When you are drilling holes in concrete or rock for pinning rebar... Drill your hole about 20° off the intended angle of your rebar. Drive the rebar in to bottom it out (the tone will change) then bend your rebar (if possible with a pipe pushed to the mating surface) to the intended angle or position. This increases your pull-out strength immensely. the angle hole in a wall like you are doing also gets MORE rebar into the wall. It makes separation at the joint almost impossible. The poured concrete will bite the texture of the rebar but the drilled hole needs some mechanical help. This angle process is even stronger than gluing the rebar in... which you could still do if you like overkill. I do.
If I'm not mad mistaken that blackboard under that older model mobile home frame is asbestos board causes cancer you might want to look into it and wear a mask and a suit when handling that blackboard
I have the undesirable duty of taking our pets on the last ride to our vet. Our rule if our dogs or cats are in pain and our vet advises it is the more human choice. We have always been given time to say goodbye. It is never easy and there are always tears but we feel it is the most loving thing we can do for pets.
I am a retired structural engineer. Based on this video, I would advise you NOT to build a house on this retaining wall. The masonry looks to be 6” wide, which is too thin for a wall this high, and lacks reinforcing and grout fill in the cells. Since you have invested a lot (too much) of time and energy to save the wall, one possible solution , assuming there is a footing under the wall, would be to have a competent masonry contractor build a new retaining wall inside and against the existing wall, after first drilling and epoxying dowel bars into the slab, and adequately reinforcing the new wall both vertically and horizontally. At this point, you would be smart to get an engineer involved before you throw more good money after bad. Good luck!
Building an additional wall inside the existing wall would likely be just more problems as it's unlikely the existing footing extends that far inside the building.
You can sawcut the concrete and add a footing and dowel into the slab and then build on top. I’ve done it once, buy would rather not. In this situation, as others stated I would demo that slab entirely and re-pour based on what I’ve seen.
Never track along side of a basement with heavy equipment, you can drive up to it perpendicular to the wall, but never travel parallel as close as you are, and when lifting at the machine’s maximum capacity make sure you have the drives to the rear, there is an extra thousand pounds or so of counterweight with the drives to the rear versus the idlers.
Don't backfill until you have weight on the wall. At least the floor system, but the framing would be even better. Backfill puts an incredible amount of force on the outside of the wall. The weight and floor system will brace the top of the wall and keep it from moving. Concrete, mortar, etc. is so much stonger in compression than tension.
@@chuckdavis7681 especially doing it in lifts with a compactor and water going to bow those walls right out. I said the same thing in a little different way earlier.
There's a reason we never backfill basement wall foundation until the structure is up. And you guys learned it the hard way. Even properly built cement block walls can't withstand the pressure of backfill without the structure on top to support them. But live and learn you guys are doing the best you can and you'll get her done. Love your channel it's genuine!
@@Btstaz it’s the compaction and the weight of the equipment. You need to put more force on the dirt then what happens when it is just sitting there. If this was a new wall built to current code using small equipment, it would be fine at a single story but it isn’t. We always put our decks down before we backfill even shored walls unless we specifically engineer for the surcharge imposed by compaction and the equipment. This problem also comes up when we have soil engineers that insist we hit 95 percent compaction behind retaining walls vs. 90&. We always issue an RFI confirming the wall is engineered for it as we have had many walls knocked over or cracked getting that last 2 or 3 percent and need a CYA so we don’t pay to replace them.
Well, it would definitely help A LOT if the foundation walls were more than 8" thick! I don't think I have ever framed a house on a foundation less than 12" and they are using 14-18" thick, and I don't know what the rebar schedule was spec'ed out for but I doubt it was anywhere near what we would use today, which would have probably helped tremendously!
Most block layers build the corners first which takes the most time. You need enough end blocks in a pallet to build a corner up about 7 or 8 courses. Once you have two corners completed, you can fly laying the center blocks just using a string and a small level. End blocks can be used in the place of the mid-blocks, but not the other way around, so no one will ever know that end blocks were used in the middle of the wall. Corners take the most time because that's where you have to level in two directions while maintaining the correct thickness of the mortor supporting it. Andy is doing a great job. It's harder than it looks.
Tear down the whole thing. From a European point of view, this thin and skinny walls are actually rediculous. A foundation should at least be twice as thick and filled with rebar before filled with high quality concrete!
Fully agree. That foundation was built cheaply 50 years ago to support a very cheap mobile home. No sense trying to make chicken salad out of chicken $h!+. Just do it correctly. It will be better and safer.
Uh this is not Europe. This is land that is actively settling eroding and burning. This is a manufactured home intended for a 30yr lifecycle. This is a turd in the forest.
You're not the only one to have spotted that one (and I'm sure many more). This project has become, more than anything else, illustrative of what happens whey you charge ahead without proper planning. Not everything can be resolved by watching TH-cam videos and hopefully the only result will be dealing with the false economies and not serious medical emergencies or death.
Drange for ground water must not be mixed with roof water. If a rainstorm fills your drain and can't swallow all the water it will flood your basement.
Each gutter down pipe can have its own drainage running away from the structure to the edge of the lawn. Bury about 1.5 feet down for zone 7 so it can be serviced.
Came to say the same thing. You don’t want to funnel your roof drains to the basement walls. They are having enough trouble staying dry. They don’t need a firehouse of additional water being directed to them.
@@justwordme I live in an adobe style, with no overhangs, a flat roof, and scuppers to take the water off the roof, and under the scuppers was drainage stone to direct that water away from the foundation to go over the concrete courtyard and into their drains which empty a good 50 feet away from the building. When I had gardeners out, they wanted to just create a HOLE to allow water to soak into the ground like 5 feet away from my foundation. I'm like, "Why aren't we using the existing drains? Undo all that and drain to there and don't let that water rest against the foundation!!" Grr.
Tear it all out and install ICF foundation. Whatever you do to existing foundation you will end up with a patchy end product. This will reflect in the long term value of house. Also ,this will allow you to expand and modify floor plan.
in this situation, you don't so much glue the drain pipes to stop the leaking, but to stop them coming apart, esp. when you drop the rocks on top... or if the soil shifts or settles over time...
1st mistake you made: removing the floor. You should have left it in place to support the foundation. Then dig around the foundation to install drainage, remove flooring, rebuild flooring, then backfill. As it stands now, scrap the entire thing and start new.
A friend 20 years ago took apart two mobile homes left on the land he purchaced to the steal frame and used the steel and put them in a new home a small rancher with a basement, also I was always taught to put in the floor joist before backfilling, this will lock the top of the walls in position.
Ah the world of internet house building, where every viewer is an expert and a critic because they would do it differently. (As if there was only one building code, and only one way things could possibly be done) Great job guys, looking forward to the next one!
The crack..you have 2 remedies..a cheap one, an expensive One..inject Epoxy or Polyethylene into the crack..with Ports and a high-pressure fluid pump..or build a 4 inch Concrete wall against it..pour it..on outside, as you are Doing , a Membrane, a Water shield, french drain and good grading that directs the water away from the House
ha! I just saw your comment after I wrote mine.. Yep Definitely a Perkins Brothers Builders things when i saw Ambition strikes lay down the brick stuff..
In NY we lay 10" or 12" block the solid blocks are full sash for basement windows or pillars, filling ever course would make it commercial grade, those 6" blocks are lightweight.
It's a good thing you took out all the old cinder blocks- it doesn't look like they used any rebar, nor did they fill with cement... I love that y'all decided to strip everything down to that original foundation wall... I think you would have kicked yourselves if you hadn't.
I don't think the original solid wall has rebar either. The old house was holding it up but this looks pretty sketch. I love watching these two but now I'm worried.
I am really enjoying this build! I understand it so much more than many new-fangled things you both do most of the time. This is how my husband and I built our house. Like Courtney, I did the waterproofing. Like C I had long red hair ( dark auburn). I got the tar mixture all in the tips of my braids lol. That wall is going to be up for hundreds of years. As usual, you are building it right.
A lot of critical comments, but I am really enjoying seeing this work! I'd like to think you've put more thought and validation into the overall approach, but please keep putting out the videos on this project!
NEVER get into a deep trench with a vertical wall. It's too common for the dirt above to slough off and bury you, and you'll be dead before a group even can dig you out. Always taper those dirt walls back from the edge to prevent it.
Tear it out and start over that's a house of cards waiting to blow down. It's amazing that mess lasted this long. No rebar, no concrete fill in the cells, what a hot mess.
No rebar in that concrete wall. You really should tear it down and redo it. Too much risk of you put anything substantial on top and want to it to last and be safe.
Don't forget to check with the county on building specks for the foundations so your don't wasting your time. So far I see things with the wall and the flooring joining. Also rebar down ceils before pouring the ceils.
Most important part of a home: Foundation. First thing I look at when buying a home: Foundation. There is no guarantee the footers or stem walls you saved were built correctly. How much money and headache would you save and how much would resale improve if you started over?
I always love your videos, but this one became even cooler when I heard you mention the Perkins Builders Brothers! In addition to being subscribed to your channel, and I am also subscribed to theirs! (I have learned so much from all of you.) It always amazes me how interconnected youtube can be at times.
Why would you have the excavator that close to the foundation wall ? I’m surprised the basement wall didn’t fall in with the excavator sitting right next to it. You are so lucky with all that weight.
26:45 Perkins Brothers are great, i have been watching them for a long while now. Recently, they were at a trade show, and were approached by a number of high school shop teachers who said they use Perkins Brothers videos in class.
I’m not a very smart man but seems like more work for what they did, should have ripped it all down and started over, the reason why the walls failed was because the footer was no good should have at least used 8” inch block and 10” inch if your going two stories
I might have missed the plan for the style of house, but if its going to be a stick frame house, instead of another modular, there will probably be foundation issues. That foundation was built for a modular that is lighter in weight than a stick frame or newer modular. But, maybe you have already talked with an engineer or the local building department about your plans. Here in wonderful California (love my location, dont love the politics), you aren't supposed to change out your front door without a permit, so that foundation wouldnt even be allowed to be used.
Holes in bottom of pipe explained. Water traveling down into the rock brings silt. Water rising up in the rocks and the holes does not carry the silt. The holes go at the bottom to limit silt in the pipe. Most silt is stopped by fabric now but the orientation of the holes hasn't changed. If you haven't scraped the floors yet, think of sizing them down to the width of a side by side and using them as bridge foundation around your property. This will help span any gultch/dry creak beds for your trails. Think about 4 foot termination walls along the open foundation on the lowered side. They will give the same rigidity to the side walls and leave the open side
Im a licensed contractor, that basement stem wall is not something i would put my company name on... There's a reason structural engineers earn their degrees through universities and not with a few hours of TH-cam videos! I'd at minimum get an engineer to help you retrofit (legally beef up) your floor structure...
There's ya problem, "universities", people learn from doing real work, not from sitting around in stuffy lecture theaters listening to lecturers droning on.....
@@MegaDirtyberty I suppose you wouldn't want a university trained Dentist or MD? How about a structural engineer for bridges or high rise buildings... 😂
@@danieloliver20 I suppose you only want someone working on your teeth or your venereal disease who has only ever learnt from books and watching youtube? How about if they have a book beside them reading what they should do when they are cutting your cancer out... 😂
It's very interesting to watch how you overcome challenges step by step and build the foundation for your home. Your perseverance and resourcefulness are commendable.
After this job, Reckless Riles will have to be renamed to Wrecking Riley. "Practice on somebody elses house. Not your own." A german saying is: Build your first house for your enemy, the second for a friend, and the last one for yourself. The point is, you make a lot of mistakes at first and get better with practice.
Pumicecrete is by far the best building material on the planet Pumicecrete is a mixture of pumice cement and water mixed and poured into a set of reusable forms walls are poured from 12"to to 34" thick pumicecrete is fireproof termite proof rust rot and mold proof non toxic and has a high R value and good sound attenuation solid poured walls means no critters can live in your walls Pumicecrete can be built for a fraction of the cost and time and pumice is one of the few building materials that can go directly from the mine to the job site ready to use without any additional possessing and zero waste Google all the walls of my house are made of pumicecrete Take and pumice and concrete pumicecrete structures Take care Ray It me know if you want more info The closest pumice mine is Hess pumice in Malad city ID
Andy you plumb. Don't let us down by not wearing your seatbelt. Come on lad! Love your work team. Watch your channel with my kids. Really inspirational, fun and educational.
amazing, ambitious progress. congrats! andy rocked laying the blocks and you guys have great friends, super good people helping you do what ye needed to do to have a stellar long lasting foundation. continued blessings.🕊
Retired licensed architect here. While I appreciate the DIY enthusiasm, there are many issues as others have pointed out. Are building permits required in Idaho? Even if this is considered a remodel, there are many practical considerations. Soils: what are the existing soils and bearing capacity? Existing footings: the size and steel reinforcing are unknown. Existing concrete foundation walls: 6" thick but steel reinforcing is unknown. CMU: rebuilt foundation wall without grouted cells or steel reinforcing ...not good. I don't know how many stories you plan to build above the re-built foundation, but this affects everything. Footing drains (not called french drains) need to be separate from roof drains as others have noted. Back-filling the foundation before the next floor is framed is a really bad idea ....the foundation wall is not designed to resist this load. In retrospect, I think it would have been useful to hire a structural engineer to advise before you began all this work. A main point is that YT is the wild-west ...anyone can post anything. The problem for newbies is that it can be very difficult to sort out the good info from the bad info.
honest question, does permitting get lax when you're out in the wilderness. I can understand needing it for the city but out in the woods when it's just you.. I could see why it might not be required?
@@johnnybgoode8104 It depends on the ‘politics’ of your area, no two areas alike it seems. I’ve lived in farm country back woods with strict zoning regs because they were hell bent on keeping it rural, while the county next door you could live under a couple shingles with a cot and an outhouse and invite your whole clan to build and join in. People always say better to ask forgiveness than permission, but when you are forced to tear down an unpermitted building pretty costly. I had a neighbor dig an unpermitted 4 acre pond on his land- he hit the water table and 6 wells nearby went dry. That was an expensive pond for him, lol. Most people don’t want government in their business on private property and I believe govt is too darn intrusive, but there are also cases where it is necessary to protect everyone’s property.
I can tell you building permits are still required in the location this is taking place, but as somebody who has family in the same area this video is taking place in, a lot of building happens without permits. I can tell you that this location is outside city limits but still falls within the restrictions of the county they live in, but is very, very lax about permit enforcement. @@johnnybgoode8104
The rules depend a lot on where (state, province, county, etc.) you are. As an example, we built a 150 sqft cabin in the woods and we needed a building permit. However if that same cabin would have been built on a property with an existing main house, we would have been allowed to build it without a permit. Just an example of how weird the rules sometimes are.
Why would you tie the downspouts into the french drain? You shouldn't put all of that rain water down at the footer of those walls. Your goal is to get water away from the foundation. I'd suggest you abandon that idea, cut off & cap the stand pipes, and do separate downspout pipes later if you want to carry rain water away from the finished grade.
Great stuff. You guys adapt to what you have...go out learn what you need and hit it hard. It IS the soul of your channel. I appreciate it. Look forward to the next installment.
You guys are amazing... i really did not see how you could fix things without a total rebuild... but... there it is - better than it was before. I always look forward to your updates... hang out for them in fact. Boon looks great and Oliver is walking so well now. keep well - keep building.
You really need a buttress on those side walls. That's a really big span for those skinny blocks. Dimple membrane is great. We did that on our new build with a french drain and our basement is bone dry even when the sump pump is running every 10 minutes!
Always love seeing your videos , very educative, I'm really blessed only God knows how much I praise him, getting $100k bi weekly and I’m retired now. I’ve got a good cash and can also support my family
I'm at a loss for words. Stupid, Lucky, Loving, Lucky, Unbelievable, etc. It's a damn good U guys aren't afraid of work. Ur enthusiasm is catching. Go for it kids. I'm 82, so you all is kids..... LOL It is usual to put the house on the wall before back filling especially with block walls. You could have utilized interior bracing. I wish you all the best. sorry i just went down and read some of the previous comments. They already said what few comments I added....
Yes, Riley, that mini ex has some real advantages in a tight environment! Looks like the Ambitious Construction Company is on another roll! Glad to see Boone back out on the trail.
Yea, I am several days late on this advice, but even back filled, you can still dig and set some dead men with tensioner cables to ensure the wall never pushes back in.
Great video.Your editing is very good. You could put these videos on TV and everyone would think they were production crew quality. Your new friends are incredibly nice folks, you are very lucky to attract such nice people to help you. I remember Being young and working that hard for fun. Now I just watch you amazing young people to get my vicarious fix. Thank you for doing these videos. I look forward to their release, and I watch your videos first on Sundays. Have fun
Deming, a business production analyst, studied teams and their rate of production. The stats revealed that for every doubling of outputs efficiency increased 10%. You have been producing all manner of “things” for years, and the efficiency of production in day 4 vs day 1 was striking. Kudos to your tenacity and can do attitudes.
Hit that like button if you think dogs should live forever! 🥹 Get 50% off your first order of Sundays with code AMBITION: sundaysfordogs.com/AMBITION
When you are drilling holes in concrete or rock for pinning rebar... Drill your hole about 20° off the intended angle of your rebar. Drive the rebar in to bottom it out (the tone will change) then bend your rebar (if possible with a pipe pushed to the mating surface) to the intended angle or position. This increases your pull-out strength immensely. the angle hole in a wall like you are doing also gets MORE rebar into the wall. It makes separation at the joint almost impossible. The poured concrete will bite the texture of the rebar but the drilled hole needs some mechanical help. This angle process is even stronger than gluing the rebar in... which you could still do if you like overkill. I do.
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If I'm not mad mistaken that blackboard under that older model mobile home frame is asbestos board causes cancer you might want to look into it and wear a mask and a suit when handling that blackboard
16:16 no rebar in the pour? WTF?
I have the undesirable duty of taking our pets on the last ride to our vet. Our rule if our dogs or cats are in pain and our vet advises it is the more human choice. We have always been given time to say goodbye. It is never easy and there are always tears but we feel it is the most loving thing we can do for pets.
I am a retired structural engineer. Based on this video, I would advise you NOT to build a house on this retaining wall. The masonry looks to be 6” wide, which is too thin for a wall this high, and lacks reinforcing and grout fill in the cells. Since you have invested a lot (too much) of time and energy to save the wall, one possible solution , assuming there is a footing under the wall, would be to have a competent masonry contractor build a new retaining wall inside and against the existing wall, after first drilling and epoxying dowel bars into the slab, and adequately reinforcing the new wall both vertically and horizontally. At this point, you would be smart to get an engineer involved before you throw more good money after bad. Good luck!
Building an additional wall inside the existing wall would likely be just more problems as it's unlikely the existing footing extends that far inside the building.
My thoughts exactly. Best to knock it down and start fresh.
You can sawcut the concrete and add a footing and dowel into the slab and then build on top. I’ve done it once, buy would rather not. In this situation, as others stated I would demo that slab entirely and re-pour based on what I’ve seen.
My favorite part about this channel is that it is a “what we are doing channel, not a how to do it channel!”
Definitely should be the official motto of the channel lol! Should be on t-shirts by now haha
Doing it "not quite right" generates tons of comments, which loads the algorithm for more views and $$$$$...
Similar to CaptainKleeman.
10 minutes in and still really hoping what I said on the last video: please please please tear out that old foundation entirely!!!
one look at this house from the first video and could have guessed lol
No matter how you dress up a flawed idea, it remains fundamentally flawed. Should really tear it down and start over.
Yep. Building on a bad foundation is just a bad idea..
THAT CMU DOESNT QUALIFY AS A GARDEN WALL! Much less a retaining wall and not even close to foundation wall.
Cant say that sand is a good thing either...
Never track along side of a basement with heavy equipment, you can drive up to it perpendicular to the wall, but never travel parallel as close as you are, and when lifting at the machine’s maximum capacity make sure you have the drives to the rear, there is an extra thousand pounds or so of counterweight with the drives to the rear versus the idlers.
Don't backfill until you have weight on the wall. At least the floor system, but the framing would be even better. Backfill puts an incredible amount of force on the outside of the wall. The weight and floor system will brace the top of the wall and keep it from moving. Concrete, mortar, etc. is so much stonger in compression than tension.
@@chuckdavis7681 especially doing it in lifts with a compactor and water going to bow those walls right out. I said the same thing in a little different way earlier.
There's a reason we never backfill basement wall foundation until the structure is up. And you guys learned it the hard way. Even properly built cement block walls can't withstand the pressure of backfill without the structure on top to support them. But live and learn you guys are doing the best you can and you'll get her done. Love your channel it's genuine!
oh so they should have dug it all out before they removed the mobile home floor, that makes sense once you stop and think about it.
@@Btstaz it’s the compaction and the weight of the equipment. You need to put more force on the dirt then what happens when it is just sitting there. If this was a new wall built to current code using small equipment, it would be fine at a single story but it isn’t. We always put our decks down before we backfill even shored walls unless we specifically engineer for the surcharge imposed by compaction and the equipment.
This problem also comes up when we have soil engineers that insist we hit 95 percent compaction behind retaining walls vs. 90&. We always issue an RFI confirming the wall is engineered for it as we have had many walls knocked over or cracked getting that last 2 or 3 percent and need a CYA so we don’t pay to replace them.
Well, it would definitely help A LOT if the foundation walls were more than 8" thick! I don't think I have ever framed a house on a foundation less than 12" and they are using 14-18" thick, and I don't know what the rebar schedule was spec'ed out for but I doubt it was anywhere near what we would use today, which would have probably helped tremendously!
@@wesman7837 how does my 2 story house manage to not fall down on hollow 2x6 stem walls then?
@@QwivWhy would you want that anyways? Insulation must be abysmal
Pro tip. Always hose down your gravel before moving it. You have no flying dust clouds and you will have less dust accumulate on your filter fabric.
Most block layers build the corners first which takes the most time. You need enough end blocks in a pallet to build a corner up about 7 or 8 courses. Once you have two corners completed, you can fly laying the center blocks just using a string and a small level. End blocks can be used in the place of the mid-blocks, but not the other way around, so no one will ever know that end blocks were used in the middle of the wall. Corners take the most time because that's where you have to level in two directions while maintaining the correct thickness of the mortor supporting it. Andy is doing a great job. It's harder than it looks.
I think you should talk the Perkins Brothers into flying out to help you frame and dry that sucker in. Would be a fun collaboration.
I love their channel! That would be fun!
why would he do that, if I was him that be last thing I would do bring them brothers.
Knock down make it right
Exactly my thought. I would not want that sketchy foundation. I hope the put that in the Realtors Disclosure Form!
The collab was so fun to watch Andy and Wife should move next door and become regulars on the channel :)
Andy a a riot!
What is their channel? I would like to subscribe to it.
Tear down the whole thing. From a European point of view, this thin and skinny walls are actually rediculous. A foundation should at least be twice as thick and filled with rebar before filled with high quality concrete!
Fully agree. That foundation was built cheaply 50 years ago to support a very cheap mobile home. No sense trying to make chicken salad out of chicken $h!+. Just do it correctly. It will be better and safer.
Uh this is not Europe. This is land that is actively settling eroding and burning. This is a manufactured home intended for a 30yr lifecycle. This is a turd in the forest.
I was thinking what happened to 12 inch concrete block for the basement walls.
@@RobertMillerJustme - I guess no one thought that was necessary under a mobile home. Or…. no one thought.
You're not the only one to have spotted that one (and I'm sure many more). This project has become, more than anything else, illustrative of what happens whey you charge ahead without proper planning. Not everything can be resolved by watching TH-cam videos and hopefully the only result will be dealing with the false economies and not serious medical emergencies or death.
Drange for ground water must not be mixed with roof water. If a rainstorm fills your drain and can't swallow all the water it will flood your basement.
Each gutter down pipe can have its own drainage running away from the structure to the edge of the lawn. Bury about 1.5 feet down for zone 7 so it can be serviced.
Came to say the same thing. You don’t want to funnel your roof drains to the basement walls. They are having enough trouble staying dry. They don’t need a firehouse of additional water being directed to them.
@@justwordme I live in an adobe style, with no overhangs, a flat roof, and scuppers to take the water off the roof, and under the scuppers was drainage stone to direct that water away from the foundation to go over the concrete courtyard and into their drains which empty a good 50 feet away from the building. When I had gardeners out, they wanted to just create a HOLE to allow water to soak into the ground like 5 feet away from my foundation. I'm like, "Why aren't we using the existing drains? Undo all that and drain to there and don't let that water rest against the foundation!!" Grr.
@@justwordmeyup that is true
Not one lick of reinforcing in that foundation/Retaining wall. The slab *might* have welded wire mesh/car chassis in it. Nothing to salvage 😢
Tear it all out and install ICF foundation. Whatever you do to existing foundation you will end up with a patchy end product. This will reflect in the long term value of house. Also ,this will allow you to expand and modify floor plan.
Andy, you ROCKED that wall brother!!! Nice frackin work!!!!
in this situation, you don't so much glue the drain pipes to stop the leaking, but to stop them coming apart, esp. when you drop the rocks on top... or if the soil shifts or settles over time...
I’m so glad you are taking the house down completely. It’s scary to think about what might have happened if you hadn’t!
1st mistake you made: removing the floor.
You should have left it in place to support the foundation. Then dig around the foundation to install drainage, remove flooring, rebuild flooring, then backfill. As it stands now, scrap the entire thing and start new.
Most amateurs probably would not have put the French Drain in - WELL FRACKIN DONE!!!
REALLY glad to hear Boon is doing well!!!!
I’m glad that Riley also watch Perkin builder bothers👍🏼
A friend 20 years ago took apart two mobile homes left on the land he purchaced to the steal frame and used the steel and put them in a new home a small rancher with a basement, also I was always taught to put in the floor joist before backfilling, this will lock the top of the walls in position.
Ah the world of internet house building, where every viewer is an expert and a critic because they would do it differently. (As if there was only one building code, and only one way things could possibly be done) Great job guys, looking forward to the next one!
The crack..you have 2 remedies..a cheap one, an expensive One..inject Epoxy or Polyethylene into the crack..with Ports and a high-pressure fluid pump..or build a 4 inch Concrete wall against it..pour it..on outside, as you are Doing , a Membrane, a Water shield, french drain and good grading that directs the water away from the House
Perkins Brothers Builders is where it's at. Them and you guys are my favorite channels.
ha! I just saw your comment after I wrote mine.. Yep Definitely a Perkins Brothers Builders things when i saw Ambition strikes lay down the brick stuff..
Same!
They're a great crew - and know what they're doing.
Excellent teamwork, guys. That is the base you need. Nice seeing Boon looking so youthful as well.
Kudos to Andy for picking up some masonry skills so quickly.
In NY we lay 10" or 12" block the solid blocks are full sash for basement windows or pillars, filling ever course would make it commercial grade, those 6" blocks are lightweight.
I hope you were watching a How-To video and not a What We Did video. LOL! Nice job, Riley!
It's a good thing you took out all the old cinder blocks- it doesn't look like they used any rebar, nor did they fill with cement... I love that y'all decided to strip everything down to that original foundation wall... I think you would have kicked yourselves if you hadn't.
I don't think the original solid wall has rebar either. The old house was holding it up but this looks pretty sketch. I love watching these two but now I'm worried.
So glad you guys kept going.Love it.
I am really enjoying this build! I understand it so much more than many new-fangled things you both do most of the time. This is how my husband and I built our house. Like Courtney, I did the waterproofing. Like C I had long red hair ( dark auburn). I got the tar mixture all in the tips of my braids lol. That wall is going to be up for hundreds of years. As usual, you are building it right.
I’m still finding that tar mixture around our house! 😬
A lot of critical comments, but I am really enjoying seeing this work! I'd like to think you've put more thought and validation into the overall approach, but please keep putting out the videos on this project!
Great job! Andy is an absolute BEAST! y'all make an AH-MAZING team.
NEVER get into a deep trench with a vertical wall. It's too common for the dirt above to slough off and bury you, and you'll be dead before a group even can dig you out. Always taper those dirt walls back from the edge to prevent it.
Seen it in real life, poor sap who entered a ditch to to have a smoke didn't come out alive.
Tear it out and start over that's a house of cards waiting to blow down. It's amazing that mess lasted this long. No rebar, no concrete fill in the cells, what a hot mess.
That French drain is beautiful
In West Michigan we would call that “sugar sand!” It has ZERO structural stability.
this Job definitely needs a Collab with Perkins Builder Brothers TH-camrs from NC.. they pretty good with these types of projects with their crew.
Perkins builder brothers for the win!
Good job all, Andy great block laying. great video thanks.🤓
The helper in the light blue top has some incredible cakes!❤
No rebar in that concrete wall. You really should tear it down and redo it. Too much risk of you put anything substantial on top and want to it to last and be safe.
Don't forget to check with the county on building specks for the foundations so your don't wasting your time. So far I see things with the wall and the flooring joining. Also rebar down ceils before pouring the ceils.
Most important part of a home: Foundation.
First thing I look at when buying a home: Foundation.
There is no guarantee the footers or stem walls you saved were built correctly.
How much money and headache would you save and how much would resale improve if you started over?
All that aside, the end result is so much better than what you started with. Nice work!
I always love your videos, but this one became even cooler when I heard you mention the Perkins Builders Brothers! In addition to being subscribed to your channel, and I am also subscribed to theirs! (I have learned so much from all of you.) It always amazes me how interconnected youtube can be at times.
Why would you have the excavator that close to the foundation wall ? I’m surprised the basement wall didn’t fall in with the excavator sitting right next to it. You are so lucky with all that weight.
Agree, tear it down, you’re saving nothing.
26:45 Perkins Brothers are great, i have been watching them for a long while now. Recently, they were at a trade show, and were approached by a number of high school shop teachers who said they use Perkins Brothers videos in class.
Wow!
You guys have been busy.
Great job on the fix for the stemwall.
I gotta get me an Andy!
Great example of how hard work can be fun with the right team and attitude.
I’m not a very smart man but seems like more work for what they did, should have ripped it all down and started over, the reason why the walls failed was because the footer was no good should have at least used 8” inch block and 10” inch if your going two stories
I might have missed the plan for the style of house, but if its going to be a stick frame house, instead of another modular, there will probably be foundation issues. That foundation was built for a modular that is lighter in weight than a stick frame or newer modular.
But, maybe you have already talked with an engineer or the local building department about your plans.
Here in wonderful California (love my location, dont love the politics), you aren't supposed to change out your front door without a permit, so that foundation wouldnt even be allowed to be used.
Holes in bottom of pipe explained. Water traveling down into the rock brings silt. Water rising up in the rocks and the holes does not carry the silt. The holes go at the bottom to limit silt in the pipe. Most silt is stopped by fabric now but the orientation of the holes hasn't changed. If you haven't scraped the floors yet, think of sizing them down to the width of a side by side and using them as bridge foundation around your property. This will help span any gultch/dry creak beds for your trails. Think about 4 foot termination walls along the open foundation on the lowered side. They will give the same rigidity to the side walls and leave the open side
Your best yet, really interesting to watch you craft a solution to a bunch of issues. Brilliant.
Next time when pore a concrete wall need tab tie or bailing wire loop 4 time a 16 penning nails keep the wall blow out There a lot force try push out
Great job guy's honestly I thought that foundation was going to be a tear out but you guys made it look great.
Im a licensed contractor, that basement stem wall is not something i would put my company name on... There's a reason structural engineers earn their degrees through universities and not with a few hours of TH-cam videos! I'd at minimum get an engineer to help you retrofit (legally beef up) your floor structure...
There's ya problem, "universities", people learn from doing real work, not from sitting around in stuffy lecture theaters listening to lecturers droning on.....
@@MegaDirtyberty I suppose you wouldn't want a university trained Dentist or MD? How about a structural engineer for bridges or high rise buildings... 😂
@@danieloliver20 I suppose you only want someone working on your teeth or your venereal disease who has only ever learnt from books and watching youtube? How about if they have a book beside them reading what they should do when they are cutting your cancer out... 😂
It's very interesting to watch how you overcome challenges step by step and build the foundation for your home. Your perseverance and resourcefulness are commendable.
Remember to fully fill the block with concrete before you backfill the block part of the wall!
You guy's are doing an AWESOME JOB! Very proud of you guy's!
Perkin's Brothers are awesome, love watching their builds.
After this job, Reckless Riles will have to be renamed to Wrecking Riley.
"Practice on somebody elses house. Not your own." A german saying is: Build your first house for your enemy, the second for a friend, and the last one for yourself. The point is, you make a lot of mistakes at first and get better with practice.
I was very impressed to all the work that you've done guys. Keep them going!
Pumicecrete is by far the best building material on the planet Pumicecrete is a mixture of pumice cement and water mixed and poured into a set of reusable forms walls are poured from 12"to to 34" thick pumicecrete is fireproof termite proof rust rot and mold proof non toxic and has a high R value and good sound attenuation solid poured walls means no critters can live in your walls Pumicecrete can be built for a fraction of the cost and time and pumice is one of the few building materials that can go directly from the mine to the job site ready to use without any additional possessing and zero waste Google all the walls of my house are made of pumicecrete Take and pumice and concrete pumicecrete structures
Take care Ray
It me know if you want more info
The closest pumice mine is Hess pumice in Malad city ID
So good to hear Boone is doing well!! Yay Booney!!! 🐶
Wow you guys know about hard graft! Quote of the day- Andy “ we’re not building a Swiss watch “ 😂😂😂
Andy you plumb. Don't let us down by not wearing your seatbelt. Come on lad!
Love your work team. Watch your channel with my kids. Really inspirational, fun and educational.
hope you got that linoleum checked for asbestos. pretty sure that pattern I saw had some in it.
amazing, ambitious progress. congrats! andy rocked laying the blocks and you guys have great friends, super good people helping you do what ye needed to do to have a stellar long lasting foundation. continued blessings.🕊
Retired licensed architect here. While I appreciate the DIY enthusiasm, there are many issues as others have pointed out. Are building permits required in Idaho? Even if this is considered a remodel, there are many practical considerations. Soils: what are the existing soils and bearing capacity? Existing footings: the size and steel reinforcing are unknown. Existing concrete foundation walls: 6" thick but steel reinforcing is unknown. CMU: rebuilt foundation wall without grouted cells or steel reinforcing ...not good. I don't know how many stories you plan to build above the re-built foundation, but this affects everything. Footing drains (not called french drains) need to be separate from roof drains as others have noted. Back-filling the foundation before the next floor is framed is a really bad idea ....the foundation wall is not designed to resist this load. In retrospect, I think it would have been useful to hire a structural engineer to advise before you began all this work. A main point is that YT is the wild-west ...anyone can post anything. The problem for newbies is that it can be very difficult to sort out the good info from the bad info.
Even with a few mistakes, you all are still an amazing team. Sometimes we all learn by doing! Great job!! 👍👍
“We decided to extend this 4 feet out” and judging from the look of the original foundation, you don’t need to pull a permit for that either! 🤞🏼 lol.
honest question, does permitting get lax when you're out in the wilderness. I can understand needing it for the city but out in the woods when it's just you.. I could see why it might not be required?
@@johnnybgoode8104 It depends on the ‘politics’ of your area, no two areas alike it seems. I’ve lived in farm country back woods with strict zoning regs because they were hell bent on keeping it rural, while the county next door you could live under a couple shingles with a cot and an outhouse and invite your whole clan to build and join in. People always say better to ask forgiveness than permission, but when you are forced to tear down an unpermitted building pretty costly. I had a neighbor dig an unpermitted 4 acre pond on his land- he hit the water table and 6 wells nearby went dry. That was an expensive pond for him, lol. Most people don’t want government in their business on private property and I believe govt is too darn intrusive, but there are also cases where it is necessary to protect everyone’s property.
I can tell you building permits are still required in the location this is taking place, but as somebody who has family in the same area this video is taking place in, a lot of building happens without permits.
I can tell you that this location is outside city limits but still falls within the restrictions of the county they live in, but is very, very lax about permit enforcement. @@johnnybgoode8104
@@johnnybgoode8104 He mentioned once on a past video that his county didn't require permits on that particular area
The rules depend a lot on where (state, province, county, etc.) you are. As an example, we built a 150 sqft cabin in the woods and we needed a building permit. However if that same cabin would have been built on a property with an existing main house, we would have been allowed to build it without a permit. Just an example of how weird the rules sometimes are.
Love the accent, amazing techniques, good TH-cam education the night before, and we need to see more Oliver❤
Why would you tie the downspouts into the french drain? You shouldn't put all of that rain water down at the footer of those walls. Your goal is to get water away from the foundation. I'd suggest you abandon that idea, cut off & cap the stand pipes, and do separate downspout pipes later if you want to carry rain water away from the finished grade.
tf are you smking? xD there is no house, no roof and no rain water. thats not a downspout 🤣
Those are clean outs for the French drain. We will be running a separate gutter drain.
Great stuff.
You guys adapt to what you have...go out learn what you need and hit it hard. It IS the soul of your channel. I appreciate it.
Look forward to the next installment.
Don’t over vibrate when pouring concrete
It's likely they had to much water to begin with.
@@johnwinner8511 agree
Wow, some time spent at TH-cam University and you guys pulled off a great save! I'm impressed on how well it all went together!
According to the real estate class I took in college, water is the most destructive element on earth.
I worked for a major sewage treatment plant installment, maintenance and drainage company. I would have to second that assessment.
The tree roots popped the wall. Only thing stronger than water is ice... which kind of is water!
Over here we generally bring the French drain to the surface with washed 1 inch drain rock so that you have good drainage along the whole wall.
You guys are amazing... i really did not see how you could fix things without a total rebuild... but... there it is - better than it was before. I always look forward to your updates... hang out for them in fact. Boon looks great and Oliver is walking so well now. keep well - keep building.
Breathing the concrete dust as you dump out the bags is very bad for your lungs. Wear a musk! It
Oxen don’t like to be worn….😂
You really need a buttress on those side walls. That's a really big span for those skinny blocks. Dimple membrane is great. We did that on our new build with a french drain and our basement is bone dry even when the sump pump is running every 10 minutes!
Always love seeing your videos , very educative, I'm really blessed only God knows how much I praise him, getting $100k bi weekly and I’m retired now. I’ve got a good cash and can also support my family
Hello!! how do you make such bi-weekly , sometimes I feel so down of myself because of low finance but I still believe God
This is what Daisy Clara does, she has changed my life.
Wow! I know Daisy Clara, and I have also had success...
Absolutely! I have heard stories of people who started with little or no knowledge but managed to emerge victorious thanks to Daisy Clara.
Please what’s her contact information?
Great recovery and addition to the property cannot wait to see what you do next as you “rebuild” the house looking forward to future updates
I'm at a loss for words. Stupid, Lucky, Loving, Lucky, Unbelievable, etc.
It's a damn good U guys aren't afraid of work. Ur enthusiasm is catching. Go for it kids. I'm 82, so you all is kids..... LOL
It is usual to put the house on the wall before back filling especially with block walls. You could have utilized interior bracing. I wish you all the best.
sorry i just went down and read some of the previous comments. They already said what few comments I added....
No they are not baby goats, they are humans...
Yes, Riley, that mini ex has some real advantages in a tight environment! Looks like the Ambitious Construction Company is on another roll! Glad to see Boone back out on the trail.
You can buy 4” perforated tile that has a sock around it. Much simpler to install.
Yea, I am several days late on this advice, but even back filled, you can still dig and set some dead men with tensioner cables to ensure the wall never pushes back in.
It's a good thing you all are young!!! Great job!! Keep up the great work!!!!
Great video.Your editing is very good. You could put these videos on TV and everyone would think they were production crew quality.
Your new friends are incredibly nice folks, you are very lucky to attract such nice people to help you.
I remember Being young and working that hard for fun. Now I just watch you amazing young people to get my vicarious fix.
Thank you for doing these videos. I look forward to their release, and I watch your videos first on Sundays.
Have fun
the reason the wall was cracking apart is the excavators weight pushing down compacting the soil
Deming, a business production analyst, studied teams and their rate of production. The stats revealed that for every doubling of outputs efficiency increased 10%. You have been producing all manner of “things” for years, and the efficiency of production in day 4 vs day 1 was striking. Kudos to your tenacity and can do attitudes.
If you guys are indicative of your generation then I have hope for America.
Keep up the great work.
Those long beams from mobile home floor could really stabilize the foundation walls.
I love the perkinsbuilderbrothers mention 😂 Y’all are my two favorite channels!!
Looks great.
Nice to see Oliver able to transport himself.
Looking forward to next time.
Use ICF to build from the footer. You can set them in a day. Fill pour the next.
Andy is a strong and no nonsense guy! I really enjoyed this episode.