When I built my portable HO modules I used foam with a wood frame to keep them light. I used Elmer's white glue for everything. That was more than ten years ago. Nothing has come loose. Rain, snow, and extreme temperature changes has not affected them at all.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Hi Ron, left a message on your Patreon page that you probably never saw but not a problem. Just wanted to know if you had any Scale Train brand locomotives, if so, wanted to get your opinion on them. The reviews seem good but those aren’t your trusted reviews.
@@ronaldjoyce7374 I really like them. In fact I have a review video of some scaletrains locomotives coming up. I've reviewed some locomotives and covered hoppers in the past.
I just realized I've been watching these videos for two years, and they have helped me with choosing locomotives, doing scenery, and so much else. Joined the channel today just to support you a little. :)
Ron I to lay my track on foam. Matter of fact my whole layout is on foam over ply. Great update and nice to see you running again. Keep having fun, Chris
I've glued cork and track to styrofoam with yellow wood glue .It works fine. I like your cutting off spike detail and not the ties. Another good video.
I use Woodland Scenics foam roadbed applied with PVA glue that is pinned with pushpins. I've had to revise trackwork and it was as simple as wetting the PVA, waiting 10-15 min and using a putty knife to lift the switches/track right up! The PVA glue sets hard and secure.
Hi Ron, just wanted to say "Great channel", thanks for sharing all those great tips . I'm pretty new to the hobby, I had a layout using ez track but decided to make a new layout using code 83 snap track and boy I quickly realized it was much harder than it looks, I find your videos very helpful and helps promote the hobby. I can see how alot of people can quit when they don't see the results they hoped for. Anyhow I really appreciate what you do. I'm in the middle of making a new layout and when there's a topic I want to look up I've found your content very informative. Peter.
So glad to see train's running again!! Thank you for the many tip's of using foam. I have used foam by itself with great success,but it was a small shelf test type layout. I connected the track to the foam with track nails since I knew it was temporary. Wishing you and your's a very Merry Christmas
Hey! Great video! You've hit on some very important and noteworthy points here! Unfortunately for me, TH-cam wasn't here when I did my first layout, 2002. Now for the question! I am laying down extruded foam insulation board for my sub roadbed. I noticed you waited until you laid your track to paint it. I wanted to completely paint it with flat latex paint, before I lay down any track. Would the paint cause issues with the cork roadbed sticking properly or even staying glued down? Just curious.
You mentioned fixing the track directly to the foam as well. Are there any downsides with that? In my mind the extra thickness of the cork in N scale looks much too big and I’m thinking that just ballasting over the (too tall) N scale ties is “enough” without any cork. But if the cork helps for other reasons? Also (if I may) when you did the wiring here did you take any steps to avoid the PVC wire sheaths “leeching” into the foam, like funnelling them through plastic conduits.
Interesting video as usual. I glue cork and track to foam with Elmers Glue All. Been in place for many years with no problems. Easy to unglue if I need to move it.
I hav been laying track on foam for at least 20 years, when I would tell people I would be looked at like I had 3 heads. Now it’s the norm. Who knew about making videos, not me obviously cause between this and so many other ideas I could have been rich by now. Ok if I my do not glue your track down until your plan is in stone. You can just pin it with small nails till you’re set and happy with your plan. When you are completely satisfied then ballast your track , it’s not going anywhere. In fact if you do need to make changes it’s quite difficult to take up track and if you’re in N scale like me you’ll be replacing sections of track. Use a basic ballast method the glue will adhere much harder to the foam then it does to wood. All those steps of latex caulk in not necessary. Foam is great for one important reason, you need no power tools to do anything. I’ve built many model railroads for my self and for others. Even for O gauge but for that you should go over a basic plywood. My next build will be on TH-cam.
Actually, one wheel was derailed before it got to the turnout, thus the jump. unfortunately I didn't see it until I was far along in editing. As for a short, it didn't cross connect the rails, thus no short.
thanks ron! though i am an ho/oo modeller and you are an n scale modeller, this should help me with "ballast" and track underlay instead of using paper
Good morning Ron, I really enjoyed your video on "How to lay Flex Track on foam" now that I am starting on my new kit from Woodland Scenics "Scenic Ridge" . My question is where do you get the LIQUID flux, the very thin white micro applicator and 8mm solder without acid that you used in the video. I looked on "Midwest Model Trains" but could not find any of these? Thanks again for your videos Warren Zurheide
The curved turnout is a slightly wider radius than the curve itself, so the turnout serves as the easement in this case. It is an imperfect solution, but necessary in this case.
Thanks again on your video of "How to lay Flex Track on foam" Question: Are you familiar with Woodland Scenics "Foam Tack Glue"? You are asked to apply it to the track, let dry, then to the foam and let it dry. Then put the two together like contact cement. this seems awkward, is that the way you do with "Styrogoo"? Warren
Hi Warren. With Sturogoo I simply apply it to the roadbed, spread it into a thin layer, lay and adjust the track, then pin it down to dry. Using a contact tuoe glue is not very forgiving if you don't get the track placed perfectly as you lay it down.
Hi, Ron, I’ve just discovered this video and channel as I’ll be laying my track on foam, too. I’ve subscribed to the channel and will be exploring more of your videos. I wonder if you could answer one quick question regarding turnouts? It looks like you’re laying N Gauge track (if not, you may not be able to answer my question😅). I’m going to lay N Gauge Electrofrog turnouts but I’m a bit daunted by the butchering the OO folk do. I’ve heard it isn’t necessary for N Gauge. Do you have an opinion? Thanks
@@RonsTrainsNThings There are videos of OO and HO modellers cutting tracks with a Dremel and then soldering connections between stock and cross rails of the turnout to improve its reliability. I’ve tried it on an old N Gauge turnout but there just isn’t enough room to get a Dremel cutter in without damaging the stock rails.
I haven't gotten to the point where I'm laying down corkbed and track on my new setup, but I am confused. You were saying to use the styro glue to glue that cork bed down. I've been watching others and they. say just to use the white glue and that includes gluing the track to the cork bed. Why use the styro glue?
Ron; What is the maximum thickness do you recommend? What about using Tortoise type switch motors? What is the maximum distance underneath the layout do you think is possible for mounting the switch motors underneath the track?
Hey Ron, how would I go about running wire through several inches of foam? I plan on having about 2-3 inches of foam in between my track and my base board. Not many drill bits are long enough to accommodate this in sides small enough to fit between the ties for feeder wires, but with companies like Woodland Scenics putting out kits for multi-level foam terrain, wiring becomes a problem. I would appreciate any tips you might have for me! Thank you
I use latex caulk to attach track. On turnouts I use a spot of caulk under the frog onlybto stabilize the turnoutvwithout interfering with the moving parts.
Great video Ron, I've been wondering if corkbed could be glued to a foam base. I thought at 1st I wanted to lay the track directly on the foam but then was deciding against it. I made note of that glue you used on yours so I can use it on mine. When it comes to flex track which do you prefer or all they all just as good? Thanks for sharing your videos Ron and I'm viewing them from Delmar, Delaware.
I would work, but you have to make sure you get a good application of the glue at the points where the roadbed contacts the surface of the foam. Midwest Model Railroad carries cork roadbed on their web site.
@@ironhorsehistorian9871 I second Midwest Products cork roadbed, unfortunately I commented earlier with a link to it on MB Kleins site and dumb youtube deleted it since it contained a link. But yes, Midwest Products cork bed in n scale is too wide IMO so I always split the middle for double the length same price!!!
I have expansion joints, and sometimes I leave track joints unsoldered for this purpose, but that is not always where I want an expansion join. In most cases I cut expansion joints in intentional locations after the track is set.
White glue. An advantage is also, easy to remove as I just did so, spraying water with a couple of drops of dish liquid in the spray bottle to wet the track and cork. Using a plastic putty knife, everything came up fine with no damage to foam board or cork.
Hey Ron (and all), have you ever tried PL300. It is an adhesive specifically designed for use with foamboard. While I am just getting started, I use it everywhere that touches foam and cork, as it stays pliable to minimize sound conduction (like a caulk) yet very secure. I have a test piece of plywood to foam, foam to foam, cork to track, and plywood to cork and all seems perfect. Has there every been any issue with PL300 and model railroading?
I have used PL300 for gluing track, but it is not always available in the little local lumber yard or hardware store. It works well, but I honestly don't notice a great difference between it and other latex caulks.
Awesome way to explain Ron. You got lucky in that one. That turnout not having any power on that diverging route saved the video. That second BNSF unit rear truck was derailed. Did the turnout do it or was it like that leaving the yard?
Having done HO scale track on a club layout is there a reason you don't offset the gaps of the rail by a 1/4-1/2 inch & also cut the cork at an angle & sand it smooth? Neat video!
Hey Ron Is it true that grades kill locomotives? I was going to use 4% for my 4x8 layout to get some elevation in a small space but my train store advised against it saying it would strip out the gears in the locomotives.
Great video Ron. Question for you regarding cork roadbed vs a foam one. I am currently looking at Woodland Scenics Track-Bed Strips instead of cork. What is your preference and why? Thanks for a great vid!
Foam tack from Woodlands scenics is for foam (the name gives it away). I use a tacky craft glue that is safe for foam. It also adheres to plastic and cork. However, i gave up using cork years ago when I found TrackRite foam underlay. It spaces tracks perfectly and holds it in a slight recess and forms a perfect shoulder for ballast. I recommend it as being far superior to cork and so much quicker.
So the important point not mentioned - sound levels when running on the foamboard over plywood? Is there a reduction? Is it acceptable levels? I've been looking for ways to reduce running sound, and my experience to date has been cork on ply - frankly something that somewhat sounds right when you're modeling a girder bridge, not so much on the flat!
Hey, Ron, this video is of particular interest to me since I intend to use foam board on my future apartment layout both to support my track and for scenic forms. A couple question however; can I lay the foam directly on the benchwork or do I need a layer of plywood upon which to lay the foam? Thanks.
If you use 2" foam you CAN support it directly with the stringers of the benchwork, but personally I would use something plywood under. If it will not show you could save mone using OSB under the foam.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Thanks, Ron, for your prompt reply. I expect to use the 2-inch foam and I would at least use plywood in a few places such as where I am going to have a creek/river.
Foam board even 1" or 2" is not structurally "rigid." You will always need a firm, structural base on which to put down your foam board (styrofoam). To help avoid expansion and contraction problems (always due mostly to humidly changes), use 1/2" plywood as your structural base. Glue the foam board (styrofoam) to the plywood base. Make sure this base is well-supported from below. Using L-girder construction is never necessary. 2X4s or 2x3s are always sufficient.
Hey Ron watched the Video it perked my Ears up its cool how you solder and used Wik when needed And I think a Helix would be cool to make but a first timer like me I'd probably need a bit of Help.! I was wondering where you got your Extruded Foam I found pink at Home PoPo but when I was looking at some of the foam there it looked as there was moister in between the Sheets it was the Owen's Corning 1 inch pink foam they also had some 2 inch when I asked a Depot Associate if the foam was extruded he didn't have a clue to what it was he said this is all we Sell.. but I have seen the pink foam on your Layout I think you cut it and put it in small section it was when you was leveling your bench work Ron.. But I'd like to use the foam in acouple section of my Layout I'm looking to add a Turntable in one of my Sections... Thanks for your Time Allen D
Hey, Allen. There are a few different manufacturers that produce extruded foam, thus the different colors. They also have slightly different textures inside--a product of slightly varying extruding processes. Indeed the pink Owens Corning material you saw is extruded foam. I personally prefer Corning. It is dense and solid and sands really smoothly. That said, I use whatever I can but from my local small town lumber yard, which varies, and I've had good luck with them all. The moisture you saw was just condensation. It won't hurt the foam. Just wipe it off, separate the sheets, and let them air dry.
Ron, when do the video on the update of your layout, will it include running some trains, if so, have you ever done a cab ride view or thought about doing one? Your blessed to have so much room to do what you want to do (even though that room is cluttered with stuff but all good stuff, LOL), I envy you. I forgot to thank you for your ideas/tips on ways to lay track on foamboard, which I did too but being impatient, I was told by other modelers to use a low temp hot glue, which I'll never do again, it still melts the foam and distorts the track and we all know what uneven track leads to... lesson learned. Thanks again for all you do! Ron
I am making a small ho scale layout out of a piece of 1 inch foam that is 4 × 6 ft and was wondering what the cork does and do you need it or can you just put the track right on the foam?
I disagree with caulk to adhere track to cork. I want to reuse my track in the case I dismantle the layout. And what do you think about gluing the track directly to the foam? Why use cork? Just exploring new ideas.
Ron , I am trying to lay Peco code 55 flex track . But I am having trouble get latex calk to adhere to the track. Cork to foam worked great, foam to foam great, but track to cork roadbed NO GOOD. any suggestions?
Ron, You say on several of your track laying videos, to always to check your work with the NMRA gauge to make sure the rails are in gauge. What's the remedy if the rails are not correct? I really enjoy the videos. They are extremely helpful.
Thanks Ron. I noted you did not mention gaps for track expansion. Do you not worry because of room temperature? And you are laying track on foam? I have done this in my past but had shrinkage of the foam after a few years. Has this been an issue too? Thank you for your content. I am just finishing a 12 by 16 foot shed and will be laying track by January. Thanks again for sharing.
Inhave heard of people having issues with shrinkage, but haven't experienced it myself. As for expansion gaps, I will cut gaps for that purpose when I cut electrical gaps. That way I can decide exactly where Inwant them rather than arbitrarily wherever track joints fall.
@@RonsTrainsNThings That's really a good idea. Thanks. I am switching back to plywood and spline after the issues I had with foam on my last layout. But still use foam for scenic value.
Wouldn't it have been better to have installed cork roadbed under the other rails of the turnout before you glued down the cork roadbed, turnout, and the track?
Ron cutting off the spike heads and not the ties before laying track is cheating I suspect. After all you miss the thrill of taking those missing ties and replacing them after filing off the spike heads and sliding them into place with a bit of glue. It's labor intensive and hard on the fingers hanging on to those little bits of plastic to clean them up. Sounds crazy doesn't it!!!! I will be trying your method next time I doing some track laying. Thanks for sharing it.
Lol, yes, it was while doing exactly what you describe that I had an epiphany. "I'm chiseling off the spike detail to glue these under the track. Why don't I just do that in the first place and save a step"? 🤔💡
@@RonsTrainsNThings And for anybody else who wants to try this, it occurred to me that Atlas flex track has one rail that is glued?? down. Sliding a chisel blade under it should make it possible to get a rail joiner on. Not sure about Peco or Micro Engineering flex track.
I have found locating XPS is very hard to find these days, none of the big box home stores have it in supply, Home Depot or Lowes and even the local building supply stores are out and I have been told it may be 6-12 months be for it is back in supply. an online search does show that Menards in the Midwest has it in store, but the closest Mernard to me is 950 miles away. but they don't ship it. Any body want to send me a 1/2 inch thich sheet? hehe. FYI it works great with Woodland Scenics Risers.
I was hoping you meant you were cutting foam board to use as track bedding. :( I'm looking at going with 1/2" foam vs. 1". I can't see the point of 1" or more unless you were going to carve into the thicker foam. I was thinking how cool it would be to cut the track bed areas on thicker foam. But, that means you need to lower a lot of foam to leave the shape of the track bed areas. I hate CORK bedding! It's such a pita IMHO. More money, more steps and you cover it all anyway. Oh well, I'll keep digging. Someone out there had tried foam as track bedding.
Even your regular scenery on foam , your grass rocks tufts, static , sticks way better to the foam. Using standard glue methods. Want to cut in a river ? No problem use a foam knife or a utility knife. My framing is L girder construction every 8” apart than 1” foam board and 3/4 in over that. Want to put in a grade ? No problem utility knife. And guys if there is any reason in HO scale or N scale that you may need to jump on your board, that’s a poor design and should be replanned. O gauge is different that is why yes stronger framing and plywood first. My name is Sam and my new N scale layout will be on TH-cam from framing to finish.
I will never understand why people use foam. For modules, it is ok. But for something I am going to build on over years, I want something more solid. People say it weights less. How over do you carry your layout around the house. 98% of layouts are not designed to be moved, and they are mostly scrapped in place. I built using the TOMA method, and none of my layout segments weighted over 50 pounds . Just my thoughts on the matter.
Foam is also a very easy to shape/carve media that makes a great scenery base in any situation. Using 1 1/2" or 2" foam is incredibly strong and stable.
@Ron's Trains N Things yes everything you say is true. I have even used it for scenery , DCC test stand has a 16" x 36" piece as the base because of weight. But I just don't like using it for the roadbed in HO scale. But that is why they make chocolate and vanilla ice cream . Thanks for the reply.
Check out more tips and techniques for laying track in a variety of different applications here: th-cam.com/video/Nu9qlIckU7Q/w-d-xo.html
When I built my portable HO modules I used foam with a wood frame to keep them light. I used Elmer's white glue for everything. That was more than ten years ago. Nothing has come loose. Rain, snow, and extreme temperature changes has not affected them at all.
another golden spike moment to celebrate. Great video Ron. Cheers, Rob
When RTNT and Distant Signal upload, it's a great start to the day!
Same here. 😂
@@RonsTrainsNThings Hi Ron, left a message on your Patreon page that you probably never saw but not a problem.
Just wanted to know if you had any Scale Train brand locomotives, if so, wanted to get your opinion on them.
The reviews seem good but those aren’t your trusted reviews.
@@ronaldjoyce7374 I really like them. In fact I have a review video of some scaletrains locomotives coming up. I've reviewed some locomotives and covered hoppers in the past.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Thanks for the heads up Ron, I’ll be looking forward to seeing your review. Ron
@@ronaldjoyce7374 agreed, I have quite a few Scaletrains locomotives and they're the best in my opinion!
I just realized I've been watching these videos for two years, and they have helped me with choosing locomotives, doing scenery, and so much else. Joined the channel today just to support you a little. :)
Awesome, and welcome. It is greatly appreciated.
Ron I to lay my track on foam. Matter of fact my whole layout is on foam over ply. Great update and nice to see you running again. Keep having fun, Chris
Thanks for the great tutorial. The layout is really coming along thanks to your tips.
The brown worm in North Yard! Thanks for another great video with your tips and tricks!!!
Well done Ron!!!!
I’m sorry I did forget to mention your videos are very good. Nice job. And there is always more to learn.
THANK YOU FOR DETAILED VIDEO ON YOUR DETAIL LAYOUT
Ron I use Weldbond glue , works great for gluing cork to the foam , also use same glue for my track to the cork
Looks good Ron, yes....would like to see your Layout and Trains run. See ya down the Rails!! Bob
Just getting into model RRing (N Scale). Thanks for the tips and videos. That’s a lot of extra work in addition to RRing!
Congrats Ron. Cant wait to see the layout update.
Thanks Ron , Mike
Thank you, Ron. Very helpful to me.
I've glued cork and track to styrofoam with yellow wood glue .It works fine. I like your cutting off spike detail and not the ties. Another good video.
Great tutorial, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for this video Ron, precisely what I need right now as I lay track.
Nicely done! I will be starting my benchwork soon and then laying track, your technique, solder and wick tips will help!
I use Woodland Scenics foam roadbed applied with PVA glue that is pinned with pushpins. I've had to revise trackwork and it was as simple as wetting the PVA, waiting 10-15 min and using a putty knife to lift the switches/track right up! The PVA glue sets hard and secure.
Hi Ron, just wanted to say "Great channel", thanks for sharing all those great tips . I'm pretty new to the hobby, I had a layout using ez track but decided to make a new layout using code 83 snap track and boy I quickly realized it was much harder than it looks, I find your videos very helpful and helps promote the hobby. I can see how alot of people can quit when they don't see the results they hoped for. Anyhow I really appreciate what you do. I'm in the middle of making a new layout and when there's a topic I want to look up I've found your content very informative.
Peter.
Ron,
I am using white glue as I make changes to my layout.
Works well for me.
Happy highballing!
Nice one Ron, looking forward to seeing the full layout :)
So glad to see train's running again!! Thank you for the many tip's of using foam. I have used foam by itself with great success,but it was a small shelf test type layout. I connected the track to the foam with track nails since I knew it was temporary. Wishing you and your's a very Merry Christmas
Hey! Great video! You've hit on some very important and noteworthy points here! Unfortunately for me, TH-cam wasn't here when I did my first layout, 2002.
Now for the question! I am laying down extruded foam insulation board for my sub roadbed. I noticed you waited until you laid your track to paint it. I wanted to completely paint it with flat latex paint, before I lay down any track.
Would the paint cause issues with the cork roadbed sticking properly or even staying glued down? Just curious.
The short answer is it can. If you pain first you are gluing to the paint, not the foam. Paint can peel away, leaving loose cork.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Thank you for taking the time to reply to me! Happy model railroading! 🚂
very good thanks, nice project
You mentioned fixing the track directly to the foam as well. Are there any downsides with that? In my mind the extra thickness of the cork in N scale looks much too big and I’m thinking that just ballasting over the (too tall) N scale ties is “enough” without any cork. But if the cork helps for other reasons?
Also (if I may) when you did the wiring here did you take any steps to avoid the PVC wire sheaths “leeching” into the foam, like funnelling them through plastic conduits.
Looks great Ron! Keep up the good work. I will be waiting for your layout update.
Interesting video as usual. I glue cork and track to foam with Elmers Glue All. Been in place for many years with no problems. Easy to unglue if I need to move it.
I hav been laying track on foam for at least 20 years, when I would tell people I would be looked at like I had 3 heads. Now it’s the norm. Who knew about making videos, not me obviously cause between this and so many other ideas I could have been rich by now. Ok if I my do not glue your track down until your plan is in stone. You can just pin it with small nails till you’re set and happy with your plan. When you are completely satisfied then ballast your track , it’s not going anywhere. In fact if you do need to make changes it’s quite difficult to take up track and if you’re in N scale like me you’ll be replacing sections of track. Use a basic ballast method the glue will adhere much harder to the foam then it does to wood. All those steps of latex caulk in not necessary. Foam is great for one important reason, you need no power tools to do anything. I’ve built many model railroads for my self and for others. Even for O gauge but for that you should go over a basic plywood. My next build will be on TH-cam.
Very well presented, useful video thanks 👍
Another Grrrreat video! Did notice the second unit jumped and derailed. Wonder why it didn't cause a short....
Actually, one wheel was derailed before it got to the turnout, thus the jump. unfortunately I didn't see it until I was far along in editing. As for a short, it didn't cross connect the rails, thus no short.
thanks ron!
though i am an ho/oo modeller and you are an n scale modeller, this should help me with "ballast" and track underlay instead of using paper
Yes, this works regardless of scale.
Hello Ron I'm late to the game. How did you build or well attach your upper deck to the wall?
The answer is here: th-cam.com/video/FOfgXUT3QPk/w-d-xo.html
Good morning Ron, I really enjoyed your video on "How to lay Flex Track on foam" now that I am starting on my new kit from Woodland Scenics "Scenic Ridge" . My question is where do you get the LIQUID flux, the very thin white micro applicator and 8mm solder without acid that you used in the video. I looked on "Midwest Model Trains" but could not find any of these? Thanks again for your videos
Warren Zurheide
Here is your answer: amzn.to/3LbJtUW
how do you go with track expansion during summer?
I cut expansion gaps when I cut insulating gaps. That is the subject of my next video.
Great Vid!!
Are you DC or DCC??
DCC
Is there a exact brand of latex Grey caulk I should use or will any do?
How did you add the curve easement with a switch install in the middle of the curve?
The curved turnout is a slightly wider radius than the curve itself, so the turnout serves as the easement in this case. It is an imperfect solution, but necessary in this case.
HELLO RON ITS IS RANDY AND I LIKE U VIDEO IS COOL THANKS RON FRIENDS RANDY
Thanks again on your video of "How to lay Flex Track on foam" Question: Are you familiar with Woodland Scenics "Foam Tack Glue"? You are asked to apply it to the track, let dry, then to the foam and let it dry. Then put the two together like contact cement. this seems awkward, is that the way you do with "Styrogoo"?
Warren
Hi Warren. With Sturogoo I simply apply it to the roadbed, spread it into a thin layer, lay and adjust the track, then pin it down to dry. Using a contact tuoe glue is not very forgiving if you don't get the track placed perfectly as you lay it down.
Hi, Ron, I’ve just discovered this video and channel as I’ll be laying my track on foam, too. I’ve subscribed to the channel and will be exploring more of your videos. I wonder if you could answer one quick question regarding turnouts? It looks like you’re laying N Gauge track (if not, you may not be able to answer my question😅). I’m going to lay N Gauge Electrofrog turnouts but I’m a bit daunted by the butchering the OO folk do. I’ve heard it isn’t necessary for N Gauge. Do you have an opinion? Thanks
Well, I'm not familiar with what "butchering" you are referring to. Can you please explain?
@@RonsTrainsNThings There are videos of OO and HO modellers cutting tracks with a Dremel and then soldering connections between stock and cross rails of the turnout to improve its reliability. I’ve tried it on an old N Gauge turnout but there just isn’t enough room to get a Dremel cutter in without damaging the stock rails.
Do you have a video explaining how to draw the track plan centerlines onto the table surface?
Yes I do. Here is a link: th-cam.com/video/CwtlREJHtMo/w-d-xo.html
Great video. Will be good to see trains running the whole length of the layout.
I agree. 😂
Excellent video thanks !!!!!
Ron , how do you handle super elevation when you glue down the track ? Would'nt that make for a very thick layer ( and mess) of caulking?
No, the amount of height difference in reality on scale track is very small, so the added amount of caulk is small as well.
Which Tool you're using for Track cutting ?
Video very Innovative....
This one: amzn.to/3idW0uT
I haven't gotten to the point where I'm laying down corkbed and track on my new setup, but I am confused. You were saying to use the styro glue to glue that cork bed down. I've been watching others and they. say just to use the white glue and that includes gluing the track to the cork bed. Why use the styro glue?
Ron; What is the maximum thickness do you recommend? What about using Tortoise type switch motors? What is the maximum distance underneath the layout do you think is possible for mounting the switch motors underneath the track?
Hey Ron, how would I go about running wire through several inches of foam? I plan on having about 2-3 inches of foam in between my track and my base board. Not many drill bits are long enough to accommodate this in sides small enough to fit between the ties for feeder wires, but with companies like Woodland Scenics putting out kits for multi-level foam terrain, wiring becomes a problem. I would appreciate any tips you might have for me! Thank you
Do you use latex caulk to attach turnouts, or just rail joiners? I missed that if you mentioned it. Very helpful video. Thank you, Kennedy
I use latex caulk to attach track. On turnouts I use a spot of caulk under the frog onlybto stabilize the turnoutvwithout interfering with the moving parts.
Happy New Year to you and your family 👪 ❤️ 😊
thank, you for you're video.👍
Is Attack the Foam the same thing as Fighting your way out of a Wet Paper Bag?
🤣🤣🤣
Congrats! Looking great so far.
Can’t wait to see the rest.
Great video Ron, I've been wondering if corkbed could be glued to a foam base. I thought at 1st I wanted to lay the track directly on the foam but then was deciding against it. I made note of that glue you used on yours so I can use it on mine. When it comes to flex track which do you prefer or all they all just as good? Thanks for sharing your videos Ron and I'm viewing them from Delmar, Delaware.
Would this process also work for Kato n scale unitrack (which is simple but excellent (not sponsored). Also where might I buy cork roadbed?
I would work, but you have to make sure you get a good application of the glue at the points where the roadbed contacts the surface of the foam. Midwest Model Railroad carries cork roadbed on their web site.
@@RonsTrainsNThings good to know thanks
@@ironhorsehistorian9871 I second Midwest Products cork roadbed, unfortunately I commented earlier with a link to it on MB Kleins site and dumb youtube deleted it since it contained a link. But yes, Midwest Products cork bed in n scale is too wide IMO so I always split the middle for double the length same price!!!
Plain old Elmer's White Glue works fine for me.
The one drawback to Elmer's or any PVA glue is it reactivates with water, so scenery work my listen your track.
@@RonsTrainsNThings "listen" ?
Loosen...typo
Why do you solder all your joins? Don't you need expansion joints?
I have expansion joints, and sometimes I leave track joints unsoldered for this purpose, but that is not always where I want an expansion join. In most cases I cut expansion joints in intentional locations after the track is set.
White glue. An advantage is also, easy to remove as I just did so, spraying water with a couple of drops of dish liquid in the spray bottle to wet the track and cork. Using a plastic putty knife, everything came up fine with no damage to foam board or cork.
Hey Ron (and all), have you ever tried PL300. It is an adhesive specifically designed for use with foamboard. While I am just getting started, I use it everywhere that touches foam and cork, as it stays pliable to minimize sound conduction (like a caulk) yet very secure. I have a test piece of plywood to foam, foam to foam, cork to track, and plywood to cork and all seems perfect. Has there every been any issue with PL300 and model railroading?
I have used PL300 for gluing track, but it is not always available in the little local lumber yard or hardware store. It works well, but I honestly don't notice a great difference between it and other latex caulks.
I like 2% silver solder. Amazing stuff.
Awesome way to explain Ron. You got lucky in that one. That turnout not having any power on that diverging route saved the video. That second BNSF unit rear truck was derailed. Did the turnout do it or was it like that leaving the yard?
I think I bumped it just before this shot. Didn't see it until editing.
Having done HO scale track on a club layout is there a reason you don't offset the gaps of the rail by a 1/4-1/2 inch & also cut the cork at an angle & sand it smooth? Neat video!
Hey Ron
Is it true that grades kill locomotives? I was going to use 4% for my 4x8 layout to get some elevation in a small space but my train store advised against it saying it would strip out the gears in the locomotives.
Great video Ron. Question for you regarding cork roadbed vs a foam one. I am currently looking at Woodland Scenics Track-Bed Strips instead of cork. What is your preference and why? Thanks for a great vid!
Foam tack from Woodlands scenics is for foam (the name gives it away). I use a tacky craft glue that is safe for foam. It also adheres to plastic and cork. However, i gave up using cork years ago when I found TrackRite foam underlay. It spaces tracks perfectly and holds it in a slight recess and forms a perfect shoulder for ballast. I recommend it as being far superior to cork and so much quicker.
So the important point not mentioned - sound levels when running on the foamboard over plywood? Is there a reduction? Is it acceptable levels?
I've been looking for ways to reduce running sound, and my experience to date has been cork on ply - frankly something that somewhat sounds right when you're modeling a girder bridge, not so much on the flat!
I notice virtually no transmitted loco noise through the 1/2" foam.
good vid, thanks
Hey, Ron, this video is of particular interest to me since I intend to use foam board on my future apartment layout both to support my track and for scenic forms. A couple question however; can I lay the foam directly on the benchwork or do I need a layer of plywood upon which to lay the foam? Thanks.
If you use 2" foam you CAN support it directly with the stringers of the benchwork, but personally I would use something plywood under. If it will not show you could save mone using OSB under the foam.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Thanks, Ron, for your prompt reply. I expect to use the 2-inch foam and I would at least use plywood in a few places such as where I am going to have a creek/river.
Foam board even 1" or 2" is not structurally "rigid." You will always need a firm, structural base on which to put down your foam board (styrofoam). To help avoid expansion and contraction problems (always due mostly to humidly changes), use 1/2" plywood as your structural base. Glue the foam board (styrofoam) to the plywood base. Make sure this base is well-supported from below. Using L-girder construction is never necessary. 2X4s or 2x3s are always sufficient.
Hey Ron watched the Video it perked my Ears up its cool how you solder and used Wik when needed And I think a Helix would be cool to make but a first timer like me I'd probably need a bit of Help.!
I was wondering where you got your Extruded Foam I found pink at Home PoPo but when I was looking at some of the foam there it looked as there was moister in between the Sheets it was the Owen's Corning 1 inch pink foam they also had some 2 inch when I asked a Depot Associate if the foam was extruded he didn't have a clue to what it was he said this is all we Sell.. but I have seen the pink foam on your Layout I think you cut it and put it in small section it was when you was leveling your bench work Ron..
But I'd like to use the foam in acouple section of my Layout I'm looking to add a Turntable in one of my Sections...
Thanks for your Time Allen D
Hey, Allen. There are a few different manufacturers that produce extruded foam, thus the different colors. They also have slightly different textures inside--a product of slightly varying extruding processes. Indeed the pink Owens Corning material you saw is extruded foam. I personally prefer Corning. It is dense and solid and sands really smoothly. That said, I use whatever I can but from my local small town lumber yard, which varies, and I've had good luck with them all. The moisture you saw was just condensation. It won't hurt the foam. Just wipe it off, separate the sheets, and let them air dry.
Nicely done 👍
Did you see that the second unit off the track?
Yes, but sadly not until I was in edit. 😕
Glidden Gripper. Best and cheapest way to glue foam. It’s a primer but works fantastic on glueing foam. I have done Halloween tombstones with this.
Ron, when do the video on the update of your layout, will it include running some trains, if so, have you ever done a cab ride view or thought about doing one?
Your blessed to have so much room to do what you want to do (even though that room is cluttered with stuff but all good stuff, LOL), I envy you.
I forgot to thank you for your ideas/tips on ways to lay track on foamboard, which I did too but being impatient, I was told by other modelers to use a low temp hot glue, which I'll never do again, it still melts the foam and distorts the track and we all know what uneven track leads to... lesson learned.
Thanks again for all you do! Ron
I am making a small ho scale layout out of a piece of 1 inch foam that is 4 × 6 ft and was wondering what the cork does and do you need it or can you just put the track right on the foam?
I disagree with caulk to adhere track to cork. I want to reuse my track in the case I dismantle the layout.
And what do you think about gluing the track directly to the foam? Why use cork? Just exploring new ideas.
Very nice excellent job.🚂
Ron , I am trying to lay Peco code 55 flex track . But I am having trouble get latex calk to adhere to the track. Cork to foam worked great, foam to foam great, but track to cork roadbed NO GOOD. any suggestions?
Ron, You say on several of your track laying videos, to always to check your work with the NMRA gauge to make sure the rails are in gauge. What's the remedy if the rails are not correct?
I really enjoy the videos. They are extremely helpful.
Where can I purchase liquid flux?
Here: amzn.to/3A5cBap
I can not get only 1/2 foam from Lowes in Orangeburg, SC. They do not even homosoak fiber boards ether. That is why I lay track with cork on plywood.
Home Depot in Augusta, GA had all 4 sizes. Is there a HD in Orangeburg?
Neat. Was it just the camera, or was the train twitching?
It was the camera.👍🏼
Dont you need gaps for expansion in hot weather. I soldered my first layout and ended up w ith buckled track in summer
Yes, that is the reason for expansion gaps, to avoid those kinks.
I would definitely like to see how you affix the tortoise machine to the foam
There is plywood under the foam, but a test and video on Tortoises on just 2" foam would be a good video.
No superelevation on the curves?
Thanks Ron. I noted you did not mention gaps for track expansion. Do you not worry because of room temperature? And you are laying track on foam? I have done this in my past but had shrinkage of the foam after a few years. Has this been an issue too? Thank you for your content. I am just finishing a 12 by 16 foot shed and will be laying track by January. Thanks again for sharing.
Inhave heard of people having issues with shrinkage, but haven't experienced it myself. As for expansion gaps, I will cut gaps for that purpose when I cut electrical gaps. That way I can decide exactly where Inwant them rather than arbitrarily wherever track joints fall.
@@RonsTrainsNThings That's really a good idea. Thanks. I am switching back to plywood and spline after the issues I had with foam on my last layout. But still use foam for scenic value.
Wouldn't it have been better to have installed cork roadbed under the other rails of the turnout before you glued down the cork roadbed, turnout, and the track?
Perhaps, but it won't much matter in the long run. I can slip the corner of cork under the small diverging track easily enough.
Ron cutting off the spike heads and not the ties before laying track is cheating I suspect. After all you miss the thrill of taking those missing ties and replacing them after filing off the spike heads and sliding them into place with a bit of glue. It's labor intensive and hard on the fingers hanging on to those little bits of plastic to clean them up. Sounds crazy doesn't it!!!!
I will be trying your method next time I doing some track laying. Thanks for sharing it.
Lol, yes, it was while doing exactly what you describe that I had an epiphany. "I'm chiseling off the spike detail to glue these under the track. Why don't I just do that in the first place and save a step"? 🤔💡
@@RonsTrainsNThings And for anybody else who wants to try this, it occurred to me that Atlas flex track has one rail that is glued?? down. Sliding a chisel blade under it should make it possible to get a rail joiner on. Not sure about Peco or Micro Engineering flex track.
I have found locating XPS is very hard to find these days, none of the big box home stores have it in supply, Home Depot or Lowes and even the local building supply stores are out and I have been told it may be 6-12 months be for it is back in supply. an online search does show that Menards in the Midwest has it in store, but the closest Mernard to me is 950 miles away. but they don't ship it. Any body want to send me a 1/2 inch thich sheet? hehe. FYI it works great with Woodland Scenics Risers.
I was hoping you meant you were cutting foam board to use as track bedding. :( I'm looking at going with 1/2" foam vs. 1". I can't see the point of 1" or more unless you were going to carve into the thicker foam. I was thinking how cool it would be to cut the track bed areas on thicker foam. But, that means you need to lower a lot of foam to leave the shape of the track bed areas. I hate CORK bedding! It's such a pita IMHO. More money, more steps and you cover it all anyway. Oh well, I'll keep digging. Someone out there had tried foam as track bedding.
Has Tim Smith ran trains with you
No, I don't think I know Tim Smith.
At 10:60 your loco bumped as it went over the switch track
good vid look good
Even your regular scenery on foam , your grass rocks tufts, static , sticks way better to the foam. Using standard glue methods. Want to cut in a river ? No problem use a foam knife or a utility knife. My framing is L girder construction every 8” apart than 1” foam board and 3/4 in over that. Want to put in a grade ? No problem utility knife. And guys if there is any reason in HO scale or N scale that you may need to jump on your board, that’s a poor design and should be replanned. O gauge is different that is why yes stronger framing and plywood first. My name is Sam and my new N scale layout will be on TH-cam from framing to finish.
Happy you got laid after such a long time, I can tell you’re happy.
I will never understand why people use foam. For modules, it is ok. But for something I am going to build on over years, I want something more solid. People say it weights less. How over do you carry your layout around the house. 98% of layouts are not designed to be moved, and they are mostly scrapped in place. I built using the TOMA method, and none of my layout segments weighted over 50 pounds . Just my thoughts on the matter.
Foam is also a very easy to shape/carve media that makes a great scenery base in any situation. Using 1 1/2" or 2" foam is incredibly strong and stable.
@Ron's Trains N Things yes everything you say is true. I have even used it for scenery , DCC test stand has a 16" x 36" piece as the base because of weight. But I just don't like using it for the roadbed in HO scale. But that is why they make chocolate and vanilla ice cream . Thanks for the reply.
Hmm... I was kind of expecting to see you laying track on foam board, not cork.
O Q America Flyer Mark's