DIY flywheel & pressure plate (aka clutch cover) static balancing for Toyota Pickup 22RE
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ค. 2019
- This video shows how I went about balancing my LC Engineering flywheel (35 lb steel) and AISIN CTX-107 pressure plate. Out of the box, the LCE flywheel was out of balanced around 36 grams (approximately) as I remember. The clutch cover was also out of balance (about 20 grams). So, instead of drilling balancing holes into my brand new flywheel (which is really the correct way to balance everything individually), I just opted to offset the heavy point of the flywheel against the light point of the clutch cover. This left me with about 14 grams out of balance. I was able to then swap out two steel clutch bolts with two titanium bolts I had; since each Ti bolt was 5 grams less than the steel bolts, this left me with about 4 grams or so out of balance. On a 40+ lb flywheel / pressure plate assembly, that's good enough for the pickup truck.
The larger balancing cones used on the static balancer came from No Mar as I remember (for their BMW motorcycle kit). The threaded rod of the static balancer are inside of some .250 wall thickness tubes, which helps reduce deflection and also aids in rotational surface against the bearings on the static balancer. Everything is lubricated (bearings, etc.) with stanchion tube ultra low friction oil. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![Should You Reuse a Clutch, Pressure Plate and Flywheel? [DIY Resurfacing Tips]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5NaHXJ94f5c/mqdefault.jpg)
Very interesting video and your attention to detail has been amazing
Very interesting, I put a clutch in a few years ago and had small vibrations through the peddle and very light clutch chatter which annoyed me as I cleaned the fly wheel and pressure plate several times until the cloth came off clean, the chatter and vibrations got worse with age and this is a well known reliable OEM brand too but it did do 100k of delivery vehicle driving, recently bought a new one and notice there was weight pressed in on pressure plate I assumed it was for balance, got me thinking that you have to balance a wheel after a tyre change so why not a clutch and this new clutch looked like it was professionally balanced at factory, put it in and the clutch and engine is remarkably different so smooth and even smoother now it's bedded in, it's unbelievable different, this is an engine using dmf too, I went for a different brand this time that has a long history of making good clutches which I've used in the past on me old sports cars, the old clutch had worn uneven like it was warped and the old pressure plate had no weights in at all, would be interesting to see how out of balance it is, looking back now I think the old clutch had a balance issue that created uneven wear as it destroyed the slave/release bearing, when I took the gearbox off the bearing had separated from the slave carrier never seen that before how it was still working I dont know so must of been a balance issues to a point it wiggled the bearing so much to a point it's separated.
458 italia?!?!? You got Ferrari’s and imports like these little trucks. Sold
Subbed subbed subbed
Thank you for your posts my man
When I got the time imma go thru and get my learn on thank you
I have flywheel setup I'm do this on after I lathe some the backside, I've balanced mc wheels with jackstands a 3/8 long extension and a level, lucky me my pilot bearing goes in the flywheel and not the crank just like cycle wheels..
After i changed the clutch, the bearing and pressure plate on my Volvo 740 i was getting vibrations from the engine.
What could be the problem? anybody had the same issue?
hi, the balance her no is included the disc clutch correct? the disc clutch should be balancing independently for obvious reason
no disc
Would it be worth having a machine shop balance a flywheel/clutch assembly before installing?
Wouldn't hurt, although making sure your pistons and rods are balanced is probably more important. Generally the flywheel and clutch should be pretty close. I like having things down to a gram or less myself.
Definitely yes. I had a horrific imbalance issue with a Rover V8 that was eventually tracked down to a factory new pressure plate assembly that was 25 grams out of balance. The out of balance factor was enough to virtually shake the whole car uncontrollably above 3000 rpm.
Not a mystery ,
More science and mechanics
Not just anybody can do this
Doesn’t mean it’s a mystery
It means only the passionate and ALLWILLING will understand
#blood, sweat, and gears
Did you use a dial gauge to check centre?
vintage speedshop - The cones that fix the flywheel to the axis do a pretty decent job of indexing things. If you are asking if I put a dial test indicator on the edge of the flywheel to make sure it was centered to like .001" or .0005", no I didn't do that, but that's a very good idea for next time :-) Mainly the goal here was to bring the out of balance down from several ounces to more like a few grams. I forget what the final result was but I think it was like 3 grams or so. Should be okay for the pickup truck, given it's a stock motor and not a race motor or anything blueprinted, etc.
@@ray5961 The only reason i asked is the pressure plate fingers are floating and can move quite a bit 1-2mm
Do you have to do this before mounting them?
volarecantare You don't have to, but it's a good idea - it will make things smoother and last longer. From a production standpoint, it would be too expensive for a company like Toyota to blueprint and balance every motor to such accurate levels.
@@ray5961 How about logistics? Did Caterpillar do this?
Dynamically balancing is best . I'm spoiled with top of the line electronic equipment. You're likely introducing a couple unbalance countering with the p plate .
Yeah, I think you are probably correct. Ideally I would like to re-balance this entire rotating assembly, including the crankshaft. Like you say, some sort of dynamic balancer is best. Can I ask what you use and/or if there is some name you can provide so I can maybe find a video of the type of electronic equipment that is normally used in this situation?
@@ray5961 a crank balancer would likely be your best bet .your not gonna want or need to buy what I run. You could bolt up your assembly's right to the crank or a crank that could be just the tool or arbor I can say too. American Hofmann is where I work. In Va , not Germany. Shenke also makes balancers but are soft bearing, we are hard bearing , rollers that are stiffer where as soft bearing machines kinda wobble . I can get the plane separation on the height of a pressure plate on or 30.1 vertical balancer. Flywheels can only be done statically and I can get them down in the dirt , our balancer probably cost 70k. Lol.
i seee looks cool.... I was just gonna get started on my Nissan hard body truck but I gave up on gasoline motors and ride electric vehicles I'm saving $760 a month
How would a shop do this?
Usually shops have a machine that is computerized I believe, kinda like wheel balancing places for your tires. I actually looked up the patent for those machines and read up on how they work. The short answer is doing a static balance by hand is several magnitudes more accurate (at least as far as balancing wheels and tires go). The machines balance to around +/- one ounce as I remember; when I did the wheels on my motorcycle and Ferrari, I believe I got them down to a few grams (in the case of my carbon fiber motorcycle wheels, I had them down to 1/4 gram). I also spoke with a guy who has been balancing driveshafts for 20 or 30 years; he told me while they do have a machine with electronics to balance the driveshafts, he likes to do the final balance by hand, so he can feel if there are any minor vibrations. Balancing crankshafts on certain motors seems very complex from what I have seen and I still don't fully understand how they figure out exactly where to remove weight; but for stuff that is round like wheels and flywheels / clutches, this static method seems to be plenty good. I don't trust most shops to know what they hell they are doing, so usually I like doing some sort of DIY method if one can be found.
@ray5961 I'm a put to order my 2nd clutch for another project. That along with a light weight flywheel. And was looking at balancing it locally in central California. I'll have to call around the shops. But like you said. Most shop are most likely bullshitters amd will jist take the money. But I daw a price rate of $90 for it at a different shop about 3 hrs away. And I'm not too confident in balancing my self. So maybe some kind of balancing is better than none, and just take my chances locally. I'll have to paint mark exact location it needs to be bolted and see it they even deduct any weight
@@damnitdang Yeah.. the hardest part is setting up a rigid jig to do the balancing part on. I used to do a lot of motorcycle stuff, so I happened to still have my static wheel balancer handy. On my clutch, not sure if I mentioned it in the video, but I ended up using a titanium bolt or two in order to help offset the weight and achieve a good balance. Something else to remember is that 4 cylinder motors have inherent imbalances by design and their firing order, etc. so you are never really gonna be able to make your 4 cylinder feel like a perfectly balance straight 6 or V10 or V12 motor. You can perfectly balance most 4 cylinder motors and they will still have 2nd order vibrations to some degree - this is why the Toyota 3RZ-FE motor uses balance shafts. As long as you do a half way decent static balance on the flywheel w/ pressure plate attached, you should be fine.
@ray5961 ah, ok. Yes, it's a 22rte I'm actually working on. I had bought an act 350tq rated clutch.. but I will be using oem pilot and release bearing. So maybe I might not have to balance it if it's like that... I'll probably still call around and see if they can locally balance it .
@@damnitdang How do you like the ACT stuff? I'm running a 9.25" flywheel here with a slightly heavier pressure plate and a full kevlar clutch disc. From what I've seen, the ACT stuff is pretty nice.