I Attached a 100,000 RPM MAX Castle Mamba to my 3D printed SUPERCHARGER..... Will it Survive?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ส.ค. 2022
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After the first video where we made this 3d printed supercharger, almost everyone who commented wanted to see if this thing could survive a full send with my castle mamba from my traxxas rustler. I have redesigned the motor mount and today we will see if my 3D printed supercharger can survive a castle mamba brushless motor on 3S lipo.
Supercharger Models
www.thingiverse.com/thing:544...
PARTS,
Inserts
amzn.to/3BjAu2d
Motor
amzn.to/3BjAu2d
Vented pull out dowel
www.mcmaster.com/98432A129/
Fasteners
www.mcmaster.com/98432A129/
Filament used DURAMIC 3D PETG Filament
amzn.to/3z1scck
Printed On FLsun V400
bit.ly/3Ig6Ig1
Twitter
/ majhardware
My Twitch
/ majorhardware
Cameras used.
BlackMagic Pocket cinema 6k pro
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Reddit
/ fanshowdown - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Hell yeah, we approve of this 😎
🤘😎👍 Sick!!!
Jeremy, build a life size one!!
I want to see this baby cooling a racing sim rig!
POGGERS DONUT MEDIA SHOWED UP
69th like 👉😎👉
SkyRC eFuel series. Adjustable voltage, up to 50A or 1200W output. Used it to do thrust test in range of 1000 watts and handle the inductive motor load like no one's business.
I think the motor needs 150A nominal
@@xthexder0 Obviously you've never messed with hobby grade electronics, they draw stupid amounts of power.
It's a 90 amp esc
Or a server power supply, only 12/24V but cheap and lots of power
@@xthexder0 I have motors half that size that draw 1kw at full power. I have a pancake motor that probably weighs about the same as that one but pulls 2.8kw at max throttle.
Really woulda loved to see the fog with this one, would've looked insane.
Couldent agree more so sad,
May be a bit hard to do, though I don’t really know for sure, but I’d love to see this idea applied to a centrifugal supercharger. I also think if you bought an angle grinder and used the motor from that it would work much better
That’s a good idea more power and a wall plug
a 5inch angle grinder tops out at around 10,000rpm, but has a boat load more tq than the little motor hes using... i dont think it would work the way you have in mind
@@Krasher247 you could work around that with a system of either pulleys or gear ratios
@@Krasher247 i think torque could be better because you can try to go bigger with the impeller. but if that doesn't work you can always just take out the gearbox that's built in
@@da_poopoo_dealer3152 putting plastic gears on a angle grinder sounds like a intresting party😂
I'm amazed by how much power those 3d printed parts can take
Right! I have seen a bunch of printed gears on youtube way exceed my expectations.
I think a big one is due to how fantastic the tech has gotten, especially comparing it to older 3D printers. Im glad the tech has gotten to this point thats for sure
@@DeathProductions200 there has been almost no tech advancement in 30 years....the price point just got lower.
@@DieselRamcharger Standardized heated beds, larger print area, standardized auto-leveling, and all of these getting cheaper.
But all of those things existed for the most part.
@@joeleonard9965 bringing the price point down is scale of economy, not advancement. auto bed leveling is a crutch not a feature. its still better to have a machine that is mechanically accurate. but i digress. all the things you named are just features that have become common place to commercial {commodity} hobby printers. 3D Printing has existed as Rapid Prototyping since the 1970's. Which is where the term "RepRap" has its roots. RepRap being the OpenSource community that invented the thing you call 3D printing today...3D printing being the china sales gimmick tacked onto what was essentially an ass ton of stolen i.p. Then you got fake as fuck's like Prusia....but anyhoo.
It would be cool to make twisted screws and see if it makes a difference.
Screw style supercharger will add a lot of axial load. So it will try to blow out the back and front housing as it will constantly push outwards along the centerline.
Meaning, more friction and less efficiency.
@@CreamAle that could partly compesated by using helical gear producing axial load in the opposite direction, thrust bearings are defientely still needed tho
I've always assumed that when there is a spiral shape to those 'screw' it compressed the air beofre putingit into the head... I guess this is why I am watching COMPUTER NERD STUFF and NOT GEAR HEAD Stuff LOL :D
@@Nobe_Oddy technically you're not wrong.
it will add more cfr for sure
We need a whole series on this project of it just getting more and more refined
Connecting the batteries in parallel would help with a sustained flow of energy. And we still would love to see the cooling performance of this beast
Just what i also was about to say. Agreed.
For the noise... did you ever consider helical gearing instead of straight cut gears?
What noise? All I heard was POWAAAAARRRRRR
All I heard to start is a nice rev limiter
Someone get this heathen outta here
i would not do that because helical gearing tends to but stress onto the houseing and could lead to twist it slightly. screw could touch each other.
or double helical or what they call it when it it looks like an arrow.
pleaaaaseeee, don´t stop this series until the whole thing breaks in 1k pieces. Its awesome, and i need one of these in my life
we ask for things and sometimes expect a lot . appreciate you always delivering top notch revisits even, thanks to you and thanks to all the idea thinkers
You still didn't grease the the main lobes. Grease between the lobes and the housing as well as the loves themselves will bring it further. Or alternately you could use silicon, teflon or graffite lubricant, but I think grease will give you more performance and bring down the sound some. Dry silicon by 3m would be my 2nd choice.
They aren't supposed to be touching in the first place... Maybe lightly oil the gears or graphite the gears, leave the rotor lobes alone.
I was thinking molybdenum disulfide grease because it's fantastic for imperfect surfaces. This is why it's used so often with powder cindered gears. I think it would work perfectly with 3D printed parts.
@@kleetus92 They are supposed to have extremely tight tolerances, so realistically you want them rubbing with grease for 3D printed parts, and let them wear to a natural tolerance
I bet the static pressure of this thing is grand. Should be good on a dense, thick radiator block.
Stick one of these on the base of like a rad tower and blow the air up through the stack. You could plumb them up so the water sinks as it cools and the super blows the air up so the heat is stripped away, out an exhaust stack.
For a laugh, wire it up to a pedal under the desk to control the power it gets.
@@joshuahadams vroom veeeerrrooooooommm
@@joshuahadams oh god you are a genius!
Actually, doubt it is. Roots style superchargers are at best 70% efficient, and those ones that have seals on the lobes. Given he lack of seals I'd guess its maybe 35% efficient. They were first designed to move air through tunnels.
@@ShaunMcCloud Thats cool to know, thanks.
5:41 a car battery will work fine for that thing. 12.6v nominal is near enough wha a fully brimmed 3s LiPO puts out and the capacity of a car battery is friggin nuts. 20,000mAh +.
And they can handle insane amounts of current oo, a car starter can pull 800A so that would be more than enough for the job
Depending on where you live, and what batteries you use.
My diesel engine requires a 80ah (80,000mah) but it does 13.7v
@@boziewz6125 A car battery is a car battery. Most of them are in the 500-750cca area and will take 20-30 amp hours to charge. The batteries you're talking about are gonna be AGM units for commercial trucks. Semis and the like. Have worked with those, too, but they're a bit much for what's going on here.
A standard 500cca car battery will be plenty for this project.
Also never once heard anyone rate car batteries by their capacity since they usually don't get used in applications where that matters all that much. They're instead rated in Cold Cranking Amps, IE how many amps the battery can supply the starter motor when it's 32F/0C out while holding enough voltage to run all the electrical accessories necessary for the engine to actually start, because that's the relevant statistic when shopping for car batteries. Once the engine starts all of the vehicle's electrical demands are supplied by the alternator and the battery is kept topped up so it's ready for the next start.
I only knew the rough capacity of them when I charged one with my RC charger one day.
@@snjert8406 Yep. Even a cheap 500cca car battery like I use in my 40 year old F150(A worn out 8.5:1CR straight six with a carb and basic hall effect distributor ignition really doesn't need much battery to start) will push 800+ amps at room temp. NO WAY IN HELL any of the wiring in that setup can even come close to handling that kind of draw! Something else would let the smoke out before the battery gave in.
@@TestECull if one battery isn’t enough, it’s very simple to parallel another on on top of it.
Another fine job! Can't wait to see where, and how far this project goes!
Man, I love your channel. You have the most original content. Every time I see you post a video I get super excited to see what you have for us. Keep up the great work. Always looking forward to see what you do next!
You could build an enclousure for the gears and then grease them, it will make it a lot smoother and quieter.
That motor is running _a lot_ slower than I would expect, a typical performance 540 sized motor in an RC car would be running two or three times that RPM or more. The low RPM suggests the motor is being loaded too much which would explain why it guzzles so much current. Direct drive is probably not doing you any favours here, gearing it down could really help. A toothed belt would probably be the way to go, you can buy the belts in a huge range of sizes and the pulleys are easy to print.
Did... you watch the video? He tried toothed belts, they snapped near immediately.
@@PewnyPL There are many types of belts. Those ones were not up to the requires spec, but there are others that would be.
@@PewnyPL I think it is obvious that the belts he used, were drastically too small/thin/weak for the task. He is trying to transfer something with what amounts to a rubber band, that is _dwarfed_ by the blower. Look to blowers that are actually on vehicles, the belt that drives them is drastically larger in proportion to the blower, than the belt he used.
I don't think he is going to find a belt the size, and strength he needs, in something that is going to fit in the space constraints he is trying to make it in. To make it belt driven, I think it would need a belt that is like, 15mm wide. A quick search online finds some 15-20mm wide belts, but they are roughly 480-500mm in length, used for either Gilmer belt drive systems to drive the water pump and alternator of a V8 engine, or high performance, mechanical fuel pumps for drag race engines.
Gearing down would reduce performance. Providing more power to the motor should be sufficient to handle the load
@@PewnyPL Have you seen the blower belts the dragster guys use? and an electric motor has peak torque fro ZERO RPM.
I literally subscribed for these 2 videos! Lol this thing is awesome! I'd love to see it painted even just spray painted "chrome" (silver) in the end maybe? Make it look like a real super charger! I can't wait to see where this goes! Keep it up! Time to go watch what else you have on your channel! Lol
I'm very excited for where this supercharger project is going!
Would love to see a Fan Showdown smoke test with this. Also I would be interested in its performance on a radiator, old school fan show down style.
Besides that, I wonder if there could be a version of this in an exhibition style computer. Jayztwocents did an LS themed pc once, a supercharger would fit in great in such a case.
I was thinking the same thing, I think figuring out how to mount one on that pc build would be incredible. Also want to see if putting seals on the screws like Top Fuel dragsters do would work here
Awesome episode, thanks for listening to us again and doing some more on this!
While the airflow seems pretty good, the thing that you also get with a roots vs a fan is the huge static pressure... I'd love to see how the static pressure of it compares to some fans.
So, my funny idea is... strap it to the air multiplier and see the air flow :D
That is such a cool looking 3d print!
this is really cool. I would like to see how it performs under load, like running full speed with a restriction on the outlet side like in an actual engine. creating static pressure may cause the supercharger to fail due to excess heat.
Could you use the same motor with an actual fan? I like the supercharger but would like to see such a big motor drive something like the cheater.
You'd probably need to beef up the build of the cheater in order to stand up to this suckers torque and RPM. I imagine that he would bump it once and then have to go pry at least one blade out of a wall or monitor.
At that point (again, defeating the point of 3D printed fan "blades") just a high performance fan from an RC jet. Let's see, the box from the one I played with once apon a time: "powerfan 400/6 EDF Unit".
At 12volts, 11a, 24,500 RPM 360gram thrust.
Still have that one, good as a handheld duster for a tower case when hooked to a car battery. It was only bough because it was a cheap way to get the 3" casing and decent fan blade. Add an extra $120 or so (to that approx $20 3" frame and blade) for a performance motor which turned more than double that at 12v.
THAT I don't still have, because go figure a cheap 3" mounted car airfilter doesn't catch dust small enough for a 4cylinder engine but big enough to jam a RC fan turning way to fast... If I had a better alternator, probably used some capacitors, and cleaned it often it would have probably lasted longer and give more air to the car, but I was 19, what can you expect.
Point of overly long story being, there are plenty of methods to throw large amounts of air, many are just outside the scope of this particular project.
He did with a smaller motor, and it already was way to much for a fan! 💣
@@luca6819 to be fair that smaller motor is waaay higher RPM than this one lol.
@@luca6819 We can reinforce the fan, make it out of carbon fibre lmao
It is so satisfying to hear it make that iconic supercharger whine! It'd be so cool to see it fine tuned!
Oh also, what about measuring the air temp difference between pre & post supercharger? Obviously an SC on a car needs an intercooler to cool down the compressed air, so I'm curious to see if this one is compressing enough to measurably heat up the air it's pushing.
he cant run it long enough he said that the battery dies too fast
this would be amazing to see, and easy to test!
I don't think you'd see any real difference since in this case the air isn't being compressed. A roots blower doesn't compress air in the rotor housing like a twin screw or turbo. It compresses it under the housing (intake plenum in a car) and the blower basically acts like a 1 way air valve. That's not to say it wouldn't get heated from friction, but I don't think there's enough there to make a measurable difference. Just my opinion though. Lol
The cooling is mostly done to increase the density I though, even if the air isn't heated. Could be wrong though.
1) the description uses the Amazon link for the threaded inserts for itself AND the Motor link.
2) depending on what the motor needs, you could probably find a wall wart for the required voltage, and get two (or more) to reach the required amperage. Cut and solder tips together to make things mate and you should be good. (this is he technique I used to salvage various PC/PSU fans to make a soldering ventilation setup.)
3) You're going to have to induce some amount of rotation on the Root extrusion. Current geometry is forcing air in pulses which make for weirder air measuring and might be causing additional, unneeded challenge for the drive system. I would say a minimum of 1 full turn across the length but 3 might be better; this should allow for a constant flow of air instead of air pulses.
Fun project.
Try balancing the rotors on a 2 little V stands and a file or sandpaper to remove weight where necessary. Also you can use whiteboard marker to see where the rotors are rubbing on both the housing and each other and sand down where needed.
Hook up the batteries in parallel til someone leads you to a power supply that can handle it. Long as you don't SHORT the batteries, you'll be 100% fine. You'll more than double your runtime, since not only will there be double the capacity but also each battery's only working half as hard, so they won't heat up as quickly.
Edit: Many people are suggesting you use a PC power supply. I strongly recommend NOT trying that. You’d have to bond all the 12v rails and pray to RNGesus that you’re not going to suffer a capacitor explosion.
Seriously guys. He’s pulling so much in-rush current he’s overheating the batteries. Go watch electroboom before advising others on the interbutts to use a PC power supply for an application like this.
Came here to say this. A power supply that can do what he wants won't be cheap.
Also, you can drive more current with less battery voltage drop since you are effectively halving the thevenin resistance.
a pc psu converted will be fine. if he gets a 1000w one with a large amperage 12v rail.
you can connect two in series for 24v, but you will need to isolate the negative rail from ground in one of the power supplies.
series would be better, you will have same voltage but more runtime
@@jimmyhackers8980 The problem is that the motor demand more than 12V. It's more like 50V.
Also, you will get quite the efficiency gain and noise reduction if you can get the rotors twisted so that two are always engaged.
As the compressor works, it will likely cause thermal expansion which could lead to increased drag and some other issues. (Just things to think about... They do in the metal units)
So glad to see you make this video
Now that you have proof of concept, we need this for a 360mm and 480mm radiator... Also making the intake so it fits a common foam air filter for a car. This is absolutely the coolest thing I've seen on this channel.
I’d like to see the sound difference from spiral cut gears. They are used more in passenger vehicles for noise.
I'm glad you are still working on this! Keep going, I want to see it fine tuned!
ngl when you put it with the gears at 2:58 sounded amazing, like some rev limiter
Another fine job! Can't wait to see where, and how far this project goes!😛😛
just use a regular car/ mc battery and a 100-150A fuse, remember to turn off LiPo mode on the esc otherwise it will not work.
you should see how much pressure that thing can produce. It might not move much air but the supercharger design can compress air unlike a normal fan, that would be cool to see if it can make a psi or two of pressure.
You'll never see a NHRA Funny Car or Dragster without a massive Supercharger. In the distance to the finish line, they drink 20USGal of nitromethane (very high combustability under high pressure) fuel funneled through 2" interior diameter fuel lines; they need A LOT of air to burn that much fuel. They don't actually burn all the fuel though. Much of it is lost out the exhaust as uncombusted fuel. So much power is produced, the clutch basically melts and can't be reused. Superchargers move air! Good job on the design, it looks like it works very well at speed. Looking forward to the next test with your new equipment.
Can I just say. Thankyou for uploading in 60fps.
Night and day switching from other creators to a video from yourself!
you should add a groove to the rotor tips that you can slide PTFE tubes to seal it, should help with efficiency.
should help with noise as well
My thought was to use playing cards as tip seals.
You should try using herringbone gears instead, they'll help reduce some of the parasitic drag from gear interactions and will also help keep them aligned.
This is a good idea actually.
Impressive! I thought it would self destruct in few first seconds of test. Great job and the sound is super cool!. This kind of supercharger designed for positive displacement boosting. Watt per watt against properly sized free moving axial fan it won't stand a chance for air volume. It's probably even lower than a centrifugal blower. BUT...it can build up high volume and pressure at much lower speed. I think will perform very good in low RPM super dense finned radiator.
That thing is super amazing and I can't wait for pt3
I would like to see a larger version. Something like for a 360mm or 420mm (I've forgotten which size the opening is) radiator.
A 360 is a triple 120mm fan set up and pretty common, a 420 is a triple 140mm fan set up and common on more high end air flow focused cases.
Both would be excellent.
@@gmailisaretard yeah, I know. I meant it in that way that I couldn't remember the size of the opening the supercharger has at the bottom. so if it's 120mm then go up to a 360mm rad. and for 140mm up to 420mm rad. I mean a 480mm radiator would also be cool ;P
A quick bit of research says you need up to 100A available for that ESC, so you'd need something like the Tektronics 2260B-30-108 which will do 0-30V at up to 108A. It's a lot of dosh to spend for an experiment though, at $3460 at Valuetronics in the US.
Maybe he could borrow one, or go to someones business to use it.
Goooooooooooooooooood damn.... maybe electroboom can make me one lol
I have a mamba max on a HongNor rc can, and it can use 1050A peek for 22 sec. Ans 150A nominal.... maybe you need to modify a welder?
a few pc power supplies combobbled together will do that and be a lot cheaper.
Please keep refining this, id love to see more of it
Awesome best thing I've printed so far thank you for sharing the files !! I put the twisted rotors in it and it spins great I would love to see if it would pus more air! Thanks again!!
12v lead acid car battery. Preferably, a larger truck or RV style will dump 100s of amps.
I have designed my vary own supercharger, it took me a couple of weeks to perfect it but now i think it’s ready. I would love to test it but i have no means of testing it. So i was wondering if you could print it and test it out for me
Maybe ship yours to him instead.
7:04 Yeah, well I'm completely bown ablay by your content. I love watching your videos. Keep it up!
Love that you used the donut hi low clip. That’s an excellent series
The high cfm/fpm is really more of a testament to the high output of that motor rather than the design of the supercharger. It would be interesting to see what kind of results you'd get if you took some of the more higher performing fans on the list and powered them with that motor. Assuming they don't just explode.
Of course you are right, but i think his point wasn't to really compare the thing to the fan-showdown as such a design wouldn't be possible with an a12x25 motor. It was just interesting to see how it performed.
I'd say the strength of a blower isn't it's maximum throughput in a relatively unobstructed application, it can rather perform well in a high static pressure environment where a conventional fan will not have the ability to produce any significant throughput.
Also testing the fan-showdown fans at such a speed (if they can even take it) would probably result in rather diminishing returns as evry fan design has a rpm range where it performs well (thats also why normal props, turbo props and plane turbines all have different blade shapes and counts).
Hope what i said makes sense 😅
@@cycl0n362 Yeah aside from normal fans potentially exploding, after a certain speed they might not even push air anymore. Basically cause cavitation like a prop in water just much less damaging to the props in air. lol
Might needs a bit of lubrication to not burn or melt the inside
Dang that thing RIPS! Can’t wait to see the next update on it!
Well I am glad you made a new motor mount I'm looking at biuldding a new pc and you sir have made me start to think about what I can do to incorporate my hobby in to another hobby
I have the first generation of that motor from when they first came out. blew my mind going from brushed to brushless!
Unless I'm missing something, your "supercharger" seems to be missing the most important part, the compressor. At this point, it's effectively a really fast paper shredder, minus the teeth. You should make screw shaped compressor wheels instead of flat ones, with a taper, so that the air at the end is squeezed harder than at the beginning. Or if you want flat wheels, the offset the lobes so that the air is squeezed tighter and tighter as it nears the exhaust.
It's a roots blower the lobs are offset just like a roots blower he showed this in the last video on this
Yeah, I was going to say, there's a lot of inefficiency in his design, given he barely is outperforming a conventional manufacturer fan with some aero optimization using a positive displacement style blower and an RC race car motor with a far stronger current.
How about he fixes the drive issues, before he starts trying to refine it?
Yea he said in his 1st video he wasn't trying to get a working compressor going for it. It's really just for funsies now
@@juicedmedia6623 Ok, good point, I just went and watched that previous video, and unfortunately, it's still the wrong design. If you have incredible tolerances, then the straight lobe design "can" work, in an engine that's got an abundance of excess energy to throw at the problem and requires as much air flow as possible (oxygen). However, in this case, where air movement is key, this is about as efficient as manually waving your hand over the heat sink.
Twin turbos on the intake could possibly reduce the strain on sustained output, also I'm not sure if it's applicable but the power supply recommended to run car audio subwoofers indoors could possibly work in this scenario, I believe they are called power inverters. They come in a wide variety of amperage aswell. One other thing that could probably help the overall function of the unit is to make the output side (or on a car exhaust) modified with a system that creates a Mandelbrot effect on the airflow, meaning it pulls the air behind it out along with it. This is seen in capillary action in plants, or when you plug part of the hose when you use it
Love this experiment, you get my sub!
Get a presure sensor and see how much pressure can build up (if it measures in mmHg it might be better.... If u buil boost attach it to a small 2stroke.or 4stroke engine
Actually I think you'd be surprised, those motors can definitely handle a lot more with enough power, even higher gearing. They're super torquey
if the ESC uses 12V you could just take a regular ATX power supply and run it of that.
A full charged 3s is like 12.6 would a normal psu have the balls to push it. If so what wattage min would I need as I have a couple laying around.
@@MajorHardware no. Just buy some batteries from CNHL, Ovionic Ampow, or even RDQ. You can only get 1800w out of a wall socket. I have a very high power PSU and it still can't match good LiPo's. If you REALLY want to use a power supply, look up meanwell 12v power supplies. You can probably get one that'll do 12v/100a but again, you're much better off with 10-20ah of 3s LiPo because even 10ah of Lipo at 20c is 200a
@@mitchellroberts7954 literally any good 1200W ATX PSU will do 100A at 12V. If you want more current there's also 1600W PSUs.
You could probably look into some rack server power supplies like diy perks used for his outdoor tv
I'm hooked on these videos, so crazy to see a 3d printed blower
We NEED another fan showdown!
I’d like to see a turbocharger design after these experiments that use the same motor and power source. 😏
Might need to print the impeller with some more exotic materials for stiffness and strength to withstand the forces, though.
What you're describing is a centrifugal supercharger and I'm absolutely here for it. Please build one next.
That's a procharger.
Awesome episode :D I really wanted to see these tests with centrifugal supercharger with direct drive motor which is i belive much simple and efficient.
Man that thing is cool. The mic doesn't do it justice I'm sure but it still sounds awesome. I could see that used in a sick water cooled engine block themed PC.
If it’s 12V you could maybe use a PC power supply. Those usually have a high output for 12V.
Yesss!! If It can run a big GPU at 12v (3s lipo) It can also run a powerful Air Pusher!
yes the cheapest way to get a high amp around 12v psu is to buy a pc power supply.
there's just 12v supplies for 3d printers and the alike where you can adjust it up and down couple of volts but they tend to get expensive too at higher than say 200 watts.
you all know that we aren't talking about a few 100W but more like 100-200A at 12V if he uses a good rc motor. pc powersupply can't ouput nearly as much as it is needed on one connector even if it could theoretically give that much based on the W. there is a reason why we connect that many split cables to the powersupply and not just 2 like in a car.
@@dovos8572 you can solder the outputs and use more than 1 conector.
@@felixorjales ... how to burn everything down. it is way too much work and pc voltage isn't as easy as soldering it together without destroying things.
Next up, “I 3d printed a 454 to run my supercharger fan”
You may be the first person to ever install a "Moon tune" on a computer. I love it!!!!!!!
6:18 funny you said that, the rpm you got it up to is around the rev limit on my altima with the 3.5, I was thinking the same thing
You could just use a big PC power supply. Their 12V rail usually can push the power that the whole power supply is rated for.
If the power supply splits it's current rating across multiple 12V rails, you can just hook up all the 12V outputs in parallel.
A 1000W PSU should be able to provide about 80A, for example.
You can match that to the rating of your ESC.
Also, to reduce the necessary power rating, you can slowly ease into the top speed (like you already did) to reduce peak load. Increasing RPM probably draws more current than holding it.
Just take a car battery or a smaller one from a motorcycle! These Motor Controllers usually work with anything from 6 to 13 Volts. Fully charged 12V-Lead-Acid-Batteries make 13.2V and about 12.5V when you draw a constant current with around 10% of der capacity. Anything above 10Ah schould have ample juice for hours of testing. 10Ah is super cheap and you schould be able to charge it with your Lipo-charger, since there are 13V batteries for RC-Cars)
Also, I suggest using a Planetary Gearset (they're stronger by design), using the Traxxis-Gear at the centre and cutting the Rotor-RPM at least in half. Since it's a high-rpm motor, It'll run more efficent and could even get the effective Rotor-speed up, since there'll be less stress on the mortor and inverter.
Love your Content! It's always fun to watch.
Good choice on the rc motor 👌
Even greater than the first one. Keep going.... 👍
If you want a cheap stable power supply that will give you all the amps you want you might try a couple car or truck batteries. Deep cycle would be best for this but junkyards often have cheap working batteries of mixed types. You can mix a large 6 volt battery with a 12 volt car or truck battery to get 16-18 (depending on health) volts if that's what you need. The biggest downside is it's not really adjustable, you will always go up or down in 6 volt increments (less if you bypass cells inside the battery but well... sulfuric acid).
I have also had great luck combining $30 lawn tractor batteries with an ancient used "buzz box" transformer style 12/24 volt charger/jumpstarter. The lawn tractor batteries deal with inrush current well and help the stability while the "buzz box" gives you some decent sustained output.
Omg dude the sound it makes @2:28 had me cry laughing. YEEEEAAAAEEEE
maybe forget toy controllers, get a motor controller and battery from a scooter or bike. they'll surely have no issue with that amount of work. also, those gears need a second bearing (maybe just the non-motor side, the motor is the second bearing on the drive side so keep an eye on that bearing) as there'll be a force side loading the single bearing as the gear ride out away from each other (this is probably what broke your belts and couplings). some PTFE/lithium/wax lube on the gears will cost some power but will probably let you spin it faster if you have the power to spare (it may take up some lash in the gear mesh too)...
If you've got a 240V connection nearby, grab a server supply. The DPS-1200 from HP should be pretty cheap, and there are breakout boards available for startup. I've got 2 S12L7 Kicker speakers powered by an Orion 8004 in my surround sound in the house; being powered currently by a DPS-750. 75% volume peaks the thing at around 1.1kW. These are 12VDC supplies, that can be adjusted a tiny bit, some up to 15VDC, but they have the current capability. For the startup current, you will still want a battery/ large capacitor. I'm using 2 UPS lead acid batteries as peak buffers/ backup (the 750 shuts itself off around 825W). I don't know the voltage of your ESC, but the battery looks to be a 4S (3.7x4=14.8 nominal). You might even snag 2 of the smaller server power supplies and tandem them (the RC guys do this alot). There's a number of forums online detailing setting up these cheap used server units.
When you test this, you could put the radiator on either (or both!) sides, because that type of "blower" will pull just as well as it pushes unlike a fan. They will draw a massive vacuum in a sealed chamber.
I worked at a place doing electron beam welding and we used giant Roots blowers to draw down the air for a rough vacuumed and they would get us down like 80% of the way before we had to change over to the oil diffusion pump. I think that got us into about 30 ish tor (0.04% atm)(all our welding was in high vaccume, so like... 30 micropascals)
when i say a large Roots blower, the pipe was 10". i could fit my head in the screws. It would hold that .04% atm all night, because we'd leave them running to keep the chambers dry.
would be interesting to see how airflow is affected from drawing air with the scoop pointed up versus the scoop pointed horizontally.
Should really make a lil gear box and put a bit of grease of some sort in it and that should greatly help with heat and wear on the gears, maybe reduce friction and thus increase performance but depending on the amount used may introduce a hydraulic pressure of sorts.
The blower designs are SOOO old too and they are just so strong and durable. My blower on my old Mustang is from 1990-91(area) and is STILL working to this day. And it makes close to 500whp now!
I do long range autonomous FPV with fixed-wing planes. Your best bet is going to be to get a low KV motor and run it off of 6S. It's going to always have the torque but keep amperage low.
As strange as it seems the people who are flying huge MFD planes for 2 hours flight time are using 6S
Also I work at a high temp FDM manufacturing company so the next part that breaks, just send me the file and I'll print it for you in PEEK.
And finally if you have any machines that are capable of printing nylon, a natural nylon will be the ideal material for high wear components as nylon is "self lubricating"
MORE! MOAR! Love it!
Glad I stumbled upon this gem
I want to see a twin screw version of this similar in design to a Whipple or Lysholm supercharger to see if they really are more efficient at moving air than the twin lobe design. Keep up the awesome videos.
Can you use main power? Some projects I have been wanting to use RC motors but using power adapters. Any tips on how?
There's a really cheap Lipo battery I have from "Goldbat" for 25$ USD I bought from Amazon, it might sound sketchy but I've had it for more than half a year now and I had no problems with it whatsoever.
There are many specifications too, you can do 2 or 3 cell or above and I have a 50c 5200 mAh battery from them, maybe lt would be a more suitable battery for the project very soon, but that is your choice!
Anyway this was a great video and that is a really cool looking Traxxas Rustler you got there! Thanks!👍
Amazing video!! I love it.
That's awesome, I'm glad you continued testing. Get better battery or power supply and let's se what it can do!
I look forward to seeing this again in its next video. Maybe put a big grungy 3 in the thumbnail so people don’t think they watched it already at a glance. (I almost passed on it)
A collab with a machinist on this one would be dope; Once you get it tuned to perfection.
Its final home in a rig would be with a “defcon 5” emergency cooling switch.
In dont know how & i suspect this is a phish.
Hello, I see potential in this experiment, since you have such a powerful engine, I'm curious what would happen if you installed the rest of these fans on it, maybe you would have to create a new top 10 list, great content cheers.
next fan showdown season should use the mamba, might make all those jet compressor style fans really shine
I didn't even make it past 2:27 before dying of laughter.... Ah man... SUBSCRIBED!!!!!
need to fix the links in the description. inserts and motor have the same Amazon link. Love all the work you're doing. keep it up.
3:01 sounds like a JDM tuned going full on Neutral and spitting flames
Try redesigning the rotors to have a slot on the tip for adding something like a rubber or silicone strip so you can get the tolerances closer and build more pressure!
I would like to see you put Teflon vanes on the screws to really maximize the air flow. Twisted screws and helical gears would be a sweet addition also