@@kwrightway They are macined as a set with the head - not with the cams. That means, You can't move them around, because You will disturb the line boring.
Not sure of im too late to this video to get a response, but I'm curious as to which timing mark you used when positioning the cams. Did you use the 1-4 T or the 2-3 T mark on the timing advancer?
I always recommend the purchase of a good service manual before attempting involved work on a project. This can save a lot of frustration. In any event, from the section of installing the cams, here's a direct quote from the Kawasaki service manual: "...with the crankshaft positioned so #1 and #4 pistons are at TDC, the timing marks on the exhaust and inlet camshaft sprockets are aligned with the cylinder head surface."
On my kz 650 repair manual, says 46 but your right 36 is the number thats so you tell the the chain tensioner is pushing the right amount and not two tight or lose
I'm not sure what you mean by "set up the cams"? This video talks in some detail about how to position the cams when installing the chain and somewhere in this video series, I believe I speak to positioning the crankshaft in relation to the cams. Note I didn't watch this entire video and it's been 3 1/2 years since I shot this series so I don't recall all the details. I work on a lot of different equipment and shoot different video over time. If you're referring to shimming the cams, I know that's addressed somewhere in this video sequence.
kwrightway sorry for the misunderstanding. Basically set up the correct position of the timing chain and valves. One more question. Did you buy the soda blaster? If so can you share which did you buy or have? Thanks. Awesome tutorials.
i made a comment on your other video. boy i wish i could know where your advancer timing mark was when u had set the cam chain... my is just behing the T mark. i guess it should be right on the T...?
I just recently bead blasted the engine parts, but now I'm having difficulty when I torque the cams due to all the built up crud in the thread holes. I've been trying to get it out for weeks now. Did you face this problem? Any ideas?
This is a super old comment but I'll respond to it for anyone in the future. What I always do on torque-sensitive components like this is I will go pick up a bolt with the same thread pitch and cut a groove in the threads right down the middle. It's like a DIY thread chaser.
The timing chain is endless and doesn't have a position per se. In other words, it doesn't make a difference where the chain is positioned on the crank as it's not keyed to a specific locaton. As long as the chain is seated on the lower sprocket, you'll be fine.
yes but the crankshaft must be in a certine postition in relation to the timing of the cams so that the valves open at the right time in relation to the crank
Your question is not about the chain position then. The initial relationship position determination is done before removing the cams. The following cam-removal procedure begins the discussion on preparing to remove the cams is a direct quote from the Kawasaki service manual. I had to check to be sure regarding the specifies as it's been a while and I work on a lot of different equipment: "...set the 1,4 pistons at TDC by aligning the timing advance "T" mark on the 1,4 side (the line adjoining the "T") with the timing mark. As I recall, there are marks on the end of the cams that are to be used for positioning also, but again, it's been a while since I was inside this engine.
Why are you installing the camshafts without the lifters?? I started to install following your video and the camshaft wouldn't seat....I scratched my head until I watched the video again and realize that you don't have the lifters and shims in......why is that?
This series of videos was shot starting well over a year ago and were created while the actual work progressed for over more than six months. Therefore, most of them were posted well after the original material was recorded. I did state at one time that the videos were not necessarily in precise order, though I did attempt to keep them in reasonable sequence. There was a segment that demonstrated installing the buckets that was separate from the cam installation as I felt the cams required a more detailed discussion. I apologize for any confusion or extra work this may have created for you.
kwrightway No worries, I'm really appreciate your videos, this just threw me for a loop. In a vehicle its very clear how to set the cam to crank timing. Appears there should be a good fit, neither lots of slack or significant tightness in the links except between the two cams where there is slack and a precise number of links between cam arrow positions all while the tensioner is either not installed or no force acting on the tensioner mechanism... I be doing this tomorrow.
Are the bearing caps reeeeeeeally "machined as a set with the cams"?
I'm no expert on Kawasaki manufacturing processes, but that's my understanding.
@@kwrightway They are macined as a set with the head - not with the cams. That means, You can't move them around, because You will disturb the line boring.
Not sure of im too late to this video to get a response, but I'm curious as to which timing mark you used when positioning the cams. Did you use the 1-4 T or the 2-3 T mark on the timing advancer?
Well I read a little further into the comments and found my answer 😅
I always recommend the purchase of a good service manual before attempting involved work on a project. This can save a lot of frustration.
In any event, from the section of installing the cams, here's a direct quote from the Kawasaki service manual: "...with the crankshaft positioned so #1 and #4 pistons are at TDC, the timing marks on the exhaust and inlet camshaft sprockets are aligned with the cylinder head surface."
On my kz 650 repair manual, says 46 but your right 36 is the number thats so you tell the the chain tensioner is pushing the right amount and not two tight or lose
Awesome video. But not sure how to set up the cams. Thanks
I'm not sure what you mean by "set up the cams"? This video talks in some detail about how to position the cams when installing the chain and somewhere in this video series, I believe I speak to positioning the crankshaft in relation to the cams. Note I didn't watch this entire video and it's been 3 1/2 years since I shot this series so I don't recall all the details. I work on a lot of different equipment and shoot different video over time.
If you're referring to shimming the cams, I know that's addressed somewhere in this video sequence.
kwrightway sorry for the misunderstanding. Basically set up the correct position of the timing chain and valves. One more question. Did you buy the soda blaster? If so can you share which did you buy or have? Thanks. Awesome tutorials.
i made a comment on your other video. boy i wish i could know where your advancer timing mark was when u had set the cam chain... my is just behing the T mark. i guess it should be right on the T...?
The best!!!!!.
Thank you...
What position do the pistons need to be in when I put the cam shafts in the right positions? Thanks.
Bring pistons #1 & 4 to top-dead-center (TDC).
I just recently bead blasted the engine parts, but now I'm having difficulty when I torque the cams due to all the built up crud in the thread holes. I've been trying to get it out for weeks now. Did you face this problem? Any ideas?
This is a super old comment but I'll respond to it for anyone in the future. What I always do on torque-sensitive components like this is I will go pick up a bolt with the same thread pitch and cut a groove in the threads right down the middle. It's like a DIY thread chaser.
Is it just me or is there no buckets and shims over those valves while he's putting the cams in???
Rest assured, the buckets and shims were installed.
how do you know if your timing chain is in the right position on the crank shaft?
The timing chain is endless and doesn't have a position per se. In other words, it doesn't make a difference where the chain is positioned on the crank as it's not keyed to a specific locaton. As long as the chain is seated on the lower sprocket, you'll be fine.
yes but the crankshaft must be in a certine postition in relation to the timing of the cams so that the valves open at the right time in relation to the crank
Your question is not about the chain position then. The initial relationship position determination is done before removing the cams. The following cam-removal procedure begins the discussion on preparing to remove the cams is a direct quote from the Kawasaki service manual. I had to check to be sure regarding the specifies as it's been a while and I work on a lot of different equipment:
"...set the 1,4 pistons at TDC by aligning the timing advance "T" mark on the 1,4 side (the line adjoining the "T") with the timing mark.
As I recall, there are marks on the end of the cams that are to be used for positioning also, but again, it's been a while since I was inside this engine.
Why are you installing the camshafts without the lifters??
I started to install following your video and the camshaft wouldn't seat....I scratched my head until I watched the video again and realize that you don't have the lifters and shims in......why is that?
This series of videos was shot starting well over a year ago and were created while the actual work progressed for over more than six months. Therefore, most of them were posted well after the original material was recorded. I did state at one time that the videos were not necessarily in precise order, though I did attempt to keep them in reasonable sequence.
There was a segment that demonstrated installing the buckets that was separate from the cam installation as I felt the cams required a more detailed discussion.
I apologize for any confusion or extra work this may have created for you.
kwrightway No worries, I'm really appreciate your videos, this just threw me for a loop.
In a vehicle its very clear how to set the cam to crank timing.
Appears there should be a good fit, neither lots of slack or significant tightness in the links except between the two cams where there is slack and a precise number of links between cam arrow positions all while the tensioner is either not installed or no force acting on the tensioner mechanism...
I be doing this tomorrow.