I really appreciate all the video's you post Ray, especially this one. I have my dad's 94 since he passed; I've had the motor completely rebuilt because issues with#3 cylinder. The shop who did the rebuild enjoyed doing the work! I have a lot of friends who envy the pickup, no rust and a/c still works running on R12. BUT all of us agreed something has to be done about all the vacuum lines to clean up the appearance on the engine. I love the color diagram to help dummy down the routing of hoses, LOL. My son who is 9 yrs old can't wait to drive Grand pa's pickup; thank you for all You do...
Thanks! Yeah, when I first got my Toyota all those lines were a mystery. I remember watching videos on TH-cam and trying to figure everything out. Those hoses can be very confusing at first.
This is the most extensive video I have seen on 22RE EFI system. With the fuel regulator VSV removed, did you disconnect the wiring and if so, does it have any neg. effect on the ECM?
No, the AFM sends air volume data to the ECU which modulates the pulse width of the injectors, so it's still required. Running a vacuum line straight to the fuel pressure regulator mainly eliminates the need for the fuel up VSV and removes a couple extra hoses from the mix.
Are you in the SF Bay Area? I need s complete rebuild or if uou can recommend someone. I and another mechanic misdiagnosed and thought the head (or gasket) but turned out rings. The timing chain guide broke etc.. The motor is just tired..like me
Don't know of anyone off hand. I do all my own work here, but just on my personal stuff. Finding skilled mechanics and/or engine builders out there is not easy. Wish I had some recommendations for ya.
@@StanKindly Yea I just did the bottom end on my motor.. it's actually not all that bad. If the issue on your motor it just the rings only, you might want to consider giving it a shot yourself. With my motor, I measured the cylinder walls and they were pretty much okay. I just did a ball hone using a hone off Amazon and then bought some Keith Black pistons and total seal rings. The hardest part was getting the bearing clearances on the connecting rods measured, but realistically this is a truck motor not an F1 car. In my case, I did change to Eagle rods, but you could easily re-use the stock rods and just slap in some ARP bolts and still get away with it. I mean I drove my 22RE for thousands of miles with all the rings broken into parts and the truck ran amazing lol :) Might wanna consider giving it a shot just to get some more life out of the motor. You can always do a full rebuild / blueprint down the road if needed and/or like a +.020" over bore in the future if required. As long as your cylinder walls are in good shape, the block is probably still fine. On my motor I had a big gouge on cylinder #2 wall and all I did was run a slightly smaller ring gap to offset it - so far the motor has been doing great despite that slight flaw in there. About to run a leak down test on the motor to see how it's doing. Anyway, if you can handle a top end rebuild, you should be able to also handle slapping in new rings and pistons I'd think. You can easily drop the pan and do the job w/ the block still in the truck. It's not all that bad.
@@ray5961I was sort of planning to do the drop pan version but two things. I have more than a few Ortho problems (discs in lower back , rotator cuffs etc..). Thank God I had some help lifting the head in and out. Plus I live in apartment and really don't want to do it there in the parking lot. What tricked me and the other mechanic was there no rise in compression doing the wet test. I should have rotated 180 to look down the bad cylinder when the head was off ( but didn't want to risk losing the timing chain off of crank sprocket) but 2 and 3 looked good plus I assumed if the rings were that bad then white smoke should have been coming out of the tailpipe (but not necessarily with the new CAT) but I did smell a little oil. Number 1 only reads around 130 and the other two 150 so I really didn't have high hopes for any long distance trips - the motor is pretty tired...Anyway the rain is coming so Japan Motors was recommended and surprisingly they sell rebuilds for $2300 plus tax plus $400 core deposit. It's going to be $1900 labor. It's worth it to me, I suppose... half ton / long bed / AT...& I built a cedar camper shell with solar panel etc.. I'm surprised you are getting compression with the scored or gouged cylinder. I probably have a huge gouge - reason why the compression doesn't come up with 0:04 a wet test.
@@StanKindly Yea until you pull the pistons it's hard to say for sure. My motor has great compression but was drinking oil like it was going out of style. There are a number of videos covering all that on the channel, but bottom line was someone bored the motor .020" over but slapped STD rings on the pistons - oops.. so they all broke apart. Nevertheless, motor ran fine. The gouge on my #2 cylinder was thankfully near the top of the cylinder and only about .008" deep and maybe 6mm in length - it sits above the 2nd compression ring on the Keith Black (KB) pistons, so just going with it for now. Motor seems to be doing great and oil consumption is far, far less (but still not winning any awards). I'm going to do a leak down test shortly here, so we'll see how that all shakes out. As far as pulling the pistons out with a bad back, etc. not too horrible. I tore my rotator cuff many years ago, so I feel ya. Mainly if you can jack the front of the car up, then you can slide in under there.. use a long extension to torque the rod bolts and you're good to go. It's not has horrible as you may be thinking, once you strip the motor down. In hindsight, I think pulling the block and doing the job on an engine stand is best. I should have done that, but got lazy and didn't feel like messing with hoisting out the block... but I don't be making that mistake twice :) Anyway, if you have any questions along the way, feel free to hit me up anytime in the comments section there.
@@ray5961 i dont have a gauge to check. My motor runs really rich. Changed o2 and new afm. When i pull remove the break booster vac hose then the truck idles normal.
@@itsgatormane Sounds like maybe you have a vacuum leak in the brake booster diaphragm or hose? It's hard to say. Get yourself a vacuum gauge and tap into a line and see what your motor is pulling at 900 RPM idle - should be around 17 or 18 inches or so if all is well. I use this little gauge here and it works real well - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CODRFO
I'm not quite sure what you are asking. The EGR pipe that feeds exhaust gases into the intake system bolts to the back of the upper intake plenum - inside the plenum there is a long passage way that rungs along the roof of the plenum to the front area where the throttle body bolts up - it dumps exhaust gases into the mix there and then they are drawn into the plenum and mixed with incoming air from the induction system (AFM, etc.). Is that what you are asking about? If not, let me know and I can answer more if needed.
@@StanKindly got ya. Try installing new spark plugs right off the bat. Also, dump some Berryman B12 fuel injector cleaner in the tank - even though it's a carb, it will still help clean out the jets. Try totally blocking off the EGR system if you can.. if it leaks it will cause the engine to die. Also missing at idle can be very symptomatic of incorrectly adjusted valves. I had a slight miss when cruising and I finally traced it to a couple of valves being out of adjustment (and only about .004" out too). I'd start with spark plugs myself - fresh plugs can really make a huge difference. Also check to make sure the coil isn't cross sparking near its mounting bracket (turn the lights off in the garage, watch under the hood where the coil is and sometimes you can see sparking). Same goes for inside the underneath part of the distributor cap (on the roof in there) carbon can build up inside the cap and cause across arcing inside the cap - you might wanna take the distributor cap off and wipe the inside with carb cleaner on a white paper towel and see if that helps (check the roof closely for signs of arcing first though.. sometimes you can see the carbon pathways.. they look like little black hairs in there). Good luck and let me know if you have any luck or further questions. Run a compression check also if possible.
![How Toyota EGR Modulator works [Everything you need to know!]](/img/n.gif)
I really appreciate all the video's you post Ray, especially this one. I have my dad's 94 since he passed; I've had the motor completely rebuilt because issues with#3 cylinder. The shop who did the rebuild enjoyed doing the work! I have a lot of friends who envy the pickup, no rust and a/c still works running on R12. BUT all of us agreed something has to be done about all the vacuum lines to clean up the appearance on the engine. I love the color diagram to help dummy down the routing of hoses, LOL. My son who is 9 yrs old can't wait to drive Grand pa's pickup; thank you for all You do...
Thanks man! My daughter is 12 and I've been teaching her to drive stick on my truck over here :)
This was the video weve all been waiting for. Very detailed information thank you
Nothing feels better than to get those crazy VSV's off the valve cover, let me tell ya.
Exceptionally detailed video. Thank you very much for such high quality content.
Hard to find details like this, thanks for sharing what you learned.
Thanks! Yeah, when I first got my Toyota all those lines were a mystery. I remember watching videos on TH-cam and trying to figure everything out. Those hoses can be very confusing at first.
very good informative video. thank you for taking the time to do this. big fan of your channel
Thanks!
Been waiting for this for awhile!!!! Great info as always!
Thanks!
This is the most extensive video I have seen on 22RE EFI system. With the fuel regulator VSV removed, did you disconnect the wiring and if so, does it have any neg. effect on the ECM?
No negative effects. You can just cut off the connector on the harness and seal the wires so they don't touch anything.
3:39 Does running manifold vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator negate the need for the AFM to control mixture?
No, the AFM sends air volume data to the ECU which modulates the pulse width of the injectors, so it's still required. Running a vacuum line straight to the fuel pressure regulator mainly eliminates the need for the fuel up VSV and removes a couple extra hoses from the mix.
@@ray5961 I see. Thank you!
Im not running an Ac but do have power steering, can i route all the whose's like you did?
yes but without the idle up the motor might want to stall when doing full lock turn, but I'm not
sure
Awesomeness!!!!!
Are you in the SF Bay Area? I need s complete rebuild or if uou can recommend someone. I and another mechanic misdiagnosed and thought the head (or gasket) but turned out rings. The timing chain guide broke etc..
The motor is just tired..like me
Don't know of anyone off hand. I do all my own work here, but just on my personal stuff. Finding skilled mechanics and/or engine builders out there is not easy. Wish I had some recommendations for ya.
@@ray5961thanks anyway. I could deal with the top end but low end...whole different story 😮
@@StanKindly Yea I just did the bottom end on my motor.. it's actually not all that bad. If the issue on your motor it just the rings only, you might want to consider giving it a shot yourself. With my motor, I measured the cylinder walls and they were pretty much okay. I just did a ball hone using a hone off Amazon and then bought some Keith Black pistons and total seal rings. The hardest part was getting the bearing clearances on the connecting rods measured, but realistically this is a truck motor not an F1 car. In my case, I did change to Eagle rods, but you could easily re-use the stock rods and just slap in some ARP bolts and still get away with it. I mean I drove my 22RE for thousands of miles with all the rings broken into parts and the truck ran amazing lol :) Might wanna consider giving it a shot just to get some more life out of the motor. You can always do a full rebuild / blueprint down the road if needed and/or like a +.020" over bore in the future if required. As long as your cylinder walls are in good shape, the block is probably still fine. On my motor I had a big gouge on cylinder #2 wall and all I did was run a slightly smaller ring gap to offset it - so far the motor has been doing great despite that slight flaw in there. About to run a leak down test on the motor to see how it's doing. Anyway, if you can handle a top end rebuild, you should be able to also handle slapping in new rings and pistons I'd think. You can easily drop the pan and do the job w/ the block still in the truck. It's not all that bad.
@@ray5961I was sort of planning to do the drop pan version but two things. I have more than a few Ortho problems (discs in lower back , rotator cuffs etc..). Thank God I had some help lifting the head in and out. Plus I live in apartment and really don't want to do it there in the parking lot. What tricked me and the other mechanic was there no rise in compression doing the wet test. I should have rotated 180 to look down the bad cylinder when the head was off ( but didn't want to risk losing the timing chain off of crank sprocket) but 2 and 3 looked good plus I assumed if the rings were that bad then white smoke should have been coming out of the tailpipe (but not necessarily with the new CAT) but I did smell a little oil. Number 1 only reads around 130 and the other two 150 so I really didn't have high hopes for any long distance trips - the motor is pretty tired...Anyway the rain is coming so Japan Motors was recommended and surprisingly they sell rebuilds for $2300 plus tax plus $400 core deposit. It's going to be $1900 labor. It's worth it to me, I suppose... half ton / long bed / AT...& I built a cedar camper shell with solar panel etc..
I'm surprised you are getting compression with the scored or gouged cylinder. I probably have a huge gouge - reason why the compression doesn't come up with 0:04 a wet test.
@@StanKindly Yea until you pull the pistons it's hard to say for sure. My motor has great compression but was drinking oil like it was going out of style. There are a number of videos covering all that on the channel, but bottom line was someone bored the motor .020" over but slapped STD rings on the pistons - oops.. so they all broke apart. Nevertheless, motor ran fine. The gouge on my #2 cylinder was thankfully near the top of the cylinder and only about .008" deep and maybe 6mm in length - it sits above the 2nd compression ring on the Keith Black (KB) pistons, so just going with it for now. Motor seems to be doing great and oil consumption is far, far less (but still not winning any awards). I'm going to do a leak down test shortly here, so we'll see how that all shakes out. As far as pulling the pistons out with a bad back, etc. not too horrible. I tore my rotator cuff many years ago, so I feel ya. Mainly if you can jack the front of the car up, then you can slide in under there.. use a long extension to torque the rod bolts and you're good to go. It's not has horrible as you may be thinking, once you strip the motor down. In hindsight, I think pulling the block and doing the job on an engine stand is best. I should have done that, but got lazy and didn't feel like messing with hoisting out the block... but I don't be making that mistake twice :) Anyway, if you have any questions along the way, feel free to hit me up anytime in the comments section there.
Have any ideas for having to much vacum?
How much vacuum are you seeing?
@@ray5961 i dont have a gauge to check. My motor runs really rich. Changed o2 and new afm. When i pull remove the break booster vac hose then the truck idles normal.
@@itsgatormane Sounds like maybe you have a vacuum leak in the brake booster diaphragm or hose? It's hard to say. Get yourself a vacuum gauge and tap into a line and see what your motor is pulling at 900 RPM idle - should be around 17 or 18 inches or so if all is well. I use this little gauge here and it works real well - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CODRFO
So the EGR pipe itself goes into the intake between cylinders 2 & 3 like on the earlier models?
I'm not quite sure what you are asking. The EGR pipe that feeds exhaust gases into the intake system bolts to the back of the upper intake plenum - inside the plenum there is a long passage way that rungs along the roof of the plenum to the front area where the throttle body bolts up - it dumps exhaust gases into the mix there and then they are drawn into the plenum and mixed with incoming air from the induction system (AFM, etc.). Is that what you are asking about? If not, let me know and I can answer more if needed.
@@ray5961 Yes, the older carb type looks like they run it directly into the intake manifold between 2 & 3
...cylinder 4 is missing at idle and trying to troubleshoot that.
@@StanKindly I don't have much experience on the older carb motors.. but could very well be yeah
@@StanKindly got ya. Try installing new spark plugs right off the bat. Also, dump some Berryman B12 fuel injector cleaner in the tank - even though it's a carb, it will still help clean out the jets. Try totally blocking off the EGR system if you can.. if it leaks it will cause the engine to die. Also missing at idle can be very symptomatic of incorrectly adjusted valves. I had a slight miss when cruising and I finally traced it to a couple of valves being out of adjustment (and only about .004" out too). I'd start with spark plugs myself - fresh plugs can really make a huge difference. Also check to make sure the coil isn't cross sparking near its mounting bracket (turn the lights off in the garage, watch under the hood where the coil is and sometimes you can see sparking). Same goes for inside the underneath part of the distributor cap (on the roof in there) carbon can build up inside the cap and cause across arcing inside the cap - you might wanna take the distributor cap off and wipe the inside with carb cleaner on a white paper towel and see if that helps (check the roof closely for signs of arcing first though.. sometimes you can see the carbon pathways.. they look like little black hairs in there). Good luck and let me know if you have any luck or further questions. Run a compression check also if possible.
Why is there no sound.
There's sound in the video.