Did you know that you can also make hand throws from house electrical switches? Actually cheaper. Note that an on/ off switch is spring loaded to either direction. Using a cheap plastic electrical box drill a hole through the bottom of the box and drill 2 small holes in the handle of the switch one above the other. Run an wire from the handle through the bos to your track throw and the other to the side of the table underneath and you now have a push pull handle (usually inset the handle in from the side of the table so it does not get bumped. If you have a switch that is not lined up for a straight rod to the table side then glue 2 old CD.s together and mount under the table, Link the switch to the CD, then run tanother rod to the side of the table. Your CD is now a change of direction for your push pull rod to the side of the table. One last thing If you use a 3 way switch instead of a standard on/off you now have a circuit to throw the frog power of your track switch to the proper power for that rail for the direction you want to go. Dollars cheaper than even a single hand throw from the hobby shop. This was in a model Railroader Magazine back as many as 10 years ago.(don't remember the year but is was a Jan or Feb Issue. I added the three way switch for the circuit. This is great where you don't need electric switch motors. Newman Atkinson
@@paulfairweather9977 What if hes new???!!!! You had to learn! Dont insult him, when you probably had the exact same question once, and even if you didn't, he does! Dont insult him.
Im going to be building a small railroad that should prominently fit on 4x8 give or take and is using bachmann ez track fine because i am new to this and I saw most people using hornby like track
I have heard of issues with the rails on EZ track coming out of the trackbed. Regular track (like Atlas SnapTrack) is personally my favorite and go-to. While doing roadbed and joiners can be a bit of a pain, there's more of a variety of specialty pieces for more custom track arrangements and is definitely more economical. Regular track also allows you to use insulated joiners if you want to isolate certain sections of track (like a passing siding) and power-feeder joiners, which are easier to conceal and you're not left with the terminal-rerailer track if you're shooting for a more realistic effect. Now if you ever wanted to expand from your 4x8, regular track would definitely be the way to go since it can be easily cut to a specific size (I recommend Xuron track cutters) than the Bachmann EZ track or LifeLike PowerLoc. Hope this helps if it wasn't too late
There are several factors in building a railroad layout. One place I discovered that successfully combines these is the Jareks hobby club (google it if you're interested) it's the most incredible blueprint that I have ever seen. look at all the extraordinary info .
Using flex track like you said is wonderful until the flex track joint is on a curve. I now will solder the joints to another flex track while it is straight, now when you flex the track the rail continues to evenly bend the radius you want it to be as one longer solid rail. If you don't do this, a standard slip fit at the joint will do this to your track work. Flex track always wants to go back to straight and therefore a non soldered joint, the joint will try to flex back to straight and thereby you will see a distinct jog in the rail at the joint, don't believe me then run a camera down the rails at the joint in the curve, that jog will show up every time. The glues he was using are good but are not as forgiving if you need to reset the track because it did not come out right. I got away from the yellow glues and a tough caulking or a caulk gun glue. I now use Apex caulk sold at most house stores and lightly spread the apex caulk (and I use the clear) to set cork and the track as well. A thin coat goes a long way If you make a mistake or decide that was not what you wanted to do, or even change your design later, then just slide a thin spatula or puddy knife under the flex track and in about 3 passes the track is up and ready to relay. Do the same with your cork road bed. It too is reusable. I have gotten away from the use of small nails and harder glues and Apex caulk is forgiving and holds well. It will also hold firm to your plastic mountain premolded forms where other glues will not. It usually sets enough in about 20 minutes that you can continue with what you are doing. yet days weeks or years when you want to make a change you can do so easily. Newman Atkinson from Terre Haute Indana
@@subron14 Gary I hope you the best with your track laying. I have learned much of what not to do from my own mistakes and I will admit them. Putting track down with nails, Well I hit the nail too hard and it pulls the tie down and in many cases that tie will pull the rails toward each other for the big squeeze of your wheels. Finding about the rail joint pulling to make a jog in the rail in your curves well that is like a jogged real rail from expansion of the rail in heat of the day on real tracks. That really is a possibility. That is one of the possible causes of the derailment of the empire builder in Montana the other day that they are looking at as a possible cause. the expansion in the rails causing a bow in the rail. You can get that on your model railroad if your joints are too tight and you have high temperature changes like in your garage that is not constant temperature. I have a friend that connected flex track to the rail going into a switch and the connection is angled different than the solid switch rail. Again that was flex track trying to straighten out. A video camera rolling down the track can catch that and I could see that on my video of my friend's layout. They show up very well with the camera looking ahead straight down the track. I turned to the Apex caulk (get the clear. It is white going on and dries clear) very forgiving and easy to get track and roadbed up without damage. Regular glues causes the flex track to not flex well when reinstalling and is also hard to get up If nails are in the roadbed to your sub road bed they are in in the way to scrape the roadbed up. Also regular glue will cause roadbed to not flex anymore or cause it to come apart when pulling it up. Very seldom do I use small nails except to help an end of a flextrack that might pull and not stay aligned say at a cut joint that is not connected because you might have a walk through gate that has to move. I also use 9 inch sectional track across a module joint where in will at some point need to come apart say to move someday. I hope some of this helps. Always available to help if you need it. Newman
Am I the only one that coats the roadbed with glue, attaches the track, and ballasts it in one operation? I paint the roadbed gray first, mark the track out, and then mask point areas before the glue. Remove the tape and attach the track and dump ballast everywhere. When the glue is dry, I just vacuum up the loose ballast and then fine tune it and detail.
Woodland Scenic's has a sound deadening Road bed for N scale Ho and O . It's pretty good . They at one time also had large sheets for switching yards and staging areas . As you saw in the video he ran the track bed and track right up to the edge . Never ever do that for " Modular Layouts " . There's a higher chance of Derailment . Leave an area to allow for a Crossover section of track to spanned the gap . But still bring the road bed to the edge . The track section doesn't have to be very long just from one road bed to the next ( approx 1 - 1 1/2 inch should do ). This simple step will take into account any slight difference between " Private " and " Club " modular sections . I've had to make this Improvement for several clubs , that were plagued with derailments . 61 and still plays with trains .🚂🚂🚂🚂🚂🚂🚅🚅🚅🚅🚅🚅🚅
Fat Chungus Yea but a lot of people who have used cork board don't realise that even under all that work cork turns brittle and to powder after time especially if it's in dry conditions like here in the desert of Nevada
I see you glue the cork trackbed down with "yellow glue". What is the effect on running noise ? I have experimented with all sorts of systems, but as soon as I glue the track to the base, whatever it is, I get significantly more track noise than if the tack is just pinned. This even applies to my current higher level tack area which uses foam risers to which I glue 1/4 inch balsa wood strip, then add some quite dense self adhesive carpet underlay foam on top of the balsa, and then on top of that the usual thick cork trackbed you show. Laying the track on top of this combination gives very nice, quiet running so you can hear the progress of a train over the track joints clearly, but as soon as I glue the trackdown to the cork bed, the sound volume increases dramatically. I have tried various different adhesives, such as Gorilla glue, PPPVA, Copydex and even foam adhesive, but all seem to amplify the track sound levels to a level I would prefer NOT to have. Trying to pin the track to this trackbed combination does not really fix the track down firmly,, although it does stop the niose transfer. Any ideas or suggestions ?
I have used only Woodland Scenics foam roadbed.Glued to extruded foam base not wood and nailed track down only. It is quieter but I haven't ballasted the track so it might be only slightly quieter.Like you this is only solution to the problems with noisy rails.
Ian Turner I have OSB or plywood subroadbed, a layer of foam, next track or cork roadbed, depending on mainline versus yard for example. None of my operators have ever mentioned any noise.
+Ian Turner There are several components to diy railroad layouts. One plan I discovered that succeeds in merging these is the Jareks Hobby Club (check it out on google) it's the most incredible resource that I've heard of. Check out all the great info .
I\'m not sure but ,if anyone else is searching for ho trains with sound try Corbandy HO Scale Crusher ( search on google ) ? Ive heard some awesome things about it and my work buddy got excellent results with it.
the cork will harden with time. stuff needs to stay soft to deaden vibration, so (get with the times) use PU foam and an adhesive that will remain pliable. the craft stores sell the foam in 3/32" thick sheets- for a few bucks you can line your entire pike with it. rtv silicone would be fine. the track tie assembly is hard plastic- a hardening glue is okay for that. a water-base glue (like elmers carpenter glue) will let you easily reclaim the track when its time to rebuild. you can push-pin the track down while the goop sets up. if you insist on using sectional track for curves and straights then you will probably want to do some soldering. i use flex so i don't need to solder anything. soldering is a waste of time and ruins track pieces/burns your fingers. our club layout has 12 miles of trackage (it has 42 feeder wire pairs) and NONE of it is soldered- no failures. i build large layouts and use a maximum of 12 track joints per feeder, and have NEVER had any conductivity problems- another one of model trains' big fallacies. you're talking up to 21 feet (in N scale) per feeder wire pair. can the soldering iron and spend the money on Atlas' wired joiners instead. and if you are using used track, BE ON THE LOOKOUT FOR LOOSE/DAMAGED JOINERS. replace them with new- never smash them down with pliers- you'll end up replacing them (with a lot more work later on). very important! most importantly, have fun and let your kid learn stuff on his own. part of the fun for you is learning right along with him. don't put yourself out too much- he might chuck it all for play station gaming next week! if that happens- YOU'RE NOT ALONE!!
I'm a beginner, have been watching many TH-cam videos in order to learn the "tricks of the trade" of layout design. This will be most likely a 4'x8' bench for my 9 year old son to operate. We have acquired quite a bit of track and trains (ho gauge) used from a friend. Could you/someone please explain the purpose of the cork roadbed? I've seen some guys fasten/nail track directly to a plywood base, use cork, attach sheet foam to the bench top, and different combinations of all three. Of the dozens of videos I've watched geared toward beginners I've found none that cover this topic. I wonder if it's so basic that people that know what their doing take it for granted that some of us are truly beginners. My plan so far is a 4'x8' plywood base with a 2" foam sheet over that so I can "dig" some contour below grade for a stream, etc. then build up from grade for mountains/hills/tunnel etc. please keep in mind that this will be our first endeavor (into possibly a life long hobby for my son) so I'm not too concerned with perfection. And for now will be used more as a toy than a true "model". I know this statement makes some of you guys cringe, but the time for more advanced track layout/modeling can come later. Also what is the purpose of ballast on the track? Is this for aesthetics only or does it serve a function? Thanks in advance for advice.
Hello. What a great note. Elevated roadbed on a real railroad serves a purpose as drainage for the track. Ballast stabilizes the track and allows for the drainage. On a model railroad, cork roadbed serves not only a scenic purpose, but was used as a sound deadener over the plywood surface before the days of foam. Your plan to “dig” relief into your 2” foam is a good one. You can use a hot knife. I firmly believe that model railroading is a wonderful hobby and sharing the creativity and fun of designing and building your miniature empire with your son can be a life-long memory. Let me know if I can help you with any other questions.
can the cork AND the topography..... foam is light years ahead of any cork and it doesn't fall apart. if you want to 'dig' you can do a diorama for practice. new flex track is always preferred over used stuff- especially if you weren't the one who did the using. used sectional track is fine to save money, but you want stuff that wasn't abused. the finer the gauge (and the shorter the rail height), the easier it is to screw up. sometimes damage isn't so apparent when it comes to track- inspect thoroughly including measuring the gauge with a track gauge or wheelset. ballast in and under real track provides a better way for the substrate to conform to and evenly support the track ties. in modeling the ballast makes the scene look more natural and the track more situated.
New to the hobby and wanting to help my stepdad build a layout he will be happy with. We had been considering track with integrated bedding as opposed to laying cork. Any reasons why this would be a bad idea?
Un sueño,hecho realidad personal,compartido...nuestra tradición navideña el 25 de Dic,esperamos la llegada de San Nicolás cargado de Juguetes, mi papá se equivocó y le puso mi tren a mi hermana, ...SE ACABO LA TRADICION... NUNCA VOLVIO SAN NICOLAS...ABRAZO CORDIAL
Hi Jesse, Yes. Cork will definitely help and give you that roadbed look as well. For ballasting, I’d recommend that you use matte medium as it dries a bit rubbery and will help muffle the sound. Let me know how you make out. Douglas Model Railroad Academy
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Good video & idea's. I like to use clear or black silicone on my track lay down. If I want a different layout it comes up pretty easy with a sharp blade and cleanup is a breeze. 🚂🚃🚃🚃
I like to use a clear, brush-on oil base sealer that you can buy in a half pint size at your local home improvement store. Anything water base could warp your wood. Sometimes it’s a good idea to seal the inside as well.
Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. I would be happy to send your question off to the experts. To get started, please send the email associated with your paid membership account. Thanks!
His track work and video are extremely informative. I use DAP instead of the foam adhesive. He spreads the adhesive with a putty knife. That is important. I flip my track upside down and slip an exact knife btwn ties and rails to be able to slip in rail joiners. I solder curves before securing with adhesive. I also paint track on workbench after giving it a test fit. The extra step gets it right the first time. Take your time.
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Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. I would be happy to send your question off to the experts. To get started, please direct message me the email associated with your paid membership account. Thanks!
Using Standard DC the volts are 12 volts for HO Scale. For DCC the volts are a bit more about 16 volts or so. Under DCC the power is really going to your DCC Computer chip in your engine andthe chip now powers the motors as needed. The disadvantage to that the older type bulbs will tend to burn out quicker. I have a few that I need to change to LEDs myself. Under DCC the chip runs your motor not you The chip is your source to control the engine Yes you are telling the chip what to do but the chip controls the motor, lights and sound as it needs. Newman Atkinson
I could have bought a home in Columbus Ohio that came with a massive professionally built model train layout, but my Wife didn’t want to move . CBS News did a feature on this Railroad Layout
Hi Ruger, I like to use matte medium from the art supply store. You can use weights or long pins to hold the track in place until the medium is dry. Douglas Model Railroad Academy
There are a few factors in diy railroad layouts. One plan I found which succeeds in merging these is the Jareks hobby club (google it if you're interested) it's the most useful resource that I've seen. look at all the unbelievable info .
Never glue the rail if you have a big temperature swing in your railroad room. The rail will expand and pop out of the sleepers. It can also cause gage variation that can cause derail.
As a new train hobbyist, the advise was superb. Thank you so much!
Great tutorial!
Caboose Industries makes great switch throws and in many styles, can be used with electrical machines or as manual throw's.
I bought the Caboose Ind. manual throws for reachable spots on my layout. They work terrific & look good too...
Did you know that you can also make hand throws from house electrical switches? Actually cheaper. Note that an on/ off switch is spring loaded to either direction. Using a cheap plastic electrical box drill a hole through the bottom of the box and drill 2 small holes in the handle of the switch one above the other. Run an wire from the handle through the bos to your track throw and the other to the side of the table underneath and you now have a push pull handle (usually inset the handle in from the side of the table so it does not get bumped. If you have a switch that is not lined up for a straight rod to the table side then glue 2 old CD.s together and mount under the table, Link the switch to the CD, then run tanother rod to the side of the table. Your CD is now a change of direction for your push pull rod to the side of the table. One last thing If you use a 3 way switch instead of a standard on/off you now have a circuit to throw the frog power of your track switch to the proper power for that rail for the direction you want to go. Dollars cheaper than even a single hand throw from the hobby shop. This was in a model Railroader Magazine back as many as 10 years ago.(don't remember the year but is was a Jan or Feb Issue. I added the three way switch for the circuit. This is great where you don't need electric switch motors. Newman Atkinson
When laying track, should I put it straight on the wood, or put down a layer of foam first?
Wood should never be used for anything but SUB-roadbed. Foam all the way!
It depends, foam is typically ideal for modeling grade changes, etc. I'd say foam tho, bc its more workable and less noisy.
Johnathan McLaren you suck
@@paulfairweather9977 What if hes new???!!!! You had to learn! Dont insult him, when you probably had the exact same question once, and even if you didn't, he does! Dont insult him.
@@cuppajoe2 we all we at the point at one time or another
I dont likr gluing it down just incase that there any problem
Im going to be building a small railroad that should prominently fit on 4x8 give or take and is using bachmann ez track fine because i am new to this and I saw most people using hornby like track
Hello, I think Bachmann EZ track is fine.
I have heard of issues with the rails on EZ track coming out of the trackbed. Regular track (like Atlas SnapTrack) is personally my favorite and go-to. While doing roadbed and joiners can be a bit of a pain, there's more of a variety of specialty pieces for more custom track arrangements and is definitely more economical. Regular track also allows you to use insulated joiners if you want to isolate certain sections of track (like a passing siding) and power-feeder joiners, which are easier to conceal and you're not left with the terminal-rerailer track if you're shooting for a more realistic effect. Now if you ever wanted to expand from your 4x8, regular track would definitely be the way to go since it can be easily cut to a specific size (I recommend Xuron track cutters) than the Bachmann EZ track or LifeLike PowerLoc. Hope this helps if it wasn't too late
There are several factors in building a railroad layout. One place I discovered that successfully combines these is the Jareks hobby club (google it if you're interested) it's the most incredible blueprint that I have ever seen. look at all the extraordinary info .
Not useful to me. Mentions distances and codes, but does not mention the scale they a working in.
The technique can be applied to any scale the distance and codes can be drastically different depending on what scale you are using
Using flex track like you said is wonderful until the flex track joint is on a curve. I now will solder the joints to another flex track while it is straight, now when you flex the track the rail continues to evenly bend the radius you want it to be as one longer solid rail. If you don't do this, a standard slip fit at the joint will do this to your track work. Flex track always wants to go back to straight and therefore a non soldered joint, the joint will try to flex back to straight and thereby you will see a distinct jog in the rail at the joint, don't believe me then run a camera down the rails at the joint in the curve, that jog will show up every time. The glues he was using are good but are not as forgiving if you need to reset the track because it did not come out right. I got away from the yellow glues and a tough caulking or a caulk gun glue. I now use Apex caulk sold at most house stores and lightly spread the apex caulk (and I use the clear) to set cork and the track as well. A thin coat goes a long way If you make a mistake or decide that was not what you wanted to do, or even change your design later, then just slide a thin spatula or puddy knife under the flex track and in about 3 passes the track is up and ready to relay. Do the same with your cork road bed. It too is reusable.
I have gotten away from the use of small nails and harder glues and Apex caulk is forgiving and holds well. It will also hold firm to your plastic mountain premolded forms where other glues will not. It usually sets enough in about 20 minutes that you can continue with what you are doing. yet days weeks or years when you want to make a change you can do so easily. Newman Atkinson from Terre Haute Indana
Thank you! great information for newbie.
@@subron14 Gary I hope you the best with your track laying. I have learned much of what not to do from my own mistakes and I will admit them. Putting track down with nails, Well I hit the nail too hard and it pulls the tie down and in many cases that tie will pull the rails toward each other for the big squeeze of your wheels. Finding about the rail joint pulling to make a jog in the rail in your curves well that is like a jogged real rail from expansion of the rail in heat of the day on real tracks. That really is a possibility. That is one of the possible causes of the derailment of the empire builder in Montana the other day that they are looking at as a possible cause. the expansion in the rails causing a bow in the rail. You can get that on your model railroad if your joints are too tight and you have high temperature changes like in your garage that is not constant temperature. I have a friend that connected flex track to the rail going into a switch and the connection is angled different than the solid switch rail. Again that was flex track trying to straighten out. A video camera rolling down the track can catch that and I could see that on my video of my friend's layout. They show up very well with the camera looking ahead straight down the track. I turned to the Apex caulk (get the clear. It is white going on and dries clear) very forgiving and easy to get track and roadbed up without damage. Regular glues causes the flex track to not flex well when reinstalling and is also hard to get up If nails are in the roadbed to your sub road bed they are in in the way to scrape the roadbed up. Also regular glue will cause roadbed to not flex anymore or cause it to come apart when pulling it up. Very seldom do I use small nails except to help an end of a flextrack that might pull and not stay aligned say at a cut joint that is not connected because you might have a walk through gate that has to move. I also use 9 inch sectional track across a module joint where in will at some point need to come apart say to move someday.
I hope some of this helps. Always available to help if you need it. Newman
Am I the only one that coats the roadbed with glue, attaches the track, and ballasts it in one operation? I paint the roadbed gray first, mark the track out, and then mask point areas before the glue. Remove the tape and attach the track and dump ballast everywhere. When the glue is dry, I just vacuum up the loose ballast and then fine tune it and detail.
Woodland Scenic's has a sound deadening Road bed for N scale Ho and O . It's pretty good . They at one time also had large sheets for switching yards and staging areas .
As you saw in the video he ran the track bed and track right up to the edge . Never ever do that for " Modular Layouts " . There's a higher chance of Derailment . Leave an area to allow for a Crossover section of track to spanned the gap . But still bring the road bed to the edge . The track section doesn't have to be very long just from one road bed to the next ( approx 1 - 1 1/2 inch should do ). This simple step will take into account any slight difference between " Private " and " Club " modular sections . I've had to make this Improvement for several clubs , that were plagued with derailments .
61 and still plays with trains .🚂🚂🚂🚂🚂🚂🚅🚅🚅🚅🚅🚅🚅
Yes but at a higher cost than just cork sheets you can cut yourself for alot less.
Fat Chungus
Yea but a lot of people who have used cork board don't realise that even under all that work cork turns brittle and to powder after time especially if it's in dry conditions like here in the desert of Nevada
Thank you just getting into the hobby I appreciate this
Thanks, why you did not push the car to travel free, see if it was accurate.
You helped it.🤔!
As a new train hobbyist, the advise was superb. Thank you so much!
I wish the internet and TH-cam were available 40 years ago when I was building model railroads.
Tv's were but I guess that does not help
There were channels about model railroading
Sorry never use adhisive to put track down. Track nails and remove them after you bsllast.
Atlas makes wonderful flex-track ends, cut the first and last 4 ties off, slip on the track end, it allows for smooth joiners.
Cork is inexpensive really its really expensive 😂
Great Video. I wan't aware that Working Turnout Throws were actually available: I thought I'd have to improvise by making my own.
Throws are cool but you can make these turnouts operable by using the new Walthers Layout control system
@@AbelG8781 But we like manual!!
Thank you ! Excellent tutorial.
I see you glue the cork trackbed down with "yellow glue". What is the effect on running noise ? I have experimented with all sorts of systems, but as soon as I glue the track to the base, whatever it is, I get significantly more track noise than if the tack is just pinned.
This even applies to my current higher level tack area which uses foam risers to which I glue 1/4 inch balsa wood strip, then add some quite dense self adhesive carpet underlay foam on top of the balsa, and then on top of that the usual thick cork trackbed you show.
Laying the track on top of this combination gives very nice, quiet running so you can hear the progress of a train over the track joints clearly, but as soon as I glue the trackdown to the cork bed, the sound volume increases dramatically. I have tried various different adhesives, such as Gorilla glue, PPPVA, Copydex and even foam adhesive, but all seem to amplify the track sound levels to a level I would prefer NOT to have.
Trying to pin the track to this trackbed combination does not really fix the track down firmly,, although it does stop the niose transfer.
Any ideas or suggestions ?
I have used only Woodland Scenics foam roadbed.Glued to extruded foam base not wood and nailed track down only. It is quieter but I haven't ballasted
the track so it might be only slightly quieter.Like you this is only solution to the problems with noisy rails.
Ian Turner I have OSB or plywood subroadbed, a layer of foam, next track or cork roadbed, depending on mainline versus yard for example. None of my operators have ever mentioned any noise.
+Ian Turner
There are several components to diy railroad layouts. One plan I discovered that succeeds in merging these is the Jareks Hobby Club (check it out on google) it's the most incredible resource that I've heard of. Check out all the great info .
I\'m not sure but ,if anyone else is searching for ho trains with sound try Corbandy HO Scale Crusher ( search on google ) ? Ive heard some awesome things about it and my work buddy got excellent results with it.
the cork will harden with time. stuff needs to stay soft to deaden vibration, so (get with the times) use PU foam and an adhesive that will remain pliable. the craft stores sell the foam in 3/32" thick sheets- for a few bucks you can line your entire pike with it. rtv silicone would be fine. the track tie assembly is hard plastic- a hardening glue is okay for that. a water-base glue (like elmers carpenter glue) will let you easily reclaim the track when its time to rebuild. you can push-pin the track down while the goop sets up. if you insist on using sectional track for curves and straights then you will probably want to do some soldering. i use flex so i don't need to solder anything. soldering is a waste of time and ruins track pieces/burns your fingers. our club layout has 12 miles of trackage (it has 42 feeder wire pairs) and NONE of it is soldered- no failures. i build large layouts and use a maximum of 12 track joints per feeder, and have NEVER had any conductivity problems- another one of model trains' big fallacies. you're talking up to 21 feet (in N scale) per feeder wire pair. can the soldering iron and spend the money on Atlas' wired joiners instead. and if you are using used track, BE ON THE LOOKOUT FOR LOOSE/DAMAGED JOINERS. replace them with new- never smash them down with pliers- you'll end up replacing them (with a lot more work later on). very important! most importantly, have fun and let your kid learn stuff on his own. part of the fun for you is learning right along with him. don't put yourself out too much- he might chuck it all for play station gaming next week! if that happens- YOU'RE NOT ALONE!!
I'm a beginner, have been watching many TH-cam videos in order to learn the "tricks of the trade" of layout design. This will be most likely a 4'x8' bench for my 9 year old son to operate. We have acquired quite a bit of track and trains (ho gauge) used from a friend. Could you/someone please explain the purpose of the cork roadbed? I've seen some guys fasten/nail track directly to a plywood base, use cork, attach sheet foam to the bench top, and different combinations of all three. Of the dozens of videos I've watched geared toward beginners I've found none that cover this topic. I wonder if it's so basic that people that know what their doing take it for granted that some of us are truly beginners. My plan so far is a 4'x8' plywood base with a 2" foam sheet over that so I can "dig" some contour below grade for a stream, etc. then build up from grade for mountains/hills/tunnel etc. please keep in mind that this will be our first endeavor (into possibly a life long hobby for my son) so I'm not too concerned with perfection. And for now will be used more as a toy than a true "model". I know this statement makes some of you guys cringe, but the time for more advanced track layout/modeling can come later. Also what is the purpose of ballast on the track? Is this for aesthetics only or does it serve a function? Thanks in advance for advice.
Hello. What a great note. Elevated roadbed on a real railroad serves a
purpose as drainage for the track. Ballast stabilizes the track and
allows for the drainage. On a model railroad, cork roadbed serves not
only a scenic purpose, but was used as a sound deadener over the plywood
surface before the days of foam. Your plan to “dig” relief into your 2”
foam is a good one. You can use a hot knife. I firmly believe that
model railroading is a wonderful hobby and sharing the creativity and
fun of designing and building your miniature empire with your son can be
a life-long memory. Let me know if I can help you with any other
questions.
can the cork AND the topography..... foam is light years ahead of any cork and it doesn't fall apart. if you want to 'dig' you can do a diorama for practice. new flex track is always preferred over used stuff- especially if you weren't the one who did the using. used sectional track is fine to save money, but you want stuff that wasn't abused. the finer the gauge (and the shorter the rail height), the easier it is to screw up. sometimes damage isn't so apparent when it comes to track- inspect thoroughly including measuring the gauge with a track gauge or wheelset. ballast in and under real track provides a better way for the substrate to conform to and evenly support the track ties. in modeling the ballast makes the scene look more natural and the track more situated.
New to the hobby and wanting to help my stepdad build a layout he will be happy with.
We had been considering track with integrated bedding as opposed to laying cork. Any reasons why this would be a bad idea?
Wow well done. Great vid, wish you all the best with your channel. Barry.
Good work.
Gracias, desde Venezuela, Sur América, por la valiosa información para ejecutar mi sueño.
principios y realidades de la vida......
BUENO en realidad es un sueño compartido con tres, con Dios Primero (ENKY),con un hijo de mi mismo nombre y conmigo mismo ....Amen
Un sueño,hecho realidad personal,compartido...nuestra tradición navideña el 25 de Dic,esperamos la llegada de San Nicolás cargado de Juguetes, mi papá se equivocó y le puso mi tren a mi hermana, ...SE ACABO LA TRADICION...
NUNCA VOLVIO SAN NICOLAS...ABRAZO CORDIAL
MAS,SINCERO....SUEÑO.....IMPOSIBLE
All of this advice is way to complicated :/
Wait now I get it, kinda.
Will the track cork work on bigger track like o gauge. Will it cut down on noise ?
Hi Jesse,
Yes. Cork will definitely help and give you that roadbed look as well. For ballasting, I’d recommend that you use matte medium as it dries a bit rubbery and will help muffle the sound. Let me know how you make out.
Douglas
Model Railroad Academy
@@ModelRailroadAcademy thank you I will try that where would I find that rail bed on line or at train shop ?
Easy to follow and I like flexitrak
are there any other options than cork?
Hello! Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is for members of our online community. I would be happy to send your question off to the experts. To get started, please send the email associated with your paid membership. Thanks!
great video!
Good video & idea's.
I like to use clear or black silicone on my track lay down. If I want a different layout it comes up pretty easy with a sharp blade and cleanup is a breeze.
🚂🚃🚃🚃
I like to use a clear, brush-on oil base sealer that you can buy in a half pint size at your local home improvement store. Anything water base could warp your wood. Sometimes it’s a good idea to seal the inside as well.
if i may ask , do you actually glue the roadbed down and the track instead of nailing, ?? i love your video , alot of info
Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. I would be happy to send your question off to the experts. To get started, please send the email associated with your paid membership account. Thanks!
Thanks a Lot,
His track work and video are extremely informative. I use DAP instead of the foam adhesive. He spreads the adhesive with a putty knife. That is important. I flip my track upside down and slip an exact knife btwn ties and rails to be able to slip in rail joiners. I solder curves before securing with adhesive. I also paint track on workbench after giving it a test fit. The extra step gets it right the first time. Take your time.
James Peters
/
//
Soldering track joiners is a complete suicide mission for the structural integrity. Especially for those layouts in non-AC controlled environments
So the cork is the ballast, or do you put the ballast on top of the cork?
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THANK YOU FOR VIDEO
Nice video. Just wondering what size plywood do you suggest?
Well, most folks start with the classic 4x8 plywood and gap on from there.
@@ModelRailroadAcademy Thanks i know i didnt mention thickness. Im going to go with 1/2".
@@railcar123 yes 1/2 is always minimal but effective....less than that and you're only asking trouble...
@@AbelG8781 thx
Does it smoke? I’m new to N scalw
What gauge wire do you use for power to the track?
For most model railroad applications, 18 gauge is fine.
14 gauge for bus and 18-22 for feeder....HO scale of course
scale doesn't matter- think in terms of amperage....
Cool superb
👏
H
👍
Thank you!
[youre, welcome.@@ModelRailroadAcademy
from where you get these amazing tracks?
Hi Edd,
The track is an Atlas product
Douglas
Model Railroad Academy
What’s the name of the glue at 3:50 front the Tube?
Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. I would be happy to send your question off to the experts. To get started, please direct message me the email associated with your paid membership account. Thanks!
@@ModelRailroadAcademy LOL are you nuts? I pay for a answer about glue? Thanks for nothing. Railroaders are one family, as long as you pay for? 🤮
Thanks for the info and suggestions.
You bet!
Great share! Might I ask how many volts are run on HO Scale, under-the-table bus lines? And, what voltage are the track rails? Many Thanks!!!
Generally you would be using 12 to 16 volts.
Using Standard DC the volts are 12 volts for HO Scale. For DCC the volts are a bit more about 16 volts or so. Under DCC the power is really going to your DCC Computer chip in your engine andthe chip now powers the motors as needed. The disadvantage to that the older type bulbs will tend to burn out quicker. I have a few that I need to change to LEDs myself. Under DCC the chip runs your motor not you The chip is your source to control the engine Yes you are telling the chip what to do but the chip controls the motor, lights and sound as it needs. Newman Atkinson
Why Aren’t Women into Model Railroading ?
Always been a man thing. Men just like machines!
some are heard of Kathy Millet (The Queen of Scenery)
I could have bought a home in Columbus Ohio that came with a massive professionally built model train layout, but my Wife didn’t want to move . CBS News did a feature on this Railroad Layout
how do you attach the track to pink foam board (to get away from the flat look)? do you nail or glue?
Hi Ruger,
I like to use matte medium from the art supply store. You can use weights or long pins to hold the track in place until the medium is dry.
Douglas
Model Railroad Academy
@@ModelRailroadAcademy- thanks very much!
Where do you get the "turnout throws"? Please could you post the manufacturer and catalog number? Thanks.
They look like Caboose Industries #106S throws. If you need a lot I suggest
large hobby shop to order a 10 pack or try Ebay!
Where did you get those point levers from? the only ones ive seen are for gauge O.
Hi Graham,
The point levers should work for any scale. The linkage may be adjusted for the amount of throw.
Douglas
Model Railroad Academy
The price is 4
Long
Thank you!
What is sodder?
Well, solder in a lead/tin product that is heated to create a strong and
electrically conductive joint between two metallic materials.
I love Lionel,0:54
What "Lionel"?? There is no "Lionel" here.
There are a few factors in diy railroad layouts. One plan I found which succeeds in merging these is the Jareks hobby club (google it if you're interested) it's the most useful resource that I've seen. look at all the unbelievable info .
Never glue the rail if you have a big temperature swing in your railroad room. The rail will expand and pop out of the sleepers. It can also cause gage variation that can cause derail.
terenfro1975 Then what should I use?
so at your place the rail expands much more than the benchwork or tie assembly..... ok
@@tommurphy4307 hes right though....temperature can screw things in the long run
Love how these so-called "experts" spout advice, but never offer solutions.
I made the mistake of using a powered staple gun to attach the track. KABLAM! Little black bits of crossties flew everywhere.
Dirt Rusty
Cork is way to thick resulting in track sitting to high to be realistic
Incorrect. Many places ballasted rail sits between 2-2.5 feet above the roadbed.
It matters where you are modeling at
Cork can be bought as thin as 1 mm, which is good for yards. Check a craft supply store.
Is there no place we can escape trump?
get a life
You can move out of the country.