The gas charge in the shock is only there to induce enough pressure on the shock oil to keep foaming down and thereby reducing shock fade. "Rebound" from the gas shock is next to non-existent with the weight of the vehicle on it. In a traditional twin-tube design, the shock will still eventually get hot enough to induce some shock fade..it just takes longer to show up. Monotube shocks, like those 5125's, have the most resistance to shock fade and are about the best performance someone can get from a cheap non-rebuildable shock. Once you get into air shocks or ORI's , then you have enough pressure in the shock to actually hold the weight of the vehicle in lighter applications, but they will fade as they get hot and performance is lost, so these are best for low speed applications. Coil-overs offer the best adjustability since spring rates, gas charge, and valving are practically infinitely tunable.
Correct, that's what the springs are for. The comparison was done to illustrate the differences in construction/dampening between the OEM shocks and the Bilsteins.
Great video man. Checkout max Anthony’s long travel kit. One of the main issues with the oem setup is the springs bind and pop so in Max’s kit you use yj springs and spring hangers. More money but much softer ride
No experience with ARC, but I haven't read too many good things about them on forums...not to mention that they have little to no presence in the US market. I would personally never invest the time and money into buying products from a company like ARC when there are so many better options with better customer support here in the states. Just my two pennies though, thank you for the suggestion.
Most boots have drain holes for that reason, and these are inverted so they drain pretty well whenever they get wet. In the desert where this machine lives, the risk of damage to the shafts from rocks and debris is far worse than moisture. That said, to each their own. Do whatever works best for your situation.
Thanks John! I grew up near Toledo, Ohio...where every Wrangler in the country has been built since 1992. I've always wanted one but it's never really been practical for me, so I'm pretty fond of this little Roxor.
Being that these are quite a bit longer than the OEM shocks, I would advise against using these in a non-lifted application. While Bilstein builds some VERY tough shocks (I've never blown one in 15+ years of using them pretty hard), running any shock outside of it's recommended travel range is a recipe for bad things - maybe not right away, but somethings gotta give eventually you know? Mahindra did offer an OEM-length Bilstein 5100 option, part number 11AC00001579. I'm not sure if they are available anymore, but I'd call your local mahindra dealer with that part number and see what they can find. If not, a better option out of the Bilstein 5125 catalog would be the 33-233970. The travel is just a little bit less than the OEM shocks, but the valving is much better and it's the only shock in the catalog that's close to the OEM dimensions. That's the way I'd go if I were at stock height.
Northern Nevada near the Ruby mountains. Very pretty area, especially now that wildfire season is done for the most part and the mountains have snow caps again. It was a pretty brutal summer out here, lots of heat and smoke. Glad it's winding down!
They will definitely get hot, but not to the point where it will cause huge problems in our application. With a monotube IFP style shock that's just the nature of the beast (especially when you're on a budget). That being said, the ride improvement is still incredible given the low cost per shock. This is mostly a utility rig for us, so the washboard roads are more of a concern in short bursts when we are going from pivot to pivot to do work and check equipment. If I were building it for dedicated overlanding, I would have definitely gone to a remote res 5125 or 5160 for better heat dissipation, or looked into a custom option from Fox or Icon. I haven't driven it since Monday because I'm waiting on those lift shackles to show up, which should be here today...I didn't want to run the shocks too close to the bottom of their travel and risk damaging them. Hopefully I can get the shackles installed over the weekend. Thanks for watching, I appreciate it!
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Just ordered those shocks for my 2018. Thanks for all the details.
Thanks for the support! So glad they made a huge difference!
Thank you guys! I appreciate all of the help with my questions, and for getting the shocks out to me so quickly!
* Thank you for sharing the dirt road usefulness of Mahindra with Billstein.*
The gas charge in the shock is only there to induce enough pressure on the shock oil to keep foaming down and thereby reducing shock fade. "Rebound" from the gas shock is next to non-existent with the weight of the vehicle on it.
In a traditional twin-tube design, the shock will still eventually get hot enough to induce some shock fade..it just takes longer to show up. Monotube shocks, like those 5125's, have the most resistance to shock fade and are about the best performance someone can get from a cheap non-rebuildable shock.
Once you get into air shocks or ORI's , then you have enough pressure in the shock to actually hold the weight of the vehicle in lighter applications, but they will fade as they get hot and performance is lost, so these are best for low speed applications.
Coil-overs offer the best adjustability since spring rates, gas charge, and valving are practically infinitely tunable.
Correct, that's what the springs are for. The comparison was done to illustrate the differences in construction/dampening between the OEM shocks and the Bilsteins.
Great video, thanks for the tips
Great review thanks
Great video man. Checkout max Anthony’s long travel kit. One of the main issues with the oem setup is the springs bind and pop so in Max’s kit you use yj springs and spring hangers. More money but much softer ride
Awesome info, thank you sir! I'll check it out.
Do you know how much modification is involved? Which shocks does he use?
Try Indian ARC suspension
No experience with ARC, but I haven't read too many good things about them on forums...not to mention that they have little to no presence in the US market. I would personally never invest the time and money into buying products from a company like ARC when there are so many better options with better customer support here in the states. Just my two pennies though, thank you for the suggestion.
In my experience it is better to not use boots if you live in a wet area. They hold in a lot of moisture.
Most boots have drain holes for that reason, and these are inverted so they drain pretty well whenever they get wet. In the desert where this machine lives, the risk of damage to the shafts from rocks and debris is far worse than moisture. That said, to each their own. Do whatever works best for your situation.
Another great review video. Planning to add new shocks and a small lift on my CJ5.
Thanks John! I grew up near Toledo, Ohio...where every Wrangler in the country has been built since 1992. I've always wanted one but it's never really been practical for me, so I'm pretty fond of this little Roxor.
I have the same roxor. I do not plan to lift my roxor. Do you think these shocks would work without the lift?
Great video, thx
Being that these are quite a bit longer than the OEM shocks, I would advise against using these in a non-lifted application. While Bilstein builds some VERY tough shocks (I've never blown one in 15+ years of using them pretty hard), running any shock outside of it's recommended travel range is a recipe for bad things - maybe not right away, but somethings gotta give eventually you know?
Mahindra did offer an OEM-length Bilstein 5100 option, part number 11AC00001579. I'm not sure if they are available anymore, but I'd call your local mahindra dealer with that part number and see what they can find. If not, a better option out of the Bilstein 5125 catalog would be the 33-233970. The travel is just a little bit less than the OEM shocks, but the valving is much better and it's the only shock in the catalog that's close to the OEM dimensions. That's the way I'd go if I were at stock height.
@@AllThingsMech Thanks for your advice! I really appreciate it.
Any time! Happy to help.
What part of the US are you in? Amazing views! 👍
Northern Nevada near the Ruby mountains. Very pretty area, especially now that wildfire season is done for the most part and the mountains have snow caps again. It was a pretty brutal summer out here, lots of heat and smoke. Glad it's winding down!
@@AllThingsMech Thanks for the information and I'll check out the location on Google maps. 🤘
Hey nice video! I was amazed at how steady the jeep (read class of vehicle and not the brand) was on the dirt section after the switch 👍🏼👍🏼
Curious to know how hot the shocks are after driving the washboard roads for the day. Very informative, thanks for taking the time to post.
They will definitely get hot, but not to the point where it will cause huge problems in our application. With a monotube IFP style shock that's just the nature of the beast (especially when you're on a budget). That being said, the ride improvement is still incredible given the low cost per shock. This is mostly a utility rig for us, so the washboard roads are more of a concern in short bursts when we are going from pivot to pivot to do work and check equipment. If I were building it for dedicated overlanding, I would have definitely gone to a remote res 5125 or 5160 for better heat dissipation, or looked into a custom option from Fox or Icon. I haven't driven it since Monday because I'm waiting on those lift shackles to show up, which should be here today...I didn't want to run the shocks too close to the bottom of their travel and risk damaging them. Hopefully I can get the shackles installed over the weekend. Thanks for watching, I appreciate it!