We had a similar issue on the driver side. The bolt was seized onto the "weldnut" on the arm. Got it off w pentrating oil & cheater bar (impact wrench made it worse). The bolt is toast but the threads on the arm look good (I believe Honda is smart enough to use weaker steel on the bolt). The hardest part was that the bolt was oxidized to the strut bushing. We forward/reversed it adding oil & finally got it out. PLEASE NOTE: This vehicle is 21 years old & runs well (1st time removed rear struts) - this was a pain the the buttocks - but I can't complain. Thanks for the video - fun stuff.
@@TheInfoworks The bolt has actually snapped on mine Andy, I can see the bush moving on one side, but not the other. I'm not too bothered about it, the shock looks passed it best, so I'll carefully cut it out and replace the shock and bolt. And yes I'll subscribe, thanks for reminding me 👍
@@itsallfabrication Yes that bolt is a bad design, if there were shallow grooves in it to hold grease then maybe they wouldn't seize up so badly, cheers
Had the exact same problem with our CRV! I ended up having to get out the blue point wrench and cut off the shackle on the bottom of the strut assembly, then cut the bushing off the bolt! Was a nightmare - but I had a torch and didn't have a welder handy.
Nathan, it's a poor design on a brilliant car. I had to change this spring again and there was rust on the new bolt despite lashings of grease. The water is blasted up into this region, subscribed? cheers
Had to to grind and torch the right side out but on the left side I hammered a pickle fork in on the nut side and heated the nut cherry red and the bolt came right out. Not sure if I was lucky or if the pickle for actually worked.
Hi, it's a rubbish design but it sounds like you had some success. Even with lots of grease they still corrode. Best thing is to move them every few years just to make sure, cheers
@@TheInfoworks Thanks - that came 15 years too late - feel free to chuckle - ;,) The better design is to use an attachment point that is simply a stud - that way oxidation can't occur on the inner side. The nut is made of weaker steel - so if it strips you just cut it off.
Hi, when they're bad, they are really bad. I have cut then out with a thin disc, then replaced the bush and the bolt. Welding another narrower bolt to the remaining threaded end to extract it. Maybe the new bolt needs to be reduced when it goes through the bushing to reduce the corrosion, cheers
Great video Andy, but after you've cut the bolt and got the shock out, how do you remove the bolt stub stuck in the captive nut on the lower suspension arm? I have exactly the same problem and was going to grind off the nut and replace with a bolt and nut, but now I've seen the bolt I'm not so sure that's a good idea. Is the thread a readily available one, or a Honda Custom thread?
Paul, I just bought the right bolt for about £5 from Honda. Having heated up the captive thread we got the bolt moving but the bush let go. So we cut off the head and the bolt the ohet side of the bush. Once the shock was clear we welded a bolt to the remaining threaded stub and would it out. I bought a new bush on ebay (£10). Seem my other videos and Subscribed? Cheers
@@TheInfoworks I bought the bolt from my local dealer for £7.07 then went to a local but and bolt supply house who sold me 2 nuts (as they didn't have any nylock ones) and a couple of washers for £2. Used angle grinder on the head and stub. Took a while, and you have to be really careful of other brackets, but it's all good and rebuilt now.
@@TheInfoworks No I didn't; and I think I spoke too soon. Just rolling down the drive I noticed a rattle. It looks like the shock bush has given way. The rubber 'saddle' is about an inch above the metal bush. Is this fixable, or do I need to start the whole job again but with a new top?
Paul, I replaced the bottom bush. The whole shock unit needs to be removed. The bush is made up of 3 parts, the inner steel, the rubber, and an outer steel tube. It is all pressed into the bottom shock tubular mounting (eye). It's a bit of a game removing the bush outer from the bottom mounting eye and I had to carefully cut through it without damaging the eye. Cheers
Nah there`s no way, ive been trying to get the one on the passanger side out for 3 days now, no luck. the nut on the other side of the bolt broke off with a part of the bolt inside it, even so i still can not get it to come out like its fucking welded in there damn. On the driver side it came out so easy like it was nothing. Maybe ill try an air hammer to push it outside from where the nut broke off maybe id have some luck then.
We had a similar issue on the driver side. The bolt was seized onto the "weldnut" on the arm. Got it off w pentrating oil & cheater bar (impact wrench made it worse). The bolt is toast but the threads on the arm look good (I believe Honda is smart enough to use weaker steel on the bolt). The hardest part was that the bolt was oxidized to the strut bushing. We forward/reversed it adding oil & finally got it out. PLEASE NOTE: This vehicle is 21 years old & runs well (1st time removed rear struts) - this was a pain the the buttocks - but I can't complain. Thanks for the video - fun stuff.
I'd say it's a bad design, perhaps the bolt can be improved to prevent this rusting, cheers
Thank you Andy, working on this problem right now, excellent tips for me to complete the job.
Hope it goes well, those bolts can be a nightmare, hope you subscribe, more CRV videos, cheers
@@TheInfoworks The bolt has actually snapped on mine Andy, I can see the bush moving on one side, but not the other. I'm not too bothered about it, the shock looks passed it best, so I'll carefully cut it out and replace the shock and bolt.
And yes I'll subscribe, thanks for reminding me 👍
@@itsallfabrication Yes that bolt is a bad design, if there were shallow grooves in it to hold grease then maybe they wouldn't seize up so badly, cheers
Put some copper ease on the bolt Andy. Taht will make it so much easier next time.
THat's the one, I used grease as that was to hand, cheers
“Somebody with a reasonable amount of gravity “, that’s gold! Keep making these great videos Andy. I’m partial to the chainsaw ones.
Thanks bill, cheers
Had the exact same problem with our CRV! I ended up having to get out the blue point wrench and cut off the shackle on the bottom of the strut assembly, then cut the bushing off the bolt! Was a nightmare - but I had a torch and didn't have a welder handy.
Nathan, it's a poor design on a brilliant car. I had to change this spring again and there was rust on the new bolt despite lashings of grease. The water is blasted up into this region, subscribed? cheers
Had to to grind and torch the right side out but on the left side I hammered a pickle fork in on the nut side and heated the nut cherry red and the bolt came right out. Not sure if I was lucky or if the pickle for actually worked.
Hi, it's a rubbish design but it sounds like you had some success. Even with lots of grease they still corrode. Best thing is to move them every few years just to make sure, cheers
@@TheInfoworks Thanks - that came 15 years too late - feel free to chuckle - ;,) The better design is to use an attachment point that is simply a stud - that way oxidation can't occur on the inner side. The nut is made of weaker steel - so if it strips you just cut it off.
I’ve been trying to get this bolt out for 4 days now
Hi, when they're bad, they are really bad. I have cut then out with a thin disc, then replaced the bush and the bolt. Welding another narrower bolt to the remaining threaded end to extract it. Maybe the new bolt needs to be reduced when it goes through the bushing to reduce the corrosion, cheers
Great video Andy, but after you've cut the bolt and got the shock out, how do you remove the bolt stub stuck in the captive nut on the lower suspension arm? I have exactly the same problem and was going to grind off the nut and replace with a bolt and nut, but now I've seen the bolt I'm not so sure that's a good idea. Is the thread a readily available one, or a Honda Custom thread?
Paul, I just bought the right bolt for about £5 from Honda. Having heated up the captive thread we got the bolt moving but the bush let go. So we cut off the head and the bolt the ohet side of the bush. Once the shock was clear we welded a bolt to the remaining threaded stub and would it out. I bought a new bush on ebay (£10). Seem my other videos and Subscribed? Cheers
@@TheInfoworks I bought the bolt from my local dealer for £7.07 then went to a local but and bolt supply house who sold me 2 nuts (as they didn't have any nylock ones) and a couple of washers for £2. Used angle grinder on the head and stub. Took a while, and you have to be really careful of other brackets, but it's all good and rebuilt now.
That's grand, did you replace the shock bush? Cheers
@@TheInfoworks No I didn't; and I think I spoke too soon. Just rolling down the drive I noticed a rattle. It looks like the shock bush has given way. The rubber 'saddle' is about an inch above the metal bush. Is this fixable, or do I need to start the whole job again but with a new top?
Paul, I replaced the bottom bush. The whole shock unit needs to be removed. The bush is made up of 3 parts, the inner steel, the rubber, and an outer steel tube. It is all pressed into the bottom shock tubular mounting (eye). It's a bit of a game removing the bush outer from the bottom mounting eye and I had to carefully cut through it without damaging the eye. Cheers
Nah there`s no way, ive been trying to get the one on the passanger side out for 3 days now, no luck. the nut on the other side of the bolt broke off with a part of the bolt inside it, even so i still can not get it to come out like its fucking welded in there damn. On the driver side it came out so easy like it was nothing. Maybe ill try an air hammer to push it outside from where the nut broke off maybe id have some luck then.
Civic has the same problem
Assembly lube is the answer, a thing modern fitters don't use as they don't care enough and are not real mechanics, cheers