I am supplying a variety of machines to a sewing skills centre in The Gambia, West Africa from the UK. They are mainly vintage but range from 1906 to 1980s ….. it is important that the students know how to use the variety. I am currently writing and laminating simple instructions for display. This is invaluable. Thank you!
Hey Randy! I figured out all my sewing problems! About four of them! Now I use ONLY original Kenmore bobbins and bobbin cases made in Japan! They never get snags. They don't make funny noises. The thread doesn't pop out of the case. The bobbins wind perfectly. All the rest went to the thrift shop. Worthless.
I encourage folks to pay the extra money and buy the quality parts and components. You have figured out why. The money that you save buying the cheap stuff has to be spent in turn, on the duct tape that you wrap around your head, to keep it from exploding out of frustration.😂👍😎
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 The bobbins and cases all look the same. People cannot tell what's good and what's not until they spend time sewing and still, they won't know. ONLY OEM are worth a crap and there are very little of them available on Ebay.
The other tip is to thread the needle into the side with the groove. Assuming you didn't go WAY out of your way to load the needle backwards. Not necessarily applicable to industrials with the round shank needle. Of you're sewing on an industrial, you'd better know how it works.
I would choose the 1515. They are equal in quality and durability. I would prefer having the low shank presser feet of the 1515, as opposed to the super high shank on the 1813. There’s a better selection of those feet available. I prefer the old style clutch release knob on the hand wheel of the 1515, that’s easier to service and bulletproof. The 1813 has the slide release, which is nice if your hand strength is an issue and tightening and loosening the clutch release is a challenge. I wouldn’t mind having either one, but the 1515 is my personal preference. You could get the 1813 and be ok. 👍🏼😎
I am supplying a variety of machines to a sewing skills centre in The Gambia, West Africa from the UK. They are mainly vintage but range from 1906 to 1980s ….. it is important that the students know how to use the variety. I am currently writing and laminating simple instructions for display. This is invaluable. Thank you!
Excellent. I’m honored to contribute to your project.
Thanks for watching. 😎👍🏼
Hey Randy! I figured out all my sewing problems! About four of them! Now I use ONLY original Kenmore bobbins and bobbin cases made in Japan! They never get snags. They don't make funny noises. The thread doesn't pop out of the case. The bobbins wind perfectly. All the rest went to the thrift shop. Worthless.
I encourage folks to pay the extra money and buy the quality parts and components. You have figured out why.
The money that you save buying the cheap stuff has to be spent in turn, on the duct tape that you wrap around your head, to keep it from exploding out of frustration.😂👍😎
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 The bobbins and cases all look the same. People cannot tell what's good and what's not until they spend time sewing and still, they won't know. ONLY OEM are worth a crap and there are very little of them available on Ebay.
This video is extremely useful. I look forward to all your videos. They give me information I didn’t even know I needed.
@@stormyrayn2104 😎👍🏼
Great video!
Thanks. I appreciate your comment and thanks for watching. 😎👍🏼
Thank you 🙏🏼
Greetings from Sweden 💐
@@karinbaird2499 you’re welcome and thanks for watching and commenting. 😎👍
I LOVE this. Thank you so much
I've collected a bunch of machines and this HELPS TREMENDOUSLY ❤❤❤
You’re welcome. I’m going to start a club called,”Awesome people who rescue sewing machines”. You can be a charter member.😎👍
Great video, Randy - very informative. I love watching your videos.
I appreciate your kind support. Thanks for watching. 😎👍🏼
The other tip is to thread the needle into the side with the groove. Assuming you didn't go WAY out of your way to load the needle backwards. Not necessarily applicable to industrials with the round shank needle. Of you're sewing on an industrial, you'd better know how it works.
That’s a great tip also. I’ve mentioned it a few hundred times in my videos, but it doesn’t hurt to re-emphasize its importance.
Thanks. 😎😎
I have an opportunity to get a 158.1515 or a 158.1813. Can't really get both. Which one would you go with?
I would choose the 1515.
They are equal in quality and durability.
I would prefer having the low shank presser feet of the 1515, as opposed to the super high shank on the 1813.
There’s a better selection of those feet available.
I prefer the old style clutch release knob on the hand wheel of the 1515, that’s easier to service and bulletproof.
The 1813 has the slide release, which is nice if your hand strength is an issue and tightening and loosening the clutch release is a challenge.
I wouldn’t mind having either one, but the 1515 is my personal preference.
You could get the 1813 and be ok. 👍🏼😎
Thanks!!
You’re welcome. 😎👍🏼
Thanks for that.
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching.😎👍
I’ve learned something today thank you again.
@@jimjackson4256 don’t thank me, thank the awesome folks in our company’s graphics department. Top notch individuals all.
😂😂😂
13:05 about 3 years too late, but thanks.
Ok.
Thanks!!!
You’re welcome. 😎👍🏼