First of all, I want to say that I have great respect for what you do. You're preserving a piece of history that would probably otherwise end up in a landfill. There's already enough E-waste without adding to it. Secondly, this is the kind of video I like. It's both entertaining and informative. I don't think I'll ever be in a position to restore a classic pinball machine backglass, but if I ever do, I'm reasonably sure I wouldn't totally screw it up. I've had a good teacher. ;^)
Thanks SpearM75503 we appreciate the nice words! Glad you enjoy it, we're trying to help people realize it's not that hard to get them back up and going :) See you on the next video!
Looking good Ron! It wasn't until you turned out the lights and all of the non-lit artwork disappeared that it was obvious the guy with the flower is looking up at the beauty. That's a subtle but VERY cool detail in this backglass
I got some tips, instead of water based acrylic's, use enamels and a small brush, they look a lot better and its pretty easy to find near enough exact matches, the paint flows much smoother so you get much neater lines and edges. Start with black as Joe says, to see what you are doing, place it on a glass table with a very bright light underneath, a spotlight is even better, just aim it at the area you are working on.. the opaque parts are a piece of cake you can't go wrong once you got your black edges down. the translucent parts are hard, but using oil enamels diluted down with white spirit you can make a translucent paint. you then have to play with it, moving the paint around with the bright light shining underneath so you can see how translucent each part is, you move the paint around, so its thick and thin in different places that require thick or thin, you continue to do this until it looks right, that's when you stop and let it dry. probably the hardest part, the translucent white is best touched up with a chalk paint in the areas where its missing, then painted all over with a diluted white enamel.
@@LyonsArcade I forgot another important tip, pull the glass out of some small picture frames, wrap the ceran wrap or whatever you call it in the US tightly around the pieces of glass, then use those with heavy weights on top to get super smooth finish when it dries and you remove the wrap.
I just finished restoring mine tonight (search on pinside for Big Chief) and watching this makes me want to go out and get another project pin. Love watching your videos. They got me into this hobby. I grabbed some stuff on amazon with your link as a thank you for all the good work (and because I needed things).
I've been enjoying your videos with my coffee on big screen since I'm currently working on my Williams Toledo that I've had for 30 years and neglected for the past 11 years. Like others, I came here to comment on the Saran wrap. Many good ideas, I was thinking acetate sheets like used in overhead projectors also.
The Burgundy would be nice for the back box to be painted and black stripes maybe. The game sides white with black and burgundy lines would look nice. It would fit the theme of the game.
I love how you treat these games of the piece of art because they truly are and I really appreciate your Channel. I love watching these games being restored to their original condition.
Get or build a light table to use while touching up back glass for pinball machines. It should make things easier. Ought to cut down the need to flip the glass over so much. A sheet of white plexiglass with a shop light underneath would work in a pinch.
Ronnie, I had know idea how you were going to be able to match the paint where the switch box was but it looks amazing. Another great job! I’ll be buying some triple thick from you Amazon link. Can’t wait for the next one.
Great video. I know for time you weren't able to show spraying on the Triple Thick. I was wondering, on my Old Chicago, it doesn't really have any flaking, but I think I should seal it with the Triple Thick. Do you just spray it on the parts that have perfect paint? Do you have to do the plastic wrap when the paint isn't lifting? Great cabinet work. Thanks for showing the process of painting.
Yes you spray it on everything and it will keep it from lifting, and then on the parts that are lifting you use the plastic wrap to lay them back down. Basically it's so you can push the paint into the clearcoat like glue, but it won't stick to your hand because of the saran wrap. You don't need it if the paint is still flat.
Hey Ron. Have you tried to use wax paper instead of the Saran Wrap? I would think that would leave you a nice flat surface and it wouldn’t stick either.
I was going to suggest shirt box plastic. Probably similar stuff. The end result was damn good either way but I'd be interested if a type of mylar made it an easier job.
hi there! love your channel! Have you thought about silicone nonstick baking sheets to use when you are pressing down with the nintendo carts? I find more than a few uses for those when I am restorting games.
How would a mirror work? You paint from the backside of the glass and see the result from the other side trouht the mirror. Regards Stig Österberg (From Dalsbruk in Finland)
Nice Save It's looking like a worn but very useable machine just the way I like to see them over restoring kind of kills the overall charm of these old machines. It will live on and make someone very happy.
Maybe a dumb question, but instead of taping things off would it be possible to use a piece of laminated paper to just sort of cover the hole? Or would that not work? Im just curious, dont really know much about the process but the idea came to mind
Hey Ron! Hope all is well. I have a question about an old Sharpshooter pinball machine. Buddy has one for sale, said it worked last time it was played (years ago) everything is in good shape, wants $375. First is it worth it, 2nd how do I ship it? I’ll pick it up, just wondering how I should haul it? Apart? Together? Thanks! And thanks for the great videos!! Got me hoping it’s not working so I can fix it! Lol!!!
I would buy it at that price. Working or not. As for transportation, EMs and old solid state need to have the heads removed. Anything where the head hinges can be moved together. Place s blanket in between the head and the glass/rails and wrap a ratchet strap around it. For all machines remove legs and balls. And remove anything loose inside the body like manuals/extra parts.
It depends on your vehicle, if it's in an SUV or something you can take the head off usually (on an EM) and put it in, and take the legs off the body to slide it in. The head unplugs and has a couple bolts holding it on, and all the legs have two bolts on them. If you've got a truck you can leave the head on and take the legs off, just sit it on it's bottom in the bed, nothing to it :)
I think the "R" in masquerade needs paint. I know you said you didn't want to do the translucent areas. My eyes are drawn to that "R". Also the bottom cabinet looks good now. The top part needs more paint in my opinion. The bare wood stands out too much. It definitely looks a lot better regardless though.
If I repaint the R Ashley, you will then see a much darker R everytime you look at it and your mind will think "Well they didn't do a very good job painting that in"... right now, your mind is thinking "the R has faded over the years." There's no way to paint it that you wouldn't be able to notice, because the light shines through it and as soon as you put paint on it it won't light up the same as the rest.
@@LyonsArcade I guess it's a matter of personal preference. Personally I think a slightly different color would look better than no color at all. You did the guy's chin and it was a different color, but it wasn't bad. I thought it looked fine. True the R is bigger. In the end it's up to whoever ends up owning it to decide. lol
We're still working on it, we're trying to get a little farther along before we upload anything. We'll have... GROCERY STORE videos soon though (we are working on an old Grocery Store too)
I think the crazing and cracking adds character to it.
I feel the same way, doesn't bother me at all.
It's always good seeing a classic pinball machine being restored. :)
Thanks Will!
First of all, I want to say that I have great respect for what you do. You're preserving a piece of history that would probably otherwise end up in a landfill. There's already enough E-waste without adding to it. Secondly, this is the kind of video I like. It's both entertaining and informative. I don't think I'll ever be in a position to restore a classic pinball machine backglass, but if I ever do, I'm reasonably sure I wouldn't totally screw it up. I've had a good teacher. ;^)
Thanks SpearM75503 we appreciate the nice words! Glad you enjoy it, we're trying to help people realize it's not that hard to get them back up and going :) See you on the next video!
Looking good Ron! It wasn't until you turned out the lights and all of the non-lit artwork disappeared that it was obvious the guy with the flower is looking up at the beauty. That's a subtle but VERY cool detail in this backglass
These people knew what they were doing when they designed these things, the art is old fashioned but very well done...
If i had one that backglass resto,i would be very pleased with myself !!! Great job guys...shes alive.....Alive !!
She's getting there :) Thanks for watching Saskia!
that glass looks leagues better than it used too. real top tier work.
Thanks Kosmos we appreciate you watching!
I got some tips, instead of water based acrylic's, use enamels and a small brush, they look a lot better and its pretty easy to find near enough exact matches, the paint flows much smoother so you get much neater lines and edges. Start with black as Joe says, to see what you are doing, place it on a glass table with a very bright light underneath, a spotlight is even better, just aim it at the area you are working on..
the opaque parts are a piece of cake you can't go wrong once you got your black edges down.
the translucent parts are hard, but using oil enamels diluted down with white spirit you can make a translucent paint.
you then have to play with it, moving the paint around with the bright light shining underneath so you can see how translucent each part is, you move the paint around, so its thick and thin in different places that require thick or thin, you continue to do this until it looks right, that's when you stop and let it dry.
probably the hardest part, the translucent white is best touched up with a chalk paint in the areas where its missing, then painted all over with a diluted white enamel.
Thanks!
@@LyonsArcade I forgot another important tip, pull the glass out of some small picture frames, wrap the ceran wrap or whatever you call it in the US tightly around the pieces of glass, then use those with heavy weights on top to get super smooth finish when it dries and you remove the wrap.
You're right. One of your best skills artistically is matching colors / patterns. It's not perfect but it's pretty dang good!
You're basically just trying to get it where it's not as noticeable unless people think to look for it, most people don't.
She's really coming back to life now. The playfield looks great and now the back-glass is looking good.
I love seeing these classics brought back.
Thanks Brendan, we appreciate you hanging out with us and watching!
I just finished restoring mine tonight (search on pinside for Big Chief) and watching this makes me want to go out and get another project pin. Love watching your videos. They got me into this hobby. I grabbed some stuff on amazon with your link as a thank you for all the good work (and because I needed things).
That Big Chief looks amazing. Im new to the hobby but boy is it addictive. Trying to start slow and not have a big project
Thanks Robert we appreciate that! I'm gonna go find your Big Chief...
I've been enjoying your videos with my coffee on big screen since I'm currently working on my Williams Toledo that I've had for 30 years and neglected for the past 11 years. Like others, I came here to comment on the Saran wrap. Many good ideas, I was thinking acetate sheets like used in overhead projectors also.
Thank you MJMTrains we appreciate you watching, we'll have to try some of that sheeting!
That game is fairly intricate for being almost 50 yrs old.
It has a lot going on for sure!
The entire time I thought the dude with the flower (bottom right) had a white goatee. Didn't realise his chin was missing :D
Poor guy needed plastic surgery
@@LyonsArcade in this case acrylic surgery Lol
The Burgundy would be nice for the back box to be painted and black stripes maybe. The game sides white with black and burgundy lines would look nice.
It would fit the theme of the game.
Great work and excellent show. Thank-You very much.
Thanks 007!
Great job on the back glass restore Ron!
Thanks TCB!
'Saran wrap' is known as 'Cling Film' here in the UK - I'm surprised that it didn't adhere to the paint!
Great video as always
i wonder why that foil has a different name everywhere, here it is called fresh keep foil
Somebody probably invented it somewhere and then they ripped it off all over the rest of the world, lol
@@LyonsArcade indeed, so that is a wrap then.
When I was in Australia years ago it was called glad wrap
Wow, the backglass and cabinet came out great Ron! Great points about not drawing the eye with obvious missing or bad color- like camouflage 😁
Thanks Jason we appreciate the kind words, we'll see you on the next one!
I love how you treat these games of the piece of art because they truly are and I really appreciate your Channel. I love watching these games being restored to their original condition.
Thanks Shane, we appreciate you hanging out with us and watching along :)
Looks good Ron. I very good playable game. You paint as well as I do.
Thanks!
I thought that backglass would never look right again, it was in some rough shape. Not a bad touch up job at all
Thanks James, we thought it came out alright too :)
Very nice 👍👌😊👍
Thanks!
Thank you Sir, for sharing this process its greatly appreciated!
Thanks Spider we appreciate you!
You are a master craftsman
Thank you Masato that's very nice of you to say.
Do you think tin foil would make the clear coat more smooth?
Get or build a light table to use while touching up back glass for pinball machines. It should make things easier. Ought to cut down the need to flip the glass over so much. A sheet of white plexiglass with a shop light underneath would work in a pinch.
Great job but I had conniptions every time you rotated the glass! : O
We made it through it unscathed :)
I guess keeping with the original color for the sides and back is the best
I'm not sure that it was worth it, but I'm certainly glad that there are people like you who care enough to do it.
great video ! better than what it was
Thanks!
Great work
Ronnie, I had know idea how you were going to be able to match the paint where the switch box was but it looks amazing. Another great job! I’ll be buying some triple thick from you Amazon link. Can’t wait for the next one.
Thanks Clint, we thought it turned out pretty good ourselves :) See you on the next video!
Just a thought if you were to wrap the foil around the nintendo game very tightly, you might be able to get it with less wrinkles.
I might have to try that sometime....
You could also try something flatter like wax paper.
did you ever think of creating a light table to place that glass face down on to see the image as you paint?
I haven't really gave it much thought but that might work better, thanks for watching Mike!
And now for all the money!
You know it!
Great video. I know for time you weren't able to show spraying on the Triple Thick. I was wondering, on my Old Chicago, it doesn't really have any flaking, but I think I should seal it with the Triple Thick. Do you just spray it on the parts that have perfect paint? Do you have to do the plastic wrap when the paint isn't lifting? Great cabinet work. Thanks for showing the process of painting.
Yes you spray it on everything and it will keep it from lifting, and then on the parts that are lifting you use the plastic wrap to lay them back down. Basically it's so you can push the paint into the clearcoat like glue, but it won't stick to your hand because of the saran wrap. You don't need it if the paint is still flat.
@@LyonsArcade You're the best!
Hey Ron. Have you tried to use wax paper instead of the Saran Wrap? I would think that would leave you a nice flat surface and it wouldn’t stick either.
I've never tried it!
Maybe instead of saran wrap maybe use an overhead transparency. It's going to remain perfectly flat and you wont' have that wavy texture that way.
I was going to suggest shirt box plastic. Probably similar stuff. The end result was damn good either way but I'd be interested if a type of mylar made it an easier job.
I thumbed the thumbs up button.
Thanks Stevie!
hi there! love your channel! Have you thought about silicone nonstick baking sheets to use when you are pressing down with the nintendo carts? I find more than a few uses for those when I am restorting games.
Thanks Ellrick, I'll give that a try!
Masked Beauty liked the result, and so did I!
Thanks Fernando, we appreciate you hanging out with us man!
How would a mirror work? You paint from the backside of the glass and see the result from the other side trouht the mirror. Regards Stig Österberg (From Dalsbruk in Finland)
That would probably work fine, it'd make it a lot easier if we rigged up a way to hold the glass upright in place while we painted it.
Was there a Sonic game in the background? Lol. Kept hearing Sonic spinning and getting rings.
Yes, there was!
Nice Save It's looking like a worn but very useable machine just the way I like to see them over restoring kind of
kills the overall charm of these old machines. It will live on and make someone very happy.
I agree 100% Nick, thank you for watching!
Is there any way to add a clearcoat to hold that paint together?
That's what I did in the video...
Maybe a dumb question, but instead of taping things off would it be possible to use a piece of laminated paper to just sort of cover the hole? Or would that not work? Im just curious, dont really know much about the process but the idea came to mind
yes sometimes I just lay some paper on it if i'm going to spray it, that would work just fine.... thank you for watching Laughtrack2!
Wrap the game cartridge first! You can pull it tight and get rid of the winkles.
OK I'll try harder next time
@@LyonsArcade Just trying to help.
Hey Ron! Hope all is well. I have a question about an old Sharpshooter pinball machine. Buddy has one for sale, said it worked last time it was played (years ago) everything is in good shape, wants $375. First is it worth it, 2nd how do I ship it? I’ll pick it up, just wondering how I should haul it? Apart? Together? Thanks! And thanks for the great videos!! Got me hoping it’s not working so I can fix it! Lol!!!
I would buy it at that price. Working or not. As for transportation, EMs and old solid state need to have the heads removed. Anything where the head hinges can be moved together. Place s blanket in between the head and the glass/rails and wrap a ratchet strap around it. For all machines remove legs and balls. And remove anything loose inside the body like manuals/extra parts.
Is that jubilee a different one?
You did a repair on a jubilee a few months back?
Or am I confused on the timeline.
This is a different one, they pop up all over the place :)
how hard is it to transport a pinball machine? thinking of picking one up from you guys and driving back to nj with it.
It depends on your vehicle, if it's in an SUV or something you can take the head off usually (on an EM) and put it in, and take the legs off the body to slide it in. The head unplugs and has a couple bolts holding it on, and all the legs have two bolts on them. If you've got a truck you can leave the head on and take the legs off, just sit it on it's bottom in the bed, nothing to it :)
@@LyonsArcade I have a truck. thanks for the info
Looking good! But you didn't say "I am not an artist" one time! I kid you about that because I think you are an artist.
I think it turned out alright myself!
I think the "R" in masquerade needs paint. I know you said you didn't want to do the translucent areas. My eyes are drawn to that "R". Also the bottom cabinet looks good now. The top part needs more paint in my opinion. The bare wood stands out too much. It definitely looks a lot better regardless though.
Yeah the R is triggerin, but the rest looks pretty decent now in comparisin to the start !
@@crackone2three that's for sure. lol
If I repaint the R Ashley, you will then see a much darker R everytime you look at it and your mind will think "Well they didn't do a very good job painting that in"... right now, your mind is thinking "the R has faded over the years."
There's no way to paint it that you wouldn't be able to notice, because the light shines through it and as soon as you put paint on it it won't light up the same as the rest.
@@LyonsArcade I guess it's a matter of personal preference. Personally I think a slightly different color would look better than no color at all. You did the guy's chin and it was a different color, but it wasn't bad. I thought it looked fine. True the R is bigger. In the end it's up to whoever ends up owning it to decide. lol
@@LyonsArcade It is how it is people ! :D
sounds like someone is playing sonic. lol
We usually have a Sega hooked up in here for customers....
I have not seen any jailhouse videos
We're still working on it, we're trying to get a little farther along before we upload anything. We'll have... GROCERY STORE videos soon though (we are working on an old Grocery Store too)
Love it, but these 60’s machines are creepy. Like an old porcelain doll. Can’t do it.
First!
Yes you were!
@@LyonsArcade haha love your videos
Doot Doot doot
I'm not sure that it was worth it, but I'm certainly glad that there are people like you who care enough to do it.
Thanks Richard, we appreciate you watching along with us as we do!