Just a tip.. when setting J bolts.. don't pound on the threads. Screw two nuts on each end. Leave one nut up above the threads a little. Then pound on the nuts . Then your not smashing the top starter threads.
@@AmbitionStrikes Another remediation you might want to consider just in case is get a thread chasing die. Similar to a thread cutting die, but designed to re-shape existing damaged threads.
@@random-person1 hahaha, if putting two nuts on a J bolts...you have bigger problems. I love watching those with zero history in the trades. Teach how to do things wrong...funny stuff.. and, the walls will break away from the slab, and sink when you put a house in top of it. A smart person would have a engineering firm do a soil study. Check how thick the slab is. And why so much of the SOILD basement walls failed and cracked away.. but hey I'm old school...but I used to build 15 house a month down south for Jim Walter homes. Have designed and built 28 million dollar estates in LA. And even built a cliff side house estate hanging over a ocean front cliff. 200 feet above the beach. That when we were done. Bank appraiser gave it a 35 million dollar price. ( Step one, soil study. Step two find how deep the footers are. Step three do the math of the tons your going to add and see if the cheap ass slab concrete PSI can withstanding the tons.. old school.)... Math never lies, like the three little pigs... Build crap, the big bad wolf blows it down... In this cast...it sinks. Good luck. Money waisted is...little Casper's college funds...Oliver....needs a nest egg also.. Best luck..
Being a general contractor for close to 40 years, a little bit of advice on digging and pouring footers, you never add dirt to a dugout footer and compacted. Your footer, always needs to be on virgin ground and not on compacted soil. You might want to check with your local building officials to confirm what I’m saying.
Good advice. I also noticed that they drove (pounded in with hammer) the rebar into the soil. This isn't good practice since the rebar will rust, water will wick up the rebar, and rust jacking would cause cracks in the concrete, letting in more water. Should have tied all the vertical rebar with a horizontal run and block it off of the ground. Rebar should never be put into the dirt.
A quick. Slab test... Now that you added tons to yours... Blow off the slab.... Buy a big glass marble. Drop the marble, in different spots and see what way it rolls if any. If it rolls use a red lumber crayon make a arrow the way it rolled. In two weeks. Do it again. If the slab is sinking or sisting, the marble will roll differently. Oh, I'm old school. Used to run cast iron , waist lines poured hot lead. We used water hose levels. And you always had a marble with you.. great for bath tubs. Instantly know if the water drains to the plug....good luck..
Using hot light and jute for cast iron pipes... I had the blessing to be taught by Master when I was a young teenager. I found it so rewarding, a little boring but very rewarding!
A little word of advice from personal experience when you backfill after floor framing make sure that you don’t get your dirt any higher than 8 inches from the sill plate and then slope all your ground away from your house
It's code in my neck of the woods to have a separate non perforated pipe to manage the roof drain water. The theory is that you won't clog the French drain with debris from the roof. Hopefully you won't have an issue. 🤞 Great video!!
@@ronblack7870 They almost kept them separate, but they tied the two together at the rear corner of the house. In theory, any blockage at or downstream of that point will cause both the french drain and the gutter drain to back up.
Be sure to not fully backfill the three walls until you get your first floor system constructed. There are substantial lateral earth pressures at work and the tops of the walls are unrestrained with no ability to resist those pressures.
When bending rebar use a short length of 3/45 inch pipe and place it close to what is holding the rebab and you will get much tighter bends. Also never drive rebar inti the ground because it is a path for rust to get to the rest of the rebar.
What I've seen foundation teams do for permanent inner forms to be left in place for the sand form you did was 2" rigid foam board. Bonus you get some insulation but it's non rotting forms too
Little tip, always ask for a mix design and send it to the pumper and the finishers. They typically can read them and know which makes their life hard. Adding water is less than ideal obviously.
Yes, they saved the walls. But that doesn't mean that the walls are good. The side walls were cracked. They "repared" them, but the walls are still cracked. And cracks in a concrete wall is and always will be point of weakness and chance for leakage.
Loving Andy getting involved in shooting bits, it's awesome to see him step further out of the guest spot and really becoming part of the channel :D Hi Andy! Spot on, mate
When the pump guy said to much sand in the mix. Note that's how concrete company's save money. A yard of sand is 25 bucks. You paided $250 a yard. If the slump is not right. All the love u give it. A Sandy mix will not carry a load.
Everything rests on the foundation. Not the sexiest part of the build, but arguably the most critical for the success of the whole project. A TON of hard work, but it will pay off major. Congrats on having this part in the rear view mirror!
Just 3 weeks is incredible. Great work guys! I have been watching your videos for a few months and each video just gets more and more interesting. Keep up the great work.
Riley, Reuse the measuring tape that you broke! Solidly mount it somewhere in your shop for measuring steel wood, whatever. Maybe glue it to the floor. Eddie
For the small knee walls, you needed to drill & add rebar to the floor and the foundation wall. This would tie the knee wall into the floor and will tie it into the foundation walls Great Job! look forward to more content
A suggestion...Don't use Galvanize pipe in from your transition through the foundation. Use copper or what ever type of PEX in use today. The iron pipe won't last long. From a former plumber. I've been out of the business over 30 years so I don't know what they call the PEX pipe today.
Had a boss who used a special listening device for drips from pipes in concrete. The galvanized was more prone than the copper, but some of the copper was not as good as what was American made. Either way was a major inconvenience for the homeowners ripping up carpets and slabs. The slabs that were tension poured we wouldn't touch
Riley, Never backfill under a footing or foundation. If you over dig, you must fill it with concrete. You can never compact soil to 100% with a compactor. The best you can hope for is 90% which leaves room for settling. Good luck.
Most people use sand bags for void areas so it doesn't cost so much where it doesn't need to be that thick like the floor, but not footers. Like patios and steps, the center they use sand bags, then the footers edges they just fill with concrete.
Or a thousand gallons or so of water for hydrocompaction (at low psi). Depending on soil composition anyway. Although with the way it looked from just the rain. I’d give it a few days to dry out. Especially since water cannot compact, so it can make the footer settling later even worse.
I used to be a project manager for an electric utility. We often compacted fill well over the 100% of the virgin earth. I remember getting 140% compaction on one project. But to know this, you have to take soil density test before and during the compaction process. You also limit fill to nine inch lifts prior to compaction. Moisture content is key to good compaction and our soil had a high clay content. So I disagree with it's not possible to get 100% compaction, but I don't doubt you're correct with the way it was done here. I've also seen virgin soil settle over time.
I'm glad to see you separated the gutter drain from the french drain around the footing. Why would you want to intentionally put rain water at the footing every time it rains?
To each is own, but I would highly recommend NOT driving the re-bar directly into the soil. This is an open invitation for corrosion that eventually will creep upwards into the actual concrete structure. As we all know, as re-bar starts to corrode, it expands - possibly causing your foundations to crack in the distant future.
@@ronblack7870 --- Doesn't matter who owns the house whenever - still possibly gonna corrode/swell and crack the foundation someday. IMHO, it's just a poor construction practice.
it looked to me like those bars slopped down, possible they pulled them up during the pour. They did have a pro there, i would think he would have said something about it at least.
You are too amazing for words Riley ❤. Can you believe how far you've come so far with Courtney and boom boom? Who would have thought 10 years ago, you'd be here at this point in your life today. Thanks you so.much for all your videos , teaching us the correct way to do things for tomorrow 👍. I appreciate you and the entertaining way you're teaching me....❤❤❤
One note - you should check out French Drain Man's products - before you run those gutters into your system, you'll probably want to get one of his gutter adapters. It has a some awesome filtering to catch stuff from your roof before it goes in. Also consider a catch basin just in case you have any roof gravel depending on your type of roof. If you don't have a catch basin, that roof gravel will ultimately end up clogging your PVC run under your driveway, etc. Nice work!
It's so great to see that you guys bit the bullet and took the time to demo everything that was not reusable. Starting off with a clean slate it so important!
Remember to widen the diameter of the pipe before going under the driveway. If You need a 110mm round the foundation drain and the same for gutters - all that can't be led out in a less than 160mm at the junction. A heavy rain will otherwise go back in / under the foundation, we (Sweden) use 30 sq-meter roof / 80mm downpipe and max 2 110-pipes to a 160mm.
If you ever have to poor concrete again, void areas like your dirt ledge is done with sand/dirt bags. Dig out the soil, fill the bags, then stack in place where you need a void filled with dirt. It's what they do for patios and steps. Should have TH-camd videos for fi.ling voids under concrete poors. Hope that helps in future.
As a Brit from NE England originally I'm trying to place Andy's accent (because I'm a nosy git! ) my guess is East Yorks/Lincolnshire. Not hard enough for N Yorks or further N. Please enlighten , he is a damn good grafter!!
You discovered by accident how much nicer the finished cement looks when it's a little wetter during the pour. While that doesn't always work great on large slabs, it seems to have been just what you needed for that footer and foundation project. DITTO on the earlier comments about pounding the J-Bolt threads and not pouring a footer on virgin soil. I was a little worried when it rained and what it looked like after you removed the support boards. At least you're ready for the next steps to get some structures built so you can start seeing the actual home walls, which is always a cool part of the project because the progress seems to go much faster than it does working on the foundation and block walls.
The water main has a galvanized coupling tying the poly to the PVC. It will rust and die in a few decades. Please replace it at some point with a brass coupling.
Water the new solidified concrete the day after to prevent formation of small nonharmful cracks for 3 days. The inner part dries slower than the outer, if you water it, it dries more evenly.
You might have considered saving the run off from the roof for emergency water storage. I have a 500 gallon emergency water tank so my wife and I have about 200 days of emergency water. It's cheap to do and costs very little.
@@AmbitionStrikes Yeah, if you so some web searching, you can find large rectangular water storage containers, filters and pumps to move the water from one container to the next and put a string of them alongside the building under the eaves out of the weather and protected. Put them on the side of the building where there are no windows and simply stack them in a line. The water runs off the roof, down the gutters through debris screens so that mostly only water goes into the catch barrel which is then filtered into the storage tanks. There are detailed plans on the web for how to do it. Figure 1.5 gallons per person per day for drinking, bathing, dishes, cooking, etc. Then plan your storage tanks accordingly. FREE WATER, why not.
I understand why Riley and Courtney would consider that at their own place (because they have a shallow well) but why would you need 200 days worth of emergency water? Just curious.
Many States prohibit rain water catchment because the State considers rain water Imminent domaine. Just like a well, the water in the well belongs to the State.
Great job everyone.Your very lucky to have friends that can help you.Just take your time Riley & the framing will be done before you know it.Good Luck>:))))
The reason the concrete is smooth on the sides is because the mix used smaller gravel [#789] for the small pump hose. A #789 pump mix does not break as strong as a mix using #57 [3/4"] stone. The whole soil bearing scene you have with the sand looks a little sketchy for a solid design and pour. Also, why use 6" CMU on top of an 8" concrete wall, as a 6" CMU wall is a lot weaker than a 8" one, regardless if filled or not.. And the cost is usually cheaper to use 8" CMU because they manufacture loads more 8" ones at the factory.
Great! According to Gate City Foundation & Drainage, you never want to put your gutter water into your french drain. Shawn would be sad to see the corrugated pipe though.
When ever trying to see how thick a slab or footers are. Do this drill holes 1/2" down thru the slab. Get a metal rod. Like a welding rod. Bend a small angle on one end. Shove it thru the hole. And get to one side of the hole and pull up till it stops.. mark the rod. Turn it , pull it up and measure how thick the concrete is.
You shouldn't backfill the foundation until you have the first floor diaphragm on it. The floor framing is what holds the foundation walls up against the push from the dirt.
Maby a clean out in that drain? future plug up .just sayin.concrete work primo! Andrew is a d-8 ,a true Saxon of a son!! mighty Man,is our man Andrew!!! God bless you all.
Hey, when installing i joints, x block in between them to reduce bounce in the finished subfloor. Scab in plywood plates on the end of the i joints for the deck rim joist brackets to go into. Don’t skimp on the glue.
This is quickly becoming one of my favourite TH-cam channels. Keep up the good work guys! Nice to see how you do it over there compared to here in the UK.
Should look into using netting for your drain outlet on the French drain. That way rodents don’t make the piping into a nest, also the foundation drain need metal mesh at the very end over the hill
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CAN WE JUST TAKE A MOMENT TO APPRECIATE THE UNSUNG GENIUS OF AN ON-SITE FRIDGE. I have never ever done that and I am never going to forget it.
Just a tip.. when setting J bolts.. don't pound on the threads. Screw two nuts on each end. Leave one nut up above the threads a little. Then pound on the nuts . Then your not smashing the top starter threads.
Oh man, I wish we had thought to do that! I think we’re going to pay the price this week for that. 😬
@@AmbitionStrikes you can always cut the worst of the threads off and it will be much less of a problem
@@AmbitionStrikes Another remediation you might want to consider just in case is get a thread chasing die. Similar to a thread cutting die, but designed to re-shape existing damaged threads.
@@random-person1 hahaha, if putting two nuts on a J bolts...you have bigger problems. I love watching those with zero history in the trades. Teach how to do things wrong...funny stuff.. and, the walls will break away from the slab, and sink when you put a house in top of it. A smart person would have a engineering firm do a soil study. Check how thick the slab is. And why so much of the SOILD basement walls failed and cracked away.. but hey I'm old school...but I used to build 15 house a month down south for Jim Walter homes. Have designed and built 28 million dollar estates in LA. And even built a cliff side house estate hanging over a ocean front cliff. 200 feet above the beach. That when we were done. Bank appraiser gave it a 35 million dollar price. ( Step one, soil study. Step two find how deep the footers are. Step three do the math of the tons your going to add and see if the cheap ass slab concrete PSI can withstanding the tons.. old school.)... Math never lies, like the three little pigs...
Build crap, the big bad wolf blows it down... In this cast...it sinks. Good luck.
Money waisted is...little Casper's college funds...Oliver....needs a nest egg also..
Best luck..
Run an angle grinder on a 45⁰ around the end of bolts@@AmbitionStrikes
Being a general contractor for close to 40 years, a little bit of advice on digging and pouring footers, you never add dirt to a dugout footer and compacted. Your footer, always needs to be on virgin ground and not on compacted soil. You might want to check with your local building officials to confirm what I’m saying.
I'm guessing there is no inspection schedule.
@@Synaptic_gap with or without an inspection, you should never backfill a footer compacted and then pour the footer on top of it
What about being below the frost line? I’m sure in Idaho it’s well below 2 feet in Wisconsin it’s 4ft.
Good advice. I also noticed that they drove (pounded in with hammer) the rebar into the soil. This isn't good practice since the rebar will rust, water will wick up the rebar, and rust jacking would cause cracks in the concrete, letting in more water. Should have tied all the vertical rebar with a horizontal run and block it off of the ground. Rebar should never be put into the dirt.
I noticed that too.
Where did you find Andy? Everyone needs an Andy!
Mr & Mrs Adventure have their own Andy.
Where’s Andy from, I’m guessing he’s a northerner but where
Andy is a treasure. Keep him happy and keep him around!
Don't back fill until you get the floor system in it helps support the wall.
A quick. Slab test... Now that you added tons to yours... Blow off the slab....
Buy a big glass marble. Drop the marble, in different spots and see what way it rolls if any. If it rolls use a red lumber crayon make a arrow the way it rolled.
In two weeks. Do it again. If the slab is sinking or sisting, the marble will roll differently. Oh, I'm old school. Used to run cast iron , waist lines poured hot lead. We used water hose levels. And you always had a marble with you.. great for bath tubs. Instantly know if the water drains to the plug....good luck..
Using hot light and jute for cast iron pipes... I had the blessing to be taught by Master when I was a young teenager. I found it so rewarding, a little boring but very rewarding!
Great pump guy Alex and his son Roman. Also our friends and neighbors!
I was worried about that block wall until you filled it with concrete. Perfect.
Where is the vertical rebar in the wall and the horizonal bond beam with rebar on top of the wall? Rebar is need in a concrete block wall!
what about the rest of the problems?
@@jimthode I believe they placed vertical rebar in the holes of the blocks, but I don't know about horizontal.
So you owe Andy and his wife a huge thank you for the help and labor they provided. They got you to where you are today.
A little word of advice from personal experience when you backfill after floor framing make sure that you don’t get your dirt any higher than 8 inches from the sill plate and then slope all your ground away from your house
do not forget to put on a screen on the outlet to your drain clean out to keep the critters out. HAVE A GREAT DAY!
It's code in my neck of the woods to have a separate non perforated pipe to manage the roof drain water. The theory is that you won't clog the French drain with debris from the roof. Hopefully you won't have an issue. 🤞
Great video!!
that's what they did
@@ronblack7870 They almost kept them separate, but they tied the two together at the rear corner of the house. In theory, any blockage at or downstream of that point will cause both the french drain and the gutter drain to back up.
@@spenceralridge4958 that should work 👍
@@spenceralridge4958 Yup. You'll want a cleanout for sure after the roof downspout to catch any roof debris before entering your whole system.
I only wish I had more Andys in my life. Count yourself lucky beyond words.
Be sure to not fully backfill the three walls until you get your first floor system constructed. There are substantial lateral earth pressures at work and the tops of the walls are unrestrained with no ability to resist those pressures.
When bending rebar use a short length of 3/45 inch pipe and place it close to what is holding the rebab and you will get much tighter bends. Also never drive rebar inti the ground because it is a path for rust to get to the rest of the rebar.
What I've seen foundation teams do for permanent inner forms to be left in place for the sand form you did was 2" rigid foam board. Bonus you get some insulation but it's non rotting forms too
called insulated concrete forms. the foam is on both sides of the concrete walls and stays there permanently. the foam is the form.
Little tip, always ask for a mix design and send it to the pumper and the finishers. They typically can read them and know which makes their life hard. Adding water is less than ideal obviously.
I would suggest a varment / animal barrier at the end of your French drain
That is a really good idea. 😬
@@AmbitionStrikes I’m honored and glad to help…
I wasn't sure the concrete walls were worth saving, but you guys did it and it saved you a lot of money. Great job!!
Yes, they saved the walls. But that doesn't mean that the walls are good. The side walls were cracked. They "repared" them, but the walls are still cracked. And cracks in a concrete wall is and always will be point of weakness and chance for leakage.
Always nice when my week long wait for a new episode comes to an end, love yalls videos.
Loving Andy getting involved in shooting bits, it's awesome to see him step further out of the guest spot and really becoming part of the channel :D Hi Andy! Spot on, mate
When the pump guy said to much sand in the mix. Note that's how concrete company's save money. A yard of sand is 25 bucks. You paided $250 a yard. If the slump is not right. All the love u give it. A Sandy mix will not carry a load.
I have a concrete pump. Mine will only pump 1/2 inch minus gravel. Not sure what theirs claims to do.
That’s really starting to come together nicely now!
Everything rests on the foundation. Not the sexiest part of the build, but arguably the most critical for the success of the whole project. A TON of hard work, but it will pay off major. Congrats on having this part in the rear view mirror!
Just 3 weeks is incredible. Great work guys! I have been watching your videos for a few months and each video just gets more and more interesting. Keep up the great work.
Riley, Reuse the measuring tape that you broke! Solidly mount it somewhere in your shop for measuring steel wood, whatever. Maybe glue it to the floor. Eddie
I love that put in sub-titles for Andy, like he's not speaking English.
Just watched both of y'all's videos on this build series and I'm officially KNACKERED 😊 thanks for sharing
Your on a strong foundation now Riley lol....Youre all doing a fantastic job ....stay safe and see you soon
You are a very hard-working person
For the small knee walls, you needed to drill & add rebar to the floor and the foundation wall. This would tie the knee wall into the floor and will tie it into the foundation walls
Great Job! look forward to more content
Super Pro on the water drain guys! That is better than most professionals do!
This comment is scary on so many levels.
Just catching up as have been away, interesting equipment that suppliers have, looking forward to the rest of the build
A suggestion...Don't use Galvanize pipe in from your transition through the foundation. Use copper or what ever type of PEX in use today. The iron pipe won't last long. From a former plumber. I've been out of the business over 30 years so I don't know what they call the PEX pipe today.
Had a boss who used a special listening device for drips from pipes in concrete. The galvanized was more prone than the copper, but some of the copper was not as good as what was American made. Either way was a major inconvenience for the homeowners ripping up carpets and slabs. The slabs that were tension poured we wouldn't touch
Municipalities are paying millions across the country to replace galvanized pipe, PLEASE DONT BURY THAT IRON PIPE! Replace it with CTS poly, please!
Make sure to put some kind of marker on the surface directly above that adapter, so that you can easily find it again if there's a leak.
Riley, Never backfill under a footing or foundation. If you over dig, you must fill it with concrete. You can never compact soil to 100% with a compactor. The best you can hope for is 90% which leaves room for settling. Good luck.
You beat me to it. I see cracks and settling in the future 😢
Agreed.
Most people use sand bags for void areas so it doesn't cost so much where it doesn't need to be that thick like the floor, but not footers. Like patios and steps, the center they use sand bags, then the footers edges they just fill with concrete.
Or a thousand gallons or so of water for hydrocompaction (at low psi). Depending on soil composition anyway. Although with the way it looked from just the rain. I’d give it a few days to dry out. Especially since water cannot compact, so it can make the footer settling later even worse.
I used to be a project manager for an electric utility. We often compacted fill well over the 100% of the virgin earth. I remember getting 140% compaction on one project. But to know this, you have to take soil density test before and during the compaction process. You also limit fill to nine inch lifts prior to compaction. Moisture content is key to good compaction and our soil had a high clay content. So I disagree with it's not possible to get 100% compaction, but I don't doubt you're correct with the way it was done here. I've also seen virgin soil settle over time.
Got to say guys and girls, Ambition Strikes has to be my favourite, “ this is how they do it”. You tube Channel. Thanks guys
Alex must do a lot of Pilates! wow! That takes some serious overall body strength.
I recommend replacing the galvanized water pipe with PVC or Pex
The movement of the wall at 27:33 is exactly why you don't backfill before building the floor system on top of the wall at the very least.
I'm glad to see you separated the gutter drain from the french drain around the footing. Why would you want to intentionally put rain water at the footing every time it rains?
Who needs building codes when you've got Ambition's Army. Got the new truck t-shirt and it feels great.
To each is own, but I would highly recommend NOT driving the re-bar directly into the soil. This is an open invitation for corrosion that eventually will creep upwards into the actual concrete structure. As we all know, as re-bar starts to corrode, it expands - possibly causing your foundations to crack in the distant future.
if they still own the house in 20years
@@ronblack7870 --- Doesn't matter who owns the house whenever - still possibly gonna corrode/swell and crack the foundation someday. IMHO, it's just a poor construction practice.
it looked to me like those bars slopped down, possible they pulled them up during the pour. They did have a pro there, i would think he would have said something about it at least.
@@andrewr2650 - Sure looks like they are still pointed down --- You might freeze the video at 10:30 to see what I saw.
You are too amazing for words Riley ❤. Can you believe how far you've come so far with Courtney and boom boom? Who would have thought 10 years ago, you'd be here at this point in your life today.
Thanks you so.much for all your videos , teaching us the correct way to do things for tomorrow 👍. I appreciate you and the entertaining way you're teaching me....❤❤❤
Love Riley’s fancy hands on the factor sponsor. 😂 top tier
One note - you should check out French Drain Man's products - before you run those gutters into your system, you'll probably want to get one of his gutter adapters. It has a some awesome filtering to catch stuff from your roof before it goes in. Also consider a catch basin just in case you have any roof gravel depending on your type of roof. If you don't have a catch basin, that roof gravel will ultimately end up clogging your PVC run under your driveway, etc. Nice work!
Add a screen cap over the drain pipe,it will keep out critters
Thought the same thing!
lol i posted that as well before reading this comment.
Your the money man, you do what you want on the job
I love Andy. Do they have their own channel?
That’s what I’m wondering too.
Good work people, all of you
It's so great to see that you guys bit the bullet and took the time to demo everything that was not reusable. Starting off with a clean slate it so important!
stunning project love to follow your every move lust brilliant guys
You should extend the drainpipe further down the slope and put gravel or something at the end of the pipe to keep it from eroding the bank.
You never know until you try. So far you’re accomplishing everything you try. 👍👍
Every step you make on your property gets me more excited
Remember to widen the diameter of the pipe before going under the driveway. If You need a 110mm round the foundation drain and the same for gutters - all that can't be led out in a less than 160mm at the junction. A heavy rain will otherwise go back in / under the foundation, we (Sweden) use 30 sq-meter roof / 80mm downpipe and max 2 110-pipes to a 160mm.
If you ever have to poor concrete again, void areas like your dirt ledge is done with sand/dirt bags. Dig out the soil, fill the bags, then stack in place where you need a void filled with dirt. It's what they do for patios and steps. Should have TH-camd videos for fi.ling voids under concrete poors. Hope that helps in future.
As a Brit from NE England originally I'm trying to place Andy's accent (because I'm a nosy git! ) my guess is East Yorks/Lincolnshire. Not hard enough for N Yorks or further N. Please enlighten , he is a damn good grafter!!
Great looking job.
It's great being able to get all the trucks in without a problem.
Looking forward to next week.
Thanks for the video on the fondation and more .
Andy the practical joker! Love it!
Nice Work Guys!
I like the microwave in the frunk! Worked like a charm.
3:00 in, that is quite possible, most absolutely, the best transition to a sponsored section I have ever seen haha. Well done R and C.
Hi guys you should collect the water for watering crops or plants
That forklift is something special.
You discovered by accident how much nicer the finished cement looks when it's a little wetter during the pour. While that doesn't always work great on large slabs, it seems to have been just what you needed for that footer and foundation project. DITTO on the earlier comments about pounding the J-Bolt threads and not pouring a footer on virgin soil. I was a little worried when it rained and what it looked like after you removed the support boards. At least you're ready for the next steps to get some structures built so you can start seeing the actual home walls, which is always a cool part of the project because the progress seems to go much faster than it does working on the foundation and block walls.
thank you for the bring along.
i can't wait until some ask you to build them a road. all the toys at work.
The water main has a galvanized coupling tying the poly to the PVC. It will rust and die in a few decades. Please replace it at some point with a brass coupling.
Well done guys, you and Andy have done marvellous ❤❤
Grouting the wall-perfect!!!!
Water the new solidified concrete the day after to prevent formation of small nonharmful cracks for 3 days. The inner part dries slower than the outer, if you water it, it dries more evenly.
It's coming together beautifully! Keep up the hard work 💪🏻
You might have considered saving the run off from the roof for emergency water storage. I have a 500 gallon emergency water tank so my wife and I have about 200 days of emergency water. It's cheap to do and costs very little.
That's a great idea!!
@@AmbitionStrikes Yeah, if you so some web searching, you can find large rectangular water storage containers, filters and pumps to move the water from one container to the next and put a string of them alongside the building under the eaves out of the weather and protected. Put them on the side of the building where there are no windows and simply stack them in a line. The water runs off the roof, down the gutters through debris screens so that mostly only water goes into the catch barrel which is then filtered into the storage tanks. There are detailed plans on the web for how to do it. Figure 1.5 gallons per person per day for drinking, bathing, dishes, cooking, etc. Then plan your storage tanks accordingly. FREE WATER, why not.
I understand why Riley and Courtney would consider that at their own place (because they have a shallow well) but why would you need 200 days worth of emergency water? Just curious.
@@spenceralridge4958 gardening or in case of fire perhaps….just some guesses
Many States prohibit rain water catchment because the State considers rain water Imminent domaine. Just like a well, the water in the well belongs to the State.
I really like Andy! What a smart ass 🤣 and love the accent 🇬🇧
from the UK I have got to love the approach to building planning no just make it a bit bigger, inspections no just dig pour and hope.
Great job everyone.Your very lucky to have friends that can help you.Just take your time Riley & the framing will be done before you know it.Good Luck>:))))
Andy is such a tease!! He got you with the “puddle/leak”….
The reason the concrete is smooth on the sides is because the mix used smaller gravel [#789] for the small pump hose. A #789 pump mix does not break as strong as a mix using #57 [3/4"] stone. The whole soil bearing scene you have with the sand looks a little sketchy for a solid design and pour. Also, why use 6" CMU on top of an 8" concrete wall, as a 6" CMU wall is a lot weaker than a 8" one, regardless if filled or not.. And the cost is usually cheaper to use 8" CMU because they manufacture loads more 8" ones at the factory.
Great! According to Gate City Foundation & Drainage, you never want to put your gutter water into your french drain. Shawn would be sad to see the corrugated pipe though.
You guys are awesome!!! I love to watch you work together!!!
When ever trying to see how thick a slab or footers are. Do this drill holes 1/2" down thru the slab. Get a metal rod. Like a welding rod. Bend a small angle on one end. Shove it thru the hole. And get to one side of the hole and pull up till it stops.. mark the rod. Turn it , pull it up and measure how thick the concrete is.
You shouldn't backfill the foundation until you have the first floor diaphragm on it. The floor framing is what holds the foundation walls up against the push from the dirt.
You guys always fun to watch your videos! Thanks for another great one looking forward to the next one as always
I’d put a grate on the drain output to keep critters out
Maby a clean out in that drain? future plug up .just sayin.concrete work primo! Andrew is a d-8 ,a true Saxon of a son!! mighty Man,is our man Andrew!!! God bless you all.
@10:53 "and the truck didn't get stuck" THAT'S RIGHT!! plus remarkably few pulleys were used this time - movin on up!
What a great idea to keep that running fridge on site !!!
LOOKING GOOD!
Hey, when installing i joints, x block in between them to reduce bounce in the finished subfloor. Scab in plywood plates on the end of the i joints for the deck rim joist brackets to go into. Don’t skimp on the glue.
Thank you so much Andy, I've got to admit it's getting better, A little better all the time.
Nice work!
Enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing
This is quickly becoming one of my favourite TH-cam channels. Keep up the good work guys! Nice to see how you do it over there compared to here in the UK.
Great effort everyone! Can't wait until the next video!
Really like Andy! He makes your videos fun.
Should look into using netting for your drain outlet on the French drain. That way rodents don’t make the piping into a nest, also the foundation drain need metal mesh at the very end over the hill
You are doing an AWESOME JOB guy's! Love watching your building projects!