Just an FYI for the gas tank I reccomend putting it underneath the seat like f1600 cars and to get to it you just take the seat out. the seat is just held in with friction and the belts are attached to the frame so that holds the seat in too as the belts are required to be SUPER tight
There are some geometric changes you need to make to that chassis before you go too far. You will only regret not doing them now. Firstly the cockpit needs to be wider both down to the bottom (hip area) and also further forwards towards the steering wheel. Secondly, the steering column needs to mount underneath the cross beam you have directly in front of you, so that needs to go up and you need to sit lower. Think knees in line with your chest and steering column between your legs.
loving this series reminds me of youtube before all the clickbaity trash we have today. my only suggestion would be to widen the chassis even to avoid any future issues but i have been loving this so far. cant wait for part 5!
Instead of thickening the whole seat, try stiffening the seat with stringers or brackets. Fibreglass is not that stiff in bending (except if you make the seat way, way thicker) but if you add (composite or not) brackets you'll save loads of weight and material cost. Also you'd want to have a positive mould (called a plug) because the best surface finish has to be on the inside of the seat, so making a mould of the seat you have in clay for example and then using that as a mould/plug for your glass fibre would be ideal. Even better would be to do vacuum bagging, but that requires all kinds of different supplies. The easiest to use is prepreg, but you'll need an oven to cure it in. Good luck!
Yep, that’s exactly why it’s best to only tack the frame together when building something like this. That way It’s a lot easier to come back later and change things a bit if you need to. Nice job man, this thing is looking awesome already
Loving the mini f 1, lol fyi tho, you can use fleece and resin to strengthen the seat and built from scratch. But for a first attempt at glass you guys did awesome. The he'll fox built would be awesome to see, sure its coming along nicely. You do great work man. Keep up the original ideas. Happy holidays to you and A.T.K
Have only recently stumbled across your channel. I am stoked that I've found another great channel to watch, can't wait to see this build completed - it's going to be awesome!
Awesome build so far! I would make a bend to the crossbar over your knees in the chassis, this way the steeringcolumn can be mounted from underneath and you’ll have more space for your legs. Keep the episodes coming!
The algorithm put this on my feed a few days ago and boy am I happy it did! Loving the content so far and have been itching for each new episode. Keep it up!
Just you and your wife trying random things in the garage, learning new stuff, thats awesome man. Looks like such a fun time. I know you're wayyyyy ahead on this series now but i just found you so i'll catch up fast.
Thanks for your videos! Fun to follow:) But I strongly suggest that you make the hip area and the area around the knees wider. Perhaps just bend the bars outwards so get a bit more rounded shape? Make the front go up a bit more to ”lower” the seat so the steering axel goes underneath that bar. Much for comfort but also a much better endresult. Will result in better shape for the body later on
Actually having a diff puts a lot of weight on the rear axle, wich will prevent the car from oversteering on quick steering inputs, making the weight transfer a lot easier
I must admit that between watching your and Two Stroke Stuffing channels make me want to build another project for the kids and I to thrash around in!!!
Absolutely love these videos honestly, best decision I have made in a long time clicking on part one of these. Was absolutely hooked soon as I seen the progression. Can’t wait for the next video keep up the hard work. What diameter pipe are you using and what’s the thickness please?
Absolutely love this build - it was good to see Gina get involved. I do believe that this build would be going a lot smoother if you had Tokyo there for moral support - there is a significant lack of trailer park boys qoutes. Awesome channel Kyle - G'day from Brisbane Australia 😊
Kyle and Genna y'all rock! Yeah if you can handle it then show us the other build! I would love to see it just means we see more of Kyle and Geena! Peace easy and get that v!
Loving the series! And I would have no problem following along with both builds at the same time.. As a side note, we got 55cm (22 inches) of snow on Sunday, and are expecting another 81cm (32 inches) tonight.
You technically made a plug for your new seat. Take what you have now, flip it over, and use the shiny side. Start by bracing the inside where you would sit good so it won't distort. Use some 1708 biaxle first then another layer of chop after and roll it out with rollers for fiberglass. Then add wood bracing. Glass that in. Flip it over to shiny side which is under side of what you have now. Gelcoat it and fair it out smooth and polish out to 1500 and wax the piss out of it. Now you have a mold to make the same exact seat every time for multiple. You can gelcoat the waxed part now and have a pre colored shiny seat, add your fiberglass chop matt, resin, biaxle layers and roll it out and you have a perfect part every time.
My fav most exciting build on TH-cam right now. one thing I would say to get some more arm room is make the side pods then the enforcement bars where your arms are you can take out to give your elbow more space. Idk how to word it and would love to help
Love it and it's pretty awesome the learn as you go process. I use to fiberglass on boats and absolutely hate it, looks like you did a decent job. Lay the mat in a cross hatch as with a seat you'll want strength in many directions.
Looking good. Awesome to see people just diving into things and figuring them out. I love the learning process and would rather watch this than just cookie cutter bolt together stuff
For the seat... You could so something like EMT's use with mass pants. It's basically an air tight bean bag chair. You sit in it, suck out the air, and it conforms to your body. Bonus... you can then let air back in, set someone else in there amd suck the air out again, conforming perfectly to another driver. And you don't have to mess with expanding foam. just buy a bean bag and some heavy plastic bags to put the Styrofoam in. A regular AC vacuum pump would pull the air out effectively.
Packing tape is the material commonly used to create a mold. Cover the seat in packing tape and then cover it with a couple layers of mold release wax. The tape would hold to the seat so much better.
You now have a negative mold for the seat. Install a release layer to the back of the seat and fiberglass it then you will have the final seat bucket. The underside of your mold is what you want to be sitting on, not the rough side you have now. Use bladed rollers to push out any air bubbles in the final layer.
I realize that just because I gave my opinion on the design it doesnt mean that is the reason he is doing it but it sure feels good to know that Kyle is accepting of our opinions and isnt afraid to implement them if they are good ideas.
Very nice. Just one note is that in modern formula cars your feet stais above your pelvis, and this is what alows you to have a steering weel in the correct height in front of your nose and more protection on the sides due to the height needet to cover the steering weel
id suggest doing this to the bar going to the side right infront of the seat where you are going to mount the wheel, make the slope on the front nose longer and taller so there is more room for legs and the wheel, it would look more in proportion with the top frame part too
You need PVA mold release to spray on the seat, let it dry and you can then fiberglass over the seat. Use tap water and a hose hose with a nozzle on it to separate the glass from the seat.
should make a minimal sheetmetal support under the seat for mounting, and to fill the voids add some thin padding if possible (could also add a very small amount of comfort idk)
You need to vacuum bag the seat with additional layers. It'll remove anymore airpockets you get. Most model plane guys to it. They usually just take 2 plastic sheets and tape the edges and hook a vacuum up and gently push any trapped air to the vacuum.
The rule in Formula 1000 is that you draw a line from the top of the main roll hoop to the top of the front roll hoop (above your knees), and the driver's helmet has to be 2 inches below that. This was derived from, shall we say, real-world experimentation involving driver's heads and asphalt, so I consider it a minimum. I would recommend replacing the tube above the driver's knees with a curved tube, radius of only 18" or so. Then run the steering column under it. This will improve comfort and crash protection.
You are going to want more triangulation on the roll hoop and rear frame of the car. Besides crash safety, the aerodynamic load of the rear wing and the dynamic load of the suspension is substantial on any race car.
Great job making the top cockpit bars wider. I'm wondering why you didn't make the mid cockpit horizontal bars wider? You had the seat from the Sim that fit you but by making it narrower you aren't leaving room for any expandable foam cushion. It's going to kill your hips in cornering on the track! Widen the mid horizontal bars also to fit the sim seat you have and give some extra space. You need to remember that not only are you going to need room for foam cushion, but your fire/race suit as well.
I think you should use bushings to mount the engine. I have followed several builds where the case has cracked from the different weight,loads,harmonics that the motorcycle engine experiences in a different chassis vs motorbike.
Yes to Fox body stuff NOW!!!! I'm really really loving the Formula build but I really wanna see the Fox and I'm impatient so I vote yes to intermingling.
this is starting to look cooler with every video iteration. I wonder what is your budget on this project. It would be interesting to know for the sake of comparing it to the actual budget that F1 teams have to develop their car.
Loving this build. Since you have checked off the mini-bike and soon this F-car, will a turbo drag snowmobile be next?? As a Canadian, I believe it's required by law.
m8 i'm doing similar but i'm using alloy box section + nut & bolt strong chemical bonding and composite wrap & resin , i'm only 50kg 5ft 7'' aswel..i'm looking at a sub 200kg build full, chassis will only be 25 - 30kg..my hubs are kinda cheap and heavy their from a 150cc quad with built in drum brakes , 10'' trailer wheels 😂 (they was bargain price with stub axles included) with semi slick moped tyres / 10/50/70 . 👍🏻
Just a recommendation. What if you made the bar above your knees in more of a V chape with the point upwards to give your knees more room and it would give you a great place to mount the steering shaft
Use SMD Sunflash fiberglass resin. It only sets in uv light. So, you take it outside on a bright day and it will be hard in a couple seconds. Literally. Seconds. It takes more time the thicker it gets, but essentially a couple seconds for what you are doing.
Do the sit with fiber carbon Use the one you already have as a mold and so the carbon fiber one will be smaller (the one you do is great is just an advice that i give to you) greetings from Argentina
Looks good Kyle! Can't wait to see you take it to a track! Are you planning on making the whole body fibergalss or carbon? Id recommend industrial plastics and paints for your glass and kevlar and carbon needs, Always had reasonable prices. Its a bit of a drive, but if you are buying bulk then it will probably be worth it.
Don't forget that bike engines don't like going around corners straight up. If you look at Superfastmatts channel, you'll see how to avoid seizing the engine. From memory, I think he did a dry sump???
My only concern is will the output shaft coming out the transmission be able to take the torsional load of 2 tires and the diff when launching seeing its only 1” diameter at best, either way its a cool build and i wish you the best with longevity
I've been busy, but I'm watching my backlog before the end of the year. Keep killing it, Kyle! Edit: I smoked a few bowls before watching this and lit the wrong end of a Marlboro. Caught it on the second puff. Don't sweat doing stupid shit on occasion. Look who your audience is.
Just an FYI for the gas tank I reccomend putting it underneath the seat like f1600 cars and to get to it you just take the seat out. the seat is just held in with friction and the belts are attached to the frame so that holds the seat in too as the belts are required to be SUPER tight
Yeah the tank is totally going behind the seat
There are some geometric changes you need to make to that chassis before you go too far. You will only regret not doing them now. Firstly the cockpit needs to be wider both down to the bottom (hip area) and also further forwards towards the steering wheel. Secondly, the steering column needs to mount underneath the cross beam you have directly in front of you, so that needs to go up and you need to sit lower. Think knees in line with your chest and steering column between your legs.
Just found this gem of a series. So frickin cool. Keep them coming :D
I want more, ASAP
I been watching him for years. He builds some ridiculous stuff. I love it.
Me too! The TH-cam algorithm is a funny mistress. Glad I found this channel, but why didn’t it show me it long ago?!
Go back and check out his 8 turbo mustang and his 3 turbo Honda or his turbo lawn mower..lol
Thanks for doing those Videos mate, appreciate the work you put in
Thanks sir!!
loving this series reminds me of youtube before all the clickbaity trash we have today. my only suggestion would be to widen the chassis even to avoid any future issues but i have been loving this so far. cant wait for part 5!
Instead of thickening the whole seat, try stiffening the seat with stringers or brackets. Fibreglass is not that stiff in bending (except if you make the seat way, way thicker) but if you add (composite or not) brackets you'll save loads of weight and material cost. Also you'd want to have a positive mould (called a plug) because the best surface finish has to be on the inside of the seat, so making a mould of the seat you have in clay for example and then using that as a mould/plug for your glass fibre would be ideal. Even better would be to do vacuum bagging, but that requires all kinds of different supplies. The easiest to use is prepreg, but you'll need an oven to cure it in. Good luck!
Yep, that’s exactly why it’s best to only tack the frame together when building something like this. That way It’s a lot easier to come back later and change things a bit if you need to. Nice job man, this thing is looking awesome already
Its been years since I loved a series as much as this one! Keep it coming! This is exactly what I love about youtube
LETS GO another part! love this series!
This makes me so happy
Use a grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut the fiberglass.
I just saw part 3 and then 10 minutes later part4 thanks man.
That's what I like to hear 😁
Loving the mini f 1, lol fyi tho, you can use fleece and resin to strengthen the seat and built from scratch. But for a first attempt at glass you guys did awesome. The he'll fox built would be awesome to see, sure its coming along nicely. You do great work man. Keep up the original ideas. Happy holidays to you and A.T.K
Have only recently stumbled across your channel. I am stoked that I've found another great channel to watch, can't wait to see this build completed - it's going to be awesome!
this series is so good
Doing my best 😁😁
Thought 2 years ago somebody needs to build an diy f1 car with a motorcycle engine! Man u are a legend
I've been waiting for this update since I found your videos the other day!! Keep up the great work buddy, you're living the dream right now
i love this series because it motivates me to get up and do stuff
Love how you widened the chassis. shows that you only take as much room as necessary. This thing is gonna look crazy
Awesome build so far! I would make a bend to the crossbar over your knees in the chassis, this way the steeringcolumn can be mounted from underneath and you’ll have more space for your legs. Keep the episodes coming!
The algorithm put this on my feed a few days ago and boy am I happy it did! Loving the content so far and have been itching for each new episode. Keep it up!
Just you and your wife trying random things in the garage, learning new stuff, thats awesome man. Looks like such a fun time. I know you're wayyyyy ahead on this series now but i just found you so i'll catch up fast.
happy holidays man, youre doing an excellent build, loving how its coming together
Thanks for your videos! Fun to follow:)
But I strongly suggest that you make the hip area and the area around the knees wider. Perhaps just bend the bars outwards so get a bit more rounded shape?
Make the front go up a bit more to ”lower” the seat so the steering axel goes underneath that bar.
Much for comfort but also a much better endresult. Will result in better shape for the body later on
Actually having a diff puts a lot of weight on the rear axle, wich will prevent the car from oversteering on quick steering inputs, making the weight transfer a lot easier
I must admit that between watching your and Two Stroke Stuffing channels make me want to build another project for the kids and I to thrash around in!!!
Absolutely love these videos honestly, best decision I have made in a long time clicking on part one of these. Was absolutely hooked soon as I seen the progression. Can’t wait for the next video keep up the hard work. What diameter pipe are you using and what’s the thickness please?
All the pipe is .120 wall and I'm using a combo of 1.25 and 1 inch
@@Boostedlifestyle awesome thanks very much I need to have ago at this. Would be a nice change from making custom woodburning stoves.
Absolutely love this build - it was good to see Gina get involved. I do believe that this build would be going a lot smoother if you had Tokyo there for moral support - there is a significant lack of trailer park boys qoutes. Awesome channel Kyle - G'day from Brisbane Australia 😊
Yeah I miss my Tokyo :(
Kyle and Genna y'all rock! Yeah if you can handle it then show us the other build! I would love to see it just means we see more of Kyle and Geena! Peace easy and get that v!
Loving the series! And I would have no problem following along with both builds at the same time..
As a side note, we got 55cm (22 inches) of snow on Sunday, and are expecting another 81cm (32 inches) tonight.
That's a ton of snow. It's usually too cold to snow here a lot
I always get excited when I see new videos from you! Keep making these videos man I really love your content
I really appreciate it 😁😁
@@Boostedlifestyle If you want to put a livery on the finished thing, hmu I’d love to design something🔥🔥
You technically made a plug for your new seat. Take what you have now, flip it over, and use the shiny side. Start by bracing the inside where you would sit good so it won't distort. Use some 1708 biaxle first then another layer of chop after and roll it out with rollers for fiberglass. Then add wood bracing. Glass that in. Flip it over to shiny side which is under side of what you have now. Gelcoat it and fair it out smooth and polish out to 1500 and wax the piss out of it. Now you have a mold to make the same exact seat every time for multiple. You can gelcoat the waxed part now and have a pre colored shiny seat, add your fiberglass chop matt, resin, biaxle layers and roll it out and you have a perfect part every time.
My fav most exciting build on TH-cam right now. one thing I would say to get some more arm room is make the side pods then the enforcement bars where your arms are you can take out to give your elbow more space. Idk how to word it and would love to help
Im not missing any episode of this, its an amazing proyect.
Love it and it's pretty awesome the learn as you go process. I use to fiberglass on boats and absolutely hate it, looks like you did a decent job. Lay the mat in a cross hatch as with a seat you'll want strength in many directions.
Make a spacer for the one side cv axle where it mounts to the diff. Then you can have equal length axles.
That's actually smart
@@Boostedlifestyle then the geometry will stay the same.
Found you by random and I’m loving the content already keep up the good work!
boy can't definitely wait for part 5! I'm sure it will be almost finished.
Looking good. Awesome to see people just diving into things and figuring them out. I love the learning process and would rather watch this than just cookie cutter bolt together stuff
For the seat... You could so something like EMT's use with mass pants. It's basically an air tight bean bag chair. You sit in it, suck out the air, and it conforms to your body. Bonus... you can then let air back in, set someone else in there amd suck the air out again, conforming perfectly to another driver. And you don't have to mess with expanding foam. just buy a bean bag and some heavy plastic bags to put the Styrofoam in. A regular AC vacuum pump would pull the air out effectively.
Packing tape is the material commonly used to create a mold. Cover the seat in packing tape and then cover it with a couple layers of mold release wax. The tape would hold to the seat so much better.
Quick tip, don't use saran wrap just get some clear tape and use it to cover the whole surface, cover it with releasing agent and fiberglass over it
Yeah the saran wrap was a bad idea it was lifting
You now have a negative mold for the seat. Install a release layer to the back of the seat and fiberglass it then you will have the final seat bucket. The underside of your mold is what you want to be sitting on, not the rough side you have now. Use bladed rollers to push out any air bubbles in the final layer.
I realize that just because I gave my opinion on the design it doesnt mean that is the reason he is doing it but it sure feels good to know that Kyle is accepting of our opinions and isnt afraid to implement them if they are good ideas.
Very nice. Just one note is that in modern formula cars your feet stais above your pelvis, and this is what alows you to have a steering weel in the correct height in front of your nose and more protection on the sides due to the height needet to cover the steering weel
Few heavy duty black bags.... low expention foam..... sit on bag, fill with foam, stay sitting till foam goes off
id suggest doing this to the bar going to the side right infront of the seat where you are going to mount the wheel, make the slope on the front nose longer and taller so there is more room for legs and the wheel, it would look more in proportion with the top frame part too
I like the new engine setup and that you left future you room to work on oiling issues. 😁😁
Great job molding the existing seat you have. Just need to reinforce the seat mold and sheet metal/skin the cockpit to support the seat.
You need PVA mold release to spray on the seat, let it dry and you can then fiberglass over the seat. Use tap water and a hose hose with a nozzle on it to separate the glass from the seat.
Using clear packing tape instead of the Saran wrap works well. Doesn’t move around so much.
****Hot tip for composites: instead of dealing with frustrating Saran wrap, use packing tape. Works great for quick jobs.
def wanna see the foxbody build as well, the more videos the better!!
The CrossKart is coming along good bro
should make a minimal sheetmetal support under the seat for mounting, and to fill the voids add some thin padding if possible (could also add a very small amount of comfort idk)
very nice f1 car, cant wait to see the final form
You need to vacuum bag the seat with additional layers. It'll remove anymore airpockets you get. Most model plane guys to it. They usually just take 2 plastic sheets and tape the edges and hook a vacuum up and gently push any trapped air to the vacuum.
These videos deserve wayyyy more views
Thanks and praise to the algorithm God for putting this video in my stream. Subscribed. Can't wait to see this thing rip. Nice build!
It finally did good 😁
@@Boostedlifestyle
🤣🤣🤣 right?
I love this!!!!every day i watch out for the new Video of the home made f1 car
The rule in Formula 1000 is that you draw a line from the top of the main roll hoop to the top of the front roll hoop (above your knees), and the driver's helmet has to be 2 inches below that. This was derived from, shall we say, real-world experimentation involving driver's heads and asphalt, so I consider it a minimum. I would recommend replacing the tube above the driver's knees with a curved tube, radius of only 18" or so. Then run the steering column under it. This will improve comfort and crash protection.
You are going to want more triangulation on the roll hoop and rear frame of the car. Besides crash safety, the aerodynamic load of the rear wing and the dynamic load of the suspension is substantial on any race car.
Great job making the top cockpit bars wider. I'm wondering why you didn't make the mid cockpit horizontal bars wider? You had the seat from the Sim that fit you but by making it narrower you aren't leaving room for any expandable foam cushion. It's going to kill your hips in cornering on the track! Widen the mid horizontal bars also to fit the sim seat you have and give some extra space. You need to remember that not only are you going to need room for foam cushion, but your fire/race suit as well.
I can't wait to see a finish car
Love it!
I've always wanted to build a hill-climb car. You are really inspiring me to just do it! :)
I think you should use bushings to mount the engine. I have followed several builds where the case has cracked from the different weight,loads,harmonics that the motorcycle engine experiences in a different chassis vs motorbike.
Yes to Fox body stuff NOW!!!! I'm really really loving the Formula build but I really wanna see the Fox and I'm impatient so I vote yes to intermingling.
this is starting to look cooler with every video iteration. I wonder what is your budget on this project. It would be interesting to know for the sake of comparing it to the actual budget that F1 teams have to develop their car.
Loving this build. Since you have checked off the mini-bike and soon this F-car, will a turbo drag snowmobile be next?? As a Canadian, I believe it's required by law.
I just hate the cold 🤣
Trim the fibreglass when it’s still green and not fully cured and when putting on the resin, use a ridged roller to remove the air.
if you put the cross differential down you generate more mechanical grip, like in race cars
Dude this thing is going to be so sick!!!!
Steering shaft from the engine to the diff mate love the vids
Can't wait to see it on track. Great series.
m8 i'm doing similar but i'm using alloy box section + nut & bolt strong chemical bonding and composite wrap & resin , i'm only 50kg 5ft 7'' aswel..i'm looking at a sub 200kg build full, chassis will only be 25 - 30kg..my hubs are kinda cheap and heavy their from a 150cc quad with built in drum brakes , 10'' trailer wheels 😂 (they was bargain price with stub axles included) with semi slick moped tyres / 10/50/70 . 👍🏻
Missed this channel
I love it!!! Cant wait to see it when its finished
Nice video! Im excitedly waiting the next part.
I want to see the hellstang as soon as possible.. Love your videos
Wow big respect following you a longer time now and just love what you doing keep going finish that F1 car !!!
Just a recommendation. What if you made the bar above your knees in more of a V chape with the point upwards to give your knees more room and it would give you a great place to mount the steering shaft
Use SMD Sunflash fiberglass resin. It only sets in uv light. So, you take it outside on a bright day and it will be hard in a couple seconds. Literally. Seconds. It takes more time the thicker it gets, but essentially a couple seconds for what you are doing.
Ohh I had no idea to be honest
@@Boostedlifestyle yup, no problem. That stuff is great. Will save a shit ton of time too
Do the sit with fiber carbon
Use the one you already have as a mold and so the carbon fiber one will be smaller
(the one you do is great is just an advice that i give to you)
greetings from Argentina
Jeez how many cars you want to make man
Looks good Kyle! Can't wait to see you take it to a track! Are you planning on making the whole body fibergalss or carbon? Id recommend industrial plastics and paints for your glass and kevlar and carbon needs, Always had reasonable prices. Its a bit of a drive, but if you are buying bulk then it will probably be worth it.
Don't forget that bike engines don't like going around corners straight up. If you look at Superfastmatts channel, you'll see how to avoid seizing the engine. From memory, I think he did a dry sump???
love this series, can't wait to see next episodes
I didn't see anyone mention it. But aluminum tape works great if you don't wanna ruin something with fiberglass.
Never imagined I'd get thirst trapped in a car video but here we are.
Can't wait untill it gets completed
10:25 ya... set up details on the hellfox would quash class position secrets.
I think I saw somewhere where they painted the mold area before putting the fiberglass down and the paint transferred to the fiberglass.
So glad I found ur channel and this series, keep it up bro it’s looking great❤
Loving this! Subbed.
Also, 10:30 Red rocket!🤣🤣🤣
amazing!! now you need to recast the other side for the correct fit and finish.
This units going to be a monster eh !!!
Congrats on the 200k brotha!!
Thank you 😍😍
My only concern is will the output shaft coming out the transmission be able to take the torsional load of 2 tires and the diff when launching seeing its only 1” diameter at best, either way its a cool build and i wish you the best with longevity
I've been busy, but I'm watching my backlog before the end of the year. Keep killing it, Kyle! Edit: I smoked a few bowls before watching this and lit the wrong end of a Marlboro. Caught it on the second puff. Don't sweat doing stupid shit on occasion. Look who your audience is.
It looks pretty nice
Yes!! Bring on the HellStang!!
Any thoughts on a transmission? I don't hear you mentioning it. How do you plan to connect from engine to differential? I mean besides the drive shaft
The engine has a transmission built into it. It's from a 1000cc street bike
@@instantninja1 thanks. I didn't realize how small that engine is. Must be there I just don't see it in the video.