Watched more knot strength tests than I can possibly recall Even done several of my own I have come to a conclusion that the only way a knot strength test can be fair and accurate is if you use a system to apply weight to the line that can maintain a consistent exact weight and you can increase the weight also at a exact and constant rate and do so at increments of say 5% of the lines advertised breaking strength and if using 10lb tge test should be done at 10.25lbs 10.5kbs 10.75lbs 11.0lbs etc Until the line or knot fails Lastly the test should be conducted a minimum of 3x per knot 5x would be best Then soak each section of test line submerged in water for at least 15 minutes prior to immediately being tested and see if being submerged in water affects the breaking strength of both the knot and line In MY OPINION applying ever increasing weight by hand is simply much to inconsistent to be a reliable test method.
Gerald Swindle a Bass Pro uses a knot most pro bass fisherman use I understand, Double thru eye then spin jig four or more times then put loop thru loop by eye tighten ,leaves 3 tag ends, video is better than my explantion, seems strong please check it out. Thanks
Testing knots is frustrating, especially when you learn that the strongest knot in one line is not the strongest knot in another. Izorline XXX 4lb copolymer line: Palomar = Fish-n-fool > Uni > Improved clinch Maxima Ultragreen 8lb copolymer line: Palomar = SD Jam = Fish-n-fool > Improved clinch > Uni Izorline XXX 10lb copolymer line: Spangler > Fisn-n-fool > SD Jam > Palomar > Improved clinch > Uni Ande Premium 20lb mono: Fish-n-fool > Spangler > Palomar > Improved clinch > Uni Izorline XXX 30lb copolymer line: SD Jam > Improved clinch > Uni > Palomar > Fish-n-fool Interestingly, the Fish-n-fool knot in Izorline XXX 30lb was *weaker* than a Palomar knot in Ande Premium 20lb! Total surprise, given the performance of the Fisn-n-fool knot in all other lines tested. Why? No clue. And more food for thought: my testing revealed that snells are not the strongest method of attaching a hook to a line. I tried every method I could find, and a bunch I made up. And final bit of food for thought: Maybe you shouldn't use the strongest knot possible in all situations. The strength of some knots in some mono lines is close enough to the breaking strength of the mono that the mono will suffer permanent loss of strength before the knot breaks. So, if you have a bunch of line out, and you have a super strong knot on the end, and you get snagged, and you pull on the line until the knot breaks, the strength of the entire length of line not on the reel may now be significantly compromised. The degree varies by line type.
It would appear, that when care is taken trying the knot, the Palomar and the double Uni are exactly the same as the both had breaks away from the knot. Hard to say one wins when both have breaks away from the knot. That said, the Palomar only broke at the knot once, and the double uni broke at the knot twice. On this test, Palomar wins.
Suggest you try the improved Palomar that's what I use for braid to luers I believe it is essentially impossible to accurately determine knot and line breaking strength using a inconsistent application of a non controlled force such as the one you use introduces far to many variables that are literally different every time you test and are impossible to consistently replicate each test Only way to even begin to achieve test consistency is by using a mechanical means to apply force that does it as close to the same every time as mechanically possible Such tools do exist I've seen people use them to do knot strength tests I do though recommend everyone do thier own knot strength tests I realize doing my own knot strength tests accomplished something very important but required I do at lest 30 tests with each knot Desbite exercising great care tying each knot Doing 30 tests per knot showed me I was at least 5% of the time making one or more errors when trying the knots that reduced thier breaking strength by a minimum of 60% to as much as 80% Doing 30 of the same knot at a single test session then testing them taught me exactly what a perfectly tied knot FEELS and yes SOUNDS like (as in it should make NO sound at all while cinching down) while cinching it tight , LOOKS like when complete I MY EXPERIENCE 85-90% of the knots I tested and then failed (by failed means the knot not the line failed at anything below 90% of line strength) absolutely both felt abnormal while I cinched them down and looked abnormal when complete or made some noise while I cinched it down without exception every knot that made a sound as I cinched it down failed miserably But what I found that made me eliminate a knot I had been using for 30 years was approximately 5% of the knots I tied that looked felt and sounded perfectly done failed miserably by either breaking at less than 50% of line strength or slipped and came undone My observations convinced me it was as I cinched the knot down I was either damaging the line or committing an error I admit it wasn't the knots fault it was mine but In my opinion the way you must tie this particular knot resulted in FOR ME introducing an unacceptably high inherent rate of failure I switched to a knot that cinched down in my opinion in a much more smooth and consistent manner vs my old favorite And 30 tests later none of my knots failed I repeated this test using both of the test lines I fish with 8lb, and 15lb and found again line broke before the knot 100% I also learned after tying over 100 knots under ideal controlled circumstances four things #1 I tie about 5% of my fishing knots incorrectly #2 it is absolutely unavoidable that You WILL tie fishing knots incorrectly #3 you absolutely MUST know precisely how a correctly tied knot feels looks and sounds so you can recognize when you tie one incorrectly #4 most important of all if absolutely anything looks feels or sounds abnormal about your knot cut it off and re tie or YOU WILL wish you had
Observation: I'm not a scientist, however, if the line is breaking and not either knot, then both knots are equally strong with 15 lb test. I believe the reason why you're getting different readings is due to very slightly, yet unequal pull speed during your tests. Don't get me wrong, it was an excellent test. Since neither knot is breaking, it's the actual strength of the line that is the weakest link in the equation; and therefore the line should break at nearly the identical weight with each knot, because you're using the same line. Right? To find out which knot is truly the strongest, you have to find at what lb test the knot breaks and not the line. As an example if the Double Uni Knot breaks (not the line) with 100 lb test, but the Palomar knot breaks with 110 lb test, then the Palomar knot is truly stronger. Make sense? Having said all that, I do appreciate your videos and the time and effort it takes to make them. Thank you!
Thank you for laying that out.... I was thinking the same. Most of these videos testing knot strength are achieving the line strength and not the knots. But, if the knots exceed the breaking strength of the line and they do not slip.... that is all I need to know. ;)
Instinctually, I think most, if not all, of these knots are designed to hold long after the line breaks regardless of the test line. An experiment I'd like to see would be with the knots in water (as water is a natural lubricant) as this would be more practical and would show which knot is really non-slip. Heck, I'd recommend wetting the knots with WD40 to see which would unravel first. I'm sure the classic clinch knot would fail almost right away.
Line variations play a part. Variations in how you tie the knot also play a part. For example, not fully setting a knot before testing it often results in premature failure. The double-uni knot can deform the line if you're not careful, causing premature failure. Pulling too hard or too fast on a knot while setting it can overheat or overstress the line, causing premature failure. When you're setting a knot, variations in your technique can produce variations in knot strength. Some knots are more sensitive to this than others. When you're testing a knot, the amount of moisture remaining within the knot also impacts knot strength. On a side note, most fishing lines in the U.S. have breaking strength higher than advertised. We see this clearly illustrated in this video, where a line rated for 15lbs breaking strength actually broke closer to 30lbs. If you want line that breaks at or below the actual rating, get something I.G.F.A. approved.
I sure wish you had done that triple granny you mentioned. I know it wouldn't have been on top but im wondering if it would have been on the bottom. Maybe i should dig up my old scale and satisfy my curiosity. Thanks for posting this video brother
Can’t wait for your mono test. Hope you include the line diameter, can’t trust the manufacturers line weight rating. Great job. Love the vid. Keep it going
Hey Nick I’d like to see how a Jimmy Houston knot stacks up to those two in a future video. I never used it but it looks cool. I think most of use a palomar knot because it’s easy and it works. Thanks for sharing
Have you done an actual break strength test of the line? Seems like getting an average of that would help in determining what the knot is doing? I've been thinking for awhile that the palomar knot would seem to expose less line to potential damage during the tightening?
Did you ever do the strongest line test? I use CXX also. I’ve used it since it hit the market and it’ll be hard to beat. The only way to test lines fairly by brand is by comparing same diameter, not what the box rates it’s test strength. Some brands under rate a thicker line to make their brand look good. Sunline will be thinner than most brands because they are closer to the actual break rating. Gamma is probably the only line that can beat CXX but you’ll pay a lot more for it.
Not really surprising. Look at a block and tackle set-up. You get the mechanical advantage simply having the load divideded across multiple lines, so barring any crimps, abrasions, etc. from the act of tying, you would expect two wraps of a line would carry about twice as much. However, there is no way that a human can exactly duplicate the stresses and abrasions from one knot to the next of the same knot. Also, you have manufacturing variations in the line that can effect it.
non-scientific test setup, anchoring, fastening...in lieu of jig hook, utilize hardened full-circle rings (same girth-diameter as jig hook eye)...inconsistent pressure loading...insufficient data collection...trilene questioned yet no response..
The Trilene is not a single line knot. Ive been tying the Trilene for years along with the Palomar. Ive never seen a Trilene single wrap through the hook eye. The real Trilene knot is just shy of the Palomar in strength.
The trilene knot is a double stranded knot. I think you had something else instead
I was wondering this as well...
Lines crossed inside the hook eye maybe.
I think the same. The Palomar and the trilene are often very similar in results.
Watched more knot strength tests than I can possibly recall
Even done several of my own
I have come to a conclusion that the only way a knot strength test can be fair and accurate is if you use a system to apply weight to the line that can maintain a consistent exact weight and you can increase the weight also at a exact and constant rate and do so at increments of say 5% of the lines advertised breaking strength and if using 10lb tge test should be done at
10.25lbs
10.5kbs
10.75lbs
11.0lbs etc
Until the line or knot fails
Lastly the test should be conducted a minimum of 3x per knot 5x would be best
Then soak each section of test line submerged in water for at least 15 minutes prior to immediately being tested and see if being submerged in water affects the breaking strength of both the knot and line
In MY OPINION applying ever increasing weight by hand is simply much to inconsistent to be a reliable test method.
The regular Trilene knot is a double line through the eye knot
I tie a double, improved cinch knot, recommended by ?? at Fisherman’s Warehouse.. Fantastic knott.
Gerald Swindle a Bass Pro uses a knot most pro bass fisherman use I understand, Double thru eye then spin jig four or more times then put loop thru loop by eye tighten ,leaves 3 tag ends, video is better than my explantion, seems strong please check it out. Thanks
Equal lenth pulls make a difference as well
Testing knots is frustrating, especially when you learn that the strongest knot in one line is not the strongest knot in another.
Izorline XXX 4lb copolymer line:
Palomar = Fish-n-fool > Uni > Improved clinch
Maxima Ultragreen 8lb copolymer line:
Palomar = SD Jam = Fish-n-fool > Improved clinch > Uni
Izorline XXX 10lb copolymer line:
Spangler > Fisn-n-fool > SD Jam > Palomar > Improved clinch > Uni
Ande Premium 20lb mono:
Fish-n-fool > Spangler > Palomar > Improved clinch > Uni
Izorline XXX 30lb copolymer line:
SD Jam > Improved clinch > Uni > Palomar > Fish-n-fool
Interestingly, the Fish-n-fool knot in Izorline XXX 30lb was *weaker* than a Palomar knot in Ande Premium 20lb! Total surprise, given the performance of the Fisn-n-fool knot in all other lines tested. Why? No clue.
And more food for thought: my testing revealed that snells are not the strongest method of attaching a hook to a line. I tried every method I could find, and a bunch I made up.
And final bit of food for thought: Maybe you shouldn't use the strongest knot possible in all situations. The strength of some knots in some mono lines is close enough to the breaking strength of the mono that the mono will suffer permanent loss of strength before the knot breaks. So, if you have a bunch of line out, and you have a super strong knot on the end, and you get snagged, and you pull on the line until the knot breaks, the strength of the entire length of line not on the reel may now be significantly compromised. The degree varies by line type.
I tie a double, improved cinch knot, recommended by ?? at Fisherman’s Warehouse.. Fantastic
It would appear, that when care is taken trying the knot, the Palomar and the double Uni are exactly the same as the both had breaks away from the knot.
Hard to say one wins when both have breaks away from the knot.
That said, the Palomar only broke at the knot once, and the double uni broke at the knot twice.
On this test, Palomar wins.
Suggest you try the improved Palomar that's what I use for braid to luers
I believe it is essentially impossible to accurately determine knot and line breaking strength using a inconsistent application of a non controlled force such as the one you use introduces far to many variables that are literally different every time you test and are impossible to consistently replicate each test
Only way to even begin to achieve test consistency is by using a mechanical means to apply force that does it as close to the same every time as mechanically possible
Such tools do exist I've seen people use them to do knot strength tests
I do though recommend everyone do thier own knot strength tests
I realize doing my own knot strength tests accomplished something very important but required I do at lest 30 tests with each knot
Desbite exercising great care tying each knot
Doing 30 tests per knot showed me I was at least 5% of the time making one or more errors when trying the knots that reduced thier breaking strength by a minimum of 60% to as much as 80%
Doing 30 of the same knot at a single test session then testing them taught me exactly what a perfectly tied knot FEELS and yes SOUNDS like (as in it should make NO sound at all while cinching down) while cinching it tight , LOOKS like when complete
I MY EXPERIENCE 85-90% of the knots I tested and then failed (by failed means the knot not the line failed at anything below 90% of line strength) absolutely both felt abnormal while I cinched them down and looked abnormal when complete or made some noise while I cinched it down without exception every knot that made a sound as I cinched it down failed miserably
But what I found that made me eliminate a knot I had been using for 30 years was approximately 5% of the knots I tied that looked felt and sounded perfectly done failed miserably by either breaking at less than 50% of line strength or slipped and came undone
My observations convinced me it was as I cinched the knot down I was either damaging the line or committing an error
I admit it wasn't the knots fault it was mine but In my opinion the way you must tie this particular knot resulted in FOR ME introducing an unacceptably high inherent rate of failure
I switched to a knot that cinched down in my opinion in a much more smooth and consistent manner vs my old favorite
And 30 tests later none of my knots failed
I repeated this test using both of the test lines I fish with 8lb, and 15lb and found again line broke before the knot 100%
I also learned after tying over 100 knots under ideal controlled circumstances four things
#1 I tie about 5% of my fishing knots incorrectly
#2 it is absolutely unavoidable that You WILL tie fishing knots incorrectly
#3 you absolutely MUST know precisely how a correctly tied knot feels looks and sounds so you can recognize when you tie one incorrectly
#4 most important of all if absolutely anything looks feels or sounds abnormal about your knot cut it off and re tie or YOU WILL wish you had
Observation: I'm not a scientist, however, if the line is breaking and not either knot, then both knots are equally strong with 15 lb test. I believe the reason why you're getting different readings is due to very slightly, yet unequal pull speed during your tests. Don't get me wrong, it was an excellent test. Since neither knot is breaking, it's the actual strength of the line that is the weakest link in the equation; and therefore the line should break at nearly the identical weight with each knot, because you're using the same line. Right? To find out which knot is truly the strongest, you have to find at what lb test the knot breaks and not the line. As an example if the Double Uni Knot breaks (not the line) with 100 lb test, but the Palomar knot breaks with 110 lb test, then the Palomar knot is truly stronger. Make sense? Having said all that, I do appreciate your videos and the time and effort it takes to make them. Thank you!
Thank you for laying that out.... I was thinking the same. Most of these videos testing knot strength are achieving the line strength and not the knots. But, if the knots exceed the breaking strength of the line and they do not slip.... that is all I need to know. ;)
Instinctually, I think most, if not all, of these knots are designed to hold long after the line breaks regardless of the test line. An experiment I'd like to see would be with the knots in water (as water is a natural lubricant) as this would be more practical and would show which knot is really non-slip. Heck, I'd recommend wetting the knots with WD40 to see which would unravel first. I'm sure the classic clinch knot would fail almost right away.
Line variations play a part.
Variations in how you tie the knot also play a part. For example, not fully setting a knot before testing it often results in premature failure. The double-uni knot can deform the line if you're not careful, causing premature failure. Pulling too hard or too fast on a knot while setting it can overheat or overstress the line, causing premature failure. When you're setting a knot, variations in your technique can produce variations in knot strength. Some knots are more sensitive to this than others. When you're testing a knot, the amount of moisture remaining within the knot also impacts knot strength.
On a side note, most fishing lines in the U.S. have breaking strength higher than advertised. We see this clearly illustrated in this video, where a line rated for 15lbs breaking strength actually broke closer to 30lbs. If you want line that breaks at or below the actual rating, get something I.G.F.A. approved.
You did not test a Trilene knot, once through the eye is just a basic clinch knot
And test 5 times each knot.
Tie the double uni doubling the line so you have 3 tag ends to cut...you'll be amazed...not just double looping the eye..
I sure wish you had done that triple granny you mentioned. I know it wouldn't have been on top but im wondering if it would have been on the bottom. Maybe i should dig up my old scale and satisfy my curiosity. Thanks for posting this video brother
Can’t wait for your mono test. Hope you include the line diameter, can’t trust the manufacturers line weight rating.
Great job. Love the vid. Keep it going
Hey Nick I’d like to see how a Jimmy Houston knot stacks up to those two in a future video. I never used it but it looks cool. I think most of use a palomar knot because it’s easy and it works. Thanks for sharing
Considering the rod you can get more muscle in your line unless your rod is not flexing at all
If the spool the line comes on is rough it can put nicks in your brand new line. I never buy brands with a crappily made spool.
Have you done an actual break strength test of the line? Seems like getting an average of that would help in determining what the knot is doing? I've been thinking for awhile that the palomar knot would seem to expose less line to potential damage during the tightening?
You rarely see anyone do that on youtube tests. Then results could be adjusted instead of calling knots over 100% strength like a lot of them do.
I always use a over have knot with no problem
How did you tie your double uni knot
How about test the DOUBLE PITZEN KNOT ?
Did you ever do the strongest line test? I use CXX also. I’ve used it since it hit the market and it’ll be hard to beat. The only way to test lines fairly by brand is by comparing same diameter, not what the box rates it’s test strength. Some brands under rate a thicker line to make their brand look good. Sunline will be thinner than most brands because they are closer to the actual break rating. Gamma is probably the only line that can beat CXX but you’ll pay a lot more for it.
I like SD jam knot
How many wraps did you use for double uniknot
Not really surprising. Look at a block and tackle set-up. You get the mechanical advantage simply having the load divideded across multiple lines, so barring any crimps, abrasions, etc. from the act of tying, you would expect two wraps of a line would carry about twice as much. However, there is no way that a human can exactly duplicate the stresses and abrasions from one knot to the next of the same knot. Also, you have manufacturing variations in the line that can effect it.
Double San Diego knot
what's the diameter of CXX
Your 3rd polimar test you started the pull way lower..
Double trilene is best mono knot!
Your breaking the line. Not the knots.
You have no clue how to tie a trilene knot if you think thats a single line on the hookeye.
non-scientific test setup, anchoring, fastening...in lieu of jig hook, utilize hardened full-circle rings (same girth-diameter as jig hook eye)...inconsistent pressure loading...insufficient data collection...trilene questioned yet no response..
It was just a quick and dirty test. We may do another some day and have a better setup
The Trilene is not a single line knot. Ive been tying the Trilene for years along with the Palomar. Ive never seen a Trilene single wrap through the hook eye. The real Trilene knot is just shy of the Palomar in strength.
Right. The single wrap “Trilene” is really just a clinch knot.