SHOP/GARAGE/ATTIC ELEVATOR WITH MOTORCYCLE LIFT ATTACHMENT

This is my elevator/motorcycle lift. I can put motorcycles in the attic along with a lot of other heavy things. I use it mainly for working on motorcycles with the lift attachment/table.
This is the short, short version of the original elevator video that's on my channel. Had a little fun with editing. Hopefully this is the beginning of better videos.
Here's the link to the original elevator video • HOMEMADE ELEVATOR with...
Here's the link to the safety latch video that shows close up shots of how it works. • Garage/shop/attic Elev...

[@164ChopShop]

I used a 1000/2000 lb electric hoist. 1000lb single line and 2000lb double line. I use the double line.
The track is made of 5 pieces of flat stock. It's the front plate with the holes for the safety latch with two other 6" flats welded to back side, the whole length, that are sandwiched between 5 studs in the wall. One stud in the middle and two on each side then bolted together all in one sandwich. I used a stud to space them when i welded those on. Then the two other straps that you see are welded to the 6" pieces going the whole length and are there for the bearings of the train to run in. Those are just screwed to the studs with small cabinet screws and they aren't really holding any weight. They are spaced back from the back side of the front plate to the size of my rollers because you need a track that will hold both directions. The top rollers will be pushing out and the lower rollers will be pushing back into the wall as it goes up and down. There are also rollers that hold the train from binding left and right that run against the sides of the front plate (upper and lower, both sides). If you don't have a safety latch this track really doesn't have to hold any weight it just has to act as a track and could be made more simple. As soon as you latch the elevator into the track it instantly has to hold all of the weight of the elevator and whatever you have on it. Kinda tough to describe. Hope this doesn't confuse the situation.
The platform is mainly all built of 2x5 1/4 wall except the front edge is 1/8 wall. There's also 2x5x1/4 internally acting like floor joists and more support for bending or flex. I would say WAY over built, but better safe then sorry. I think I figured it up one time...... at least 500 lbs.

[@jh-tech5546]

That's a great idea! Nice construction.

[@164ChopShop]

Thanks. I appreciate that!

[@kthom9864]

That lift is totally the kind of thing I need. I’m thinking of using i beam for the column along the wall just because I have some spare i beam but I’m still trying to wrap my head around your design. Any chance you could post a diagram or close up pictures of the trolley parts where you have rollers on it?
Really slick piece of equipment! Thank you for posting this!!

[@164ChopShop]

Just think of your trolley that rolls on the outer edge of your i-beam.... you need to have rollers to hold the trolley in and out... both top and bottom. You would also have to have rollers that roll on the edge of that i-beam to hold sideways movement (top left edge and right edge) both top and bottom. That way your trolley only rolls up and down. No matter where the weight is on your platform... it wont bind. Hope that kinda clears it up.

[@kthom9864]

@@164ChopShop Thanks for your reply man. Yes, I understand that I’ll need wheels giving tension on all sides and at least two trolly type setups that hold the I beam in both axes with wheels.
I guess what I’m wondering is what do you use for wheels and how do you keep them tight on the column? I’m thinking of using a seesaw lever on the wheels with a screw for adjustment of tension but not sure.
Thanks again!

[@164ChopShop]

@@kthom9864 Mine are all stationary to the trolly. Leaving very minimum clearances. Like a piece of paper thickness so they don't bind. I used sealed roller bearings for rollers. I don't have any special tools except a center punch and a regular drill press. There may be a seesaw lever situation that may keep things tighter but I think if you are accurate with your drilling there would be no reason for it. Keep the tolerances tight and it should be good. At least mine is.

[@calypsonotch3953]

This is really slick. What size shop did you build? I'm in the planning process

[@164ChopShop]

28x35 with 10 foot walls.

[@chriseads6612]

Wanted to delete my speedometer and turn signals on my 99 sportster but lost my running lights doing so any advice?

[@Mike-yd9gq]

TOOL SWING for sale yet?

[@gabe6849]

I gotta say I a bit jelly

[@164ChopShop]

😬