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ULTIMATE Bow Sight Tuning TOOL
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ส.ค. 2024
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Chris has been a huge inspiration for me to get more involved with the sport of archery and today I finally got my very own V3…I can’t explain the excitement I had shooting it for the first time…Thanks Chris and Gob Bless! 🇺🇸🇺🇸
Gob Bless you too
A v3 for a first bow hell yea
I literally just got my bow back from the pro shop two days ago, it is shooting perfect, but every time I watch one of these videos, I am convinced that my bow is 100% jacked up. 😆
If arrows r flying straight and it feels good hitting the target it’s good to go .
@@Hungrybird474 Nope. Drilling x even with broadheads, but pretty sure something has to be horribly wrong with the setup.😁
Chris you are the next generation of young people taking others to the next level,I am 64 years old I have watching you for about a year now ,I think you are doing a fantastic job keep up the fine work 🏹
Very well done video Chris! I've never seen the Gen2Pro demonstrated and explained better. I buying one!
What I've used in the past to lock the bow to is a heavy threaded steel rod placed into the stabilizer hole below the grip with two jam nuts. Then place the rod into the jaws of my 5-inch bench vise. That is about as stable as one can get while leveling the bow for sight placement.
While I have 2 of the original Hamskea 3rd axis levels, recently started doing sight levelling a different way. Why? because the string itself is not usually parallel or plumb WITH the riser, what with shimming and tuning etc. Your sight is not mounted to the string, it's mounted to the riser. Plumb and level that then your sight off that riser not the string.
The sight needs to be set to the plane the string creates at full draw. The elevation block needs to be parallel with the string plane. The level in the scope needs to match the level on the string. 2nd axis position is set with the arrow in the horizontal (0 deg.) position. The 3rd axis is set with the arrow in the vertical (90 deg.) position. As you can imagine this process is quite complicated and requires special equipment. Precisely the reason Hamskea developed this level set
This is why I love traditional
Anybody else getting their hunting rig set up for the season 😆
I’m so addicted I start working on my hunting set up January 16th only because the archery season in Missouri closes January 15th. 😁
One more tournament on the 17th and then I am putting away the 23s and breaking my hunting arrows back out. My hunting arrows are pretty dialed, but I am sure I will still find things that are not "perfect enough" and be fine tuning until the early archery season opens back up in AZ on August 20th.
Would if I had money for a new bow, mine isn't doing to good
Gonna be buying a V3 27 the august
Been done since February 😂
Hey I just helping out, it gets a little better/solid fit when you put it on the serving not stringy on the strings 👍🏻
I noticed when you draw your bow, your arrow tip comes almost to the edge of arrow rest/riser/shelf with maybe only a half-inch of tip extending. Could you do a vid on arrow length, weight, spine, etc? That would be awesome! I’m also curious about your stabilizer (counterweight?) setup. Does that have to be tuned to you or the bow or is that an out-of-the-box setup. Thanks!! Love you channel.
Thanks Cris! I was referred to this channel by Jeff Sturgis, been watching for a couple months, God Bless!
Awesome video! Just ordered the bottomlands hat cant wait to get it!🐝
Awesome video Chris! I'm gonna have to try one out!
I've been waiting for my gen2 for 7 weeks.
This is difficult to explain, but the 1st Axis is the tilt of the bow and can be any way you want because the 2nd and 3rd axes adjustments are the only ones that matter. 2nd and 3rd axes align a reference surface on the sight to be plumb with gravity (bubble in the center) at any shooting angle. After the 2nd and 3rd axes are set, I adjust the 1st axis so the bubble is centered with a relaxed grip at full draw because that makes the most sense to me, but 1st axis is optional and can be aligned to anything you want, including the string at brace.
The 2nd and 3rd axes align a reference surface to be parallel with gravity at every angle and all that is needed to do so is two different angles. 0ish degrees and 45ish degrees are common. This reference surface must be parallel with the adjustments of the sight. The 3rd axis does not have to be done at full draw because bow torque or anything else that happens at full draw will not affect a correctly selected reference plane on the sight. We zero the sight to the trajectory of the arrow, not the bow, and the trajectory of the arrow is affected by gravity.
Is the arrow released at full draw or at brace ?
I'm not an expert, I just made my own adjustments to a sight for the first time! But, I think your statement might be correct for a fixed sight only. With a slider sight, your rail is that first axis and if that isn't level your shots are going to move left or right depending on where the housing is on the rail.
@@d500mag2 The bubble itself is referenced to gravity, orienting another surface or string to gravity is unnecessary, but you can do it if you want to.
@@KA-lm6sp I may have gotten the axes confused. I'm referring to whichever axis is roughly parallel to the arrow shaft (2nd?). The bubble is controlled by gravity and the other axes are adjusted to it. Anything else you align with gravity is arbitrary so I choose what I think will be most consistent which is the natural angle of my grip with the string drawn back. Put another way, the arrow doesn't care if it is rotated, it only cares if it is pointed in the right direction.
Every time I do this, I set the 1st and 2nd axis. Then I place the level on the bow, ensuring the bow is level, and then rotate the bow in my vise from -45, 90, +45. I believe I am accomplishing the same thing, just not drawing the bow and I do not use a plumb line. Am I way off? Basically as the bow is angled up and down, I reference the level on the bow with the level on the scope.
Technically you should be at full draw for 3rd axis. I think it's a pain in the ass though lol.
You can always shoot some good uphill and downhill shots and see if you're hitting center too.
The third axis is tough.....needs to be micro adjustable.
You are definitely making very good use of your new camera.
A good day when there's s new Chris Bee video🙌🏽🐝
I've had this for a few months now. it is great when used together with the Brite sight 3rd axis level tool
Brite site blows. I wouldn't rely on that. I had two and neither of them where level with the frame. Its a common issue with that. The levels aren't ever glued in level with the side mount. They are basically useless.
@@johnwalter6410 the level in my brite site was off too but It's as easy as sticking the hamskea tool on the plate and using it to level the brite site first. I could honestly care less about the level not being true it's got a flat plate on it Even if you don't have the hamskea tool 2 little bubble levels at home depot cost 99 cents
@@basebilljr07 Yeah I hear ya for for over $100 for a piece of angle iron and two levels it should be level and square.. Not everyone is as smart as you and I to figure it out and fix it.
Letssssss gooooo. Super excited for this video! Keep up the hard work Chris!
I have a laser inside of a shaft that splits the beam in to a perpendicular line so when it’s noc’d I can make sure everything is proper
Anything made by hamskea is top notch and a step above the rest
Chris, I have the ambush green trx 34 and love the look of the strings on your bow man. What strings do you use and what color is that considered? Gold? Thanks!
If you are looking for a quiet AC for your shop, check out mini splits
im looking at the mathews v3 27 and the hoyt helix... do you have a recommendation?
If you can, get to a pro shop and shoot both of them. I am sure you'd have no problems with either of them. It is just a matter of what feels better to you and what features might suit you better.
Brian C will do im going Wednesday, thank you.
God bless you man you inspire me so much!! God bless u!!
That’s really Cool nice work chris
Will that work for HHA Tetra ?
Im buying a recurve.
🤣
i used a recurv for hunting now I use a hoyt bow
Hey Chris I’m 13 and wanting a good bow that I don’t have to change the mods every time my draw length changes. Any suggestions? Also looking for a sight.
get a mission craze my man. i had one when i was your age and loved it. i killed several deer and i killed my first bear with it when i was 15.
I would get a mission switch it is a not a super kiddy bow and compared to my old craze the grip is way better and you can make quick switches for the draw length, plus it isn’t super expensive I mean like I shoot a prime black which is a very adjustable bow but that is also more expensive compared to a switch
I'd say PSE stealth carbon
Nice T-shirt 👍🏼
Outstanding video thanks
I’m not sure about this one sorry. All you need to do is hold your sight on a plumb door jam in your house, pivot up and down 45* set your bubble and your done. I have been doing it for years on a bunch of bows works every time
Some of us don't trust the door jams (or the molding surrounding them) to be plumb.
I do construction and remodeling for a living. I suggest that no one trust a door jam to be level unless you have checked it with an 8’ level and or have installed it yourself (I almost never see a plumb door jam - LOL). A Plumb line is the best way to ensure that you have a perfectly vertical line to check the 3rd axis.
@@gsanningditto! Not one plumb door jam in my cookie cutter house. Lol
I'll test it out. I literally have absolutely nothing better to do.
Hello Chris!🐝🐝🐝
Love mine!
Welp, guess i need one 😅😂
I can tell You’ve been watching flair! Hahaha “dealios”
Hey Chris I just got into shooting a compound bow want should I work on?
Your form
Still trying to get my hands on one :(
Love the videos
I think the Brite Site 3rd Axis Leveler is easier to use and doesn't require manipulating the bow while simultaneously trying to read bubble levels. Not impressed by this device at all.
I dont think thats true 1st axis. I could be wrong.
💪💪💪🙏🙏🙏🙏😇🥰🥰🥰🥰 thanks 🙏 I
Not first
Doesn't seem like the best way to adjust third axis.
You can get close say in a britesight but this is the best way because 3rd axis is all about torque, torque inherent in the bow as a result of an offset cable system, and shooter induced torque. For this reason, 3rd axis can only be properly set at full draw, and by the individual the bow belongs to.
NOTIFICATION SQUAD
This price in insane. Production cost for this is less than 10usd. What a ripoff
That's that way for everything and it's not made of cheap plastic or parts it will last you a lifetime buy once cry once
@@mustang268 I had it in hand, it has very cheap finish... as I mentioned above, couple usd for production, couple for the package and logistic, couple usd for matketing. 10 usd is max. So if you want to make fast earning 29usd is resonable, 39 is price premium. 79usd is rip off.
@@gamingking7578 a cheap plastic one is 20 bucks and will break this lasts a lifetime I have the generation 1 model and it's the total opposite of what you said
@@mustang268 It is not. Lot of people didnt like rev 1, that was made on 3D printer. This one is better for shore, but is wayout of qualiy one... This is the fact. 80usd fot plastic part... Lets be honest, it is not just ripoff it is insane.
First! 👍 keep it up
2nd
1st
Beat me to it 🤣