You sir are one humble fish! Ive lost two of my favorite tank mates due to a combo of velvet and brook and i was on a mission to save the rest. I now have the other 6 in QT with everything you've stated and they are ALL on the road to recovery. I say road because Brook has been hard to treat and I didn't have the proper medicine on hand to deal with it. Your amazing videos showing Hydrogen peroxide baths and freshwater baths was able to buy my fish some time until i could source General cure, a copper test, Meth blue, and Rally Pro. Currently everyone is breathing normally, and finally eating again with the only exception that my smallest clownfish is dealing with Fin Rot from what i could guess is a secondary infection from having a generally lowered immune system. I have lost much sleep prepping saltwater, caring for them and observing behavior in order to treat it in a timely matter with the most effective way. Id say its paying off and I cant thank anybody but the R2R community and yourself. Keep doing you man! Much love for our little wet friends.
Great video humble fish I’m kind a little confused can I add metroplex & Kanaplex & Focus in the fishes food treating the fish in my main display tank ?
Hey, I really want to quarantine corals and inverts, but I cannot as I live in a tropical country where the water can reach 114 degrees Fahrenheit. So, I can only quarantine fish. I could quarantine corals and inverts but I would need a chiller and it’s too expensive, so my parents won’t allow me to. So what should I do? Please let me know. Thanks a lot. Please reply.
No, a freshwater dip is only needed to check for skin flukes and provides some temporary relief. You don’t need to do a freshwater dip if you are going to treat with Prazipro.
Hey. How do j know if my chromis group (currently in quarantine) are euronema free? I had a few die from euronema but for the past few days the rest are good with no lesions. How do I know if they are good if some of the group was dying off from it a few days ago Thanks
@@MathewB-d7w If some with red sores have already died, odds are the entire lot is infected with Uronema and needs to be treated. Read this: humble.fish/community/index.php?threads/us-vs-uronema.15259/
@@MathewB-d7w I would dose formalin every 24 hours for 2 weeks: humble.fish/community/index.php?threads/formalin.19/ That is more of a sure thing for clearing Uronema than using metro.
Bobby, I would like to try the food soaking option (9:34). Can I use this recipe (1 scoop of General Cure) for fish of any size? Is it not necessary to dose the medication (in food) according to body weight?
It is always optimal to weigh each fish and adjust dosage accordingly. However, that's not always practical when trying to quarantine + treat multiple fish in the same aquarium. So, I came up with this recipe for food soaking dewormers that seems to work in most cases over a 2-3 week period: 1 Tbsp food (preferably pellets or frozen food) 1 scoop (~ 1/8 teaspoon) of medication (API General Cure or Fritz Paracleanse) 1-2 scoops Seachem Focus (makes it reef safe + binds the medication) A pinch of Epsom salt to help expel dead worms/parasites A few drops of saltwater or fish vitamins Stir until a medicated food slurry has been achieved. Feed after soaking for 30 mins. Refrigerate or freeze any leftovers for future use. You can feed this mix 1-2 times per day. Not recommend to exceed 2 feedings per day with medicated food. Feed daily for 2-3 weeks, or until poop returns to a solid brown or green color (no white).
@@HumblefishReef It's true. The recipe really makes the process more practical. I plan to use it. Should I also add DMSO? If so, at what stage of the process (and how much)?
@@marcosrj3545 I would add just a few drops of DMSO to help dissolve praziquantel and fenbendazole. It isn't needed for Metronidazole as that medication is easily water soluble.
I lost my powder blue and scopas because of the fresh water dip. I did everything like the example video. They were just done with QT and I wanted to leave them in observation for another week before introducing them to DT. I treated them for ick , flukes, and internal parasites. I wanted to make sure that they didn't have any flukes since they are difficult to see but the fish ended up dying 30 mim after the dip. They swam for a bit then they died. I don't know what I did wrong.
I’m very sorry to hear this. Tangs sometimes like to “play dead” during a FW dip. They will lay down on their side. Did you chase them a little with your fingers to keep them swimming & upright? Also, did you aerate the water beforehand and set the temperature to match the tank they were coming from? How about pH? Did you use RODI or tap water to do the FW dip?
@@HumblefishReef i had the hang on container in the tank with RODI. I left it in there for a few hours to match the temperature. I checked the RODI water from the container and the tank to make sure the temperature was exactly alike. I placed an airstone then the fish and left them in for five minutes. After that I placed them back in the tank. They swam around for a few minutes then they laid on their side. I left them alone because I know they like to play dead but after several minutes of them not moving I moved them around. They still wouldn't move no mater how much I tried. I saw them moving their mouths and gills then after another 30 minutes they stopped moving. I tried moving them and they wouldn't budge. I have an airstone in the tank at all times so I don't think they were low on oxygen. I also have a sail fin and he made it through just fine. I still have a LT tang but I didn't do a fresh water dip on him. I'm to scared too now. I didn't check the PH because I thought it wouldn't matter since it's the same RODI that I used to mix with the salt.
@@amoosenamedgoose3723 A few things: 1. You want to oxygenate the water by using an air stone for an hour or so BEFORE adding the fish. RODI is essentially “dead water” with little to no oxygen in it. 2. Never let the fish just lay down on the bottom of the dip container. As soon as you see them do that, immediately chase the fish with your hand to get them swimming around again. If the fish refuses to get up, abort the freshwater dip and put the fish back in the tank. Sometimes you need to hold a fish in front of a wavemaker (on low) to get saltwater flowing through their gills again. 3. The pH of RODI is unstable. So, it’s best to raise the pH to ~ 8.0 before placing fish in the dip water. This can be accomplished by using supplements (available at most LFS) or you can “bake” your own DIY supplement by using baking soda. Spread baking soda onto a clean baking sheet, and bake at 300F for 1 hour. This process drives off carbon dioxide and water from the baking soda, and the result is an effective pH booster. You will need to experiment (start with a very small amount) to determine how much is needed to raise your pH to the desired level. Also, I would only dip one fish at a time. I wasn’t sure from your comments whether you tried to dip two or more fish at the same time.
@@HumblefishReef thank you very much for your response. I will follow this steps accordingly next time. I was dipping one fish at a time. Thanks again for all you're content. I've learned a lot from watching your videos. Will any PH tester work?
You sir are one humble fish! Ive lost two of my favorite tank mates due to a combo of velvet and brook and i was on a mission to save the rest. I now have the other 6 in QT with everything you've stated and they are ALL on the road to recovery. I say road because Brook has been hard to treat and I didn't have the proper medicine on hand to deal with it. Your amazing videos showing Hydrogen peroxide baths and freshwater baths was able to buy my fish some time until i could source General cure, a copper test, Meth blue, and Rally Pro. Currently everyone is breathing normally, and finally eating again with the only exception that my smallest clownfish is dealing with Fin Rot from what i could guess is a secondary infection from having a generally lowered immune system. I have lost much sleep prepping saltwater, caring for them and observing behavior in order to treat it in a timely matter with the most effective way. Id say its paying off and I cant thank anybody but the R2R community and yourself. Keep doing you man! Much love for our little wet friends.
Great video! Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you
This video was super helpful! Thank you for creating it - I am SO glad I found it.
Thank you so much for this video. Right to the point with useful info. I appreciate this one guys there's not many videos that get right into it.
Great informations.. Thank you humble fish!
Great video humble fish I’m kind a little confused can I add metroplex & Kanaplex & Focus in the fishes food treating the fish in my main display tank ?
Yes, provided you use Seachem Focus to bind the medications: www.seachem.com/focus.php
Hey, I really want to quarantine corals and inverts, but I cannot as I live in a tropical country where the water can reach 114 degrees Fahrenheit. So, I can only quarantine fish. I could quarantine corals and inverts but I would need a chiller and it’s too expensive, so my parents won’t allow me to. So what should I do? Please let me know. Thanks a lot. Please reply.
hi, if i use prazipro still need to do fresh water dip for external parasite like fluke ??
No, a freshwater dip is only needed to check for skin flukes and provides some temporary relief. You don’t need to do a freshwater dip if you are going to treat with Prazipro.
Hey. How do j know if my chromis group (currently in quarantine) are euronema free? I had a few die from euronema but for the past few days the rest are good with no lesions. How do I know if they are good if some of the group was dying off from it a few days ago
Thanks
@@MathewB-d7w If some with red sores have already died, odds are the entire lot is infected with Uronema and needs to be treated. Read this: humble.fish/community/index.php?threads/us-vs-uronema.15259/
@@HumblefishReef thank you. Can I just add metro every 48 hrs for 2 weeks?
@@MathewB-d7w I would dose formalin every 24 hours for 2 weeks: humble.fish/community/index.php?threads/formalin.19/
That is more of a sure thing for clearing Uronema than using metro.
Bobby, I would like to try the food soaking option (9:34). Can I use this recipe (1 scoop of General Cure) for fish of any size? Is it not necessary to dose the medication (in food) according to body weight?
It is always optimal to weigh each fish and adjust dosage accordingly. However, that's not always practical when trying to quarantine + treat multiple fish in the same aquarium. So, I came up with this recipe for food soaking dewormers that seems to work in most cases over a 2-3 week period:
1 Tbsp food (preferably pellets or frozen food)
1 scoop (~ 1/8 teaspoon) of medication (API General Cure or Fritz Paracleanse)
1-2 scoops Seachem Focus (makes it reef safe + binds the medication)
A pinch of Epsom salt to help expel dead worms/parasites
A few drops of saltwater or fish vitamins
Stir until a medicated food slurry has been achieved.
Feed after soaking for 30 mins.
Refrigerate or freeze any leftovers for future use.
You can feed this mix 1-2 times per day. Not recommend to exceed 2 feedings per day with medicated food.
Feed daily for 2-3 weeks, or until poop returns to a solid brown or green color (no white).
@@HumblefishReef It's true. The recipe really makes the process more practical. I plan to use it. Should I also add DMSO? If so, at what stage of the process (and how much)?
@@marcosrj3545 I would add just a few drops of DMSO to help dissolve praziquantel and fenbendazole. It isn't needed for Metronidazole as that medication is easily water soluble.
@@HumblefishReef Thank you!
I lost my powder blue and scopas because of the fresh water dip. I did everything like the example video. They were just done with QT and I wanted to leave them in observation for another week before introducing them to DT. I treated them for ick , flukes, and internal parasites. I wanted to make sure that they didn't have any flukes since they are difficult to see but the fish ended up dying 30 mim after the dip. They swam for a bit then they died. I don't know what I did wrong.
I’m very sorry to hear this. Tangs sometimes like to “play dead” during a FW dip. They will lay down on their side. Did you chase them a little with your fingers to keep them swimming & upright? Also, did you aerate the water beforehand and set the temperature to match the tank they were coming from? How about pH? Did you use RODI or tap water to do the FW dip?
@@HumblefishReef i had the hang on container in the tank with RODI. I left it in there for a few hours to match the temperature. I checked the RODI water from the container and the tank to make sure the temperature was exactly alike. I placed an airstone then the fish and left them in for five minutes. After that I placed them back in the tank. They swam around for a few minutes then they laid on their side. I left them alone because I know they like to play dead but after several minutes of them not moving I moved them around. They still wouldn't move no mater how much I tried. I saw them moving their mouths and gills then after another 30 minutes they stopped moving. I tried moving them and they wouldn't budge. I have an airstone in the tank at all times so I don't think they were low on oxygen. I also have a sail fin and he made it through just fine. I still have a LT tang but I didn't do a fresh water dip on him. I'm to scared too now. I didn't check the PH because I thought it wouldn't matter since it's the same RODI that I used to mix with the salt.
@@amoosenamedgoose3723 A few things:
1. You want to oxygenate the water by using an air stone for an hour or so BEFORE adding the fish. RODI is essentially “dead water” with little to no oxygen in it.
2. Never let the fish just lay down on the bottom of the dip container. As soon as you see them do that, immediately chase the fish with your hand to get them swimming around again. If the fish refuses to get up, abort the freshwater dip and put the fish back in the tank. Sometimes you need to hold a fish in front of a wavemaker (on low) to get saltwater flowing through their gills again.
3. The pH of RODI is unstable. So, it’s best to raise the pH to ~ 8.0 before placing fish in the dip water. This can be accomplished by using supplements (available at most LFS) or you can “bake” your own DIY supplement by using baking soda. Spread baking soda onto a clean baking sheet, and bake at 300F for 1 hour. This process drives off carbon dioxide and water from the baking soda, and the result is an effective pH booster. You will need to experiment (start with a very small amount) to determine how much is needed to raise your pH to the desired level.
Also, I would only dip one fish at a time. I wasn’t sure from your comments whether you tried to dip two or more fish at the same time.
@@HumblefishReef thank you very much for your response. I will follow this steps accordingly next time. I was dipping one fish at a time. Thanks again for all you're content. I've learned a lot from watching your videos.
Will any PH tester work?
@@amoosenamedgoose3723 Yup, any pH test kit that can read up to 8.0 👍
💯✅✊🏼
What happenet if dont turn off UV and Skimmer with prazi pro?
Skimmer will go nuts, and UV will remove the medication from the water.