Started a side job as a small engine repair business last year. Took off more than I expected. Just built a new shop to keep up with demand. Going to expand capabilities here soon and buy a mill. Started tinkering with machining a couple years ago in our machine shop at work on night shift and learned a little bit. Can't wait to teach myself some new stuff at home now.
Right on Alex, that's what I like to hear, success stories in small businesses. You will enjoy and use the machines every day. If you don't have them......you make do, if you have them, you make money.
Hey Dean, you know it man. Been doing a lot that I don't even show. The Bridgeport as worn out as it is still cuts a nice hole. It is a joy to run. Trying to keep cool......it aint workin though!
I don't have a boring head the quality of a Criterion. I have a Shars, with hand ground boring bars. I have not yet tried boring a cylinder, but I think I could, with honing to finish. My brother's Cub Cadet Side-By-Side engine is in need of rebuild, so that may become my guinea pig. I have a big Lagun FTV-2S, with NMTB-40 collet, so it should work just fine. (I hope).
Hey nothing wrong with the import heads, I have one too, I just like the Criterion better. My point is the Mesa tool bit I use just won't fit the imports, it is a very ridged tool bit and that is why I like it, very little flex. The one really great thing about the Criterion is it is direct reading, dial in a .001 and you cut a .001. Sounds like a great project and you will have no problems getting it done on the Lagun. Thanks for hanging out with me in the shop.
@@montana2strokeracer The boring head I got also has the direct reading (so I don't have to treat it like my lathe and remember RADIUS DUMMY). At least if I make a calculation error on the boring head, it's only half the error, not double 🙂
Do you happen to know if the 64mm dia bore TS185ER and the 70mm dia bore bigger brother TS250ER share the identical same connecting rod piston pin to small end "cage and roller bearings" ?? I suspect even the TF125 farm bike will use the same part numbered cage and roller bearings for the piston pin.
I don't have any info on the ER series bikes, the older 185 and 250 TS models (say 1980) use different part numbers. Don't think the TF was imported to the states.
1979 Hum! Dale your getting very close to the dark side of 1980. need to be careful. got to love 1969-1974 Japaneese era bikes the best at least for me.
Yeah, I know, I'm not sure I want to go into the 80's, that's when they started wanting to water cool everything. Water cool on a dirt bike, is like an elevator in an outhouse...don't belong. My humble opinion.
Yeah, I know, spent some time at Nellis a few years back. The heat out there is relentless. Thats one reason I stayed here, but I can't seem to get away from it. I think our weather pattern will change back the way it used to be soon. I will like that.
@@montana2strokeracer yeah crazy heat, been wanting to do some exteriour house painting, but the paint can says no hotter than 90 deg,so i wait and wait, and wait!!
Good question and one I get quite often. This is a problem for me for usually 250cc and up, when the cylinder length is about 5.5 inches. As you know the Bridgeport only has a 5-inch quill travel. Here is what I do. I let the automatic feed go to 5 inches, when it stops. I raise the quill about 3/4 inch, then raise the knee about the same. Then I turn the feed back on and it finishes the bore. I have never had a line in the cylinder where I do this, but if there was, you would just hone it out when you fit the piston. I just did a bore like this and discussed this procedure when I bored the Yamaha 250 MX. You might look that one up, it was just in the last month or so. Thanks for hanging out in the shop with me. th-cam.com/video/_lsqIeexqbU/w-d-xo.html
Hey, Dale. What cutter do you use in that Mesa Tool boring cutter? They now offer a similar cutter with adjustable offset to fit most 2”-2.5” boring heads so I want to give it a go. The cutter comes with one X CCMT-32.51 insert so I’m curious to know what cutter you use so I can order a few as well. Thanks!
Thanks, Dale! That’s the exact insert the attachment from Mesa Tool comes with. The updated attachment is adjustable up to 3/4” of an inch to fit oddball import boring heads. I ordered the attachment yesterday and can’t wait to try it out next week!
Hi Keith, I wish I could, but I have never worked on one, I am boring a cylinder, but I don't have the whole bike. Try one of the Suzuki forums on Facebook, they are a good source of info like that.
@@gregslair4278 No, the X, Y, Z axis has nothing to do with the bore size. That is all controlled on the boring head. The only reason to zero out is so if you bump or have to move X, Y, or Z. I move Z during the bore to check the bore progress often. Never had to move X or Y. If you were to move X, or Y you would no longer be centered with the spindle, so you would be boring off center.
@@montana2strokeracer Ok, didn't quite understand if the dro would be beneficial. So like in this video, you just take a hair off at a time. Very good info to know. Thank you.
Well Jim at least you're at the party. Lots of fun things going on around here as you know. This heat has got to go though, its crowding out the desire for me to play in the shop, and I don't like that. Thanks for hanging out with me.
In this video I was using my old Bridgeport, I ran it at 135 rpm and .0015, just so I wouldn't have to change the machine belt. On my new Jet, I run it at 225 rpm and .0015, for it is variable speed.... easy to adjust.
![ร้อยพ่อพันแม่ - WanMai [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XY2pNYASEbg/mqdefault.jpg)
Love the machine working, no music is perfect. Great video.
Thank you, I sure enjoy the machine work, I agree......music don't belong in these type videos.
Started a side job as a small engine repair business last year. Took off more than I expected. Just built a new shop to keep up with demand. Going to expand capabilities here soon and buy a mill. Started tinkering with machining a couple years ago in our machine shop at work on night shift and learned a little bit. Can't wait to teach myself some new stuff at home now.
Right on Alex, that's what I like to hear, success stories in small businesses. You will enjoy and use the machines every day. If you don't have them......you make do, if you have them, you make money.
Some crazy weather. Boring them takes a lot of time. Thanks for sharing brother.
Yes, this heat sucks the big one. Most bores take a little over hour and half for me. I'm sure really machinists can cut that time considerably.
Ha! First for a change!! And especially appropriate for this cylinder!! Thanks, Dale!!!
Jim you got to be quick around here. These guys are like lightning.
The Bridgeport certainly earns it's keep Dale. Stay cool my friend!
Best wishes, Dean.
Hey Dean, you know it man. Been doing a lot that I don't even show. The Bridgeport as worn out as it is still cuts a nice hole. It is a joy to run. Trying to keep cool......it aint workin though!
I don't have a boring head the quality of a Criterion. I have a Shars, with hand ground boring bars. I have not yet tried boring a cylinder, but I think I could, with honing to finish. My brother's Cub Cadet Side-By-Side engine is in need of rebuild, so that may become my guinea pig. I have a big Lagun FTV-2S, with NMTB-40 collet, so it should work just fine. (I hope).
Hey nothing wrong with the import heads, I have one too, I just like the Criterion better. My point is the Mesa tool bit I use just won't fit the imports, it is a very ridged tool bit and that is why I like it, very little flex. The one really great thing about the Criterion is it is direct reading, dial in a .001 and you cut a .001. Sounds like a great project and you will have no problems getting it done on the Lagun. Thanks for hanging out with me in the shop.
@@montana2strokeracer The boring head I got also has the direct reading (so I don't have to treat it like my lathe and remember RADIUS DUMMY). At least if I make a calculation error on the boring head, it's only half the error, not double 🙂
@@JohnnieBravo1 right on!
Great job that's awesome
hi, Kevin frank in las vegas. what great work Dale does!
Thanks Frank, Kevins pounding them out right now, got several new projects going, keep tuned to his channel.
Thanks Kevin, your busy lately too. Hope you don't have the heat that we have, Arrrrrrggggg
Hi, Dale i have been a fan of Kevin for a long time. love both you guys, different format but full of valuable information.@@montana2strokeracer
Thank you be cool.
Thank you, Eugene, I sure appreciate you watching.
Do you happen to know if the 64mm dia bore TS185ER and the 70mm dia bore bigger brother TS250ER share the identical same connecting rod piston pin to small end "cage and roller bearings" ?? I suspect even the TF125 farm bike will use the same part numbered cage and roller bearings for the piston pin.
I don't have any info on the ER series bikes, the older 185 and 250 TS models (say 1980) use different part numbers. Don't think the TF was imported to the states.
@@montana2strokeracer ..thank you :)
1979 Hum! Dale your getting very close to the dark side of 1980. need to be careful. got to love 1969-1974 Japaneese era bikes the best at least for me.
Yeah, I know, I'm not sure I want to go into the 80's, that's when they started wanting to water cool everything. Water cool on a dirt bike, is like an elevator in an outhouse...don't belong. My humble opinion.
104 degrees, thats a spring day here in las vegas. i got solar elect bill is always $13.12 a month.
Yeah, I know, spent some time at Nellis a few years back. The heat out there is relentless. Thats one reason I stayed here, but I can't seem to get away from it. I think our weather pattern will change back the way it used to be soon. I will like that.
@@montana2strokeracer yeah crazy heat, been wanting to do some exteriour house painting, but the paint can says no hotter than 90 deg,so i wait and wait, and wait!!
@@montana2strokeracer could always jump into the Sun river its close!
What do you do in the event you run out of stroke on the mill before the boring bar is completely through…….steve
Good question and one I get quite often. This is a problem for me for usually 250cc and up, when the cylinder length is about 5.5 inches. As you know the Bridgeport only has a 5-inch quill travel.
Here is what I do. I let the automatic feed go to 5 inches, when it stops. I raise the quill about 3/4 inch, then raise the knee about the same. Then I turn the feed back on and it finishes the bore. I have never had a line in the cylinder where I do this, but if there was, you would just hone it out when you fit the piston. I just did a bore like this and discussed this procedure when I bored the Yamaha 250 MX. You might look that one up, it was just in the last month or so. Thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
th-cam.com/video/_lsqIeexqbU/w-d-xo.html
Hey, Dale. What cutter do you use in that Mesa Tool boring cutter? They now offer a similar cutter with adjustable offset to fit most 2”-2.5” boring heads so I want to give it a go. The cutter comes with one X CCMT-32.51 insert so I’m curious to know what cutter you use so I can order a few as well. Thanks!
Hi there, I think you are referring to the insert, I use one that is made for cast iron, TPGB 321, Interstate, the MSC number is 112369109
Thanks, Dale! That’s the exact insert the attachment from Mesa Tool comes with. The updated attachment is adjustable up to 3/4” of an inch to fit oddball import boring heads. I ordered the attachment yesterday and can’t wait to try it out next week!
Awesome, best of luck with it.
Hi Dale, can you please tell me what size magneto puller I need for my 1979 suzuki ts er . Thanks Keith
Hi Keith, I wish I could, but I have never worked on one, I am boring a cylinder, but I don't have the whole bike. Try one of the Suzuki forums on Facebook, they are a good source of info like that.
Can someone help me and tell me where I can get a toolholder for boring like the one in the video
Hi the tool holder is a 2 inch Criterian boring head. The boring tool is made by Mesa tools. Try mesatools.com
Excellent as always. what do you set your dro too after zeroing out?
Hi Greg, nothing...I zero it out so if I bump something or I have to move one of the axis, I have a zero point to return to.
@@montana2strokeracer Could you not use the dro to tell you how much your going to take off?
@@gregslair4278 No, the X, Y, Z axis has nothing to do with the bore size. That is all controlled on the boring head. The only reason to zero out is so if you bump or have to move X, Y, or Z. I move Z during the bore to check the bore progress often. Never had to move X or Y. If you were to move X, or Y you would no longer be centered with the spindle, so you would be boring off center.
@@montana2strokeracer Ok, didn't quite understand if the dro would be beneficial. So like in this video, you just take a hair off at a time. Very good info to know. Thank you.
I could be first today Dale 😊.
LOL, we probably both hit 'enter' at the same time or seconds apart. Usually I am a few days late to the party.
Well Jim at least you're at the party. Lots of fun things going on around here as you know. This heat has got to go though, its crowding out the desire for me to play in the shop, and I don't like that. Thanks for hanging out with me.
Hey Larry, way to go, nice to see all my regulars here, and all new folks are certainly welcome too. Thanks for hanging out with me.
Hey brother
Hey Cain, slowing down I see
What S.F.M. Are you running the boring bar at ?
In this video I was using my old Bridgeport, I ran it at 135 rpm and .0015, just so I wouldn't have to change the machine belt. On my new Jet, I run it at 225 rpm and .0015, for it is variable speed.... easy to adjust.
Dale not being a machinest myself, have you ever gone over to much on a bore out? if so abfer a few swear words is the only fix going up in size?
Not yet, I assure you I take great care not to. The only fix is bigger or a sleeve.