Hey tavern saw your post from a while ago (and the arguments with it lol) and I really like this setup, alot of people who dont seem to understand crankcase pressure say that this is bad, but recently I did a research and understood more, when I installed my CC I went with the typical CC to TIP setup while it was ok at the time it showed its bad side at idle when oil started to push out of my turbo seal due to pressure not being evacuated fast enough (bouncing oil cap) theres just no way to get the pressure out on idle with that setup, so when I started to look for alternatives I saw your post and man the difference when you have 2 outlets for idle and on boost although I didnt use the fragile oem pcv and hockey puck I replaced them with industrial grade 1-way valves that open at 3-5 psi
Sounds like it helped. I’ve made a few of these systems for people. And every time works amazingly. I didn’t use the puck ether one way valves are superior.
The oil cap is not (suppose to suction to to valve cover) bouncing is the normal state. Vaccum in the valve cover i haven't seen in any properly running VW
Jesus Cortes this works by allowing manifold vacuum to evacuate the engine of positive pressure during sub atmospheric pressure inside the manifold. During boost or or wide open throttle the vacuum source is switched via a check valve system to the turbo inlet. You could also use a draft tube in the exhaust as a secondary vacuum source if you don’t want to use the turbo inlet. However the manifold is the best option for off throttle vacuum. The benefits to a sub atmospheric pressurized block are: Better lubrication Cleaner oil Faster throttle response More off idle power Less oil leaks Faster oil recovery
I broke the split y hose that comes off the head and the cap is bouncing and it feels like there's no compression. I haven't don't a compression test. But my oil smells like gas and it's the strongest in that split hose with the brass ring to line them up evenly, a hose from the SAI pump isn't connected to anything so I just put a little breather filter on it. It's running like crap, running rich and backfiring like crazy and the SAI pump is clicking on and off continuously. I need to do those deletes, I want to delete everything but I have no idea how your supposed to run the vacuum hoses that control the wastegate and basically everything. I can't find a shop to do it for me. Do you know where I can get a tutorial and the kit with everything I need? I checked and there's already a plate at the head next to the water spout I replaced, where the water temp sensor goes. Did you make a video of your engine cleanup/tuck and deletes. It looks awesome and clean, not just shiny clean but the hoses and manifold and battery, air filter, coils aren't covered by that ugly grand piano looking vacuum reservoir and look like they fit perfectly, better than the factory. That vacuum reservoir, I don't even know what it is for, honestly. I'm no mechanic, I can just take things off and install new parts, I don't understand the whole internal wastegate vacuum and egr/sai/pcv/evap systems. I need a VW 02 1.8T AWP Bentley manual and the DVD tutorials
Hello i know this is very old but i have a similar set up and have excessive blow by at idle. Im really hoping you can help me out. My CC is routed by the lower and upper port being linked into one connection, then the other running up to the PCV valve on the TIP. I do not have the suction jet integrated in and am wondering if that is the right method. Its hard for me to see how you have it set up
@@taverncustoms would you mind if i emailed you or texted you some photos so you can help me figure our what i need to change? I can pay you for your time and inconvenience! I just want my car to run right
Is the jet/vacuum pump necessary? I have a redundant offtake from the inlet manifold available which I could use as a vacuum source leading straight to the PCV valve T'd into the catch can outlet
Hey man, so I installed the catch can setup exactly like you instructed. Works great no vacuum leaks etc. Oil cap is sucked when the engine is working all good. One thing i notive is when i shut the car off, there is a hissing sound lasting 1 second coming from the oil dipstick tube. I guess thats excess vacuum being pushed out the crankcase when the engine is shut off. Is this normal? Should i be worried?
@@savvasalexandridis7792 air is not being “pushed out” vacuum is being pulled on the block so when the engine is turned off the vacuum is still in the block and the atmosphere pushes into the engine till it’s not under vacuum. Aka air is being pushed into the dipstick.
so wrong there is not supposed to be vacuum in the engine it will cause problems pulling debri through the engine seals as well as exhaust fumes through the valve seals and drying the valve stem lubrication also pulling fumes past the piston rings
It’s clear you don’t know what your talking about. Under throttle it will be under vacuum with or without the suction pump. This gives you proper pcv suction at idle.
The manifold provides a vacuum source when not in boost. Once the block pressure or manifold pressure is greater then the turbo intake vacuum the checkvalves switch the vacuum source to the turbo intake port. This is why this system requires check valves. Under boost the cap wouldn’t be under vacuum but should be venting into the turbo intake pipe.
@@taverncustoms I can't seem to make setup work. At idle I apply vaccum to valve cover but oil cap still bounces. The valve cover does not appear to hold vacuum.
Yes multiple. Look up how running block vacuum improves engines. The normal vent to atmosphere most CC use are a positive pressure system. Aka the block is always pressurized that’s what pushes the gasses out.
Yung Norse it’s not the easiest to explain, this system uses a dual source vacuum, the intake manifold and the turbo intake pipe. You need to position check valves (PCV-valves) so only they only flow out of the crank case. Once manifold pressure is greater then the inlet pipe the PCV-valves will switch and use the inlet pipe as your vacuum instead of the manifold. This effect should keep the block below atmospheric pressure and the improvements are awesome. Good luck.
meocats it’s function was replaced with an aftermarket blow off valve. It’s actually used to hold the Diverter valve closed during partial throttle more so then open when shifting.
@@powdere4donuts yes I’ve made several of these setups. This was the test setup. And I also sold the car years ago. Recently made one for a s6. It looks amazing
its called positive crank case ventilation because positive pressure is really bad for your engine, vented pressure is better, negative pressure (below atmospheric) is ideal.
@@taverncustoms No, its not. Its not designed to run with a vacuum in the crankcase for obvious reasons. You're placing more strain on piston rings causing more blowby as which is detrimental to the longevity of your engine. It also hurt performance as vacuum will hold the pistons down on compression stroke. Stop spreading lies bro.
Øistein74 thanks for your opinion. It’s wrong, but thanks for watching and commenting on my video. Please like and subscribe. If there is enuf interest I may do a video explaining how and why this is a superior system but for you it might be faster to just do research on crankcase vacuum systems and the benefits of those systems. This unfortunately does not provide a vacuum at all times but it’s vastly superior to the factory setup.
@Øistein74 instead of trying to argue your misguided belief, I urge you to try looking into the information first. Have a good one! And remember to subscribe and hit that like button!
I'm just sharing for people who are smart enough to understand this system if your confused or disagree then move on this video is not for you. Here is the how to and diagram on how to build this system: forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6077892-How-to-install-a-catch-can-the-correct-way=
Thanks for sharing your setup looks sweet. What are the dimensions of the hoses? I want to order the parts but I couldn't find any info in the thread you posted.
I don't think you have enough clamps bro, better keep it safe and buy out the whole store.
iPushGround Moto lol function over form. They didn't leak.
@@taverncustomswithout clamps that engine wouldn´t work, my Leon is proof of that :D
Hey tavern saw your post from a while ago (and the arguments with it lol) and I really like this setup, alot of people who dont seem to understand crankcase pressure say that this is bad, but recently I did a research and understood more, when I installed my CC I went with the typical CC to TIP setup while it was ok at the time it showed its bad side at idle when oil started to push out of my turbo seal due to pressure not being evacuated fast enough (bouncing oil cap) theres just no way to get the pressure out on idle with that setup, so when I started to look for alternatives I saw your post and man the difference when you have 2 outlets for idle and on boost although I didnt use the fragile oem pcv and hockey puck I replaced them with industrial grade 1-way valves that open at 3-5 psi
Sounds like it helped. I’ve made a few of these systems for people. And every time works amazingly. I didn’t use the puck ether one way valves are superior.
@@taverncustoms just kinda sucks that I have to revise the whole rats nest after clearing it up lol
Hi, the intake manifold and the cylinder head looks great.. is that a heat resistent paint or something special?
The oil cap is not (suppose to suction to to valve cover) bouncing is the normal state. Vaccum in the valve cover i haven't seen in any properly running VW
Matt Jaegle the factory system is flawed. A bouncing oil cap means your system has positive pressure in the crankcase.
Glad I came across this awhile back. It should have been this way from the factory.
ITs all good but why not use the oem set up?
Can you give a detailed explanation to this set up?
Jesus Cortes this works by allowing manifold vacuum to evacuate the engine of positive pressure during sub atmospheric pressure inside the manifold. During boost or or wide open throttle the vacuum source is switched via a check valve system to the turbo inlet. You could also use a draft tube in the exhaust as a secondary vacuum source if you don’t want to use the turbo inlet. However the manifold is the best option for off throttle vacuum.
The benefits to a sub atmospheric pressurized block are:
Better lubrication
Cleaner oil
Faster throttle response
More off idle power
Less oil leaks
Faster oil recovery
I broke the split y hose that comes off the head and the cap is bouncing and it feels like there's no compression. I haven't don't a compression test. But my oil smells like gas and it's the strongest in that split hose with the brass ring to line them up evenly, a hose from the SAI pump isn't connected to anything so I just put a little breather filter on it. It's running like crap, running rich and backfiring like crazy and the SAI pump is clicking on and off continuously. I need to do those deletes, I want to delete everything but I have no idea how your supposed to run the vacuum hoses that control the wastegate and basically everything. I can't find a shop to do it for me. Do you know where I can get a tutorial and the kit with everything I need? I checked and there's already a plate at the head next to the water spout I replaced, where the water temp sensor goes. Did you make a video of your engine cleanup/tuck and deletes. It looks awesome and clean, not just shiny clean but the hoses and manifold and battery, air filter, coils aren't covered by that ugly grand piano looking vacuum reservoir and look like they fit perfectly, better than the factory. That vacuum reservoir, I don't even know what it is for, honestly. I'm no mechanic, I can just take things off and install new parts, I don't understand the whole internal wastegate vacuum and egr/sai/pcv/evap systems. I need a VW 02 1.8T AWP Bentley manual and the DVD tutorials
FockYouMang did u do it. Old old post i knwo
Hello i know this is very old but i have a similar set up and have excessive blow by at idle. Im really hoping you can help me out.
My CC is routed by the lower and upper port being linked into one connection, then the other running up to the PCV valve on the TIP. I do not have the suction jet integrated in and am wondering if that is the right method. Its hard for me to see how you have it set up
Well sounds like you need the manifold pcv valve to pull vacuum at idle
@@taverncustoms well i have a pcv valve sitting on my TIP that is connected to the oil catch can
@@BotMechanic turbocharged systems require 2 pcv valves one for idle and one for under boost
@@taverncustoms would you mind if i emailed you or texted you some photos so you can help me figure our what i need to change? I can pay you for your time and inconvenience! I just want my car to run right
@@BotMechanic my Instagram is jamin_pnw
Is the jet/vacuum pump necessary? I have a redundant offtake from the inlet manifold available which I could use as a vacuum source leading straight to the PCV valve T'd into the catch can outlet
Hey man, so I installed the catch can setup exactly like you instructed. Works great no vacuum leaks etc. Oil cap is sucked when the engine is working all good. One thing i notive is when i shut the car off, there is a hissing sound lasting 1 second coming from the oil dipstick tube. I guess thats excess vacuum being pushed out the crankcase when the engine is shut off. Is this normal? Should i be worried?
Might wanna get a new dipstick. But shouldn’t be an issue.
@@taverncustoms is it normal though, air being pushed out the tube when the engine shuts off
@@savvasalexandridis7792 air is not being “pushed out” vacuum is being pulled on the block so when the engine is turned off the vacuum is still in the block and the atmosphere pushes into the engine till it’s not under vacuum. Aka air is being pushed into the dipstick.
@@taverncustoms so i shouldn't be worried?
so can i use the hockey puck instead of pcv (the little green one) on the TIP ?
@@game6184use only pcv / check valves for best performance.
@@game6184 I also added the diy diagram to the community chat here on FB
I'm sure McMaster Carr has all the proper size clamps you need driver.
Bro this was 4 years ago lol i build drift cars now
Hi there. Could u tell me how you hooked up the little suction pump
+jerstuube bit late but here is the forum post: forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6077892-How-to-install-a-catch-can-the-correct-way
Never seen so many clamps on one hose in my entire life :p and the wrong size 😅
Give yer nuts a tug bud
so wrong there is not supposed to be vacuum in the engine it will cause problems pulling debri through the engine seals as well as exhaust fumes through the valve seals and drying the valve stem lubrication also pulling fumes past the piston rings
It’s clear you don’t know what your talking about. Under throttle it will be under vacuum with or without the suction pump. This gives you proper pcv suction at idle.
How do you get vacuum on oil cap if valve cover doesn't hold any vacuum?
The manifold provides a vacuum source when not in boost. Once the block pressure or manifold pressure is greater then the turbo intake vacuum the checkvalves switch the vacuum source to the turbo intake port. This is why this system requires check valves. Under boost the cap wouldn’t be under vacuum but should be venting into the turbo intake pipe.
@@taverncustoms
I can't seem to make setup work. At idle I apply vaccum to valve cover but oil cap still bounces. The valve cover does not appear to hold vacuum.
@@Chris-gp2ku you must have it incorrectly setup.
@@taverncustoms if I attach a vacuum line to valve cover should oil cap have suction?
@@Chris-gp2ku you also need to supply vacuum to the block vent.
How would you run this on a big turbo 1.8t without a tip or maf? Would you just run a hose to atmosphere instead of the tip and all else the same?
Sam Valdez you should run a draft tube into the exhaust pipe (after turbo of course lol) a draft tube will provide a vacuum source at WOT.
Is there a downside to the other way of doing a cc?
Yes multiple. Look up how running block vacuum improves engines. The normal vent to atmosphere most CC use are a positive pressure system. Aka the block is always pressurized that’s what pushes the gasses out.
Hey bro I have a big turbo 1.8t and am having trouble setting up a non vented catch can. How do I route this to my turbo inlet pipe
Yung Norse it’s not the easiest to explain, this system uses a dual source vacuum, the intake manifold and the turbo intake pipe. You need to position check valves (PCV-valves) so only they only flow out of the crank case. Once manifold pressure is greater then the inlet pipe the PCV-valves will switch and use the inlet pipe as your vacuum instead of the manifold. This effect should keep the block below atmospheric pressure and the improvements are awesome. Good luck.
Can you tell me this layout?
Just look up dual catch cans for turbo cars. And try that.
what did you do with your n249?
meocats deleted
@@taverncustoms Isn't that a bad thing? n249 is supposed to reduce stress on the turbo when shifting gears
meocats it’s function was replaced with an aftermarket blow off valve. It’s actually used to hold the Diverter valve closed during partial throttle more so then open when shifting.
That's a lot of clamps... 😂
Like 4 years behind the last guy 😂
@@taverncustoms 😂 have you removed some yet?
@@powdere4donuts yes I’ve made several of these setups. This was the test setup. And I also sold the car years ago. Recently made one for a s6. It looks amazing
There should be no vacuum. It's named POSITIVE crankcase ventilation for a reason.
its called positive crank case ventilation because positive pressure is really bad for your engine, vented pressure is better, negative pressure (below atmospheric) is ideal.
@@taverncustoms No, its not. Its not designed to run with a vacuum in the crankcase for obvious reasons. You're placing more strain on piston rings causing more blowby as which is detrimental to the longevity of your engine. It also hurt performance as vacuum will hold the pistons down on compression stroke. Stop spreading lies bro.
Øistein74 thanks for your opinion. It’s wrong, but thanks for watching and commenting on my video. Please like and subscribe. If there is enuf interest I may do a video explaining how and why this is a superior system but for you it might be faster to just do research on crankcase vacuum systems and the benefits of those systems. This unfortunately does not provide a vacuum at all times but it’s vastly superior to the factory setup.
@@taverncustoms Stop spreading lies bro.
@Øistein74 instead of trying to argue your misguided belief, I urge you to try looking into the information first. Have a good one! And remember to subscribe and hit that like button!
I'm just sharing for people who are smart enough to understand this system if your confused or disagree then move on this video is not for you.
Here is the how to and diagram on how to build this system: forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6077892-How-to-install-a-catch-can-the-correct-way=
Thanks for sharing your setup looks sweet. What are the dimensions of the hoses? I want to order the parts but I couldn't find any info in the thread you posted.