Book a one on one class with your own personal welding instructor weldcoach.com/ Here is the Aluminum TIG Starter Kit from Weld Metals weldmetalsonline.com/collections/tigkits/products/aluminum-tig-starter-kit Here is the Aluminum Stubby Kit weldmetalsonline.com/products/aluminum-tig-consumable-stubby-kit?_pos=1&_sid=396c82107&_ss=r
The sheer VOLUME of shared knowledge in this video and camera angle(s) is nothing short of incredible. As a visual learner, I can’t thank you enough!! I feel - schooled and educated. Can’t wait to try this.
Tig welding is overwhelming for a beginner, I’ve just bought a tig machine and yet to use it, Still have to buy a bottle of argon and filler rods but this channel is helping understand it all
I remember being in the same boat, exciting times! The best thing you can do imo is buy a bunch of strip material and some tubing and start practising. Good luck!
Sharpen a bunch of tungsten to use so you can just change them instead of stopping to sharpen everytime you dip. You will dip alot at first just focus and practice keeping everything as tight as you can without dipping Your tungsten into the material or filler rod.
@riderzinc a wise man once told me that tungsten is a filler metal, it's just not always the right filler metal. Don't be afraid to dip it happens to the best of us, just lick the stamp and send it, you won't die, and keep the first weld you ever do. It's nice to look back on in 5 years
Thank you, I am enjoying your videos and learning a lot more than I thought I would. I am feeling much more relaxed while I am learning and welding tig in my home workshop. Thanks again.
I plan to do this exact exercise for mild steel and aluminum...once I get to that point...I've learned so much from these videos and The Fabrication Series that I have finally decided to give TIG a try
I only had a 20 class that showed us how to do a but joint on mig and that’s it. I had to go into the job and figure out how to do weld repair and got decent enough to teach people on the line at the factory. I’m always stoked when I hear something in a video I had to learn just by practicing and also told the people I trained. You definitely have to be creative when you only have a welder and nothing els to repair 3/16 sheet metal that’s had a quarter inch gap blown into it by a robot. The welder was also locked so we only have a little bit of room to play with the settings.
Solid dude, and quality content with more detail then you’re older videos. Hope that you’re able to over come that speed bump from the algo having taken that break from TH-cam.
Great Video, Before i saw this video I bought a stack of 3/16 x 3 inch x 12 long 6160 to practice. chopped it up in 6 inch coupons. I am using 5356 filler 3/32. This is great strategy to get the different challenges. what adjustments to the settings should i make for thicker material? I have 220v machine, should i just up the amps or cup size or 1/8 filler or what ? Thank you!
I got a cerbora tig second hand that didn't come with a pedal , the is a boc one for sale local on fb. I'm wondering if it will work. Glad I found your channel, subscribed, keep up the good work.
I just started to TIG weld, and I'm practicing like crazy!, trying to get my welds to look great...but I feel like Homer Simpson with the La Grille... "ah those welds look like a thing of beauty.... WHY DOESN'T MINE LOOK LIKE THAT?!?!" 😆😆 great video btw!
Not getting your notifications at all and the videos don't show up on my feed until 5 to 10 days later. Not sure why. I've literally watched every single video you've ever released on this and TFS channel, comment, and usually hit the like button. Maybe it's because you're such a great teacher, and "they" are just trying to keep you down. Yeah, that's definitely what it is.
Hi Justin, I would be interested to know how it works in our own shop. What sort of set-up do we need for it to work? Being on the other side of the planet is going to make it difficult. Have you done many lessons with Australia (West Australia)? How have you made it work? Chris
Coach, have you or your 'learners' ever taken a weld test in alum. TIG? No clamped work lead? Arcing through the mill scale (not disturbed/abraded - no de-greasing?? No sheared edge cleanup with sanding or Vixen file?? ) to obtain weld circuit? Not even a weighted hold down? Hope you show the 'rest of the story' some time updating your 'beginners' stage video advice with full-on accepted practices?
I watched a Video and this Dude said that #4, #5, #6 cups are useless and proceeded to shatter them on the ground.... I'm instantly calling this dude a dumbass because Justin explained why he uses a #5 on Aluminum and the science behind it.... I've never TIG welded before. I'm just waiting on a couple of things, but i have become Addicted to your videos because of how humble you are when explaining the HOW & WHY... Video suggestion... Scrap metals from random stuff for beginners to practice on... The majority of us have tons of junk around the house that is begging to be useful once again. ...
Maybe they’re useless for *Him.* Obviously, this fellow here does just *fine* with a #5. (I’m thinking to get a few of that size and then try them out when I assay aluminum.) I’ve been told earlier to not bother with “Pyrex cups” . I use them extensively (on steel tubing), like them - and they help my aging eyes see the joint. New glasses are likely to help more….
@dennisyoung4631 a larger cup has a larger area of gas coverage and the larger gas coverage area allows Arc Instability issues.... the science and explanation is what I'm appreciative of
Dear Justin, I was wondering what you think of the Everlast 255ext? I am thinking of buying one but i have to get it right the first time. Other people recommend it but i was wanting your thoughts about it?
Is the primeweld 225 supposed to display the current setting value momentarily like your 325? I’m kind of interpolating between the top and bottom and guessing right now because it just shows the current.
Amazing information, thank you so much! One question. Do I need to make sure there's a solid visible raised area (cabbage), on the back side of 1/8" aluminum, for full penetration? I asked another gentleman and he said not so much. He mentioned the haz would be weaker than the weld at that point, on thinner material. I'd really like to know, as its quite different approach, when trying to make sure theres a raised and solid line on the back, vs stopping short. Thanks for all the effort you have invested in your channels.
If you want 100 percent penetration in an aluminum TIG weld you have to use a steel/stainless backup piece with a slot cut in it. There's no other way to do it. Clamping a piece of steel under the alum does nothing. The part will always break in half. Get some stock and use a hacksaw with two blades in it to make the slot. Use a 1/16, 3/32 or 1/8 size slot for width and depth. Or use an abrasive cut off saw for the slot. Go slow with the weld, use a lot of heat and let the weld puddle sink in to the slot. The slot should be filled with aluminum when your done. Now you have a choice to grind off the bottom weld (cabbage) or leave it be. It makes no difference in the strength of the weld. This is standard practice in all fab and military spec welding of aluminum. It's mostly used on light gauge stock up to 1/4 inch. Why is it that nobody mentions this on welding forums, they're fired if they don't use it. And don't clean the oil off steel or stainless.
@@georgebuck2269 Oh wow, great info and makes good sense! I assume leave the oil on the backing, as it will resist sticking to the aluminum puddle a little more? How would this be accomplished on tubing or pipe? Thank you so much for the detailed reply!
@@shanesplanetshane3795The comment about cleaning the oil off steel was not referring to any aluminum welding, oil and aluminum don't mix well. About the question for welding pipe, you can't use that backup technique that I mentioned for pipe, It's only for flat stock. You get a 100 percent weld by filling the pipe/tubing with Argon. Cap off one end and and add a small hole in the cap, attach an Argon supply to the other end of the pipe. Find a video called 'How to purge pipe for welding.' Aluminum is the only common metal that has to be free of oil, grease, paint, gum from labels and anodized plating or coating. Grind or sand the weld area to remove the oxide layer and dirt. Aluminum is also cleaned with a stainless wire brush and acetone. Most medium to large welding shops have tanks with a mild acid to etch and remove the oxide layer, it also leaves the aluminum very clean. This etching process is mandatory for military spec MIG and TIG welding of aluminum.
every time i try to tack, i just end up burning away the metal and rarely do the pools come together. ive tried everything from slow, flash tack, aiming at diff spots, brushing and cleaning but nothing helps. im bout to give up
I thought adding your bare arm to the grounded table adds you to the circuit... As we don't see you cook I'm wrong, but I don't understand why? Also, it looks like the base plate is screwed down to the table. Assuming that's zinc coated isn't that a hazard, or is that only when you directly weld zinc?
No, your skin does not conduct current well enough to make you part of the circuit. It does look like the aluminum plate he's working on is screwed to the fixture table. It's just to keep it from moving while he's filming. Also, there is no galvanized material anywhere near this video. It's a cheaper mild steel fixture table with an aluminum plate on top of it. That's just something that he uses to weld on, mostly to keep stuff from falling through the holes in the table, but it's also a great heat sink.
Is the type of aluminum crucial beyond “it must be a weldable alloy” - e.g. 1100, 3003, 5052, or 6061???? As in, “if you haven’t done aluminum since the late eighties, the *3003* will be marginally easier…”) (I *have* some 5052, albeit thinner than 1/8th.)
If it's weldable and you have the associated filler to match, then it's not a big deal. 5052 and 6061 are the easiest to get from Curtis Steel, which is only a few minutes away. 4043 and 5356 fillers are also available down the street from his shop.
Nice video. Just wondering why we didn't see any close-ups of your welds and then explain what you thought was wrong with the welds that you did the way you commented on them during the video?
This is hard to explain, but I'll try.... if you look at what you "did" versus what you are "doing" at that moment in time, you are setting yourself back. Look at what is in front of you and figure it out. This exercise is presented in that fashion - it happened how it happened right then and there. Maybe next time I'll catch it in the moment and not worry about trying to figure out what was already done that can't be fixed. Make sense?
@@WeldCoachOfficial thank you for taking the time to reply to me. I believe I understand what you're trying to say. You are an excellent teacher as well as have an excellent stage presence to be able to teach with understanding.
Can watch all of his videos, almost never shows a close up, just tells you "turned out pretty good" and you get a quick flash of it from a distance. Draw your own conclusions. That said, still a great teacher and this is a great example of a practice drill
@@alanarthur-ni3nwhe almost always shows the closeups and arc shots in his videos. The few times he didn't it's usually because the camera wasn't on or the shots turned out bad or overexposed. Not because it's bad work. Furthermore, this dude is a fucking legend in the fabrication industry and has no problem with people seeing his work.
So I’m new to this. No schooling no one to watch from. Mainly experienced with stick. I didn’t know u can ground the table out while leaning on it with skin contacting the surface and not get shocked? How are you not getting shocked
For electrical safety moisture on your skin does give you a more lethal shock. When you unplug that extension cord with water on your hand it's not good.
Firstly, I'm a beginner, but my aluminum game is coming along really well, thanks to you, and others that I won't mention on your channel. But with all the respect I can muster, I'd like to point out that you are teaching as a professional, and short sleeves and welding is not the best example to set. All that UV.
People came here for the title and not for added health and safety, people know the risks and will always do what they want. I do it with tig, so does he, I'd rather him be comfortable so he can teach to his full potential, but who cares? We came for the knowledge in the title and don't appreciate wasted time.
This is by far one of the best welding instructors out there. I would love to have a class with you Justin. But being in South Africa makes that a bit difficult. Question, I have a decent (on the cheaper side) auto darkening helmet. It works great in most situations. TIG and MIG. But sometimes when doing a T-joint, the hood will just stop to darken, or go into what feels like grind mode to me. Sometimes it will do that for a second or two and then darken again, and sometimes I have to stop welding completely. Why would it do that?
You might be obstructing the sensor with your hand or arm or glove. Happens to me with my 700 dollar helmet, too. Just try to be conscious of it next time and see if that helps. If it has a sensitivity setting, try turning it up.
I’m not a professional, however my guess would be that it’s a sacrificial platform for actual aluminum products because the steel table will contaminate any aluminum it touches. Not that it matters much for practice pieces anyways
Good video, but I have been welding aluminum for the last 15 years. That being said, your welds would come out cleaner if you brushed the oxidation off using a stainless brush.
I was thinking the same but if the A/C balance is set to like 70% EN/30% EP and the aluminum was brand new, would it make much of a difference? I haven’t welded much aluminum over the years and even then it was mostly older pieces lol
He sets the post flow to ten seconds, and says to not move the torch to allow the gas to cool the tungsten, but yet rips the torch away after termination of each weld 🤔
@@gabelizr1308Yes sir you are correct. Tungsten is special alloy and it reacts with oxygen when it's hot, so it makes the tungsten brittle and is now contaminated. The latest silly myth on welding forums is to hold the TIG torch on the weld after it's done. Just like another foolish myth that has been created like cleaning oil off steel or stainless. I only clean aluminum, I want to keep my job and get a raise.
I really like the video, however you demonstrate proper PPE by wearing long sleeves and safety glasses. I'm always hesitant to show videos to my students when the "teacher" doesn't follow safety protocol.
Understood. However, my glasses are safety glasses with a blue light filter and aniti-reflective UV coating. If you pay even closer attention to my arm positioning, you'll notice I have less exposure to the arc than walking outside on a summer day. Admittedly, I should cover my arms, but my lesson of being stubborn for 20+ years could also be a lesson to your students of what not to do. It's up to you to teach the lesson with the provided resources.
Ah, you guys complain too much about your age. I’m 74 and still welding. I don’t use my age as an excuse for my screwups. I’ve screwed up when I was younger too.
Ya like that rip off one day welder on Facebook. I keep going around and around with that guy. Thinks he can teach someone how to weld good enough in one day to repair a trailer that someone is going to pull down the road Guys like that are the ones that first give the rest of us a bad reputation and 2nd undermind are work and jobs that most of us have been doing half are lives or longer
Book a one on one class with your own personal welding instructor
weldcoach.com/
Here is the Aluminum TIG Starter Kit from Weld Metals
weldmetalsonline.com/collections/tigkits/products/aluminum-tig-starter-kit
Here is the Aluminum Stubby Kit
weldmetalsonline.com/products/aluminum-tig-consumable-stubby-kit?_pos=1&_sid=396c82107&_ss=r
How much is the one on one class?
The sheer VOLUME of shared knowledge in this video and camera angle(s) is nothing short of incredible. As a visual learner, I can’t thank you enough!! I feel - schooled and educated. Can’t wait to try this.
Tig welding is overwhelming for a beginner, I’ve just bought a tig machine and yet to use it, Still have to buy a bottle of argon and filler rods but this channel is helping understand it all
It certainly can be, especially if you don't have someone to help you break it all down into simpler ideas. Good luck, and don't give up
I remember being in the same boat, exciting times! The best thing you can do imo is buy a bunch of strip material and some tubing and start practising. Good luck!
Sharpen a bunch of tungsten to use so you can just change them instead of stopping to sharpen everytime you dip. You will dip alot at first just focus and practice keeping everything as tight as you can without dipping Your tungsten into the material or filler rod.
@riderzinc Sono nella tua identica situazione... Sto aspettando il flussimetro, poi si parte!! 😊💪🏻🤓
@riderzinc a wise man once told me that tungsten is a filler metal, it's just not always the right filler metal. Don't be afraid to dip it happens to the best of us, just lick the stamp and send it, you won't die, and keep the first weld you ever do. It's nice to look back on in 5 years
A 24 Minute video?! Hell yeah, yes please! 👍👍
By far this is the best channel for learning and understanding the mysteries of aluminum tig welding and has helped me alot at my job
Awesome video Justin!!!!!! Well done sir!
I pass today becouse of you my Mentor❤❤❤❤❤
Outstanding tutorial , very clear and concise with great arc shots to back the explanation.
Really good video. Arranging the five coupons the way you did gives a lot of variety if joints.
Outstanding Sir! My hat is off! 👍👍👍
Thank you, I am enjoying your videos and learning a lot more than I thought I would. I am feeling much more relaxed while I am learning and welding tig in my home workshop. Thanks again.
I’m doing this exact weld for a test at school. Thanks!
Amazing video explaining why certain things happen. One of the best teachers
I plan to do this exact exercise for mild steel and aluminum...once I get to that point...I've learned so much from these videos and The Fabrication Series that I have finally decided to give TIG a try
This video is the best Christmas gift ever. 🎄🎄👍🎄🎄
Justin, you information is always appreciated, Paul 'Paulie' Brown down in Florida....
Great tutorial I enjoyed it and learned some things to practice
Thanks mate 👍
Just did this excersize. I'm gonna need more aluminium.
I only had a 20 class that showed us how to do a but joint on mig and that’s it. I had to go into the job and figure out how to do weld repair and got decent enough to teach people on the line at the factory. I’m always stoked when I hear something in a video I had to learn just by practicing and also told the people I trained. You definitely have to be creative when you only have a welder and nothing els to repair 3/16 sheet metal that’s had a quarter inch gap blown into it by a robot. The welder was also locked so we only have a little bit of room to play with the settings.
Wow, you are a good teacher!
I’m always learning! Thanks Justin!
Solid dude, and quality content with more detail then you’re older videos. Hope that you’re able to over come that speed bump from the algo having taken that break from TH-cam.
Thanks for the videos mate, you have really helped me with your content. Thanks again CH.
Thanks, Coach!
Thanks Weld Coach !!!
great info thanks. subscribed.
Thanks
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very nice interesting work
Great Video, Before i saw this video I bought a stack of 3/16 x 3 inch x 12 long 6160 to practice. chopped it up in 6 inch coupons. I am using 5356 filler 3/32. This is great strategy to get the different challenges. what adjustments to the settings should i make for thicker material? I have 220v machine, should i just up the amps or cup size or 1/8 filler or what ? Thank you!
I got a cerbora tig second hand that didn't come with a pedal , the is a boc one for sale local on fb. I'm wondering if it will work. Glad I found your channel, subscribed, keep up the good work.
I just started to TIG weld, and I'm practicing like crazy!, trying to get my welds to look great...but I feel like Homer Simpson with the La Grille...
"ah those welds look like a thing of beauty....
WHY DOESN'T MINE LOOK LIKE THAT?!?!"
😆😆
great video btw!
Not getting your notifications at all and the videos don't show up on my feed until 5 to 10 days later.
Not sure why. I've literally watched every single video you've ever released on this and TFS channel, comment, and usually hit the like button.
Maybe it's because you're such a great teacher, and "they" are just trying to keep you down. Yeah, that's definitely what it is.
"Is this some kind of bust?" "Well, that's very impressive, yes, but I'd like to ask you a few questions."
We're not Mimi Dejour... And don't call me Shirley.
@@WeldCoachOfficial XD
great video, if we can get a tutorial on carbon steel with weldmetalonline's kit that would be great!
Thank you so much!!!
Hi Justin, I would be interested to know how it works in our own shop. What sort of set-up do we need for it to work? Being on the other side of the planet is going to make it difficult. Have you done many lessons with Australia (West Australia)? How have you made it work?
Chris
Send me a message or email, and I'll set up a test free of charge. I'd really like to test our platform out.
Is there a reason for not brushing the oxide layer?
Nice video, really liked it
Don't forget the two edge welds.
Coach, have you or your 'learners' ever taken a weld test in alum. TIG? No clamped work lead? Arcing through the mill scale (not disturbed/abraded - no de-greasing?? No sheared edge cleanup with sanding or Vixen file?? ) to obtain weld circuit? Not even a weighted hold down? Hope you show the 'rest of the story' some time updating your 'beginners' stage video advice with full-on accepted practices?
I watched a Video and this Dude said that #4, #5, #6 cups are useless and proceeded to shatter them on the ground.... I'm instantly calling this dude a dumbass because Justin explained why he uses a #5 on Aluminum and the science behind it....
I've never TIG welded before. I'm just waiting on a couple of things, but i have become Addicted to your videos because of how humble you are when explaining the HOW & WHY...
Video suggestion... Scrap metals from random stuff for beginners to practice on... The majority of us have tons of junk around the house that is begging to be useful once again. ...
Maybe they’re useless for *Him.*
Obviously, this fellow here does just *fine* with a #5. (I’m thinking to get a few of that size and then try them out when I assay aluminum.)
I’ve been told earlier to not bother with “Pyrex cups” . I use them extensively (on steel tubing), like them - and they help my aging eyes see the joint. New glasses are likely to help more….
@dennisyoung4631 a larger cup has a larger area of gas coverage and the larger gas coverage area allows Arc Instability issues.... the science and explanation is what I'm appreciative of
Thank you sir
Wow, that really freaked me out for a few seconds when you switched from your radio voice to your normal voice :)
I'm on the tail end of a cold. I think I sound weird in this vid.
Dear Justin, I was wondering what you think of the Everlast 255ext? I am thinking of buying one but i have to get it right the first time. Other people recommend it but i was wanting your thoughts about it?
At 16:40 you said, “if it turns into a horseshoe don’t chase it”, what is a horseshoe and what do you do if it does horseshoe?
A steel 'horseshoe' is nailed to the bottom of a horses hoof so it doesn't wear down.
Is the primeweld 225 supposed to display the current setting value momentarily like your 325? I’m kind of interpolating between the top and bottom and guessing right now because it just shows the current.
Amazing information, thank you so much! One question. Do I need to make sure there's a solid visible raised area (cabbage), on the back side of 1/8" aluminum, for full penetration? I asked another gentleman and he said not so much. He mentioned the haz would be weaker than the weld at that point, on thinner material. I'd really like to know, as its quite different approach, when trying to make sure theres a raised and solid line on the back, vs stopping short. Thanks for all the effort you have invested in your channels.
No, it's not absolutely necessary. Consider the application of your work and use the appropriate amount of current and filler for job.
If you want 100 percent penetration in an aluminum TIG weld you have to use a steel/stainless backup piece with a slot cut in it. There's no other way to do it. Clamping a piece of steel under the alum does nothing. The part will always break in half. Get some stock and use a hacksaw with two blades in it to make the slot. Use a 1/16, 3/32 or 1/8 size slot for width and depth. Or use an abrasive cut off saw for the slot. Go slow with the weld, use a lot of heat and let the weld puddle sink in to the slot. The slot should be filled with aluminum when your done. Now you have a choice to grind off the bottom weld (cabbage) or leave it be. It makes no difference in the strength of the weld. This is standard practice in all fab and military spec welding of aluminum. It's mostly used on light gauge stock up to 1/4 inch. Why is it that nobody mentions this on welding forums, they're fired if they don't use it. And don't clean the oil off steel or stainless.
@@georgebuck2269 Oh wow, great info and makes good sense! I assume leave the oil on the backing, as it will resist sticking to the aluminum puddle a little more? How would this be accomplished on tubing or pipe? Thank you so much for the detailed reply!
@@shanesplanetshane3795The comment about cleaning the oil off steel was not referring to any aluminum welding, oil and aluminum don't mix well. About the question for welding pipe, you can't use that backup technique that I mentioned for pipe, It's only for flat stock. You get a 100 percent weld by filling the pipe/tubing with Argon. Cap off one end and and add a small hole in the cap, attach an Argon supply to the other end of the pipe. Find a video called 'How to purge pipe for welding.' Aluminum is the only common metal that has to be free of oil, grease, paint, gum from labels and anodized plating or coating. Grind or sand the weld area to remove the oxide layer and dirt. Aluminum is also cleaned with a stainless wire brush and acetone. Most medium to large welding shops have tanks with a mild acid to etch and remove the oxide layer, it also leaves the aluminum very clean. This etching process is mandatory for military spec MIG and TIG welding of aluminum.
Any chance you will do a video welding stainless steel???
Same as steel except the filler rod.
every time i try to tack, i just end up burning away the metal and rarely do the pools come together. ive tried everything from slow, flash tack, aiming at diff spots, brushing and cleaning but nothing helps. im bout to give up
Hi I’m just starting to tig weld is there a tungsten that will do pretty much everything there’s that many to choose from I’m lost
At 16:40 you said “if it horseshoes”, what is that and what do you do if it does horseshoe?
I thought adding your bare arm to the grounded table adds you to the circuit... As we don't see you cook I'm wrong, but I don't understand why? Also, it looks like the base plate is screwed down to the table. Assuming that's zinc coated isn't that a hazard, or is that only when you directly weld zinc?
No, your skin does not conduct current well enough to make you part of the circuit. It does look like the aluminum plate he's working on is screwed to the fixture table. It's just to keep it from moving while he's filming.
Also, there is no galvanized material anywhere near this video. It's a cheaper mild steel fixture table with an aluminum plate on top of it. That's just something that he uses to weld on, mostly to keep stuff from falling through the holes in the table, but it's also a great heat sink.
Is the type of aluminum crucial beyond “it must be a weldable alloy” - e.g. 1100, 3003, 5052, or 6061???? As in, “if you haven’t done aluminum since the late eighties, the *3003* will be marginally easier…”)
(I *have* some 5052, albeit thinner than 1/8th.)
If it's weldable and you have the associated filler to match, then it's not a big deal. 5052 and 6061 are the easiest to get from Curtis Steel, which is only a few minutes away. 4043 and 5356 fillers are also available down the street from his shop.
When u are from estonia and want to order weldmetalsonline then i cant xD cuz shipping is crazy :D got any ideas ?
Can a tig ac convert aluminum oxide into aluminum? Im thinking if we can recycling aluminum using tig ac.
Nice video. Just wondering why we didn't see any close-ups of your welds and then explain what you thought was wrong with the welds that you did the way you commented on them during the video?
This is hard to explain, but I'll try.... if you look at what you "did" versus what you are "doing" at that moment in time, you are setting yourself back. Look at what is in front of you and figure it out. This exercise is presented in that fashion - it happened how it happened right then and there. Maybe next time I'll catch it in the moment and not worry about trying to figure out what was already done that can't be fixed. Make sense?
@@WeldCoachOfficial thank you for taking the time to reply to me. I believe I understand what you're trying to say. You are an excellent teacher as well as have an excellent stage presence to be able to teach with understanding.
Can watch all of his videos, almost never shows a close up, just tells you "turned out pretty good" and you get a quick flash of it from a distance. Draw your own conclusions. That said, still a great teacher and this is a great example of a practice drill
@@alanarthur-ni3nwhe almost always shows the closeups and arc shots in his videos. The few times he didn't it's usually because the camera wasn't on or the shots turned out bad or overexposed. Not because it's bad work.
Furthermore, this dude is a fucking legend in the fabrication industry and has no problem with people seeing his work.
So I’m new to this. No schooling no one to watch from. Mainly experienced with stick. I didn’t know u can ground the table out while leaning on it with skin contacting the surface and not get shocked? How are you not getting shocked
Is it tru if your arm gets sweaty you will be easily shocked with arm on table
For electrical safety moisture on your skin does give you a more lethal shock. When you unplug that extension cord with water on your hand it's not good.
Firstly, I'm a beginner, but my aluminum game is coming along really well, thanks to you, and others that I won't mention on your channel. But with all the respect I can muster, I'd like to point out that you are teaching as a professional, and short sleeves and welding is not the best example to set. All that UV.
Someone in the comments always says this.
sorry, your point is?
People came here for the title and not for added health and safety, people know the risks and will always do what they want.
I do it with tig, so does he, I'd rather him be comfortable so he can teach to his full potential, but who cares?
We came for the knowledge in the title and don't appreciate wasted time.
This is by far one of the best welding instructors out there.
I would love to have a class with you Justin. But being in South Africa makes that a bit difficult.
Question, I have a decent (on the cheaper side) auto darkening helmet. It works great in most situations. TIG and MIG. But sometimes when doing a T-joint, the hood will just stop to darken, or go into what feels like grind mode to me. Sometimes it will do that for a second or two and then darken again, and sometimes I have to stop welding completely.
Why would it do that?
You might be obstructing the sensor with your hand or arm or glove. Happens to me with my 700 dollar helmet, too. Just try to be conscious of it next time and see if that helps. If it has a sensitivity setting, try turning it up.
What do you think about the helmet your using far as visually
I use the Optrel Crystal 2.0 (highly customized). I've never seen a weld the same through any other lens.
@@TheFabricatorSeries Is the view through you Optrel lens similar to the camera weld shots?
@jeffeilenberger5856 same clarity/color as the arc shot but you can see everything around you while you're welding.
Are you letting this cool down or all in real time?
Welding was shot in one single take "as is" with no cool down.
Why do you have a plate on top of your welding table?
I’m not a professional, however my guess would be that it’s a sacrificial platform for actual aluminum products because the steel table will contaminate any aluminum it touches. Not that it matters much for practice pieces anyways
Good video, but I have been welding aluminum for the last 15 years. That being said, your welds would come out cleaner if you brushed the oxidation off using a stainless brush.
I was thinking the same but if the A/C balance is set to like 70% EN/30% EP and the aluminum was brand new, would it make much of a difference? I haven’t welded much aluminum over the years and even then it was mostly older pieces lol
Was this done on 110 or 220? Can it be done on 110?
Some 110v machines can push around 170ish amps, give or take. So, yes this can be done on 110v, but 200v machines are far superior.
@@InchFab I have a 220 machine, but only 110 in my garage
He sets the post flow to ten seconds, and says to not move the torch to allow the gas to cool the tungsten, but yet rips the torch away after termination of each weld 🤔
Post flow is for the Tungsten. Not for the weld.
@@gabelizr1308Yes sir you are correct. Tungsten is special alloy and it reacts with oxygen when it's hot, so it makes the tungsten brittle and is now contaminated. The latest silly myth on welding forums is to hold the TIG torch on the weld after it's done. Just like another foolish myth that has been created like cleaning oil off steel or stainless. I only clean aluminum, I want to keep my job and get a raise.
How on earth are you wearing short sleeves? I have UV burnt the hell out of myself doing that.
If you have done so, you had exposed your skin to the arc.
You can see that he never done this.
His skin is always in the shadows
I'm still trying to figure out how to now shake my feed hand like a wet dog. Even propped.
I really like the video, however you demonstrate proper PPE by wearing long sleeves and safety glasses. I'm always hesitant to show videos to my students when the "teacher" doesn't follow safety protocol.
Understood. However, my glasses are safety glasses with a blue light filter and aniti-reflective UV coating. If you pay even closer attention to my arm positioning, you'll notice I have less exposure to the arc than walking outside on a summer day. Admittedly, I should cover my arms, but my lesson of being stubborn for 20+ years could also be a lesson to your students of what not to do. It's up to you to teach the lesson with the provided resources.
You‘re so right. 😌👍🏻
I'll take all your ugly welds 😂...my 57yr old abused hands aren't as steady as the used to be..but I'm still glueing things together
Ah, you guys complain too much about your age. I’m 74 and still welding. I don’t use my age as an excuse for my screwups. I’ve screwed up when I was younger too.
Nice gloves Bro. Looks sexy! 😂👍
Ya like that rip off one day welder on Facebook. I keep going around and around with that guy. Thinks he can teach someone how to weld good enough in one day to repair a trailer that someone is going to pull down the road
Guys like that are the ones that first give the rest of us a bad reputation and 2nd undermind are work and jobs that most of us have been doing half are lives or longer
What a sellout, 33$ for few pieces of alluminium, what a joke
Don't forget to draw file boys.