This is awesome. I am doing my Electrical installations level 2 and this channel is my discovery of the year! Thank you so much and be sure that there are many people who really appreciate your hard work!
Gary, An interesting method of wiring those switches. Here in the states we do it a bit differently. The strappers or travelers as we call them go to what you refer to as L1 & L2 the permanent line would go to the common of one switch and the switched line would connect to the common of the remaining switch to the light fixture. Both work equally well, but like a lot of things between the states and the UK they are done differently. Keep up the great work, I enjoy learning new things . Merry Christmas.
Really wish your videos were around whilst I was doing my apprenticeship back in 2002....great teacher 👍🏼 even though I know this it was still interesting to watch
Really enjoy watching them, very informative and breaks down a lot of book work in simple video's. Always use them when studying the relevant sections.
Hi, Gaz, Sincerely I cannot thank you enough and how as a beginner, I got rid off my misconceptions about slewing on different colour cables of two way switching by watching this video. Keep up the good work😊👏🏻👍🏻
This is a great video, thanks for taking the time to make it clear and easy to follow. Quick question; is it much different when you're wiring in LED's which don't seem to have a traditional looking ceiling rose? Or would you just wire them with Wagos instead?
Taking the Feed (Supply) to the Light Switch the 2 Plate Method th-cam.com/play/PL2Ea5r9gxUUevU9gv8lizD53aYvwiJ5qr.html This playlist should help. Thanks for the great comment 🦾. Gaz
@@GSHElectrical awesome, thanks Gaz. I'd already seen one of those videos, but hadn't realised it was part of a series somehow! Thanks for the work you put in here mate.
Hi Gaz, as a electrician in Austraila, it is interesting to see how things are done in other countries. I take active,neutral and earth (cpc), to each light switch, then active to the common terminal at one switch, then join terminal one and two at each light switch using straps, then the second switch common terminal to the light. Two reasons for this way, most connections are done at the switch, on the floor and only one cable at the light fitting. In austraila the cpc has been insulated for about 25 years.
Thank you for this but I have a question I have 4 separate lights that all go to a 4 way switch then a 2 cor cable going from the 4 way switch to the consumer unit I want to add another 4 way switch is this just a case of running a 3 cor from switch to switch ? Does this all sound ok ?
Am I right in assuming I can’t take a feed for say a new wall light in the next room from the permanent live at switch 1? Is this because there is no permanent neutral at switch 1? I always have to come from the ceiling rose to install lights in other rooms?
How do you identify the live cable coming in from the CU, line in, into the ceiling rose? Example if someone has used another Com terminal within the trio.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge sir. Based on your video I propose to replace one of the two way switch with a smart switch. But I am confused as my comm is brown , L1 is Black and L2 is Grey. As you know for smart switch no neutral is required. Please can you help.
Hey there, do you have a video to explain 2 gang 2 way switching where all cables are going through a junction box in the loft to control the two separate lights?
If I connect two switches up in a light switch as per this video (cable and switches already installed), but it trips the breaker switch, what might be the cause (all the wires from the switch are hidden, but appears someone disconnected one of the switches... Moved in recently...)
Hi. Could you able to help me? I connected a 8 led batten lights in to a 4 gang switches (2 light per switch). The lights are sometimes dim and sometimes bright. Do you know what is a probable cause? I searched on the internet and it’s says loose wiring connections but I’m not sure. Thank you in advance.
Thanks so much. But I would like to help me, how can I control a number of light using the same switch and when each has its own switch to control it.(wiring diagram)
Wiring Diagram Lighting Circuit 2 Plate Method Taking the Feed to the Switch - 1 Way Switches& Light th-cam.com/video/A19SCa6FUss/w-d-xo.html It will be next 🦾
Hi Gary hope you're all well. Just wanted to give a big thank you, your videos have helped me with my course A LOT. One thing I am confused about and would like to ask you is; If I wanted to add an extra bulb to the existing circuit so both the lights turn on at the same time via the Two 1 Gang 2-Way switches, how would I do this. I have my practical exam coming up and would appreciate if you could help me out? Many thanks
Thanks for commenting this maybe helpful Wiring Diagram Adding a Light But WHY Use 3 Core and CPC Cable Connections Explained th-cam.com/video/fa3c88DxB5w/w-d-xo.html
Isn't this the old way of wiring? My AM2 the preferred method was to come from the CU to the 1st switch, thus introducing a neutral at the switch for those 'smart' switches. and you don't have a permanent live at the rose?
Just watching the '2 plate' now. I must say, I wish EVERY spark was as methodical and exacting as you guys are. I'm forever telling younger younger people to watch and subscribe to your vids. Keep up the great work Gaz and team.
Great video. Students prob find that style of drawing simplest to understand, but you could draw some sections of wires on the 45deg to avoid drawing wires through the middle of the switch plates. Do you ever cover doing a 2 way switch system using just T&E (but 2 cables) if no 3core plus earth avail? (Is that allowed in the regs)
They used to use 2 core and earth 40 years ago but you still need to run a third conductor as a single so effectively you have 3 core and earth but a single running alongside as the common.
I thought it was live to common on first switch L1 - L1, L2-L2 and then common on the second switch goes to ceiling rose. Is this wrong or just a differnet method?
I've always used that method too. It seems far simpler to follow. Advantage I see in Gary's method is you always have perm live on the same terminal in both switches. Bit easier to supply powered smart switches you could run a separate neutral, or use 3+E and 4+E drops with a neutral core instead. With the common live 1st switch method the live swaps between L1 and L2 at the second switch so would have to take into account.
That other format of wiring will require the S/L in the 1st switch plate, needing a wire-joint somewhat, with the COM(S/L) from the 2nd switch plate. Its also widely used in certain BS based countries... But the demo in the video is rather practical as all wires is terminated directly into the switch terminals themselves, thus eliminating extra wire joints behind the switches.
This is how we do it in Belgium, probably most of Europe. However I hope this discussion about two-way (+intermediate) switching can become a part of history in favor of (imho far superior) teleruptor systems.
Yes i can’t seem to get my head around it, why don’t you take your brown (line) to common??? Also can you do a video on 2 way lighting when the switches are fed would be a massive help please👍🏼
Great video, thank you! Question: What kind of wiring method would it be one where both 2-way switches have L1=Blue (no sleeve), L2=Red, Common=Yellow BUT there is always only a SINGLE wire going into each switch connector? On the ceiling rose only a black and red appear on the opposite blocks (clearly neutral and switched line). Can’t figure out how this was wired (but it works).
That is classic 40 years ago 2 way wiring . 3 core and earth did not seem to be around then. Those colours which you identify at one switch run to another switch which also operates the same light. Rhis is known as the strapper. The colours at the ceiling rose will come from one of those two switches as it will be the switch cable.
a bulb went off and now the entire circuit behind it stoped working (lights only), other lights around the house work fine. my main unit has only one switch for all the lights. none of the light switches have fuses. how can i troubleshoot this ?
Done this task 2-3 times in college and they have never explained why it works how you have explained haha, Starting to get worried I’m not being taught properly 🤦♂️
So if you have plastic switches with no earth connection I can use 3 core wire Instead of this 4 wire cable....colouring them appropriately of course...there all live anyway to the 2nd switch ..
With the common wire going back to the old colours we was always taught that red was common and blue and yellow was the straps..moving on to the new colours We use brown for common and black and gray for the straps. In practice I find about 50% of other electricians do the same and about 50% use the black for common. I have even seen the grey used for common.
You’re always gonna take at least *a* cable to the light point. Once you’re doing that it’ll often be easier to put as much as possible in the ceiling, because you are going to be wirk*ng in there *anyway*. And faffing in a hot roof space is still easier than chasing cables into walls.
Man you are my last hope.. Question: staircase two way sw. If DB is next to bottom switch and lamp next to top switch ..if 3 core cabe used ,can I use third core as Neutral..?thank you very much👍
Watching this from Belgium, I can see how it works but it makes no sense to me why it would be done this way (it also wouldn't work on two-way dimmers since those require permanent line on the COM). This is how we do it (leaving out earth in this description): Two-way 1: Cable to light: blue with a brown sleeve to COM as switched line, brown as permanent line to a Wago behind the switch. Cable to next switch: brown in that same wago (permanent line), black and grey in L1 and L2 (we call them what translates as "changeover wires"). Two-way 2: brown to COM, black and grey in L1 and L2. In this situation Two-way 2 can be replaced by a two-way dimmer since it has the permanent line already going to COM. By switching brown and brown-sleeved blue it is also possible to put a dimmer in place of the first switch instead. It is also becoming more and more standard in new installs here (apart from many people now installing teleruptor systems instead of two-way switching) to use quintuple wiring in 2.5mm² (green and yellow, blue, brown, grey, black) instead, which futureproofs the installation by bringing neutrals in the backboxes (we then use the black or grey wire as the switched line between the light and first switch). Bringing neutrals to the switches allows one of them to later be replaced by a wireless switch-receiver without the need for batteries or stored kinetic energy, and using 2.5mm² allows the lighting circuit to be converted later to a mixed circuit by simply installing a larger backbox and (an) extra socket(s) at any switch location. Sockets at switch-level in new installations are being fased out because of aesthetic reasons, but many people still like to add them in later to plug in the vacuum cleaner or a battery/phone charger without bending down to the low-level sockets.
Or just take a 3 core & cpc from each switch to light, common to loop in terminal in light, other common to sw line in light and join each set of strappers in a terminal block.
I thought grey was always common, and black and brown were used as the "brown" wires, as brown is brown, and black is old brown, not to say the black shouldn't be sheathed brown, but it just seemed sensible logic to me.
So strange looking at the 3 plate method, never ever use it. Always end up taking 2 core to a switch for live and neutral and 3 core between then 2 core back up. Just because of smart switches or other accessories that people quite often want to add later.
Thanks for the idea.? Do you mean loop between switches with a 3-core, then just 2-core from switch to light? Just thinking that a 3-core between switch and a light (ceiling rose) would allow the fitting an additional item that will need a permanent live eg.timed fan.
The common on a one way switch is permanent live but when a 2 way switch is used the common becomes secondary live and either L1 or L2 becomes the permanent live, Why is this, why wouldn't common be used as permanent live at all times even if it means just renaming the terminals? Seems odd to change the meaning.
Nice and simple to understand and best way of teaching anything. Many thanks.
This is awesome. I am doing my Electrical installations level 2 and this channel is my discovery of the year! Thank you so much and be sure that there are many people who really appreciate your hard work!
Simply the best tutorial from big Gaz. Saved this video to my saved list. Thanks GSH electrical.👍👍👍. Pleasure watching you guys and learning.
Thanks 🦾
Thanks very much Gary you are good instructor and put alot of effort into your videos they are enjoyable and a very good learning experience.
Gary,
An interesting method of wiring those switches. Here in the states we do it a bit differently. The strappers or travelers as we call them go to what you refer to as L1 & L2 the permanent line would go to the common of one switch and the switched line would connect to the common of the remaining switch to the light fixture. Both work equally well, but like a lot of things between the states and the UK they are done differently. Keep up the great work, I enjoy learning new things . Merry Christmas.
Thanks for the detailed comment and watching
Merry Christmas Gaz 🦾💕🦾
Used your way quite often in the uk depended on job used a lot on conduit jobs.
Brilliant video, very clear and helpful instructions
Thanks 👍🏻
Really wish your videos were around whilst I was doing my apprenticeship back in 2002....great teacher 👍🏼 even though I know this it was still interesting to watch
Thanks Jay for the great comment 🦾. Gaz
Thank you saved me a lot of hassle.
Thanks for commenting and watching 👍🏻
Really enjoy watching them, very informative and breaks down a lot of book work in simple video's. Always use them when studying the relevant sections.
Thanks for the great feedback Jason 👍🏻
Holle see?!!!!!!!
See ?!!!!
Thank you. I have been able to master this at my own pace :)
Thanks for commenting and watching 👍🏻
Great video, your videos have helped me understand the practical and theory behind it really well. Thanks 👍🏻
Thanks for the great comment and watching 👍🏻
Fantastic, clear and informed
Massive thanks 👍🏻
Hi, Gaz, Sincerely I cannot thank you enough and how as a beginner, I got rid off my misconceptions about slewing on different colour cables of two way switching by watching this video.
Keep up the good work😊👏🏻👍🏻
thank you sir, very clear easy to follow .
Excellent presentation 👍🏻 look forward to the next one.
Wiring Diagram 2 Way & Intermediate Switching of a Lighting Circuit 3 Plate Method Connections th-cam.com/video/KjCnXrMLvms/w-d-xo.html
Your videos are class mate 👍
Massive thanks 🦾
Good explanation :) Very cool circuit even though it is simple.
Very good video and the way you explained with colour marker and step by step is brilliant 👍top star
Cleared up some mysteries for me!
Glad it helped 👍
Explained very well thanks
Thanks 👍🏻
Really good video.. Great teaching 👍
Massive thanks for the support 👍🏻
Really well explained
Always a pleasure watching. I like the fact that you explain easy and simple enough for us to digest.
Thanks 😊
Massive thanks for the wonderful comment. Gaz 🦾
really good explanation, thank you
Thanks
Fabulous video 👍👍👍
Thanks again. Gaz 👍🏻
I cant wait to know half as much as you know...!!!
Have you a video of the same, but when the feed is to the switch?
Great video
Brilliant. I wish you were my teacher lol
Thanks for watching 👍🏻
Finally I get it, thx to your explanation
Thanks
This is a great video, thanks for taking the time to make it clear and easy to follow. Quick question; is it much different when you're wiring in LED's which don't seem to have a traditional looking ceiling rose? Or would you just wire them with Wagos instead?
Taking the Feed (Supply) to the Light Switch the 2 Plate Method th-cam.com/play/PL2Ea5r9gxUUevU9gv8lizD53aYvwiJ5qr.html
This playlist should help. Thanks for the great comment 🦾. Gaz
@@GSHElectrical awesome, thanks Gaz. I'd already seen one of those videos, but hadn't realised it was part of a series somehow! Thanks for the work you put in here mate.
Very informative thank you
Thanks for watching 👍🏻
Hi Gaz, as a electrician in Austraila, it is interesting to see how things are done in other countries. I take active,neutral and earth (cpc), to each light switch, then active to the common terminal at one switch, then join terminal one and two at each light switch using straps, then the second switch common terminal to the light. Two reasons for this way, most connections are done at the switch, on the floor and only one cable at the light fitting. In austraila the cpc has been insulated for about 25 years.
Taking the Feed (Supply) to the Light Switch the 2 Plate Method
th-cam.com/play/PL2Ea5r9gxUUevU9gv8lizD53aYvwiJ5qr.html
Like this?
Yes
Very clear, thanks.
Thanks for watching 👍🏻
Excellent video and well explained.
Thanks a lot. This really helped me :)
Thanks 👍
Thank you for this but I have a question I have 4 separate lights that all go to a 4 way switch then a 2 cor cable going from the 4 way switch to the consumer unit I want to add another 4 way switch is this just a case of running a 3 cor from switch to switch ? Does this all sound ok ?
Can I adapt this to control 3 separate rooms? So have a switching line on each switch? So like a 3gang 1 way switch, if that even makes any sense
Good job
Thanks
thanks great video
Am I right in assuming I can’t take a feed for say a new wall light in the next room from the permanent live at switch 1? Is this because there is no permanent neutral at switch 1? I always have to come from the ceiling rose to install lights in other rooms?
Amazing videos, how would this change using down lights? Without the loop?
You would need to put the connections into a joint box and wire from the to the downlights 👍🏻. Thanks for the support Gaz
Thanks mate u just got me through a test at college 😂😂
How do you identify the live cable coming in from the CU, line in, into the ceiling rose? Example if someone has used another Com terminal within the trio.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge sir. Based on your video I propose to replace one of the two way switch with a smart switch. But I am confused as my comm is brown , L1 is Black and L2 is Grey. As you know for smart switch no neutral is required. Please can you help.
Should you add a fused spur to a bathroom lighting circuit and fan before the isolator
Does it matter if the strappers go L1 to L1 & L2 to L2 rather than in your example?
Hey there, do you have a video to explain 2 gang 2 way switching where all cables are going through a junction box in the loft to control the two separate lights?
Have a look in this playlist 👍🏻
Wiring Diagrams for Lighting and Motor Circuits th-cam.com/play/PL2Ea5r9gxUUfm4SACOSOZigCeSxxC5xaO.html
It has 2 gang switches but no joint boxes 👍🏻
@@GSHElectrical thanks for the swift response.
Great instruction video. I am looking to change a pair of 2 gang 2 way light switches. Have you any wiring diagrams for this please?
Take a picture on your phone and replace like for like 👍
If I connect two switches up in a light switch as per this video (cable and switches already installed), but it trips the breaker switch, what might be the cause (all the wires from the switch are hidden, but appears someone disconnected one of the switches... Moved in recently...)
Holle see fixtures 🤞 🤞🤞
thanks you sir
Your welcome 👍
Thank you
Very good. Thank you.
Massive thanks for watching 👍🏻
Does it matter between switches if you go L1 to L2 with the strappers does it have to be L1 to L2 and L2 to L1 or can it be L1 to L1 etc
No 👍🏻
Is therr somewhere to download them sheets i would love to draw them out for practice
The link is in the description 👍🏻
☑️ Link below is to the images used in this series of videos on lighting wiring diagrams
1drv.ms/b/s!As2jEnZePpD0iXUBdgpj18aZMvY8?e=VLolVV
Why not use twin brown in this instance?
We do at Tresham College - however contractors and many other colleges do not hence the using of brown and blue 👍. Thanks for commenting Gaz
How would you add a smart switch to this ??
Hi. Could you able to help me? I connected a 8 led batten lights in to a 4 gang switches (2 light per switch). The lights are sometimes dim and sometimes bright. Do you know what is a probable cause? I searched on the internet and it’s says loose wiring connections but I’m not sure. Thank you in advance.
How comes for the 1way switch the permanent line goes into common but for 2way it either goes in l1 or l2 ?
Thanks so much. But I would like to help me, how can I control a number of light using the same switch and when each has its own switch to control it.(wiring diagram)
Really wish the wires could bend like that when I’m doing this😂
Me 2 🤦🏻♂️👍🏻
Any chance you could do a video on 2 way lighting when the switches are fed please please? 👍🏼
Wiring Diagram Lighting Circuit 2 Plate Method Taking the Feed to the Switch - 1 Way Switches& Light th-cam.com/video/A19SCa6FUss/w-d-xo.html
It will be next 🦾
Hi Gary hope you're all well. Just wanted to give a big thank you, your videos have helped me with my course A LOT. One thing I am confused about and would like to ask you is;
If I wanted to add an extra bulb to the existing circuit so both the lights turn on at the same time via the Two 1 Gang 2-Way switches, how would I do this. I have my practical exam coming up and would appreciate if you could help me out?
Many thanks
Thanks for commenting this maybe helpful
Wiring Diagram Adding a Light But WHY Use 3 Core and CPC Cable Connections Explained th-cam.com/video/fa3c88DxB5w/w-d-xo.html
If you want another light to be added you would have to put another T&E in the SW part of ceiling rose and connect to the nuetral and cpc.
I have a question, I keep getting told the new 18th edition regs say you should feed the light switch on lighting circuits. Is this true?
No but it’s often use see the link below. Thanks for commenting. Gaz
th-cam.com/video/1G4fW2DeqPA/w-d-xo.html
Isn't this the old way of wiring? My AM2 the preferred method was to come from the CU to the 1st switch, thus introducing a neutral at the switch for those 'smart' switches. and you don't have a permanent live at the rose?
Taking the Feed (Supply) to the Light Switch the 2 Plate Method th-cam.com/play/PL2Ea5r9gxUUevU9gv8lizD53aYvwiJ5qr.html
YES 🦾
Just watching the '2 plate' now. I must say, I wish EVERY spark was as methodical and exacting as you guys are. I'm forever telling younger younger people to watch and subscribe to your vids. Keep up the great work Gaz and team.
Great video. Students prob find that style of drawing simplest to understand, but you could draw some sections of wires on the 45deg to avoid drawing wires through the middle of the switch plates. Do you ever cover doing a 2 way switch system using just T&E (but 2 cables) if no 3core plus earth avail? (Is that allowed in the regs)
They used to use 2 core and earth 40 years ago but you still need to run a third conductor as a single so effectively you have 3 core and earth but a single running alongside as the common.
I thought it was live to common on first switch L1 - L1, L2-L2 and then common on the second switch goes to ceiling rose. Is this wrong or just a differnet method?
I've always used that method too. It seems far simpler to follow. Advantage I see in Gary's method is you always have perm live on the same terminal in both switches. Bit easier to supply powered smart switches you could run a separate neutral, or use 3+E and 4+E drops with a neutral core instead. With the common live 1st switch method the live swaps between L1 and L2 at the second switch so would have to take into account.
Thanks a lot
Gracias 🙏
Why not bring the Line to the common and connect the strappers to L1 & L2?
That other format of wiring will require the S/L in the 1st switch plate, needing a wire-joint somewhat, with the COM(S/L) from the 2nd switch plate. Its also widely used in certain BS based countries...
But the demo in the video is rather practical as all wires is terminated directly into the switch terminals themselves, thus eliminating extra wire joints behind the switches.
This is how we do it in Belgium, probably most of Europe.
However I hope this discussion about two-way (+intermediate) switching can become a part of history in favor of (imho far superior) teleruptor systems.
Yes i can’t seem to get my head around it, why don’t you take your brown (line) to common??? Also can you do a video on 2 way lighting when the switches are fed would be a massive help please👍🏼
Hello how you connect this
This days we can use wireless light switches which is easy to install and will save a lot of materials and time !!!
And what do I do if three wires are red and an earth wire
Great video, thank you!
Question: What kind of wiring method would it be one where both 2-way switches have L1=Blue (no sleeve), L2=Red, Common=Yellow BUT there is always only a SINGLE wire going into each switch connector?
On the ceiling rose only a black and red appear on the opposite blocks (clearly neutral and switched line).
Can’t figure out how this was wired (but it works).
That is classic 40 years ago 2 way wiring . 3 core and earth did not seem to be around then. Those colours which you identify at one switch run to another switch which also operates the same light. Rhis is known as the strapper. The colours at the ceiling rose will come from one of those two switches as it will be the switch cable.
Find it so much easier to feed every switch first with switch lines to light with 3 core between switches on 2 way
@Brian Gower crazy really hope to work out there in future
a bulb went off and now the entire circuit behind it stoped working (lights only), other lights around the house work fine. my main unit has only one switch for all the lights. none of the light switches have fuses. how can i troubleshoot this ?
Done this task 2-3 times in college and they have never explained why it works how you have explained haha, Starting to get worried I’m not being taught properly 🤦♂️
Thanks for watching and commenting good luck with your training 👍🏻 Gaz
So if you have plastic switches with no earth connection I can use 3 core wire Instead of this 4 wire cable....colouring them appropriately of course...there all live anyway to the 2nd switch ..
With the common wire going back to the old colours we was always taught that red was common and blue and yellow was the straps..moving on to the new colours We use brown for common and black and gray for the straps. In practice I find about 50% of other electricians do the same and about 50% use the black for common. I have even seen the grey used for common.
In the Netherlands, we use black for all switched lines - so both strappers and the common and the wire to the light fitting ould be black.
I do wish you would teach taking the service to the switch and not the ceiling rose, then you aren't phaffing about in hot roof spaces.
You’re always gonna take at least *a* cable to the light point. Once you’re doing that it’ll often be easier to put as much as possible in the ceiling, because you are going to be wirk*ng in there *anyway*. And faffing in a hot roof space is still easier than chasing cables into walls.
Man you are my last hope..
Question: staircase two way sw.
If DB is next to bottom switch and lamp next to top switch ..if 3 core cabe used ,can I use third core as Neutral..?thank you very much👍
Watching this from Belgium, I can see how it works but it makes no sense to me why it would be done this way (it also wouldn't work on two-way dimmers since those require permanent line on the COM).
This is how we do it (leaving out earth in this description):
Two-way 1: Cable to light: blue with a brown sleeve to COM as switched line, brown as permanent line to a Wago behind the switch. Cable to next switch: brown in that same wago (permanent line), black and grey in L1 and L2 (we call them what translates as "changeover wires").
Two-way 2: brown to COM, black and grey in L1 and L2.
In this situation Two-way 2 can be replaced by a two-way dimmer since it has the permanent line already going to COM. By switching brown and brown-sleeved blue it is also possible to put a dimmer in place of the first switch instead.
It is also becoming more and more standard in new installs here (apart from many people now installing teleruptor systems instead of two-way switching) to use quintuple wiring in 2.5mm² (green and yellow, blue, brown, grey, black) instead, which futureproofs the installation by bringing neutrals in the backboxes (we then use the black or grey wire as the switched line between the light and first switch). Bringing neutrals to the switches allows one of them to later be replaced by a wireless switch-receiver without the need for batteries or stored kinetic energy, and using 2.5mm² allows the lighting circuit to be converted later to a mixed circuit by simply installing a larger backbox and (an) extra socket(s) at any switch location. Sockets at switch-level in new installations are being fased out because of aesthetic reasons, but many people still like to add them in later to plug in the vacuum cleaner or a battery/phone charger without bending down to the low-level sockets.
Or just take a 3 core & cpc from each switch to light, common to loop in terminal in light, other common to sw line in light and join each set of strappers in a terminal block.
I thought grey was always common, and black and brown were used as the "brown" wires, as brown is brown, and black is old brown, not to say the black shouldn't be sheathed brown, but it just seemed sensible logic to me.
Black is the old blue not the old brown.
@@memylastname9972 you right, red was the old brown, what was I thinking.
you should be a teacher only joking nice video
I ⚠️ it's easy to remember that the strappers is a three core + the CPC cable that goes in between the two two-way switches. 😳
So strange looking at the 3 plate method, never ever use it. Always end up taking 2 core to a switch for live and neutral and 3 core between then 2 core back up. Just because of smart switches or other accessories that people quite often want to add later.
Thanks for the idea.? Do you mean loop between switches with a 3-core, then just 2-core from switch to light? Just thinking that a 3-core between switch and a light (ceiling rose) would allow the fitting an additional item that will need a permanent live eg.timed fan.
The common on a one way switch is permanent live but when a 2 way switch is used the common becomes secondary live and either L1 or L2 becomes the permanent live, Why is this, why wouldn't common be used as permanent live at all times even if it means just renaming the terminals? Seems odd to change the meaning.
I guess intermediates next?
Same circuit, just with an intermediate switch on the brown and grey conductors.
An intermediate switch just goes from === to =x= when switched.
So what do you do with the common!
I do know!
@@stevensmith4449 It just gets crimped through.
Yes it is. Thanks for watching 🦾
Wiring Diagram 2 Way & Intermediate Switching of a Lighting Circuit 3 Plate Method Connections th-cam.com/video/KjCnXrMLvms/w-d-xo.html
Also why don’t you just take the brown (line) to the common keeps it much more simple why do you need a permanent at a switching terminal (L1)??!!????
Brown to brown black to common 🦾
Way you no showing L1 and L2
Nice and simple to understand and best way of teaching anything. Many thanks.
Thanks for the positive feedback