OBS Ford F-Series 92-97 Fuel Pumps & Filter Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- OBS Ford F-Series 92-97 Fuel Pumps & Filter Replacement. FINALLY taking a moment to replace the tired fuel pumps on our F150 FRONK. This will walk you through the process we used to swap these out and the fuel filter. This was a really rewarding project that doubled the fuel range on the truck!
Ford fuel line tool: amzn.to/3mrMhq4
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Sir you just saved me a headache and I appreciate you greatly every video iv watched people are grinding the carriage bolts out. But you sir defied the odds buy yourself a steak tonight you deserve it.
Lots of PB blaster and a little patience go a long way! Thank you for the kind words
Good to know 2 people can lift it !
A 3rd is helpful, but it can be done!
Dude! Thanks for this video. I’m currently working on my 91 f250. Gotta replace both fuel pumps. And I have 3 59 chevys. We got a lot in common lol😂
Thats great! Good luck with your projects
Excellent video guys Well spoken well explained very intelligent thank you so much I have a 1994 F250 4 x 4 same problem so really appreciate you taking the time to put the video up !Kyle Burney Mountain Grove Missouri
Our pleasure!
About to tackle the same project. Thanks for the video.
Good luck! Its not too bad!
This video is one of the best to show all the components, and swapping-in new fuel pumps. Be aware that a fuel delivery problem can also be the fuel pump relay in the fuse-box, or the fuel selector switch on the dashboard, or the fuel selector valve just a foot behind the fuel filter.
Thanks for the extra information
I need to do this on my ‘95 F150, dual tanks. Some owner along the line put in a drop in bed liner. I am HOPING (1) the floor of the bed isn’t rusted and (2) the 6 torx bolts are still intact. Wouldn’t removing the 6 nuts on your carriage bolts be easier with a CAREFULLY applied impact wrench be easier than muscling them off with a breaker bar? The hammering of the impact wrench breaks the rust loose fairly easily. I live in MA and deal with rusted hardware all the time. I use PB Blaster a lot, even with the impact. Good video, BTW.
The only risk with the impact is stripping out the part of the bed where the carriage bolt seats. Given your region that may be your best option though. Good luck!
@@LowTechGarage hopefully, the T20 torx bolts are still there. Thanks.
What are your thoughts on unbolting the bed as you did but just tilting it up on the fuel tank side, instead of lifting it completely off? I am doing this work by myself so I am looking for ways to simplify. 🙂
You could probably tilt it up. But honestly if you remove the tailgate and have one helper it’s easy to lift off and makes the work really easy.
That's a good idea for one guy by himself. Take off the left-side bots, and loosen the right-side bolts, then prop it up like the lid on a grand piano.
I’m about to buy a 1992 f150 with this issue in the front tank. Thanks for the vidya
You're welcome, these are great trucks! They last a lifetime with basic maintenance!
Very good informative video thank you! However, I found the music to be quite annoying and much louder than when you spoke so I continually had to play with the volume
Thank you for the feedback. We have since got a lapel mic to solve that issue.
Know it's been a while ago, but do you remember if the blue line is the one that actually takes the gas from the tank and send it to the engine? I can't literally find this anywhere online and I have been looking for two hours lol. None of the stupid sending units have the pipes marked as which is sand in return
The larger of the two pipes is the fuel supply line.
Next video needs to show how to install a jacuzzi into the truck bed!
I like where this is going
Good thing this truck has the helper springs and upgraded shocks already!
Excellent video thanks you very much it’s help a lot and be safe
Thank you!!!!
Thanks for the video, I think my rear fuel pump is bad so I may be doing this pretty soon
You can do it!
Do you know what size the tanks are for the longbed I have the same truck and about to do both pumps but I notice they are multiple different size options. Just bought the truck recently.
Rear tank is 18 gallons front tank is 19 gallons on the long bed f150.
Good info on this, nice video!
Thanks, I hope it was informative. This can be a daunting job.
Only 2 guys lifted the truck bed!? How many white claws did it take to power up for that?!?
I am sorry ma'am we cannot disclose trade secrets!
Very helpful. Thanks
You’re welcome!
Good video
Any noticeable change in the performance?
Did you check before and after fuel pressures?
Most notable change for us was a functioning rear tank. Previously the rear tank was in-operable.
Thanks for the video. how do you know when you chould change these? mine seem to be working fine currently but debating if I should just change them because I dont know if they have ever been changed
I would not bother changing until you run into issues. Most likely one will stop first. That’s the time.
@LowTechGarage makes sense, stupid question but when it stops you'll just not be able to go ? Like you'll know there is gas but you'll not be able to accelerate?
Just want to get an idea of the symptoms.
Great, great video. I have a 94 F250 diesel and I need to do the exact same thing you just did. Where did you say you got that special tool?
what do I ask for at the parts store?
This is what I bought: amzn.to/3mrMhq4
We have a video on the hutch mod and harpooning the tank for the diesel as well. We did it on our NBS but the process is the same on the OBS.
Why did you replace the pumps and filters? Was it running rough?
One tank was not working. The pump was bad.
Safty glasses 🤓!
Safety 1st!
I can't crack the nuts, the bolts turn with them. Any advice on how to keep them still so I can break them loose?
We soaked with pb blaster then managed to get vice grips on the bed bolts in the bed to stop them rotating.
We have read in some cases you have to cut the bolts. Hopefully you don’t have to! Good luck!
Having an issues where my rear tank is sucking the gas from the front tank and now it wont start only crank, Do you think it would be the fuels pumps?
That seems strange that it would be sucking from the front tank. Each tank has its own stand alone pump.
If it’s not the pump probably the change over valve for the tanks.
@@LowTechGarage Thank you!
Are both pumps the same? Or different for each tank?
Both the same!
when changing just the pumps in the assemblies do they both use the same pump?
Yes. Same pump
@@LowTechGarage thanks, i thought so, idiots online don't know what they are selling.....
Ok I have a question I have 2 little clips that came with mine I have no clue what they are for could someone help me bc from what I can see there is no use for them
Can you describe what the clips look like?
Did you do anything with a fuel tank selector valve???
Our selector valve was still functioning correctly so we did not have to address anything with it.
Are the rear and front fuel pumps interchangeable or are they different ?
These pumps share the same part number.
@@LowTechGarage awesome! Thanks for the reply
You didn't have to. Change the whole fuel pump assembly?
The only piece that isn’t replaced is the fuel sender.
Wtf it had no check valve huh? Maybe it was somewhere else in line not on pump
Don't tell me you have to remove the whole entire bed to change the rear fuel pump. I have a 91 ford f350 5.8 crew cab and I don't think the pump is working right.
That is the way. It’s really not too bad. 6 bolts and unplug the tail light harness
@@LowTechGarage that's the only way. I can't just take the straps off?
Can you not just drop the tank? I have a 1995 ford and the rear tank doesn’t work. When I flip the switch the gage goes all the way up and the truck sputters and shuts off
You have to remove the bed to access the pumps. It sounds like you have the exact same issue we had. Bad pump for that tank.
@@LowTechGarage ok cool thank you I didn’t want to remove bed but it doesn’t seem so bad seeing your video and thankfully this is a southern truck and I haven’t seen one rusted bolt so I’ll cross my fingers lol. Thank you for your reply and thank you for the video!!
Do u have a link to fuel pumps?
This is what I got for the rear tank.
amzn.to/43D52Gl
What is the tool called that was ten dollars at the auto store
Here you go :)
amzn.to/3M0A6Zj
What about the check valve?
We did not replace that or the switch over valve as it was functioning fine on our truck
Dang. My truck bed has a spray in liner. Guess I'll be dropping the tank after all. Great video though.
We tried dropping the tank but that doesnt work with the way the fuel lines connect. You can probably still undo these from underneath without issue.
Do you need to remove the bed? Cant your just drop the tank
sadly the only way to do this is pull the bed. Its not too bad but requires a couple of people to lift the bed off.
@@LowTechGarage i guess nobody told me that, I did both of mine with the bed on. It was just a pain getting the lines off.
Yeah, the secret is to not get 2 wimpy dudes to help lift the bed...Two 200lb+ dudes couldn't even lift their side, while I'm easily lifted my side....I thought they was gonna drop it and damage the bed...
Thats the truth!
How the hell am I going to do this on my rv
I would check your RV and see if it has a service panel inside. Often under the rear bed they have them. Good Luck!
just cut a hole in the stupid bed, since FORD couldn't bring themselves to make the alleged "Quick" disconnects accessible.
Yea only quick disconnect when you remove the bed LOL