same engine. that may be the best starting point.
Hello, thank you for the great video. Would you happen to know how many lbs of torque did you use to tighten the tensioner bolt and the idler pulley bolt?
not sure. usually there is a balance between bending your fingers into pretzels to reach places and making space y removing everything in the way. have you had any luck with it?
the tensioner arm shouldn't move. Unless you use a tool to release the tension as you did when replacing the belt. If the tensioner arm moves/vibrates while the engine is running it is defective. It should be steady.
All you have to do is, simply remove the air filter box and bracket above it.. for changing the belt . Look at other detailed videos .. again for simple belt change ... remove air box. Easy peazy breezy
I have 2016 bmw x6 N55 engine also, So far replaced the valve cover,could have probably just change the gasket but I did the entire cover, few months later my a/c compressor went. Now I’m hear a little more noise than normal considering replacing the tensor, idle pulley and belt.
man I see you're following in my footsteps.. 😂😂 depends on your miles on the car but I did valve cover, OFHG, belt with pulley and idler, all while the compressor was out. all following the ancient saying "while in there..." 😂😂
@@BONDGarage lol yeah bro I should’ve done it then, Going place the order for the parts and try do the job myself hopefully it’s a nice little project and doesn’t turn into being a pain in my ass lol.
Im afraid to disconnect the AC lines to allow access to the idler pulley. Will refrigerant leak when I disconnect those lines?
if you just move the lines around no. meaning you disconnect them from any brakes that hold them. but if you open the system then yes, you'll have to recharge it.
Hey so i have the same engine i noticed that you only replaced one of the idler pulleys. Is replacing the lower idler recommended when doing this as well? I purchased the kit from FCP and it included both idlers tensioner and belt
There are 2 versions of the N55 serpentine belt setup. If your car has the Dynamic Drive (S229A) or Adaptive Drive (S2VAA) options, you have the extra idler pulley (to power those options). Both kits are available at fcp.
learned something. thank you!
Have the x drive version and needed to change the oil pan gasket. Literally had to take alot of parts off like the pulley and loosen the ac compressor for hidden bolts. Now sometimes when it rains, I get a squeak so I will have to replace the both the idler and secondary pulley
Oh boy, I'm glad to not have the xDrive. Makes things apparently a lot easier. But at least you get to put down power from a standstill..
Is "8K1478" also compatible replacement belt for 2011 535I-xDrive?
Depends if you have dynamic drive or adaptive drive.
Otherwise 8pk1390
You probably don’t need the info anymore but for anyone who reads it lol
I got 2011 5353i xdrive
My coolant keep kicking in on high
Do in know what causing the problem?
could have a couple of reasons. codes would always be helpful
Excellent video, but where did the bracket and cooler lines blocking the idler pulley magically disappear to, then magically reappear at the end of the job? This is the part I'm at now.
Crazy enough I was doing this job tonight. It looks like he removed the lines all together and then replaced them. I on the other hand just moved lines out the way and finally got it and bolt to seat. My only problem now is routing this tight ass belt around. I have x drive which means I have a power steering pump to loop around which is honestly seems impossible now. Good luck
I removed a bunch of other parts. Fixing multiple things while in there. It's doable with the ac lines in but you have to loosen that one bold that holds them. And even then it's still tight and challenging but possible
Can someone anyone refer me to a vid or link that has someone removing the alternator from the f10. Cant find one anywhere ... specifically 535i
haven't had the pleasure of replacing mine but seen a couple videos on N55s in 3series. not identical car but same engine. that may be the best starting point.
Can you tell me what size of key will work to move tensioner because i have to change on serpentine belt
should say in the description. I believe it was a T60
You’re awesome dude thanks 🙏
Thank you!!
Nice video
Thank you
Thank you for the video ! Very clear to understand and detailed explanation.
Will this work for bmw 535i xdrive ?
I don't see why not
Hello, thank you for the great video. Would you happen to know how many lbs of torque did you use to tighten the tensioner bolt and the idler pulley bolt?
i listed the torque specs in the video description in Nm. would use a google converter to calculate them in lb-ft
man this literally my 3rd time breaking it
how?
hey bond, is there a way to access the alternator bolts without taking off A/C lines ???
not sure. usually there is a balance between bending your fingers into pretzels to reach places and making space y removing everything in the way. have you had any luck with it?
@@BONDGarage I had to remove the oil filter housing 🥴, only took a couple minutes. originally I was trying to avoid that.
i replaced the serpentine belt today. belt belt looks good, car runs good. only question is though should the tensioner have any movement?
the tensioner arm shouldn't move. Unless you use a tool to release the tension as you did when replacing the belt. If the tensioner arm moves/vibrates while the engine is running it is defective. It should be steady.
Tensioner will always move.
There is no information on how to remove the bracket in front of the idler pulley. That's the hardest part of the job!
that plastic piece? if yes, that just pops off with a flat head screwdriver.
@@BONDGarageno, not the cap, the bracket that holds the AC hoses.