I’ve gone down the rabbit hole about swing weight during the last two weeks. Your videos have been an essential part of that. Keep up the excellent work.
Best video on this subject I have ever seen. So happy to see and hear someone clearing up widely broadcast myths. I have always found that a heavier iron shaft provided me with much better results than lighter shafts. The heavier shaft helps me maintain a smooth tempo, and it is not so easily manipulated. Thanks for posting this!
Good info. I recently switched from steel 120g to graphite 90g in my irons. Arm and elbow was getting too sore from the steel shafts, that was my main consideration. I have been very pleased with the switch, and there has been zero performance impact, and my arm isn’t aching anymore. I like to fit by tinkering, buy a club off eBay or a used site and test it out for myself. Most would say the change I made was massive…but for myself, there was almost no adjustment. I think most folks quickly get used to whatever they are using.
For me personally, I went to lighter shafts to help when I have back problems (130 to 120 in irons and 68 to 58 in driver. The lighter shafts help me to be able to move the club decently when my back isn’t super healthy and also energy up when later in the round.
I have adjusted to 110 gram shafts on my TAKOMO Irons and finally clicking but would not go lighter and I’m 67 but ex Ball Player and can still move it.
Have a friend that went to 'Big Custom Fitters' that recently popped up everywhere. Got talked into light senior flex shafts in his way too expensive 'custom fitted' iron set. He hits the ball all over. Left left left... Right..back to left again. He's always always always asking me how I swing and what I use and this and that... Yet never uses that advice. Always gets talked into crap he doesn't need. I just shake my head. I use a set of USED Hogan PTx Pros with 120 gram extra stiff shafts. Why, because that's is what was in them when I bought them. They feel and hit great! I pick up his feather weight clubs and try to hit a ball and it goes all over the place. I can't control them one bit. Moral... Don't get talked into crap you don't need at these fancy places that hire used car salesmen. Listen to A.J. here. P.S. I'm 65 years old...
Club fitting is the new shark infested waters of the golfing world. Some undoubted good ones, but charlatans and used car dealers everywhere. I would suggest paying for one or two fittings, taking the data away and then building a set from eBay with necessary tweaks from a friendly club maker. You'll save fortune and have quite an interesting little journey.
@@MrDaglish77 Agreed. No doubt, the TXG (now Club Champion) channel creates misguided expectations in many viewers. If you go to a Club Champion, it’s overwhelmingly likely that you WON’T get a fitter with the incredible knowledge and intelligence of Ian Fraser. Instead, you’re most likely going to get one who is a salesman above all else.
First time someone has addressed this important issue! I actually have higher clubhead speeds using a Project X 5.5 115g rifle shaft vs. a KBS Tour Lite at 105g.
Tempo and transition will have a huge influence on what weight works best. The faster the transition the heavier weight usually suits the golfer, As always there are exceptions and no absolutes. Fitting is always key. Good video.
Hey AJ. Nice expose. I especially like your second point. I've not heard anyone else mention that particular effect before, but it makes a lot of sense. I recently fitted myself for my new shafts and did the light vs heavy swing speed comparison. As a senior golfer, I've lost speed and was looking for a way to recover some of it. But I got the same result as you - virtually no chs difference. I tried a 95g and 106g (R and S) and 120g from the same family/model and compared them to my current 130g shafts and a 120g one from the same family/model. With the 95g shaft I just couldn't find the centre of the club face, so it was eliminated quickly. Both 120g shafts didn't feel any different to 130g ones so I eventually settled on the 106g shafts. That 22g made a big difference. With the new shafts, I got rid of my tendency to get my hands stuck behind me, and lost my right-side bias. My timing and strike improved, although dispersion is roughly the same, just more left. I also saw a big change in how tired I was feeling by the closing holes. With the lighter shaft, I now feel I am swinging the same on the 18th as I was on the 3rd. With the old shafts, the last few holes started to feel like an effort and the swing suffered. Once I settled on the 106g I tried stiff (106.5g) and regular flex (103g). I liked the feel of the R but preferred the weight of the S so settled on soft-stepping a set of the S flex. What I gained is a lower effort swing with improved direction and consistency, and 2 strokes off my handicap. I didn't gain any speed or distance but hey, we can't have everything. Can we? Thanks for putting out such great content. I've learned a lot from you over the past years. Cheers.
I recently as an experiment went with a 15 gram lighter shaft in my new irons. I have come to the two following observations. 1. I have to consciously swing smoother and try not to race my downswing because I can definitely tell the shaft is lighter. 2. As pointed out in the video, my slight swing faults become more apparent which has literally FORCED be to concentrate more and possibly improved my actual golf game.
Coincidentally, I was fit for new irons and the fitter put me into a lighter shaft than my previous irons. I have had trouble hitting the new, lighter irons. After some experimentation at the range comparing the two sets of irons, I have come to the same conclusion as you (and the video). With the new set, I have to concentrate much more and my swing thought is keeping my hands in front of my chest as I rotate through my swing. I think that the lighter shafts also reveal my "slight swing faults" and my shot dispersion is not nearly as tight as when I use the heavier shafts. With the heavier shafts I am a 6 index. I fear that if I use the lighter shafted irons, my index may jump to 12.
Thing is lighter shafts will give you better distance and maybe a bit more compression for a while but they are too easy to manipulate so slowly but surely your swing will unravel . The good news is that going back to your old irons or shafts will put you back on track . So dont sell them on for a while ….
Similar BUT my lighter & less Stiff shaft became a double miss & lost 10-15 yards. Just upped to 120 & Stiff. Will try tomorrow but, my old irons,today & similar, we’re on target.
Great video again! I’m curious to see stepping in shafts and the differences. Stepped down v standard v stepped up I’d like to understand the peak height difference, dec angle and distance between each of them.
It's like in the gym, moving lighter weight around is sometimes more difficult as it is harder to control perfectly. In contrast, using heavier weight in many cases is easier as it forces your body to move a certain way which is many cases is more accurate. In conclusion, the heavier weight takes out all the inconsistency as the weight is your friend. Thank you for this golden nugget, I don't know why I went to buy 55g graphite shafts, and also don't know why the shop couldn't at least make me aware of the differences in the weight of the shafts. Now I find myself down this rabbit hole, however, your video has come to my rescue!
Great video thoroughly debunking a myth. I was certainly in that group that thought lighter was faster. So much so I was using my kitchen scale weighing clubs and shafts trying to match a driver shaft to a particular head thinking it was going to be faster. I was perplexed as to why it didn't perform as my hypothesis suggested. Now I have a better understanding
Interesting video. I'd be interested in adding the nuances of graphite vs. steel iron shafts in this analysis. As we "boomers" age and like me, are afflicted by arthritic hands and elbows, graphite is a necessary or tempting transition to make. Since many OEMs are primarily offering light (60-70 grams, max) weighted graphite shafts, many of us need to customize through a fitting. And as another poster mentioned, swing tempo is a crucial ingredient in this as well.
The biggest benefit of lighter weight shafts comes as you get on the backside especially on a hot day and start to tire. Yes, it's true that 30 to 50 grams won't make a difference for ten shots on a simulator. But they do make a difference over 18 holes. Why bother with a lighter weight driver shaft if there is no benefit? It's really about balance in my experience. What is the lightest weight shaft that you can control for a full round? I have too quick a temp for 80 gram iron shafts. I started reducing the shaft weight until I was still hitting the ball well after 100 range shots or 4 hours on the course and that came out to be about 100 to 105 grams in the irons and 75 to 90 grams in the woods.
i’ve currently got TM speed blade irons with an 85g shaft in, i’m currently looking at the t350 a TT amt red r300 shaft, im worried these will feel a lot stiffer than what i’m used to and might struggle, any information or help would be massively appreciated
Great stuff, as usual. However, I would respectfully disagree with your default to a heavier shaft when fitting…a fitting is done hitting a few shots (10, 20, maybe 30)….however, over the course of a round of golf, the weight of the shaft does have an effect on you…for someone a little older, or who has some physical limitations or ailments (most of us), a lighter shaft would be better off. I used 120g shafts for the longest time. In testing, I hit that shaft very similar to my current shaft over a 20 ball test. But, now 55 with both hips replaced, back issues, and shoulder surgery from a lifetime of ice hockey, I now find hitting a 105g shaft to suit me better over the course of 18 holes. I wound up testing this by buying the different shafts and using each for a range session of 75 balls (though I usually shoot in the low 80s so wouldn’t hit 75 shots with irons/woods when putts are considered…closer to 50 shots). Again, this is all premised on your initial position that if the two shafts give you similar results…with a younger golfer with no issues, I would then agree with you that heavier might be the better way to go….
I've played the X100 but not going to Nippon Pro 950GH which is 115g and saves 15 grams of swing weight from my body/back. The Nippong Pro 950GH is a very stable shaft and it fits me and l am just playing the S, not the X.
You might not have seen any change on Speed . But and there is always a butt involved . Which one did you feel better with and which one was more accurate ?
I'm looking for new irons. I have Taylormade SIM irons with a regular flex graphite 65g shaft. I 'feel' like graphite is better since I'm a mid speed swinger, around 100-105 driver. I'm not sure now after watching this. I guess a fitting for irons is in my future.
See what happens when you try a 65g vs 85g vs 105g. Pay attention to both the numbers and what yields the smallest dispersion, but also how the different weights feel when swinging.
So I instead went with the Brava shaft on my Stealth plus driver and added weight to the head. It worked out well. The swing weight didn’t hurt my club speed and it helped straighten out my tee shots. Finding more fairways and the ball gets out there further than I was hitting it without the extra weight. I watched your videos on those two topics except instead of using the lead tape I just added an additional sliding weight which I put into the draw position and left the original weight in the center position. I think those clubs had a tendency to fade originally and the newer models just added more weight to the club to help them stay straighter. So I came up with this solution and your videos helped me come to that conclusion. I am no club fitter and I may be all wrong but I know it’s working for me 😅 thanks for your help.👍
Is it possible to increase the weight of my driver shaft by putting lead tape on it for testing purposes, and if so, where on the shaft would it be correct to put it?
I recently added some lead tape to my driver after shortening the shaft by a full 2". The good news is I'm hitting it straighter than ever with only a ~20 yard loss of distance (285 carry to 265 carry), but I'm wondering if you have any tips on how to improve the durability of the lead tape, or possibly something to coat it in so I don't feel like I'm getting lead all over my hands every time I pull the driver out of the bag. Thanks.
I've been playing the same muscle back clubs for 25 years. However, as I age I have been re-shafting to lighter and lighter shafts. I have found that it's the "overall" weight of the club that has the biggest bearing. I used to play DGS300s, then X100s, then Project X 5.0s, then Nippon 950GB, and now well past my 60's, I have re-shafted with Zelos steel shafts that are actually lighter than most graphite shafts. The key to making this work? Consistent swing weight. Every set of shafts were brought to D1 with proper weight adjustments. That method has been working for me very well, I don't get tired as the round goes on, and they feel great. I hope this helps someone.
Having played DG S300/S400 growing up (way too heavy) discovered custom fitting in 2008 and have alway fallen into the 105g region and D3 swing weight for irons. Got fitted for Modus 120 soft stepped for some T20 wedges a few years ago and it was a stroke of genius from the fitter!
I went from 120 to a 105 but also dropped weight in the club head much better feel for me. If a club doesn’t feel good when you pick it up mentally it will affect your game in my opinion.
Love your videos. So informative and helpful. I’ve been looking to replace my iron shafts. But never knew how to determine what shaft to go with. And don’t have the money to pay someone to do it. Your videos are helping me choose and replace the shafts myself. Thank you!
Pitching and chipping is more accurate and “feel” is better with the heavy. Also light shafts need heavier head to maintain C or D range swingweight range.
If you're not swinging a lighter club faster, it's because you're not trying to swing it faster. My 7 iron with lightweight graphite shaft allows me to swing 102, where as the 130 gram steel shafted version restricts me to 96-97 mph. This is not an anomaly, it's consistent over days, weeks, and months
It can assuming the lighter shaft allows the golfer to increase the dynamic loft. But it doesn't always work that way so I wouldn't promise that result.
Can you do a video on driver shaft weight? And for purposes of having more videos, a separate one for woods shaft weights, wedges, other videos on misconceptions between the flexes of shafts relationship to weight and swing speed (i.e. everyone with 90mph swing speed must use stiff flex and certain shaft weight), and how these factors can affect the ball flight. Maybe even a live club fitting - video for each (driver/woods, irons, wedges, putter)
Can the same assumptions about shaft weight be applied to shaft flex? My swing speed with my irons is in the mid 80s and charts I’ve read tell me that I’m on the high end speed for a regular flex and the low end for a stiff.
Thanks for all your great free information. I’m 65 and getting back into golf after taking 2 decades off due to a back injury that basically made me afraid to play. As I’m getting back into the game it has changed significantly in terms of club heads, shafts, grips, etc., And I’m trying to figure all this out. I’ve learned a ton from your videos which I’m grateful for. The one thing I’m still really confused about is shaft torque. If you have already done a Video on this I apologize as I couldn’t locate it. If not, I would be grateful if you could explain how it affects the club face and swing. Oh, the other thing I had to lose in getting back into golf was my ego. I can no longer hit my 8 iron 150 which really sucks. That’s more like my 5 iron now. lol.
It's simple, don't worry about torque. The torque will match up based on the flex and weight of a shaft. If you have those right you can assume that the torque is in a good range for you.
Great content. Is there any reason why I would find more forgiving to hit with lighter shafts ? I was fitted to 95s I used to play with 65s. My swing speed definitely suggests heavier shafts but I just feel that I hit it a lot more solid and overall easier with the old lighter shafts I used to have. I know miss my dispersion is definitely higher , but I hit it so solid when I use the lighter shafts.
This is a general rule and by no means a one size fits all. Some people will hit more solidly with lighter shafts. The important thing is to try different weights and see what yields the best results.
Excellent video. Question - my friend (77 y/o) is convinced that switching from his regular flex PXG driver to a lighter senior flex will help his chronic slicing and add more distance. He has a good swing and used to be a single digit handicap. I'm telling him that if he solves his slice, his distance will increase.
Question what graphite shaft would you choose to replace a modus 120 s (soft stepped)? Love the profile and weight but need something similar in graphite due to tendinitis.
So as a tall golfer 6'4" with a wrist to floor of 36-36.5" and a driver Club speed about 105 on a good day 118 top. What would your gut feeling go with? I am a new golfer just using a cheap set of +1" regular flex and a used taylormade burner stiff regular length.
Thanks for posting this. I just picked up a set of clubs that have Oban Ct 125 shafts( I don’t know the flex) but I have found the heavier shaft for me helps with feeling where the club is for me.
It even more pronounced with driver shafts. Lighter shafts in drivers are disaster - heavier shafts are "smoothing" the swing and prevent rapid and uncontrollable transition from the backswing into the downswing. I have noticed that with lighter shafts it is much easier to cut across the line ending in a typical slice. A great vlog!
Today i test taylor Qi with stiff ventus blue i hit 145 carry , with regular 155 and with A ( senior ) 165…….I am still trying to understand !!!!! I am 8.5 index with swing with iron 7 around 78 mph. I appriciate some opinions.
The shaft is a timing devise. The results seem to show a softer feel is better for you. I would probably test them on another occasion and make sure to pay attention to the dispersion short and long with each option.
@@EFGMC thanks for the reply. Dispersion was great also. I will test the the clubs next week again taylor Qi with ve tus blue TR 5-a, soni can be sure it was not a one time feeling.
@@EFGMC I thought so. Gonna have to get a second opinion. I'm trying to buy a new set of irons but getting into this shaft rabbit hole. I play the Cobra Amp irons from 2011 and am so used to them but it's time for newer and better. I didn't trust the fitter so I decided to not pull the trigger on a purchase quite yet. Thank you!
On my irons have gone from regular steel 110g nippon mizuno mp20's hmb to graphite Mitsubishi MMT 70g Pxg's and i have never been happier with the weight and ease to get the ball in the air, specially from 150-210 yards out which are my 8,7,6,5 and 4 irons... Misses are still misses with both but my enjoyment of the game has changed for the better
I'm 68 and just started back after not playing for the last 5 years. I thought going to a lighter shaft would be best as I'm 60 lbs lighter and noticeably weaker so I thought 85 gram R flex shafts would work well. I couldn't have been more wrong. I am not using 110. Gram R flex shafts and actually getting back to my old distances which is 148 yd 8 iron and 160 yd 7 iron. I was having trouble hitting 145 yd 7 irons with the lighter shafts. I play TM R9 Tour issue carbon steel C heads which are a nice solid heavier head that I have had for about 12 years but looking at maybe getting some Takomo 101T heads or even 101's to try . I also have a like new set of Bridgestone J38 Dual Pocket cavity forged irons that play great. Both my sets are older but I have never seen that big a difference in good older irons and good newer irons unlike driver where the newer ones do make a difference. Still hitting a Titleist 910 D3 12* adjusted to 10.5 perfectly well. Have a Taylormade Areo Burner 10.5 but the length on it is 45.75 compared to my Titleist at 44.5". I was worriedl shorting the TM would make it too light. All your video are help as I do my own club work and have for about 24 years. Keep them coming !
I started p[aying golf in 1975, but 1978 weekly. amazing how the shaft of the driver now is the lightest and the head is most forgiving and least spinning, which is opposite of what I learned with playing 90 and 100 compression wound, balata Titleist balls. What happens when people play 55-65 gram shafts in their driver, but their irons are 85-120 grams?
There is one thing that hardly anyone pays attention to. Weight and shape of the player. A 100kg player is significantly more stable than a 65kg person. Roughly speaking, a 100kg player with a 100g shaft is proportionally the same as a 65kg player with a 65g shaft. You have to look at the ratio of the player's weight.
I have 5 rolls of lead tape on my putter! under grip, hosel, perimeter, center line front to back........but I have heard heavy shafts better for distance but lighter for more accuracy. I lost strength, but i was hitting my irons great, but lost distance. I really didn't gain going lighter, but still straight.....just not as tired after a round. Using 60-65 g shafts with my driver, but shafts 105 g with old irons, 85 with new irons. I just went back to heavy ones, but I want new clubs....thinking PXG and Takomo
I'm 68 and just started back after not playing for the last 5 years. I thought going to a lighter shaft would be best as I'm 60 lbs lighter and noticeably weaker so I thought 85 gram R flex shafts would work well. I couldn't have been more wrong. I am not using 110. Gram R flex shafts and actually getting back to my old distances which is 148 yd 8 iron and 160 yd 7 iron. I was having trouble hitting 145 yd 7 irons with the lighter shafts. I play TM R9 Tour issue carbon steel C heads which are a nice solid heavier head that I have had for about 12 years but looking at maybe getting some Takomo 101T heads or even 101's to try . I also have a like new set of Bridgestone J38 Dual Pocket cavity forged irons that play great. Both my sets are older but I have never seen that big a difference in good older irons and good newer irons unlike driver where the newer ones do make a difference. Still hitting a Titleist 910 D3 12* adjusted to 10.5 perfectly well. Have a Taylormade Areo Burner 10.5 but the length on it is 45.75 compared to my Titleist at 44.5". I was worriedl shorting the TM would make it too light. All your video are help as I do my own club work and have for about 24 years. Keep them coming !
Today i test taylor Qi with stiff ventus blue i hit 145 carry , with regular 155 and with A ( senior ) 165…….I am still trying to understand !!!!! I am 8.5 index with swing with iron 7 around 78 mph. I appriciate some opinions.
Nice channel, I play the Apex 2019 irons with the aerotech fc 90. My 7 iron club head speed is 70-75 these seam to be working, also trying to improve my golf any suggestions I might try. Cheers...
Would a 5'5" dude like me, at 60 years old, in any way warrant a lighter shaft? I'm at a -1" shaft length. Or, is this a reason to actually NOT go light and then go with a heavier shaft? I'm high handicap.
I did a blind test with my normal weight shaft (115grams) and a 105 gram shaft and then a 95 gram shaft. I hit the 95 gram shaft 10 yards farther carry with the 95 gram shaft. No problems with dispersion nor launch angle. With the 115 shaft my 7 iron swing speed was 78 mph and the 95 gram shaft was 82 mph. My swing style is not very handsy at all and maybe this is a factor.
You need to make sure the frequency is the same for each shaft with the different weights to do a True Comparison. If you choke up on a club to decrease the weight you are making the Frequency Stiffer. Everyone has a perfect frequency. Frequency is what helps to make your shot patterns tighter. As we age a lighter shaft might help with our energy levels in playing a round of golf. It has been proven that if you play with the frequency for your physiological makeup your shot patterns will be tighter. No promises of distance but direction is the key to better shots. Happy Golfing 😎
Shaft weight while swinging vs a golf ball of changing mass while putting are two different concepts in physics. What's missing in Adam's examples are often confused. The force required to swing each club (think about getting the club moving) at the various weights is much different. That extra force is what or why most golfers migrate to lighter shafts - it's generally age-related - so it allows the weaker player to maintain their clubhead speed. It's F = M x A, where objects with more mass (heavier shafts) require a larger force to accelerate or start moving. And that can be substantial when viewed over an entire round of golf. The putting example is about an object already in motion, similar to what happens in a car crash - heavy vehicle vs lighter vehicle - and heavy always wins. It's an example of Kinetic Energy (energy due to motion), or 1/2 x Mass x Velocity squared. The higher the mass, the higher the (KE) energy. This is also why a faster swing speed (club is already in motion) gives you a larger distance increase than a heavier club ... the velocity component is squared. Good examples, but the conclusions are a bit skewed.
What about people who require longer shafts? I'm 6'5" with short arms, and my shafts are +1.25. I find the longer, heavier shafts are are too cumbersome.
Hey ELITE FIT GOLF , I just watched your video and I must say that it was really informative and well-made. I was wondering if I could help you edit your videos and repurpose your long videos into highly engaging shorts? I can also make high CTR thumbnails for your channel
I took lessons and did a fitting at GOLFTEC. I’m 69 years old and my 7-iron swing speed was about 74 mph. My instructor advised changing my shafts from 95 gram steel to 65 gram graphite. I gained about 3-4 mph without any noticeable increase in dispersion. What was very noticeable is how my body felt after a round - there is much less fatigue with lighter weight graphite. So my results are contrary to what you report here.
I'm trying a 20 gram lighter shaft in a Maltby 7 iron. My old shaft is 117 grams and the new one I'm trying is around 97 grams. Both sterl shafts. I am 70 years old. Slower tempo.
In theory. Force = Mass x Accel Velocity or club head speed is meaningless. 9yr old Korean girls hit 230 drives because the club is going faster after impact than before. Most hack golfers' club heads reach max velocity before striking the ball and then as the ball goes forward the club head goes backwards or decels.
I did have the highest efficiency with the 130, ie faster ball speed. Actually second place in this test was the 80g but that could easily just be the sample size.
I think it really depends on the golfer prefer feel and body limitations. I prefer a lightweight shaft, I came to that conclusion when I went to my local 2nd swing store, grab a bunch of different used set with various shaft configuration and headed to the trackman bay. The set up with the heavier shaft didn't correspond well for me and I only swung a 7 iron in the low 70mph. On the other hand, the best feeling used set I was able to hit without putting stress on my body was a set of Mizuno Hot metal 923 HL with Senior ESX recoil 460 in the high 70's club head speed. These shafts are roughly 60g according to the manufacturer website, but didn't want to spend $7-900 on this set, so I got myself a set of Maltby TS3 (6-P) built with fujikura vista pro 50i shaft. for less than $500 new. With this set, I can swing my 7 iron around 76-78 mph according to my lunch monitor.
I think the misconception is from shaft weight vs club weight, they probably mean(or should say) you should play the lightest club weight you can control.
Great content as ever, AJ. Thanks. I recently finished reading Tom Wishon's The Search for the Perfect Golf Club (well worth a read for everyone out there) and he mentioned that a drop of 25g in shaft weight would only yield about at most a 1mph increase in swing speed. Your test backs that up.
This is a good vid and you make a lot of points I never thought of before. But I have one minor issue. You said you can tell that a shaft is too heavy if after several shots you get tired. I think if you get tired you lose club head speed over the round. If thats true and for me it is then how can you say that shaft weight has no effect on club-head speed? If your right about this then you might want to ask PING about the High Launch G430s who promise more speed for slower club-head speed swingers. The only difference between the HL model and the regular ones is the club is lighter.
Swinging your mid iron around 90mph will be better with more mass on the club so 120+ grams will help. For short hitters definitely recommend light shafts + go try them out. Each manufacturer has different kick points and one might just be light bulb moment
I have hit Reg shafts my entire life. Was given a set of stiff shafts last week. Holy cow! My ball flight is now lower and my 8i hits, hops, stops. Previously it would come in much steeper, fly higher, hop and roll a few feet. Am changing balls for even more spin.
One big thing. I had too heavy shafts eralier. Had a hard time controlling the low point in the arc. Also had the tendancy to hook it more, but due to lie angle
Adding lead tape weight to the shaft to make it heavier will only affect the feel and not stiffness and flight characteristics of a heavier shaft. A heavier shaft will be a stiffer shaft and be harder to square the club face if the player doesn’t have enough swing speed. All in all I think a lighter more flexible shaft is better for amateurs. I once tried to swing a friends forged blade 4 iron with a dynamic gold s300 130 gram shaft. It was like swinging a telephone pole. Lost 30 yards of distance and everything went right. Then I swung a 80 gram stiff graphite shaft. I had effortless power and much better distance and dispersion
50yo old 15hc here. I was fitted last year and was surprised to find that I hit heavier shafts and swing weights better. Distance, dispersion, consistency, feel we're all better. I ended up with Cobra King Tour pw-4i and RTX wedges with stiff D.G. S400 TI at swing weight D-7. Have played about 15-20 rounds so far, and I really like these new clubs.
Less than +/- 1 oz distributed over the length of a shaft just doesn't matter that much--as evidenced by swing speed. I agree go heavier when in doubt. It's other characteristics of the shaft that cause issues...they just happen to correlate with weight in a lot of shafts. Swing each shaft with no clubhead and you can feel how trivial the difference is-- from a weight perspective.
Your content is credible. Now get a 60 to 65 year old mid handicap and do the test see what happens. Better yet…do it in the same age bracket with a bad back. That would appeal to a lot of your viewers looking at our age to improve.
I’ve gone down the rabbit hole about swing weight during the last two weeks. Your videos have been an essential part of that. Keep up the excellent work.
I like heavier shafts because they slow down my tempo and help my swing stay in sync because I can get quick.
Exactly the same!!!!
I'm 60 and swing 130 g shafts. Tried lighter and lost feel of the clubhead and control of ball flight. Will swing heavy until I can't
Yep, feel is a big part of it for a lot of us. Regardless of what's actually happening it's what we feel is working best that often does work best.
Best video on this subject I have ever seen. So happy to see and hear someone clearing up widely broadcast myths. I have always found that a heavier iron shaft provided me with much better results than lighter shafts. The heavier shaft helps me maintain a smooth tempo, and it is not so easily manipulated. Thanks for posting this!
Good info. I recently switched from steel 120g to graphite 90g in my irons. Arm and elbow was getting too sore from the steel shafts, that was my main consideration. I have been very pleased with the switch, and there has been zero performance impact, and my arm isn’t aching anymore. I like to fit by tinkering, buy a club off eBay or a used site and test it out for myself. Most would say the change I made was massive…but for myself, there was almost no adjustment. I think most folks quickly get used to whatever they are using.
For me personally, I went to lighter shafts to help when I have back problems (130 to 120 in irons and 68 to 58 in driver. The lighter shafts help me to be able to move the club decently when my back isn’t super healthy and also energy up when later in the round.
120-130g is heavy
@@AngusBeef0to me 120g is light enough. Any lighter I start losing the club path and feels too light.
As I’m a little older I thought a lighter shaft would help. Bad dispersion and decreased distance. Back to my 120 gram shafts.
I have adjusted to 110 gram shafts on my TAKOMO Irons and finally clicking but would not go lighter and I’m 67 but ex Ball Player and can still move it.
@@darylhoskins5696kbs tour regular ?
Have a friend that went to 'Big Custom Fitters' that recently popped up everywhere. Got talked into light senior flex shafts in his way too expensive 'custom fitted' iron set.
He hits the ball all over. Left left left... Right..back to left again.
He's always always always asking me how I swing and what I use and this and that... Yet never uses that advice. Always gets talked into crap he doesn't need.
I just shake my head.
I use a set of USED Hogan PTx Pros with 120 gram extra stiff shafts. Why, because that's is what was in them when I bought them. They feel and hit great!
I pick up his feather weight clubs and try to hit a ball and it goes all over the place. I can't control them one bit.
Moral... Don't get talked into crap you don't need at these fancy places that hire used car salesmen. Listen to A.J. here.
P.S. I'm 65 years old...
Name the scoundrels. Club Champion?
@@JeremiahAlphonsus oh, that is highly probable...
Club fitting is the new shark infested waters of the golfing world. Some undoubted good ones, but charlatans and used car dealers everywhere. I would suggest paying for one or two fittings, taking the data away and then building a set from eBay with necessary tweaks from a friendly club maker. You'll save fortune and have quite an interesting little journey.
@@MrDaglish77 Agreed. No doubt, the TXG (now Club Champion) channel creates misguided expectations in many viewers. If you go to a Club Champion, it’s overwhelmingly likely that you WON’T get a fitter with the incredible knowledge and intelligence of Ian Fraser. Instead, you’re most likely going to get one who is a salesman above all else.
Did a fitting and they really put the pressure on me to pay almost 4K for 9 clubs. Nope.
✳️ I use NS850 reg ✳️ Rose Zhang a LPGA player is using the same shaft ✳️ very surprising..
First time someone has addressed this important issue! I actually have higher clubhead speeds using a Project X 5.5 115g rifle shaft vs. a KBS Tour Lite at 105g.
Tempo and transition will have a huge influence on what weight works best. The faster the transition the heavier weight usually suits the golfer, As always there are exceptions and no absolutes. Fitting is always key. Good video.
Hey AJ. Nice expose. I especially like your second point. I've not heard anyone else mention that particular effect before, but it makes a lot of sense.
I recently fitted myself for my new shafts and did the light vs heavy swing speed comparison. As a senior golfer, I've lost speed and was looking for a way to recover some of it. But I got the same result as you - virtually no chs difference. I tried a 95g and 106g (R and S) and 120g from the same family/model and compared them to my current 130g shafts and a 120g one from the same family/model. With the 95g shaft I just couldn't find the centre of the club face, so it was eliminated quickly. Both 120g shafts didn't feel any different to 130g ones so I eventually settled on the 106g shafts. That 22g made a big difference. With the new shafts, I got rid of my tendency to get my hands stuck behind me, and lost my right-side bias. My timing and strike improved, although dispersion is roughly the same, just more left. I also saw a big change in how tired I was feeling by the closing holes. With the lighter shaft, I now feel I am swinging the same on the 18th as I was on the 3rd. With the old shafts, the last few holes started to feel like an effort and the swing suffered. Once I settled on the 106g I tried stiff (106.5g) and regular flex (103g). I liked the feel of the R but preferred the weight of the S so settled on soft-stepping a set of the S flex. What I gained is a lower effort swing with improved direction and consistency, and 2 strokes off my handicap. I didn't gain any speed or distance but hey, we can't have everything. Can we?
Thanks for putting out such great content. I've learned a lot from you over the past years. Cheers.
I recently as an experiment went with a 15 gram lighter shaft in my new irons. I have come to the two following observations. 1. I have to consciously swing smoother and try not to race my downswing because I can definitely tell the shaft is lighter. 2. As pointed out in the video, my slight swing faults become more apparent which has literally FORCED be to concentrate more and possibly improved my actual golf game.
Coincidentally, I was fit for new irons and the fitter put me into a lighter shaft than my previous irons. I have had trouble hitting the new, lighter irons. After some experimentation at the range comparing the two sets of irons, I have come to the same conclusion as you (and the video). With the new set, I have to concentrate much more and my swing thought is keeping my hands in front of my chest as I rotate through my swing. I think that the lighter shafts also reveal my "slight swing faults" and my shot dispersion is not nearly as tight as when I use the heavier shafts. With the heavier shafts I am a 6 index. I fear that if I use the lighter shafted irons, my index may jump to 12.
Thing is lighter shafts will give you better distance and maybe a bit more compression for a while but they are too easy to manipulate so slowly but surely your swing will unravel . The good news is that going back to your old irons or shafts will put you back on track .
So dont sell them on for a while ….
Yeah I’m not sure which is better but sounds like lighter shafts can work as training aids but on course I want stable performance
Similar BUT my lighter & less Stiff shaft became a double miss & lost 10-15 yards. Just upped to 120 & Stiff. Will try tomorrow but, my old irons,today & similar, we’re on target.
@@CarnivoreDMD For mortals like us, it really is trial and error until we get it figured out.
Great video again! I’m curious to see stepping in shafts and the differences. Stepped down v standard v stepped up
I’d like to understand the peak height difference, dec angle and distance between each of them.
It's like in the gym, moving lighter weight around is sometimes more difficult as it is harder to control perfectly. In contrast, using heavier weight in many cases is easier as it forces your body to move a certain way which is many cases is more accurate. In conclusion, the heavier weight takes out all the inconsistency as the weight is your friend. Thank you for this golden nugget, I don't know why I went to buy 55g graphite shafts, and also don't know why the shop couldn't at least make me aware of the differences in the weight of the shafts. Now I find myself down this rabbit hole, however, your video has come to my rescue!
Curious why manufacturers are putting lighter graphite shafts in HL iron models like Mizuno and Dart shafts???
Great video thoroughly debunking a myth. I was certainly in that group that thought lighter was faster. So much so I was using my kitchen scale weighing clubs and shafts trying to match a driver shaft to a particular head thinking it was going to be faster. I was perplexed as to why it didn't perform as my hypothesis suggested. Now I have a better understanding
My guess is maybe the 105 will be the fastest. But the weight is more of a timing mechanism than speed, especially in irons
Interesting video. I'd be interested in adding the nuances of graphite vs. steel iron shafts in this analysis. As we "boomers" age and like me, are afflicted by arthritic hands and elbows, graphite is a necessary or tempting transition to make. Since many OEMs are primarily offering light (60-70 grams, max) weighted graphite shafts, many of us need to customize through a fitting. And as another poster mentioned, swing tempo is a crucial ingredient in this as well.
The biggest benefit of lighter weight shafts comes as you get on the backside especially on a hot day and start to tire. Yes, it's true that 30 to 50 grams won't make a difference for ten shots on a simulator. But they do make a difference over 18 holes. Why bother with a lighter weight driver shaft if there is no benefit? It's really about balance in my experience. What is the lightest weight shaft that you can control for a full round? I have too quick a temp for 80 gram iron shafts. I started reducing the shaft weight until I was still hitting the ball well after 100 range shots or 4 hours on the course and that came out to be about 100 to 105 grams in the irons and 75 to 90 grams in the woods.
The heavier shaft also does wonders to compensate for imperfections in the shaft.
i’ve currently got TM speed blade irons with an 85g shaft in, i’m currently looking at the t350 a TT amt red r300 shaft, im worried these will feel a lot stiffer than what i’m used to and might struggle, any information or help would be massively appreciated
What about when you change your grips from standard to +4 s. Heavier grips . This adds an extra dynamic to the equations. It's so so so confusing.
What about weight and correlation to increase and decreasing peak trajectory ? Again broad perspective..
Great stuff, as usual. However, I would respectfully disagree with your default to a heavier shaft when fitting…a fitting is done hitting a few shots (10, 20, maybe 30)….however, over the course of a round of golf, the weight of the shaft does have an effect on you…for someone a little older, or who has some physical limitations or ailments (most of us), a lighter shaft would be better off. I used 120g shafts for the longest time. In testing, I hit that shaft very similar to my current shaft over a 20 ball test. But, now 55 with both hips replaced, back issues, and shoulder surgery from a lifetime of ice hockey, I now find hitting a 105g shaft to suit me better over the course of 18 holes. I wound up testing this by buying the different shafts and using each for a range session of 75 balls (though I usually shoot in the low 80s so wouldn’t hit 75 shots with irons/woods when putts are considered…closer to 50 shots). Again, this is all premised on your initial position that if the two shafts give you similar results…with a younger golfer with no issues, I would then agree with you that heavier might be the better way to go….
I've played the X100 but not going to Nippon Pro 950GH which is 115g and saves 15 grams of swing weight from my body/back. The Nippong Pro 950GH is a very stable shaft and it fits me and l am just playing the S, not the X.
You might not have seen any change on Speed . But and there is always a butt involved . Which one did you feel better with and which one was more accurate ?
Hello, is it possible to have a fitting with you to find out what type of shaft AND iron I can use?
Rrgards
Yes, I am located in Atlanta, GA
Ratio or effects of heavier CLUB head vs SHAFT weight?
Dynamic Gold s200 is the perfect shaft for me.
I'm looking for new irons. I have Taylormade SIM irons with a regular flex graphite 65g shaft. I 'feel' like graphite is better since I'm a mid speed swinger, around 100-105 driver. I'm not sure now after watching this. I guess a fitting for irons is in my future.
See what happens when you try a 65g vs 85g vs 105g. Pay attention to both the numbers and what yields the smallest dispersion, but also how the different weights feel when swinging.
So I instead went with the Brava shaft on my Stealth plus driver and added weight to the head. It worked out well. The swing weight didn’t hurt my club speed and it helped straighten out my tee shots. Finding more fairways and the ball gets out there further than I was hitting it without the extra weight.
I watched your videos on those two topics except instead of using the lead tape I just added an additional sliding weight which I put into the draw position and left the original weight in the center position. I think those clubs had a tendency to fade originally and the newer models just added more weight to the club to help them stay straighter. So I came up with this solution and your videos helped me come to that conclusion. I am no club fitter and I may be all wrong but I know it’s working for me 😅 thanks for your help.👍
Is it possible to increase the weight of my driver shaft by putting lead tape on it for testing purposes, and if so, where on the shaft would it be correct to put it?
swing weight is more important than shaft weight in terms of rhythm and feel for the golfer
Maybe. Maybe not. To throw a blanket statement like that, over the issue is just simply incorrect in many cases. It really depends on the golfer.
I recently added some lead tape to my driver after shortening the shaft by a full 2". The good news is I'm hitting it straighter than ever with only a ~20 yard loss of distance (285 carry to 265 carry), but I'm wondering if you have any tips on how to improve the durability of the lead tape, or possibly something to coat it in so I don't feel like I'm getting lead all over my hands every time I pull the driver out of the bag. Thanks.
I put clear shipping tape over my lead tape
I've been playing the same muscle back clubs for 25 years. However, as I age I have been re-shafting to lighter and lighter shafts. I have found that it's the "overall" weight of the club that has the biggest bearing. I used to play DGS300s, then X100s, then Project X 5.0s, then Nippon 950GB, and now well past my 60's, I have re-shafted with Zelos steel shafts that are actually lighter than most graphite shafts. The key to making this work? Consistent swing weight. Every set of shafts were brought to D1 with proper weight adjustments. That method has been working for me very well, I don't get tired as the round goes on, and they feel great. I hope this helps someone.
Having played DG S300/S400 growing up (way too heavy) discovered custom fitting in 2008 and have alway fallen into the 105g region and D3 swing weight for irons. Got fitted for Modus 120 soft stepped for some T20 wedges a few years ago and it was a stroke of genius from the fitter!
Best description I have heard for the shaft in all is guises is Ian @TXG “the shaft is a timing device”!
I went from 120 to a 105 but also dropped weight in the club head much better feel for me. If a club doesn’t feel good when you pick it up mentally it will affect your game in my opinion.
Love your videos. So informative and helpful. I’ve been looking to replace my iron shafts. But never knew how to determine what shaft to go with. And don’t have the money to pay someone to do it. Your videos are helping me choose and replace the shafts myself. Thank you!
Pitching and chipping is more accurate and “feel” is better with the heavy. Also light shafts need heavier head to maintain C or D range swingweight range.
If you're not swinging a lighter club faster, it's because you're not trying to swing it faster. My 7 iron with lightweight graphite shaft allows me to swing 102, where as the 130 gram steel shafted version restricts me to 96-97 mph. This is not an anomaly, it's consistent over days, weeks, and months
Exception not the norm.
As always… super valuable Golf fitting content.
Thank You!
How do graphite shats influence a swing.
Can you address ball flight? My understanding is a lighter shaft can help increase peak height and land angle
It can assuming the lighter shaft allows the golfer to increase the dynamic loft. But it doesn't always work that way so I wouldn't promise that result.
Can you do a video on driver shaft weight?
And for purposes of having more videos, a separate one for woods shaft weights, wedges, other videos on misconceptions between the flexes of shafts relationship to weight and swing speed (i.e. everyone with 90mph swing speed must use stiff flex and certain shaft weight), and how these factors can affect the ball flight. Maybe even a live club fitting - video for each (driver/woods, irons, wedges, putter)
Can the same assumptions about shaft weight be applied to shaft flex? My swing speed with my irons is in the mid 80s and charts I’ve read tell me that I’m on the high end speed for a regular flex and the low end for a stiff.
I do this in another video. It comes down to feel and shot shape.
How do you determine shaft flex?
Thanks for all your great free information. I’m 65 and getting back into golf after taking 2 decades off due to a back injury that basically made me afraid to play. As I’m getting back into the game it has changed significantly in terms of club heads, shafts, grips, etc., And I’m trying to figure all this out. I’ve learned a ton from your videos which I’m grateful for. The one thing I’m still really confused about is shaft torque. If you have already done a Video on this I apologize as I couldn’t locate it. If not, I would be grateful if you could explain how it affects the club face and swing. Oh, the other thing I had to lose in getting back into golf was my ego. I can no longer hit my 8 iron 150 which really sucks. That’s more like my 5 iron now. lol.
It's simple, don't worry about torque. The torque will match up based on the flex and weight of a shaft. If you have those right you can assume that the torque is in a good range for you.
Great content. Is there any reason why I would find more forgiving to hit with lighter shafts ? I was fitted to 95s I used to play with 65s. My swing speed definitely suggests heavier shafts but I just feel that I hit it a lot more solid and overall easier with the old lighter shafts I used to have. I know miss my dispersion is definitely higher , but I hit it so solid when I use the lighter shafts.
This is a general rule and by no means a one size fits all. Some people will hit more solidly with lighter shafts. The important thing is to try different weights and see what yields the best results.
Excellent video. Question - my friend (77 y/o) is convinced that switching from his regular flex PXG driver to a lighter senior flex will help his chronic slicing and add more distance. He has a good swing and used to be a single digit handicap. I'm telling him that if he solves his slice, his distance will increase.
Less flex will definitely not help correct a slice.
Question what graphite shaft would you choose to replace a modus 120 s (soft stepped)? Love the profile and weight but need something similar in graphite due to tendinitis.
I like the Fujikura Axiom 105.
@@EFGMC thank you! Can’t really soft step them. Any view on Accra TZi 105 or Oban OI 108 TR?
@@Independent-Thought I stay away from those brands.
So as a tall golfer 6'4" with a wrist to floor of 36-36.5" and a driver Club speed about 105 on a good day 118 top. What would your gut feeling go with? I am a new golfer just using a cheap set of +1" regular flex and a used taylormade burner stiff regular length.
is the speed 105 or 118 because those are very very different.
@@EFGMC lets call it 100-105 averaged out. I am new to the sport so i am working on consistency
Thanks for posting this. I just picked up a set of clubs that have Oban Ct 125 shafts( I don’t know the flex) but I have found the heavier shaft for me helps with feeling where the club is for me.
It even more pronounced with driver shafts. Lighter shafts in drivers are disaster - heavier shafts are "smoothing" the swing and prevent rapid and uncontrollable transition from the backswing into the downswing. I have noticed that with lighter shafts it is much easier to cut across the line ending in a typical slice. A great vlog!
Today i test taylor Qi with stiff ventus blue i hit 145 carry , with regular 155 and with A ( senior ) 165…….I am still trying to understand !!!!! I am 8.5 index with swing with iron 7 around 78 mph. I appriciate some opinions.
The shaft is a timing devise. The results seem to show a softer feel is better for you. I would probably test them on another occasion and make sure to pay attention to the dispersion short and long with each option.
@@EFGMC thanks for the reply. Dispersion was great also. I will test the the clubs next week again taylor Qi with ve tus blue TR 5-a, soni can be sure it was not a one time feeling.
So I went and got fitted a our local PGA superstore and was told the True Temper DG mid 115 plays like the Project X LS 6.5, is that correct?
No, not from my experience. PX LS is very different feeling, not to mention different weight.
@@EFGMC I thought so. Gonna have to get a second opinion. I'm trying to buy a new set of irons but getting into this shaft rabbit hole. I play the Cobra Amp irons from 2011 and am so used to them but it's time for newer and better. I didn't trust the fitter so I decided to not pull the trigger on a purchase quite yet.
Thank you!
not sure if you have done a video on this subject. but why do most iron heads increase in weight thru the set by 7 to 8 grams?
To balance out the length change as you progress through the set.
On my irons have gone from regular steel 110g nippon mizuno mp20's hmb to graphite Mitsubishi MMT 70g Pxg's and i have never been happier with the weight and ease to get the ball in the air, specially from 150-210 yards out which are my 8,7,6,5 and 4 irons... Misses are still misses with both but my enjoyment of the game has changed for the better
I'm 68 and just started back after not playing for the last 5 years. I thought going to a lighter shaft would be best as I'm 60 lbs lighter and noticeably weaker so I thought 85 gram R flex shafts would work well. I couldn't have been more wrong. I am not using 110. Gram R flex shafts and actually getting back to my old distances which is 148 yd 8 iron and 160 yd 7 iron. I was having trouble hitting 145 yd 7 irons with the lighter shafts. I play TM R9 Tour issue carbon steel C heads which are a nice solid heavier head that I have had for about 12 years but looking at maybe getting some Takomo 101T heads or even 101's to try . I also have a like new set of Bridgestone J38 Dual Pocket cavity forged irons that play great. Both my sets are older but I have never seen that big a difference in good older irons and good newer irons unlike driver where the newer ones do make a difference. Still hitting a Titleist 910 D3 12* adjusted to 10.5 perfectly well. Have a Taylormade Areo Burner 10.5 but the length on it is 45.75 compared to my Titleist at 44.5". I was worriedl shorting the TM would make it too light. All your video are help as I do my own club work and have for about 24 years. Keep them coming !
I started p[aying golf in 1975, but 1978 weekly. amazing how the shaft of the driver now is the lightest and the head is most forgiving and least spinning, which is opposite of what I learned with playing 90 and 100 compression wound, balata Titleist balls. What happens when people play 55-65 gram shafts in their driver, but their irons are 85-120 grams?
There is one thing that hardly anyone pays attention to. Weight and shape of the player.
A 100kg player is significantly more stable than a 65kg person.
Roughly speaking, a 100kg player with a 100g shaft is proportionally the same as a 65kg player with a 65g shaft.
You have to look at the ratio of the player's weight.
I have 5 rolls of lead tape on my putter! under grip, hosel, perimeter, center line front to back........but I have heard heavy shafts better for distance but lighter for more accuracy. I lost strength, but i was hitting my irons great, but lost distance. I really didn't gain going lighter, but still straight.....just not as tired after a round. Using 60-65 g shafts with my driver, but shafts 105 g with old irons, 85 with new irons. I just went back to heavy ones, but I want new clubs....thinking PXG and Takomo
I'm 68 and just started back after not playing for the last 5 years. I thought going to a lighter shaft would be best as I'm 60 lbs lighter and noticeably weaker so I thought 85 gram R flex shafts would work well. I couldn't have been more wrong. I am not using 110. Gram R flex shafts and actually getting back to my old distances which is 148 yd 8 iron and 160 yd 7 iron. I was having trouble hitting 145 yd 7 irons with the lighter shafts. I play TM R9 Tour issue carbon steel C heads which are a nice solid heavier head that I have had for about 12 years but looking at maybe getting some Takomo 101T heads or even 101's to try . I also have a like new set of Bridgestone J38 Dual Pocket cavity forged irons that play great. Both my sets are older but I have never seen that big a difference in good older irons and good newer irons unlike driver where the newer ones do make a difference. Still hitting a Titleist 910 D3 12* adjusted to 10.5 perfectly well. Have a Taylormade Areo Burner 10.5 but the length on it is 45.75 compared to my Titleist at 44.5". I was worriedl shorting the TM would make it too light. All your video are help as I do my own club work and have for about 24 years. Keep them coming !
Today i test taylor Qi with stiff ventus blue i hit 145 carry , with regular 155 and with A ( senior ) 165…….I am still trying to understand !!!!! I am 8.5 index with swing with iron 7 around 78 mph. I appriciate some opinions.
Very interesting video. Absolutely agree. Light shafts are trap and a recipe for inconsistent shot making.
120 I always left the club face open. I was fitted for those and bought 105s off eBay and it changed everything
Nice channel, I play the Apex 2019 irons with the aerotech fc 90. My 7 iron club head speed is 70-75 these seam to be working, also trying to improve my golf any suggestions I might try. Cheers...
Would a 5'5" dude like me, at 60 years old, in any way warrant a lighter shaft? I'm at a -1" shaft length. Or, is this a reason to actually NOT go light and then go with a heavier shaft? I'm high handicap.
I did a blind test with my normal weight shaft (115grams) and a 105 gram shaft and then a 95 gram shaft. I hit the 95 gram shaft 10 yards farther carry with the 95 gram shaft. No problems with dispersion nor launch angle. With the 115 shaft my 7 iron swing speed was 78 mph and the 95 gram shaft was 82 mph. My swing style is not very handsy at all and maybe this is a factor.
You need to make sure the frequency is the same for each shaft with the different weights to do a True Comparison.
If you choke up on a club to decrease the weight you are making the Frequency Stiffer.
Everyone has a perfect frequency. Frequency is what helps to make your shot patterns tighter.
As we age a lighter shaft might help with our energy levels in playing a round of golf.
It has been proven that if you play with the frequency for your physiological makeup your shot patterns will be tighter. No promises of distance but direction is the key to better shots.
Happy Golfing 😎
Shaft weight while swinging vs a golf ball of changing mass while putting are two different concepts in physics. What's missing in Adam's examples are often confused. The force required to swing each club (think about getting the club moving) at the various weights is much different. That extra force is what or why most golfers migrate to lighter shafts - it's generally age-related - so it allows the weaker player to maintain their clubhead speed. It's F = M x A, where objects with more mass (heavier shafts) require a larger force to accelerate or start moving. And that can be substantial when viewed over an entire round of golf. The putting example is about an object already in motion, similar to what happens in a car crash - heavy vehicle vs lighter vehicle - and heavy always wins. It's an example of Kinetic Energy (energy due to motion), or 1/2 x Mass x Velocity squared. The higher the mass, the higher the (KE) energy. This is also why a faster swing speed (club is already in motion) gives you a larger distance increase than a heavier club ... the velocity component is squared. Good examples, but the conclusions are a bit skewed.
What about people who require longer shafts? I'm 6'5" with short arms, and my shafts are +1.25. I find the longer, heavier shafts are are too cumbersome.
Hey ELITE FIT GOLF , I just watched your video and I must say that it was really informative and well-made.
I was wondering if I could help you edit your videos and repurpose your long videos into highly engaging shorts? I can also make high CTR thumbnails for your channel
I took lessons and did a fitting at GOLFTEC. I’m 69 years old and my 7-iron swing speed was about 74 mph. My instructor advised changing my shafts from 95 gram steel to 65 gram graphite. I gained about 3-4 mph without any noticeable increase in dispersion. What was very noticeable is how my body felt after a round - there is much less fatigue with lighter weight graphite. So my results are contrary to what you report here.
How is a shaft weighed? Before cutting it?
Correct. Raw weight. Playing weight will always be lighter but that varies by the length.
I'm trying a 20 gram lighter shaft in a Maltby 7 iron. My old shaft is 117 grams and the new one I'm trying is around 97 grams. Both sterl shafts. I am 70 years old. Slower tempo.
Very educational. Although the swing speeds are the same, how about the ball speed? Shouldn't heavier club generate higher ball speed?
In theory. Force = Mass x Accel
Velocity or club head speed is meaningless. 9yr old Korean girls hit 230 drives because the club is going faster after impact than before. Most hack golfers' club heads reach max velocity before striking the ball and then as the ball goes forward the club head goes backwards or decels.
I did have the highest efficiency with the 130, ie faster ball speed. Actually second place in this test was the 80g but that could easily just be the sample size.
I think it really depends on the golfer prefer feel and body limitations. I prefer a lightweight shaft, I came to that conclusion when I went to my local 2nd swing store, grab a bunch of different used set with various shaft configuration and headed to the trackman bay. The set up with the heavier shaft didn't correspond well for me and I only swung a 7 iron in the low 70mph. On the other hand, the best feeling used set I was able to hit without putting stress on my body was a set of Mizuno Hot metal 923 HL with Senior ESX recoil 460 in the high 70's club head speed. These shafts are roughly 60g according to the manufacturer website, but didn't want to spend $7-900 on this set, so I got myself a set of Maltby TS3 (6-P) built with fujikura vista pro 50i shaft. for less than $500 new. With this set, I can swing my 7 iron around 76-78 mph according to my lunch monitor.
I think the misconception is from shaft weight vs club weight, they probably mean(or should say) you should play the lightest club weight you can control.
Great content as ever, AJ. Thanks. I recently finished reading Tom Wishon's The Search for the Perfect Golf Club (well worth a read for everyone out there) and he mentioned that a drop of 25g in shaft weight would only yield about at most a 1mph increase in swing speed. Your test backs that up.
I completely agree with your assessment...Thank you.
80g graphite shafts in my irons work’s perfect for my slow swing speed. Anything heavier feels like I’m swinging a sledgehammer.
This is a good vid and you make a lot of points I never thought of before. But I have one minor issue. You said you can tell that a shaft is too heavy if after several shots you get tired. I think if you get tired you lose club head speed over the round. If thats true and for me it is then how can you say that shaft weight has no effect on club-head speed? If your right about this then you might want to ask PING about the High Launch G430s who promise more speed for slower club-head speed swingers. The only difference between the HL model and the regular ones is the club is lighter.
That was worth watching. (again).
Swinging your mid iron around 90mph will be better with more mass on the club so 120+ grams will help.
For short hitters definitely recommend light shafts + go try them out. Each manufacturer has different kick points and one might just be light bulb moment
Went from 90 to 120
Hit great but get heavy after 4x a week.
Thought adding weight at the balance point would be better to keep similar SW.
Heavy is good.
I definitely have fallen into that "I need lighter shafts" but went back to 125g and have become much more consisent.
Informative and helpful video. The lead tape trick is something I may try. Thanks.
I have hit Reg shafts my entire life. Was given a set of stiff shafts last week. Holy cow! My ball flight is now lower and my 8i hits, hops, stops. Previously it would come in much steeper, fly higher, hop and roll a few feet. Am changing balls for even more spin.
One big thing. I had too heavy shafts eralier. Had a hard time controlling the low point in the arc.
Also had the tendancy to hook it more, but due to lie angle
My shafts are heavy. I like it that way. I’m a strong guy. I need to learn more about this.
After listening, I’m good.
Adding lead tape weight to the shaft to make it heavier will only affect the feel and not stiffness and flight characteristics of a heavier shaft. A heavier shaft will be a stiffer shaft and be harder to square the club face if the player doesn’t have enough swing speed. All in all I think a lighter more flexible shaft is better for amateurs. I once tried to swing a friends forged blade 4 iron with a dynamic gold s300 130 gram shaft. It was like swinging a telephone pole. Lost 30 yards of distance and everything went right. Then I swung a 80 gram stiff graphite shaft. I had effortless power and much better distance and dispersion
50yo old 15hc here. I was fitted last year and was surprised to find that I hit heavier shafts and swing weights better. Distance, dispersion, consistency, feel we're all better. I ended up with Cobra King Tour pw-4i and RTX wedges with stiff D.G. S400 TI at swing weight D-7. Have played about 15-20 rounds so far, and I really like these new clubs.
Less than +/- 1 oz distributed over the length of a shaft just doesn't matter that much--as evidenced by swing speed. I agree go heavier when in doubt. It's other characteristics of the shaft that cause issues...they just happen to correlate with weight in a lot of shafts. Swing each shaft with no clubhead and you can feel how trivial the difference is-- from a weight perspective.
Your content is credible. Now get a 60 to 65 year old mid handicap and do the test see what happens. Better yet…do it in the same age bracket with a bad back. That would appeal to a lot of your viewers looking at our age to improve.
Literally just handed in my Pitch and 7-iron to change to a 120 gram shaft from 100 grams to try out haha.
Totally agree. Tried to play KBS tour x 105 didn’t know where the club head was. Love the KBS Tour x 130. Feel is beautiful imo
One thing I do know is my golf bag with my 130g irons and all the lead tape on things weigh significantly more than my friends golf bag. 😂
Is the swing speed who guides the weight shaft?
It's a factor but not the only one. Type of swing, age, size, shot shape can also factor in.