Nicely explained. I did notice that as he went on, he became more whimsical in his presentation. For home coaters who simply can’t afford better guns and I assume do less critical work, their results will usually be fine on smaller parts. There are decent guns available for $350 to $600 which don’t rely on gravity and have a good voltage range to 50 k or even 100k. But they have no control over amperage. For small parts of up to about 12” x 18” I bought a Redline EZ50 gun and it works quite well.
Can you over cure a part, that is holding it at the correct temperature for too long and if so what negative effects does it do aside from costing you extra time and heating energy?
Yes, you can. There are some negative impacts that can occur from over curing, most common problems are discoloration and a degradation of durability. Keep in mind that you are not likely to experience either of these from an extra 5 or 10 minutes, rather a much longer over cure .
Poor ground is a very common issue. The new fab shop I'm working at had me working in powder coating and their setup uses racks that are just CAKED. Sometimes, the powder will not stick, and I'm being told it's my technique.
You're right, cleaning racks, grinding off the old powder should be a routine to help get a ground. Even if you have an earth ground to the rack, the racking surface must be free of insulators.
I'm not sure if you mean trying to cure the powder at 150-180 or if you mean coating the parts while they are hot. So I'll answer both. In regards to coating parts hot, we would caution you. It's very easy to run into problems when you coat a hot surface where the powder is melting on contact and you can't undo it. We generally treat it as a last resort. If you're asking about oven temperatures for curing, you must follow the cure schedule for powder you are spraying(typically between 375 and 400 F) curing is a critical step and you will not get the results or durability if you don't cure correctly. Hope that helps.
Thanks for the info it was very informative. I bought the Eastwood PCS-150 Powder Coating System | Innovative Single Voltage what is your opinion on this product? Please advise
With no personal experience with the unit I don't have enough information to offer any specific information to give regarding that specific setup, however there are a few pitfalls with single voltage guns. For example, one potential problem is that some powders like metallics will spray better with some fine tuning of the voltage.
I had a question as to what causes the bubbles that are lighter in color on the finish. As to my understanding it was maybe some overspray? And how do I prevent overspray?
Tiny bubbles in the finish could be the result of a few things, possibly contamination in the powder or on the substrate. If it was overspray, it will definitely have a fine texture to it. Depending on your situation and what your goals were with the project. Masking and or wiping the surfaces completely are necessary to prevent or remove unwanted powder from a surface. Hope that helps
Thanks a lot.. very valuable. you mentioned that cracks can be happened if the object was under cured. In my case, I do powder coat to 2 layers which are 1st, Primer then gloss powder. so when doing double coat, is it ok to go half cure the primer layer then full cure with 2nd powder coat which is gloss powder? please explain..
Yeah you are on the right track. Flash cure the primer and then add your top coat. The "crazing" or cracks that can occur with partial curing seem to specifically happen with transparent powders. If you are spraying a solid tone as your topcoat, you would likely not notice any crazing, but of course you certainly want a full cure no matter what.
Do you need to prep matte wheels to change the color? Since matte has a rough surface already, should I sand blast? Or can I just powder coat a clear/new color on top of it?
Ideally you want to start with bare metal that has a blast profile, but you can abrade the old powder with red scotch brite, discharge and put new powder on top....if need be.
I need a help if you could please advise me The oven broke down at 160 degree The powder on the materials has the color but it is easy to get scratched Now the oven is fixed What do i do? 1) Scratch the powder and recoat the object and use the oven again 2) just turn on the oven and before it reaches 200 degrees i enter those objects for 12 min as the powder manufacturers say ? What would happen if i do this?
In general, you'll want to flash each layer before adding the next one, and follow the cure schedule for the last powder used. Depending on what process you want to follow (masking, vacuum etc.) there will be additional steps involved. We do have other videos on multi-step powder coating on our channel. They may be helpful for you.
We don't use Wagner systems, so unfortunately I can't offer you any worthwhile advice other than to get ahold of your rep or customer service at Wagner. A standard setting could be useful when getting started but typically you'll be changing the settings based upon the powder you happen to be spraying. If the mil thickness is building too slowly you could start by addressing your voltage settings.
Question,I've been. At it for a couple years now and have actually worked threw all these already by trial an error😂. But I'm curious..can you over cure? As in bake to long? I haven't seem to run into that problem but I'd like to know..thanks for the vid, love your products.(just did a lowrider bike in corky pink...ah man what a color)
Yes, you can over-cure, but it takes awhile for most powders. Sometimes this can lead to discoloration, among other things, but generally speaking a little overcuring (like 5 minutes or so) will not produce adverse affects. Better to over cure by a little than to under-cure.
@@PrismaticPowders can under cure causes the clear to become tacky when come in contact with brake cleaner? Also I notice the shine goes dull when I leave the parts in the oven
@@kariymchristopher6986Fully cured powder shouldn't get "tacky" with brake cleaner. Under-curing may be a possibility for the cause. We've seen some parts get a bit hazy from sitting around, but generally the haze wipes off.
We have automatic line with conveyor, but often we have to manually powder coat complex details. So the conveyor is often paused. When we have details in owen same time for 60 minutes, compared to 20 min, the white coat looks way more yellow. After 3 hours they get brown'ish.
I’ve found that a light bronze will become dark bronze of left in 10 minutes longer than normal. It looks very nice though and doesn’t seem to be damaged.
That's a tough one, is the diameter smaller than the tip of the gun? If so, you are unlikely to be able to get enough coating on the inside with any degree of confidence.
Just waited a long time and had a bunch of anxiety about having a high dollar item powder coated with Prismatic powder. Ordered the swatches, made my choice, the part finally got painted and came out TOTALLY the wrong color. Now I'm screwed with a HORRIBLE looking color. Had I known it takes wizardry and odds resembling the Powerball lottery to get the correct color................so frustrated, defeated, angry, displeased, disappointed.
We would really like to know what happened there and would like some more information from you. Would you please reach out to our tech support team. You can email or call, technicalsupport@prismaticpowders.com or 1-866-774-7628 .
Nicely explained. I did notice that as he went on, he became more whimsical in his presentation.
For home coaters who simply can’t afford better guns and I assume do less critical work, their results will usually be fine on smaller parts. There are decent guns available for $350 to $600 which don’t rely on gravity and have a good voltage range to 50 k or even 100k. But they have no control over amperage. For small parts of up to about 12” x 18” I bought a Redline EZ50 gun and it works quite well.
My Gema Optiflex Pro gun and prismaticpowders has save me from lots of these mentioned issues
I'm sure it has. Cheap equipment is a gateway problem to other problems.
1.25 playback speed!! Great video thanks!!
1.75 actually
That's great info there... presented in a calm and thorough way. Thanks!!😊
Can you over cure a part, that is holding it at the correct temperature for too long and if so what negative effects does it do aside from costing you extra time and heating energy?
Yes, you can. There are some negative impacts that can occur from over curing, most common problems are discoloration and a degradation of durability. Keep in mind that you are not likely to experience either of these from an extra 5 or 10 minutes, rather a much longer over cure .
Poor ground is a very common issue. The new fab shop I'm working at had me working in powder coating and their setup uses racks that are just CAKED. Sometimes, the powder will not stick, and I'm being told it's my technique.
You're right, cleaning racks, grinding off the old powder should be a routine to help get a ground. Even if you have an earth ground to the rack, the racking surface must be free of insulators.
Grind and run thru the muriatic acid wash and rinse, hit the dryoff oven. Paint, cure oven. ✨️
It's okay to powder coating if you cook the steel if its at 150 -180. Am pretty new at it.
I'm not sure if you mean trying to cure the powder at 150-180 or if you mean coating the parts while they are hot. So I'll answer both. In regards to coating parts hot, we would caution you. It's very easy to run into problems when you coat a hot surface where the powder is melting on contact and you can't undo it. We generally treat it as a last resort. If you're asking about oven temperatures for curing, you must follow the cure schedule for powder you are spraying(typically between 375 and 400 F) curing is a critical step and you will not get the results or durability if you don't cure correctly. Hope that helps.
I run 425° ovens and 6-8 FPM
Thanks for the info it was very informative.
I bought the Eastwood PCS-150 Powder Coating System | Innovative Single Voltage what is your opinion on this product? Please advise
With no personal experience with the unit I don't have enough information to offer any specific information to give regarding that specific setup, however there are a few pitfalls with single voltage guns. For example, one potential problem is that some powders like metallics will spray better with some fine tuning of the voltage.
What happens if the powder coating powder gets wet. Can it be dried and used again.
No
I had a question as to what causes the bubbles that are lighter in color on the finish. As to my understanding it was maybe some overspray? And how do I prevent overspray?
Tiny bubbles in the finish could be the result of a few things, possibly contamination in the powder or on the substrate. If it was overspray, it will definitely have a fine texture to it. Depending on your situation and what your goals were with the project. Masking and or wiping the surfaces completely are necessary to prevent or remove unwanted powder from a surface. Hope that helps
It's usually rusty material
Thanks a lot.. very valuable. you mentioned that cracks can be happened if the object was under cured. In my case, I do powder coat to 2 layers which are 1st, Primer then gloss powder. so when doing double coat, is it ok to go half cure the primer layer then full cure with 2nd powder coat which is gloss powder? please explain..
Yeah you are on the right track. Flash cure the primer and then add your top coat. The "crazing" or cracks that can occur with partial curing seem to specifically happen with transparent powders. If you are spraying a solid tone as your topcoat, you would likely not notice any crazing, but of course you certainly want a full cure no matter what.
@@PrismaticPowders I'm using a solid powder which is not transparent. So you are saying, Even solid powders also need a full cure before the top coat?
@@wickmovies95 call our tech department and they will be happy to address this more fully with you. 1-866-774-7628.
Do you need to prep matte wheels to change the color? Since matte has a rough surface already, should I sand blast? Or can I just powder coat a clear/new color on top of it?
Ideally you want to start with bare metal that has a blast profile, but you can abrade the old powder with red scotch brite, discharge and put new powder on top....if need be.
I need a help if you could please advise me
The oven broke down at 160 degree
The powder on the materials has the color but it is easy to get scratched
Now the oven is fixed
What do i do?
1) Scratch the powder and recoat the object and use the oven again
2) just turn on the oven and before it reaches 200 degrees i enter those objects for 12 min as the powder manufacturers say ? What would happen if i do this?
You can place the parts back in the oven to finish the curing cycle as long as they have not been contaminated or damaged while sitting.
how to do multiple colors in powder coating process
In general, you'll want to flash each layer before adding the next one, and follow the cure schedule for the last powder used. Depending on what process you want to follow (masking, vacuum etc.) there will be additional steps involved. We do have other videos on multi-step powder coating on our channel. They may be helpful for you.
Hello im using wagner and im having a problem when regarding the thickness. Can you give me a standard gun setting? Thank you
We don't use Wagner systems, so unfortunately I can't offer you any worthwhile advice other than to get ahold of your rep or customer service at Wagner. A standard setting could be useful when getting started but typically you'll be changing the settings based upon the powder you happen to be spraying. If the mil thickness is building too slowly you could start by addressing your voltage settings.
Isn't that 15 kilovolt to 25 kilovolt as in 15,000 to 25,000 volts?
Yes! you are correct, and good catch Eagle Ears.
Question,I've been. At it for a couple years now and have actually worked threw all these already by trial an error😂. But I'm curious..can you over cure? As in bake to long? I haven't seem to run into that problem but I'd like to know..thanks for the vid, love your products.(just did a lowrider bike in corky pink...ah man what a color)
Yes, you can over-cure, but it takes awhile for most powders. Sometimes this can lead to discoloration, among other things, but generally speaking a little overcuring (like 5 minutes or so) will not produce adverse affects. Better to over cure by a little than to under-cure.
@@PrismaticPowders can under cure causes the clear to become tacky when come in contact with brake cleaner? Also I notice the shine goes dull when I leave the parts in the oven
@@kariymchristopher6986Fully cured powder shouldn't get "tacky" with brake cleaner. Under-curing may be a possibility for the cause. We've seen some parts get a bit hazy from sitting around, but generally the haze wipes off.
We have automatic line with conveyor, but often we have to manually powder coat complex details. So the conveyor is often paused. When we have details in owen same time for 60 minutes, compared to 20 min, the white coat looks way more yellow. After 3 hours they get brown'ish.
I’ve found that a light bronze will become dark bronze of left in 10 minutes longer than normal. It looks very nice though and doesn’t seem to be damaged.
How to powder coat inside a small narrow pipe
That's a tough one, is the diameter smaller than the tip of the gun? If so, you are unlikely to be able to get enough coating on the inside with any degree of confidence.
Just waited a long time and had a bunch of anxiety about having a high dollar item powder coated with Prismatic powder. Ordered the swatches, made my choice, the part finally got painted and came out TOTALLY the wrong color. Now I'm screwed with a HORRIBLE looking color. Had I known it takes wizardry and odds resembling the Powerball lottery to get the correct color................so frustrated, defeated, angry, displeased, disappointed.
We would really like to know what happened there and would like some more information from you. Would you please reach out to our tech support team. You can email or call, technicalsupport@prismaticpowders.com or 1-866-774-7628 .
Hmmm, did you check the examples of that color before hand? I've been using their colors for a while now and it has been pretty on point so far...