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@@vikash-MSC please see my reply to your previous comment

@@vikash-MSC in the sensor block at the top, and there should be a flexible hose leading from it to the sludge discharge. To test it usually put the feed water hose onto it and open the solenoid valve, this check should be done periodically. It may be that you have another issue with the purifier which is causing this alarm.

You need to check with the a OBD reader you buy what cars it's compatible with. Generally the more expensive the more cars it will be able to read and you will be able to update the software to keep it relevant for newer cars that will be released

@@MarkChalmers-em3xp sounds nice, would be good to see some pictures. Does the side tank fit underneath the tub? Are you planning to use it for water or fuel? Think my next step is to repair my tub and order a new bulkhead and then get them fitted and painted. After that I hope the rest of the build will progress quite quickly

@@aguyandhisgarage Its a britpart 45 inline fueltank under the rear right corner. You fasten it in 2 places, to the rear cross member and the tub so need to do with tub on. I bought a side locker for which i originally intended to fit in the left corner but in the end decided to put on the side as i may put a water tank in the rear corner. I think you should put the tub on so you know where you may get clashes.... measured it a million time before i took the angle grinder to it! Only issue i have at present as the door springs open and need to remove and shim out a little! Got loads of photos and happy to share... not sure i can do it here....

@@MarkChalmers-em3xp yeah, I will get the tub fitted first and then start mocking up underslung tanks etc. You could always email me? cambrianclassics@hotmail.com

@@aguyandhisgarage have sent a couple of emails with photos. If you have any questions just let me know….

@@Familyfriendsaudio I shop around a lot looking for quality Vs price. It all depends on what you're after I guess? Some parts will only be available in a used condition

@@ChristopherBennett-t2d it's definitely something I will look into, but then I assume you need to run electric fans due to space issues?

@@John-e5g4d thanks

@@robertfack3082 thanks for your input. I will definitely bare it in mind when I come to assembling the spare parts I will be taking with me

@@mad05c Have you tried a IR thermometer to check whether the hot temperature reading is accurate? Temperature transducers can be calibrated differently and so may not be the correct one for your gauge. As for the bench test, all I can think is that perhaps your earth terminal has broken internally and you are making an earth through the body of the gauge when fitted. You could easily try to test this theory. If not let me know and I will have a deeper think about it.

@@aguyandhisgarage Can I simply test it with my car battery? Battery positive to top gauge terminal and then would I connect the bottom gauge terminal to the negative battery or to the frame for a ground?

@@mad05c yes you could do. Connect it to the negative terminal on the gauge and then try to an exposed metal part of the body and see if there's any difference. Just make sure you know which terminal is the positive on the gauge

@@paulbarnard5267 I guess it may depend on what part of the country you come from 😂

@@aguyandhisgarage Probably. I live near Salisbury how about you 😀

@@paulbarnard5267 I am tucked away in mid Wales far from civilization haha

@@grahames9228 absolutely agree, however to some extent extra weight is inevitable for safety/security. With good planning I can hopefully keep the centre of gravity down low and not compromise on range/worry of getting stuck.

@@trinityharbour7054 there are plenty of sellers if you do a Google search or on ebay. I think I got mine from DIY.dieselshop

@@aguyandhisgarage thanks! Great video, by the way.

@@trinityharbour7054 thank you!

@@mattluszczak8095 they are not available to buy new but there's always a supply of second hand and reconditioned for sale.

@@matthewwhitney8103 I've not really been tracking it that tightly. It must be around £2k for everything including the ancillaries.

That's pretty good investment the first trucks lasted 20-30 years . Yours is looking spot on 👍🏻

@@matthewwhitney8103 Thank you. As long as they are still selling diesel in 30 year's time I hope this one will still be going strong

Stay Tuned, I am currently waiting on a bulkhead but hopefully soon I'll be able to carry on with this build!

@@lucywithers2488 Hi Lucy, I do some work for customers on my side but my main job is fixing marine engines on ships. Currently I have no availability for at least 5 weeks. From what you have described, providing that the clutch is correctly bled then it could be an issue with the release bearing or spring. In which case the gearbox would have to be removed and I would recommend changing the whole clutch assembly. Depending on what clutch you go for this should cost you around the £600 mark (providing no other issues are found) so it may be worth trying to find another garage. Sorry I could not be of more help but the timing is currently quite bad for me. Feel free to contact me for anymore issues in the future however, always happy to help. Based in Mid Wales if you're close by. Cheapest things to check though is whether the clutch is properly bled (a job I believe anyone can do themselves with a friend and plenty of vids on how to do it).

kek

what model of purifier is it exactly? and is the feed pump controlled by VFD?

​@@aguyandhisgarage Gea westfalia 4000, our feed pump does not use VFD

GEA westfalia 4000, our feed pump is not controller by VFD​@@aguyandhisgarage

A new bush is included in the overhaul kit for the spindle

@@ryanpoultney839 are you loosing fluid? Does the clutch pedal get stuck down?

@@aguyandhisgaragehi, I’m not loosing fluid and yes the pedal hit the floor when pressed and doesn’t return, if I lift the pedal and get someone to press the pedal down the slave cylinder pushes out but the pedal then stay to the floor. Where the slave cylinder pushes against the clutch fork you can see that it can’t push the fork forward ?

@@ryanpoultney839 I would try and bleed the clutch first. If the fork is stuck in then the clutch must be permanently disengaged? In which case yes you will have to remove the gearbox to replace the clutch

@@aguyandhisgaragethank you for your replies doesn’t look like it’s the master cylinder then ?

@@ryanpoultney839 it could be, but if it's not loosing fluid and there has been no way of air entering the system then it's not likely.

@@ilhamalfaridzi4629 have you tested the water flow through the water block?

@@aguyandhisgarage yes sir already test and pressure 2 bar when opening selenoid valve by manual..even i adjut timer for total ejection until 3s but still same

@@ilhamalfaridzi4629 and before starting a cycle, if you press stop to initiate a ejection, can you hear a thud from the bowl during ejection?

@@aguyandhisgarage no..i cant hear thud when total ejection coming, does height of bowl also effect desludging??

@@ilhamalfaridzi4629 there's no reason why the height of the bowl should change? You could try and increase the pressure to 3 bar when valve V3 is open and see if that makes a difference?

@@GordenEsau what is the fault code?

Yes I realise that now and videos since have been without background music. Apologies for the sound quality on this one

@@aguyandhisgaragewhat a kind reply. You didn’t have to apologise. 👍

Yes you could if you remove the wing and air filter to get better access. The spring isn't too much of an issue, the hardest and most critical part is making sure that the stop lever is engaged properly. Very common to do on old tractor engines where the pump is mounted horizontally and is a doddle.

Most likely will be connected to the leak in the engine bay, especially if it's only that brake doing it. Even after fixing the leak it may take changing the pads and a good clean of the disk to get rid of it

Thank you for the constructive criticism. This video was from a while ago. I think that even with good lighting, due to the tight space it's very difficult to actually show you things well

I've used a range depending on the use. Most was done with 1mm2 thin wall which is rated to 8.75amps. then where needed I've increased the size to take 17amps or 33amps

@@aguyandhisgarage Thanx for your quick answer 🙂

The later 200tdi and 300tdi both have Bosch pumps fitted as standard, both of the CAV design. I've never tried making one fit into a series but I imagine you would need a custom shaft made up and that's if the body fits onto the engine block (therefore a lot of work). For me it would be easier just to replace the whole engine for a 200tdi. It's a commonly done swap and plenty of information online about it.

@@aguyandhisgarage Thanks so much for your kind reply. I'm thinking generically more than anything - I know sweet little about injector pumps, only that from running on Biofuels LucasCAV pumps are not happy for very long before they lose interest in their career for good. I have various pumps lying about and various engines and am interested as to how one can know what can be swapped and what can't, what to look for etc. Is there a chart somewhere of what swaps work or how to look up what should work, if they physically fit, or can be made to fit with, say, a mounting bracket? Or which pumps can be swapped to improve performance or longevity? What are the guidelines or rules of thumb -if there are any...?

I would really like to hear more about how they lose interest in their career for good? Biofuels are hygroscopic and so the extra water they can hold can harvest diesel bug as there was in the example in the video. The seals will usually fail too but that's due to the age of them and additives in new fuel, once re-sealed they should be good to go. Fuel pumps are chosen at the factory based off of many many calculations I don't even want to think about. They are then put on an engine on a test bed and fine tuned to give the most power/ efficiency/longevity so I'm not a big fan of messing around with fueling ratios and timing without a test bed as you can increase max pressure in the cylinders which could lead to full engine failure; maybe not at first but due to high cycle fatigue. All pumps usually have a way of increasing the fueling if you really did want to go down that route, but I would research others who have made the same modification and put enough hours on it to prove the longevity. At the end of the day I guess any injection pump for a set number of cylinders could theoretically be made to work with an engine with the same number of cylinders providing the fuelling could be adjusted within the working range of the engine.

@@aguyandhisgarage thanks. The LucasCAV issue is said to be caused by lubricity issues. I don't know anything about the internal workings of them so can only relay that time and again they failed very fast (under 500 miles) when used with pure plant oils (usually rapeseed) or rapeseed with up to 5% additive (usually paraffin pr natural or mineral turpentine / white spirit) whereas with Bosch pumps there was never an issue. I can say we had the same results time and again and on DI and IDI engines and vans (light commercials) and cars alike. I'm told the pumps had an issue when the car was on overrun using engine breaking, especially, as they were not getting enough lubrication - again I have no idea whether this is true or not. The oil was generally, but not always, heated using a heat exchanger from the cooling system usually but not always on a 'duel fuel' two-tank switchover system. Thanks for the info about injector pumps, I appreciate your time and kindness in answering. I was thinking about pump swaps and would like to know more after seeing videos of people, for instance, changing electronically controlled pumps to mechanical ones on OM606 engines and so would imagine one could do it on 'any' Diesel engine if one knew the rough parameters. I dare assume that sometimes the optimal pump won't be used due to reasons of emissions regulations or cost of either pump or research, or even to allow sales of different level cars. Any ideas on what to look for or consider and practical application considerations / workarounds appreciated. Thanks again.

@@aguyandhisgarage as you're interested, I should add just for interests sake that I used pure waste vegetable oil on Diesels for years and the performance was always better. That ranged from better MPG on my old Ford Transit 1989 model IIRC before the 'banana engine' to stunning changes in my Citroën BX. In the transit (DI) I had dual fuel switchover and when I went for particle emissions testing at the the MOT, running on plant oil, they used to think their machine broken as there was little or no reading. Then I'd explain I had dual fuel, take it for a blast on Diesel and come back to get a normal reading on the same test machine. On the BX TD (IDI) the MPG soared to some 10-15% better PLUS loads more power:- its normal top speed was in the late 90s mph on Diesel, yet on waste oil I could get 115mph and NO SOUND audible from the engine at speed - all I could hear was the air whooshing over the car, it was a fun experience. Also people knew when I'd been psst because of the chipshop smell. I once ran on a barrel of pure new coconut oil and the smell was lovely and sweet coconutty. Sorry I can't get any more technical than that with Diesel engines ;) I've just bought an old Düdo - a Mercedes 508D and wondered if I could boost the pump on that as they are notoriously underpowered but utterly reliable. It's from 1977 but not a whiff of black smoke from the exhaust. People do engine swaps and I might one day do that, but for now am just interested in a little tweaking if possible. Cheers.

Thank you, glad it helped you out!

I've just had a look and they came from japeurocarparts on eBay. Maybe you can see if they would be willing to ship them over to you? If not let me know and I'm sure you can buy the whole axle carrier here in the UK but they are very expensive for what they are.

@@aguyandhisgarage Eventually I found an aftermarket Chinese supplier "Febest" here in Au. who can supply. Even harder to find are the diff. axle assembly to car body x4 bushings...Toyota have stoppd supply on these too. I will avoid PS Bushings because sales rep on-line could not make distinctions between the 1994 and 1995 model LS400; sending me quotes for the wrong bushes...exactly the same one you had to change out again because of incorrect bolt hole diameter! Cheers from sunny Australia.

@@Warpedsmac hopefully you get all the parts you need. They are nice cars and definitely worth keeping on the road!

@@aguyandhisgarage Just one more question my friend, I noticed on the rear disc brakes there appears to be no pressed steel air deflectors to move the air over the caliper,,,the front has them for sure on this car; seen when yr standing in front of it on the hoist...What happened to the air deflectors?

@@Warpedsmac They had rusted away to nothing. Here in the UK that is the biggest killer of cars. It's been garaged it's whole life and is a one owner car. The owner is now in his 80's and doesn't deem it necessary to spend money on that, especially as he's not driving it as a performance car

100% agree. Although with the manufacturing technology available now there isn't really an excuse for them being in the wrong place.

@@aguyandhisgarage do you think the shielder bulkheads are any better now? Thinking of going for one because of the price.

I'm glad I have inspired you. If you send me an email to cambrianclassics@hotmail.com I will send you over a copy. Hopefully soon I will be able to publish it somewhere for all to see

They are not too bad. The biggest problem is the service interval which then leads them to being opened and dismantled numerous times which is usually when they get damaged

Are you able to send me an email? Then I can send it via email.

Tried to send message with email, but seems to get deleted, do you have a website I could get in touch. through?

Hi, no website at the moment but it's something I'll be looking into in the future. Can you email cambrianclassics@hotmail.com and I will send it over. Best regards Mathew

Senl to address you gave have you got it or have I got it wrong again

@@paulmills-gj3ph still not received anything

Hi, Ive just realised that the end of the video has been cut out. It should be tightened to 250Nm, turn rotate the hub a few times to settle the bearing and make sure it feels okay. Then final torque is to 420Nm