I'm glad I found your videos! I found an orphan F150 5.0 XLT that needs love and money. I am doing brakes suspension, complete exhaust, and unf*cking lots of poorly done repairs. I paid $700 and will have $2500 in parts before I am done. Ever seen a control arn held into the rear bracket with a swingset chain?😂
Just found your channel with its great content! These are the best trucks ever built in my opinion as I own 2. I have a 94 long bed 4x4 with 204,000 miles that I have owned since 07. Extremely reliable and never any major issues with factor motor and transmission. 2 days ago I purchased a 93 long bed 2 wheel drive with only 80k miles in mint condition. I would own 50 of these if I could and would much rather drive a ninth gen over anything new! Keep up the great content brother!!
Thank you very much for watching! Yeah these old 9th gens hold a special place in my heart and I’ll own at least one until the day I die, if I could I would also fill a property with as many as I could get my hands on lol! Unfortunately being born in the early 2000’s I wasn’t able to see these new but I grew up in the passenger seat of my old man’s 7.3! So naturally I’ve owned 4 of them so far! I daily drive the 94 in the video
I bought an '92 F150 5 liter automatic 4x4 shortly after we bought an acreage back in '08. It showed about 270 thousand Kilometers, and well used, but the price was really good. The only thing it really needed was a good set of tires, which cost more than I paid for the truck. The reasons for wanting the truck was that the property had a lot of stuff on it that I wanted to get rid off, and I needed something to haul domestic water with from the nearest town on gravel and dirt roads that were not always in the best shape. The truck looked pretty rough, lots of dents and rust, but it seemed to run and drive well, and I figured that if it would last me through the winter, I'd get a new one in the spring. I've have since then also acquired an 8 ft. snow blade, and installed a hidden hitch for a gooseneck trailer that has a 4500 litre water tank on it. Well, that truck now has 350 thousand KM on it, and it still purrs along. It's been very reliable, and I've only had to have it towed home once, when I washed the engine compartment at the car wash in town, and quit on me on the way home. (Water in the distributor. Not the easiest to get at without tools.) I've replaced the water pump, front wheel bearings, windshield wiper motor, radiator and steering box. I don't baby it, but I'm very particular about looking after it. Regardless of mileage, I change the oil every spring and fall. I never have to add oil in between. As with my other vehicles, I keep a very close watch on any noises, coolant or tranny fluids, etc. I'm tempted to put an Energizer bunny decal on it, because it just keeps on going, but I don't want to push my luck. Other than the way it looks, it's one of the best vehicles I've ever owned, and it's paid for itself many times over. Thanks for the videos! Always nice to learn more. Never know when it'll come in handy.
And thank you for watching! Yeah those old Fords have a special place in my heart and I’ll probably have at least one in my driveway until the day I die! Sadly I was too young to see these things brand new but I grew up in the passenger seat of one! Extremely reliable and well made trucks, and when things do go wrong they are easy to work on, parts are cheap and plentiful!
I appreciate it man. My transmission has been acting weird and come to think of it.. my 3rd brake light has a bulb that is out haha. I’m going to replace that and hopefully it fixes it.
Yeah it’s a pretty weird one but it can be really awesome if that turns out to be the issue, make sure you replace it with a factory style bulb. Using an LED can mess up the resistance causing the same problems as a dead bulb
I run 5 W 20 in my 1999 F 350 7.3 & my 1996 F 150 4.9 5 speed for years, The oils I use are Shaffers 5 W 20 999. High but worth every cent. Nether pickup ever had a problem, Nether ever needs oil added, I put mobile 5 W 20 in my F 350 7.3 on this last change and it runs even smoother without the noise the 7.3 makes, But the point I’m trying to make here is the new full synthetic oils are great for these old engine’s. Thanks for your video
Ive seen some fellers run the crank case vent to the intake tube on the air pump to push the oil vapor into the exhaust and not make a disaster of the intake system .
Do you get involved and live streams/ community talk at all on of these trucks. I own 2 of them 87 and 97 both f250s the 97 351 is still eec-iv and 87 a 460 carb. the 97s being 8600 gvw didnt have to conform to the odb2 so you got legacy speed density. Can concur with the dead 3rd brake light issue made my e4od do wierd things which I like the transmission behind the 351 at least. my 460 has a t18. good quick overview on the common annoyances on these trucks.
I do comment a lot on OBS Facebook forums but besides that and this channel I haven’t done any live streams or anything like that. And what I wouldn’t give for my F150 to be OBD2 lol Ford OBD1 was a nightmare
Also : for the 96 model year under 8500 GVWR the car had an MAF and changed from EEC-IV to EEC -V. This also meant change drom ODB1 to ODB2. And this mesnt, that the car had no longer the Air Pump, not TAB and TAD Sensor, but 2 Cats, 3 O2 sensors and a separate EGR Valve Solenoid next to the Spark Coil.
You do not understand air injection reaction very well sir. It is still found in vehicles today, but it's an electric blower, instead of being belt driven. The fuel pump has no check valve, thats why Ford put the inline valves in, (I did hundreds of them at the dealership in the 90's), and a K&N will let dirt and oil contaminate the MAF hotwire, cause low power, drivability issues, it can cause low line pressure and kill the trans early, again, I've seen it, dozens, and dozens of times. The PSOM module allows you to change the speedometet settings for tire size, gear ratio, and depends on the VSS ring in the rear diff for this signal, it too can cause trouble with automatic shift scheduling, as well as third brake light issues will make the AODE/4R70W act up as well.
Mr.james I have a few questions since you worked on them in the 90s I have a 1995 f150 300 4.9l and the break and abs light stays on and the speedo goes crazy. I replaced the speed sensor but it's still acting up.
@@BrockPerry-fs2ds That system is almost 30 years old, #1, make sure the ABS tone ring is true, and does not wobble, #2, make sure there is no rust, dirt or debris that is keeping the sensor from being close to the tone wheel, #3 make sure the connectors are clean and have no green corrosion, #4 the ABS / RABS module busses the RWS sensor data to the PSOM, check to make sure it is not swollen, and leaking green stuff, that is the death of modules. Good luck, touch base again if that does not do it.
Starting in 92 the fuel pump assembly’s were responsible for returning fuel back to the right tank there was no longer a selector under the frame rail, when they go bad fuel can return to the wrong tank, Ford did a recall on this and added inline check valves on trucks with this issue so you didn’t have to replace the entire fuel pump, That’s all I was stating. Also all I said about air pumps is they are pointless emissions garbage that robs power. And K&N filters do fine if they are properly oiled and not dry, obviously they will let in more contaminates than a stock filter but so do all cone style air filters. And I also have an entire video on reprogramming PSOMs for bigger tires
Hey I just found your channel and it’s got a lot of good info. I have a question, what purpose does the air dam do on my 94 f150? I have a 97 F250 and it doesn’t have one.
Thanks man. We just bought a 96 for my son, who's 15, and likes older model trucks. Any advice, other than fluid changes on what he should do, as a new-to-him owner?
That’s awesome man! My first truck at 14 was a 91 F150, And as far as advice goes I’d double check it has the cruise control recall harness with the blue sticker at the brake master if he has cruise control, those can be a fire hazard if they haven’t been replaced. Aside from that maybe a new transmission filter if it’s an automatic and keep it well maintained!
I Might be wrong, but it looks like there is no third break light bulb. I was going to replace with a LED assembly I bought just haven't put in yet. would you advice against it? Also, I had a long wire going from the engine bay right side with a connecter that said 3rd break light, there was a fork with the wire that was ran along the frame all the way to the driver brake light area, The only weird thing is it wasnt connected to anything, it looked like the previous owner(s) had a tap and another wire connected that wasn't connected anywhere. I honestly couldn't figure out where it went so just coiled it back up and put neatly in the engine bay for now. great video!
Hmm yeah there should be a wiring harness with three bulbs behind the third brake light lens, Two cab lights and the centre break light, If it’s missing I would strongly recommend fixing that because it can really mess with an automatic, also I’d strongly advise against using an LED kit as it can give you the same problems as a dead bulb, the transmission computer reads the actual resistance of the bulb which is different for a LED
@@JunkAutoWerks thanks! I really found this out when the bulb in the cluster died that essentially signals the alternator to run. I had a dead battery and changed to a new alt with no change. Found out it was just a $.99 bulb that burnt out. For the life of me I couldnt figure it out.
I have a quick question. Just got a 93 5.0 extended cab short bed. Wanted to change out my shocks for some Bilstein 5100's but the only option is for a 4 or 6 inch lift. Are there any other models/years that are interchangeable with the OBS where I could get a normal 5100 length?
I actually remember seeing a question exactly like this on an OBS Facebook forum, Im pretty sure they do make a different for a factory OBS but it’s not called a 5100, The 5100 is specifically for lifted trucks. Try the model 24-184809
Wassup man! Love the videos, I want your opinion on my trucks situation ( 1993 F150 XLT 5.8L 2WD 88,000 miles ) I get inconsistent turn over times with my truck. I have replaced my front fuel pump, and I have replaced the starter and it did not resolve the issue. Just wondering if you know anything else I could replace to get a crisp consistent start up
Good info. After replacing the front tank on my 95 F150 Ford 4.9 I went to do the rear tank after pulling the tank off I thought I would check the voltage coming to the push connector and it was 7.5 V I’m afraid to put the rear tank in because I don’t have 12 V there. I went up front to the dashboard I have a new switch I checked the female side and I only had 7 V there. I check the inertia switch and the resistor and the fuse I have no idea what’s going on do you?
If you delete then what I did was to buy 2 bolts, use crush washers and put them in the back of the heads where the tubes from the pump go. I had to cut the bolts down some as they were too long.
I now where a red and silver v 8 needs engine but told transmission good, XLT no rust, sold some parts but inside was like new condition red, short bed, 700.00 in Oklahoma, No title said owner died, would need a 42 to get titled, lots of these around
i have a 96 f250 4x4 long bed ext cab xlt . i have a re curing problem with fuel lines that feed the rails that go under the intake . its a 5.8 gas . you have to take the top part of the intake off to access them. i have had it fixed twice by professional garages , about 5 years apart. is there a permanent fix for this and is this a common problem?
I have same truck, not had this issue yet but did have to replace the shrader valve on the fuel line that was leaking. It was easy $10 fix , just unscrew and screw on the new one. Only issue I have had with fuel line so far.
I just bought a 95 f150 and not sure what's wrong with it. When I shift to reverse it "jumps" I guess you can say that as well as when it goes for 1st gear to second and from second to third.. is an automatic v6
V6? Are you sure it isn’t the 300 i6? And as far as the jump goes sometimes these transmissions like to slam into gear, but I’d check your ATF level and colour and maybe take it to a transmission shop
There were quite a few upgrades to these transmissions. I had mine rebuilt by a reputable mechanic and found mine to be stock original. Have yours looked at and discuss the options. My total rebuild with all upgrades was $2800
My 3rd break light went out 1994 f150 so I replaced the bulbs and now my rev lights on the 3rd break light stay on while truck is completely off ?? Can anyone help ?
I’ve got a bad situation and need some help.. I have a 96 bronco with a 91 e150 engine.. both 5.0 but all of the accessories on the engine are from the 91 .. it doesn’t run right due to timing and other factors that make them incompatible.. so I ordered a long block for this truck and now I’m not sure what I can swap on to it and what I need to buy
@@trustme7731 totally different but got her dialed in! It needed the injection timing to match spark timing.. I swapped the ecm wires to correct the injection and it’s perfect
Always a good choice especially if the engine is a bit worn out or burning oil! In my old 302 I ran 15w40 in the summer, my current trucks engine is really healthy so I just run 10w30
So I've got a bunch of random knowledge I'll post here. These are just all my understanding and/or experience, so I may be wrong. ZF5 swaps are a popular "upgrade" to these trucks, especially from the Mazda M5OD manuals that were standard in the F150 and most F250s. If you are buying a ZF5 to swap, make sure it has the correct bellhousing pattern. These transmissions have 3 bellhousing patterns I believe; smallblock(300, 302, 351), bigblock(429, 460), and diesel engines (6.9L and 7.3L). There are 2 further distinctions between gas and diesel ZF5s, and the 2 generations of ZF5 (S5-42 & S5-47). The gas ZF5s usually came with much wider gear ratios than the diesel ones. The 2 generations had minor changes and are still compatible with all the same engines. For my swap from the stock M5OD to ZF5, I found a 4x2 S5-42 without the integrated drum parking brake, and it mounted directly to my 300 inline 6 without any fuss. I did not have to replace the stock transmisison crossmember, but the driveshaft did have to get cut and one end modified to fit the ZF5's yoke. The swap got me a much lower crawler 1st gear and a much lower, more reasonable reverse gear. Drivability overall went down, as the ZF5 is a big clunky slow metal box. Not great for daily driving, very good for a work truck. Look into your flywheel situation to potentially avoid "gear rollover" noises before you do a swap. The ZF6 is not compatible with the ZF5, unfortunately. I'm running Motorcraft 5W-20 in my 300 inline 6 right now and have been for about the past year. There's no knocking or other obvious damage being caused by it, though oil pressure got a little lower than I'd like during the hot summer down here in the southern US. My mechanic and I originally decided to go this route because I had a distributor (oil pump is driven off distributer shaft) shear its gear off and drop it in the oil pan. We've since decided to go back to 5W-30 even though it's about to be winter again, and we've since concluded the oil wasn't the reason the distributor failed. Not saying you should run 5W-20, but for the last 6k miles nothing bad has happened. My engine has 284k miles on it. I've heard from 1994+ the front suspension mounts between 4x2 and 4x4 are the same. Theoretically it seems like a swap from 4x2 to 4x4 would be as easy as swapping the components and bolting them right up. I have not yet tried this. If you're adding cab lights to your truck, they all seem to have the plug for them in the passenger footwell behind the A-pillar plastic cover. Even F150s. I'm not sure if this is year specific, my truck is a 1994. My understanding is that deleting the smog pump doesn't actually gain you much power if any at all. The headlight switch is a common failure point on these vehicle as it handles the full current of the lights. There are plug-and-play wiring upgrade kits that use relays to take the load off the switch. This is particularly useful if you like adding running lights to the truck like I do. The roof in a regular cab truck is actually 2 panels thick. I hear this is not the case on the supercab and extended cab trucks. Save the headlight adjuster gearboxes if you swap lenses. The ones that come with the new lenses are probably junk. These trucks have dummy oil pressure gauges. My understanding is they show "yes" oil pressure from 6 PSI+, whch is apparently the minimum spec from Ford for idle pressure. Obviously this is stupid and makes the gauge completely useless. Invest into an actual gauge. Use a T in the line if you want the original dash gauge to work in conjunction with the new gauge.
Minor updates because why not I now use Shell Rotela T4 10w-30 in my truck pretty much year round. Yes that's a diesel oil, no I don't personally have proof that it's helping or hurting anything. Truck doesn't seem to care really. Just didn't like my oil pressure sitting at 20 PSI when idling in the Summer... The 3G alternstor swap is a must if you ask me. The 300i6 comes with an alternator bracket that accepts alternators with 180 degree apart mounting holes and the stock 120(?) degree holes. Buy a 130amp 3G from a '94 Ford Taurus with the 3.6L engine, I think, and it will fit with no modifications required. You'll need a new 4 gauge charge cable from the 3G alternator's output to the right terminal on the starter solenoid (the terminal towards the rear of the truck), find the 3g conversion wire from PA Performance that comes with the gray 3 prong connector and the gray 1 prong stator wire connector. The yellow wire on the new adapter wraps back to the output terminal on the back of the alternator, the 1 prong stator wire plugs into the alternstor, and the green wire left over splices into the green wire from the old 2G alternator wiring harness (found in the round plug, not the boxy rectangular plug). You won't reuse any other wires from the old harness, but you dont have to remove them. If your truck came with a voltmeter in the dash, you should cut out the resistor in the PA Performance adapter as there is already one in the dash, at least so I'm told. You will need a slightly longer belt. My truck (A/C, power steering pump, and Smog pump still attached) takes a 99 9/16ths inch belt. Technically you should add a grounding strap from the back of the 3G alternator to the frame using the same gauge wire you ran to the starter solenoid. I didn't do this and so far have not had any problems. I'd recommend it anyways. Hopefully got all that right lol
I'm considering a classic 9th gen F-150, my first ever pickup, as a retirement toy. I'm 66, have limited tools and auto maintenance knowledge and a voice in my ear (besides my wife) saying "don't!" What I know I'll need is a reliable mechanic. Anyone know of someone in the Memphis area?
I'm glad I found your videos!
I found an orphan F150 5.0 XLT that needs love and money.
I am doing brakes suspension, complete exhaust, and unf*cking lots of poorly done repairs.
I paid $700 and will have $2500 in parts before I am done.
Ever seen a control arn held into the rear bracket with a swingset chain?😂
Thanks, Junkautowerks. This information helps a lot for a new guy getting in the fever of a 1993 F150 XLT.
Just found your channel with its great content! These are the best trucks ever built in my opinion as I own 2. I have a 94 long bed 4x4 with 204,000 miles that I have owned since 07. Extremely reliable and never any major issues with factor motor and transmission. 2 days ago I purchased a 93 long bed 2 wheel drive with only 80k miles in mint condition. I would own 50 of these if I could and would much rather drive a ninth gen over anything new! Keep up the great content brother!!
Thank you very much for watching! Yeah these old 9th gens hold a special place in my heart and I’ll own at least one until the day I die, if I could I would also fill a property with as many as I could get my hands on lol! Unfortunately being born in the early 2000’s I wasn’t able to see these new but I grew up in the passenger seat of my old man’s 7.3! So naturally I’ve owned 4 of them so far! I daily drive the 94 in the video
Dude that was a good video! I used to have a 92 and now I have a 95 single cab long bed 5.0 four-wheel-drive Burgundy paint. I love these trucks.
Thank you man! And Yesir these trucks are lifestyle!
I bought an '92 F150 5 liter automatic 4x4 shortly after we bought an acreage back in '08. It showed about 270 thousand Kilometers, and well used, but the price was really good. The only thing it really needed was a good set of tires, which cost more than I paid for the truck.
The reasons for wanting the truck was that the property had a lot of stuff on it that I wanted to get rid off, and I needed something to haul domestic water with from the nearest town on gravel and dirt roads that were not always in the best shape.
The truck looked pretty rough, lots of dents and rust, but it seemed to run and drive well, and I figured that if it would last me through the winter, I'd get a new one in the spring.
I've have since then also acquired an 8 ft. snow blade, and installed a hidden hitch for a gooseneck trailer that has a 4500 litre water tank on it.
Well, that truck now has 350 thousand KM on it, and it still purrs along. It's been very reliable, and I've only had to have it towed home once, when I washed the engine compartment at the car wash in town, and quit on me on the way home. (Water in the distributor. Not the easiest to get at without tools.) I've replaced the water pump, front wheel bearings, windshield wiper motor, radiator and steering box. I don't baby it, but I'm very particular about looking after it. Regardless of mileage, I change the oil every spring and fall. I never have to add oil in between. As with my other vehicles, I keep a very close watch on any noises, coolant or tranny fluids, etc. I'm tempted to put an Energizer bunny decal on it, because it just keeps on going, but I don't want to push my luck.
Other than the way it looks, it's one of the best vehicles I've ever owned, and it's paid for itself many times over.
Thanks for the videos! Always nice to learn more. Never know when it'll come in handy.
And thank you for watching! Yeah those old Fords have a special place in my heart and I’ll probably have at least one in my driveway until the day I die! Sadly I was too young to see these things brand new but I grew up in the passenger seat of one! Extremely reliable and well made trucks, and when things do go wrong they are easy to work on, parts are cheap and plentiful!
Great video 👍 thanks for sharing. I just got my 96 F150 and trying to figure out some issues. This video helped
I appreciate it man. My transmission has been acting weird and come to think of it.. my 3rd brake light has a bulb that is out haha. I’m going to replace that and hopefully it fixes it.
Yeah it’s a pretty weird one but it can be really awesome if that turns out to be the issue, make sure you replace it with a factory style bulb. Using an LED can mess up the resistance causing the same problems as a dead bulb
Fun fact, if you want to run true duals with no crossover, it is best to put the O2 sensor on the Passenger side for these trucks.
Dude awesome video and useful information. 3rd brake light is a for sure. Keep it up.
Appreciate it man! Thank you for watching
Thanks for the info and belt diagram. Ive been resto modding my 92 Flare Side and got some good tips.
I run 5 W 20 in my 1999 F 350 7.3 & my 1996 F 150 4.9 5 speed for years, The oils I use are Shaffers 5 W 20 999. High but worth every cent. Nether pickup ever had a problem, Nether ever needs oil added, I put mobile 5 W 20 in my F 350 7.3 on this last change and it runs even smoother without the noise the 7.3 makes, But the point I’m trying to make here is the new full synthetic oils are great for these old engine’s. Thanks for your video
Great videos . Thank you . I just got one 1993 f150 going to be my summer project
On the fuel like the check valves were made into the braided fuel lines on my trucks I have both a 93 lightning and a 95 extended cab 4x4
Ive seen some fellers run the crank case vent to the intake tube on the air pump to push the oil vapor into the exhaust and not make a disaster of the intake system .
So that why I hear that air pumping noise. Just below my alternator. LOL
Yep! Good old 90s emissions junk, but an easy thing to remove and gain horsepower
Do you get involved and live streams/ community talk at all on of these trucks. I own 2 of them 87 and 97 both f250s the 97 351 is still eec-iv and 87 a 460 carb. the 97s being 8600 gvw didnt have to conform to the odb2 so you got legacy speed density. Can concur with the dead 3rd brake light issue made my e4od do wierd things which I like the transmission behind the 351 at least. my 460 has a t18. good quick overview on the common annoyances on these trucks.
I do comment a lot on OBS Facebook forums but besides that and this channel I haven’t done any live streams or anything like that. And what I wouldn’t give for my F150 to be OBD2 lol Ford OBD1 was a nightmare
Also : for the 96 model year under 8500 GVWR the car had an MAF and changed from EEC-IV to EEC -V.
This also meant change drom ODB1 to ODB2.
And this mesnt, that the car had no longer the Air Pump, not TAB and TAD Sensor, but 2 Cats, 3 O2 sensors and a separate EGR Valve Solenoid next to the Spark Coil.
That was one hell of a read. Came off like it was made up Hollywood version of mechanic talk. Good stuff.
You do not understand air injection reaction very well sir. It is still found in vehicles today, but it's an electric blower, instead of being belt driven. The fuel pump has no check valve, thats why Ford put the inline valves in, (I did hundreds of them at the dealership in the 90's), and a K&N will let dirt and oil contaminate the MAF hotwire, cause low power, drivability issues, it can cause low line pressure and kill the trans early, again, I've seen it, dozens, and dozens of times. The PSOM module allows you to change the speedometet settings for tire size, gear ratio, and depends on the VSS ring in the rear diff for this signal, it too can cause trouble with automatic shift scheduling, as well as third brake light issues will make the AODE/4R70W act up as well.
Mr.james I have a few questions since you worked on them in the 90s I have a 1995 f150 300 4.9l and the break and abs light stays on and the speedo goes crazy. I replaced the speed sensor but it's still acting up.
@@BrockPerry-fs2ds That system is almost 30 years old, #1, make sure the ABS tone ring is true, and does not wobble, #2, make sure there is no rust, dirt or debris that is keeping the sensor from being close to the tone wheel, #3 make sure the connectors are clean and have no green corrosion, #4 the ABS / RABS module busses the RWS sensor data to the PSOM, check to make sure it is not swollen, and leaking green stuff, that is the death of modules. Good luck, touch base again if that does not do it.
Starting in 92 the fuel pump assembly’s were responsible for returning fuel back to the right tank there was no longer a selector under the frame rail, when they go bad fuel can return to the wrong tank, Ford did a recall on this and added inline check valves on trucks with this issue so you didn’t have to replace the entire fuel pump, That’s all I was stating. Also all I said about air pumps is they are pointless emissions garbage that robs power. And K&N filters do fine if they are properly oiled and not dry, obviously they will let in more contaminates than a stock filter but so do all cone style air filters. And I also have an entire video on reprogramming PSOMs for bigger tires
Hey I just found your channel and it’s got a lot of good info. I have a question, what purpose does the air dam do on my 94 f150? I have a 97 F250 and it doesn’t have one.
You mean the plastic that connects from the airbox to just about the radiator? That funnels cold air into the air box
@@JunkAutoWerks no, the plastic piece that is attached to the bottom side of the front bumper.
@@turkfebruary5836 For me I found it allows more rocks to impact the trans cooler.
Can you please post a link or part info for the check valve that goes between the tanks on return line? Thank you
1L34 9J274-BA is the OEM p/n.
Thanks man. We just bought a 96 for my son, who's 15, and likes older model trucks. Any advice, other than fluid changes on what he should do, as a new-to-him owner?
That’s awesome man! My first truck at 14 was a 91 F150, And as far as advice goes I’d double check it has the cruise control recall harness with the blue sticker at the brake master if he has cruise control, those can be a fire hazard if they haven’t been replaced. Aside from that maybe a new transmission filter if it’s an automatic and keep it well maintained!
@@JunkAutoWerks I have a list a mile long. He's loving working on it. Thanks for the vid.
Appreciate you.
That means a lot! Thank you for watching
5/20 weight is awesome ! Oil depends on bearing clearance .
How can I find a 1993 Ford f-150 front gas tank float assembly????
Just got one for my truck on rockauto.com
I Might be wrong, but it looks like there is no third break light bulb. I was going to replace with a LED assembly I bought just haven't put in yet. would you advice against it? Also, I had a long wire going from the engine bay right side with a connecter that said 3rd break light, there was a fork with the wire that was ran along the frame all the way to the driver brake light area, The only weird thing is it wasnt connected to anything, it looked like the previous owner(s) had a tap and another wire connected that wasn't connected anywhere. I honestly couldn't figure out where it went so just coiled it back up and put neatly in the engine bay for now.
great video!
Hmm yeah there should be a wiring harness with three bulbs behind the third brake light lens, Two cab lights and the centre break light, If it’s missing I would strongly recommend fixing that because it can really mess with an automatic, also I’d strongly advise against using an LED kit as it can give you the same problems as a dead bulb, the transmission computer reads the actual resistance of the bulb which is different for a LED
@@JunkAutoWerks thanks! I really found this out when the bulb in the cluster died that essentially signals the alternator to run. I had a dead battery and changed to a new alt with no change. Found out it was just a $.99 bulb that burnt out. For the life of me I couldnt figure it out.
Could this cause it to not go forward at all?
I have a quick question. Just got a 93 5.0 extended cab short bed. Wanted to change out my shocks for some Bilstein 5100's but the only option is for a 4 or 6 inch lift. Are there any other models/years that are interchangeable with the OBS where I could get a normal 5100 length?
I actually remember seeing a question exactly like this on an OBS Facebook forum, Im pretty sure they do make a different for a factory OBS but it’s not called a 5100, The 5100 is specifically for lifted trucks. Try the model 24-184809
Wassup man! Love the videos, I want your opinion on my trucks situation
( 1993 F150 XLT 5.8L 2WD 88,000 miles )
I get inconsistent turn over times with my truck. I have replaced my front fuel pump, and I have replaced the starter and it did not resolve the issue. Just wondering if you know anything else I could replace to get a crisp consistent start up
I would say look into the ignition module or the wiring around it, that's a common cause for inconsistent starts.
@@JunkAutoWerks thank you
Good info. After replacing the front tank on my 95 F150 Ford 4.9 I went to do the rear tank after pulling the tank off I thought I would check the voltage coming to the push connector and it was 7.5 V I’m afraid to put the rear tank in because I don’t have 12 V there. I went up front to the dashboard I have a new switch I checked the female side and I only had 7 V there. I check the inertia switch and the resistor and the fuse I have no idea what’s going on do you?
Hey man i have a 96 f150 5.0 the harmonic balancer has 4 pins can i use a regular one cause they discontinued mine.
Only thing I can think of off hand between 1992-1996 is the steering wheel change in 1994.
Good info
What would be the best way to delete the air injection emissions pump on my 96 f150 5.0 ?
Easiest way is to just bypass it using a smaller belt
If you delete then what I did was to buy 2 bolts, use crush washers and put them in the back of the heads where the tubes from the pump go. I had to cut the bolts down some as they were too long.
Please if you can help me out I'd appreciate it I have searched for 4 months. I just can't find one.
I now where a red and silver v 8 needs engine but told transmission good, XLT no rust, sold some parts but inside was like new condition red, short bed, 700.00 in Oklahoma, No title said owner died, would need a 42 to get titled, lots of these around
Good video but i heard the extra oxygen raise the temperature of the catalytic converter to burn more
It may very well do that but in my opinion both the cat and air pump are a waste of space
@@JunkAutoWerks Having grown up in L.A in the 1970's, I can tell you that they actually have a purpose which is beneficial to all of us.
It's a 5 speed. Straight 6 300 6 cyl.
My 92 f150 5.0 has low compresion so u recommend 15-40 diesel engine oil?
For sure, just make sure you change it in the winter if you live up north
i have a 96 f250 4x4 long bed ext cab xlt . i have a re curing problem with fuel lines that feed the rails that go under the intake . its a 5.8 gas . you have to take the top part of the intake off to access them. i have had it fixed twice by professional garages , about 5 years apart. is there a permanent fix for this and is this a common problem?
I have same truck, not had this issue yet but did have to replace the shrader valve on the fuel line that was leaking. It was easy $10 fix , just unscrew and screw on the new one. Only issue I have had with fuel line so far.
Since this truck is driven infrequently, I think rodents have for some reason have been chewing on the flexible fuel lines under the plenum 😟
I love my 96 f150 5.0 single cab 8ft bed, i wouldn't trade it for any other vehicle, no doubt
Don’t forget about my 97 F350
I just bought a 95 f150 and not sure what's wrong with it. When I shift to reverse it "jumps" I guess you can say that as well as when it goes for 1st gear to second and from second to third.. is an automatic v6
V6? Are you sure it isn’t the 300 i6? And as far as the jump goes sometimes these transmissions like to slam into gear, but I’d check your ATF level and colour and maybe take it to a transmission shop
There were quite a few upgrades to these transmissions. I had mine rebuilt by a reputable mechanic and found mine to be stock original. Have yours looked at and discuss the options. My total rebuild with all upgrades was $2800
My 3rd break light went out 1994 f150 so I replaced the bulbs and now my rev lights on the 3rd break light stay on while truck is completely off ?? Can anyone help ?
You mind giving a run down on a late model bricknose? I just bought a 1991 f150 XLT lariat 5.0 5 speed 4wd short bed.
What questions you got about it? I had a 91 5.0 5 speed myself was a solid truck
I’ve got a bad situation and need some help.. I have a 96 bronco with a 91 e150 engine.. both 5.0 but all of the accessories on the engine are from the 91 .. it doesn’t run right due to timing and other factors that make them incompatible.. so I ordered a long block for this truck and now I’m not sure what I can swap on to it and what I need to buy
Different ECM?
@@trustme7731 totally different but got her dialed in! It needed the injection timing to match spark timing.. I swapped the ecm wires to correct the injection and it’s perfect
You don't need a new tps just recalibrate it . Plus you don't need to disconnect anything from throttle body but TPS
How do you recalibrate it?
So 10w-30 will be good for Georgia, USA all year long???
Yeah if it doesn't get below freezing there during the winter
I live in WNC i run 5w20 in my truck and 5w40 rotella t6 in my 7.3l excurison
Conventional, NOT synthetic!
I run 15-40 in my 351 in my 89
Always a good choice especially if the engine is a bit worn out or burning oil! In my old 302 I ran 15w40 in the summer, my current trucks engine is really healthy so I just run 10w30
Yunks works 🇺🇲🏁🏆
So I've got a bunch of random knowledge I'll post here. These are just all my understanding and/or experience, so I may be wrong.
ZF5 swaps are a popular "upgrade" to these trucks, especially from the Mazda M5OD manuals that were standard in the F150 and most F250s. If you are buying a ZF5 to swap, make sure it has the correct bellhousing pattern. These transmissions have 3 bellhousing patterns I believe; smallblock(300, 302, 351), bigblock(429, 460), and diesel engines (6.9L and 7.3L). There are 2 further distinctions between gas and diesel ZF5s, and the 2 generations of ZF5 (S5-42 & S5-47). The gas ZF5s usually came with much wider gear ratios than the diesel ones. The 2 generations had minor changes and are still compatible with all the same engines. For my swap from the stock M5OD to ZF5, I found a 4x2 S5-42 without the integrated drum parking brake, and it mounted directly to my 300 inline 6 without any fuss. I did not have to replace the stock transmisison crossmember, but the driveshaft did have to get cut and one end modified to fit the ZF5's yoke. The swap got me a much lower crawler 1st gear and a much lower, more reasonable reverse gear. Drivability overall went down, as the ZF5 is a big clunky slow metal box. Not great for daily driving, very good for a work truck. Look into your flywheel situation to potentially avoid "gear rollover" noises before you do a swap. The ZF6 is not compatible with the ZF5, unfortunately.
I'm running Motorcraft 5W-20 in my 300 inline 6 right now and have been for about the past year. There's no knocking or other obvious damage being caused by it, though oil pressure got a little lower than I'd like during the hot summer down here in the southern US. My mechanic and I originally decided to go this route because I had a distributor (oil pump is driven off distributer shaft) shear its gear off and drop it in the oil pan. We've since decided to go back to 5W-30 even though it's about to be winter again, and we've since concluded the oil wasn't the reason the distributor failed. Not saying you should run 5W-20, but for the last 6k miles nothing bad has happened. My engine has 284k miles on it.
I've heard from 1994+ the front suspension mounts between 4x2 and 4x4 are the same. Theoretically it seems like a swap from 4x2 to 4x4 would be as easy as swapping the components and bolting them right up. I have not yet tried this.
If you're adding cab lights to your truck, they all seem to have the plug for them in the passenger footwell behind the A-pillar plastic cover. Even F150s. I'm not sure if this is year specific, my truck is a 1994.
My understanding is that deleting the smog pump doesn't actually gain you much power if any at all.
The headlight switch is a common failure point on these vehicle as it handles the full current of the lights. There are plug-and-play wiring upgrade kits that use relays to take the load off the switch. This is particularly useful if you like adding running lights to the truck like I do.
The roof in a regular cab truck is actually 2 panels thick. I hear this is not the case on the supercab and extended cab trucks.
Save the headlight adjuster gearboxes if you swap lenses. The ones that come with the new lenses are probably junk.
These trucks have dummy oil pressure gauges. My understanding is they show "yes" oil pressure from 6 PSI+, whch is apparently the minimum spec from Ford for idle pressure. Obviously this is stupid and makes the gauge completely useless. Invest into an actual gauge. Use a T in the line if you want the original dash gauge to work in conjunction with the new gauge.
Minor updates because why not
I now use Shell Rotela T4 10w-30 in my truck pretty much year round. Yes that's a diesel oil, no I don't personally have proof that it's helping or hurting anything. Truck doesn't seem to care really. Just didn't like my oil pressure sitting at 20 PSI when idling in the Summer...
The 3G alternstor swap is a must if you ask me. The 300i6 comes with an alternator bracket that accepts alternators with 180 degree apart mounting holes and the stock 120(?) degree holes. Buy a 130amp 3G from a '94 Ford Taurus with the 3.6L engine, I think, and it will fit with no modifications required. You'll need a new 4 gauge charge cable from the 3G alternator's output to the right terminal on the starter solenoid (the terminal towards the rear of the truck), find the 3g conversion wire from PA Performance that comes with the gray 3 prong connector and the gray 1 prong stator wire connector. The yellow wire on the new adapter wraps back to the output terminal on the back of the alternator, the 1 prong stator wire plugs into the alternstor, and the green wire left over splices into the green wire from the old 2G alternator wiring harness (found in the round plug, not the boxy rectangular plug). You won't reuse any other wires from the old harness, but you dont have to remove them. If your truck came with a voltmeter in the dash, you should cut out the resistor in the PA Performance adapter as there is already one in the dash, at least so I'm told. You will need a slightly longer belt. My truck (A/C, power steering pump, and Smog pump still attached) takes a 99 9/16ths inch belt.
Technically you should add a grounding strap from the back of the 3G alternator to the frame using the same gauge wire you ran to the starter solenoid. I didn't do this and so far have not had any problems. I'd recommend it anyways.
Hopefully got all that right lol
I'm considering a classic 9th gen F-150, my first ever pickup, as a retirement toy. I'm 66, have limited tools and auto maintenance knowledge and a voice in my ear (besides my wife) saying "don't!" What I know I'll need is a reliable mechanic. Anyone know of someone in the Memphis area?
I run 20w 50 in my 95’ f150 5.8 with 300,000 miles on it
Air pump's purpose is to pump oxygen to the cats to heat them up faster.
Yeah I learned this after the fact, can’t win them all lol
And to promote a cleaner burn.
Wait till you do a cab swap. You think the engine difference is bad? Lol they’re an absolute nightmare. Try swapping a 93 to 97
Cats on those old Trucks are worth pretty good $, sell them
Can you sell just the internals of the cat or do you need the intact outer case