== 🕐 Time Stamps - Cut to the action 🕕 == 00:00 - Connections in a lighting circuit explained for the 3 plate method 00:50 - Metal consumer unit and 6 amp MCB 01:41 - Connections inside my consumer unit 02:54 - Connections in my first lighting point explained 04:37 - Connections in my first light switch explained 05:06 - Continuing on the 3 plate method to other room 06:36 - Connections at the end point of our lighting circuit explained 07:43 - Connections in a one way lighting switch explained when twin and CPC (twin and earth) cables is used instead of with brown and CPC
You are an amazing instructor/ teacher. I've learned so much and completed some amazing jobs that would have cost me a fortune. Thank you so much for sharing your video's. Your students will be blessed to have you teach them.
Thanks for the video it may have answered my lighting problem, I have a light that has stopped working (bulb ok not tripping), but also the light in the hallway that are on the same circuit. I am guessing form your video that the rose could be the issue as the power is not then getting to the next rose in the circuit, so possible become loose.
Another well structured and well presented video. I’m not an electrician by trade but find these videos very useful for understanding the house wiring.
Wow. I'm currently studying my electrical at level 1 and this is really helpful as it gains my knowledge and understanding in this trade, really awesome video and well explained. Thank you 👍
What should I do if I need more light with independent switch? As there is 1 rose in the room fit with the light. There are 3 cables in the rose loop in loop out and switch and there is no empty terminal in the rose
My house is wired in this way. I'm looking to add a light on a switch in my loft. Do I need to get into a live cable to an existing switch, add a junction box and then run a new cable to the switch and from the switch to the ceiling rose?
Have you ever heard of the term "Travelling switches" used in controlling lighting of long corridors (in hospitals) . I recall my tutor mentioning them, however that's a few years ago now. It involves progressive switching e.g. switch one turns on the first fluorescent light, switch two turns off the first fluorescent light and turns on the second and so and and so forth. I have forgotten how this arrangement would be wired and which switches would be used. Any ideas or do you have a video ?
If using twin brown and not line and switched line, how would you know what brown you’re putting into the feed and the one to the com in the switch. As you could put the one of the browns into line feed in the ceiling rose and the same brown into l1 in the switch.
It’s doesn’t matter the only thing that will happen in the switch will be upside down and need turning around. This will be picked up during the continuity of cpc and polarity test. Thanks for commenting. Gaz 🦾.
No provision for a neutral at the switch (which a lot of smart switches need). Presumably a four way cable could be used with suitable coloured sleeving, but then the rose block doesn't have provision for four neutral connections. I don't know if any are available.
Lighting Circuit 2 Plate Method Taking the Feed to the Switch and Connecting a 1 Way Switch & Light th-cam.com/video/1G4fW2DeqPA/w-d-xo.html May help 👆🏻. Not all smart switches now need a neutral... Massive thanks for commenting and watching. Gaz 🦾.
@@GSHElectrical Yes, I know about the two place method of course, but my point was about doing it via a three plate method. The only difference is a 4 core vs 3 core for the switch.
Not an electrician but i'm just wondering, in the UK why don't we take both L&N down to the switch and back up like some other countries? Is this just down to saving on cable (like why we use ring circuits) or is there actually another reason?
Thanks for posting video, quite helpful. I'm trying to pick up some electrical knowledge as I work in the building trade (carpentry, decorating, plastering) but its not easy. Whenever I read books they launch into protons, neutrons and electrons and doing the maths of working out resistance on a parallel circuit, all seems a long way from deciphering the spaghetti of a 2 way switch with 3 different colour codes and a new light fitting that requires an earth, if I'm honest it drives me up the bloody wall. Electricians don't seem to help as they seem to be a law unto themselves, I was recently working in a bathroom, removing a light fitting so I switched of the lighting circuit fuse only to have my screw driver explode on me because the light had been wired of the ring main. Admittedly I should have double checked if it were live but its a bit like having to look left and right when pulling out into a one way street, you don't expect some twat to be driving up it the wrong way. If I sound like I'm having a bit of a dig at electricians, I am , stick to the rules and please sweep up all your crap after working on site as you are notorious for leaving it behind for everybody else to sweep up, ditch the prima donna syndrome. Anyway, Ive gone off on a rant, appreciate the video, thanks
There's the difference between 'working in the building trade' and being a qualified electrician. The electrician would have tested the circuit even after pulling the fuse. Many amateurs never get the opportunity to learn from not 'double checking'. Consider yourself very fortunate. A couple of other observations; you can't be sure that it was an electrician that wired the light to the ring main (which is fine if a fused spur is installed), and it seems a tad cheeky to be telling electricians to stick to the rules when you haven't a clue what you're doing.
When checking wiring don't always assume that brown is live,as shown blue can also be conducting 240 volts and some lazy electricians don't bother brown sleeving or taping it.
@@duncanmacleod7283 I can take a punch on chin, is fine , you raise a good point , I don't actually know for sure it was electrician, wouldn't exactly say I don't have a clue, that is a bit strong. When I say stick to the rules I mean it in a broad sense, too much red tape is restrictive but we are quite lucky in this country having such a strong electrical body that is there to help people and uphold standards, if the same had been applied to cladding then maybe there wouldn't have been a cladding crisis. As for electricians coming on site for a few hours and leaving all their crap for someone else to clear up, that is just damn right cheeky and arrogant, is it beneath them to be responsible for their own mess and is disrespectful to other trades like decorators and plasterer's that need the place clean and tidy.
Somethimg I've always wanted to ask: Since EVERYTHING (except the protective cable) behind a switch can become a switched line at some point, and every "competent person" understands this as a fact, why is the brown sleeving required at the switch end? I understand why we identify it in the lamp assembly, but surely identification behind the switch is overkill? I cannot think of an occasion when all cables except the epc wouldn't become a switched line behind a switch. Thanks!
Hi. If a twin and CPC cables was taken to a switch using blue as switching line and not neutral as it’s colour indicates wouldn’t be misleading if it wasn’t over sleeved in brown? What if a switch had a combination of feeds in and out and switch drops using blue as switching lines and not neutral again the sleeving would indicate the conductors. Thanks for the question GSH Electrical.
I love the videos but this one is very hard to understand due to it all being wired already. It is hard to see where each wire is coming from. Thanks for posting the videos I am learning and need simple videos with diagrams or actualy doing the job in front of us
Would also be good to show how led downlights are installed & how you fully test them ie R1+R2 & Insulation Resistance testing either at 250v dc or at 500v dc with Line & Neautral connected together.
+Michael Woodward Hi. I have a contact at Collingwood lighting and they want to do some stuff on their LED lighting so look out for that one in the future. The tests on lighting circuits with LED downlights is the same as any lighting circuit. You do need to remember however not to connect either the switching line or neutral at the final connection to each downlight during the second fix. By not making this connection to the LED fitting I normal don't connect the neutral on the fitting then you can carry out your insulation resistance L/N L/E and N/E with no risk to the downlights having 500 volt passed through them. Hope this helps GSH Electrical
+Michael Woodward Part 1 Answer... Hi. I have a contact at Collingwood lighting and they want to do some stuff on their LED lighting so look out for that one in the future. The tests on lighting circuits with LED downlights is the same as any lighting circuit. You do need to remember however not to connect either the switching line or neutral at the final connection to each downlight during the second fix...
+Michael Woodward Part 2 By not making this connection to the LED fitting I normal don't connect the neutral on the fitting then you can carry out your insulation resistance L/N L/E and N/E with no risk to the downlights having 500 volt passed through them. Hope this helps GSH Electrical
Hi. In this job my learners use twin brown and cpc at lighting points 1 and 2 and the final switch drop twin and cpc so the blue conductor is sleeved brown as it’s the switching line conductor. Thanks Gaz
Ok Gaz, question, to fill in a ignorance gap. You have in this vid, 1 consumer unit. And, 3 switches. And, 3 lamps with 3 batons. Each baton has 3 brass blocks in it. What therefore, does the term, "3 plate" refer to please?
== 🕐 Time Stamps - Cut to the action 🕕 ==
00:00 - Connections in a lighting circuit explained for the 3 plate method
00:50 - Metal consumer unit and 6 amp MCB
01:41 - Connections inside my consumer unit
02:54 - Connections in my first lighting point explained
04:37 - Connections in my first light switch explained
05:06 - Continuing on the 3 plate method to other room
06:36 - Connections at the end point of our lighting circuit explained
07:43 - Connections in a one way lighting switch explained when twin and CPC (twin and earth) cables is used instead of with brown and CPC
My instructor tried to explain this using drawings, this explained it much better
You are an amazing instructor/ teacher. I've learned so much and completed some amazing jobs that would have cost me a fortune.
Thank you so much for sharing your video's.
Your students will be blessed to have you teach them.
Thanks 👍🏻
Many thanks, very clear and helpful
Thanks for the video it may have answered my lighting problem, I have a light that has stopped working (bulb ok not tripping), but also the light in the hallway that are on the same circuit. I am guessing form your video that the rose could be the issue as the power is not then getting to the next rose in the circuit, so possible become loose.
Another well structured and well presented video. I’m not an electrician by trade but find these videos very useful for understanding the house wiring.
Thanks 👍
Very helpful, absolutely fantastic. Thank you very much for your efforts.
Thanks 👍🏻
very nicely explained, legend
Thankyou very much so well explained and presented.
Thanks 👍🏻
What a great video thank you really enjoyed it and fixes my lights
👍🏻
Wow. I'm currently studying my electrical at level 1 and this is really helpful as it gains my knowledge and understanding in this trade, really awesome video and well explained. Thank you 👍
Hi. Good luck with your studies 👍 thanks for commenting and watching Gaz 🙌
Are you qualified now ?
@@jimmyboimazarti1234 going into my 3rd year this September.
@@jkw6487 nice mate well done! I’m just starting to study for my level 1 I really want to be a sparky
Very well explained. Great job.
Thanks 👍
What should I do if I need more light with independent switch? As there is 1 rose in the room fit with the light. There are 3 cables in the rose loop in loop out and switch and there is no empty terminal in the rose
My house is wired in this way. I'm looking to add a light on a switch in my loft. Do I need to get into a live cable to an existing switch, add a junction box and then run a new cable to the switch and from the switch to the ceiling rose?
Have you ever heard of the term "Travelling switches" used in controlling lighting of long corridors (in hospitals) . I recall my tutor mentioning them, however that's a few years ago now. It involves progressive switching e.g. switch one turns on the first fluorescent light, switch two turns off the first fluorescent light and turns on the second and so and and so forth. I have forgotten how this arrangement would be wired and which switches would be used. Any ideas or do you have a video ?
That sounds weird, how would you walk backwards? Eg, from switch 3 to switch 2?
What do you do if bedrooms number two needed 2 or 3 lights controlled from the same switch?
Wiring Diagram Using a 2 Gang Switch Converting it to 2 Way Switching Using 3 Plate Wiring Method
th-cam.com/video/CyQxiX9XX_0/w-d-xo.html
@@GSHElectrical ❤️
Another great video
Brilliant thanks.👍
Thanks
If using twin brown and not line and switched line, how would you know what brown you’re putting into the feed and the one to the com in the switch. As you could put the one of the browns into line feed in the ceiling rose and the same brown into l1 in the switch.
It’s doesn’t matter the only thing that will happen in the switch will be upside down and need turning around. This will be picked up during the continuity of cpc and polarity test. Thanks for commenting. Gaz 🦾.
@@GSHElectrical I now understand👍 thanks for the quick reply
Your just ace !!
Would you please explain how we put different switches for multiple lights please... way you explain excellent...in a same room like kitchen..
What about if you have spot lights in your rooms?
Hi my ceiling rose has 4 cables in the loop in why is this ?
It maybe a feed off to something like an extension or loft light 👍🏻 (it’s not an issue)
No provision for a neutral at the switch (which a lot of smart switches need). Presumably a four way cable could be used with suitable coloured sleeving, but then the rose block doesn't have provision for four neutral connections. I don't know if any are available.
Lighting Circuit 2 Plate Method Taking the Feed to the Switch and Connecting a 1 Way Switch & Light th-cam.com/video/1G4fW2DeqPA/w-d-xo.html
May help 👆🏻.
Not all smart switches now need a neutral...
Massive thanks for commenting and watching. Gaz 🦾.
@@GSHElectrical Yes, I know about the two place method of course, but my point was about doing it via a three plate method. The only difference is a 4 core vs 3 core for the switch.
Not an electrician but i'm just wondering, in the UK why don't we take both L&N down to the switch and back up like some other countries? Is this just down to saving on cable (like why we use ring circuits) or is there actually another reason?
Hi. Have a look in this playlist thanks Gaz
th-cam.com/play/PL2Ea5r9gxUUevU9gv8lizD53aYvwiJ5qr.html
8ve always preferred this method. Lately I'm doing more switch Terminated.
Thanks for posting video, quite helpful. I'm trying to pick up some electrical knowledge as I work in the building trade (carpentry, decorating, plastering) but its not easy. Whenever I read books they launch into protons, neutrons and electrons and doing the maths of working out resistance on a parallel circuit, all seems a long way from deciphering the spaghetti of a 2 way switch with 3 different colour codes and a new light fitting that requires an earth, if I'm honest it drives me up the bloody wall. Electricians don't seem to help as they seem to be a law unto themselves, I was recently working in a bathroom, removing a light fitting so I switched of the lighting circuit fuse only to have my screw driver explode on me because the light had been wired of the ring main. Admittedly I should have double checked if it were live but its a bit like having to look left and right when pulling out into a one way street, you don't expect some twat to be driving up it the wrong way. If I sound like I'm having a bit of a dig at electricians, I am , stick to the rules and please sweep up all your crap after working on site as you are notorious for leaving it behind for everybody else to sweep up, ditch the prima donna syndrome. Anyway, Ive gone off on a rant, appreciate the video, thanks
There's the difference between 'working in the building trade' and being a qualified electrician. The electrician would have tested the circuit even after pulling the fuse. Many amateurs never get the opportunity to learn from not 'double checking'. Consider yourself very fortunate. A couple of other observations; you can't be sure that it was an electrician that wired the light to the ring main (which is fine if a fused spur is installed), and it seems a tad cheeky to be telling electricians to stick to the rules when you haven't a clue what you're doing.
When checking wiring don't always assume that brown is live,as shown blue can also be conducting 240 volts and some lazy electricians don't bother brown sleeving or taping it.
@@duncanmacleod7283 I can take a punch on chin, is fine , you raise a good point , I don't actually know for sure it was electrician, wouldn't exactly say I don't have a clue, that is a bit strong. When I say stick to the rules I mean it in a broad sense, too much red tape is restrictive but we are quite lucky in this country having such a strong electrical body that is there to help people and uphold standards, if the same had been applied to cladding then maybe there wouldn't have been a cladding crisis. As for electricians coming on site for a few hours and leaving all their crap for someone else to clear up, that is just damn right cheeky and arrogant, is it beneath them to be responsible for their own mess and is disrespectful to other trades like decorators and plasterer's that need the place clean and tidy.
Very very nice thanks sir
Somethimg I've always wanted to ask:
Since EVERYTHING (except the protective cable) behind a switch can become a switched line at some point, and every "competent person" understands this as a fact, why is the brown sleeving required at the switch end?
I understand why we identify it in the lamp assembly, but surely identification behind the switch is overkill? I cannot think of an occasion when all cables except the epc wouldn't become a switched line behind a switch.
Thanks!
Hi. If a twin and CPC cables was taken to a switch using blue as switching line and not neutral as it’s colour indicates wouldn’t be misleading if it wasn’t over sleeved in brown? What if a switch had a combination of feeds in and out and switch drops using blue as switching lines and not neutral again the sleeving would indicate the conductors. Thanks for the question GSH Electrical.
I love the videos but this one is very hard to understand due to it all being wired already.
It is hard to see where each wire is coming from.
Thanks for posting the videos I am learning and need simple videos with diagrams or actualy doing the job in front of us
Hi. Thanks for the kind words try this playlist Gaz
th-cam.com/play/PL2Ea5r9gxUUcToR4p1wN8QDZ2NR_z2gCh.html
Would also be good to show how led downlights are installed & how you fully test them ie R1+R2 & Insulation Resistance testing either at 250v dc or at 500v dc with Line & Neautral connected together.
+Michael Woodward
Hi. I have a contact at Collingwood lighting and they want to do some stuff on their LED lighting so look out for that one in the future. The tests on lighting circuits with LED downlights is the same as any lighting circuit. You do need to remember however not to connect either the switching line or neutral at the final connection to each downlight during the second fix. By not making this connection to the LED fitting I normal don't connect the neutral on the fitting then you can carry out your insulation resistance L/N L/E and N/E with no risk to the downlights having 500 volt passed through them. Hope this helps GSH Electrical
+Michael Woodward
Part 1 Answer...
Hi. I have a contact at Collingwood lighting and they want to do some stuff on their LED lighting so look out for that one in the future. The tests on lighting circuits with LED downlights is the same as any lighting circuit. You do need to remember however not to connect either the switching line or neutral at the final connection to each downlight during the second fix...
+Michael Woodward
Part 2
By not making this connection to the LED fitting I normal don't connect the neutral on the fitting then you can carry out your insulation resistance L/N L/E and N/E with no risk to the downlights having 500 volt passed through them. Hope this helps GSH Electrical
wouldnt the switch line returning from the light switch be blue with brown sleeving?
Hi. In this job my learners use twin brown and cpc at lighting points 1 and 2 and the final switch drop twin and cpc so the blue conductor is sleeved brown as it’s the switching line conductor. Thanks Gaz
Ok Gaz, question, to fill in a ignorance gap. You have in this vid, 1 consumer unit. And, 3 switches. And, 3 lamps with 3 batons. Each baton has 3 brass blocks in it. What therefore, does the term, "3 plate" refer to please?
The connections in the light fitting 👍. Thanks for commenting. Gaz 😁
@@GSHElectrical thanks for getting back to me. And so quickly too. 😊
@@GSHElectrical If the terminals in the light fitting are referred to as 'blocks' then why isn't it called the "3 block method"?
is this method ever used through the switch box instead of the ceiling light
Hi. This method is used as shown. One feed for the lighting circuit from the dis-board to the final circuit. Thanks Gaz
I thought I had... what would you like to know thanks Gaz
Correct 👍
th-cam.com/play/PL2Ea5r9gxUUevU9gv8lizD53aYvwiJ5qr.html
Try the playlist above thanks Gaz
👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for watching
@@GSHElectrical 🥰🥰
Ok