If you use 3M Scotch #35 colored electrical tape it won’t get all sticky and gooey like black electrical tape does after a few years. You can find it at your big box hardware store and usually sells for about $5 a roll.
WD-40 is an old fisherman's favorite. Being originally from the far west coast I can tell you. Back in the day we would fill our herring up with WD and let that sweetheart roll. Salmon love it. They still do I imagine, though I can neither confirm or deny its current angling application. Awesome progress on this old machine. Very motivating. I am starting to believe I can fix one too!.
We never had rats chewing on the lacing and wires...... just kids beating the you know what out of the machines for 3plays @ 25 cents! Thanks for video.
I´ve been sitting here waiting and waiting and waiting for 24 hours. And finaly the sequel popped up. Thanks Ron! Now i´m gona enjoy efery singel second of the video, and learn more! 👍
I have a Tavel Time with the backglass flaking. Scary to think of spraying it and putting sarhan wrap on it. One of those things. One shot and thats it. I am very much looking forward to the next video on this!
Wish I could mash the like 👍 more than once!!! Good buddy lost his fuel pump on his truck. After they dropped the tank they found the wires into to pump chewed off. Fixed it, they did it again. Then he saw a trick, moth balls. He hung up done little bags (stockings) around the top of the tanks . Never happened again. Has to freshen the bags every few months. Paint on wire tape. Use it on my battery connectors. Solder that bearing maybe
I just picked up an Old Chicago and probably need to seal the blackglass. Looking forward to seeing how it comes out. (I'll probably watch other videos that you've done to look at the process). Looking forward to see it completed (I've heard that you were successful on it already).
@32:28 You had mentioned heat expansion and cooling to be the culprit for paint chipping but that would be more prominent where the light bulbs are if that was the case. Compare a Lichtenberg pattern in glass to the paint chips and you may find a similarity, I think it's static electricity . I'd bet that if you grounded the glass and chassis it would go a long way to prevent further damage.
.... but it is chipped more where the lamps are. You just think it's static electricity because I mentioned it isn't grounded. (You know, like your cell phone charger isn't grounded...)
It's becoming part of my daily routine to watch Ron fix the seemingly unfixable... Here the progress on the Rockola repair is going well, gripper mech fixed and now moved on to fault finding in the amplifier, only one channel is currently working. Any tips?
I can't remember how old yours is, but if it's solid state you can swap the pre-amp boards inside the amp. If the other channel now works, then you know your problem is on the pre amp board. also you need to swap the wiring from speaker to speaker to make sure all the speakers work... and pay attention to the capacitors they put on the speakers or in the lines, they use them as filters and sometimes they dry out and you lose that speaker's sound. Other than that, capacitors usually fix your issues unless you're blowing fuses.
if it is on freeplay (forever). You can just remove the coint counter and 3d print a freeplay wedge :) problem solved. Just like they do with the zeros :D
Hi Joe, just a thought but I was just wondering if you could use some light activated glue on the insulation damage to act as a kind of resin style insulation coating? I've never used light activated glue but if it set fast enough could work I would think. Love the channel btw, really interesting watching repairs on these old machines.
@@LyonsArcade No offence intended........... I just discovered self‑amalgamating stuff a while ago and while it is a pain to use I like the way it heals itself up.
The dohicky, (notice I am using the technical term for it), that you hammered back in place is called a "standoff". Said 'standoff' is "swaged", (aka press-fit), into the sheet metal plate. The proper term for swaging is actually "smushing". So what you did was used your hammer to smush the dohicky into the plate. Now personally I don't care if you use the proper terms or not, but we must be sensitive to the up-and-coming younger demographic that watches your videos. It is important that these young, impressionable minds learn to call things by their proper nomenclature. (I don't really know what last word I used meant but I got it out of one of them injun-ears books once, and it sounded cool, so I slapped it in there.) Seriously, I love watching your repair videos. As a 21 year precision sheet-metal journeyman/CNC programmer and 3D CAD designer, there is no thrill like getting an old EM machine running again, regardless of what it does. Thanks for sharing your work.
P.B. Blaster is really good and sometimes we just put oil on it. There's nothing wrong with using WD-40 to free stuck bolts though you just don't want to use it on anything you're going to leave it on that needs to move like a stepper unit or something. WD-40 is fine for freeing bolts.
you cant put it on a machine with wires like that it would take forever very impractical inside a box with so many wires, ask Ron how long it took to just check the wires and tie them up.
You said it was going to be free play and you aren't going to put the replay wheel back in, so why bother with the 0-9 unit? It is just for the match feature, which btw there is a jumper to turn it off.
Maybe the 0-9 unit is used for different things Charles than just the match unit. Have you looked at the schematics? The star unit on the roto-target relies on the 0-9 unit if you check out the schematics. Just relax and enjoy the videos, you don't have to look for reasons to tell me I'm doing it wrong. You missed a bunch of things I did wrong by the way! Might want to go back and re-watch it, I messed up all kinds of stuff....
Hi Joe, just a thought but I was just wondering if you could use some light activated glue on the insulation damage to act as a kind of resin style insulation coating? I've never used light activated glue but if it set fast enough could work I would think. Love the channel btw, really interesting watching repairs on these old machines.
Great explanation of how to save and fix the back glass art. I remember that particular game from back in my youth.
That's very cool, I love these ones with the cool backbox animation, they're a little bit 'prissy' but I like them a lot.
I really love how you fix any game from any time period keep up the great work! 👍🏻
I like all of them :) The more messed up , the better!
The back-glass tips were priceless. Thanks for putting this info out.
BTW, they do sell wrapping heat shrink but the stuff is too expensive to use.
Glad you enjoyed it, we're going to do an entire video on this backglass so you can see how it turns out if yours is messed up.
Carolina shenanigans. Gotta love it.
More soon :)
If you use 3M Scotch #35 colored electrical tape it won’t get all sticky and gooey like black electrical tape does after a few years. You can find it at your big box hardware store and usually sells for about $5 a roll.
Alright i'll try to find some
WD-40 is an old fisherman's favorite. Being originally from the far west coast I can tell you. Back in the day we would fill our herring up with WD and let that sweetheart roll. Salmon love it. They still do I imagine, though I can neither confirm or deny its current angling application. Awesome progress on this old machine. Very motivating. I am starting to believe I can fix one too!.
Awesome to see that you use flush cutters for zip ties!
I cut those suckers close :)
Really enjoyed this as always. Looking forward to the backglass video. 👍
Coming soon, hopefully it turns out alright!
saving those classics lets get it preserving history
We never had rats chewing on the lacing and wires...... just kids beating the you know what out of the machines for 3plays @ 25 cents! Thanks for video.
I´ve been sitting here
waiting and waiting and
waiting for 24 hours. And finaly the sequel popped up. Thanks Ron! Now i´m gona enjoy efery singel second of the video, and learn more! 👍
Only 20 hours left!
I have a Tavel Time with the backglass flaking. Scary to think of spraying it and putting sarhan wrap on it. One of those things. One shot and thats it. I am very much looking forward to the next video on this!
You are working hard my friend on that one😁👍
This one was pretty rough!
Great video Ronnie. See you on the next one.
Thanks Clint!
Wish I could mash the like 👍 more than once!!! Good buddy lost his fuel pump on his truck. After they dropped the tank they found the wires into to pump chewed off. Fixed it, they did it again. Then he saw a trick, moth balls. He hung up done little bags (stockings) around the top of the tanks . Never happened again. Has to freshen the bags every few months. Paint on wire tape. Use it on my battery connectors. Solder that bearing maybe
I'm going to have to get some of that paint on tape!
I just picked up an Old Chicago and probably need to seal the blackglass. Looking forward to seeing how it comes out. (I'll probably watch other videos that you've done to look at the process). Looking forward to see it completed (I've heard that you were successful on it already).
Round two! Fight! Wrong game I know! lol Keep at it! Great to watch you work through the machines!
We're gonna get it!
@@LyonsArcade I know you will!
My first time seeing a backglass flaking like this, most machines I've seen you do need playfield paint. Looks scary but I like your plan 🙂
We get them flaked like this all the time, you may not have seen them though we haven't done one like this for quite awhile :)
@32:28 You had mentioned heat expansion and cooling to be the culprit for paint chipping but that would be more prominent where the light bulbs are if that was the case. Compare a Lichtenberg pattern in glass to the paint chips and you may find a similarity, I think it's static electricity . I'd bet that if you grounded the glass and chassis it would go a long way to prevent further damage.
.... but it is chipped more where the lamps are. You just think it's static electricity because I mentioned it isn't grounded. (You know, like your cell phone charger isn't grounded...)
@@LyonsArcade no need to be offended, I have three decades of electrics repair and thought I'd chime in. I'll refrain from posting anything again.
It's becoming part of my daily routine to watch Ron fix the seemingly unfixable... Here the progress on the Rockola repair is going well, gripper mech fixed and now moved on to fault finding in the amplifier, only one channel is currently working. Any tips?
I can't remember how old yours is, but if it's solid state you can swap the pre-amp boards inside the amp. If the other channel now works, then you know your problem is on the pre amp board. also you need to swap the wiring from speaker to speaker to make sure all the speakers work... and pay attention to the capacitors they put on the speakers or in the lines, they use them as filters and sometimes they dry out and you lose that speaker's sound. Other than that, capacitors usually fix your issues unless you're blowing fuses.
@@LyonsArcade hey Ron, it's a RO 436, pre Amp board is inside Amp chassis and one of the first transistor ones, if i recall
if it is on freeplay (forever). You can just remove the coint counter and 3d print a freeplay wedge :) problem solved. Just like they do with the zeros :D
ha yeah that would actually work put something in the window, lol
Hi Joe, just a thought but I was just wondering if you could use some light activated glue on the insulation damage to act as a kind of resin style insulation coating? I've never used light activated glue but if it set fast enough could work I would think. Love the channel btw, really interesting watching repairs on these old machines.
What about self‑amalgamating tape around damaged wires?
Unlike electrical tape that stuff will never fall off again.
I agree, this tape will fall off, you want to come do it for me or just give me backhanded complaints?
@@LyonsArcade No offence intended........... I just discovered self‑amalgamating stuff a while ago and while it is a pain to use I like the way it heals itself up.
The dohicky, (notice I am using the technical term for it), that you hammered back in place is called a "standoff". Said 'standoff' is "swaged", (aka press-fit), into the sheet metal plate. The proper term for swaging is actually "smushing". So what you did was used your hammer to smush the dohicky into the plate.
Now personally I don't care if you use the proper terms or not, but we must be sensitive to the up-and-coming younger demographic that watches your videos. It is important that these young, impressionable minds learn to call things by their proper nomenclature. (I don't really know what last word I used meant but I got it out of one of them injun-ears books once, and it sounded cool, so I slapped it in there.)
Seriously, I love watching your repair videos. As a 21 year precision sheet-metal journeyman/CNC programmer and 3D CAD designer, there is no thrill like getting an old EM machine running again, regardless of what it does. Thanks for sharing your work.
What do you use instead of WD-40 ?
To free loose stuck bolts ?
P.B. Blaster is really good and sometimes we just put oil on it. There's nothing wrong with using WD-40 to free stuck bolts though you just don't want to use it on anything you're going to leave it on that needs to move like a stepper unit or something. WD-40 is fine for freeing bolts.
@@LyonsArcade thanks for the advice
The. Mouse was mousin around.
Yup little sucker got in everything!
Instead of electrical tape, try liquid electrical tape. Seriously it exists, just paint the stuff on. Just needs an amount of time to dry and cure.
you cant put it on a machine with wires like that it would take forever very impractical inside a box with so many wires, ask Ron how long it took to just check the wires and tie them up.
Did you replace or repair that busted Jones Plug? Did I miss it in this video?
You said it was going to be free play and you aren't going to put the replay wheel back in, so why bother with the 0-9 unit? It is just for the match feature, which btw there is a jumper to turn it off.
Maybe the 0-9 unit is used for different things Charles than just the match unit. Have you looked at the schematics? The star unit on the roto-target relies on the 0-9 unit if you check out the schematics.
Just relax and enjoy the videos, you don't have to look for reasons to tell me I'm doing it wrong. You missed a bunch of things I did wrong by the way! Might want to go back and re-watch it, I messed up all kinds of stuff....
Ron, I'm not telling you were wrong, just curious why. I hope there is footage on the star unit, it sounds very interesting!
WD-40 is bad it gums everything up, especially in clocks.
It can clean pretty good but if you leave it on anything that moves you'll regret it!
no.
Joe have you seen the Baby Pac-Man video game Pinball Machine
We did that video and we also have one in storage we're going to be fixing (eventually)
Pesky varmints !
We run into this issue often, lol
andymouse123 better a deadmau5 than a wax eating rat i think 👍
A poet? Do your feet show it? Are they Longfellow's?
Well that only applies if your favorite poet was Longfellow :)
Ron have you ever came across and Baby Pac-Man arcade pinball machine
We have! Here's a video we did on it : th-cam.com/video/vP1mOfBl1UU/w-d-xo.html
@@LyonsArcade ok i see
could be asbestos.
Hi Joe, just a thought but I was just wondering if you could use some light activated glue on the insulation damage to act as a kind of resin style insulation coating? I've never used light activated glue but if it set fast enough could work I would think. Love the channel btw, really interesting watching repairs on these old machines.