Couple of things I found when rebuilding mine. You can get the cases apart if you cut down an alan key to remove the part that stops the cases coming apart and leave the flywheel/generator in place, or buy the correct puller. I ordered the puller but while it was in transit, I cut down an alan key and got the cases apart. The rod that holds the fork gets bent ever so slightly. Whilst this is hardly noticeable, it does make a difference to where the fork engages the dogs. I changed mine to a solid rather than hollow tube. Going to take a lot of force to bend the solid bar. The dogs that engage 3rd gear are back cut from the factory. As I wanted to make sure I didn't have to go inside again, I had the dogs for 2nd gear back cut. Replaced all the forks with stronger items too. I think a lot of the stronger parts come the support that the Busa gearbox gets as that bike gets seriously abused in drag racing. Some 30K miles since the rebuild and not only does the gearbox still work, it works better now than it ever did from the factory. Never had any clutch judder and bike is currently on 67K miles. It's a 2013 bike so maybe Suzuki changed something? Love the bike but Suzuki, what went wrong with 2nd gear?
Jesus don't leave me now I'm going to do this next winter in OZ You must do the re-assembly for me I love this mate It is the best I've seen I can do this mod because of this vid I'm sure I'll be able to double the hole sizes as well as in the jet I'd just feel more confident having you do the re-assembly Please David
@@briandouglas1401 great to hear from you I will have no difficulty fixing this 2nd gear issue with your very good vid I need to feel 100% by having you do the reassembly I will set up a big screen in my workshop and just buckle up and do it Wonderful Brian David in Ballarat
@David Scott, I too am looking at doing this job, except I believe I have a big end bearing issue in my spare motor, and I’d like to mod a few things while I’m in the motor and box, like back cut the gears and have them re-hardened, polish inlet, outlet manifolds and crank shaft, oil jet mod, and anything else I can get done while I’m in there! Like you I’m confident doing the removal and tear down and documenting, but the rebuild worries me greatly... having a pro like @Brian. Douglas with a really helpful vid would really help, along with the manual I believe I could fix mine... The last motor I had fixed cost me over $6000...! Time to learn and save some valuable $$$ Thank you @Brian Douglas for the vids they are fantastic...
Hi Brian! Right now I'm thinking about getting an m109r and doing some research about potential problems. Your video was very helpful. I have to warn you though. It seems like you are somewhat mistaken about the gearbox lubrication system. The countershaft and driveshaft are not used as oil passages. They are lubricated through two separate jets and the oil channels lead to their needle bearing sides - the left one on the countershaft and the right one on the driveshaft. After that the oil just splashes around and drips down to the oil pan. At 50:40 you can see where the second channel starts and passes in the roller bearing seat to the driveshaft. The oil jet modification you have done allows more oil to pass to the countershaft and clutch but not the driveshaft. Although it may be that the cams on 2nd and 3rd driven gears will be lubricated better anyway - with the oil splatter from the countershaft. I wonder if all those problems happen with the unmodified clutch pull pin.
Très intéressant et instructif ce tuto. Je vois que point de vu conception c'est du sérieux ce moteur (aucune courroie) mais qu'est ce qu'il s'est donc passé pour que cette boite de vitesse ait autant morflée ? serait -ce dû au gicleur qui était bouché ? (impressionnant cette fourchette cassée ainsi que ces dent d'engrenages) Ce "bouilleur" est relativement simple à démonter. Thank you Brian, friendship from France !
I bought a 2012 M109r 2 months ago. It had 15500km on it. I have only done 1000km now I'm having this same problem. Very pissed off. I'm taking it back to the dealer to try and get them to do it under statutory warranty but I doubt they'll do it. We'll see
I'm about to buy a 2006 or 2007 M109R from a dealer and wondering if I should ask them to do this b4 I buy? Also, when this gets done, does this mean it wont happen again or did Suzuki do a recall to have it fixed permanently?
не так страшен как малюют . ну да шестеренок дохера , но зато электрики мало . ну не харли конечно , но соотносимо с хондой втх . минус один шестерни если полетят встанут в копейку. (хотя это маловероятно) nice job mexanicum respekto !
Be interesting to know what year this motor and others are that you have done and whether Suzuki modified it themselves in later engines, and how many km's before this shows as a problem.
Hi I have 09 1800 intruder 8,000 miles on it,bit concerned about the heavy clunk when putting into first gear it always done it from I got it.Have no issues with gears r clutch have check drive shaft all good if you put it in n e gear can rock the wheel about 2 inch you can hear the clunk inside engine put you in mine key way worn r clutch springs slack,your advice would be much appreciated thanks William
Hey Brian, great video. I'm curious if the seal that's next to the oil jet can be replaced without splitting the case. As mine is leaking oil from that seal. Thanks!
Hey how you doing I was trying to see where you located at I have an M109 and I have the same problem trying to see how much you charge to fix that with the second gear doing the same thing
when I start the my 2012 model m109r, the sound of rattling sound comes from the side of the clutch and as soon as you press the clutch lever, the sound stops what is the problem of the thing please help me
In reference to the second gear issue, I see what happens, the damage and potential damage… but I dont see WHY it happens… and more specifically, what is done to fix it? I am interested in getting an M109r and am able to do a rebuild on my own… I just need the info on why it happens and how to fix it. I cant imagine that second gear just pops back into the fork on its own. Are the dogs made incorrectly? Is the shift fork too wide or positioned incorrectly on the shift fork shaft?
In a nutshell it is insufficient oil to the clutch causing clunky gear change coupled with a hugely powerful engine that means something has to give. That is usually the gear engagement cutouts and selector forks. More oil at the clutch reduces the clunky gear change and it doesn’t happen again. I am still running the first engine I modified and don’t expect I will need my spare engine I have also modified.
Can I get to my transmission without dropping the whole motor out of the bike? I know the clutch can be changed but what about the shifting forks and gears?
You should have used straps. We used them on our hoist. They are rated 2500 lbs each. This looks complicated. I really like this bike but seen this makes me worried. I have a 2015 Gxsr750R I was hoping to trade for this. Due to the return being too low from the dealers, I will just keep it and hopefully tried to get this. I’ll just sell mine privately. Any advice. Iam trying to transition from sports to cruiser bikes.
How do you know the cam, piston wrist pen and crank still get sufficient oil flow? how about thinner oil, better oil pump or different pressure control valve? Do you know if 2019/ 2020 models have made changes to improve this?
hey, i am interested in is m109 and c109 using same crancshaft covers? my c109 has damaged crancshaft cover(right side) and cant find used part. does cm109 cover fits c109 ?
Good day, my name is Alexey. I am from Kazakhstan, the city of Almaty. I have an M109r in stock. The other day, oil flowed from the gearbox oil seal. I removed the gearbox and found two problems. I cannot twist the washer that closes it, this is the first problem. The second problem was detected by the backlash and noise of the bearing which is located on the motor housing. I have two questions for you: How to unscrew the washer? How to remove the sprocket and bearing to replace the bearing. Is it possible to do this without disassembling the engine?
@@bradh3292 Thanks for the answer. As a result, I had to disassemble the entire engine, this is the first time in my life. To disassemble this is half the battle, but now I don't even know how to assemble it! You don't have a video of how to assemble it correctly in what order!
if the transmission went into multiple gears wouldn't it lockup causing the wheel to lock and the bike to crash, or do the teeth always shear off before that can happen
On a smaller and lighter bike yes but this is a heavy bike and has a big fat rear tyre with heaps of traction. The bike I am repairing in the video did lock up but only after gears had broken and jammed up the other gears. The engine is just too big and powerful for the gearbox. I have heard of this happening at slow speed and the box locked up without shearing the gears but that poor bloke was on a roundabout in the rain so slow speed and reduced traction.
Just got to get some disposable income to buy the parts. two gears plus a selector fork going to set me back $400 and as i have a running engine that i have already modified its pretty low on the priority at the moment.
![เปิด อาณาจักร หมื่นล้าน "สาระตั้ม" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3XE0nPF4YkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Repair and Rebuild please Sir. Great video by the way.
Couple of things I found when rebuilding mine. You can get the cases apart if you cut down an alan key to remove the part that stops the cases coming apart and leave the flywheel/generator in place, or buy the correct puller. I ordered the puller but while it was in transit, I cut down an alan key and got the cases apart. The rod that holds the fork gets bent ever so slightly. Whilst this is hardly noticeable, it does make a difference to where the fork engages the dogs. I changed mine to a solid rather than hollow tube. Going to take a lot of force to bend the solid bar. The dogs that engage 3rd gear are back cut from the factory. As I wanted to make sure I didn't have to go inside again, I had the dogs for 2nd gear back cut. Replaced all the forks with stronger items too. I think a lot of the stronger parts come the support that the Busa gearbox gets as that bike gets seriously abused in drag racing. Some 30K miles since the rebuild and not only does the gearbox still work, it works better now than it ever did from the factory. Never had any clutch judder and bike is currently on 67K miles. It's a 2013 bike so maybe Suzuki changed something? Love the bike but Suzuki, what went wrong with 2nd gear?
vid of bike running?
Excellent video for mechanics interested in this kind of thing. Great video and narration.
Thank you sooo much for posting very good video ....more plz
Awesome video!!!! Look forward to the rebuild!
Wicked interesting man. I love this stuff! I’m riding an 08 c109rt. Clunks going into 2nd. I shift into 2nd at low rpms. Hopefully buys me some time.
Same here 08 with clunk
I would love to see the rebuild as well great information thanks
Awesome informative video. Thank you very much for your excellent instructional video.
Jesus don't leave me now I'm going to do this next winter in OZ You must do the re-assembly for me I love this mate It is the best I've seen I can do this mod because of this vid I'm sure I'll be able to double the hole sizes as well as in the jet I'd just feel more confident having you do the re-assembly Please David
Coming soon. been off youtube for a while due to job change.
@@briandouglas1401 great to hear from you I will have no difficulty fixing this 2nd gear issue with your very good vid I need to feel 100% by having you do the reassembly I will set up a big screen in my workshop and just buckle up and do it Wonderful Brian David in Ballarat
@David Scott, I too am looking at doing this job, except I believe I have a big end bearing issue in my spare motor, and I’d like to mod a few things while I’m in the motor and box, like back cut the gears and have them re-hardened, polish inlet, outlet manifolds and crank shaft, oil jet mod, and anything else I can get done while I’m in there!
Like you I’m confident doing the removal and tear down and documenting, but the rebuild worries me greatly... having a pro like @Brian. Douglas with a really helpful vid would really help, along with the manual I believe I could fix mine... The last motor I had fixed cost me over $6000...!
Time to learn and save some valuable $$$
Thank you @Brian Douglas for the vids they are fantastic...
Agreed, I would like to see the rebuild as well..!!!
Hi Brian! Right now I'm thinking about getting an m109r and doing some research about potential problems. Your video was very helpful. I have to warn you though. It seems like you are somewhat mistaken about the gearbox lubrication system. The countershaft and driveshaft are not used as oil passages. They are lubricated through two separate jets and the oil channels lead to their needle bearing sides - the left one on the countershaft and the right one on the driveshaft. After that the oil just splashes around and drips down to the oil pan. At 50:40 you can see where the second channel starts and passes in the roller bearing seat to the driveshaft. The oil jet modification you have done allows more oil to pass to the countershaft and clutch but not the driveshaft. Although it may be that the cams on 2nd and 3rd driven gears will be lubricated better anyway - with the oil splatter from the countershaft. I wonder if all those problems happen with the unmodified clutch pull pin.
🎉🎉🎉🎉
Très intéressant et instructif ce tuto. Je vois que point de vu conception c'est du sérieux ce moteur (aucune courroie) mais qu'est ce qu'il s'est donc passé pour que cette boite de vitesse ait autant morflée ? serait -ce dû au gicleur qui était bouché ? (impressionnant cette fourchette cassée ainsi que ces dent d'engrenages) Ce "bouilleur" est relativement simple à démonter. Thank you Brian, friendship from France !
What a great job and video you done thanks will pass to friends
I bought a 2012 M109r 2 months ago. It had 15500km on it. I have only done 1000km now I'm having this same problem. Very pissed off. I'm taking it back to the dealer to try and get them to do it under statutory warranty but I doubt they'll do it. We'll see
Great informative video Brian. Where are you located? Would love to have my M109R engine/gearbox rebuilt by you.
I'm about to buy a 2006 or 2007 M109R from a dealer and wondering if I should ask them to do this b4 I buy? Also, when this gets done, does this mean it wont happen again or did Suzuki do a recall to have it fixed permanently?
не так страшен как малюют . ну да шестеренок дохера , но зато электрики мало . ну не харли конечно , но соотносимо с хондой втх . минус один шестерни если полетят встанут в копейку. (хотя это маловероятно) nice job mexanicum respekto !
agreed.... I would like to see the rebuild as well..!!!
I'd love to see the rebuild with a complete parts list of every seal, ring, and hooyah that needs to be replaced
My son took the bile so i have not had the chance. Guess that's what happens when they grow up. they take your cool shit!
Great video thanks
excellent work,why does Suzuki design this way,knowing select fork and gears cause these issues?
Thank you very much
Hi I was wondering what drill bit did you use for the oil jet
Be interesting to know what year this motor and others are that you have done and whether Suzuki modified it themselves in later engines, and how many km's before this shows as a problem.
Agreed, I would very much like to see the rebuild. Thanks
Can you elaborate on doing the mods on that oil feeder pin? What size bit did you use?
Is the oil mod a permanent fix for the second gear problem?
Awesome video! Thanks
Hi I have 09 1800 intruder 8,000 miles on it,bit concerned about the heavy clunk when putting into first gear it always done it from I got it.Have no issues with gears r clutch have check drive shaft all good if you put it in n e gear can rock the wheel about 2 inch you can hear the clunk inside engine put you in mine key way worn r clutch springs slack,your advice would be much appreciated thanks William
Hey Brian, great video. I'm curious if the seal that's next to the oil jet can be replaced without splitting the case. As mine is leaking oil from that seal. Thanks!
4:16 Is that the speedo drive [3 wires] there? wondering if switching that off would allow full speed?
And I would like to see the rebuild as well
Brian any thoughts on a crowd fund to do the rebuild for all of us $5 each might get us there Any one else suggest how to raise the funds?
Hey how you doing I was trying to see where you located at I have an M109 and I have the same problem trying to see how much you charge to fix that with the second gear doing the same thing
Fantástic
thanks
when I start the my 2012 model m109r, the sound of rattling sound comes from the side of the clutch and as soon as you press the clutch lever, the sound stops what is the problem of the thing please help me
In reference to the second gear issue, I see what happens, the damage and potential damage… but I dont see WHY it happens… and more specifically, what is done to fix it? I am interested in getting an M109r and am able to do a rebuild on my own… I just need the info on why it happens and how to fix it.
I cant imagine that second gear just pops back into the fork on its own. Are the dogs made incorrectly? Is the shift fork too wide or positioned incorrectly on the shift fork shaft?
In a nutshell it is insufficient oil to the clutch causing clunky gear change coupled with a hugely powerful engine that means something has to give. That is usually the gear engagement cutouts and selector forks. More oil at the clutch reduces the clunky gear change and it doesn’t happen again. I am still running the first engine I modified and don’t expect I will need my spare engine I have also modified.
Can I get to my transmission without dropping the whole motor out of the bike? I know the clutch can be changed but what about the shifting forks and gears?
You are right, I see why Suzuki wouldn't fix this.
The m1800r/m109r/vzr1800 is one of my dream bikes but this gearbox problem puts me off. Might get a vtx1800 instead.
You should have used straps. We used them on our hoist. They are rated 2500 lbs each. This looks complicated. I really like this bike but seen this makes me worried. I have a 2015 Gxsr750R I was hoping to trade for this. Due to the return being too low from the dealers, I will just keep it and hopefully tried to get this. I’ll just sell mine privately. Any advice. Iam trying to transition from sports to cruiser bikes.
Any advice on getting the magneto off? Been at it for a while and it won’t budge.
Where are you located, and what is a fair price to have this problem fixed?
How long does it take to do a job like this?
How do you know the cam, piston wrist pen and crank still get sufficient oil flow? how about thinner oil, better oil pump or different pressure control valve?
Do you know if 2019/ 2020 models have made changes to improve this?
hey, i am interested in is m109 and c109 using same crancshaft covers? my c109 has damaged crancshaft cover(right side) and cant find used part. does cm109 cover fits c109 ?
i have to do this crazy stuff to my 06 m109r
How many people have put flat spots on the pin to let more oil in ? Shit loads! I’d say, and your saying not too?
Good day, my name is Alexey. I am from Kazakhstan, the city of Almaty. I have an M109r in stock. The other day, oil flowed from the gearbox oil seal. I removed the gearbox and found two problems. I cannot twist the washer that closes it, this is the first problem. The second problem was detected by the backlash and noise of the bearing which is located on the motor housing. I have two questions for you: How to unscrew the washer? How to remove the sprocket and bearing to replace the bearing. Is it possible to do this without disassembling the engine?
It's a right handed bolt so spin it write a Flathead to loosen it as you turn the nut that is the clutch pin
@@bradh3292 Thanks for the answer. As a result, I had to disassemble the entire engine, this is the first time in my life. To disassemble this is half the battle, but now I don't even know how to assemble it! You don't have a video of how to assemble it correctly in what order!
if the transmission went into multiple gears wouldn't it lockup causing the wheel to lock and the bike to crash, or do the teeth always shear off before that can happen
On a smaller and lighter bike yes but this is a heavy bike and has a big fat rear tyre with heaps of traction. The bike I am repairing in the video did lock up but only after gears had broken and jammed up the other gears. The engine is just too big and powerful for the gearbox. I have heard of this happening at slow speed and the box locked up without shearing the gears but that poor bloke was on a roundabout in the rain so slow speed and reduced traction.
Where ya from fella.... Sound like you from my home town 😉 great video by the way 👍
Thanks Buddy, born in Australia but brought up in Liverpool UK. Now living in Brisbane.
Brian Will you be doing re-assembly video?
Just got to get some disposable income to buy the parts. two gears plus a selector fork going to set me back $400 and as i have a running engine that i have already modified its pretty low on the priority at the moment.
@@briandouglas1401 ALL SUBSCRIBERS WE CAN DONATE $5 EACH AND BRIAN CAN DO THE REBUILD VID FOR US Come On ITS ONLY 5 FRIGGIN BUCKS
BRIAN SEND MY REPLY TO ALL SUBSCRIBERS AND SETUP WHERE TO SEND DONATIONS
@@briandouglas1401 what size drill bit did you use to make the oil jet orifices larger?
What is the year of the M109R
2008 but its a C109R
like to see the rebuild please. Gez
My fear is I have to get this done
This is from the C not the M
More More
Cool
Thank you
You are welcome
Сам по себе моторчик не сложный, но геморройная система смазки. Я бы такой мотоцикл брать не стал.