I had exactly this problem. Thank you for this absolutely brilliant video which I followed to replace my Golf master cylinder. Total cost £30 :) I found that my O-Ring on the pipe that goes into the master cylinder was more like a stepped hat than an O-Ring and it was wedged in the old master cylinder so worth having a good look at the old cylinder as it will probably be in there. This job could be so much easier! There was a lot of swearing but following this video step by step got me there in the end. Many many thanks! :)
Thank you for the positive comment and I'm glad it helped you out! If you have to do the job again I would recommend getting a genuine master cylinder as I've found that the cheap ones don't last very long (usually 6 months to a year).
Great video, had the exact same problem and garage quoted me £450 to change. After watching this it gave me the confidence to tackle it myself and saved a heap of money 💸 Thank you!
Thank you for this very informative video! My mk7 golf TDI just experienced the same issue. Acute clutch pedal stuck to the floor. Haven't yet checked for leaks but I'm hoping the design is the same as mk6
Thanks for a excellent video! Have a Golf 6 (5k1) 2.0l 140hk TDI where the clutch pedal sometimes stick to the floor or more often just don't pull up all the way. It is intermittent and do not happen that often but still need to be fixed, is searching for leakages the only way to tell what cylinder is causing the issues or is there any other way to tell? Since I live i Sweden I got a the steering wheel on the left hand side do you know if that will give slightly more room at the master cylinder?
Have you tried topping up the master cylinder reservoir with DOT 4? If it's a extremely small leak it can be difficult to find. If the oil level is dropping considerably try cleaning both the master and slave cylinder with blue paper towel so that both, and the area around is clean and dry so that you can check for external leaks. If you don't find anything and the level in the reservoir is dropping there is a good chance that the slave cylinder is leaking into the bell housing. To check this you can remove and see if the push rod looks like it has residue of hydraulic oil on it, or put a bore scope camera down inside to check for oil. I've never done a LHD so can't answer your second question, but I imagine space constraints would be similar. All the best with tracing it and let me know how you get on
Thanks for doing this, could really come in handy. I'm about to replace my master clutch cylinder on my Octavia mk3, and I'm a complete novice. Hopefully I can make it work.
Just take your time and double check all the steps and you will be fine. If you run into any problems feel free to drop me a message and I may be able to help out.
Hi, I've got what seems like 2 problems with the clutch on my mk6 2.0 Caddy. For a while the pedal has intermittently stuck half way up, I have to pop it back up with my foot. But now I'm loosing compression when pressing the clutch, and I'm having to use a bit of force to get it into gear. Reservoir level is up to the max line and I cant see and leaks. I've been quoted £1000 to get it sorted! I've already spent over £500 fixing the oil cooler housing that failed a couple of months ago! Do you do work for customers or just yourself? If you do how much would you charge? And how would I get in touch with you? Thanks
@@lucywithers2488 Hi Lucy, I do some work for customers on my side but my main job is fixing marine engines on ships. Currently I have no availability for at least 5 weeks. From what you have described, providing that the clutch is correctly bled then it could be an issue with the release bearing or spring. In which case the gearbox would have to be removed and I would recommend changing the whole clutch assembly. Depending on what clutch you go for this should cost you around the £600 mark (providing no other issues are found) so it may be worth trying to find another garage. Sorry I could not be of more help but the timing is currently quite bad for me. Feel free to contact me for anymore issues in the future however, always happy to help. Based in Mid Wales if you're close by. Cheapest things to check though is whether the clutch is properly bled (a job I believe anyone can do themselves with a friend and plenty of vids on how to do it).
Hi Fella, I changed the master cylinder on my mk6 golf, slave cylinder was returning and no leaks. Do I need to bleed the system as pedal still not returning?
I have a problem with my clutch, i am taking my golf mk6 1.6 tdi to mechanic to fix this but mine happens only when i put my foot down on second gear but it gets stuck for a few seconds and pop back up, other than that no other issues, is it the master slave cylinder? Or something else ? , thanks please reply as i am going to mechanic tomorrow , thanks
@@M4n5or Most likely due to the springs in the clutch plate. I would recommend changing the clutch and bearing, you can get a decent kit for around the £200 mark. Then labour will be dependent on your mechanic
But clutch feels good if the clutch is good then there isn't the point of changing it, I'll tell mechanic to change the bearing see if it fixes with that. Cheers though for your help
I have a problem where the clutch stuck to the floor. I checked the slave cylinder and had someone press the clutch. It pushes out. You said if it pushes out, replacing the slave cylinder would fix it?
If it pushes out and you cannot see any leaks then it is more than likely the master cylinder. The same procedure to remove as this video. I have also uploaded another video on changing the master cylinder from the pedal to help guide you through that part
@@aguyandhisgarage The reservoir still has fluid. Level has dropped slightly. It’s a bit wet underneath by the oil pan. Just to clarify So I don’t have to do anything with the slave cylinder? just replace the master cylinder, and see if that fixed it?
@@alvarocruz9613 Yes, if it was the slave cylinder leaking it would be leaking into the gearbox bellhousing and you wouldn't see it externally. So its master Cylinder of one of the pipes hoses, I'd start by confirming the hoses and pipes are not leaking by running a clean paper towel along them. If changing the master cylinder remember to leave access to the slave cylinder for when you bleed the system at the end of the job
So this happened to me clutch won’t come back up and won’t go on gear managed to get it gear but won’t go in reverse and soon as the peddle comes up bite point is there straight away and idea mate guna try the slave 1st
Hi, the pedal on my mk7 gti was sticking to the floor so took it in, and had the master cylinder replaced. It felt fine for the first couple of hours, then it sticks to the floor again. Could this be the Slave?
Essentially what's happened is you've lost all the fluid from your system again. Yes it could be the slave, it could be an issue with a hole in the piping, o'r it could be that the O-ring in the master cylinder where the pipe goes in was missing/has been incorrectly installed. I've also seen where if the cheapest master cylinder on the market is installed they may last from a few weeks to a few months, it could be that you got a really bad one that has only lasted a few hours? Really you need to try and source where the leak is coming from and take it from there. Hope this helps you out.
I have a similar problem which is intermittent with the clutch not popping back the whole way. Got quoted £280 to change master cylidner as apparently this is the easier of the 2 as the whole gearbox has to come out for slave. (09 mk6 golf 2.0tdi). Mechanic said you dont know which one it is so repalce cheaper one first. I really dont fancy paying to do master cylinder for them to say its not fixed! Any ideas? Had a look underneath and can see a bit of oil round the right had drive shaft cup and underneath but isnt much!
It really depends on which slave cylinder you have, for a concentric slave cylinder you would have to pull the gearbox out, and whilst you're at it you may as well change the clutch. If you have had a new clutch recently then I would check the receipts to see if the slave cylinder was replaced at the same time. If you have a regular slave cylinder then I would say that this is the easiest to replace. With your Reg number you should be able to check. As for the master cylinder, the price between genuine and aftermarket varies greatly. I have had to stop using the aftermarket ones as I'm sure that they are all made by the same manufacturer and generally fail after 6 months to a year. If the price quoted is for using a genuine master cylinder then its a fair price. If they are using an aftermarket part then I would say its on the pricey side. For reference I would charge about £100 in labour for changing the master cylinder. As for diagnosing it can be hard. If the problem is intermittent then most probably any leak is very small, and by topping up the reservoir will be temporarily resolved. you would really need to try and feel under the master cylinder to see if its wet. I usually use some paper towel to wipe around the master cylinder and along the pipework, starting as low as possible and work yourself up. Using this technique with paper towel will make it very obvious. It may even just be that the O-ring from the pipe to the master cylinder needs replacing. The oil underneath really would have to be cleaned and see if it returns. Too many times I have seen old oil leaks, or spillages from oil changes etc that have not been cleaned up properly, which later on down the line shows itself as a false fault. I hope this has helped you out and please feel free to reach out to me if I can be of more assistance.
@cambrianclassics9526 very thorough useful reply, thanks for your help. My reg is SY09TRX do you have a website to check what type of slave cylinder I have? Hopefully it's the easy one to access. I will try and use the paper towell method but I guess either way it still has to go to the garage to fix. Currently it's very intermittent as sometimes you can drive the car but the pedal only sticks half the time. The strange thing is when I checked the reservoir it still was full so didn't drop much but maybe as you said it's a pressure issue round the o ring. Many thanks mate
Hi, I have checked and you have the standard slave cylinder. Just remove the air box, battery and battery tray and you have good access. All these parts will need to come out to bleed the clutch regardless of whether you change the slave or master cylinder. Changing the slave cylinder can easily be done within an hour. If you are confident you can follow my video and try to replace it yourself. Or if you are located in mid-Wales you can always book it in with me. Anyhow, let me know how you get on
Thanks thats good to know. Would it be obvious if I accessed the slave if its that one that is leaky / broke? confident haha hmm ill watch again to see if I can tackle it. What was strange with mine was that when the clutch was depressed it got stuck and no pulling it would lift it! Thanks again
Hi Mate, I have the exact same issue. By chance how long would you say it takes to complete this job. I have the Master Cylinder on order and want to get it done asap
Depending on experience, i would say 2-3 hours including time to bleed the system. If you need minimum down time then it's probably worth ordering the slave cylinder too incase that is where your leak is from. If it leaks from the slave it will go inside the bell housing of the gearbox and won't be visible until you remove it. If you get stuck anywhere feel free to drop me a message
Depending on experience, i would say 2-3 hours including time to bleed the system. If you need minimum down time then it's probably worth ordering the slave cylinder too incase that is where your leak is from. If it leaks from the slave it will go inside the bell housing of the gearbox and won't be visible until you remove it. If you get stuck anywhere feel free to drop me a message
Thank you for the constructive criticism. This video was from a while ago. I think that even with good lighting, due to the tight space it's very difficult to actually show you things well
Hi when I push the clutch pedal the slave cylinder pushes against my hand with lots of force, does this mean that the master cylinder is okay and the clutch has failed ?
@@aguyandhisgaragehi, I’m not loosing fluid and yes the pedal hit the floor when pressed and doesn’t return, if I lift the pedal and get someone to press the pedal down the slave cylinder pushes out but the pedal then stay to the floor. Where the slave cylinder pushes against the clutch fork you can see that it can’t push the fork forward ?
@@ryanpoultney839 I would try and bleed the clutch first. If the fork is stuck in then the clutch must be permanently disengaged? In which case yes you will have to remove the gearbox to replace the clutch
Depending on of you were going to use aftermarket parts or genuine VW. But I would charge around £200 with an aftermarket part. Off the top of my head I can't remember the cost of a genuine part but think it's +£100 more.
Best way is probably to get someone to help you. One person to sit in the car and press down the clutch pedal, when its pressed down open the nipple on the slave cylinder so that air/fluid can flow out. Then close off the nipple, lift the clutch pedal and repeat. Keep an eye out on the fluid level in the master cylinder so that you don't introduce more air to the system
It's not broken. Unfortunately my hands/fingers are too big to get at it without using a screwdriver. Just had te car back in for a service and still going strong
Suddenly one morning I found my clutch pedal flat to the floor on my Volkswagon Transporter 6 speed manual. I believe it is likely to be a master cylinder or slave cylinder. But first I have to find them! I tried to follow this video, but the Transporter is different. Any tips greatly appreciated! Here is a video of my problem and trying to find the master and slave cylinders: th-cam.com/video/IoL0r3SlgZI/w-d-xo.html
Hi Paul, If memory serves me correctly the master cylinder is quite similar, in that it needs to be removed from inside of the car with the pedal. On the other side of the bulkhead (in the engine bay) it is most likely hidden behind a aluminium foil type heat shield, but if you follow the hose down from the clutch/brake reservoir you should hopefully be able to find it pretty easily. Best regards
I had exactly this problem. Thank you for this absolutely brilliant video which I followed to replace my Golf master cylinder. Total cost £30 :) I found that my O-Ring on the pipe that goes into the master cylinder was more like a stepped hat than an O-Ring and it was wedged in the old master cylinder so worth having a good look at the old cylinder as it will probably be in there. This job could be so much easier! There was a lot of swearing but following this video step by step got me there in the end. Many many thanks! :)
Thank you for the positive comment and I'm glad it helped you out! If you have to do the job again I would recommend getting a genuine master cylinder as I've found that the cheap ones don't last very long (usually 6 months to a year).
Great video, had the exact same problem and garage quoted me £450 to change. After watching this it gave me the confidence to tackle it myself and saved a heap of money 💸 Thank you!
Thank you, I'm glad it helped you out!
Thank you for this very informative video! My mk7 golf TDI just experienced the same issue. Acute clutch pedal stuck to the floor. Haven't yet checked for leaks but I'm hoping the design is the same as mk6
Glad it helped
Thanks for a excellent video!
Have a Golf 6 (5k1) 2.0l 140hk TDI where the clutch pedal sometimes stick to the floor or more often just don't pull up all the way.
It is intermittent and do not happen that often but still need to be fixed, is searching for leakages the only way to tell what cylinder is causing the issues or is there any other way to tell?
Since I live i Sweden I got a the steering wheel on the left hand side do you know if that will give slightly more room at the master cylinder?
Have you tried topping up the master cylinder reservoir with DOT 4? If it's a extremely small leak it can be difficult to find.
If the oil level is dropping considerably try cleaning both the master and slave cylinder with blue paper towel so that both, and the area around is clean and dry so that you can check for external leaks. If you don't find anything and the level in the reservoir is dropping there is a good chance that the slave cylinder is leaking into the bell housing. To check this you can remove and see if the push rod looks like it has residue of hydraulic oil on it, or put a bore scope camera down inside to check for oil.
I've never done a LHD so can't answer your second question, but I imagine space constraints would be similar.
All the best with tracing it and let me know how you get on
Thanks for doing this, could really come in handy. I'm about to replace my master clutch cylinder on my Octavia mk3, and I'm a complete novice. Hopefully I can make it work.
Just take your time and double check all the steps and you will be fine. If you run into any problems feel free to drop me a message and I may be able to help out.
@@aguyandhisgarage Thanks mate, very kind of you.
Hi, I've got what seems like 2 problems with the clutch on my mk6 2.0 Caddy. For a while the pedal has intermittently stuck half way up, I have to pop it back up with my foot. But now I'm loosing compression when pressing the clutch, and I'm having to use a bit of force to get it into gear.
Reservoir level is up to the max line and I cant see and leaks. I've been quoted £1000 to get it sorted! I've already spent over £500 fixing the oil cooler housing that failed a couple of months ago!
Do you do work for customers or just yourself? If you do how much would you charge? And how would I get in touch with you? Thanks
@@lucywithers2488 Hi Lucy, I do some work for customers on my side but my main job is fixing marine engines on ships. Currently I have no availability for at least 5 weeks.
From what you have described, providing that the clutch is correctly bled then it could be an issue with the release bearing or spring. In which case the gearbox would have to be removed and I would recommend changing the whole clutch assembly.
Depending on what clutch you go for this should cost you around the £600 mark (providing no other issues are found) so it may be worth trying to find another garage.
Sorry I could not be of more help but the timing is currently quite bad for me.
Feel free to contact me for anymore issues in the future however, always happy to help. Based in Mid Wales if you're close by.
Cheapest things to check though is whether the clutch is properly bled (a job I believe anyone can do themselves with a friend and plenty of vids on how to do it).
Hi Fella, I changed the master cylinder on my mk6 golf, slave cylinder was returning and no leaks. Do I need to bleed the system as pedal still not returning?
Hi, yes you are required to re-bleed the system after changing the master cylinder.
I have a problem with my clutch, i am taking my golf mk6 1.6 tdi to mechanic to fix this but mine happens only when i put my foot down on second gear but it gets stuck for a few seconds and pop back up, other than that no other issues, is it the master slave cylinder? Or something else ? , thanks please reply as i am going to mechanic tomorrow , thanks
It's hard to say definitely, but it it's getting stuck and then popping back up then it could be an issue with your clutch release bearing sticking
Yeah it only does it on second gear when foot down and for a sec it gets stuck then pops back up by itself, u think it's expensive to fix?
And there is slightly vibration on clutch when it's stationary and clutch fully down it vibrates little bit not alot do you know why? Cheers
@@M4n5or Most likely due to the springs in the clutch plate. I would recommend changing the clutch and bearing, you can get a decent kit for around the £200 mark. Then labour will be dependent on your mechanic
But clutch feels good if the clutch is good then there isn't the point of changing it, I'll tell mechanic to change the bearing see if it fixes with that. Cheers though for your help
I have a problem where the clutch stuck to the floor. I checked the slave cylinder and had someone press the clutch. It pushes out. You said if it pushes out, replacing the slave cylinder would fix it?
If it pushes out and you cannot see any leaks then it is more than likely the master cylinder. The same procedure to remove as this video. I have also uploaded another video on changing the master cylinder from the pedal to help guide you through that part
@@aguyandhisgarage The reservoir still has fluid. Level has dropped slightly. It’s a bit wet underneath by the oil pan.
Just to clarify So I don’t have to do anything with the slave cylinder?
just replace the master cylinder, and see if that fixed it?
@@alvarocruz9613 Yes, if it was the slave cylinder leaking it would be leaking into the gearbox bellhousing and you wouldn't see it externally. So its master Cylinder of one of the pipes hoses, I'd start by confirming the hoses and pipes are not leaking by running a clean paper towel along them.
If changing the master cylinder remember to leave access to the slave cylinder for when you bleed the system at the end of the job
So this happened to me clutch won’t come back up and won’t go on gear managed to get it gear but won’t go in reverse and soon as the peddle comes up bite point is there straight away and idea mate guna try the slave 1st
@@gavb85 if you need any help or advice just let me know 💪🏻
@@aguyandhisgarage guna change the slave tomorrow and go from there
Great content and excellent effects
Thank you!
Hi, the pedal on my mk7 gti was sticking to the floor so took it in, and had the master cylinder replaced. It felt fine for the first couple of hours, then it sticks to the floor again. Could this be the Slave?
Essentially what's happened is you've lost all the fluid from your system again. Yes it could be the slave, it could be an issue with a hole in the piping, o'r it could be that the O-ring in the master cylinder where the pipe goes in was missing/has been incorrectly installed. I've also seen where if the cheapest master cylinder on the market is installed they may last from a few weeks to a few months, it could be that you got a really bad one that has only lasted a few hours?
Really you need to try and source where the leak is coming from and take it from there.
Hope this helps you out.
I have a similar problem which is intermittent with the clutch not popping back the whole way. Got quoted £280 to change master cylidner as apparently this is the easier of the 2 as the whole gearbox has to come out for slave. (09 mk6 golf 2.0tdi). Mechanic said you dont know which one it is so repalce cheaper one first. I really dont fancy paying to do master cylinder for them to say its not fixed! Any ideas? Had a look underneath and can see a bit of oil round the right had drive shaft cup and underneath but isnt much!
It really depends on which slave cylinder you have, for a concentric slave cylinder you would have to pull the gearbox out, and whilst you're at it you may as well change the clutch. If you have had a new clutch recently then I would check the receipts to see if the slave cylinder was replaced at the same time. If you have a regular slave cylinder then I would say that this is the easiest to replace. With your Reg number you should be able to check.
As for the master cylinder, the price between genuine and aftermarket varies greatly. I have had to stop using the aftermarket ones as I'm sure that they are all made by the same manufacturer and generally fail after 6 months to a year. If the price quoted is for using a genuine master cylinder then its a fair price. If they are using an aftermarket part then I would say its on the pricey side. For reference I would charge about £100 in labour for changing the master cylinder.
As for diagnosing it can be hard. If the problem is intermittent then most probably any leak is very small, and by topping up the reservoir will be temporarily resolved. you would really need to try and feel under the master cylinder to see if its wet. I usually use some paper towel to wipe around the master cylinder and along the pipework, starting as low as possible and work yourself up. Using this technique with paper towel will make it very obvious. It may even just be that the O-ring from the pipe to the master cylinder needs replacing.
The oil underneath really would have to be cleaned and see if it returns. Too many times I have seen old oil leaks, or spillages from oil changes etc that have not been cleaned up properly, which later on down the line shows itself as a false fault.
I hope this has helped you out and please feel free to reach out to me if I can be of more assistance.
@cambrianclassics9526 very thorough useful reply, thanks for your help. My reg is SY09TRX do you have a website to check what type of slave cylinder I have? Hopefully it's the easy one to access.
I will try and use the paper towell method but I guess either way it still has to go to the garage to fix. Currently it's very intermittent as sometimes you can drive the car but the pedal only sticks half the time. The strange thing is when I checked the reservoir it still was full so didn't drop much but maybe as you said it's a pressure issue round the o ring.
Many thanks mate
Hi, I have checked and you have the standard slave cylinder. Just remove the air box, battery and battery tray and you have good access. All these parts will need to come out to bleed the clutch regardless of whether you change the slave or master cylinder. Changing the slave cylinder can easily be done within an hour.
If you are confident you can follow my video and try to replace it yourself. Or if you are located in mid-Wales you can always book it in with me.
Anyhow, let me know how you get on
Thanks thats good to know. Would it be obvious if I accessed the slave if its that one that is leaky / broke?
confident haha hmm ill watch again to see if I can tackle it. What was strange with mine was that when the clutch was depressed it got stuck and no pulling it would lift it!
Thanks again
Is it a mq200 or 250 gearbox I have?
Well done,just the useful information
Thank you for the positive feedback
Hi Mate, I have the exact same issue. By chance how long would you say it takes to complete this job. I have the Master Cylinder on order and want to get it done asap
Depending on experience, i would say 2-3 hours including time to bleed the system. If you need minimum down time then it's probably worth ordering the slave cylinder too incase that is where your leak is from. If it leaks from the slave it will go inside the bell housing of the gearbox and won't be visible until you remove it. If you get stuck anywhere feel free to drop me a message
Depending on experience, i would say 2-3 hours including time to bleed the system. If you need minimum down time then it's probably worth ordering the slave cylinder too incase that is where your leak is from. If it leaks from the slave it will go inside the bell housing of the gearbox and won't be visible until you remove it. If you get stuck anywhere feel free to drop me a message
We couldn't see much because of poor lighting.
A quick tip: look into the LENS of the camera, not into the monitor when you talk with us.
Thank you for the constructive criticism. This video was from a while ago. I think that even with good lighting, due to the tight space it's very difficult to actually show you things well
Hi when I push the clutch pedal the slave cylinder pushes against my hand with lots of force, does this mean that the master cylinder is okay and the clutch has failed ?
@@ryanpoultney839 are you loosing fluid? Does the clutch pedal get stuck down?
@@aguyandhisgaragehi, I’m not loosing fluid and yes the pedal hit the floor when pressed and doesn’t return, if I lift the pedal and get someone to press the pedal down the slave cylinder pushes out but the pedal then stay to the floor.
Where the slave cylinder pushes against the clutch fork you can see that it can’t push the fork forward ?
@@ryanpoultney839 I would try and bleed the clutch first. If the fork is stuck in then the clutch must be permanently disengaged? In which case yes you will have to remove the gearbox to replace the clutch
@@aguyandhisgaragethank you for your replies doesn’t look like it’s the master cylinder then ?
@@ryanpoultney839 it could be, but if it's not loosing fluid and there has been no way of air entering the system then it's not likely.
Great video, thank you👌
Thank you, I'm glad it helped you out!
How much would the parts and labour cost??
Depending on of you were going to use aftermarket parts or genuine VW. But I would charge around £200 with an aftermarket part. Off the top of my head I can't remember the cost of a genuine part but think it's +£100 more.
But isn't the slave cylinder in a mk 6 Golf incorporated in the release bearing...?
No there is a clutch fork which it pushes onto
Thanks for reply...
@Martin yeah 6 speed 02Q have the slave and throw out bearing inside the bell housing at least in North America
Depends on the version, but this is the case in the 2009 MK6 GTI 210HP.
Thank you!!!
How to bleeding bro ????
Best way is probably to get someone to help you. One person to sit in the car and press down the clutch pedal, when its pressed down open the nipple on the slave cylinder so that air/fluid can flow out. Then close off the nipple, lift the clutch pedal and repeat. Keep an eye out on the fluid level in the master cylinder so that you don't introduce more air to the system
changed master cylinder cant bleed the system
Could you elaborate more? How are you trying to bleed the master cylinder?
2:25 Clip on that position sensor is now broken, dont use a screwdriver
It's not broken. Unfortunately my hands/fingers are too big to get at it without using a screwdriver. Just had te car back in for a service and still going strong
Suddenly one morning I found my clutch pedal flat to the floor on my Volkswagon Transporter 6 speed manual. I believe it is likely to be a master cylinder or slave cylinder. But first I have to find them!
I tried to follow this video, but the Transporter is different. Any tips greatly appreciated!
Here is a video of my problem and trying to find the master and slave cylinders:
th-cam.com/video/IoL0r3SlgZI/w-d-xo.html
Hi Paul,
If memory serves me correctly the master cylinder is quite similar, in that it needs to be removed from inside of the car with the pedal. On the other side of the bulkhead (in the engine bay) it is most likely hidden behind a aluminium foil type heat shield, but if you follow the hose down from the clutch/brake reservoir you should hopefully be able to find it pretty easily.
Best regards