I like things like this - it might seem like nonsense to some, but these lights are so wasteful and a lot of people throw them away every year to get new ones the next year. Thanks for giving something another life :)
I would guess the LEDs work both ways because they are wired up alternatively, and the controller is alternating the voltages on the lines, so that way you get the effect where alternate bulbs light on and then off( when the other half are on)
Yeah, the light groupings have the blue and white LEDs in parallel, but they are reversed so the blue cathodes are attached to the white anodes, and vice versa. Applying voltage to the white anode side, and ground to the white cathode, will light up only the white lights because they will be forward biased, while the blue will be reverse biased. Flip-flopping the voltages slowly gets the twinkling effect. Since both LED colors can't be on at the same time, the fading effect only applies to one color at a time.
The controller is switching polarity at a high frequency. Polarity in one direction will light the white LEDs and polarity in the other direction will light the blue LEDs. It's just happening faster than the human eye can detect. If you take a white led and place it in circuit it will flash with the white led however, spin the led around and it will flash with the blue LEDs. On steady, it will make the led light no matter which way it's connected. Merry xmas everyone!!!
Everytime I see its possibly solved quickly, I check how much time is left. When I see we're 1/4th the way through I know we're going in deeper. Love trying to fix stuffs. Keep it coming Vince!
as the pack uses only 4.5 volts, they can't be in series think they are multiplexed part of the reason for swappung the polarity is to reduce galvanic corrosion - but like others have said - ask the bearded wonder that is - Big Clive. Fantastic fella (if you fancy a laugh, search out his "fanny flambeau" video - id been watching him fr time ans was taking him totally seriously until almost the end lol. Hope yyou had a great christmas and heres to a very happy new year
Yep, that is my time consuming job every year... checking the lights. Well Done on the diagnosis and repair. Happy Christmas and a Safe, Healthy and Happy New Years! 🎄🎅🏻🍾🎉
At 19:20 - To back probe wires one of the old time techs taught me to use needles like sewing needles and such depending on the size of wire you need to probe. That way you just leave a little tiny hole. That said if this is going outside may be best to cut it and redo with some waterproof shrink. Hope that helps!
Thank you Sir! Greatly appreciated troubleshooting that fault. I remember those incandescent ones with a red tipped bulb that was used for the flasher effects! I could not stand the parallel wired ones vs the ones in series as when a parallel bulb went out the entire string of lights went out and if you had multiple burnt bulbs forget about it lol!
Maybe the shorted LEDs are a little bit warmer than the others? I'm not sure if this can be seen using your thermal camera but would be interesting to check.
I have solar LEDs :) They charge up during the day, then turn on at about 7.30pm and off again at about 5am. But, Christmas in Australia is during the summer time, so it works perfectly.
Right I work with this lights all year long. The ones you have are not really for door door use Plus once light goes out in a sequence then until the last bulb so you need to find the bulb that has fault...simple....I working these each day of the year
I had a similar fault this year but that string only has 2 sections and every LED in a section is connected together in series. One section has yellow and red LEDs, the other has green and blue ones. This second section got faulty after a few hours of operation. Most LEDs were slightly lit but one which was completely dead. I replaced it with a spare (I have a donor string for this) but after a few hours another green LED died. I figured out that different colour LEDs requires different ammount of current. Blues requires much more than greens. They tuned the current output from the flasher unit for the blues which was too much for the greens so they failed. So I've added a small resistor into the circuit. The blues are a bit dull but the greens work just fine and no more dead LEDs so far. So if you spot a LED string with mixed colours in one section, don't buy it! You'll run into trouble.
The circuit is controlled with and "H-bridge" transistors driver and all the white LEDs are connected in paralell and opposite polarity to the blue LEDs, but each section is separated with a diode or ressistor from anothers so if one led short - kill only this section. The H-bridge can reverse polarity of the 2 lines so that plus and minus are reversed. That is a clever desingn used in so called "Charlie plexing" (different wireing method for multiplexing) dynamic LED displays to minimise the number of control lines. The H-bridge is also common driver for DC motors, with it you can reverse direction of the motor or make brake or PWM controll of the speed or both when needed and controlled by MCU. You could put that clue inside heatshrink tubes before you heat them so when they do the glue will spit a bit and seal tide the wires ;) At 33:00 on the right side where you put your finger you can clearly see the 4 transistors "H-bridge driver". You could simply cut all the nessesery heatshrinks instead cuting the wires but yes the job was done!
Rather than a short I think the faulty led is putting a huge resistance on the circuit stopping the current passing through. There is about 1000 ohm resitance in the circuit which stops current flowing and thus all the lights in that circuit will go out. Usually each led would only put a small amount of resitance in the circuit. Too small to be measured by your multimeter it would seem. My guess is with enough voltage you could get them to light up with faulty led in situ. LEDs are supposed to last for ages. In my experience they don't. The led Spot lights last about 2 years before they get really dim and one of 2 led strip lights has also failed on me.
10-15 years ago LED lightning lifetime was often quoted as 100 000 hours, then reduced to 50 000, 30 000 and now usually 10 000 to 15 000. hours. And still the LED driver dies before that. Especially capacitors in the bottom of light bulbs are running very hot and usually the fault of failed LED bulbs
Thank you for the video. Very interesting including all the comments. I've been trying to fix some very expensive pro lights I bought from Christmas direct which claimed on their site to be ip65 but they have now told me that was a mistake and they are ip44 with no resin so they rusted just like cheap ones! They wont replace them! I have a cheap set which have been up for 2 years now and are still working. I squirted waxoyl up each of the 1200 leds. Very laborious but seems to work. Where do you get the replacement LEDs from? I bought some lumify ones some years ago and they were resin encapsulated so didnt rust.
I think the smaller sections that went out when one or more LEDs were defective, are wired in series and the sections are wired in parallel. Those light strings probably need the in series section to generate the right voltage drop across the diodes, so that when one or more diodes are defective, the rest wont get a too high voltage and will burn out as well. So the light string has several voltage drop sections to get the right voltage drop in every section. And yep, the controller sends DC in alternate directions to either turn the white or the blue LEDs on, which are wired in oposite polarities and other kind of neat effects. Yay for electronics! Boo for poor chinese weatherproofing :D Merry Christmas!
Who knew Christmas lights could be so complicated, there was a time when it was a case of replacing the faulty lamp as they were only in series, wiring in series parallel has its advantages though, but comes a little confusing when fault finding.
Basically there are two wires and the leds are connected such that if one polarity is applied white leds light up and if other polarity then blue light up to light both we have to constantly change polarity at very fast rate that's why there are two wires only from the box
It's probably how it makes them light up differently with just 2 wires comming out of the battery pack. It must be switching positive and negative in the wires. Wiring up an led backwards can cause it to short and that's probably what happened to those that are faulty. They were less tolerant to inverted polarity and bang :)
i sometimes use needles to pinch through the isolation so you don't have to cut it. If you measure the voltage across each led the faulty one should have a deviating value
Nice video Vince. I thought at first you had the same set of lights as me. Mine are very similar but 6V not 4.5v like yours. The other differences are that they have only two wires all the way and that I have just the green leds working. Red, blue and yellow out. Does your brother have any views on mine? Thanks John
Are those lights rated for outside use as there is nothing to stop water getting into the solder joints by the LEDs? I would have thought something like a resin filled joint would be a more permanent solution for usage outside.
Chinese production rule nr 1. Time is money. You can´t spend time on anything in production. Resin is way to time consuming if you want to sell dirt cheap.
🐨 I suspect the power rails if not just a crude Generated AC, may be a controlled wave form essentially "Frequency Modulated" AKA "FM" ergo because LED's would work on both AC and DC but with DC they must be connected the right way around to emit light, whilst if they are on an AC supply, it don't matter which way around they are connected, unless there is a parallel pair where one or more matching sets of LED's are connected vice Vs in order to reduce noticeable strobing 50Hz~60Hz opposed to a less noticeable 100~120Hz, And having said that there is another configuration which I think applies here where a positive Polarised DC is pulsed via a programmed sequence and at the same time an opposite polarised Negative DC is pulsed to another sequence "all controlled by a cheap 50p or 50cents Microprocessor" therefore outputting a lot more different lighting sequences.. Long story short an Oscilloscope will sort it all out. As for repairing them though I think I may try your method next time over my method which BTW cost me $14.99 or were they $9.99 it's been been a while so I forget, oh and yeah I guess it cost us some space in our local land fill for the broken set.. 😳
yes electronics is basically illimination, so yes what you were doing is right by going from the point of working to the point of end of the failure, and then halfing the area down to pin point the area affected.
The reason the LEDs work both ways is because those are controlled by switching polarity between to make it switch between white and blue and when both is lit it just switches super fast you can see it if it's just on one of the colors it's actually brighter
Normally they have a resistor in parallel with each light, so that if one happens to fail, the current will still pass through the resistor. Maybe they didn't bother this time, because LEDs are supposed to last for a very long time.
The faulty led would draw more current and should be able to feel the heat from the faulty led , so when the led are all static (on), but the current could be to low to feel it , never tried it this way
So, it seems, this was a xmas lights string with several sections of parallel LEDs. These sections are wired in series, because other sections kept on going when a section was shorted. So, the PSU/FX box is generating AC in various frequencies / patterns. The blues and the whites are connected in opposite polarities, so they can be controlled separately. There's only 4.5V worth of batteries, yet, there are series connected LEDs. So the opposite side of the PCB probably has an inductor, for boosting the voltage. The fixing is pointless. The LEDs are constructed in a way that they'll wick up water. Next year, I guarantee you, again, several sections will be out. Buy a new one. Take the time to properly waterproof every LED before first use. Or buy a new one every few years. But even that won't work for long. Usually, LEDs fail open. Short-circuits are rare. Must be because of the AC, I guess. Anyway, no matter how much you waterproof the set, if the LEDs themselves fail into short-circuit, then again, pointless. Anyway, very cute to see you fixing a junk LED string. Could be a bit more interesting: you really should measure the voltages that the PSU/FX box is putting out, in DC mode on slow patterns, in AC mode when both colours seem to be lit. And of course, next time, reveal the back of the PCB in there.
Rather than just trying, get some knowledge by watching BigCliveDotCom and understand the differences between types of cheap Christmas lights. Your subscribers are fighting in the comments section of Hugh Jeffreys's videos about how "knowledgeable" you have become over years of doing this..
I've had several lots of solar powered garden light strings & you're lucky if they even last for one season, sometimes the LEDs went rusty so fast they would actually fall off the wires on their own!
Hi, love ur video. I have same led xmas led setup except that mine is solar powered. It got damaged after a typhoon here in Guam. It is cut in different sections and some bulbs are missing. I see urs has 2 wires going in and out and the 3rd wire goes to the ends. How do the wires go to a bulb? Does polarity matter? What about the ends are they terminated with the 3 wires crossed? What if a bulb is missing do I connect the 4 wires (2 in and 2 out)? I am thinking they will short so I guess just leave them unconnected. Thanks 🙏
Wouldn't the one wire be the positive? It runs all the way along. Each section would have a led(s) with a resistor to cap the voltage. The one you measured with 220ohm resistance would of made me strip all the heat shrink from it and explore further. I'm not being negative about the video. But watching someone who earns their living from repair videos, and the amount of fumbling about you did is quite annoying. Do yourself a favour. Bit of research before hand. Bigclive is a good place to start.
![POLYCAT - ข้อความรูปยิ้ม [Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/lBhIgPGCgbI/mqdefault.jpg)
I like things like this - it might seem like nonsense to some, but these lights are so wasteful and a lot of people throw them away every year to get new ones the next year. Thanks for giving something another life :)
Another satisfying bit of fault finding! Merry Christmas 🎅
Cheers Steve. Merry Christmas to you too mate :-)
I would guess the LEDs work both ways because they are wired up alternatively, and the controller is alternating the voltages on the lines, so that way you get the effect where alternate bulbs light on and then off( when the other half are on)
And i would guess that it is series sequences of parallel bulbs, rather than the other way.
Yeah, the light groupings have the blue and white LEDs in parallel, but they are reversed so the blue cathodes are attached to the white anodes, and vice versa. Applying voltage to the white anode side, and ground to the white cathode, will light up only the white lights because they will be forward biased, while the blue will be reverse biased. Flip-flopping the voltages slowly gets the twinkling effect. Since both LED colors can't be on at the same time, the fading effect only applies to one color at a time.
Thank you :-)
The controller is switching polarity at a high frequency. Polarity in one direction will light the white LEDs and polarity in the other direction will light the blue LEDs. It's just happening faster than the human eye can detect. If you take a white led and place it in circuit it will flash with the white led however, spin the led around and it will flash with the blue LEDs. On steady, it will make the led light no matter which way it's connected. Merry xmas everyone!!!
BigClive has made videos on how you weatherproof Christmas lights and 3D-print baubles for LED and other stuff
Hi Vince, I love your videos, I suffer with anxiety and your video's really help me to relax, Keep up the Excellent work!!!
Everytime I see its possibly solved quickly, I check how much time is left. When I see we're 1/4th the way through I know we're going in deeper. Love trying to fix stuffs. Keep it coming Vince!
Big Clive has a recent video explaining how the light wiring works and the problem with ingression of water
as the pack uses only 4.5 volts, they can't be in series think they are multiplexed part of the reason for swappung the polarity is to reduce galvanic corrosion - but like others have said - ask the bearded wonder that is - Big Clive. Fantastic fella (if you fancy a laugh, search out his "fanny flambeau" video - id been watching him fr time ans was taking him totally seriously until almost the end lol.
Hope yyou had a great christmas and heres to a very happy new year
Yep, that is my time consuming job every year... checking the lights. Well Done on the diagnosis and repair. Happy Christmas and a Safe, Healthy and Happy New Years! 🎄🎅🏻🍾🎉
Merry Christmas Vince, thank you for your fix it videos this year, think I’ve watched and enjoyed them all :)
Thanks and Merry Christmas to you and your family.
Bigclive loves his LED fairy lights,
At 19:20 - To back probe wires one of the old time techs taught me to use needles like sewing needles and such depending on the size of wire you need to probe. That way you just leave a little tiny hole. That said if this is going outside may be best to cut it and redo with some waterproof shrink. Hope that helps!
Aa
Thank you Sir! Greatly appreciated troubleshooting that fault.
I remember those incandescent ones with a red tipped bulb that was used for the flasher effects!
I could not stand the parallel wired ones vs the ones in series as when a parallel bulb went out the entire string of lights went out and if you had multiple burnt bulbs forget about it lol!
Also.... I just noticed the video comes in 4K. Neat.
Oh yeah
MARRY CRISTMAS AND A HAPPY NEW YEAR TO YOU AND YOUR BELOVED ONES. HOPES FOR A BETTER YEAR FOR ALL OR US.
Great fix Vince , think most people would of give up and just brought a new set lol
My Christmas lights work but I just like his voice lol
Sir,today is my birthday and today u made a video on a beautiful Christmas tree .Thank u so much sir. I got my birthday gift from u.
Merry Christmas and and a Happy New Year to you Vince 🎅🤶⛄🎄🎁🎆👋
Maybe the shorted LEDs are a little bit warmer than the others? I'm not sure if this can be seen using your thermal camera but would be interesting to check.
Merry late Christmas to everyone!
LOL the way you threw The LED
Merry Christmas Vince
Sir you are saving environment from LED light land fill .great video I enjoy it great fix
Have a good day
I have solar LEDs :)
They charge up during the day, then turn on at about 7.30pm and off again at about 5am.
But, Christmas in Australia is during the summer time, so it works perfectly.
a Christmas special repair!
Brilliant Vince. Hope you had a fantastic Christmas.
Right I work with this lights all year long. The ones you have are not really for door door use
Plus once light goes out in a sequence then until the last bulb so you need to find the bulb that has fault...simple....I working these each day of the year
I had a similar fault this year but that string only has 2 sections and every LED in a section is connected together in series. One section has yellow and red LEDs, the other has green and blue ones. This second section got faulty after a few hours of operation. Most LEDs were slightly lit but one which was completely dead. I replaced it with a spare (I have a donor string for this) but after a few hours another green LED died. I figured out that different colour LEDs requires different ammount of current. Blues requires much more than greens. They tuned the current output from the flasher unit for the blues which was too much for the greens so they failed. So I've added a small resistor into the circuit. The blues are a bit dull but the greens work just fine and no more dead LEDs so far. So if you spot a LED string with mixed colours in one section, don't buy it! You'll run into trouble.
Normally battery powered lights are very dim, those are nice and bright and a nice coulor where did you get them ?
Very enjoyable watch, Happy New Year Vince
Merry Belated Christmas Vince!
The circuit is controlled with and "H-bridge" transistors driver and all the white LEDs are connected in paralell and opposite polarity to the blue LEDs, but each section is separated with a diode or ressistor from anothers so if one led short - kill only this section. The H-bridge can reverse polarity of the 2 lines so that plus and minus are reversed. That is a clever desingn used in so called "Charlie plexing" (different wireing method for multiplexing) dynamic LED displays to minimise the number of control lines. The H-bridge is also common driver for DC motors, with it you can reverse direction of the motor or make brake or PWM controll of the speed or both when needed and controlled by MCU. You could put that clue inside heatshrink tubes before you heat them so when they do the glue will spit a bit and seal tide the wires ;) At 33:00 on the right side where you put your finger you can clearly see the 4 transistors "H-bridge driver". You could simply cut all the nessesery heatshrinks instead cuting the wires but yes the job was done!
Interesting little fix
First first first I nabbed the TH-cam url from patreon 🤣
Well done Coder ;-) He who persists, wins!!!
@@Mymatevince haha I kinda cheated 🤣
Rather than a short I think the faulty led is putting a huge resistance on the circuit stopping the current passing through. There is about 1000 ohm resitance in the circuit which stops current flowing and thus all the lights in that circuit will go out. Usually each led would only put a small amount of resitance in the circuit. Too small to be measured by your multimeter it would seem. My guess is with enough voltage you could get them to light up with faulty led in situ. LEDs are supposed to last for ages. In my experience they don't. The led Spot lights last about 2 years before they get really dim and one of 2 led strip lights has also failed on me.
10-15 years ago LED lightning lifetime was often quoted as 100 000 hours, then reduced to 50 000, 30 000 and now usually 10 000 to 15 000. hours. And still the LED driver dies before that. Especially capacitors in the bottom of light bulbs are running very hot and usually the fault of failed LED bulbs
Thank you for the video. Very interesting including all the comments. I've been trying to fix some very expensive pro lights I bought from Christmas direct which claimed on their site to be ip65 but they have now told me that was a mistake and they are ip44 with no resin so they rusted just like cheap ones! They wont replace them!
I have a cheap set which have been up for 2 years now and are still working. I squirted waxoyl up each of the 1200 leds. Very laborious but seems to work.
Where do you get the replacement LEDs from?
I bought some lumify ones some years ago and they were resin encapsulated so didnt rust.
I think the smaller sections that went out when one or more LEDs were defective, are wired in series and the sections are wired in parallel. Those light strings probably need the in series section to generate the right voltage drop across the diodes, so that when one or more diodes are defective, the rest wont get a too high voltage and will burn out as well. So the light string has several voltage drop sections to get the right voltage drop in every section. And yep, the controller sends DC in alternate directions to either turn the white or the blue LEDs on, which are wired in oposite polarities and other kind of neat effects. Yay for electronics! Boo for poor chinese weatherproofing :D Merry Christmas!
Who knew Christmas lights could be so complicated, there was a time when it was a case of replacing the faulty lamp as they were only in series, wiring in series parallel has its advantages though, but comes a little confusing when fault finding.
Basically there are two wires and the leds are connected such that if one polarity is applied white leds light up and if other polarity then blue light up to light both we have to constantly change polarity at very fast rate that's why there are two wires only from the box
It's probably how it makes them light up differently with just 2 wires comming out of the battery pack. It must be switching positive and negative in the wires. Wiring up an led backwards can cause it to short and that's probably what happened to those that are faulty. They were less tolerant to inverted polarity and bang :)
This was nice. I enjoyed this.
Merry Christmas
Can't wait for the lenovo laptop ;P ;)
Its impressive that all those leds run on 3 double A batteries
Weird how bigclive just did a video sketching these circuits.
How interesting was that? I hope you and your family had a good christmas and I wish you all a happy new year.
i sometimes use needles to pinch through the isolation so you don't have to cut it. If you measure the voltage across each led the faulty one should have a deviating value
This is an interesting thing because it changes the polarity +/- continuously, I think also with capacitors and an IC with rectifiers?
Nice video Vince. I thought at first you had the same set of lights as me. Mine are very similar but 6V not 4.5v like yours. The other differences are that they have only two wires all the way and that I have just the green leds working. Red, blue and yellow out. Does your brother have any views on mine? Thanks John
Are those lights rated for outside use as there is nothing to stop water getting into the solder joints by the LEDs?
I would have thought something like a resin filled joint would be a more permanent solution for usage outside.
Chinese production rule nr 1. Time is money. You can´t spend time on anything in production.
Resin is way to time consuming if you want to sell dirt cheap.
To save overheating the LEDs would adding the rubber seal before the heat shrink then heat them both create a better seal??
What about a mini Tesla coil. This would allow you to check (non destructive) each of the LEDs that are out before you start cutting wires?
Maybe you could use a clamp meter to check the current through the parallel leds? That way no cutting is needed.
A little early for Christmas isn't it? huehuehuhe
🐨 I suspect the power rails if not just a crude Generated AC, may be a controlled wave form essentially "Frequency Modulated" AKA "FM" ergo because LED's would work on both AC and DC but with DC they must be connected the right way around to emit light, whilst if they are on an AC supply, it don't matter which way around they are connected, unless there is a parallel pair where one or more matching sets of LED's are connected vice Vs in order to reduce noticeable strobing 50Hz~60Hz opposed to a less noticeable 100~120Hz, And having said that there is another configuration which I think applies here where a positive Polarised DC is pulsed via a programmed sequence and at the same time an opposite polarised Negative DC is pulsed to another sequence "all controlled by a cheap 50p or 50cents Microprocessor" therefore outputting a lot more different lighting sequences..
Long story short an Oscilloscope will sort it all out.
As for repairing them though I think I may try your method next time over my method which BTW cost me $14.99 or were they $9.99 it's been been a while so I forget, oh and yeah I guess it cost us some space in our local land fill for the broken set.. 😳
great video
yes electronics is basically illimination, so yes what you were doing is right by going from the point of working to the point of end of the failure, and then halfing the area down to pin point the area affected.
Your new mic is not for me but as long as everyone else likes it then def keep it
The reason the LEDs work both ways is because those are controlled by switching polarity between to make it switch between white and blue and when both is lit it just switches super fast you can see it if it's just on one of the colors it's actually brighter
I just posted this then you found it out
Normally they have a resistor in parallel with each light, so that if one happens to fail, the current will still pass through the resistor. Maybe they didn't bother this time, because LEDs are supposed to last for a very long time.
No resistor in parallel just a current limit series resistor.
The faulty led would draw more current and should be able to feel the heat from the faulty led , so when the led are all static (on), but the current could be to low to feel it , never tried it this way
They work on 2 wires from the box and ac that way you get more more functions
Like music at end. What was it?
So, it seems, this was a xmas lights string with several sections of parallel LEDs. These sections are wired in series, because other sections kept on going when a section was shorted. So, the PSU/FX box is generating AC in various frequencies / patterns. The blues and the whites are connected in opposite polarities, so they can be controlled separately. There's only 4.5V worth of batteries, yet, there are series connected LEDs. So the opposite side of the PCB probably has an inductor, for boosting the voltage.
The fixing is pointless. The LEDs are constructed in a way that they'll wick up water. Next year, I guarantee you, again, several sections will be out. Buy a new one. Take the time to properly waterproof every LED before first use. Or buy a new one every few years.
But even that won't work for long. Usually, LEDs fail open. Short-circuits are rare. Must be because of the AC, I guess. Anyway, no matter how much you waterproof the set, if the LEDs themselves fail into short-circuit, then again, pointless.
Anyway, very cute to see you fixing a junk LED string. Could be a bit more interesting: you really should measure the voltages that the PSU/FX box is putting out, in DC mode on slow patterns, in AC mode when both colours seem to be lit. And of course, next time, reveal the back of the PCB in there.
Great work m8 but it isn't worth spending that much time for what they cost is it?
Should have collabed with BigClive on this one.
could the fault been found/pinpointed with a voltage pen?
I notice it is only IP44, so not completely waterproof...
led christmas light are pain in the ass if you try to fix diode you figure out witch is broken,you change it then a few get borken out
21 thumbs down by the people that sell these lights to people knowing they should only last 2-3 years
keep fixing consoles like ps4 xbox people love watching fixing them
I use an old ps3 controller battery i had laying around to test Christmas leds
video: released 1 hour ago
comments: 1 week ago
*confusion*
Time travelers! They keep making more and more mistakes that we notice since we started time stamping things. 🧐
@@MrSleepProductionsInc 😂 coincidence i think not
I’d say you might find those 1 week ago replies are patreons
@@markwalsh8411 ahh thanks for telling me that makes sense now 😁😅
Rather than just trying, get some knowledge by watching BigCliveDotCom and understand the differences between types of cheap Christmas lights. Your subscribers are fighting in the comments section of Hugh Jeffreys's videos about how "knowledgeable" you have become over years of doing this..
that was shockingly complicated
Hate LEDs, much easier to change the old bulbs and better looking, still clinging on to mine 🤣
The LEDs are cheap and are not made to last and that explains the rust on some of them
I've had several lots of solar powered garden light strings & you're lucky if they even last for one season, sometimes the LEDs went rusty so fast they would actually fall off the wires on their own!
@@NOWThatsRichy yeah the leds aren't solded to the wires they are just heat srinked to the wires instead
time to turf lilo lil out of the box bedroom....twenty quid a week lodge and the smell of sardines just not worth the hassle
🎄
Epilepsy trigger
A bit late for this, isn't it?
Oh well, ready for next year!
♥
Can you send me private message on TH-cam. I have a joycon for you to repair. I’ve replaced it so I no longer need it
Hi, love ur video. I have same led xmas led setup except that mine is solar powered. It got damaged after a typhoon here in Guam. It is cut in different sections and some bulbs are missing. I see urs has 2 wires going in and out and the 3rd wire goes to the ends. How do the wires go to a bulb? Does polarity matter? What about the ends are they terminated with the 3 wires crossed? What if a bulb is missing do I connect the 4 wires (2 in and 2 out)? I am thinking they will short so I guess just leave them unconnected. Thanks 🙏
damp rot
awkward but woth it
Thrilling. Someone fixing Xmas lights. Sorry Vince, but if you want to grow TH-cam, it needs to be more exciting than this.
8:19
Wouldn't the one wire be the positive? It runs all the way along. Each section would have a led(s) with a resistor to cap the voltage. The one you measured with 220ohm resistance would of made me strip all the heat shrink from it and explore further.
I'm not being negative about the video. But watching someone who earns their living from repair videos, and the amount of fumbling about you did is quite annoying.
Do yourself a favour. Bit of research before hand.
Bigclive is a good place to start.
show us how to fix a water damaged mario bros game and watch
i would have just cut them up & binned them they are not designed to be repaired
Merry Christmas Vince, thank you for your fix it videos this year, think I’ve watched and enjoyed them all :)
Merry Christmas Vince