@@lifeIsTemporaryHere yes. Even that bloke is great. Not to mention engineering explained plus speed 99. Even 2 car prods. You deserve paradise. Great teachers a found on TH-cam.
After going through this nightmare a few months ago, I've promised myself that every two years, I'll take every bolt out of its bushing and apply anti-seize. It will save me so much headache and frustration when I have to work on the suspension down the road.
I think its great that Eric teaches us how to get out of sticky situations. That's what really slows us driveway do-it-yourselfers the most - when a bolt is stuck or when we cant reach or manouver something we need to.
EricTheCarGuy: Been there, done that. I had similar problem on a 1999 Honda CR-V with the rear shocks lower bolt. They seized inside the bushing and snapped clean off at the first try each side and it is a rust free Honda that never seen salt. I ended up cutting the bolts as you did, took me 2 hrs each side and I tried grinder, heat, induction heat, spray, you name it. Nothing help, there is no to much space either on the area and you want to prevent damage to other parts. Not fun at all. A job that will take 0.9 hrs per side ended up taking 6 hrs for just two 14mm bolts.
haha, my concerned neighbor came over at the loud end of a solid 2 hour battle with an 89 civic rear lower; wanted to see what all the strong language was about before reporting some domestic violence :D
Pro Tip: Fork out the dough for the Diablo Carbide tipped metal cutting sawzall blades. Yes they are like $10 each, but they last as long as ten regular metal cutting blades. Plus they cut a LOT faster! My truck was in a collision, and I cut the crushed bumper off in SECONDS with that blade!!
Project farmer a YT channel, , a YT channel, did an performance comparison on saw blades a few months ago. well worth looking at on various products and tools which show are durable and work good VS the majority of similar tools/ products that are junk.
I agree, I used to struggle with junk blades until I bought a good one, cuts through seized bushings within seconds, no BS like dealing with the cheapo blades that just wear the teeth off almost instantly
Just went through this myself and thought to myself "I'll either hate myself for buying cheap blades and struggling or I'll hate myself for buying an expensive blade that didn't work out" truth be told yes that carbide blade worked wonders!
I second those specific Diablo blades!!! Just used one today for the 1st time to cut out a seized bottom strut bolt (as well as the metal sleeve)...It was the best part of my car repair day🙌
Eric, I watch your channel religiously. You work on Hondas and I'm presently working on my 97 CR-V suspension, front and rear. I've learned so much from you and have the confidence that I will be able to finish any job I start. The lady slipper has been a lifesaver on lining up holes in the rear lower control arms. I can't thank you enough for all your thoughtful videos and clear explanations. Thanks!
I'm happy to help. I've done a few videos on my Honda Element which shares the same chassis as the CRV if you're looking for additional info. Thanks for the comment.
i sure wish i saw this earlier. had the exact same thing happen to 4 separate bolts on the rear end of my 99 CRV. sawzall and angle grinder took about 6 hours to free them all. did this on the ground in cold weather though, so it wasnt as comfortable. definitely use anti seize for those bolts.
Eric, thank you for acknowledging the fact that most mechanics dont torque every bolt they work on. I argue with others online about this all the time. There are some viewers out there that mistakently think mechanics torque every bolt they touch, whereas I have experience watching mechanics and know that they dont torque most bolts, but rather use experience as their guide in most cases.
Same thing happened to me as well on a 97 Eclipse GSX rear arm. I had already planned on dropping the whole subframe so that gave me a few extra angle options having the whole thing off the car. Do yourself a favor and spend money on good blades. After a handful of okay to decent blades I landed on Freud blades and wish I had started with them. Take your time and focus on not damaging the frame/mount. Be prepared for the tingly hands!
@Eric The Car Guy - One of those much more expensive and fancier sawzall blades would've done a lot better. Diablo blades are some of the best there is for sawzall and circular saws. Now, if you're using a multi-tool instead of a sawzall, Bosch blades are the way to go. Just a tip from someone who's burned through more than his fair share of blades for tools of all kinds over the years. Seized bolts are just no fun period. Great vid Eric!
I think the main reason I love your videos Eric is that you're a great visual storyteller! You use great editing and film making techniques. Makes the videos awesome to watch. You're a skilled gentleman!
This exact thing happened on the rear of my delsol at the toe arms... used sawzal just like you, cut rotate, cut rotate & had to cut it on either side as well. replaced the factory part with aftermarket ones with spherical bearings. Thank you for the video. Makes me feel better that I guessed right on the how-to! You have been a god-sent with your Honda videos for a non- trained DIY mechanic chick like me!
Yea, I've dealt with those too. PITA. You did right. This is how I've dealt with some of them. th-cam.com/video/tak_vsboLzU/w-d-xo.html Thanks for the comment and keep up the good work.
I had this happen on my front right wishbone on my ‘92 Accord... but I suppose a silver lining to my storm cloud was that I didn’t need to use my sawzall to cut the bolt/bushing out. That was because when I pulled on my breaker bar like I was pulling a sword out of stone, the bolt was so old and seized that it just broke on its own! Needless to say, this car got entirely new control arms and bushings out of the deal! It was fun...
I had to deal with a frozen bolt just like this very recently on my Honda Element. It was the outboard bolt through the rear, upper control arm. I was replacing the stock control arm with an adjustable one so I just cut off one side of the control arm then drilled out the rubber bushing and pressed in a new one. One real PITA job because of one bolt! Only had this problem on the left side. In comparison the right side took only 30 minutes to replace because neither of the bolts on that side were frozen.
A couple of those Diablo steel demon blades are handy to have. They're a little thicker with heavy carbide teeth.....a little beefier than the standard Diablos you were using. I think they're around 7-10 dollars a peice but they'll cut a hardened steel bolt like you were dealing with much better. Great video!
Had this issue on a 1993 accord rear strut mount. Bolt seized to the bushing and split the bushing. Had to cut the bolt out, remove the rubber and cut the sleeve to press in a new one. It was fun 😀
What I've started doing on suspension bolts like this is to measure the distance between the fender lip and hub center while the car is on the ground before disassembly. Afterwards, when time comes to tighten bolt(s) at "ride height", I use a jack to raise the suspension up to duplicate my original measurement with the car in the air, then tighten the bolt(s). Saves me from crawling under the car with a torque wrench. As an alternative, I'd lower the end of the car in question onto a set of ramps so that the suspension is still loaded but there's extra clearance.
What a timely video! I am am dealing with the exact issue right now, burned through 3 blades last night then quit for the evening to regroup. I will try the technique to rotate the bolt and may even squirt in some cutting fluid to save some blades. Thanks for making this!
And... a follow up. I ran out to the garage inspired. Grabbed my tap magic cutting oil and started at it again with the sawzall. As suspected the cutting fluid did help keep the blade healthy, although smoked a whole lot. 15 seconds, re-oil and rotate the bolt, repeat. within a min the head of the bolt popped off and the blade still reusable. Switched to the threaded side and about another min and a whack with a 4lb hammer it popped also. thank you @ericthecarguy for this video. used 4 blades total between last night and today 2 Milwaukee 'torch' and 2 Lenox 'lazer'.
Once the vehicle is aligned, pack up and move to Arizona (trade your car for one from there), so you never have to do this job again! 😉 Great job, Eric. Thanks for the video 👍
Have you ever headed west on the 202 to get on the i10 and passed the 51, 17, and now the new 202 south and the 101 between 12:00 pm and 7:30 pm? Way too many people jamming up traffic, don’t need any more rust belt midwesterners here
one time, i sat down in front of a massive 40 inch computer screen, with a big bag of weed and watched an entire series Eric did on an engine rebuild totally stoned, totally mesmerized. dude, love your channel
Good video. Ran into this issue on a toe link with a dodge journey, there wasn't room to fit an air hammer on the bolt and the shop ran out of oxygen so I couldn't use the torch. It gave me hell trying to cut the link out.
You and the rest of the top dogs of mechanic TH-cam were impressive before I became a “pro” but now that I’m officially “professional” and no longer “DIY” it’s a different perspective at how good of techs you all are
Had the same issue with every camber bolt in my supra, which is a common problem if you live in a country with salt on the roads. The general recommendation is: Don't mess with it too much, just cut the bolt. Because you will damage the subframe if you try to break it loose etc.
Just went through this exact job on my 2011 Odyssey. The bottom plastic spring seat had cracked and I was getting a clunk on bumps. Tried all of the initial methods and ended up doing the sawzall method with a $20 Milwaukee carbide blade.....took about 10 seconds a side. Was like a hot knife through butter.
I feel this...went through the exact same steps. Recip saw wasn't cutting it (too many blades chewed up). Switch over to angle grinder with cutting disk Even broke out the Dremel for fine cutting work and tight access. My issue...I only had access to one side of the bolt (vertical config with cage nut). Good vid!
Had the same issue on the top traction arms, thankfully it was when I replaced the rear subframe, but on both sides! Made it a living hell to pull the subframe out without removing the exhaust pipe, but it got home in the end! Thanks for the quality posts!
Im literally trying to replace the lower control arms on my Accord right now and this has happened on both sides on multiple bushes. The light of Eric the Honda God has shown down upon me 😂
Last time I did this, I didn't even bother with the sawzall because the bushing insert is hardened. What I ended up doing was cutting the end of the shock open and removing it from the bushing, and then removing the rubber off the insert. Then I heated the bushing insert with a torch. Once I had it glowing bright red, I laid on it with an impact until it started turning, then it came out with little resistance with a pry bar under the bolt head. As the bolt came out, so did the reddest rust I had ever seen. As for overheating the mount, it shouldn't be much of an issue since the rust between the insert and the frame/bolt acts as an insulator.
I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel and it went pretty quick. About 20 minutes. Like you I had limited access and had to keep turning the bolt while cutting.
I had two lower control arms with the bolt seized in the bushings. I went all out and bought me a Milwaukee sawzall with the diablo blades. Showed those bushings who's boss.
That’s happening tomorrow . Working on my 02 ranger that someone neglected for a long time before I bought it . Upper Control arm is FUBAR . Sawzall time 😅. Stuck Eccentric Alignment bolts . Of course one side went well , we all know what that means . 😂
Haha same here. I got a rusted alignment bolt in the rear control arm. Half of the bolt is snapped while the other half is seized in the bushing. Literally been driving it like that for months😂. That thing is not going anywhere anytime soon.
@@ya_boi_zak5927 I’m going to just start hitting that rear control arm bolt with a hammer, dousing it w some PB blaster for like two weeks. Then cross my fingers that my impact will drive it out.
after 30 years of salt the bolts on my CRX were removed with a thin angle grinder blade :) the bushings had to be pressed out with a 20 ton press instead of a 7, but at least they came out.
I've had to do this twice now as my shops alignment tech. In both cases I saved the bushing and arm, but had to spread the ears a bit, cut the bolts, and then use either a 20 ton hydraulic press or my airhammer and the internal metal portion of the pushing supported to hammer out the bolt. I'm getting quicker, but it is really inconvenient to spend 2 hours cutting and hammering.
I've had the same problem front and rear on my magnum, but I didn't cut the bolt I use the air hammer back and forth with some rotation with the breaker bar. One of the bolt in the rear has been over torqued was a pain to remove, like you say during alignment they doesn't care about torque. I use antiseize also to coat the bolt and inside the core in hope to prevent that...
Bro you gotta rebuild suspension on the integra. It looks nasty as hell. I redid the whole thing on mine with koni yellows and a bunch of performance parts for like a g total and it rides beautiful now and looks great. You got the skills to do it yourself so make moves bro. 👌🏻 they're classics now, gotta treat them that way.
Had one of these seized up on one of mine. Used the air hammer with pickle fork attachment and cranked the bolt at the same time. Came loose with some effort.
I've been pretty lucky lately using an induction coil .... But I've been threw everything in this video ! Great techniques that any DIY or season tech can use !
Working flat rate in the dealership I worked for if I had a bolt seized and I was changing the arm any way I'd make sure we had a new bolt so I'd get a sawzall and cut the bolt. Edit: watching the video all the way, I see that's the technique you used
I use a ramset with an aluminum or spring steel rod down the barrel Highest powder charge just take off the nut and put that rod plugged barrel on the end of the bolt and BAM! Its sketchy i know trust me i know but works so well its unreal! i call it.... 'The Ramburglar"
So with a steel rod humml ? If I had one I would try it because I don't have another concentric bolt with me and this is Sunday, so I drilled into the bushing and sprayed the crap wit Marvel (smells nice 🙂 works great) turned it a few times , and sitting overnight
Man I hatee when bolts get seised in bushings. It’s such a pain, especially when it’s something like you had here where the bolt your dealing with is not the easiest thing to get to. Unfortunately living in the rust belt I deal with this a LOT. I just did leaf spring & hanger bushings on a 03 Silverado yesterday and only ONE bolt came out. The other 5 I had to cut, it was a joy.
Audi has a similar bolt in their upper front suspension. We call it the A-Hole bolt as it is a similar PITA but with less access. The main problem with this A-Hole bolt is, from what I understand, the fact that there are two different metals. The wishbone part is aluminium and the bolt is (stainless?) steel. It causes corrosion on the inside, almost "welding" the bolt inside the wishbone.
I’ve got a nightmare camber bolt stuck fast in my old CR-V I’ve tried a lot of things but this morning I woke up and thought of a reciprocating saw and then I found your video so brilliant another thing to try and sadly buy.
For this reason, I've tried to find greasable bolts. They make some for performance offroad suspension systems, but there aren't very many sizes to choose from. If you can, though, replace those bolts with greasable ones and you'll be golden!
Another nuts and bolts ETCG video - it doesn't get any better. This is the kind of job that doesn't get much coverage on TH-cam because it involves honesty - the integrity to show exactly what's likely to happen, even when it doesn't look pretty. Ironically, it's this true-to-life workmanship that brings us back week after week. Still the best advice, still the best company... still the best on TH-cam. Long live Eric the Car Guy!
I’ve poured water on saws all blades and it does help some to keep it cooler so the blade stays sharp longer. I’ve been able to cut through rebar pretty easy with cheaper blades because of it. Just a thought.
Had the same experience on both of my 1995 Ford Rangers with the stock crossmembers, with similar bushings. Used an angle grinder to grind off the bolt head; since I was upgrading to a prior-generation solid crossmember where neither frame bracket needed,(one had to be removed in fact), I ended up prying open the ears to get the threaded end out of the bracket. Or I cut the ears off entirely... I can't remembers since the bracket in question was the one I had to grind/drill/chisel the frame rivets off of. No matter what, wasn't fun! Both times, ironically, the other side's bushing always came out easy... always one side, and one side only!
Lucky you can get to the bushing from both sides. The retaining nut on an Evo 8/9 front LCA is INSIDE the subframe and is known to snap off if you man handle it. Instead of removing the arm to press out the ball joint, I resorted to using a C clamp press lol. Btw, for tightening suspension on ground while loaded, you can look into DIY wood cribs. I used those for a DIY alignment, but it also allowed me to properly torque bolts down with more clearance underneath the car.
2000 Civic. I had this same issue and also ended up using a sawzall with a Diablo Carbide blade. Took a very long time but the blade still works perfectly. This was for the toe arms and the adjustment nut also fell off inside the frame so I used a circular saw big enough to reach in and place it back in.
My dad tells the mechanic “oh no don’t worry, my son and I can take care of that job.” .... one stuck bolt and a million curse words later, here I am 😭
Had had trouble finding spring seats for my Capri/Mercury. Then someone showed me a picture of his suspension spring with a piece of garden hose threaded on it. lol Very back yard but I guess it worked. Great video.
Great informational video. You make it so novices believe they can do it too... until they get halfway through the job and think, this is not worth it and then call you. Great video
Great video. thank you for posting it. I did the same thing on ALL rear control arms for a 2005 and a 2006 Ford focus. i had better accessibility, so i used a grinder, rather than a reciprocating saw. and also, instead of replacing the control arms with new after market ones, i was able to buy me a Prothane bushings kit. pressed the old ones out and the new ones in. it was a very involved job.
Eric, the car is nearly 20 years old. The bolt seized in it is like expected after all these years, Honda did some great engineering if it held up this long and it's still a minor issue as far issues with cars. Consider some other cars, nearly the entire suspension system is already having issues and needs to be replaced just 5-6 years out of the factory (khmmm..khmm hyundai, khmm.)
I'm getting ready to do a similar repair in the rear of my 2004 Subaru.Outback. It seems the general consensus is that applying some sort of lubricant won't help in prolonging the life of the blade(s). Seems it'd just make for a smokey/oily mess. That said, I plan to get a handful of the Milwaukee Torch blades to have on hand, before starting my project.
Almost kinda makes you think that the pesky manufacturers deliberately do not use any anti-seize compound on those bolts - just so your forced to go through all of this and buy a new arm. Had many a similar situation myself in the past, i always put back together with anti-seize to insure i can get it all apart easily again a few years down the line. I know a lot of people will say that you should never use anti-seize for this reason or that, but in 30+ years of working on cars I have never had a problem caused by using it. It has, however saved me from having many a problem.
Sawzall to the rescue. I just did rear coils on my benz e320 and had to do things I'm not proud of all bcuz of bolts stuck in control arm bushings, but got the job done. Now for figuring out the camber and toe that I messed up 😅. Fun fun stuff!
I've done those wishbone bolts more than once. I have found that with a cutting disc on a grinder, it isn't too bad to slip up between the control arm and the wish bone, and cut the bolt off. Then just beat the old bushing out, put in a new one, and away you go. To me, that isn't really any more difficult than messing around separating the inner joint on the new CV axle.
Exactly the same setup on the ford Mondeo mk3 estate/station wagon. Only I had to use a hand hacksaw. Bolt wasn't anywhere near as thick as that one in the video. And also the rear spring on mine was under hardly any pressure when jacked up. Those cam bolts are for adjusting the toe so it may be an idea getting your wheel geometry checked every year, the mechanic will turn the bolt for you and hopefully prevent the bolt seizing up in the future. If the cam bolt seizes it means the toe can't be adjusted and your tyres will wear out really quick.
Thanks Mag Chloride... Dealing with a 2013 F150 lower front strut bolt situation currently. Thanks for the help Sir! Probably going to have to cut bolt out. Cheers!
The Milwaukee Diablo blades are worth their weight in gold for things like this, they seem a little pricey but when you figure they’ll Out cut 10 of the cheaper blades there’s not much of a difference in price but a whole lot less aggravation.
Brilliant video. Perfect explanation. Before watching I thought I might do this myself, but now I know it's a job for my mechanic. Thanks for great content. Subscribe clicked! 👍🏻
I had a badly rusted control arm at the bottom of its spring, but the bushings probably needed replacing after 24 years on my 97 Bonneville. I tried using my Sawzall and ruined 2 metal-cutting blade on the bushing bolts (probably 8.8 SAE grade, or higher), so I switched to my Grinder with cutoff wheels. It worked like a hot knife thru butter, but to completely cut them off I needed to cut apart the control arm in pieces before attacking the bolts.
Good morning my friend, I am a humble engineer from Corinth Greece. I watch you and admire you for the perfection of your knowledge and for your successful diagnoses. Well done, well done, well done. My question is a question that I have been looking for an answer for years now and no one and no bibliography has the answer. Why the impellers on the fans of some cars, have different distances from each other ??. This is the question, I can not give a substantiated answer. Please, if you know the answer, give me at least your opinion. I admire you, George engineer from Corinth Greece. Thanks for being well.
cut off wheel works pretty well from my experience; had to cut out the rear lower shock bolts on an 8th gen civic. Recommend the $20 diamond edge wheels
@@oldrestless Just some background, I put an 8th Gen Mugen Sport Suspension on my FA5; here's how I had to cut the rear suspension: I cut two lines through the lower shock mounts, into the rubber bushing and into the rear shock collar (partly into the bolts) to form an X. I pried the pieces down with vice grips and then I then sprayed Thunderbolt all over the bare lower shock bolt; then unscrewed the bolts. I made the cuts from underneath the car's fuel tank, so the cuts were made towards the outside of the vehicle from innermost shock point. You'll need to buy new lower bolts; if you're inquiring about an 8th gen, the part no. is 90181-SNA-000--they're something like 3 bucks a pop. Just to clarify, I used a Makita electric cutoff wheel from Home Depot, so it wasn't a handheld pneumatic tool. It's tedious and can be done numerous ways; no matter what, the shock and bolt gets ruined; hope this helps.
Man, I hit a curb hard in my 92 civic lx last year. I had to replace the k frame /sub frame front susp. Because the botlt through the bushing was just spinning in place. What a pain!
@15:22 All my car-guy friends tell me vehicles are delicate machines that need to be gently influenced when worked on, but every one single of them has a BFH or two they love using =)
Yup. Same problem on a 07 Civic, while doing a drum to disk brake conversion. Sucked! Sawzall saved the day. DONT get an expensive blade. It did not make it any better for me. Waste of money.
My fellow rusted car sufferer, if you slow down the sawsall speed it won't burn those blades like that! I just suffered through the same situation and was curious if anyone had an easier way but nope, we both used the same method. (ahhh the 2nd bolt was nice, mine the first bolt was nice then the 2nd one!!!! NOOO! :)) I hear you on "not so much these days" because I'm about 22 years into it and I am so busy at the shop that I just send these ones down the road.
Yup, #Me2 06Accord, dissimilar metals. Crap design. Rubber is prob what Bruce Wayne used in the BatSuit...almost indestructible. I used a cutoff wheel and angle grinder. Worked great. Took 2 months of planning for my shade tree diy ass. Replaced bolts with new ones b/c why not? Copper anti-sirzed the pheck out of it.
Wouldn't it be nice if the factory applied anti-sneeze grease to all bolts that fit through a steel bushing? I wonder how many years it would last on a car that is driven daily. Nice job with the video Eric.
After walking to Ace three times for new sawzall blades a couple months back, I probably would have bought three blades the first time had I seen this video first.
@EricTheCarGuy I had issues with those sleeved bushings in the rear of my 94 integra. Just replaced the whole strut assembly and lower control arm from a junkyard to not bother with that crap.
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
It’s always that 1 bolt “it will take 10 min” 3 hours later 🙄😡
Vinyldecalgraff I’m literally doing that right now it’s taken me 2 hours and it hasn’t budged a bit 🤣
Seth Wiliams lol that’s how it goes.
8 days here, i shoulda watched this video.
I just had this with my rear lower control arms for my 2008 jeep patriot
3weeks later the mechanic got it out, only took an hour for him to do thougg
You have taught me almost ever thing I know about cars. You and Chris fix a my heros. Am in Uganda. Thanks
Don’t forget South Main Auto 😎🔧 All of you Guys are awesome mentors!
@@lifeIsTemporaryHere yes. Even that bloke is great. Not to mention engineering explained plus speed 99. Even 2 car prods. You deserve paradise. Great teachers a found on TH-cam.
D best teachers and all free
Hello Uganda! Thank you for the comment!
South main auto is another good one.
After going through this nightmare a few months ago, I've promised myself that every two years, I'll take every bolt out of its bushing and apply anti-seize. It will save me so much headache and frustration when I have to work on the suspension down the road.
I think its great that Eric teaches us how to get out of sticky situations. That's what really slows us driveway do-it-yourselfers the most - when a bolt is stuck or when we cant reach or manouver something we need to.
Eric is definitely appreciated by us professionals as well. Very knowledgeable technician.
EricTheCarGuy: Been there, done that. I had similar problem on a 1999 Honda CR-V with the rear shocks lower bolt. They seized inside the bushing and snapped clean off at the first try each side and it is a rust free Honda that never seen salt. I ended up cutting the bolts as you did, took me 2 hrs each side and I tried grinder, heat, induction heat, spray, you name it. Nothing help, there is no to much space either on the area and you want to prevent damage to other parts. Not fun at all. A job that will take 0.9 hrs per side ended up taking 6 hrs for just two 14mm bolts.
haha, my concerned neighbor came over at the loud end of a solid 2 hour battle with an 89 civic rear lower; wanted to see what all the strong language was about before reporting some domestic violence :D
These are the bane of automotive techs everywhere. And they smell super awesome when they're melting.
Pro Tip: Fork out the dough for the Diablo Carbide tipped metal cutting sawzall blades. Yes they are like $10 each, but they last as long as ten regular metal cutting blades. Plus they cut a LOT faster! My truck was in a collision, and I cut the crushed bumper off in SECONDS with that blade!!
Project farmer a YT channel, , a YT channel, did an performance comparison on saw blades a few months ago. well worth looking at on various products and tools which show are durable and work good VS the majority of similar tools/ products that are junk.
I agree, I used to struggle with junk blades until I bought a good one, cuts through seized bushings within seconds, no BS like dealing with the cheapo blades that just wear the teeth off almost instantly
Yessir!
Just went through this myself and thought to myself "I'll either hate myself for buying cheap blades and struggling or I'll hate myself for buying an expensive blade that didn't work out" truth be told yes that carbide blade worked wonders!
I second those specific Diablo blades!!! Just used one today for the 1st time to cut out a seized bottom strut bolt (as well as the metal sleeve)...It was the best part of my car repair day🙌
Eric, I watch your channel religiously. You work on Hondas and I'm presently working on my 97 CR-V suspension, front and rear. I've learned so much from you and have the confidence that I will be able to finish any job I start. The lady slipper has been a lifesaver on lining up holes in the rear lower control arms. I can't thank you enough for all your thoughtful videos and clear explanations. Thanks!
I'm happy to help. I've done a few videos on my Honda Element which shares the same chassis as the CRV if you're looking for additional info. Thanks for the comment.
i sure wish i saw this earlier. had the exact same thing happen to 4 separate bolts on the rear end of my 99 CRV. sawzall and angle grinder took about 6 hours to free them all. did this on the ground in cold weather though, so it wasnt as comfortable. definitely use anti seize for those bolts.
Eric, thank you for acknowledging the fact that most mechanics dont torque every bolt they work on. I argue with others online about this all the time. There are some viewers out there that mistakently think mechanics torque every bolt they touch, whereas I have experience watching mechanics and know that they dont torque most bolts, but rather use experience as their guide in most cases.
Same thing happened to me as well on a 97 Eclipse GSX rear arm. I had already planned on dropping the whole subframe so that gave me a few extra angle options having the whole thing off the car. Do yourself a favor and spend money on good blades. After a handful of okay to decent blades I landed on Freud blades and wish I had started with them. Take your time and focus on not damaging the frame/mount. Be prepared for the tingly hands!
@Eric The Car Guy - One of those much more expensive and fancier sawzall blades would've done a lot better. Diablo blades are some of the best there is for sawzall and circular saws. Now, if you're using a multi-tool instead of a sawzall, Bosch blades are the way to go. Just a tip from someone who's burned through more than his fair share of blades for tools of all kinds over the years.
Seized bolts are just no fun period. Great vid Eric!
I think the main reason I love your videos Eric is that you're a great visual storyteller! You use great editing and film making techniques. Makes the videos awesome to watch. You're a skilled gentleman!
Thank you!
This exact thing happened on the rear of my delsol at the toe arms... used sawzal just like you, cut rotate, cut rotate & had to cut it on either side as well. replaced the factory part with aftermarket ones with spherical bearings. Thank you for the video. Makes me feel better that I guessed right on the how-to! You have been a god-sent with your Honda videos for a non- trained DIY mechanic chick like me!
Yea, I've dealt with those too. PITA. You did right. This is how I've dealt with some of them. th-cam.com/video/tak_vsboLzU/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the comment and keep up the good work.
I had this happen on my front right wishbone on my ‘92 Accord... but I suppose a silver lining to my storm cloud was that I didn’t need to use my sawzall to cut the bolt/bushing out. That was because when I pulled on my breaker bar like I was pulling a sword out of stone, the bolt was so old and seized that it just broke on its own! Needless to say, this car got entirely new control arms and bushings out of the deal! It was fun...
I had to deal with a frozen bolt just like this very recently on my Honda Element. It was the outboard bolt through the rear, upper control arm. I was replacing the stock control arm with an adjustable one so I just cut off one side of the control arm then drilled out the rubber bushing and pressed in a new one. One real PITA job because of one bolt! Only had this problem on the left side. In comparison the right side took only 30 minutes to replace because neither of the bolts on that side were frozen.
A couple of those Diablo steel demon blades are handy to have. They're a little thicker with heavy carbide teeth.....a little beefier than the standard Diablos you were using. I think they're around 7-10 dollars a peice but they'll cut a hardened steel bolt like you were dealing with much better. Great video!
And don't forget to lubricate the blade. Just like drill bits for metal, saw blades for metal also appreciate it.
Where do you cut? Can you cut the inside bushing part? Thanks, trying this job this weekend and preparing for stuck bolts.
Had this issue on a 1993 accord rear strut mount. Bolt seized to the bushing and split the bushing. Had to cut the bolt out, remove the rubber and cut the sleeve to press in a new one. It was fun 😀
Forgot to mention..melting rubber/bushing smoke sucks....and awesome video btw
What I've started doing on suspension bolts like this is to measure the distance between the fender lip and hub center while the car is on the ground before disassembly. Afterwards, when time comes to tighten bolt(s) at "ride height", I use a jack to raise the suspension up to duplicate my original measurement with the car in the air, then tighten the bolt(s). Saves me from crawling under the car with a torque wrench.
As an alternative, I'd lower the end of the car in question onto a set of ramps so that the suspension is still loaded but there's extra clearance.
What a timely video! I am am dealing with the exact issue right now, burned through 3 blades last night then quit for the evening to regroup. I will try the technique to rotate the bolt and may even squirt in some cutting fluid to save some blades. Thanks for making this!
And... a follow up. I ran out to the garage inspired. Grabbed my tap magic cutting oil and started at it again with the sawzall. As suspected the cutting fluid did help keep the blade healthy, although smoked a whole lot. 15 seconds, re-oil and rotate the bolt, repeat. within a min the head of the bolt popped off and the blade still reusable. Switched to the threaded side and about another min and a whack with a 4lb hammer it popped also. thank you @ericthecarguy for this video. used 4 blades total between last night and today 2 Milwaukee 'torch' and 2 Lenox 'lazer'.
Once the vehicle is aligned, pack up and move to Arizona (trade your car for one from there), so you never have to do this job again! 😉 Great job, Eric. Thanks for the video 👍
Have you ever headed west on the 202 to get on the i10 and passed the 51, 17, and now the new 202 south and the 101 between 12:00 pm and 7:30 pm? Way too many people jamming up traffic, don’t need any more rust belt midwesterners here
I’ve got Michigan rust. 😢
one time, i sat down in front of a massive 40 inch computer screen, with a big bag of weed and watched an entire series Eric did on an engine rebuild totally stoned, totally mesmerized. dude, love your channel
Groovy ❤
WEED is LEGAL in Canada...snack sales have skyrocketed,video viewing is at an all time High(sic)
Good video. Ran into this issue on a toe link with a dodge journey, there wasn't room to fit an air hammer on the bolt and the shop ran out of oxygen so I couldn't use the torch. It gave me hell trying to cut the link out.
You and the rest of the top dogs of mechanic TH-cam were impressive before I became a “pro” but now that I’m officially “professional” and no longer “DIY” it’s a different perspective at how good of techs you all are
Had the same issue with every camber bolt in my supra, which is a common problem if you live in a country with salt on the roads. The general recommendation is: Don't mess with it too much, just cut the bolt. Because you will damage the subframe if you try to break it loose etc.
Great point !!
It's encouraging to see even the pros have to just cut/bang/destroy something to solve a problem.
More often than you might think actually.
Just went through this exact job on my 2011 Odyssey. The bottom plastic spring seat had cracked and I was getting a clunk on bumps. Tried all of the initial methods and ended up doing the sawzall method with a $20 Milwaukee carbide blade.....took about 10 seconds a side. Was like a hot knife through butter.
I feel this...went through the exact same steps. Recip saw wasn't cutting it (too many blades chewed up). Switch over to angle grinder with cutting disk Even broke out the Dremel for fine cutting work and tight access. My issue...I only had access to one side of the bolt (vertical config with cage nut). Good vid!
Had the same issue on the top traction arms, thankfully it was when I replaced the rear subframe, but on both sides!
Made it a living hell to pull the subframe out without removing the exhaust pipe, but it got home in the end!
Thanks for the quality posts!
Im literally trying to replace the lower control arms on my Accord right now and this has happened on both sides on multiple bushes. The light of Eric the Honda God has shown down upon me 😂
Last time I did this, I didn't even bother with the sawzall because the bushing insert is hardened.
What I ended up doing was cutting the end of the shock open and removing it from the bushing, and then removing the rubber off the insert. Then I heated the bushing insert with a torch. Once I had it glowing bright red, I laid on it with an impact until it started turning, then it came out with little resistance with a pry bar under the bolt head. As the bolt came out, so did the reddest rust I had ever seen.
As for overheating the mount, it shouldn't be much of an issue since the rust between the insert and the frame/bolt acts as an insulator.
I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel and it went pretty quick. About 20 minutes. Like you I had limited access and had to keep turning the bolt while cutting.
I had two lower control arms with the bolt seized in the bushings. I went all out and bought me a Milwaukee sawzall with the diablo blades. Showed those bushings who's boss.
That’s happening tomorrow . Working on my 02 ranger that someone neglected for a long time before I bought it . Upper Control arm is FUBAR . Sawzall time 😅. Stuck Eccentric Alignment bolts . Of course one side went well , we all know what that means . 😂
The fact that I’m here means I’m either already or about to deal with a tough situation. Thanks for the tips Eric!
Haha same here. I got a rusted alignment bolt in the rear control arm. Half of the bolt is snapped while the other half is seized in the bushing. Literally been driving it like that for months😂. That thing is not going anywhere anytime soon.
@@ya_boi_zak5927
I’m going to just start hitting that rear control arm bolt with a hammer, dousing it w some PB blaster for like two weeks. Then cross my fingers that my impact will drive it out.
@@DonBMW best of luck to ya. I'ma just do what Eric did and just go all in.
This is old classic Eric the Car Guy. Really enjoyed this. Thanks.
I have had real good luck w/Lenox sawzall blades. they cost more, but are worth it. Clay
Hard to find good mechanic's that care like you.
after 30 years of salt the bolts on my CRX were removed with a thin angle grinder blade :) the bushings had to be pressed out with a 20 ton press instead of a 7, but at least they came out.
I've had to do this twice now as my shops alignment tech. In both cases I saved the bushing and arm, but had to spread the ears a bit, cut the bolts, and then use either a 20 ton hydraulic press or my airhammer and the internal metal portion of the pushing supported to hammer out the bolt. I'm getting quicker, but it is really inconvenient to spend 2 hours cutting and hammering.
I've had the same problem front and rear on my magnum, but I didn't cut the bolt I use the air hammer back and forth with some rotation with the breaker bar. One of the bolt in the rear has been over torqued was a pain to remove, like you say during alignment they doesn't care about torque. I use antiseize also to coat the bolt and inside the core in hope to prevent that...
“Once you get the bolt in you’re basicly home free”
*taps bolt, doesn't move*
Thinks to self, “I’m not home free."
That's more anti-seize on one bush and bolt than I've seen Eric use in every other video he's ever done!!
Bro you gotta rebuild suspension on the integra. It looks nasty as hell. I redid the whole thing on mine with koni yellows and a bunch of performance parts for like a g total and it rides beautiful now and looks great. You got the skills to do it yourself so make moves bro. 👌🏻 they're classics now, gotta treat them that way.
Had one of these seized up on one of mine. Used the air hammer with pickle fork attachment and cranked the bolt at the same time. Came loose with some effort.
I've been pretty lucky lately using an induction coil .... But I've been threw everything in this video ! Great techniques that any DIY or season tech can use !
Working flat rate in the dealership I worked for if I had a bolt seized and I was changing the arm any way I'd make sure we had a new bolt so I'd get a sawzall and cut the bolt.
Edit: watching the video all the way, I see that's the technique you used
I use a ramset with an aluminum or spring steel rod down the barrel Highest powder charge just take off the nut and put that rod plugged barrel on the end of the bolt and BAM! Its sketchy i know trust me i know but works so well its unreal! i call it.... 'The Ramburglar"
That’s actually a great idea
So with a steel rod humml ? If I had one I would try it because I don't have another concentric bolt with me and this is Sunday, so I drilled into the bushing and sprayed the crap wit Marvel (smells nice 🙂 works great) turned it a few times , and sitting overnight
Man I hatee when bolts get seised in bushings. It’s such a pain, especially when it’s something like you had here where the bolt your dealing with is not the easiest thing to get to. Unfortunately living in the rust belt I deal with this a LOT. I just did leaf spring & hanger bushings on a 03 Silverado yesterday and only ONE bolt came out. The other 5 I had to cut, it was a joy.
Heat, cutting and lots of patience. Nicely done Eric!
Audi has a similar bolt in their upper front suspension. We call it the A-Hole bolt as it is a similar PITA but with less access.
The main problem with this A-Hole bolt is, from what I understand, the fact that there are two different metals. The wishbone part is aluminium and the bolt is (stainless?) steel. It causes corrosion on the inside, almost "welding" the bolt inside the wishbone.
And it tends to bend inside as well :/
Ive seen 3 of those knuckles just breaking apart when bolt starts to come out
I’ve got a nightmare camber bolt stuck fast in my old CR-V I’ve tried a lot of things but this morning I woke up and thought of a reciprocating saw and then I found your video so brilliant another thing to try and sadly buy.
For this reason, I've tried to find greasable bolts. They make some for performance offroad suspension systems, but there aren't very many sizes to choose from. If you can, though, replace those bolts with greasable ones and you'll be golden!
So far my anti seize technique has been sufficient.
Really great explanations and supporting camera shots, like the rust-dust pattern showing where the old strut had lain. Thank you.
Good stuff, Eric. Glad to see you doing more of these kinds of videos which brought me to your channel in the first place. Rock on!
Another nuts and bolts ETCG video - it doesn't get any better. This is the kind of job that doesn't get much coverage on TH-cam because it involves honesty - the integrity to show exactly what's likely to happen, even when it doesn't look pretty. Ironically, it's this true-to-life workmanship that brings us back week after week. Still the best advice, still the best company... still the best on TH-cam. Long live Eric the Car Guy!
You're too kind. Seriously. Thank you for your viewership and comments. Both are very much appreciated.
I’ve poured water on saws all blades and it does help some to keep it cooler so the blade stays sharp longer. I’ve been able to cut through rebar pretty easy with cheaper blades because of it. Just a thought.
Had the same experience on both of my 1995 Ford Rangers with the stock crossmembers, with similar bushings. Used an angle grinder to grind off the bolt head; since I was upgrading to a prior-generation solid crossmember where neither frame bracket needed,(one had to be removed in fact), I ended up prying open the ears to get the threaded end out of the bracket. Or I cut the ears off entirely... I can't remembers since the bracket in question was the one I had to grind/drill/chisel the frame rivets off of. No matter what, wasn't fun!
Both times, ironically, the other side's bushing always came out easy... always one side, and one side only!
Lucky you can get to the bushing from both sides. The retaining nut on an Evo 8/9 front LCA is INSIDE the subframe and is known to snap off if you man handle it. Instead of removing the arm to press out the ball joint, I resorted to using a C clamp press lol. Btw, for tightening suspension on ground while loaded, you can look into DIY wood cribs. I used those for a DIY alignment, but it also allowed me to properly torque bolts down with more clearance underneath the car.
2000 Civic. I had this same issue and also ended up using a sawzall with a Diablo Carbide blade. Took a very long time but the blade still works perfectly. This was for the toe arms and the adjustment nut also fell off inside the frame so I used a circular saw big enough to reach in and place it back in.
Even the super expensive blades don't last much longer. Nice video. Thx. Had to cut a bolt off the rear shock of a 2005 1.7l civic.
My dad tells the mechanic “oh no don’t worry, my son and I can take care of that job.” .... one stuck bolt and a million curse words later, here I am 😭
Had had trouble finding spring seats for my Capri/Mercury. Then someone showed me a picture of his suspension spring with a piece of garden hose threaded on it. lol Very back yard but I guess it worked. Great video.
Great informational video. You make it so novices believe they can do it too... until they get halfway through the job and think, this is not worth it and then call you. Great video
My entire life(and I am getting OLD) I have always been Hopeful I would Get Lucky.Used up all 3 wishes on that one !
Man you gotta get those milwaukee torch carbide teeth blades. They chew threw stuff like that in 30 seconds.
Great video. thank you for posting it. I did the same thing on ALL rear control arms for a 2005 and a 2006 Ford focus. i had better accessibility, so i used a grinder, rather than a reciprocating saw. and also, instead of replacing the control arms with new after market ones, i was able to buy me a Prothane bushings kit. pressed the old ones out and the new ones in. it was a very involved job.
Eric, the car is nearly 20 years old. The bolt seized in it is like expected after all these years, Honda did some great engineering if it held up this long and it's still a minor issue as far issues with cars. Consider some other cars, nearly the entire suspension system is already having issues and needs to be replaced just 5-6 years out of the factory (khmmm..khmm hyundai, khmm.)
I'm getting ready to do a similar repair in the rear of my 2004 Subaru.Outback. It seems the general consensus is that applying some sort of lubricant won't help in prolonging the life of the blade(s). Seems it'd just make for a smokey/oily mess. That said, I plan to get a handful of the Milwaukee Torch blades to have on hand, before starting my project.
Almost kinda makes you think that the pesky manufacturers deliberately do not use any anti-seize compound on those bolts - just so your forced to go through all of this and buy a new arm. Had many a similar situation myself in the past, i always put back together with anti-seize to insure i can get it all apart easily again a few years down the line. I know a lot of people will say that you should never use anti-seize for this reason or that, but in 30+ years of working on cars I have never had a problem caused by using it. It has, however saved me from having many a problem.
Sawzall to the rescue. I just did rear coils on my benz e320 and had to do things I'm not proud of all bcuz of bolts stuck in control arm bushings, but got the job done. Now for figuring out the camber and toe that I messed up 😅. Fun fun stuff!
I've done those wishbone bolts more than once. I have found that with a cutting disc on a grinder, it isn't too bad to slip up between the control arm and the wish bone, and cut the bolt off. Then just beat the old bushing out, put in a new one, and away you go. To me, that isn't really any more difficult than messing around separating the inner joint on the new CV axle.
Exactly the same setup on the ford Mondeo mk3 estate/station wagon. Only I had to use a hand hacksaw. Bolt wasn't anywhere near as thick as that one in the video. And also the rear spring on mine was under hardly any pressure when jacked up. Those cam bolts are for adjusting the toe so it may be an idea getting your wheel geometry checked every year, the mechanic will turn the bolt for you and hopefully prevent the bolt seizing up in the future. If the cam bolt seizes it means the toe can't be adjusted and your tyres will wear out really quick.
Thank you Eric I enjoy watching your videos I am from South Africa
Hello South Africa!
We’ve all been there. Something being impossibly stuck in an impossible place.
Lol I just had this exact thing happen to me on my 06 TL. Ended up cutting the bolt with a Sawzall as well.
Thanks Mag Chloride... Dealing with a 2013 F150 lower front strut bolt situation currently. Thanks for the help Sir! Probably going to have to cut bolt out. Cheers!
Great job Eric that's one way to get those off its safer with the saw but a little time consuming but it works well ...Thanks...
The Milwaukee Diablo blades are worth their weight in gold for things like this, they seem a little pricey but when you figure they’ll Out cut 10 of the cheaper blades there’s not much of a difference in price but a whole lot less aggravation.
Eric the car guy .........the king of cool
Brilliant video. Perfect explanation. Before watching I thought I might do this myself, but now I know it's a job for my mechanic. Thanks for great content. Subscribe clicked! 👍🏻
Carbide tipped blades work way better than normal blades for stuff like this.
Can you cut ball joint off too?
I had a badly rusted control arm at the bottom of its spring, but the bushings probably needed replacing after 24 years on my 97 Bonneville. I tried using my Sawzall and ruined 2 metal-cutting blade on the bushing bolts (probably 8.8 SAE grade, or higher), so I switched to my Grinder with cutoff wheels. It worked like a hot knife thru butter, but to completely cut them off I needed to cut apart the control arm in pieces before attacking the bolts.
Hi Eric, it's been a long time since I've seen you on TH-cam. Nice to see you're still at it!
Excellent guide Eric, I am in the same boat in a 08 Oddy.
Good luck!
Good morning my friend, I am a humble engineer from Corinth Greece. I watch you and admire you for the perfection of your knowledge and for your successful diagnoses. Well done, well done, well done. My question is a question that I have been looking for an answer for years now and no one and no bibliography has the answer. Why the impellers on the fans of some cars, have different distances from each other ??. This is the question, I can not give a substantiated answer. Please, if you know the answer, give me at least your opinion. I admire you, George engineer from Corinth Greece. Thanks for being well.
🤷🏼♂️
cut off wheel works pretty well from my experience; had to cut out the rear lower shock bolts on an 8th gen civic. Recommend the $20 diamond edge wheels
Where did you cut? On the inside or did you cut the head and captured nut off from outside? Thanks
@@oldrestless
Just some background, I put an 8th Gen Mugen Sport Suspension on my FA5; here's how I had to cut the rear suspension:
I cut two lines through the lower shock mounts, into the rubber bushing and into the rear shock collar (partly into the bolts) to form an X. I pried the pieces down with vice grips and then I then sprayed Thunderbolt all over the bare lower shock bolt; then unscrewed the bolts. I made the cuts from underneath the car's fuel tank, so the cuts were made towards the outside of the vehicle from innermost shock point. You'll need to buy new lower bolts; if you're inquiring about an 8th gen, the part no. is 90181-SNA-000--they're something like 3 bucks a pop.
Just to clarify, I used a Makita electric cutoff wheel from Home Depot, so it wasn't a handheld pneumatic tool.
It's tedious and can be done numerous ways; no matter what, the shock and bolt gets ruined; hope this helps.
Man, I hit a curb hard in my 92 civic lx last year. I had to replace the k frame /sub frame front susp. Because the botlt through the bushing was just spinning in place. What a pain!
@15:22 All my car-guy friends tell me vehicles are delicate machines that need to be gently influenced when worked on, but every one single of them has a BFH or two they love using =)
Great video Eric. The whole time you were cutting I was like man please don't chop through that exhaust
Yup. Same problem on a 07 Civic, while doing a drum to disk brake conversion. Sucked! Sawzall saved the day. DONT get an expensive blade. It did not make it any better for me. Waste of money.
My fellow rusted car sufferer, if you slow down the sawsall speed it won't burn those blades like that! I just suffered through the same situation and was curious if anyone had an easier way but nope, we both used the same method. (ahhh the 2nd bolt was nice, mine the first bolt was nice then the 2nd one!!!! NOOO! :))
I hear you on "not so much these days" because I'm about 22 years into it and I am so busy at the shop that I just send these ones down the road.
YAAA! Anti-seize!
That is a hallmark of someone whom is a thinker and true mechanic!
Yup, #Me2 06Accord, dissimilar metals. Crap design. Rubber is prob what Bruce Wayne used in the BatSuit...almost indestructible. I used a cutoff wheel and angle grinder. Worked great. Took 2 months of planning for my shade tree diy ass. Replaced bolts with new ones b/c why not? Copper anti-sirzed the pheck out of it.
Wouldn't it be nice if the factory applied anti-sneeze grease to all bolts that fit through a steel bushing? I wonder how many years it would last on a car that is driven daily. Nice job with the video Eric.
On ETCG1 you should talk to us about how you dont get scammed on eBay. Maybe some purchasing tips.
Eric, I'm from Michigan! I also enjoy learning from your videos!
Hello Michigan!
I got the same issue exept its on a stud that is a welded part of the frame. Gonna have to cut everything off
After walking to Ace three times for new sawzall blades a couple months back, I probably would have bought three blades the first time had I seen this video first.
Or one really good one.
@EricTheCarGuy I had issues with those sleeved bushings in the rear of my 94 integra. Just replaced the whole strut assembly and lower control arm from a junkyard to not bother with that crap.