Great instructions. I just did my rear passenger side. It seems every X166 is failing on that side. I didn’t raise the car ahead of time but did pull the fuse. However as I was trying to remove the 10mm fitting, the compressor kick on and fill it with air making it a super tight fit and I’ve it tilted at an angle. Certainly made things a bit more tight. Just a FYI for others who may attempt this as well.
Hey Brian, do you have a video changing out the front shocks in your wife’s car? My wife has the exact same 2013 GL550 and I’m trying to find the correct part number so that I know I’m ordering the right parts and I would love to see it done once before I try it myself! There’s not much content out there on this model so I appreciate what you’re doing. Love the videos, they’re all very informative!
Hi there - thanks for the comment. Funny you mention this - our front struts just went out too. Well, they were working fine... but they would lose air overnight, which means they're due to be replaced. I did the job myself on Saturday and it took a while. I ordered Arnott part numbers AS-3409 (left) and AS-3408 (right). These are the Arnott engineered ones for cars with ADS (option code 214 - adaptive damping system) which your GL should have too. I got from autozone.com for $1500 after shipping/tax and they were shipped overnight. I did buy new axle nuts for each side - those were $10 each.
For doing the job, I followed this video by @MasterTechLou th-cam.com/video/R1jN7cP-4lA/w-d-xo.html Hardest part for me was removing/reinstalling the part (not a lot of clearance). I pushed the upper control arm UP and lower control arm DOWN until the part fit. Second hardest part was putting bolt through bottom of the strut (the one that goes through the lower control arm). Since I'm not using a lift, I used a bottle jack under the lower control arm to line up the fork of the lower strut with the holes in the control arm bushing. Once it lines up, you can put the carriage bolt through and hammer in with a rubber mallet. You can use a pry bar to move the sway bar out of the way if needed.
Clarification at 2:37 - I mention you need to put the supply line into the fitting. The "white thing with a cross in it" is a PLUG that you need to pull out. I didn't pull it out until it was time to connect the lines to ensure nothing went in on accident. After you pull the plug, you can push the supply line into the fitting (which is where you push hard). After you push it in good, you can tug on it a bit to make sure it's in securely
It really is a great car. If you will work on it like this, it's also very affordable to own. If you will take it to the dealer for everything, thenit's as expensive as you think a mercedes would be. Thank you for the video, my spring blew the heck out right in my face lol, so I figured it's probably time to change it.
You're very welcome! I would make more videos for this car, but it's pretty reliable 😂 There have been a few small things I didn't bother making a video for which I probably should have - replacing the 3rd row seat motor, replacing the trunk latch actuator, replacing the rear seat vents (had some broken blades) and a few others. Only a small handful of issues though
@@bsclifton the first two would be very useful to many I'm sure. I opened the driver door panel because the soft close wasn't working there. I was going to replace the expensive part but though why not try again once I disconnected the door moduleand It worked! I was happier than a kid getting his first bike. That's a piece of info I'd like to spread. Everyone changes the actuator when it happens. I got the springs done today, thanks again, man.
@@bsclifton 8moths ago, still working without issue. I think because of the gl issues with disconnecting batteries, every time or almost every time someone changes the door actuator for soft close issue it's this. Because you won't be removing the door panel just to unplug replug.
Hi and thanks! 🙂 With the broken parts, it was a slow leak - usually I'd notice it in the morning time. It would rise back up when the car is on though, so still drivable. Definitely it was taking a while (a few hours) to lower. Now that's replaced, it will still lower... but over the period of a few days (ex: come home after a week long trip; dropped a few inches). But it doesn't get as low as it was getting when the parts were bad.
@@bscliftonthx.. Hmmm. I think I may also replace the solenoid valve block as my car stays up then only after a few days it goes down. Both wheels exactly same lowering height. These things are so weird at times drives me nuts... Thx again
Brian, hey one more question.. When you lifted the rear and removed the air lines, did your front go down at all? I know they are all separate lines but wanted to just ask if you saw the fronts go down at all.. About to do the work in a week or so.
Hi, Did you have a tough time pulling the 40 amp fuse? When I tried mine the transparent piece came off and the orange plastic feel brittle. Can you please explain how you took off your fuse? Thanks.
Hey there! It wasn't too hard to remove... But I did have trouble taking it out with my hands. I had to use a set of pliers to pull it and it came out without issue. Maybe get another one before you pull just in case it breaks. Good luck! 🙂
@brutherb I think you're talking about the part at 4:08, right? You can physically pull the air spring down (may take a good yank) and it should break free from the white clip. Then, you can twist the clip off. I believe it's just threaded - so turn it counter clockwise until it falls off 🙂
First, I would check the fuse for the AIRMATIC compressor. It's possible that went out. If the leak is bad enough and it's putting the compressor under strain for too long it'll eventually burn out the compressor motor. Or the compressor could be bad simply from age. Arnott offers a replacement part for this too. That would be my guess
After having a few cars with AIRMATIC, I'm really happy with it. It's a fairly easy system and overall not too hard to work with. I replaced the valve block and compressor over the weekend and it was a piece of cake. Super comfortable ride - way better than conventional springs IMO.
Great instructions. I just did my rear passenger side. It seems every X166 is failing on that side.
I didn’t raise the car ahead of time but did pull the fuse. However as I was trying to remove the 10mm fitting, the compressor kick on and fill it with air making it a super tight fit and I’ve it tilted at an angle. Certainly made things a bit more tight.
Just a FYI for others who may attempt this as well.
FINALLY. someone that knows how a Voss “push - pull” fitting works. OUTSTANDING 😂😂
Hey Brian, do you have a video changing out the front shocks in your wife’s car? My wife has the exact same 2013 GL550 and I’m trying to find the correct part number so that I know I’m ordering the right parts and I would love to see it done once before I try it myself! There’s not much content out there on this model so I appreciate what you’re doing. Love the videos, they’re all very informative!
Hi there - thanks for the comment. Funny you mention this - our front struts just went out too. Well, they were working fine... but they would lose air overnight, which means they're due to be replaced. I did the job myself on Saturday and it took a while. I ordered Arnott part numbers AS-3409 (left) and AS-3408 (right). These are the Arnott engineered ones for cars with ADS (option code 214 - adaptive damping system) which your GL should have too. I got from autozone.com for $1500 after shipping/tax and they were shipped overnight. I did buy new axle nuts for each side - those were $10 each.
For doing the job, I followed this video by @MasterTechLou th-cam.com/video/R1jN7cP-4lA/w-d-xo.html
Hardest part for me was removing/reinstalling the part (not a lot of clearance). I pushed the upper control arm UP and lower control arm DOWN until the part fit. Second hardest part was putting bolt through bottom of the strut (the one that goes through the lower control arm). Since I'm not using a lift, I used a bottle jack under the lower control arm to line up the fork of the lower strut with the holes in the control arm bushing. Once it lines up, you can put the carriage bolt through and hammer in with a rubber mallet. You can use a pry bar to move the sway bar out of the way if needed.
Clarification at 2:37 - I mention you need to put the supply line into the fitting. The "white thing with a cross in it" is a PLUG that you need to pull out. I didn't pull it out until it was time to connect the lines to ensure nothing went in on accident. After you pull the plug, you can push the supply line into the fitting (which is where you push hard). After you push it in good, you can tug on it a bit to make sure it's in securely
It really is a great car. If you will work on it like this, it's also very affordable to own. If you will take it to the dealer for everything, thenit's as expensive as you think a mercedes would be.
Thank you for the video, my spring blew the heck out right in my face lol, so I figured it's probably time to change it.
You're very welcome! I would make more videos for this car, but it's pretty reliable 😂 There have been a few small things I didn't bother making a video for which I probably should have - replacing the 3rd row seat motor, replacing the trunk latch actuator, replacing the rear seat vents (had some broken blades) and a few others. Only a small handful of issues though
@@bsclifton the first two would be very useful to many I'm sure. I opened the driver door panel because the soft close wasn't working there. I was going to replace the expensive part but though why not try again once I disconnected the door moduleand It worked! I was happier than a kid getting his first bike. That's a piece of info I'd like to spread. Everyone changes the actuator when it happens.
I got the springs done today, thanks again, man.
@@abadran8174 oh wow - so did you just disconnect the module and then reconnect it? (and then it worked)?
@@bsclifton 8moths ago, still working without issue. I think because of the gl issues with disconnecting batteries, every time or almost every time someone changes the door actuator for soft close issue it's this. Because you won't be removing the door panel just to unplug replug.
Thanks for the video. Great looking X166!
Great video 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Great video and thanks.. Just if I may ask... Did your car lower over time when parked for a bit or did it drop all at once?
Hi and thanks! 🙂 With the broken parts, it was a slow leak - usually I'd notice it in the morning time. It would rise back up when the car is on though, so still drivable. Definitely it was taking a while (a few hours) to lower. Now that's replaced, it will still lower... but over the period of a few days (ex: come home after a week long trip; dropped a few inches). But it doesn't get as low as it was getting when the parts were bad.
@@bscliftonthx.. Hmmm. I think I may also replace the solenoid valve block as my car stays up then only after a few days it goes down. Both wheels exactly same lowering height. These things are so weird at times drives me nuts... Thx again
Brian, hey one more question.. When you lifted the rear and removed the air lines, did your front go down at all? I know they are all separate lines but wanted to just ask if you saw the fronts go down at all.. About to do the work in a week or so.
Not that I remember- I did pull the fuse so that the compressor wouldn't run. I'm sure the fronts did go down a bit
Hi, Did you have a tough time pulling the 40 amp fuse? When I tried mine the transparent piece came off and the orange plastic feel brittle. Can you please explain how you took off your fuse? Thanks.
Hey there! It wasn't too hard to remove... But I did have trouble taking it out with my hands. I had to use a set of pliers to pull it and it came out without issue. Maybe get another one before you pull just in case it breaks. Good luck! 🙂
Same here , was wondering is it needed to remove the fuse or what is the purpose of removing if the car is off
This is the same on a gls63...
does the center clip that holds the air shock in place does just pop off or do you need to do something fancy to get it off
@brutherb I think you're talking about the part at 4:08, right? You can physically pull the air spring down (may take a good yank) and it should break free from the white clip. Then, you can twist the clip off. I believe it's just threaded - so turn it counter clockwise until it falls off 🙂
I have the same vehicle same year I put new New air shock in the rear one and one in the front but my vehicle is not raising ?
First, I would check the fuse for the AIRMATIC compressor. It's possible that went out. If the leak is bad enough and it's putting the compressor under strain for too long it'll eventually burn out the compressor motor. Or the compressor could be bad simply from age. Arnott offers a replacement part for this too. That would be my guess
How long would you say it took to air back up to ride height?
Not too long- maybe at most a minute or so. It was pretty quick and then it's been holding perfect since that replacement 🙂
I would like to know about the arnott part after trying it ?
Hi there! The part is working great 🙂 The GL has been used for a ton of in-town driving and a few road trips and it's riding nice. No issues to report
Use Regular Springs...wont need to worry about sagging ever
After having a few cars with AIRMATIC, I'm really happy with it. It's a fairly easy system and overall not too hard to work with. I replaced the valve block and compressor over the weekend and it was a piece of cake. Super comfortable ride - way better than conventional springs IMO.
Are you located in texas?
No, I'm in the Phoenix Arizona area
@bsclifton I'm having the same issue with my 2013 gl550 I wanted to see if you might be close I'm looking for someone to fix it