Thanks for posting this. I learned that a "suitcase" connector is much easier to use then what I was doing. (stripping and wrapping with electrical tape) and more soldering tips.
Many thanks for the demo, you helped me in a big way, been Struggling with this all day and ruined two 18" radius tracks. Again thanks a million. I am new at this
@pburr917 Thanks for the kind words. I run DCC and yes the buss wires go directly to to power source for the DCC unit. My layout is 5 years old now and as you can see I move very slow. The only advice I have for you is have fun while doing it. If it becomes anything more than fun you need to take a few days off and come back to it later. Good luck!
Hey, good of you to show videos for any newbies out there!! Let's keep encouraging more new hobbyists, that way the MFRs will keep having good sales, and will be making more goodies for all of us! One suggestion, just for "looks": Have you tried using a smaller gauge, AWG 20 or 22, just for the rails, then feed through the sub-roadbed, connect to 18 AWG, then to your bus wires? Reason, you can flatten the 20, drill thru a tie, and solder..it will look like a tie-plate. Trim plastic spike off.
Don't forget OO scale in your title. It will open the video up to the rest of the world. This is something you must do when running the amazing Hornby Live Steam trains. Maybe in the USA you don't know about this system. Sadly it's no longer available but totally awesome to witness. The Hornby Live Steam sets now pull massive money online.
Can't thank you enough for this short, professional video. I haven't laid an inch of track yet - doing my homework first. Thought - I'm guessing - other than soldering each feeder directly to the bus (runs away screaming) the suitcase connectors are the best compromise. I call it a compromise because I suspect there is a voltage drop due to the minimal metal to metal contact you get with the suitcase connectors. The only other alternative would be to use multi screw (?) buss bars, but running each feeder 3 feet to the bar would mean more resistance. (I tend to way over think things) Just thought I'd ask about it. I could easily check it out with a voltmeter...
You do have a good make soldering pencil, I really like Weller. Have a Weller soldering station myself ; do yourself a flavor and get some more (a variety) of style tips. A smaller chisel tip would be better for what you are doing. As you mentioned but did not show, I also think it is better to have some solder on the tip before starting. Also, I would never use abrasive sandpaper on the tops of the rails, they create scratches which then collect dirt and crud. Use a track cleaning block to clean off excess solder.
James Brock it is always preferred operation, to “tin” a soldering iron before use and to frequently clean the tip and re-tin as your work proceeds. Best not to load solder on the iron and then transfer it to your intended joint.
@NJBritton Yes, if you are using a DCC system you should have a thicker gauge wire for your buss (I use 14 gauge) then run smaller gauge wires ( I use 18 gauge). If you solder the rail joiners then I would say to solder a feeder wire every 6 feet or so, if you aren't soldering the rail joiners then every piece of track. Thanks!
The choice is yours. You can choose to have sections on breakers or switches to shut down a particular area using plastic joiners to seperate or you can connect the entire layout with metal rail joiners as well.
that's considered 'other stuff'.....you buy 'hobby' stuff at a hobby store. they basically double the mark-up on the 'other stuff' for people who like to waste their hard-earned cash.
@NJBritton You won't have to wire every piece of track if you are soldering the rail joiners. I recommend a feeder wire every 6 feet. You need two wires, one for each rail. I'm not sure what you mean when asking about wires to a point.
I like to 'mass produce' a bunch of feeder wires by cutting wire pieces to a length I think will reach the bus at any point, stripping and tinning them in a batch process. I get better with a little rehearsal practice and i get to do it at my workbench. What I wonder about is the power rating of your obviously effective soldering iron, and what about the scolding you always get about being sure to 'heat your work not the solder'? I loved the suggestion of the cotton balls because when I try to just heat the rails I melt some plastic often.
I notice when you used the Scotchlock connectors that you had stripped the insulation and tinned the wire. This is the reason you had trouble crimping the scotch lock down. Scotchlocks are designed as "insulation displacement " connectors. There is no need to strip the insulation and it is not a good idea to tin the wire as this causes the wire to become stiff and thicker making it much harder to crimp the scotchlock connector. The notches in the blade of the connector can be stretched too far and result in a loose connection.
Hi, Many thanks indeed for that simple but very instructive tutorial. I apologise for the number of them but there are some questions that your video has raised. Please bear in mind, that I'm a total novice, when it comes to laying model railroad track. My questions are as follows:- 1) Why do you need 'feeder wires' around a layout & from what do you power the feeder wires, with? 2) Is there any recommended spacing between the feeders? 3) Your track is mounted on what looks to be a very nice looking, sound-deadening, corky-type mount of some kind, that no doubt you will eventually cover with ballast after painting the rails & 'ties' (we happen to call them 'sleepers' here in England). Please could you give me the makers name for the corky-looking track underlay & do you happen to know if it's available in N Scale, as well as HO? I would also love to know what sort of paint you will eventually use on the ties & rails (I'm guessing the chosen paint, needs to have a minimal effect, on the conductivity of the rails?). Cheers, Andrew
Regarding the cork underlay, just do a Google search for N scale or HO scale cork underlay or, if you want the underlay just for the track, do a search for N scale or HO scale cork Track underlay. You should get plenty of vendor hits like that. You can also do the search in eBay. They also make a foam underlay which many people think is a better sound deadening option. Some people use both together. If you want foam underlay, just do one of the searches above and substitute the word foam instead of cork. 6 to 8 feet between feeders is a good idea, although it's not always necessary.
Thanks for posting this video. I’m new to this and would like to start a layout. When you run the bus line what do you do with the end that is not connected to your power supply?
Good clip. I think I would have soldered the feed wires to the track at the track join instead of two inches away. That way you are setting up a good feed to two sections of track at a time and not having two solder locations. Keep up the good work.
Great video, this is probably the first video Ive seen that actually makes sense to me. A lot of the other videos assume you know how to do it and just make it more confusing. The only question i have is, do the bus lines go directly to your controller? are you using dc or dcc. If you could get back that would be great, I'm beginning to build my own layout
@NJBritton Ok, well you don't want a short that's for sure. What you call a point I know as a turnout. I use turnouts with isolated frogs so wire them as you do an ordinary track. If your throw bars are metal this may cause a problem. You can use an insulated rail joiner to isolate the turnout from the rest of the layout.
I wouldn't solder all my gaps. I have done that in the past once, and on a hot summer day all my tracks looked like spaghetti. Be sure to keep the gaps and solder a short wire to shortcut your rail connectors. You will keep reliable connections and your copper/newsilver rails can expand. (sorry if my english is bad)
@tnttrains Yeah i will solder all the track and connect all feeders to each piece of track, is there any special thing you need to do when doing wires to a point?? do you need to do 4 wires, or just 2??
Have yet to start out with a layout but am researching the wiring as I suspect it will be where a lot of problems usually start. So...do the buss wires come directly off of the transformer? I know this is basic wiring and I am mechanically inclined but I understand plumbing much more than electrical!
so the main 2 wires 14 gauge run down under the track and connect directly to the controller? then the 18 gauge wires get connected to diffrent points to it?
are you using stranded wire or solid wire....i`m new to more of the wiring sides of things and am building an all new ho layout. also rubbing alcohol to clean joints...huh cool,helpful video..thank you! i`am also using signals from BLMA and details west...im in for a haul.
It forms a better bond with flux. The electical solder that I use does have flux in it already. I would recommend that you use the type of solder that I show or a solder with additional flux. Just make sure that you are not messy with it and clean after you are done with alcohol.
Use a micro-brush to apply flux only where you want it. The flux will keep it from being a "cold solder" joint that can easily fail with expansion and contraction with heat and cold weather. Also, I'd avoid sanding the rails unless ABSOLUTELY necessary as it creates micro scratches that arc as the pickup wheels roll on them. That just makes for more cleaning and maintenance down the road. If you have to sand, you can burnish by rubbing a wooden block on the rails afterward (helps to smooth down any scratches)
Nice soldering but notice that this method of joining rail joiners also joins the track which loses any possibility of expansion caused by temperature changes. . In most cases I think it would be best to solder droppers to rail and not the the joiners. (fish plates for the tech term) All the best John
Nice video and I'm glad there is something like the Scotch Lock (sp?) - I was wondering what would be the easiest way to connect feeders to the bus. Do you have to strip a small section of your bus to expose the wire or is that the point of the Scotch Lock - when you clamp down it penetrates the plastic protective coating of the wire?
You said need new tip, as you get through soldering you can clean the tip with sand paper or sanding block, by cleaning sides and tip t will heat quicker and more evenly
hi i am a newbie at this i dont know what ( buz wire is also were does the power come from an y u need to do this for . is this for dcc and lighting also as a newbie plz tell me most thing that i need for 3 main line an fiddle yard will have 3 run off .hope u can help me on how or what i need to do this . plz help me if can thank you
No I guess it is not, but it eliminates the need for putting excess amounts of solder on the track. With a tinned wire, all you really need to put it to the rail is heat.
Im new to the whole train thing, and i have been told to do this, and i now know how to do it lol.... the only question i have is i am using a digital setup and have two wires that come out the back of the Controller to one track piece, should i replace these wires and make longer ones and connected the buses etc to the Main Wire and connect to each piece of track??
Thank you, I’m an Electrician, and you had a perfect description to solder it solidly in place. Well done.
Thanks for posting this. I learned that a "suitcase" connector is much easier to use then what I was doing. (stripping and wrapping with electrical tape) and more soldering tips.
Many thanks for the demo, you helped me in a big way, been
Struggling with this all day and ruined two 18" radius tracks. Again thanks a million. I am new at this
@pburr917 Thanks for the kind words. I run DCC and yes the buss wires go directly to to power source for the DCC unit. My layout is 5 years old now and as you can see I move very slow. The only advice I have for you is have fun while doing it. If it becomes anything more than fun you need to take a few days off and come back to it later. Good luck!
Hey, good of you to show videos for any newbies out there!! Let's keep encouraging more new hobbyists, that way the MFRs will keep having good sales, and will be making more goodies for all of us!
One suggestion, just for "looks": Have you tried using a smaller gauge, AWG 20 or 22, just for the rails, then feed through the sub-roadbed, connect to 18 AWG, then to your bus wires? Reason, you can flatten the 20, drill thru a tie, and solder..it will look like a tie-plate. Trim plastic spike off.
767Captain hope your right, but 150% is a ice profit they just can’t resist.
Appreciate you keeping it simple for us rookies.
Really helpful, appreciate your generosity in sharing your skills and experience.
Great video. Never soldered before but it looks pretty straight forward! The power of You Tube!
Best method I have seen so far.
Awesome work!!!! Very helpful. I would like to see you wiring a tortoise motor that includes the motor wires, and the wiring for the frog and rails.
Good video . I am looking at soldering my track and this was quite helpful
Great video & soldering tip, thanks! You are very meticulous in your presentation!
Don't forget OO scale in your title. It will open the video up to the rest of the world. This is something you must do when running the amazing Hornby Live Steam trains. Maybe in the USA you don't know about this system. Sadly it's no longer available but totally awesome to witness. The Hornby Live Steam sets now pull massive money online.
@cordaleb I would solder a feeder every 6 feet regardless of the size of the layout.
Can't thank you enough for this short, professional video. I haven't laid an inch of track yet - doing my homework first. Thought - I'm guessing - other than soldering each feeder directly to the bus (runs away screaming) the suitcase connectors are the best compromise. I call it a compromise because I suspect there is a voltage drop due to the minimal metal to metal contact you get with the suitcase connectors. The only other alternative would be to use multi screw (?) buss bars, but running each feeder 3 feet to the bar would mean more resistance. (I tend to way over think things) Just thought I'd ask about it. I could easily check it out with a voltmeter...
IDig A. Pony thanks! I haven’t tried those methods but haven’t had any issues with the suitcase jumper.
@@danw210 once I get up and running I'll do some testing with the multimeter and get back to you...
Thanks!
You do have a good make soldering pencil, I really like Weller. Have a Weller soldering station myself ; do yourself a flavor and get some more (a variety) of style tips. A smaller chisel tip would be better for what you are doing. As you mentioned but did not show, I also think it is better to have some solder on the tip before starting. Also, I would never use abrasive sandpaper on the tops of the rails, they create scratches which then collect dirt and crud. Use a track cleaning block to clean off excess solder.
James Brock it is always preferred operation, to “tin” a soldering iron before use and to frequently clean the tip and re-tin as your work proceeds. Best not to load solder on the iron and then transfer it to your intended joint.
Loading the iron tip with solder helps to transfer the heat to the tip. It will not harm anything.
@NJBritton Yes, if you are using a DCC system you should have a thicker gauge wire for your buss (I use 14 gauge) then run smaller gauge wires ( I use 18 gauge). If you solder the rail joiners then I would say to solder a feeder wire every 6 feet or so, if you aren't soldering the rail joiners then every piece of track. Thanks!
The choice is yours. You can choose to have sections on breakers or switches to shut down a particular area using plastic joiners to seperate or you can connect the entire layout with metal rail joiners as well.
@CircusFreakGRITZ - The main buss wire is 14g house wire. The feeder wire is 18g stranded wire from Wire Works. I get it from my local hobby shop.
that's considered 'other stuff'.....you buy 'hobby' stuff at a hobby store. they basically double the mark-up on the 'other stuff' for people who like to waste their hard-earned cash.
@NJBritton You won't have to wire every piece of track if you are soldering the rail joiners. I recommend a feeder wire every 6 feet. You need two wires, one for each rail. I'm not sure what you mean when asking about wires to a point.
I like to 'mass produce' a bunch of feeder wires by cutting wire pieces to a length I think will reach the bus at any point, stripping and tinning them in a batch process. I get better with a little rehearsal practice and i get to do it at my workbench. What I wonder about is the power rating of your obviously effective soldering iron, and what about the scolding you always get about being sure to 'heat your work not the solder'? I loved the suggestion of the cotton balls because when I try to just heat the rails I melt some plastic often.
This is very helpful, I'm just starting out so I'm trying building a layout with DCC. Thank you!
Great Video!!! Well done. Great technique!
Yes! Just make sure to sand the joint smooth and clean it with alcohol.
@HODiver There is no need to strip the buss wire. The "suitcase jumper" will penetrate the insulated coating on the wire.
Good Job! Was wondering why you didn't attach the power wires at the track joiners while you were soldering those?
I notice when you used the Scotchlock connectors that you had stripped the insulation and tinned the wire. This is the reason you had trouble crimping the scotch lock down. Scotchlocks are designed as "insulation displacement " connectors. There is no need to strip the insulation and it is not a good idea to tin the wire as this causes the wire to become stiff and thicker making it much harder to crimp the scotchlock connector. The notches in the blade of the connector can be stretched too far and result in a loose connection.
What thickness or cork are you using under your track.
Thank you for the video, I am new to soldering, so any help is very useful 👍🏻
Hi, Many thanks indeed for that simple but very instructive tutorial. I apologise for the number of them but there are some questions that your video has raised. Please bear in mind, that I'm a total novice, when it comes to laying model railroad track. My questions are as follows:-
1) Why do you need 'feeder wires' around a layout & from what do you power the feeder wires, with?
2) Is there any recommended spacing between the feeders?
3) Your track is mounted on what looks to be a very nice looking, sound-deadening, corky-type mount of some kind, that no doubt you will eventually cover with ballast after painting the rails & 'ties' (we happen to call them 'sleepers' here in England). Please could you give me the makers name for the corky-looking track underlay & do you happen to know if it's available in N Scale, as well as HO? I would also love to know what sort of paint you will eventually use on the ties & rails (I'm guessing the chosen paint, needs to have a minimal effect, on the conductivity of the rails?).
Cheers,
Andrew
Regarding the cork underlay, just do a Google search for N scale or HO scale cork underlay or, if you want the underlay just for the track, do a search for N scale or HO scale cork Track underlay. You should get plenty of vendor hits like that. You can also do the search in eBay. They also make a foam underlay which many people think is a better sound deadening option. Some people use both together. If you want foam underlay, just do one of the searches above and substitute the word foam instead of cork. 6 to 8 feet between feeders is a good idea, although it's not always necessary.
Excellent video, cheers from the UK.
Thanks for posting this video. I’m new to this and would like to start a layout. When you run the bus line what do you do with the end that is not connected to your power supply?
Just tape the end or use a wire nut.
Good clip. I think I would have soldered the feed wires to the track at the track join instead of two inches away. That way you are setting up a good feed to two sections of track at a time and not having two solder locations. Keep up the good work.
Great video, this is probably the first video Ive seen that actually makes sense to me. A lot of the other videos assume you know how to do it and just make it more confusing. The only question i have is, do the bus lines go directly to your controller? are you using dc or dcc. If you could get back that would be great, I'm beginning to build my own layout
Hi I was just wondering could you do a video about how you control your trains and how to wire the remote to get it all to work cheers
first visit to your site - thanks for the info - very easy to follow and informative - now How do I do this?
@NJBritton Ok, well you don't want a short that's for sure. What you call a point I know as a turnout. I use turnouts with isolated frogs so wire them as you do an ordinary track. If your throw bars are metal this may cause a problem. You can use an insulated rail joiner to isolate the turnout from the rest of the layout.
I wouldn't solder all my gaps. I have done that in the past once, and on a hot summer day all my tracks looked like spaghetti. Be sure to keep the gaps and solder a short wire to shortcut your rail connectors. You will keep reliable connections and your copper/newsilver rails can expand. (sorry if my english is bad)
Do you solder the tracks for better connection? I am installing a track and sometimes the current does not go thru the whole track. What am I doing?
@tnttrains Yeah i will solder all the track and connect all feeders to each piece of track, is there any special thing you need to do when doing wires to a point?? do you need to do 4 wires, or just 2??
Have yet to start out with a layout but am researching the wiring as I suspect it will be where a lot of problems usually start. So...do the buss wires come directly off of the transformer? I know this is basic wiring and I am mechanically inclined but I understand plumbing much more than electrical!
The buss wires do in fact come right off the transformer. Good luck to you!
I have never tried that but what a great idea!
@modeltrainteen95 - The larger the number the smaller the wire, so the buss wires (14gauge) are bigger than the feeder wires (18gauge) .
Great job.. thanks for sharing and keep up the great work... Lance
Thanks for the great instructions. Joe
Great share! Might I ask how many volts are run on HO Scale, under-the-table bus lines? And, what voltage are the track rails? Many Thanks!!!
Bump
@tnttrains As in a point, were the train changes from one line to another?? or a switch or whatever you call it
Rosin in the core is flux. Flux is your friend if you choose the correct type for the job at hand.
so the main 2 wires 14 gauge run down under the track and connect directly to the controller? then the 18 gauge wires get connected to diffrent points to it?
totally straightened me out thank you tytyty i was doing it all wrong
Thank you. You make it look so easy.
are you using stranded wire or solid wire....i`m new to more of the wiring sides of things and am building an all new ho layout. also rubbing alcohol to clean joints...huh cool,helpful video..thank you! i`am also using signals from BLMA and details west...im in for a haul.
You need a device called "helping hands" designed for your troubled soldering of wires lol
Any Tips on Soldering Joiners & Feeder Wires to N GAUGE, without Melting the Rail Ties/Sleepers ?
Have you looked at "Resistance Soldering"? it's the Bee's Knee's for this type of work.
Good video but I don't get why feeders are required? My layout only uses one feeder wire for 3 mainlines and I have no problems.
ok like dc do you have to put plastic rail joiners between each drop of feeders or do you not use plastic rail joiners at all on your entire layout?
It forms a better bond with flux. The electical solder that I use does have flux in it already. I would recommend that you use the type of solder that I show or a solder with additional flux. Just make sure that you are not messy with it and clean after you are done with alcohol.
Use a micro-brush to apply flux only where you want it. The flux will keep it from being a "cold solder" joint that can easily fail with expansion and contraction with heat and cold weather.
Also, I'd avoid sanding the rails unless ABSOLUTELY necessary as it creates micro scratches that arc as the pickup wheels roll on them. That just makes for more cleaning and maintenance down the road. If you have to sand, you can burnish by rubbing a wooden block on the rails afterward (helps to smooth down any scratches)
Nice soldering but notice that this method of joining rail joiners also joins the track which loses any possibility of expansion caused by temperature changes. . In most cases I think it would be best to solder droppers to rail and not the the joiners. (fish plates for the tech term) All the best John
how much can it expand? a few thousands? why worry about that?
@sambear0 I know that flux can be affective but I have never had great success with it. Thanks for commenting!
Thank for posting this video I have Learned a lot for you and this video so thank you
Great video. Are you using solid or stranded wire? It's difficult to tell from the image.
Hello there 1st off great vid... Quick Question when you solder the track together do you need to do that on every bit that joins together cheers
Also curious
Is it a good idea to solder feeder wired even though the rails are soldered?
I've just started building H scale train set. How many tracks need to be wired? Is it so many feet or how many trains you run?
@kilian76 I use the type that accept 12-14g for the buss and 18-22 for the feeder.
@cordaleb I would run solder a feeder every 6 feet regardless of the size of the layout.
if you do that (our club layout has a feeder every two flex sections) you don't need to solder at all except to make the feeders...
How far apart do you put feeder wires on track?
@tnttrains does that mean that the buss wire is not as large as the standard wire
Nice video and I'm glad there is something like the Scotch Lock (sp?) - I was wondering what would be the easiest way to connect feeders to the bus. Do you have to strip a small section of your bus to expose the wire or is that the point of the Scotch Lock - when you clamp down it penetrates the plastic protective coating of the wire?
great you answered your own question.....
Nice video! Hey is that stranded or solid wire your using for the feeders? Thanks!
Once you do this process though how do you know which wire goes to which wire to feed properly
No flux on the rail joiner soldering?
so do u only soder wires to the track if its a big layout
Do u have to add feeder wires if u have blocks around the layouts???
I use solid for the main buss and stranded for the feeders.
Nicely done video and very informative!
Thanks a ton for the tips! Just getting started on the wiring now!
what i also mean is i did what you did in the video and it just didn't work out as well. Does the alchol cause a rust so=pot or something?
@MrBarukG - Thanks! I am using stranded wire.
Can I use solder to close gaps in my rail connections?
I would try to solder that joint again. the alcohol just neutralized the flux and evaporates.
Great video Thanks for sharing
thanks for the video now i now how to wire my layout the good way
You said need new tip, as you get through soldering you can clean the tip with sand paper or sanding block, by cleaning sides and tip t will heat quicker and more evenly
Don Rogers yes thank you. I do that as well.
can this be done with old solder and without flux
Killer how to video! I may try this technic in O scale.:)
Can you use Thermite?
tnttrains as you’ve already soldered the rail joiner why not add the feeders there?
hi i am a newbie at this i dont know what ( buz wire is also were does the power come from an y u need to do this for . is this for dcc and lighting also as a newbie plz tell me most thing that i need for 3 main line an fiddle yard will have 3 run off .hope u can help me on how or what i need to do this . plz help me if can thank you
So you soldered tracks that weren’t put together?
No I guess it is not, but it eliminates the need for putting excess amounts of solder on the track. With a tinned wire, all you really need to put it to the rail is heat.
Thanks for the instructions.
Is tinning the wire absoultey necessary
@socialstudies7 Thanks for the comments!
At what length do you give supply to tracks from the bus... eery track or a perticular length say 2 feet or something...
About every 5-6 feet.
@hoserseventwo I'm not sure. Maybe 22guage? I've always been an HO guy.
@mandela901 - Thanks! I would like to see that too, lol. I have never done that.
Great presentation. Thanks for posting.
Im new to the whole train thing, and i have been told to do this, and i now know how to do it lol.... the only question i have is i am using a digital setup and have two wires that come out the back of the Controller to one track piece, should i replace these wires and make longer ones and connected the buses etc to the Main Wire and connect to each piece of track??
im new to this... but how would i make a bus? any video links tobmakeing a bus would be apreciated