I did this to a friend's truck but we cut all of the old rusty metal off and left 3/4 of the metal around all the edges for the panel bond , and put rust converter on the rust on the inside and primed and coat of paint it. And after the panel bond was dry we sealed up all the edges with seam sealer primed little gravel guard and paint. The truck is still going strong after a number of years now 👍
Good idea on the seam sealer! I'm about to do this operation on my Expedition and have been worrying about the likelihood of water getting in behind the replacement panels and how to seal it up.
I have a project like this coming up soon. Never did one before so watching as many of these while I wait on parts. Glue, river and screws is going to be my method as well. Me not a welder… yet! thanks for posting! You video was very well laid out and recorded!
Great repair video, exactly what weekend warriors like myself look for. I have a rusted out 2002 F150 that’s about to receive the same treatment. Ignore all negative comments. We all know that there’s a better way but we all don’t have the time or money!
This is absolutely the way to do it as it will be stronger than welding and seals off the panel at least at the joints to keep salt from getting in. Thanks for posting.
Except if there isn't any drain holes, water mud and everything else will get back behind it and sit there to rust it all out again. Those inner rocker panels still have a lot of rust, it wouldn't take much more and he'll be doing this again fairly soon depending where he lives. All that caulking will hold water up against already rusted areas.
Great Video. Best video on rocker panels. I am looking to repair my rocker panels soon and found this very helpful. Just wanted to know what rocker panels you used and where you got them from. Also what does it look like now. Thanks!
This is an excellent video which busts the mystique of this body work that few amateurs would attempt in their driveways. The quality of these USA-made replacement panels is nothing short of excellent. They are also inexpensive. Mine arrived in New York in three days. Here are some thoughts. The video cuts through much of the prep and goes right to the mounting. Obviously better long term performance would result from better prep. Some folks are in this for the long haul, some aren't. The care given to preparation chooses the performance we want. What additional steps can I take to assure a five to ten year repair? I think I'd prep the existing inner rocker panel to protect it from rust. I'd coat it with an epoxy or a POR-15 type of paint. I'd cut out badly rusted rocker remnants. I'd prime the underside of the replacement panel with something to defer rusting. What about the aluminum pop rivets? Would they cause electrolysis in the steel? How would I keep them from rusting around the holes? How could I facilitate drainage of the rocker panel to avoid the kind of rust that destroyed the originals? Could I just install them as shown and then coat the inside with an oil product such as Fluid-film? Some discussion about and opinions on this would be so much appreciated! Thanks again for a great video! - Eddie in New York
Yes I agree with you! There are many different processes one could have used. The pay you decide is your choice and you have to ask yourself what you want out of the final product? Longevity, cost effective, put a band-Aid on it? These will all be different processes for all different situations. My video is to just show one way this process can be achieved. Thanks for watching!
Hey Dan could you post an update on how these look two years later? Im about to do the same operation on my Expedition and thank you so much for the step by step install. Also, what brand slip on rockers did you use?
This is ok, but there's still too much rust left behind before you epoxied. I recommend using rust reformer all over then sand the areas to be epoxied to the metal before glueing, and never glue over paint.
I agree. The 100% right way to do it would have been to sandblast any rust that was left. Then seal before epoxy in the panels. Doing this outside in the backyard I have limited equipment and use what I have. Thanks for watching!
I have not yet. I’m kinda tired of all the haters on here and there 2 cents so I haven’t posted a video in awhile. I will get it soon and let you know! Thanks for checking back!!
@@danofalltrades3567 I want to do my 2008 Expedition and I like your approach. I wanted to know how you dealt with the rivet heads sticking up. I am looking into doing something similar but am thinking of spot welding so I can get a smooth look. I am willing to do a bit more work to get the rust out and converted and covered with sealer before attaching the panels because I want to keep the vehicle for at least another 5 years.
@@rodneysmith1684 yes spot welding would definitely be cleaner. For sure cleaning out as much rust as you can and sealing before you install the panel is best approach! I wasn’t concerned too much about the longevity of the the repair as I was getting rid of the vehicle. I think if you take your time and get as much rust out as possible, you will get a couple more years out of it! Thanks for the views and let me know if you have any more questions?
@@DJKBEATS the top was like 1/8 pretty small. I don’t remember the exact size of the bottom but they where much bigger. Like commercial grade? Hope that helps! Stay tuned for my next video how to rock it liner over them.
A repair at reasonable costs. A little more work, and it will be done. Without r,ust treatment of the very rusty parts and the also rusted floor panels, it will last from 12 o'clock til noon, as we say in Germany. Good work in vain.😊
This is incredibly bad advice! It fails to eliminate the rust problem. The old metal will continue to rust and the new panel will start to rust. Overlapping sheet metal is recipe for corrosion.
Great job. Don't let the haters get to you. A body shop would have charged $800 a side. Be proud of what you did.
Best tutorial I found! Thank you!!
Hat off to you brother for making this video ! Had no idea what I was up against now I’m gonna be prepared ! Thanks man !
I did this to a friend's truck but we cut all of the old rusty metal off and left 3/4 of the metal around all the edges for the panel bond , and put rust converter on the rust on the inside and primed and coat of paint it. And after the panel bond was dry we sealed up all the edges with seam sealer primed little gravel guard and paint. The truck is still going strong after a number of years now 👍
Great information. Thanks!
Good idea on the seam sealer! I'm about to do this operation on my Expedition and have been worrying about the likelihood of water getting in behind the replacement panels and how to seal it up.
Exactly the video I needed to watch, Thanks for uploading this!!
Doing rockers on my Ford for the first time and you sir just helped me out! Thanks a lot for posting
Did u get your ford done?
I have a project like this coming up soon. Never did one before so watching as many of these while I wait on parts. Glue, river and screws is going to be my method as well. Me not a welder… yet! thanks for posting! You video was very well laid out and recorded!
Great repair video, exactly what weekend warriors like myself look for. I have a rusted out 2002 F150 that’s about to receive the same treatment. Ignore all negative comments. We all know that there’s a better way but we all don’t have the time or money!
You did an amazing job! Thanks for recording this tutorial.
Great video, I'm in the exact situation and have the exact panel. Alot of useful information and very helpful.
Excellent vid. Will help me a lot with my installation. Thank you
Very helpful. I may give it a go on my old Chevy express van. Thanks
Looks good for an older truck at a good price I wouldn't mind this fix.
This is absolutely the way to do it as it will be stronger than welding and seals off the panel at least at the joints to keep salt from getting in. Thanks for posting.
Except if there isn't any drain holes, water mud and everything else will get back behind it and sit there to rust it all out again. Those inner rocker panels still have a lot of rust, it wouldn't take much more and he'll be doing this again fairly soon depending where he lives. All that caulking will hold water up against already rusted areas.
Great Job 👍 I am doing the same on a ford focus for my son
Hey Excellent work. I’m going to use do same. Nice video
Thanks.... looks great
Doing my 2012 Fx4 the same way. Video coming soon! Thanks!
Good job. Saved before to late. Body shop would of welded but cost an arm and leg
Well explained
That looks fantastic good job man
Thanks! I will make a video spraying it with rock-it liner next
@@danofalltrades3567 I wanna see that for sure
Would love to see how this turned out!
Thank you that was very helpful. I saw another video and they used JB Weld. He said it was way cheaper than the autobody stuff you used.
These panels where pretty reasonable at about $40. I’m sure you would have just as much in JB weld?
Great Video. Best video on rocker panels.
I am looking to repair my rocker panels soon and found this very helpful.
Just wanted to know what rocker panels you used and where you got them from.
Also what does it look like now.
Thanks!
They are from Classic 2 current fabrication. I will posts a finished video of spraying rock it liner over them!
What’s up with the gauge under the rocker that is shown at the end of the video?
I'm going to use Eastman Rust Converter and then paint it with their ceramic type of chassis paint before I cover them with slip on rocker panels.
Simple look at the munchy crunchy rust or do something
this is way better than doing nothing if you can't weld it in
This is an excellent video which busts the mystique of this body work that few amateurs would attempt in their driveways. The quality of these USA-made replacement panels is nothing short of excellent. They are also inexpensive. Mine arrived in New York in three days.
Here are some thoughts. The video cuts through much of the prep and goes right to the mounting. Obviously better long term performance would result from better prep. Some folks are in this for the long haul, some aren't. The care given to preparation chooses the performance we want. What additional steps can I take to assure a five to ten year repair?
I think I'd prep the existing inner rocker panel to protect it from rust. I'd coat it with an epoxy or a POR-15 type of paint. I'd cut out badly rusted rocker remnants. I'd prime the underside of the replacement panel with something to defer rusting. What about the aluminum pop rivets? Would they cause electrolysis in the steel? How would I keep them from rusting around the holes? How could I facilitate drainage of the rocker panel to avoid the kind of rust that destroyed the originals?
Could I just install them as shown and then coat the inside with an oil product such as Fluid-film?
Some discussion about and opinions on this would be so much appreciated! Thanks again for a great video! - Eddie in New York
Yes I agree with you! There are many different processes one could have used. The pay you decide is your choice and you have to ask yourself what you want out of the final product? Longevity, cost effective, put a band-Aid on it? These will all be different processes for all different situations. My video is to just show one way this process can be achieved.
Thanks for watching!
Where can I get these at for an 05 Yukon?
Nice job. Are those s/s rivets ? Can reuse that tube after it mixes up in the nozzle?
Yes as long as you clean it out with brake clean when your done
Wish you didn't record this in portrait mode. Great content though.
How'd the doors close; was there any rubbing or sticking because of the extra added metal?
No problems with the door sealing or closing. I don’t think it was enough of a difference with the extra metal?
Hey Dan could you post an update on how these look two years later? Im about to do the same operation on my Expedition and thank you so much for the step by step install. Also, what brand slip on rockers did you use?
I will work on getting another video out. The Panels are from classic 2 current fabrication.
Instead of rivets for the bottom part, can i use self tapping screws? Also great video!
As long as the existing metal that you are going through is good I don’t see why not?
Can you tell me where you ordered the panel?
Classic 2 current fabrication
💯🔥🔥
This is ok, but there's still too much rust left behind before you epoxied. I recommend using rust reformer all over then sand the areas to be epoxied to the metal before glueing, and never glue over paint.
I agree. The 100% right way to do it would have been to sandblast any rust that was left. Then seal before epoxy in the panels. Doing this outside in the backyard I have limited equipment and use what I have.
Thanks for watching!
Where did u get this kind of rock panel?
Classic 2 current fabrication
Where did you get the covers
Classic 2 current fabrication
Did you ever post the painting and finishing video?
I have not yet. I’m kinda tired of all the haters on here and there 2 cents so I haven’t posted a video in awhile. I will get it soon and let you know! Thanks for checking back!!
@@danofalltrades3567 I want to do my 2008 Expedition and I like your approach. I wanted to know how you dealt with the rivet heads sticking up. I am looking into doing something similar but am thinking of spot welding so I can get a smooth look. I am willing to do a bit more work to get the rust out and converted and covered with sealer before attaching the panels because I want to keep the vehicle for at least another 5 years.
@@rodneysmith1684 yes spot welding would definitely be cleaner. For sure cleaning out as much rust as you can and sealing before you install the panel is best approach! I wasn’t concerned too much about the longevity of the the repair as I was getting rid of the vehicle. I think if you take your time and get as much rust out as possible, you will get a couple more years out of it! Thanks for the views and let me know if you have any more questions?
What panels did you get?
They are from classic 2 current fabrication
@@danofalltrades3567 thank you! Much cheaper than where I was shopping.
@@danofalltrades3567 one more thing, what size rivets did you use on top and bottom?
@@DJKBEATS the top was like 1/8 pretty small. I don’t remember the exact size of the bottom but they where much bigger. Like commercial grade? Hope that helps!
Stay tuned for my next video how to rock it liner over them.
A repair at reasonable costs. A little more work, and it will be done. Without r,ust treatment of the very rusty parts and the also rusted floor panels, it will last from 12 o'clock til noon, as we say in Germany. Good work in vain.😊
Rust will return rapidly with this solution.
I thought rockers were structural. This is just a cover up. A good inspector will fail it.
Where did he fail to structurally reinforce the rocker?
?? Why would you do that? You've removed any residual value from the vehicle. And that "repair" only speeds up the further degrading of the vehicle.
Your a no life
This is incredibly bad advice! It fails to eliminate the rust problem. The old metal will continue to rust and the new panel will start to rust.
Overlapping sheet metal is recipe for corrosion.
Let's see your body shop videos then......Oh wait....
Nice job! Take ur like buddy