COST ME BIGTIME! OOPS! Limited Slip Differential! DANA 35 Project Jeep 1995 Wrangler 4.0 YJ
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ธ.ค. 2022
- Part 1: Parts Cannon!! Can it be saved? 95 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 • Parts Cannon!! Can it ...
Part 2: Frustrating Diagnosis! It LIVES AGAIN! Jeep Wrangler 4.0 • Frustrating Diagnosis!...
Part 3: Old Jeeps Die HARD! Thermostatic Switch and Water Pump! 95 Wrangler 4.0
Part 4: Razor Sharp Gears!! NOT Good! Project Jeep 1995 Wrangler 4.0 • Razor Sharp Gears!! NO...
Part 5: Smallest Shaft Ever! FRIED Flywheel! | Project JEEP! 1995 Wrangler YJ • Smallest Shaft Ever! F...
Part 6: Exhausting! Project Jeep YJ 4.0 Wrangler • Exhausting! Project Je...
New "Wife unit" T-Shirts & Designs for the Season! • Old Jeeps Die HARD! Th...
Customer States: Engine barely runs and has a severe lack of power. It also has the occasional no start or long cranking before it starts. So far I've found vacuum leaks, clogged ports, antifreeze leaks from the water pump and the electric fan is damaged. I had the fuel pump, filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, and a distributor cap and rotor. It also has a new coolant temp sensor, O2 sensor, MAP, intake temp, IAC and throttle position sensor replaced. The ECM / PCM has been replaced too. See part one.
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What???? My OCD was screaming seeing a dirty yoke go back on LOL
Simple trick to torque ring gear bolts..
Stick the hub and axle into the tire laying flat on the ground with the axle pointing up in the air. Stick the carrier onto the spline of the axles just like it would be in the rearend housing. Now the axle and tire holds the carrier while you use a torque wrench to torque the ring gear bolts
Reeeeee! one thing... according to the Eaton Differentials Owners Manual (page 35), when assembling the ring gear to the differential the small shank bolts are supposed to go in the smaller clearance holes of the ring gear. You put them all in the larger holes of both ring gears on both differentials.
Quote from page 35:
"Some Eaton performance differentials are
machined with multiple ring gear bolt patterns to
accommodate many models of factory ring gears
and unique aftermarket ring gears. Select the
pattern that offers the tightest fit to the fasteners
for the intended ring gear. An example would be
Dana 44 units. Ring gears exist with 3/8”, 7/16”, and
1/2” fasteners. Eaton performance differentials for
this application are typically machined with both
7/16” and 1/2” clearance holes. This allows the
fitment of the two smaller bolt sizes into the small
pattern, and the larger fasteners into the larger
hole pattern, thus ensuring sufficient material
under the bolt heads to allow proper tensioning of
the fastener. A close fit between the bolt and the
differential is not required if correct ring gear bolts
are used."
When general mechanics get involved with assembling and setting up differentials, great comedy is always the result! Too bad the customer always pays the price.
Don't forget to clean out the axel tubes and the vents
Vents are commonly overlooked. I never changed a wheel seal on a big truck without cleaning the vent. Along with a few other steps not found in the manual, I had the lowest comeback rate of anyone in the shop.
Need to get you a manual on how to set up a differential. This was not set up correctly. I hope it works for you.
In the aircraft world we put the bearing races in the freezer the night before. Take them out one at a time and IMEADITLY install them. In some instances, we will also warm up the part getting the race. We use an oven, not a torch, when able at a couple hundred degrees.
Here is a "farmer" trick for installing bearing races that I learned 55 years ago from my father. Slightly grind the exterior side of the old race and use that to tap in the new race. Removing a slight amount of metal from the old race means it won't get stuck in the hub when installing the new race. It succeeds every time.
I'm a big fan of a little heat. I use an electric hotplate to heat-up the ring gear and bearings, then they just set into place. Once cooled, they are on and done!
doin it on a lift looks alot better than doing it on a hard cold wintery ground
Ray I’m sure that you torqued to specks all of the bolts that needed to be torqued. Also that you crossed all of the tees & dotted all of the i’s pertaining to new Jeep rear ended parts installation😊 You don’t want😱Thanks for taking us with you on Project Jeep
Looks like you forgot to insert the retaining set screw in the disc. The disc is threaded and the inner axle retainer sleeve has a groove that allows for the set screw to keep it aligned properly.
I noticed the same thing.. hit the comments to see if anyone else noticed.. perhaps not needed with these guts though.
What time stamp?
Hi Ray, On both carrier the bolts for the ring gear go in the smaller holes... The bolts will shear off under load
He mentioned setting pinion preload. Would have been good to see or explain the process.
This man is building a Jeep for himself under the wife units radar, legendary.
That jeep is a customer's car.
it would be the best if that was the case because he's literally in front of her nose and its on video online lol
Maybe Wife Unit is the customer ...
@@bedlamite42 if that was the case, Ray would not have said that he wants first dips, if that jeep is ever for sale.
I thought the Jeep was going to a subscriber?
enjoy your videos, 40 years in the business, 4 shops, made a lot of mistakes, but did a lot of good as well. JLH
Assuming the YJ owner must be a close friend of Ray’s. As a longtime owner of a ‘92 YJ with over 400K miles, the ROI to having a professional wrench on a YJ no longer exists. The “Jeep thing” will bleed you dry in short order! But obviously all YJ owners are psychos since we are all watching Ray rehab this beast and by rights I ought to have YJ PTSD long ago. Thanks for saving this classic Ray!
A man of integrity, this is why you will be successful in life! My mechanic is as well, which is why I use him.
Tip of the day when you dont have bearing installation tools. Split the old race with a 1mm cutting disc on an angle grinder and use it against the new race to drive it in . If you drive the new race into the housing below level the old split race can go in too because it is the right size and then pull out easy due to being split.
Not many people think about using the old bearing inners.
@@stevecobratei8538 or want to save them in case the New one doesn't fit after All. had to dot hat with my drive shafts Because the documentation for my car is in parts incomplete
"Always gotta go back and try to wipe manually after some kind of a catastrophic failure."
That's good advice with multiple applications.
Ray, don't forget that the speedometer drive ratio will need to be corrected to agree with the new axle ratio. Also may need additional correction to match whatever tires will be used.
So many people forget about that.
11:01 Introducing the new, Goat Press!!!
Speedo drive gear needs replaced to fix this
We jeepers don't forget about it.. we just dont bother 😆
Good call!
An interesting side effect from watching you work on all kinds of vehicles... 🤔.
You 'figuring things out' has reminded me that things are 'figure-outable' 🤣.
Thanks Ray. 👍
I know Ray is a very competent operator so I know that he will have torqued the 4 bolts retaining the carrier to the diff housing to spec. He will also have tightened the pinion nut and preloaded the collapsible pinion collar so that he has the right rotational drag on the pinion, taking into account the extra drag of the seal. However, for the sake of sanity on my part, I wish he would shown this or at least mentioned these aspects. Retired mechanic/machinist in Land Down Under.
Thank you. Yes, that would've been good to see.
But alas, he wasn't competent enough to put the ring gear bolts into the holes on the ring gear that actually fit them.
Have always been hesitant about attempting differential maintenance and/or replacing a gear set. Don't want to wish more work for you, but I hoped to see how to use the measuring devices to setup a new gear set. Happy to see the process can go smoothly, as well.
You take a dial gauge with a magnetic base and stick it to the rear axle housing or the pumpkin housing put the end of the dial gauge up against one of your gear teeth and hold the pilot bearing and rattle gear back and forth and you should get a reading of about in. 015 also if you want to mess with somebody take that high spot blue put it in the middle of a dollar bill folded in half and dropping on the shop floor and let them put it in their pocket that blue will be everywhere have a great day
The beauty of the exacting tolerances of the Eaton differential. I have installed three of them now and was able to use the shims that came out of each diff to get the perfect pattern. Only had issues with a pinion on one of them and had to add .010 to the shim to get it to go deeper in to the ring gear.
Hi Ray, next time you might want to use the old bearing to tap the new one in. It is always the perfect size... Good luck for '23 and have fun.
I always like to reuse the old races for this. Grind the inner or outer diameter just a little so it doesn't get pressed on with the new bearing and works great, usually.
I do believe that the old bearings were not the same size as he invested in a different piece of machinery than was previously installed. Since he did exactly that with the axle bearings, it stands to reason that he most likely thought the same thing and then realized that that solution wouldn't work off camera and decided to not add that bit in for the sake of time. We've also seen him use old bearings to press in new bearings in at least a couple of older videos from when he was still working at other shops. You're thinking right but there are probably extenuating circumstances to also consider.
I have a couple of brass punches just for this reason. Softer metal will not score the steel races.
Hey Ray, the old race is what I always used. Works great. 👍Best to mop those axle tubes.
Use a broom handle and shop towels punch the bore from the wheel to the center. 1 pass pr shop towel set. But it's to late now.
That was a super interesting video for me……a registered mechanical moron. It is so cool to see how stuff works. I enjoy tinkering on cars but afraid of major projects and you make them look so easy I find myself wanting to try some……but my massive intellect keeps me in check and I live vicariously through this channel. My wisdom is mostly comprised of recognizing how much I don’t know.
A couple of words of advice from someone who builds differentials/axles for a living, the tooth engagement pattern should be pretty close as hopefully the pinion height will not have changed, unless there is a massive difference in the bearing depth or pinion length, however the backlash on the teeth is fairly important and should be measured with a dial test indicator, on our differential setups we aim for 12 to 17 thou, on my Mazda it was 3 to 7 thou which is almost undetectable on the lower end. The pre load on the pinion should get you around 12 to 17 inch pounds of drag without an oil seal fitted (the oil seal will double your drag if not more) well done on the rebuild, just don't take things for granted though
Yeah Ray, THAT is why you’re going to need a MASSIVE amount flush for working on differentials. The cleanliness of your work is JUST as important as it for MAJOR engine work, and JUST as important as it is for proper assembly. 😊
I certainly hope Project Jeep owner is grateful for your generosity!
I was taught in mechanic school to turn snaprings w/ flat side towards where the load will be. They are stamped when made. One side is sharper.
99% sure you should have added the limited slip oil additive.
you may want to use some sacraficial bearings to set your shims up first ...... Been there done that, ended up swapping both axcels to dana 44's and went with eaton E lockers.
this takes me back Ray when i used sockets and old bearings to drift new one in never had a failure
I can't tell you how many times I've shut off the tv to watch your videos. I love them. My ex and I used to race mud trucks and so I'm familiar with all this. So interesting to watch!
The bolts at 6:35 should have went in the smaller holes, enjoying the Jeep series Ray, cheers!
same with the Dana 35, would worry about the loose fit around the bolts shearing off or causing them to back out
He don’t know shit about setting gears up correctly!
Failure is guaranteed!
You forgot RHEEEEEEEE!
Oh crap yeah, you can see those bolts will shift, or at a minimum should have “sleeved” them, if possible, that Jeep will be back on the lift in a week or 2.
I thought you should set the pinion depth first, then install the crush leave last and set preload. If you don't set the pinion depth, you will need a new sleeve if you need to add or remove pinion shims later.
he lacks the expertise, trials and errors.
PLEASE remove the front spring shackles from the frame and check the shackle hangers for cracks at the frame! I've had two of those YJ's and found cracks on both front shackle hangers! If one of those breaks at speed...it couldn't be good! Love what you do and happy to see your business doing well!!!
It is necessary to add a four-ounce bottle of friction modifier for optimum performance (if friction modifier has not already been added to the petroleum-mineral based gear oil that the customer selects).
Would like to have seen you spend some time cleaning the axle tubes . Also get yourself some aluminium or brass pieces of scrap round to use as punches /drifts/ dollies to install those bearing cones. As a machinist ,I can tell you those parts are softer than you may think. I often machine bearings for custom applications,usually in the high performance field.
Totally agree with thoroughly cleaning the axle tubes. Residue fine bearing/gear material will destroy gear and bearing surfaces in no time. On the other side, I have also have a 4M long lathe and make custom diameter sleeves/slugs to "assist" bearings and seals into their housings - unfortunately Ray does not have a lathe - yet. Retired mechanic/machinist in Land Down Under.
Yes, I was cringing at 22:11 when Ray scraped out a fistful of swarfe but didn't do anything other than a desultory spray of the first couple of inches of the axle tube, either side of the diff. At the very least, I would have stuck an oil-soaked cloth on the end of the axle and pushed it in, to shove the detritus to the diff where it can be removed easily. Rinse and repeat a couple of times.
@@oldcynic6964 exactly
Very nice of you to do the upgrade. Good for the customer, fun for us, expensive as hell for you!! Great entertainment!
Being fair is one thing throwing $500 worth of parts in that for free it's just stupid if that's the case
@@shanefluhr6454It's Ray's Jeep, Einstein. Why would he hold an online voting contest to determine what upgrades he was going to do to a customer's Jeep?
In the old days all the shop manuals had instructions and pictures for putting "white lead" on the ring gear to adjust the pinion mesh for proper tooth engagement.
I'm just a guy who works to maintain my own vehicles on occasion and I learn so much from watching your vids. Thanks!
Good morning, Ray. More Project Jeep is always a good thing.
Nicely done! Only thing I might have done differently would be to lube all the bearings during assembly so there was no dry spinning.
Grease on the outer bearings sorted them and the carrier/pinion bearing would be at least half covered when filled with oil
HE CLEARLY DID THAT.
@@davidhayden9336 Saw no lube applied to carrier or pinion bearings upon installation.
It never ceases to amaze me how much junk comes out after you thought it was "clean". I just changed my rear diff fluid and "cleaned" it out, using brake cleaner... then I wiped it out and more junk comes out... then I sprayed more, and wiped again, more junk comes out. It didn't need to be perfect because the gears looked pretty good but still.
Ray, I am Old School but we Never Pressed/Inserted a Bearing without Thoroughly Oiling them...
Bloody great work Ray. Here in the UK, we have the legend mechanic/inventor/engineer Ed China . He is also meticulous , conscientious and entertaining. glad that the new shop is working out so well.
I have compared Ray and Ed China in my mind many times. Many similarities to my way of thinking.
Would be proud to have either of these guys work on my vehicle. True pro’s and a joy to watch.
Miss watching Edd
I swear they are trying to drive me nuts with the Landrover rebuild.
Ed China is a genius!
Watching the snap ring being installed. Saw the rounded edge facing out. The sharp edge needs to face outward for max staying power.
I saw the same thing and replied also. Wish I would have saw your post first.
If the snap ring is relying just on that small area where the "curve" is on the edge, it'll fail no matter which way you install it.
If it's the correct diameter for the groove and application, it'll hold in either direction.
Snap rings are not high stress fasteners, been a mechanic sinse 1977 and never had an issue installing snap rings in either aspect.
Sharp or round edge makes no difference. The depth the ring goes into the groove makes the rounded edge irrelevant. Engineers are clever like that.
The rounded edge goes to the outside, just like on a.c. compressors. He installed it correctly
@@iffracem Exactly, the only reason there is a rounded edge and a sharp edge is due the the manufacturing process when they are punched out. The metal deforms a bit before the die shears through.
Love your race driving tools. Been doing the same thing for 40 years because I don’t do it every day. It’s fine. It works. You do you!!!
(11:03) the Jack press sounds like it’s cheering your work lol😂
You might want to check I think you need an additive for the clutches in that rear end.
@1:40... A limited slip isn't a locking diff. You know that. @6:43... Yes, green threadlock since these will never come back out unless you're rebuilding the diff again. @8:45... Using the top of your tool cart like a workbench is making me cringe. Maybe it's time to put some stuff away so your workbench is able to be used as a workbench. @10:30... It's easier to flip that over. Put the bearing on the bottom and push the differential into it. @12:00... Just drop the bottom beam of the press one spot. @26:12... It's just happy to see you. @40:45... You need a magnet. Either a pocket screwdriver with one on the end or one of those collapsible ones. @46:00... I think I would've installed a drain plug while the diff was apart. @48:00... Does that Eaton diff need a limited slip additive? Better read the instructions.
Opening scene, I actually closed my eyes and said a tiny, little "no". 😂
The pad is called scotchbrite we use it for body prep in painting too.
A great video on something not commonly dealt with Ray. As for the retainer being retained by a retainer...that's a lot of retention:-) If you go and look at the pattern on the ring gear when you 'ran it' with the impact..the wear pattern is spot on..same as with the paint. It is kinda cool see all of those parts zipping around in there at speed. As for the setup...I would say you have done this a time or two. And the lube fill...LOL...I dunno how much it was but it's worth every red cent to not having to deal with trying to shove long bottles in tighter confines. As for the hose popping off...call it a christening...and then clamp it as I'm sure you probably have done.
This series is a really fun batch too...and you getting the full gear set vs just the carrier etc once you learned of the ratio options....to me, that just drives home all the more of the kind of tech that you are...top notch...right with Eric O. 🙂
Happy New Year to you and yours Ray...it's been a heckuva 2022...onward and upward!!
Would be nice to see how you picked the shims, adjusted backlash, etc.
See, I told this guy is a great solver of puzzles. Who else would have thought of using a brake tool as an adapter for a press?
NOBODY.
For those who seem to think the higher the number, the higher the ratio, you are wrong!! He just LOWERED the diff ratios. A 3.07:1 diff is HIGHER than a 3.56:1
Love watching your content, I think I now know when garages give me jargon I know what they are talking about so they can't rip me off big thanks Ray . 🏴
Someone's probably already said it, but you flip the old race around and use that to knock your new ones in if you don't have a driver set. If it's recessed you cut a slit in the old one so it can easily be removed.
Without the proper tool this is nothing more than a backyard mechanic
I always just made sure they were stacked facing the same direction, that way you can gently pop it out from behind with a chisel being careful not to damage the new race, usually by wrapping the end of the chisel in a red shop towel.
.008 backlash
@@roberttexas3618 I CALL HAX!!! Although it is nice to see him with a spot of really good luck for a change!
@@MaynardFreek one has money to rent a garage.
Great work Ray, All the best to you and your fine family for 2023
Love project Jeep Ray! Differentials aren't something we see you dissecting often. So glad you're enjoying working for yourself. Great things coming for you and the family in 2023.
Thoroughly enjoying Project Jeep. I have a suspicion that we'll be seeing more "projects" in the future which is absolutely fine by me.
Happy new years Ray much love from your neighbors up north ❤️
Funny story. There was noise along the trans drive. My wife said Diff, but the Ford-trained salesman we had said “flywheel”. The wife unit was right. I was the pleb who ran accounting and the network. I bought a full end-to-end rear end. Workmates were laughing I’d attempt to do it. They weren’t aware of my past mechanical learning. I succeeded and still bring it up with them for laughter.
Ray knows about brinelling which will shorten the life of a bearing. As the roller or ball rebounds (bounces) from the impact of the sudden force applied to the race it will 'dent' one or the other. Kind of like you have a 50-50 chance of breaking the jaw bone or your hand bone when defending yourself. Pro- tip Aim at the throat. The 'dent' (s) are call brinelling and is the failure point. It may start out microscopic but small things lead to larger things. Usually. Takes years in most cases. Sell it before it becomes an issue.
Good work ray as always nice to project keep moving along
Rey, this is certainly one of you mos interesting videos to date. Priject Jeep is really impressive.
Thank you.
One of you best videos, excellent viewing. Thank you.
As a longtime fan I absolutely loved the straight jump cut to big hammer. Very masculine. *Makes Tim Taylor sounds*
Sorry you dug yourself a hole with this, looked like it needed it though. I hope it helps to know that this series on the jeep and especially the total diff rebuild is one of the most interesting things you have done, absolutely fascinating and very informative. Really enjoying this whole thing.
These project series are awesome. Allows for someone to see and understand multiple facets of a particular vehicle.
Respect for a man that sticks with his word, ray legend
I’m retired, and I just found this channel, really enjoying watching you work. It’s great to see someone taking pride in their work.
I've never seen what goes into repairing/replacing a rear-end differential. Great video!!!
Old/worn brake pads make wonderful shims for pressing things on/off. Seem VERY strong.
You continue to amaze me with your ability and knowledge. I did however have a stroke when you teased us about hammering tge bearing in. But somehow I knew Ray would not actually do that and I was right. I continue to learn from who I consider the best mechanic I've known. Thank you Ray.
hahaha you had me, I was screaming NOOOOOO to hammering on that bearing!
Ray I love watching your videos but this diff install was a bit dodgy man.
I work at a drivetrain shop specialising in gearbox and diff rebuilds. Pinion preload should’ve been set by a drag gauge or torque wrench, same as the carrier bearings.
Backlash is important and should be checked with dial indicator, feel is ok but really need the dial indicator to confirm it.
How did you check pinion height, did you swap over the shims from the old pinion or at least check it against the height given by Yukon?
Need to check this stuff otherwise will find the diff is going to whine and not last as long as it should.
It's ok he's got TH-cam $😂
He said he would set the pinion preload after checking the gear mesh. He just didn't film/show it.
Same with the backlash.
Why do people assume a professional didn't do required steps? Tedious, boring work like that doesn't make good video. So stuff isn't shown. Doesn't mean it's not done.
@@TEDodd Setting up a differential is all about tedious. Every time one setting changes another moves out of adjustment. You just have to keep fiddling with it.
@@TEDodd I agree with you, but I would have liked it if he told the viewers that he DID set the backlash and preload, and just demonstrated the final result, instead of pretending he didn't do it. I know setting backlash and pattern is very fiddly and time-consuming, no need to show all that, but at least let us know for sure he did it. In fact TBH, his forward drive pattern looked like he needed to move the pinion in toward the ring. Which would change backlash, requiring moving the carrier to the left, etc etc. But then again, I'm a perfectionist, and perfection isn't necessary on an old Jeep like this.
@@TEDodd Also, I think he knows that comment generation on youtube is a good thing. If you know what I mean.
I'm impressed the backlash set so easily (1st shim try). I did a similar project back in my AF days on a '70 Dodge 1ton 4x4 (Dana 60?). Took most of a day of trial and error and a dial indicator measurements to get the gear adjusted according to the tech order specification. Too bad we didn't get paid by the hour for that one! 😳
Ray doesn't really know what the backlash is without using an indicator.
@@tc6580 This is true.
In order to maximize life and performance, it IS critical to adjust backlash to mfr's spec. It'll run quiet, too.
With that said, the engagement pattern on the gears that Ray got with his first try with the shims is really good!
What does AF days mean? Maybe I’m stuck n stupid tonight.
Ya...never got a carrier shimmed and pattern set that quickly on jeeps or dodges. That and multiple trys with the dsmned crush washers!
I almost always used the old shims/spacers and lucked out most of the time. In some situations I swapped them for tighter backlash settings. But the carriers settings are to the case are set at the factory for the cast case variants. The carriers are usually machined to tight specifications so the old spacers are usually right where you need to be .
Great video Ray. Looking forward to seeing the front diff next.
Great episode! I can not wait for the front to be shown.
Been waiting for this Ray.. Happy new year to you and the family from Ireland 🇮🇪
The hammer was probably as bad as pressing on the cage lol.
Should always press on the inner race not the cage.
Installed bearing races for 20 yrs with a punch, never an issue.
Enjoying your audio and creativity prowess!
If some of the people that I've dealt with (& unfortunately, due to my remote location, I still have to deal with) were people-of-their-word like you Ray, my life would be much much gooderer.
You, sir, are a champ, no doubt about it.
Happy New Year to you & yours bud. And, as always, greetings from The Land Down Under.
Just much much gooderer and not super duper gooderest? Why settle?
@@spacecowboy2957 I had originally thought of going super duper gooderest, but then decided that that might have been going just that tiny little bit too far on this occasion ..... :-D
@@brisman1963 Well, it IS New Year's and you might as well finish off the old and start the new living your best life.
@@spacecowboy2957 How very right you are SC2957.
Oh, & while we're on the subject, I'd also like to wish everybody a Happy, Prosperous, & Safe New Year.
Super good video. Now I know that you know every part of every car and how to take them apart and put them together while doing it all perfectly.
Um...thats a bit of a stretch,but he is quite knowledgeable.
Project Jeep is pretty cool I really enjoy watching it thanks Ray. And again I love the sound effects with the spray
Keep it rocking , learning watching your videos.👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
if you will place a bearing on a 100 watt lite bulb for about 1 hr then said bearing will fall in place . of course bigger the bearing more time needed. also heating with a heat gun will help
I've used a hotplate and a pan of oil. And at the same time putting the shaft in the freezer. Always works.
Don't forget to clean the axle tubes
Backlash? Should be 4 to 6 thousands has been my experience
I knew you would never hit the bearing with a metal hammer! Nearly had me flinching though!
Wow. Keeping up your end. Rehearing both axles and the speedo! You the man!
Ways I have made bearings go in easier is to freeze them. Let physics help. Love the channel.. you remind me of me 🤣💯
Did you mean the bearing races? Why would you freeze the bearings....that would cause the metal to shrink not expand. Soak the bearing in boiling water or heated oil to make it expand.
As an IT professional, I was really surprised to see you pulling differential parts out of a box labelled "Eaton", I'm used to them containing big heavy UPS systems lol, great to see the Jeep coming together
I honestly thought that he got a new electrical box delivery to replace the old circuit breaker electrocution hazard of the existing one. Nice to learn that they also do manufacture automotive parts.
Heh, as an IT pro myself… I’ve worked in Eaton plants where they make transmissions for semis… Eaton has a LARGE list of products they manufacture.
Retainer ception 42:45
Aww. I wanted to see you set the pinion preload on the lift.
LOL, I'm sitting in the control room of a data center with 2 Eaton UPS units on the floor!
another fabulous Video, Thanks Ray!!
My favorite part about using a whole can of brake clean at once is the few minutes after of seeing stars 😂