Reed to solve the problem I had with my band saw was to drill an 1" hole directly below the blade in the removable cover about an inch from the bottom. This solved my problem. Thanks for good instructions, Bill
I like your videos as good as any I've seen I love the way you go into detail I hope all is well an hoping you can start posting again thank you for the one's that are already on here I've seen them all
To TKarlmann, If you stop and think about sawing, there is a difference between cross cutting and ripping. Cross cutting goes across the grain, and on dry wood you do get dust, not shavings. With ripping, you are cutting with the grain, and on kiln dried wood, you will get dust, mostly anyway. On air dried lumber or solar kiln dried lumber, or on green wood, which is what I work with, you get long ribbons of shavings. Same shavings if you rip a log down the length with a chainsaw.... The planer only gives you shavings when you have air dried or solar kiln dried lumber. Other than that it is chips. Some woodworkers have shops, some have studios. I have a shop...
Hey hippy just a idea to run by ya go to a plumbing store or Lowe's , an get a rubber step down furnco fitting --then go to an auto parts get a radiator hose with a built in curve to put in the front of the bottom wheel---that might pick up the dust
Logically, the best place for a dust collection vent would be directly below where the dust falls. ie. in the base of the bandsaw. If an air entry port is then provided adjacent to the cutting point, then the dust flow would automatically follow the air path. Over the years, I've found a tenon saw the best for cutting PVC pipes, as it has small teeth. When cutting thin material, its best to have a minimum of three teeth in contact with the material.
Yup, dust ports on my Laguna suck. (well they don't) I was thinking about this the other day and I think it needs opposite air inflow almost equal to the outflow to cause a draft to the suction plus an arrow dynamic airflow as you have it.
@@dwightl5863 I've used a cheap Magnum Industrial saw that has just a 4" dust port on the rear panel, bottom right corner. The lower cabinet is not airtight, and the dust collection ends up pulling air in under the door, and across the floor of the cabinet, which removes almost every single grain of sawdust as it falls to the bottom. If you leave the collection off, sawdust will start to spill out onto the frame, and you can see it get sucked back into the cabinet when you turn the dust collector on. I bet Powermatic and Laguna pride themselves on having such tightly fitting components, while the cheaper Magnum accidentally works better.
I believe it is quite possible. Square bottom of the saw, and the corners will be a dead air flow area. Not sure if having a round bottom to the cabinet would help much or not. For sure, there is a lot of open area under the table as well.
I build custom, solid body, electric guitars and basses in my shop. All my wood is at least 4 years air dried, or kiln dried and 2 years air dried, averages around 4% to 8% and even with 4" duct to my dust collector I still have poor dust collection. Making a plenum to fit the table bottom tightly and solve the problem.
Yes, there is a lot of open spaces so the airflow isn't properly directed, I guess that is one way of saying it. I haven't tried to close off the side where the blade goes up. Maybe use some foam.
Oh, I am a closet guitar player. Started playing when the Beatles came out. Still no good, but I have fun. Wanted a good guitar and rather then buy one from the store, found a guy locally to make me one. We became friends. I will never be able to play like Jeff Beck...
Luckily my hose collects at the right bottom of bottom wheel housing. I am going to reduce the hose for more velocity when I get time. Even 2 1/2 hose seems some what too large to what is needed. I reduced hose on other saws and they would much better.
Hi Reed! Thank you for sharing this info my friend! I guess we can officially say that your band saw dust collector ports, now, really suck! Cheers! Daniel
+Pete G I don't know that the wheels create any turbulence, but for sure, the blade moving through the box drags a lot of wood and air with it. Part of the reason why the ports right at the lower blade guides works so poorly.
+Jim E You can maybe get away with it, but, cutting larger round stock, unless you are ripping (not cross cutting) it down the middle, is dangerous. Main reason is that there is no support under the wood or PVC in this case, and the blade action will make it roll with the cut, which bends or breaks your blades. Yea, if you have a death grip on it, you probably could do it. Same with cross cutting round stock. Round stock can be done if you have a V grooved sled that supports the log to keep it from rolling. Just trying to push it through by hand, well, I did that once...
Way better solution to dust collection on bandsaws. There are several good videos on how to collect sawdust from directly below the table. Up to 95% collection. Two good videos would be from Rob Cosman and Weber Woodshop. Just type Bandsaw dust collection search in TH-cam. Did it on my bandsaw and I get only a teaspoon full of dust in the lower and upper cabinets conbined. Really!
Seems like that is a lot of work that still does not do the job completely. Meaning, you have to open them up and vaccum it out either way. So why go through all that, just clean up you work every few uses.
+Jon Lanier Jon, well, if you want to clean out your saw every day, you can. With this dust port, I can cut for days or weeks without the saw plugging up. You probably can never get it all though.
robohippy And some had dads when growin up who you didn't want to make unhappy if you didn't do what he told you. lol And now do it because of habit. Probably the pavlov dog thing.
Why not vaccum it out after each use. That seems like a week or more worth of accumulated shavings. All the woodworking tools know create saw dust and none have complete dust removal systems. Maybe saw dust is an indication you've actually been woodworking.
Ramon, That amount of shaving accumulation in the big bandsaw is maybe an hour of work. With production work, I generate way more waste than other people do, and that is a big bandsaw. That type of shaving also will not vacuum up. The thing is that I want to be able to put in hours and not have to stop and clean out the inside of the bandsaw a couple of times each work session. Dry wood is a minimal problem as a dust collector is able to grab just about every thing.
Reed to solve the problem I had with my band saw was to drill an 1" hole directly below the blade in the removable cover about an inch from the bottom. This solved my problem. Thanks for good instructions, Bill
I like your videos as good as any I've seen I love the way you go into detail I hope all is well an hoping you can start posting again thank you for the one's that are already on here I've seen them all
To TKarlmann, If you stop and think about sawing, there is a difference between cross cutting and ripping. Cross cutting goes across the grain, and on dry wood you do get dust, not shavings. With ripping, you are cutting with the grain, and on kiln dried wood, you will get dust, mostly anyway. On air dried lumber or solar kiln dried lumber, or on green wood, which is what I work with, you get long ribbons of shavings. Same shavings if you rip a log down the length with a chainsaw.... The planer only gives you shavings when you have air dried or solar kiln dried lumber. Other than that it is chips. Some woodworkers have shops, some have studios. I have a shop...
Hey hippy just a idea to run by ya go to a plumbing store or Lowe's , an get a rubber step down furnco fitting --then go to an auto parts get a radiator hose with a built in curve to put in the front of the bottom wheel---that might pick up the dust
Some great tips Reed, and a very effective solution to an age old problem.
Take care
Mike
Logically, the best place for a dust collection vent would be directly below where the dust falls. ie. in the base of the bandsaw. If an air entry port is then provided adjacent to the cutting point, then the dust flow would automatically follow the air path. Over the years, I've found a tenon saw the best for cutting PVC pipes, as it has small teeth. When cutting thin material, its best to have a minimum of three teeth in contact with the material.
Great idea, cant wait to try it. Also maybe some weatherstripping around the door to create better "sucking" action! Thanks for sharing
Yup, dust ports on my Laguna suck. (well they don't)
I was thinking about this the other day and I think it needs opposite air inflow almost equal to the outflow to cause a draft to the suction plus an arrow dynamic airflow as you have it.
That's what I'm thinking. Trying to suck air out of a closed container results in little air movement.
@@dwightl5863 I've used a cheap Magnum Industrial saw that has just a 4" dust port on the rear panel, bottom right corner. The lower cabinet is not airtight, and the dust collection ends up pulling air in under the door, and across the floor of the cabinet, which removes almost every single grain of sawdust as it falls to the bottom. If you leave the collection off, sawdust will start to spill out onto the frame, and you can see it get sucked back into the cabinet when you turn the dust collector on. I bet Powermatic and Laguna pride themselves on having such tightly fitting components, while the cheaper Magnum accidentally works better.
Thanks for the info. I’m wondering if the areas where chips build up are stagnant so maybe an air inlet is needed to supply air?
I believe it is quite possible. Square bottom of the saw, and the corners will be a dead air flow area. Not sure if having a round bottom to the cabinet would help much or not. For sure, there is a lot of open area under the table as well.
I build custom, solid body, electric guitars and basses in my shop. All my wood is at least 4 years air dried, or kiln dried and 2 years air dried, averages around 4% to 8% and even with 4" duct to my dust collector I still have poor dust collection. Making a plenum to fit the table bottom tightly and solve the problem.
Yes, there is a lot of open spaces so the airflow isn't properly directed, I guess that is one way of saying it. I haven't tried to close off the side where the blade goes up. Maybe use some foam.
Oh, I am a closet guitar player. Started playing when the Beatles came out. Still no good, but I have fun. Wanted a good guitar and rather then buy one from the store, found a guy locally to make me one. We became friends. I will never be able to play like Jeff Beck...
Like the star trek Reference. Cool video.
Great idea looking in to it.
Your Cordless saw Is also known as a Armstrong Brand . Great information.THANKS
+George Scott Well, in my old cars, I had power steering, Armstrong power steering....
The boot that attaches the saw is a standard boot for duct work for your home try your local big box store hvac supplier or local contractor.
Usually the ones intended for home use are not very heavy duty. I did find some from Oneida.
Luckily my hose collects at the right bottom of bottom wheel housing. I am going to reduce the hose for more velocity when I get time. Even 2 1/2 hose seems some what too large to what is needed. I reduced hose on other saws and they would much better.
Hi Reed! Thank you for sharing this info my friend! I guess we can officially say that your band saw dust collector ports, now, really suck! Cheers! Daniel
Do bandsaw wheels cause air turbulence and mess up the dust extraction? Has anyone tried covering the wheel in plastic to make it "solid" ?
+Pete G I don't know that the wheels create any turbulence, but for sure, the blade moving through the box drags a lot of wood and air with it. Part of the reason why the ports right at the lower blade guides works so poorly.
GREATcomment the trouble with tribbles!
A great modification, the dust extraction on my bandsaw is dreadful, the whole machine ain't great!
Looks like some good improvements.
Could you cut that PVC on a bandsaw? Both cuts at the same time. JimE
+Jim E You can maybe get away with it, but, cutting larger round stock, unless you are ripping (not cross cutting) it down the middle, is dangerous. Main reason is that there is no support under the wood or PVC in this case, and the blade action will make it roll with the cut, which bends or breaks your blades. Yea, if you have a death grip on it, you probably could do it. Same with cross cutting round stock. Round stock can be done if you have a V grooved sled that supports the log to keep it from rolling. Just trying to push it through by hand, well, I did that once...
+robohippy Thanks.
@@robohippy nodding...and once is about all it takes, then hopefully you count yourself lucky for being lucky :)
Way better solution to dust collection on bandsaws. There are several good videos on how to collect sawdust from directly below the table. Up to 95% collection. Two good videos would be from Rob Cosman and Weber Woodshop.
Just type Bandsaw dust collection search in TH-cam.
Did it on my bandsaw and I get only a teaspoon full of dust in the lower and upper cabinets conbined. Really!
This is good stuff. Thank you.
Seems like that is a lot of work that still does not do the job completely. Meaning, you have to open them up and vaccum it out either way. So why go through all that, just clean up you work every few uses.
+Jon Lanier Jon, well, if you want to clean out your saw every day, you can. With this dust port, I can cut for days or weeks without the saw plugging up. You probably can never get it all though.
+Jon Lanier Well, some woodworkers have 'studios', and some of us have 'shops'......
robohippy And some had dads when growin up who you didn't want to make unhappy if you didn't do what he told you. lol
And now do it because of habit. Probably the pavlov dog thing.
Welders call that paper a wrap around.
Why not vaccum it out after each use. That seems like a week or more worth of accumulated shavings. All the woodworking tools know create saw dust and none have complete dust removal systems. Maybe saw dust is an indication you've actually been woodworking.
Ramon, That amount of shaving accumulation in the big bandsaw is maybe an hour of work. With production work, I generate way more waste than other people do, and that is a big bandsaw. That type of shaving also will not vacuum up. The thing is that I want to be able to put in hours and not have to stop and clean out the inside of the bandsaw a couple of times each work session. Dry wood is a minimal problem as a dust collector is able to grab just about every thing.
boy a lot of dumb comments here probably most of them don't even have a band saw